I wish my wife could give even one fuck, but most importantly, I sertainly do! I love Emil's videos and perspective on climbing and creating amazing content for viewers😍
Here is more sample-size-of-one scientific evidence: I tried this for one month, every once in a while I did it only once a day. I tried a 45 degree spray wall yesterday, which I had never tried before. I could complete several moves which in itself is an amazing progress for me. But the most surprising thing was how absolutely painless it was. I have had a left climber elbow for years and my fingers and joints always hurt at least a little when climbing pretty much anything. Not this time. My arms and hands not only feel stronger but, dare I say, healthier? Amazing stuff, strongly recommended. Don't lose motivation at the beginning, the load is very low and I felt like it was a waste of time at first, but as weeks progressed I could feel my half crimps feeling, for lack of a better description "more solid".
Love this submax approach! Summary for anyone interested The protocol involves sub-maximal loading of the fingers using different grip positions. The protocol consists of six sets of a half crimp position and six sets of a three-finger drag position, along with variations of these grips. A door mount called "Fictitious" is mentioned as a convenient way to attach the hangboard to a door. (20% off with Emil's Link) The protocol can be done once or twice a day with a six-hour window between sessions, using approximately 40% of the maximum weight the person can hang.
Very viewer friendly content, couldn't have possibly made it easier for us. I'm 7 days in and already seeing results, around 40% increases overall on all the exercises. When I've become world cup winner I'll give you a shoutout (I climb v6 right now)
I just turned 60 and I have been climbing for 34 years, I had to take a break due to illness and I just started this, I am going to do it everyday, it’s so much easier than old school training and perfect for me, I feel hopeful for the first time in a while, thank you! ❤
Emil, I’ve watched this video a bunch of times since you posted. So helpful. I’ve been dealing with a tweaky ring finger issue for a couple of months. Have been doing this protocol twice a day for a week or two and the finger is finally starting to feel good again. Just did a full session yesterday with no tape. It’s very anecdotal, but, this protocol works really well for me. Thank you!
10 days in. Its insane… Never been able to hang one arm on middle lower rung on beastmaker 2000 and after these ten days three or four seconds after hard bouldering session. And i am not speaking about the fact that my fingers feels much more healthy during climbing. Give it a try for sure. Potentialy plateau breaking stuff my friends.
So unbelievably helpful, my middle finger has been killing me recently, and ever since i started doing this, the pain is slowly going away, can finally moonboard again
Doing these submax hangs roughly 10x/week is helping my climbing immensley. I sent my first solid v6 outside the other day. It was a problem I wasnt even sure I could pull on to, then a few goes later I was on top....so excited for outdoor season now onwards and upwards (incrementally and safely) 🚀
This is some crazy magic. My fingers were hurting for the last few months. I only had taped sessions for ages. Now I tried this routine for one week, and today was my first session without tape and much pain. If you don't want to do max hangs with weights, you don't even need a hangboard. I just load my fingers on a sturdy door frame in my apartment.
I've been looking for an excuse to pull the trigger on a hangboard that I can use in my house and this comes without needing a permanent mount. Look at what you made me do! Now I have a Monolith and doorway mount coming my way. :)
Emil Thankyou so much for the information and re igniting the frie within us to climb. Every video you make is like another piece of wood in the flame, fuling us with the warmth of inspiration. Thank you for all the time you spend on topnof all your traing to record and curuate, edit and upload( if you have help doing this A BIG THANKYOU TO THEM TOO and anyone who supports) Just so you know its not just you who is glad to have us watching but also equally us who are happy to have you to watch! Looking forward to following your sucess and cheering you on always!
If you don't have a hangboard you can do this by leaning back while crimping a solid doorframe haha. I held with one hand at a time to get enough weight, by crimping on the right for 10s, then left 10s, then 10s rest, and repeat, that way each hand gets 20 sec rest. Works well and it's super easy to do anytime. The only issue is keeping the load consistent, I did that by not moving my feet and trying to keep my shoulders square on, which is still easier than using a scale haha.
Been following this protocol for a few weeks now. It has made my open grip strength so much stronger and I'm far more confident in my tendons. I'm an older climber, 46, and tendon health is a huge concern as I don't bounce back from injury like I used to. This program is helping, my hands feel like vice grips now. Definitely going to continue the 10 minute every 6 hour routine.
Literally just learned how to half crimp again, I’ve never attempted this with just 2 fingers. I always either full crimp or open hand. Thank you for this information and helpful follow along! My fingers don’t hurt, this gave me a ton of confidence!
Get 20% Off Any Frictitious Climbing Hangboard with a Doorway Mount (No promo code, drill or setup needed) ➡frictitiousclimbing.com/products/new-hangboard-doorway-mount CLARIFICATION ABOUT LOADING: I've seen some comments about how much 40% of max is, here's an example how I calculate mine: I weigh around 80kg, and could add around 80-100kg if I do a max hang (~5 second hang) on a 20mm edge. Total weight: ~160kg. From this value I want to load my fingers by 40% of that. 40% of 160kg is 64kg, and so I want to subtract 64kg from my 80kg on the scale. E.g, on the half crimp the scale says somewhere around 15-25kg for me when I'm loading my fingers correctly. With the two-finger half crimp I'm the weakest, and can just barely hang from the ground as a max hang, there I unload 40-45kg instead. Hope this clears it up a bit! Thanks again to Frictitious for sponsoring the video, and thank you all for joining :-) See you at the next session! If you're interested in more on this subject I can recommend the previous two videos as well as Hoopers Beta's new video discussing this and other hangboard related topics.
I wish this would have come out a month ago 😢 I bought a frictitious door mount just over a month ago after seeing an ad on instagram. Would have loved to be able to support you.
Thank you for sharing! With that structure will be way easier to start follow finger training. And your sense of humour is hilarious 😂( especially in some videos) I like it
Started a few days with my hangboard routine. Had never done this before so I thought I start slow. Curently doing 3 hangs half crimp 10 seconds at full body weight. The method with a scale and just 40% of weight is actually really helpful. May do this instead of full body weight hangs.
It is also important to train *ring+pinky,* which is what I would use when *index+middle* are fatigued and I do not have a better resting position (no knee-bar, no jug...). Also, you are never using the *thumb.* Another way to execute the *connective tissue health* protocol is by hanging on mono-fingers (monos). You can do that *without resting* if you switch from left to right hand. For instance: Right thumb 10 seconds Left thumb 10 s Right Index 10 s Left index 10 s Right middle 10 s ... Of course, always 40% of your personal max load *on monos.* You can do that with 90° flexed elbow, even without using a hangboard. Just use a rope ring attached to a pull-up bar or tree branch.
Let me also explain something that is not clear in your video. If your max load *(MVC)* is 160 kg your body weight *(W)* is 80 kg and you want to reduce the load to 40% of MVC (i.e. 64 kg), you either need to lift *64 kg* or hang with feet on a scale measuring W - 64 = *16 kg* This is because your weight is W = 16 + 64 = *80 kg* Your feet are holding part of your weight (16 kg,) while your fingers are holding what's left (64 kg.) At 1:50 playback time you wrote "unload around 60 kg," which in my opinion is a misleading expression. I would rather write "load around 60 kg."
I just bought a hangboard and i think ill follow this protocol for a month before i start some serious stuff. Thanks for this useful info and a protocol thats easy to follow!
I was looking for something like this mount for a long time. My goblin brain wanted to believe that it came with the hangboard, but... as we all know... it does not Thank you for an amazing video and for the 20% off ! :)
Hey Emil, thanks for the info given in the video. The only question I have, that is not answered in this video or the previous 2 on the topic or the comments here: how do you, if at all, progress this routine? Say, I want to really stick to it over the next couple of months and stick to the 40% figure, when, if, do I increase my weight? Any suggestion? What about sticking to the same weights for about x weeks, then redo the max weight session to get new max weight figures from which you can calculate the new 40%? Would highly appreciate an answer to this :) I am really enjoying your content lately, especially the videos with Matilda, she has such a crazy body tension, awesome! You have mentioned to give a specific intention to something, e.g. a specific climb or maybe even the entire session. I would really enjoy some content on this. For example how to structure a session with a specific intention, e.g. "hard projection session" (how do you project the best? for example do you choose x boulders in the beginning that you want to project during the session and give each a 30 minute timeframe (including breaks)? or is it more do what you feel?) or "power endurance"? or any other type of training goal, how would you structure those sessions, maybe even with concrete examples. Thanks for making your awesome content and have a great day! Cheers
Hi mate. The aim of this isn't progressive overload, if you want that then I'd advise doing 1 or maybe 2 max hangs sessions per week in addition to this. This protocol is mainly for recruitment and finger health (which massively reduces your potential to get finger injuries.) It's purely supplemental to what you're already doing. That isn't to say that your figure for ~40 percent of your max won't change as your maximum strength increases.
hi man! thanks for the reply. I have already figured out a way for me. And your last sentence is exactly what I meant but am not doing as this is a protocol which I stricly see as a finger health protocol and as a protocol in the sense of grease the groove. movement = fluid = health at least IMO. On top of that I am also doing max hang sessions! cheers
I’m would love some chimes or something when starting and ending hangs. I’m left with watching the phone on my floor or counting myself : ) next one please add something! Thanks!
Great video Emil, I wanted to try this since the first time you posted about it, but didnt give it a go because I didnt put enough effort to digest those videos into a an actual plan, but this is very well made, completely idiot proof :) Thanks!
You do not know how badly I need that doorway mount! I ripped my hangboard off my wall 2 times and it's destroyed now lol. I live in a condo with thin metal studs you need special stuff for lol.
Recently, Hooper's Beta did an analysis video on this hangboard routine, speculating that there can't be that much benefit from this daily routine, and that you're better off training max hang. Have you seen the video? And what are your thoughts? Although I know you've personally seen huge benefits from this routine so it's hard to say that it doesn't do anything at all. Would love to know your thoughts.
I thought they made an excellent video on the topic! I know they mention pain science and placebo. Maybe they’re right, maybe they’re wrong, it’s very hard for an amateur like me to speak about. I will say though, since max hangs have existed for longer than we’ve even known how hypertrophy works, I’m not so convinced we have all the pieces to the puzzle that is finger training just yet. Climbing as a sport is too young for anybody to claim what is and isn’t in my opinion. That being said, without a good science based study to support this protocol I do think it’s valuable to listen to educated opinions/thoughts, as long as one is open to experimenting and trying things out!
@@jaloodali5645 yeah but you know, him claiming to understand the effect of this exercise after showing so much confusion and uncertainty, I don't know if I want to believe in his conclusions. I guess the best is that each of us can try this method and see what it does on ourselves
yet it moves! 'Galileo Galilei allegedly said. Whatever it be the reason or reasons to improve with this routine, for a 7a climber like I, the gain was huge. Mostly in stamina and capacity to keep bad holds along a long route. It was disrupting.
a question for Emil, but I see that in this video your shoulder blades seem not activated; just as if you were looking for activation especially for the fingers. rightly so? or would it be better to activate them? thanks for your sharing!!!
i did the 10/50 hangboard routine before my session as a warmup and my fingers felt really good (better?) during my session. Do you think this is okay or should I also keep at least a couple hours in between this and a climbing session? Love the content !!!
I have a question concerning a "DIY Hangboard". My appartement doesn't have any place to hang one either, and they are not in my budget atm, so I thought, what if I glue two strips of fine sanding paper on the upper ledge (slightly under one pad width) and just hang from there? I'd appreciate any thoughts on pros and cons from anyone who reads this. Great video as always!
That ought to work as a preliminary construction! I used the frame of my van for a while whilst living in it. Sometimes you have to work around things!
Emil great video, but for a follow along a buzzer sound in the end of each hang would be great, the way the video is you need to be checking the screen, which is not optimal
Thanks for the protocol routine! Btw you have these purple pants that you send in all the time. Can you tell me.. what brand are these? Love the content Emil! Looking forward for more!
Great stuff as always! Can you explain a bit why you changed the format of 10 hangs (10s on / 50s off) to twice the amount (10s on / 20s off)? You explained in an update on the last video that you might try it because the original paper said 10m of load I believe. How long have you been doing the 20x hangs for? And does if feel different than what you did previously?
Great question! I’ve been doing the 10/20s for the past year or so, but I’ve also switched back and forth to try things out. I notice that if I stop doing the protocol it feels like the benefits stick around a little bit longer if I’ve done 10/20 instead of 10/50 (no idea why, could just be in my head?). On top of that I haven’t noticed any downsides with the higher frequency, and based off of the Keith Baar study it just made a bit more sense to do it this way. However, the difference in finger health and strength is not particularly noteworthy to me.
@@EmilAbrahamsson Thanks for the reply! Cool stuff, amazing that you're experimenting and sharing that with us. It would make sense to increase the load time, but we're all healthily careful for our fingers of course, this is so helpful! Stoked to try it myself and follow along with you haha!
If your max is 160kg, and you are doing 40% of max (=64kg) when you weigh 80kg (since 160kg is 2x your bodyweight), you should unload only 16 kilos right, instead of 60? Maybe the text should say "...I unload TO around 60kg", that makes more sense
Actually I think 'unloading around 60kg' is correct. I.e unload 64 kg OFF the scales so 64 kg is on the fingers (40% of 160kg) and 16 kg left on the scales. 64 + 16 = 80kg BW. Not sure this is made totally clear on the vid.
Awesome video as usual! Is this a good routine to get back from a pulley injury? And is it possible (if your finger are haelthy) to do this routine but also train your finger max strength normally ?
From what I can tell, yes and yes. Physios very commonly recommend a similar approach to rehabbing finger injuries where you submaximally load monos. I would say this has worked better for me, both for recovery but also from a practical perspective. I do this in combination with strength training/climbing/max hangs. Try to keep the sessions apart a bit though, around 6 hours after/before training you can do this. Every finger injury/tweak I’ve had in the past 2 years Ive worked away using this protocol, so personally it’s great.
Hi Emil, I started this protocol a week ago twice a day and I feel great with it. 🤩 My fingers feel less strained between sessions and somehow I can trust my finger strength more. I want to ask what do you think about adding 2 sets separately for the little finger? And thank you very much for all your work on UA-cam, it's wonderful!!! 🥰
That's so great to hear! Cheers my friend. Originally I did some light stretching of my pinkies while resting during the last 2-3 reps. It definitely doesn't hurt to add, but I'm not entirely sure how much it will help either :P Try it and see!
Question: do you do this everyday, even on days where you climb at the gym and/or workout? I'm just wondering how to work this into my climbing and workout schedule. Thanks for posting this! I'm anxious to get started.
If finger strength is my current limiting factor, is there more I should implement or is this 2 times a day enough to build up the strength needed to stay on smaller holds? I watched the video about how this is still good for relatively newer climbers like myself but am still curious if this is enough to build my fingers. I’m definitely strong in the rest of my body, but with that comes the weight of muscles mass. So I’d love my fingers to become as strong and powerful as the rest of my muscles. I would usually just try it out and come to my own conclusion, but I need to wait for the doorframe hang board mount. The drywall was not great at holding me…
Hey Emil, love your stuff. Thanks to you I actually bought a hangboard and drilled it into my doorframe (landlord is gonna kill me lol). I was a little confused about your percentages. In the video ur de-loading about 40% of your max when hanging. It stated your max is around 160 kg. Wouldn’t that leave you with 100kg? I assume you weigh less than that so does that mean you’re adding weight? In the video you appear to be doing it body weighted so I was just a little confused about that. (Also.. 160 kg.. jezus man)
Heyo! Thanks mate, I guess I should clarify that a bit more: I weigh around 80kg, and could add around 80-100kg if I do a max hang (~5 second hang). Total weight: ~160kg. From this value I want to load my fingers by 40% of that. 40% of 160kg is 64kg, and so I want to subtract 64kg from my 80kg on the scale. E.g, on the half crimp the scale says somewhere around 15-25kg for me when I'm loading my fingers well. With the two-finger half crimp I'm the weakest, and can just barely hang from the ground as a max hang, there I unload 40-45kg instead. Hope this clears it up a bit!
Could you upload a Version where you add beeps so that you don't have to face towards your Phone while hanging. And without music so that one can listen to one's own music :)
One max hang to failure every 4/7 days with just general hand maintenance in-between. The high intensity but low volume proved very successful for me. May be worth testing! Best wishes my man! Stay strong! 💪
Since I got it sponsored I don’t want to speak like I know exactly how it works, but shoot Garret (the man behind the company) an email and ask if you have any questions! He’s a really nice and psyched guy, I’m sure he’ll be quick to help.
I'm gonna try it out! But how do you combine it with climbing? Do you keep 6h between climbing and this hangboard-protocol aswell? Seems impossible to do when doings these twice a day. Or maybe do this just once on climbing days?
Just realized how weak my individual fingers are, surprised by how much my middle finger works as opposed to my index. Also I get the tendon twist pain having fingers in drag/crimp and the others down, don't you guys get that pain? (The shared tendon twist thingy pain?)
Hi Emil great video ! i want to ask something, i cant do a hang with my bodyweight so in this context how i can this protcol ? thanks a lot from Argentina !
Well, if you can estimate what is the max percentage of your bodyweight that you can hang (by using a scale for example), then you can do 30-50% of that for the hangs.
Can someone please help me with the math on the 40%? If Emil is 175lb and his total max hang is 350lbs, then 40% of that is 140lbs. So if he is taking off 40% of his max hang what number shows on his scale?
Definitely! I’ve met loads of people who do that and love it. The original version of the protocol is intended to be done 6 hours before or after climbing, but there is no problem using this as a warmup routine also!
I have a couple questions still.. First, do you do any warm up? I know you mention the timing of 10 minutes in the other vids so didn’t know if I warm up if that technically goes towards the 10 minutes loading of fingers. Second question is since this is a finger health routine, would you think it’s suitable for rehabbing a finger injury or doing it while having a finger injury? Thanks for sharing! Also, I did this for 30 days earlier this year and my fingers felt pretty strong!
Nope, but I try to make sure my fingers aren’t too stiff or anything like that before I start. If they are I try to get my heart rate up just a bit and maybe slightly stretch at times
Hello! Question: if i can not Hang from a 14mm Edge, does it still make sense to use it for this Training or should i go for an edge from which i can hang? Thanks!
Hey mate. It still makes sense to use it for training, but just be careful so that you don’t load it too heavy. Pull to the point where you feel a light strain in the forearms and hold it there is what I would suggest
Just started this protocol last week and having Emil tell me every day that I'm amazing and he loves me is a pretty great way to start the day
ur gay?
@@UrsantaHoHoHo no but it's emil #nohomo
and even if he is gay, who cares?
Guys, apparently wanting to feel loved is gay. You heard it here first!
Babe wake up new hangboard video just dropped
Hahaha yeah maybe not the sexiest hangboard video of all time, but hopefully practical for some!
YAAAAASSSS!!!!
I wish my wife could give even one fuck, but most importantly, I sertainly do! I love Emil's videos and perspective on climbing and creating amazing content for viewers😍
Lol I literally just did this to my wife😅
I came for the hangboard training, but what I needed was Emil telling me “I love you” every morning
Here is more sample-size-of-one scientific evidence: I tried this for one month, every once in a while I did it only once a day. I tried a 45 degree spray wall yesterday, which I had never tried before. I could complete several moves which in itself is an amazing progress for me. But the most surprising thing was how absolutely painless it was. I have had a left climber elbow for years and my fingers and joints always hurt at least a little when climbing pretty much anything. Not this time. My arms and hands not only feel stronger but, dare I say, healthier? Amazing stuff, strongly recommended. Don't lose motivation at the beginning, the load is very low and I felt like it was a waste of time at first, but as weeks progressed I could feel my half crimps feeling, for lack of a better description "more solid".
Love this submax approach!
Summary for anyone interested
The protocol involves sub-maximal loading of the fingers using different grip positions.
The protocol consists of six sets of a half crimp position and six sets of a three-finger drag position, along with variations of these grips.
A door mount called "Fictitious" is mentioned as a convenient way to attach the hangboard to a door. (20% off with Emil's Link)
The protocol can be done once or twice a day with a six-hour window between sessions, using approximately 40% of the maximum weight the person can hang.
Legend
Very viewer friendly content, couldn't have possibly made it easier for us. I'm 7 days in and already seeing results, around 40% increases overall on all the exercises. When I've become world cup winner I'll give you a shoutout (I climb v6 right now)
I just turned 60 and I have been climbing for 34 years, I had to take a break due to illness and I just started this, I am going to do it everyday, it’s so much easier than old school training and perfect for me, I feel hopeful for the first time in a while, thank you! ❤
Emil, I’ve watched this video a bunch of times since you posted. So helpful. I’ve been dealing with a tweaky ring finger issue for a couple of months. Have been doing this protocol twice a day for a week or two and the finger is finally starting to feel good again. Just did a full session yesterday with no tape. It’s very anecdotal, but, this protocol works really well for me. Thank you!
10 days in. Its insane… Never been able to hang one arm on middle lower rung on beastmaker 2000 and after these ten days three or four seconds after hard bouldering session. And i am not speaking about the fact that my fingers feels much more healthy during climbing. Give it a try for sure. Potentialy plateau breaking stuff my friends.
Well it looks like I'll have to start tomorrow, you've made it so easy to follow! Great job Emil!
Thanks my friend! Hope the protocol treats you as well as it did me :-)
So unbelievably helpful, my middle finger has been killing me recently, and ever since i started doing this, the pain is slowly going away, can finally moonboard again
Doing these submax hangs roughly 10x/week is helping my climbing immensley. I sent my first solid v6 outside the other day. It was a problem I wasnt even sure I could pull on to, then a few goes later I was on top....so excited for outdoor season now
onwards and upwards (incrementally and safely)
🚀
This is some crazy magic. My fingers were hurting for the last few months. I only had taped sessions for ages. Now I tried this routine for one week, and today was my first session without tape and much pain.
If you don't want to do max hangs with weights, you don't even need a hangboard. I just load my fingers on a sturdy door frame in my apartment.
I've been looking for an excuse to pull the trigger on a hangboard that I can use in my house and this comes without needing a permanent mount. Look at what you made me do! Now I have a Monolith and doorway mount coming my way. :)
Wehoo! I hope you like it as much as I do :-) I'm definitely a big fan of the product, it's solved that issue very nicely to me
Emil Thankyou so much for the information and re igniting the frie within us to climb. Every video you make is like another piece of wood in the flame, fuling us with the warmth of inspiration. Thank you for all the time you spend on topnof all your traing to record and curuate, edit and upload( if you have help doing this A BIG THANKYOU TO THEM TOO and anyone who supports) Just so you know its not just you who is glad to have us watching but also equally us who are happy to have you to watch! Looking forward to following your sucess and cheering you on always!
If you don't have a hangboard you can do this by leaning back while crimping a solid doorframe haha. I held with one hand at a time to get enough weight, by crimping on the right for 10s, then left 10s, then 10s rest, and repeat, that way each hand gets 20 sec rest. Works well and it's super easy to do anytime. The only issue is keeping the load consistent, I did that by not moving my feet and trying to keep my shoulders square on, which is still easier than using a scale haha.
Been following this protocol for a few weeks now. It has made my open grip strength so much stronger and I'm far more confident in my tendons. I'm an older climber, 46, and tendon health is a huge concern as I don't bounce back from injury like I used to. This program is helping, my hands feel like vice grips now. Definitely going to continue the 10 minute every 6 hour routine.
have you kept up with the routine? What are your thoughts?
This is my favorite follow along video. I love you too, Emil
Literally just learned how to half crimp again, I’ve never attempted this with just 2 fingers. I always either full crimp or open hand. Thank you for this information and helpful follow along! My fingers don’t hurt, this gave me a ton of confidence!
No hangs helped me a lot! Thanks for making these videos.
Great to hear mate!
Get 20% Off Any Frictitious Climbing Hangboard with a Doorway Mount (No promo code, drill or setup needed)
➡frictitiousclimbing.com/products/new-hangboard-doorway-mount
CLARIFICATION ABOUT LOADING:
I've seen some comments about how much 40% of max is, here's an example how I calculate mine:
I weigh around 80kg, and could add around 80-100kg if I do a max hang (~5 second hang) on a 20mm edge. Total weight: ~160kg.
From this value I want to load my fingers by 40% of that. 40% of 160kg is 64kg, and so I want to subtract 64kg from my 80kg on the scale.
E.g, on the half crimp the scale says somewhere around 15-25kg for me when I'm loading my fingers correctly.
With the two-finger half crimp I'm the weakest, and can just barely hang from the ground as a max hang, there I unload 40-45kg instead.
Hope this clears it up a bit!
Thanks again to Frictitious for sponsoring the video, and thank you all for joining :-) See you at the next session!
If you're interested in more on this subject I can recommend the previous two videos as well as Hoopers Beta's new video discussing this and other hangboard related topics.
I wish this would have come out a month ago 😢 I bought a frictitious door mount just over a month ago after seeing an ad on instagram. Would have loved to be able to support you.
Do they ship to Sweden?
Thanks for sharing. My mid fingers been feeling tweaks lately so going to give this a try starting just once per day.
Helll yeahhh I’ve started to do this sort of hand boarding to help with tendons and whatnot but wanted something specific like this
Thank you for sharing! With that structure will be way easier to start follow finger training.
And your sense of humour is hilarious 😂( especially in some videos) I like it
This follow along video is great, thanks you Email for that
Amazing video Emil, thank you for that - PS: doing this routine on a door frame, since I don't have a hangboard :D
You save me 100 euros thanks
Started a few days with my hangboard routine. Had never done this before so I thought I start slow. Curently doing 3 hangs half crimp 10 seconds at full body weight.
The method with a scale and just 40% of weight is actually really helpful. May do this instead of full body weight hangs.
Dude Emil!! Jus followed along for the first time after a sesh at the gym, so psyched for healthy fingies!!
Frictitious about to make a LOT of money
It is also important to train *ring+pinky,* which is what I would use when *index+middle* are fatigued and I do not have a better resting position (no knee-bar, no jug...). Also, you are never using the *thumb.*
Another way to execute the *connective tissue health* protocol is by hanging on mono-fingers (monos). You can do that *without resting* if you switch from left to right hand. For instance:
Right thumb 10 seconds
Left thumb 10 s
Right Index 10 s
Left index 10 s
Right middle 10 s
...
Of course, always 40% of your personal max load *on monos.*
You can do that with 90° flexed elbow, even without using a hangboard. Just use a rope ring attached to a pull-up bar or tree branch.
Let me also explain something that is not clear in your video. If
your max load *(MVC)* is 160 kg
your body weight *(W)* is 80 kg
and you want to reduce the load to 40% of MVC (i.e. 64 kg), you either need to
lift *64 kg* or
hang with feet on a scale measuring W - 64 = *16 kg*
This is because your weight is
W = 16 + 64 = *80 kg*
Your feet are holding part of your weight (16 kg,) while your fingers are holding what's left (64 kg.)
At 1:50 playback time you wrote "unload around 60 kg," which in my opinion is a misleading expression. I would rather write "load around 60 kg."
I just bought a hangboard and i think ill follow this protocol for a month before i start some serious stuff. Thanks for this useful info and a protocol thats easy to follow!
I was looking for something like this mount for a long time. My goblin brain wanted to believe that it came with the hangboard, but... as we all know... it does not Thank you for an amazing video and for the 20% off ! :)
Thanks!
Oh wow, thanks a ton mate. I really appreciate this
Hey Emil, thanks for the info given in the video. The only question I have, that is not answered in this video or the previous 2 on the topic or the comments here: how do you, if at all, progress this routine? Say, I want to really stick to it over the next couple of months and stick to the 40% figure, when, if, do I increase my weight? Any suggestion? What about sticking to the same weights for about x weeks, then redo the max weight session to get new max weight figures from which you can calculate the new 40%? Would highly appreciate an answer to this :)
I am really enjoying your content lately, especially the videos with Matilda, she has such a crazy body tension, awesome! You have mentioned to give a specific intention to something, e.g. a specific climb or maybe even the entire session.
I would really enjoy some content on this. For example how to structure a session with a specific intention, e.g. "hard projection session" (how do you project the best? for example do you choose x boulders in the beginning that you want to project during the session and give each a 30 minute timeframe (including breaks)? or is it more do what you feel?) or "power endurance"? or any other type of training goal, how would you structure those sessions, maybe even with concrete examples.
Thanks for making your awesome content and have a great day!
Cheers
Hi mate. The aim of this isn't progressive overload, if you want that then I'd advise doing 1 or maybe 2 max hangs sessions per week in addition to this. This protocol is mainly for recruitment and finger health (which massively reduces your potential to get finger injuries.) It's purely supplemental to what you're already doing. That isn't to say that your figure for ~40 percent of your max won't change as your maximum strength increases.
hi man! thanks for the reply. I have already figured out a way for me. And your last sentence is exactly what I meant but am not doing as this is a protocol which I stricly see as a finger health protocol and as a protocol in the sense of grease the groove. movement = fluid = health at least IMO. On top of that I am also doing max hang sessions! cheers
I don't know why but emil avoiding eye contact with the camera is killing me 🤣🤣🤣
Perfect way to keep my fingers healthy while getting back into climbing after a shoulder injury.
I’m would love some chimes or something when starting and ending hangs. I’m left with watching the phone on my floor or counting myself : ) next one please add something! Thanks!
Thanks for this Emil. Going to start every morning with this routine from now on.
Cheers mate that's actually wonderful to hear
I haven’t climbed in about 4 years, I am gonna start doing this and then go to gym and do some climbing!
Great video Emil, I wanted to try this since the first time you posted about it, but didnt give it a go because I didnt put enough effort to digest those videos into a an actual plan, but this is very well made, completely idiot proof :) Thanks!
Haha cheers mate! Happy if I can help :-)
You do not know how badly I need that doorway mount! I ripped my hangboard off my wall 2 times and it's destroyed now lol. I live in a condo with thin metal studs you need special stuff for lol.
Haha been there my friend. Problem is now nicely solved!
I do this but slightly modified at least once every day! Thanks for the inspiration!
Recently, Hooper's Beta did an analysis video on this hangboard routine, speculating that there can't be that much benefit from this daily routine, and that you're better off training max hang. Have you seen the video? And what are your thoughts?
Although I know you've personally seen huge benefits from this routine so it's hard to say that it doesn't do anything at all. Would love to know your thoughts.
I thought they made an excellent video on the topic!
I know they mention pain science and placebo. Maybe they’re right, maybe they’re wrong, it’s very hard for an amateur like me to speak about. I will say though, since max hangs have existed for longer than we’ve even known how hypertrophy works, I’m not so convinced we have all the pieces to the puzzle that is finger training just yet. Climbing as a sport is too young for anybody to claim what is and isn’t in my opinion.
That being said, without a good science based study to support this protocol I do think it’s valuable to listen to educated opinions/thoughts, as long as one is open to experimenting and trying things out!
@@EmilAbrahamsson very fair answer!
Worth mentioning that hoopers beta concluded that this is a useful restorative routine, for those with time to implement it
@@jaloodali5645 yeah but you know, him claiming to understand the effect of this exercise after showing so much confusion and uncertainty, I don't know if I want to believe in his conclusions. I guess the best is that each of us can try this method and see what it does on ourselves
yet it moves! 'Galileo Galilei allegedly said. Whatever it be the reason or reasons to improve with this routine, for a 7a climber like I, the gain was huge. Mostly in stamina and capacity to keep bad holds along a long route. It was disrupting.
I started this today, I'm coming out of and finger pulley and already feels better 😂 maybe placebo but it works
a question for Emil, but I see that in this video your shoulder blades seem not activated; just as if you were looking for activation especially for the fingers. rightly so? or would it be better to activate them?
thanks for your sharing!!!
Cool video thks with nice chill music
Thanks Emil! :)
Very easy and nice to follow along. Thank you
thanks man that's a nice gift :)
Thank you, I think simple things like this is needed! :)
what is that app called?
It looks like Crimpd maybe?
Thank you so much for this!!
Thanks so much for this video Emil!!
It is possible to incorporate thumb into the protocol? Thumb is usually the part where i have trouble with
If you want to you can do each hold with thumbs engaged on something, e.g pinch something. I don't think that will affect the protocol much at all :-)
Update after 3 weeks: after engaging the thumb for these weeks, thumb pain is gone and feel more stable.
Thank you for the videos the program is aweosme
Love your videos❤!!!
Keep going !
Thanks homie, I really appreciate you taking the time to write that! ❤️
Thanks Emil !
What app are you using to track the program in this video? Great stuff!
i did the 10/50 hangboard routine before my session as a warmup and my fingers felt really good (better?) during my session. Do you think this is okay or should I also keep at least a couple hours in between this and a climbing session? Love the content !!!
hoopers beta talks about this exact thing:
ua-cam.com/video/jiVDDPJbqvc/v-deo.html (at timestamp 16:20)
@@Productionbrikfilm oh wow thanks a lot !
Like Hooper says, go for it! I would be very surprised if that could aggravate and increase the risk of injury
I have a question concerning a "DIY Hangboard". My appartement doesn't have any place to hang one either, and they are not in my budget atm, so I thought, what if I glue two strips of fine sanding paper on the upper ledge (slightly under one pad width) and just hang from there? I'd appreciate any thoughts on pros and cons from anyone who reads this. Great video as always!
That ought to work as a preliminary construction! I used the frame of my van for a while whilst living in it. Sometimes you have to work around things!
@@EmilAbrahamsson Exactly, and something is better than nothing!
Emil great video, but for a follow along a buzzer sound in the end of each hang would be great, the way the video is you need to be checking the screen, which is not optimal
I’ll definitely be using this!
I hurt my lumbarical while climbing pocket/overhang. After two days the pain was gone (I also did rehab by hoopers beta).
Love this!
hello are u engaging ur shoulders like a normal dead hang for the no hangs or r u just free hanging down on ur fingers? thanks
Thanks for the protocol routine! Btw you have these purple pants that you send in all the time. Can you tell me.. what brand are these? Love the content Emil! Looking forward for more!
I've got one pair of Houdini long pants that I use, had them for years and I assume you mean those! Can't remember the article name though
just out of curiosity: is there any reason you don't have a 4 finger open crimp in there. I feel like it's my most used grip (at least in lead)
Great stuff as always! Can you explain a bit why you changed the format of 10 hangs (10s on / 50s off) to twice the amount (10s on / 20s off)?
You explained in an update on the last video that you might try it because the original paper said 10m of load I believe. How long have you been doing the 20x hangs for? And does if feel different than what you did previously?
Great question! I’ve been doing the 10/20s for the past year or so, but I’ve also switched back and forth to try things out. I notice that if I stop doing the protocol it feels like the benefits stick around a little bit longer if I’ve done 10/20 instead of 10/50 (no idea why, could just be in my head?). On top of that I haven’t noticed any downsides with the higher frequency, and based off of the Keith Baar study it just made a bit more sense to do it this way. However, the difference in finger health and strength is not particularly noteworthy to me.
@@EmilAbrahamsson Thanks for the reply! Cool stuff, amazing that you're experimenting and sharing that with us. It would make sense to increase the load time, but we're all healthily careful for our fingers of course, this is so helpful! Stoked to try it myself and follow along with you haha!
If your max is 160kg, and you are doing 40% of max (=64kg) when you weigh 80kg (since 160kg is 2x your bodyweight), you should unload only 16 kilos right, instead of 60?
Maybe the text should say "...I unload TO around 60kg", that makes more sense
Yes I had the same thought 🤔
Actually I think 'unloading around 60kg' is correct. I.e unload 64 kg OFF the scales so 64 kg is on the fingers (40% of 160kg) and 16 kg left on the scales. 64 + 16 = 80kg BW. Not sure this is made totally clear on the vid.
Awesome video as usual! Is this a good routine to get back from a pulley injury? And is it possible (if your finger are haelthy) to do this routine but also train your finger max strength normally ?
From what I can tell, yes and yes. Physios very commonly recommend a similar approach to rehabbing finger injuries where you submaximally load monos. I would say this has worked better for me, both for recovery but also from a practical perspective.
I do this in combination with strength training/climbing/max hangs. Try to keep the sessions apart a bit though, around 6 hours after/before training you can do this.
Every finger injury/tweak I’ve had in the past 2 years Ive worked away using this protocol, so personally it’s great.
do you do any other kind of hangboard training in addition to this?
Hi Emil, I started this protocol a week ago twice a day and I feel great with it. 🤩
My fingers feel less strained between sessions and somehow I can trust my finger strength more.
I want to ask what do you think about adding 2 sets separately for the little finger?
And thank you very much for all your work on UA-cam, it's wonderful!!! 🥰
That's so great to hear! Cheers my friend.
Originally I did some light stretching of my pinkies while resting during the last 2-3 reps. It definitely doesn't hurt to add, but I'm not entirely sure how much it will help either :P Try it and see!
@@EmilAbrahamsson Thank you for response! : )
I think it is good idea, we will see the results. ; )
Is liquid chalk recomended for home used hangboards? (or normal or liquid chalk for commercial gym hangboards...)
Question: do you do this everyday, even on days where you climb at the gym and/or workout? I'm just wondering how to work this into my climbing and workout schedule.
Thanks for posting this! I'm anxious to get started.
If finger strength is my current limiting factor, is there more I should implement or is this 2 times a day enough to build up the strength needed to stay on smaller holds?
I watched the video about how this is still good for relatively newer climbers like myself but am still curious if this is enough to build my fingers. I’m definitely strong in the rest of my body, but with that comes the weight of muscles mass. So I’d love my fingers to become as strong and powerful as the rest of my muscles.
I would usually just try it out and come to my own conclusion, but I need to wait for the doorframe hang board mount. The drywall was not great at holding me…
This once a day + climbing is enough. Repetition is key. And if you do too much you risk injuring yourself
Why did you change the rest times from 50 sec to 20 sec?
Hi Emil.
Great video! Just wondering what size edges to use for all the various grips?
Hey Emil, love your stuff. Thanks to you I actually bought a hangboard and drilled it into my doorframe (landlord is gonna kill me lol). I was a little confused about your percentages. In the video ur de-loading about 40% of your max when hanging. It stated your max is around 160 kg. Wouldn’t that leave you with 100kg? I assume you weigh less than that so does that mean you’re adding weight? In the video you appear to be doing it body weighted so I was just a little confused about that. (Also.. 160 kg.. jezus man)
Heyo! Thanks mate,
I guess I should clarify that a bit more:
I weigh around 80kg, and could add around 80-100kg if I do a max hang (~5 second hang). Total weight: ~160kg.
From this value I want to load my fingers by 40% of that. 40% of 160kg is 64kg, and so I want to subtract 64kg from my 80kg on the scale.
E.g, on the half crimp the scale says somewhere around 15-25kg for me when I'm loading my fingers well.
With the two-finger half crimp I'm the weakest, and can just barely hang from the ground as a max hang, there I unload 40-45kg instead.
Hope this clears it up a bit!
@@EmilAbrahamsson clears it up perfectly! Thanks Emil, appreciate you for taking the time to reply. Cheers!
what app do u use as the timer ?
40% of max means you want the scale to be at 40% of your weight when hanging? Or how do you determine 40% of your max?
40% of what you can pull. If you weight 60 kg but you can pull 100 kg, you should train with 40 kg
Could you upload a Version where you add beeps so that you don't have to face towards your Phone while hanging. And without music so that one can listen to one's own music :)
Is this good for pulley strain recovery ?
Ever tried hangboarding one set to failure once per week?? Add load/time each session.. be interesting to see your take on that.
I haven't really tried that just once per week, but I've done plenty of max hang sessions over the years.
One max hang to failure every 4/7 days with just general hand maintenance in-between. The high intensity but low volume proved very successful for me. May be worth testing! Best wishes my man! Stay strong! 💪
the Doorway Mount looks amazing ! did someone have any experience with shipment from frictitious to Europe?
Since I got it sponsored I don’t want to speak like I know exactly how it works, but shoot Garret (the man behind the company) an email and ask if you have any questions! He’s a really nice and psyched guy, I’m sure he’ll be quick to help.
@@EmilAbrahamsson thanks a lot for the answer ! and super cool video as always :) the music is also very soothing :)
Last time I checked (months ago...),shipping costs were ridiculous, sadly 😭
Hi emil, can you tell me how can i properly mesure my max load? Thanks :)
Either you estimate what you think you can hang, or you see how much weight you can add/subtract to hang from each grip position :-)
I cant get the 20% discount, has the offer expired? Thanks for a great and important video!!
would you recommend doing this at the start/end/middle of a climbing session?
I'm gonna try it out! But how do you combine it with climbing? Do you keep 6h between climbing and this hangboard-protocol aswell? Seems impossible to do when doings these twice a day. Or maybe do this just once on climbing days?
Just realized how weak my individual fingers are, surprised by how much my middle finger works as opposed to my index. Also I get the tendon twist pain having fingers in drag/crimp and the others down, don't you guys get that pain? (The shared tendon twist thingy pain?)
Hi Emil great video ! i want to ask something, i cant do a hang with my bodyweight so in this context how i can this protcol ? thanks a lot from Argentina !
Well, if you can estimate what is the max percentage of your bodyweight that you can hang (by using a scale for example), then you can do 30-50% of that for the hangs.
What about the pinky finger? Doesn't it need work tomorrow up with the other fingers too?
I cant bodyweight hang on 20mm edge, Is it ok to add some weight for this protocol? will it help?😊
Can someone please help me with the math on the 40%?
If Emil is 175lb and his total max hang is 350lbs, then 40% of that is 140lbs. So if he is taking off 40% of his max hang what number shows on his scale?
35lbs on the scale, it is 40% of max effort
Would you recommend this protocol as a warm up before climbing or training on a board?? Thanks for intel Emil!
Definitely! I’ve met loads of people who do that and love it. The original version of the protocol is intended to be done 6 hours before or after climbing, but there is no problem using this as a warmup routine also!
I have a couple questions still..
First, do you do any warm up? I know you mention the timing of 10 minutes in the other vids so didn’t know if I warm up if that technically goes towards the 10 minutes loading of fingers.
Second question is since this is a finger health routine, would you think it’s suitable for rehabbing a finger injury or doing it while having a finger injury? Thanks for sharing!
Also, I did this for 30 days earlier this year and my fingers felt pretty strong!
In another response Emil said that he does not warmup… but if feeling particularly stiff might get the heart rate up first
Does it matter where you put your fingers on a hangboard? Like changing the distance between fingers?
If you mean the distance between hands then whatever feels good for your shoulder should be just fine.
Thank you bro!
Thanks for sharing. The max load is calculated with your feet on the scale?
you do some kind of fingers stretching before or after this routine (or maybe during the day)?
Nope, but I try to make sure my fingers aren’t too stiff or anything like that before I start. If they are I try to get my heart rate up just a bit and maybe slightly stretch at times
@@EmilAbrahamsson thank you! i'll try the routine, it seems interesting 🤟🏼
Hello! Question: if i can not Hang from a 14mm Edge, does it still make sense to use it for this Training or should i go for an edge from which i can hang? Thanks!
Hey mate. It still makes sense to use it for training, but just be careful so that you don’t load it too heavy. Pull to the point where you feel a light strain in the forearms and hold it there is what I would suggest