"Late 30 something V5 climber working 60 hours a week who thinks coffee is breakfast and a little pain in your fingers." I've never been so accurately described before.
4:15 "Are you a thirty something V5 climber with a rotator cuff injury a few years back, working 60 hours a week, thinking coffee equals breakfast, with a little pain in your fingers?" I didn't expect to be mentioned in this video. Thanks for the shout out, man!
@4:15, no, but I am 54 and overweight, with a bit of an obsessive streak. I’ve already started exploring hang boarding, but I learned in my 20s not to overtrain. Unfortunately, I took it to an extreme over the past couple decades and lost EVERYTHING by just not exercising. I am slowly getting it all back though…
I started utilizing the hang board, specifically the beastmaker 2000 to warm up in each sessions a few months ago. Takes around 25-30 minutes each time: 1.) Dead hang with two hands for 50 seconds to stretch the shoulders, then move to one arm dead hang alternating 5 seconds each for an additional minute or two. 2.) Mono (easy stretch, not a full body load) starting with an index fingers down to the pinky, repeat 3x15 seconds. This one has helped me quite a bit to make sure I’m warm. 3.) One arm/3 finger drag (3FD) on a pull up bar and rotate your body only using your lat and not your wrist (stretch the rotator cuff). Do 2 sets on each arm 4.) Get a weighted dumbbell and do a one arm deadhang for 5 seconds and an active (engage lat) deadhang for another 5 seconds. Do two sets on each arm. 5.)Pull ups to muscle up (4-5), or chest touching bar, 1 set. 6.) Back to the beastmaker 2000, use the far crimp edges to either 3FD/4FD into a front lever for 10 seconds (or L-sit for an easier version). 3 sets. 7.) Use a weighted dumbbell for a 2x1 rep max pull on the middle Beastmaker 2000 with one arm and switch, you should not be able to lift your body off the floor and your fingers should be fully warm by this point. Add more weight if you’re pulling yourself off the floor. 8.) Explosive pull-ups focusing engaging the lat (4-5), or one arm pull ups. 9.) Work on dead point or contact stretch on the campus board 4 reps alternating. After this you should be warm enough to start on a problem 2-3 grades below your project. I do a dynamic leg stretches prior to this 30 minute warmup. This routine has allowed me to stay injury free and even helping my finger health, while I’ve seen improvement go from plateauing V7-V8 to climbing V11-V12 on the kilter board over a few months. I’ve also reduced my climbing frequency from every other day or sometimes back to backs to exclusively climbing every 3 days since I have a newborn and have found that this is the optimal rest time for me. I’m in my 30s and I’m mostly focused on reducing the likelihood for injury and this routine has provided me a dependable warm up that I can easily measure against other sessions to see how much energy I have for the session. Do what works for you.
I like the format, making it clear what to inform yourself about your training plan before just jumping in. Most forms of training can be pretty dangerous without doing this and i'm always amazed at people going for the unstructured uneducated approach. I'm in the camp that the second question is properly answered (through practice) of correct recruitment on the hangboard. Since you remove other variables that play a major role in climbing, yet distract your attention away from your hands. Whereas on the hangboard hanging form with proper engagement is litterally all you are doing, i personally (and friends of mine as well) have experienced better proprioception of finger contact, forces and hand position during climbing after spending some time practicing in isolation. So much so that it's a vital part of my warmup before i go on any crimpy projects. - Honestly, that point should be expanded to being motivated by ego rather then training progress, you don't train to test your strength EVER. You train OR test, but even when testing going max-effort is dangerous. Let alone doing that 2-3 times a week, and this is not hangboarding specific.
Thanks! I think the "chronic/repetitive/overuse injury" aspect of certain training methods often get ignored when they don't present an immediate danger of acute injury. And I agree about the benefits of learning/cueing good engagement on a hangboard. I tend to be prone to overcompensation (and sometimes strains) in my upper traps unless I do a couple warm ups to engage my back and shoulders better, which often involves hangboarding.
I loved all the examples of wrong body positions, bad shoulder mechanics and flopping noodle core. Most of the 6C boulders I trained had at least one of those issues, nice accurate visualisation :)
I think hangboards are good for reguarly activating the Fingers on low loads to help recuperation, and like in my case where I cannot climb for 3-4months because of a knee injury, to not let my Finger strength as in the ligaments and muscles aswell as pulleys get used to not pulling anymore, which, when I get back to climbing can quickly lead to injury, as I still have the technique and mindest to try hard things which my hands are no longer acustomed to.
My main use of hangboarding personally is to spend a small amount of time getting a decent pump on bigger holds. It really does help keep my fingers feeling healthy when I am consistently climbing hard at the gym.
thank you, this is super helpful! my takeaway is: if you can't get to a climbing gym super often or don't have access to one, a hangboard can be a helpful tool to supplement. takeaway 2: TRAINING IS TRAINING. hangboard should be included as training time along with actual climbing. accounting for recovery, you might not want to waste training hours on hangboarding vs climbing. i'm new, haven't even been to a climbing gym yet, but i was thinking to do some training that would help me when i do start. (i don't wanna be so weak that going to the climbing gym is useless.) i think the board will be just fine to get some general strength going in my grip, and be careful to go slow so nothing is overtaxed. i know from yin yoga that tendons and ligaments take longer to stretch, strengthen, heal. and it seems like the board will be more useful then buying those holds and trying to make a small wall. i'm SO ready to go to the actual climbing gym but don't have the funds at the moment. hoping that changes in the next few months with a roommate. just gotta finish construction. -__-
Some great takeaways! Beginners can definitely benefit from hangboarding if you don't do too much of it too quickly. Though, you will likely see plenty of benefit/gains from simply climbing at the gym, so you might not even feel the need to hangboard at first. If you find hangboarding is making your fingers too tired to get in quality climbing sessions, then it's time to reassess. Of course, a lot of it depends on your athletic background and your ability to manage training load. But in general, as long as you ease into things and don't do anything drastic/silly, you'll do fine! Just make sure you don't end up doing more hangboarding than climbing if you have access to climbing. :) -Emile
I do my finger training on a tension block with plates attached to a hub on the bottom. I don't do max hangs but I do repeaters(7s on 3s off x6, switch hands and repeat then rest 3-5minutes and do that for total of 3 sets. I then do the same thing but with a pinch block for 2-3 sets). My current progression system is something like this. Let's say I do 40lbs on all 3 sets of the tension block. Next session/week I'll try 45lbs on set 1, but go back to 40 for 2 and 3. Next week 45lbs for set 1 and 2, but 40 for set 3. next week 45lbs for all 3 sets and repeat. If I'm not feeling strong or fingers feel tired I may go down a weight or not progress that week and stay on the same weight. I climb 3x a week(Mon,Wed and Fri/Sat) for approximately 2 hours and usually do this routine once a week at the end of my climbing session(usually 2hours of bouldering but on the session that I'm finger training I climb for 1h30 instead then do this routine which takes me 20-25minutes) Would this be a good routine as long as I'm adapting the weight to how I feel and not maxing out(shaking and dropping the weight or being at 9-10 rpe) and sticking to 7-8 rpe on all sets until it becomes easier then moving up slowly?
I bought a hangboard during the first lockdown because I almost couldn't do any climbing. It's better than nothing. However, when climbing regularly there's no way I can fit hangboarding anyway.
Wow, this really came at the perfect time. I was just asking a climbing coach friend of mine how to know when you should start hangboard training. Will definitely refer back to this and make sure I can answer those 6 questions :D thanks for all the great vids!
I could definitely use stronger fingers, but I could also use better route-reading, use of feet, core strength, etc. - all things that won't result in tearing my finger pulleys.
Hangboarding is just great when you don’t have time or opportunity for real climbing. If you are already climbing a lot the big question is how you can even fit hangboarding (safely) into your training schedule.
To be honest i only bought my hangboard to at least keep a little in shape during lockdowns. But its good to know what to watch out for as to not insure myself, thanks!
So, here's a question. If, say, a climber is *not yet* held back by finger strength, but should instead focus on general strength and shoulder stability. What does that look like? Lock off training? Chin ups? Prehab?
That’s a big question! It depends on what your goals are (general fitness? Better at bouldering? Better at sport climbing? What are you weaknesses? How long have you been climbing? Etc etc). Pull-up training, face pulls, rows, and overhead presses can be a good place to start. But also, just climbing a lot and learning good technique / muscle engagement is quite important as well.
Since I do regular soft hangboarding (not with full weight) my fingers get way less injured and I can crimp better/harder. If you are not using your hands often (office job), the mild finger conditioning between climbing sessions seems to have a huge effect rather quickly.
Just found your channel from your UA-cam shorts popping up on my recommended list. Loving everything so far, and was wondering if you could do a biomechanics on crack climbing video and possibly doing another video on how to train for it? Thank you for the awesome videos!
man.. i just went on the hangboard again just for a small strength assessment.. warmed up as always, went and tried to hang on a 3finger drag for 5 seconds, 4 seconds in my left ring-finger suddenly opened up and now i have a pain in my ring finger and my wrist about 10cm down..
Tie a resistance band to apply light to heavy loads. Do the same for your pull-ups. Do pull-ups. Grip strength is different from fist or pinching strength. As musicians already know each are trained differently on the same machine.
I just want better finger strength irrelevant if I'm climbing or not. It just feels like a weak spot in other type of training aswell, aside from when I'm climbing.
Fair! Grip strength can be harder to develop and take longer than other muscles. Be patient and focus some training to your grip and track what works best for you!
I feel attacked ^^ cofeve is breakfast… for myself I always did some hangboarding during my warmup since I started climbing ~2.5 years ago. I started with just doing 3x 7sec pulls on 20mm - progressed to hanging - now usually 7s hang on best beastmaker2k slipper+7sec lock-off on pull-up height+down and up to 7s lock-off at half pull-up height + down to normal 7s hang. Then 7s hang open hand, 3finger drag, half-crimp on 20mm and a 7s pinch (usually stepping on a ledge and pinching a rounded piece on the campus board while leaning back). Usually give myself 3-7s rest between hangs… maybe longer at the slopper routine as this are about 30s countinuesly… Started close to overweight - now slowly approaching solid V4(6b+)projecting V5(6c/6c+). Lucky enough never injured myself - now 40, still hope to get a V6 sometimes in the future.
Kind of ironic to recommend Dave's videos right after saying you've got to be judicious with recording :P Dave seems a big advocate of basing your training on reaching fatigue and trying really hard, rather than focusing on what particular training protocol you're using
Haha good point! Everyone will do things a little differently, but for people that are new to hangboarding it’s very beneficial to start with a structured protocol (tweaking it to fit your ability) and then start experimenting once you get the “hang” of things. The “right” level of fatigue is not always obvious to the uninitiated. Dave’s advice is great, he’s just coming at it from a more intuitive perspective which I think new hangboarders don’t always have (but can learn quickly). Still highly recommend his vids. -Emile
@@HoopersBeta Personally I like Dave's ideas a lot more as a beginner than the mega structured stuff that eg Lattice put out. I'm gonna find it hard at first to stick with a program of like 7/3 x6 x5 or whatever. Whereas, "find an edge that's comfortable but challenging and hang until failure once in a while" works well! Also it's all that I needed for big initial gains
Super informative video as always! What is the difference between hangboarding and farmer crimps? Aren't they very similar exercises? Can farmer crimps substitute the hangboard?
Great question! Both are very helpful and can certainly be used to build finger strength! Hangboards (overhead) can be a bit more specific for climbers and demand more from the shoulders, whereas farmer crimps can be more focused on the forearms/fingers and less intense on the shoulders.
Do you (or anyone) know of a hangboard app that you can easily log hanging sessions on? Not looking for a hangboard timer app, more like an exercise log book specifically for hangboard
I feel like fingerboarding is the advice intermediates give to beginners to advance however they themselves have not have progressed to an advanced/elite ability.
As an overall strong dude and a complete noob to climbing I noticed that the very first thing that gives out during my sessions are fingers/forearms I'd say it's the first thing to fix
As a climbing PT trying to push the limits of silliness within our profession, I fully support the hilarious skits. Awesome work as always. Off to buy a t-shirt!
i do dencity hangs explosive weigthed pullups on edges and max hangs i need to know more about drag and open hand stuf though bc im mainly strong in haf crimp
Personally I just use an excel spreadsheet. We have linked a free to use one in the past... docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xnCUIzEAIECWxFuj3kZmhK2mEsZTLrdmUxbGQBc-DHo/edit?usp=drivesdk
Thanks for the great content 😎 somewhat unrelated question: do you recommend different workout routines for lead climbing vs. bouldering? Most of your content seems centered around bouldering and I'm sure most of it applies for lead climbing as well, but are there important differences?
Any muscles that help with bouldering will help with lead climbing, but focusing a bit more on endurance for big walls wouldn’t be a bad idea, especially if it’s a limiting factor for how hard you can climb
@hoopersbeta Why can I pull up on hangbaords but not just hang? If I just hang, my hands do tend to open. But during pullups I feel great. My guess is the shoulder and back stability is better during the pullups
Could be simply the engagement of many more muscle is helping to stabilize things, like you said. Could also be more specific, like more engagement/extension in the wrist as you pull up, which can affect grip strength directly and what type of grip you use. You could be using a slightly different grip position during hangs vs pullups. Keep an eye on how you perform hangs (can you engage your shoulders / control your scapulae in a dead-hang position? what type of grip are you using when hanging vs pulling up? etc). -Emile
Hm, late 30 would be nice. I'm 46, have two Kids aged nearby 3 and 5. 40 hours work 6-14 or 13-21.15 . So yeah I have a hangboard, because i can only once a week going to climb ( Summer = Rock, Winter = Bouldering in the Gym ) Once a week Hangboard with Max Hangs. So not really time to work on the weaknesses... I had too, I know this... but ... Question at the Max Hangs... I'm hanging on a mixture of open Hands and Halfcrimp... My Indexfinger is shorter and Middlefinger and Ringfinger are in Halfcrimp... If i do complete Halfcrimp im much weaker... Normal? Better i should train in complete Halfcrimp? Im not really strong, i can do Maxhangs with about +17,5 kg. Sorry for my bad english, hope u understand what i mean. :-) I'm from Germany ( Rheinland-Pfalz ). Greets to you and thanks for ur Videos!!!
Much respect for still climbing and training with all that you have going on! That’s awesome! To answer your question, are you saying that when you do max hangs your index finger is not in a half crimp position because it’s shorter than your other fingers? If so, that’s a pretty common occurrence. The same thing happens to me on larger edges. I’ve never heard of it being a problem. If it doesn’t hurt you or cause any issues I wouldn’t worry about it. I find that when I move to smaller edges (8mm or less), my index finger does finally go into a half crimp position, so training those positions can of course be helpful if you’re going to be climbing on edges like that. But it sounds like you’re working on larger edges so it doesn’t really matter at this point! -Emile
@@HoopersBeta Thx for your answer. Yeah, i still do Maxhangs on the 20mm Edges with weight. But you are right, if i hang on smaller Edges, the Indexfinger goes into Half-Crimp Position. I doesn't hurt, if i do the Maxhangs like i explained before.
I feel like I can recommend anybody a no-hang 10min session 2x a day minimum 6h apart, 10 sec load/50sec rest as the potential to get injured is litteraly 0. No hangs is basically puting like 40-80% of your weight on the hold but not actually a 100 so that your feet are off the ground. Theres a video about it and the test pool is small but the guys based it on scientific evidences and studies on how tendon tissue responds to stimulai. As a result both got an increase up to 200% capabilities on some hangs. Check it out guys :)
47, climbing on and off since 26 (a late starter)... last 5-7 years, constant finger joint issues/pain if side pressure or if I try to make a fist, especially on the left hand.. tried all kinds of diets, exercises and didnt climb for 2 years during covid at all, nothing helped... I love climbing though and do have a problem with the idea of not doing it due to the finger pain... Anyone experiencing something similar but with a solution which helped him ?
Cost of wood, cost of cnc machine, cost of shipping a large piece of wood, cost of advertising, etc. Lots of factors beyond just the price of the wood :)
Honestly not a fan of the clickbait title, i almost didn't watch the video because of it. The video is still great tho. There isn't really anything in here i didn't know already, but it is a well structured and comprehensive checklist for anyone considering to start hangboarding. I personally truggle most with the first question, and it is an important one i rarely heard asked before. Maybe training my core on off-days would currently benefit me more than raw finger strength 🤔
I would try to avoid the phrase "you are not worthy" in all circumstances, even when just joking around. It's a poisonous phrase, even deadly in many occasions.
I'm not a climber, I bought a finger board to try and strengthen my fingers as well as other things for grip strength (wide grip dumbells, grip trainer etc.) I want my fingers to be strong so I could jam them through people like in kung fu movies (hypothetically of course). I tried hanging on it, and its not easy haha. I am super inconsistent (two young kids, long commute, long hours) but maybe one day I can build that strength. Thanks
Best of luck to you in your pursuits! (of improving finger strength for weight training that is ;)) Hopefully this video helped you understand some important aspects of hangboarding!
Hangboarding is not just about Fingerstrength! There are a lot of beginners there can really benefit by doing hangboard protocols. Stop doing videos about Training. It's just not fair to spread your superficial knowledge on social media platforms.
Unless you’re sending hard routes and/or boulders (say 12+ and up) I’d say most climbers don’t need to hang board and would be better off working on technique and strategy. The strength board’s build are very specific and until a climber really needs more finger strength it’s probably not necessary. That said I like this video a lot! As someone looking to embark on some board training I appreciate this cautious approach.
That's Bullshit! Nobody is the same. Ther are lots of people they are many people who have to do Max Hangs to be able to climb 12+. Stop it! Don't spread this shit in social Media!
Too bad frictitious straight up ripped every piece of their design from the tension hangboard. There's inspiration and then there's plagiarism lmao. Great video though
Agreed! What a weak and ugly copy of a truly awesome aesthetic board. I must admit that this partnership disappoints me as it contrasts the quality of the content, which is usually really high.
well, you have a lot of good info in here. but tone of the video is kinda condescending. Like it feels like you are saying : "" do you know if you really need to hangboard? you probably just suck at climbing, right ?"" That's not a good message .
Glad you enjoyed the info but sorry you felt it was condescending! That certainly was not the goal. Just wanting to help inform others out there so they can remain healthy and successfully train for their favorite sport :)
@@HoopersBeta yeah bro , i've been climbing since 96. The title of the video got my attention. i was hoping that you had some new training or a new process. Your points are all valid, i agree a new person will just get hurt. it was just the 1:30 at got me feeling like your video might insult a new person. But rock on bro Thanks :)
Ask a climber to list training needs, I would bet on finger strength being first. For most, this is nowhere near the lowest hanging fruit, and not likely to have the application on wall they would want. Great rehabilitation and warming and priming tool, sometimes the perfect exercise for a client, but this is not how to get better for many modern gym athletes.
![How to Hangboard with No Weights [Mixed Hangs Guide]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LpAxwEo7iXA/mqdefault.jpg)
![How to Hangboard with No Weights [Mixed Hangs Guide]](/img/tr.png)
It's not clickbait if it's true, right? ;)
V16 climbers hate him!
ONE SIMPLE TRICK to climb V16 xD
50 soft v10s in your area
Still clickbait
If you aren't tracking everything in excel you shouldn't be hangboarding.
"Late 30 something V5 climber working 60 hours a week who thinks coffee is breakfast and a little pain in your fingers." I've never been so accurately described before.
Only thing missing for me is being a father
I died at "thinking coffee = breakfast" 😂
Wait... it isn't?
🤣 I though he was going to say my name there
Yup, he basically described me perfectly, including the rotator cuff injury from a few years ago.
4:15 "Are you a thirty something V5 climber with a rotator cuff injury a few years back, working 60 hours a week, thinking coffee equals breakfast, with a little pain in your fingers?" I didn't expect to be mentioned in this video. Thanks for the shout out, man!
@4:15, no, but I am 54 and overweight, with a bit of an obsessive streak. I’ve already started exploring hang boarding, but I learned in my 20s not to overtrain. Unfortunately, I took it to an extreme over the past couple decades and lost EVERYTHING by just not exercising. I am slowly getting it all back though…
I started utilizing the hang board, specifically the beastmaker 2000 to warm up in each sessions a few months ago. Takes around 25-30 minutes each time: 1.) Dead hang with two hands for 50 seconds to stretch the shoulders, then move to one arm dead hang alternating 5 seconds each for an additional minute or two. 2.) Mono (easy stretch, not a full body load) starting with an index fingers down to the pinky, repeat 3x15 seconds. This one has helped me quite a bit to make sure I’m warm. 3.) One arm/3 finger drag (3FD) on a pull up bar and rotate your body only using your lat and not your wrist (stretch the rotator cuff). Do 2 sets on each arm 4.) Get a weighted dumbbell and do a one arm deadhang for 5 seconds and an active (engage lat) deadhang for another 5 seconds. Do two sets on each arm. 5.)Pull ups to muscle up (4-5), or chest touching bar, 1 set. 6.) Back to the beastmaker 2000, use the far crimp edges to either 3FD/4FD into a front lever for 10 seconds (or L-sit for an easier version). 3 sets. 7.) Use a weighted dumbbell for a 2x1 rep max pull on the middle Beastmaker 2000 with one arm and switch, you should not be able to lift your body off the floor and your fingers should be fully warm by this point. Add more weight if you’re pulling yourself off the floor. 8.) Explosive pull-ups focusing engaging the lat (4-5), or one arm pull ups. 9.) Work on dead point or contact stretch on the campus board 4 reps alternating.
After this you should be warm enough to start on a problem 2-3 grades below your project. I do a dynamic leg stretches prior to this 30 minute warmup. This routine has allowed me to stay injury free and even helping my finger health, while I’ve seen improvement go from plateauing V7-V8 to climbing V11-V12 on the kilter board over a few months. I’ve also reduced my climbing frequency from every other day or sometimes back to backs to exclusively climbing every 3 days since I have a newborn and have found that this is the optimal rest time for me. I’m in my 30s and I’m mostly focused on reducing the likelihood for injury and this routine has provided me a dependable warm up that I can easily measure against other sessions to see how much energy I have for the session. Do what works for you.
I like the format, making it clear what to inform yourself about your training plan before just jumping in. Most forms of training can be pretty dangerous without doing this and i'm always amazed at people going for the unstructured uneducated approach.
I'm in the camp that the second question is properly answered (through practice) of correct recruitment on the hangboard. Since you remove other variables that play a major role in climbing, yet distract your attention away from your hands. Whereas on the hangboard hanging form with proper engagement is litterally all you are doing, i personally (and friends of mine as well) have experienced better proprioception of finger contact, forces and hand position during climbing after spending some time practicing in isolation. So much so that it's a vital part of my warmup before i go on any crimpy projects. - Honestly, that point should be expanded to being motivated by ego rather then training progress, you don't train to test your strength EVER. You train OR test, but even when testing going max-effort is dangerous. Let alone doing that 2-3 times a week, and this is not hangboarding specific.
Thanks! I think the "chronic/repetitive/overuse injury" aspect of certain training methods often get ignored when they don't present an immediate danger of acute injury. And I agree about the benefits of learning/cueing good engagement on a hangboard. I tend to be prone to overcompensation (and sometimes strains) in my upper traps unless I do a couple warm ups to engage my back and shoulders better, which often involves hangboarding.
I loved all the examples of wrong body positions, bad shoulder mechanics and flopping noodle core. Most of the 6C boulders I trained had at least one of those issues, nice accurate visualisation :)
I think hangboards are good for reguarly activating the Fingers on low loads to help recuperation, and like in my case where I cannot climb for 3-4months because of a knee injury, to not let my Finger strength as in the ligaments and muscles aswell as pulleys get used to not pulling anymore, which, when I get back to climbing can quickly lead to injury, as I still have the technique and mindest to try hard things which my hands are no longer acustomed to.
Absolutely! Great point -- it always comes down to what your goals are and how you use the tool.
My main use of hangboarding personally is to spend a small amount of time getting a decent pump on bigger holds. It really does help keep my fingers feeling healthy when I am consistently climbing hard at the gym.
thank you, this is super helpful! my takeaway is: if you can't get to a climbing gym super often or don't have access to one, a hangboard can be a helpful tool to supplement. takeaway 2: TRAINING IS TRAINING. hangboard should be included as training time along with actual climbing. accounting for recovery, you might not want to waste training hours on hangboarding vs climbing.
i'm new, haven't even been to a climbing gym yet, but i was thinking to do some training that would help me when i do start. (i don't wanna be so weak that going to the climbing gym is useless.)
i think the board will be just fine to get some general strength going in my grip, and be careful to go slow so nothing is overtaxed. i know from yin yoga that tendons and ligaments take longer to stretch, strengthen, heal. and it seems like the board will be more useful then buying those holds and trying to make a small wall.
i'm SO ready to go to the actual climbing gym but don't have the funds at the moment. hoping that changes in the next few months with a roommate. just gotta finish construction. -__-
Some great takeaways! Beginners can definitely benefit from hangboarding if you don't do too much of it too quickly. Though, you will likely see plenty of benefit/gains from simply climbing at the gym, so you might not even feel the need to hangboard at first. If you find hangboarding is making your fingers too tired to get in quality climbing sessions, then it's time to reassess. Of course, a lot of it depends on your athletic background and your ability to manage training load. But in general, as long as you ease into things and don't do anything drastic/silly, you'll do fine! Just make sure you don't end up doing more hangboarding than climbing if you have access to climbing. :)
-Emile
I do my finger training on a tension block with plates attached to a hub on the bottom. I don't do max hangs but I do repeaters(7s on 3s off x6, switch hands and repeat then rest 3-5minutes and do that for total of 3 sets. I then do the same thing but with a pinch block for 2-3 sets). My current progression system is something like this. Let's say I do 40lbs on all 3 sets of the tension block. Next session/week I'll try 45lbs on set 1, but go back to 40 for 2 and 3. Next week 45lbs for set 1 and 2, but 40 for set 3. next week 45lbs for all 3 sets and repeat. If I'm not feeling strong or fingers feel tired I may go down a weight or not progress that week and stay on the same weight. I climb 3x a week(Mon,Wed and Fri/Sat) for approximately 2 hours and usually do this routine once a week at the end of my climbing session(usually 2hours of bouldering but on the session that I'm finger training I climb for 1h30 instead then do this routine which takes me 20-25minutes)
Would this be a good routine as long as I'm adapting the weight to how I feel and not maxing out(shaking and dropping the weight or being at 9-10 rpe) and sticking to 7-8 rpe on all sets until it becomes easier then moving up slowly?
I usually do very light hangboarding (not lifting my feet) with fingers in different positions as part of my warm-up 👌
2:19
Literally just say this and that's the entire video.
I bought a hangboard during the first lockdown because I almost couldn't do any climbing. It's better than nothing. However, when climbing regularly there's no way I can fit hangboarding anyway.
Good that you are recognizing your total work and not overdoing it!
Wow, this really came at the perfect time. I was just asking a climbing coach friend of mine how to know when you should start hangboard training. Will definitely refer back to this and make sure I can answer those 6 questions :D thanks for all the great vids!
Awesome! Glad it was helpful :)
4:45 i started laughing when he went from the hangboard to rolling himself up in the mat like a burrito
:) it was a very sad burrito.
Really helpful information here! Any climber can learn from this! Great B Roll too, keep at it Jason!
I could definitely use stronger fingers, but I could also use better route-reading, use of feet, core strength, etc. - all things that won't result in tearing my finger pulleys.
All great things to work on!
The fail b-roll in here is gold. Loads of good info in here though. Thanks dudes!
B-roll is always the fun part :)
Hangboarding is just great when you don’t have time or opportunity for real climbing. If you are already climbing a lot the big question is how you can even fit hangboarding (safely) into your training schedule.
It can certainly be done, but it takes some knowledge and care to do it successfully long term :)
To be honest i only bought my hangboard to at least keep a little in shape during lockdowns.
But its good to know what to watch out for as to not insure myself, thanks!
Our pleasure! Yeah I'm sure hangboard sales significantly increased when the lockdown started!
Knew all this because i focus too much on watching hangboarding videos than actual hangboarding.
😂
So, here's a question. If, say, a climber is *not yet* held back by finger strength, but should instead focus on general strength and shoulder stability. What does that look like? Lock off training? Chin ups? Prehab?
That’s a big question! It depends on what your goals are (general fitness? Better at bouldering? Better at sport climbing? What are you weaknesses? How long have you been climbing? Etc etc). Pull-up training, face pulls, rows, and overhead presses can be a good place to start. But also, just climbing a lot and learning good technique / muscle engagement is quite important as well.
One of the best channels I've come across - so much great, sound guidance.
Great advice. Especially checking out lattice and Dave Mac. Those guys know what they’re talking about
Since I do regular soft hangboarding (not with full weight) my fingers get way less injured and I can crimp better/harder. If you are not using your hands often (office job), the mild finger conditioning between climbing sessions seems to have a huge effect rather quickly.
Just found your channel from your UA-cam shorts popping up on my recommended list. Loving everything so far, and was wondering if you could do a biomechanics on crack climbing video and possibly doing another video on how to train for it? Thank you for the awesome videos!
Welcome to the channel! The Wide Boyz UA-cam channel may be a better resource for crack climbing as that is their focus :)
Thanks for always bring knowledge with a humor
That's the goal :) Thank you for the support!
I just do a light hangboard “workout” as a warmup. 3 on, 3 off, for a few sets at comfortable down to difficult (but never painful). 👌
man.. i just went on the hangboard again just for a small strength assessment.. warmed up as always, went and tried to hang on a 3finger drag for 5 seconds, 4 seconds in my left ring-finger suddenly opened up and now i have a pain in my ring finger and my wrist about 10cm down..
Thanks for this! Appreciate the perspective from a PT!
4:44 😂😂😂😂 MOOD
😅
Tie a resistance band to apply light to heavy loads. Do the same for your pull-ups. Do pull-ups. Grip strength is different from fist or pinching strength. As musicians already know each are trained differently on the same machine.
Is it best to hangboard before or after climbing?
It depends, but typically before
I just want better finger strength irrelevant if I'm climbing or not. It just feels like a weak spot in other type of training aswell, aside from when I'm climbing.
Fair! Grip strength can be harder to develop and take longer than other muscles. Be patient and focus some training to your grip and track what works best for you!
@@HoopersBeta
I feel attacked ^^ cofeve is breakfast… for myself I always did some hangboarding during my warmup since I started climbing ~2.5 years ago. I started with just doing 3x 7sec pulls on 20mm - progressed to hanging - now usually 7s hang on best beastmaker2k slipper+7sec lock-off on pull-up height+down and up to 7s lock-off at half pull-up height + down to normal 7s hang. Then 7s hang open hand, 3finger drag, half-crimp on 20mm and a 7s pinch (usually stepping on a ledge and pinching a rounded piece on the campus board while leaning back). Usually give myself 3-7s rest between hangs… maybe longer at the slopper routine as this are about 30s countinuesly… Started close to overweight - now slowly approaching solid V4(6b+)projecting V5(6c/6c+). Lucky enough never injured myself - now 40, still hope to get a V6 sometimes in the future.
Haha, I love your background humor!!
Kind of ironic to recommend Dave's videos right after saying you've got to be judicious with recording :P Dave seems a big advocate of basing your training on reaching fatigue and trying really hard, rather than focusing on what particular training protocol you're using
Haha good point! Everyone will do things a little differently, but for people that are new to hangboarding it’s very beneficial to start with a structured protocol (tweaking it to fit your ability) and then start experimenting once you get the “hang” of things. The “right” level of fatigue is not always obvious to the uninitiated. Dave’s advice is great, he’s just coming at it from a more intuitive perspective which I think new hangboarders don’t always have (but can learn quickly). Still highly recommend his vids.
-Emile
@@HoopersBeta Personally I like Dave's ideas a lot more as a beginner than the mega structured stuff that eg Lattice put out. I'm gonna find it hard at first to stick with a program of like 7/3 x6 x5 or whatever. Whereas, "find an edge that's comfortable but challenging and hang until failure once in a while" works well! Also it's all that I needed for big initial gains
This video is excellent, I haven't climbed on years, but still found it useful, helpful and engaging
Glad to hear it! :)
Lmao, that description of the team kid was spot on and hilarious
Great video guys, would you do a video on lower back pain/injury anytime soon?
Still on our idea list :) We have just had too many ideas recently! Sorry :/ It will get done though!
Super informative video as always! What is the difference between hangboarding and farmer crimps? Aren't they very similar exercises? Can farmer crimps substitute the hangboard?
Great question! Both are very helpful and can certainly be used to build finger strength! Hangboards (overhead) can be a bit more specific for climbers and demand more from the shoulders, whereas farmer crimps can be more focused on the forearms/fingers and less intense on the shoulders.
Do you (or anyone) know of a hangboard app that you can easily log hanging sessions on?
Not looking for a hangboard timer app, more like an exercise log book specifically for hangboard
I don't but I would be very curious if anyone else knows of one! That would be helpful
Try Crimpd app
@@matuspetra131 thanks, doesn’t really have the functionality I want, all this apps are doing the most..
I just want a place I can create my customized exercise, 5 progressive 15mm 10sec weighted hangs.
Date X
1. 15m - 10sec - 5lb
2. 15m - 10sec - 10lb
3. 15m - 10sec - 15lb
4. 15m - 10sec - 17.5lb
5. 15m - 10sec - 20lb
Date X+2
1. 15m - 10sec - 5lb
2. 15m - 10sec - 10lb
3. 15m - 10sec - 20lb
4. 15m - 10sec - 22.5lb
5. 15m - 10sec - 22.5lb
I feel like fingerboarding is the advice intermediates give to beginners to advance however they themselves have not have progressed to an advanced/elite ability.
As an overall strong dude and a complete noob to climbing I noticed that the very first thing that gives out during my sessions are fingers/forearms I'd say it's the first thing to fix
It might be that you have bad technique so you just power through everything.
As a climbing PT trying to push the limits of silliness within our profession, I fully support the hilarious skits. Awesome work as always.
Off to buy a t-shirt!
Haha you're awesome!! Thank you for the support! 🙏
i do dencity hangs explosive weigthed pullups on edges and max hangs i need to know more about drag and open hand stuf though bc im mainly strong in haf crimp
Is it better to do max hangs 2x a week than to do no hangs twice everyday like emil?
6:30 where links
We’ve made our own videos about finger training since posting this one. Check out our “block pulls” or “mixed hangs” guide :)
@@HoopersBeta ngl I was not expecting a reply fifteen minutes later on a year-old post! I am happily surprised!
😂 That footwork on 01:15 is just golden 😂
Do you have any apps you would recommend for logging climbs/hangboard?
Personally I just use an excel spreadsheet. We have linked a free to use one in the past...
docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xnCUIzEAIECWxFuj3kZmhK2mEsZTLrdmUxbGQBc-DHo/edit?usp=drivesdk
Thanks for the great content 😎 somewhat unrelated question: do you recommend different workout routines for lead climbing vs. bouldering? Most of your content seems centered around bouldering and I'm sure most of it applies for lead climbing as well, but are there important differences?
Any muscles that help with bouldering will help with lead climbing, but focusing a bit more on endurance for big walls wouldn’t be a bad idea, especially if it’s a limiting factor for how hard you can climb
@0:53 Thats a sponsorship, they are paying you money to rep their product.
@hoopersbeta Why can I pull up on hangbaords but not just hang? If I just hang, my hands do tend to open. But during pullups I feel great. My guess is the shoulder and back stability is better during the pullups
Could be simply the engagement of many more muscle is helping to stabilize things, like you said. Could also be more specific, like more engagement/extension in the wrist as you pull up, which can affect grip strength directly and what type of grip you use. You could be using a slightly different grip position during hangs vs pullups. Keep an eye on how you perform hangs (can you engage your shoulders / control your scapulae in a dead-hang position? what type of grip are you using when hanging vs pulling up? etc).
-Emile
@@HoopersBeta okay thanks! Makes a lot of sense I'll record and watch back
Is there an option to have injury without pain? Just feeling kind of stiffness in joints
Surely. That stiffness could be the precursor indicating that the mechanics are changing and an injury *could* follow but it doesn't guarantee one.
Hm, late 30 would be nice. I'm 46, have two Kids aged nearby 3 and 5. 40 hours work 6-14 or 13-21.15 . So yeah I have a hangboard, because i can only once a week going to climb ( Summer = Rock, Winter = Bouldering in the Gym ) Once a week Hangboard with Max Hangs.
So not really time to work on the weaknesses... I had too, I know this... but ...
Question at the Max Hangs... I'm hanging on a mixture of open Hands and Halfcrimp... My Indexfinger is shorter and Middlefinger and Ringfinger are in Halfcrimp... If i do complete Halfcrimp im much weaker... Normal? Better i should train in complete Halfcrimp? Im not really strong, i can do Maxhangs with about +17,5 kg.
Sorry for my bad english, hope u understand what i mean. :-) I'm from Germany ( Rheinland-Pfalz ).
Greets to you and thanks for ur Videos!!!
Much respect for still climbing and training with all that you have going on! That’s awesome! To answer your question, are you saying that when you do max hangs your index finger is not in a half crimp position because it’s shorter than your other fingers? If so, that’s a pretty common occurrence. The same thing happens to me on larger edges. I’ve never heard of it being a problem. If it doesn’t hurt you or cause any issues I wouldn’t worry about it. I find that when I move to smaller edges (8mm or less), my index finger does finally go into a half crimp position, so training those positions can of course be helpful if you’re going to be climbing on edges like that. But it sounds like you’re working on larger edges so it doesn’t really matter at this point!
-Emile
@@HoopersBeta Thx for your answer. Yeah, i still do Maxhangs on the 20mm Edges with weight. But you are right, if i hang on smaller Edges, the Indexfinger goes into Half-Crimp Position. I doesn't hurt, if i do the Maxhangs like i explained before.
the perfect hangboard video doesnt exiss...
I feel like I can recommend anybody a no-hang 10min session 2x a day minimum 6h apart, 10 sec load/50sec rest as the potential to get injured is litteraly 0. No hangs is basically puting like 40-80% of your weight on the hold but not actually a 100 so that your feet are off the ground. Theres a video about it and the test pool is small but the guys based it on scientific evidences and studies on how tendon tissue responds to stimulai. As a result both got an increase up to 200% capabilities on some hangs. Check it out guys :)
We’ve done two videos about that. The latest one is called “should climber hangboard 2x/day”
47, climbing on and off since 26 (a late starter)... last 5-7 years, constant finger joint issues/pain if side pressure or if I try to make a fist, especially on the left hand.. tried all kinds of diets, exercises and didnt climb for 2 years during covid at all, nothing helped... I love climbing though and do have a problem with the idea of not doing it due to the finger pain... Anyone experiencing something similar but with a solution which helped him ?
Maybe try shark cartilage supplements?
I broke my rotator cuff 2 times to be clear ,... Nah damn this is so accurate like a slap in the Ego.
Dang! Well I hope this information helps you!
It helped a lot , it verifies what i was thinking going to happen if i go over my pensum
Check on al 6! ;) thanks also to lattice :D
Jason saying dangleboard made me think “dinkleberg”
Haha 😂 yessss
4:15, I could not feel any more personally assaulted by your comments. 39yo Dad climber here. Don't tell me what to do.
😭 so sorry for the assault!! 😅
Jesus he just describe me 100% on that 30 something year old description .. 🤷♂️ except no injury yet lol
wish I saw this a few days ago :( popped my pulley on the hangboard like an idiot.
Sorry to hear that! Wishing you a strong (and patient) recovery.
nothing in the description other than ads..
What were you looking for?
@@HoopersBeta in the video you mention linking hangboard routines
such a good intro
I miss being in my early 20s where I could climb all day multiple days in a row. Late 20s suck
Yeah definitely not the same but what's important is you recognize what works best for you now :)
Wait till you’re 50 like me. Old age sucks but its better than the alternative!
No trigger warning for your example old climber being late 30s?
Really dropped the ball on that one 😅
People like this are why warning labels exist.
The guy at the beginning looks like Alex merged with Linus
Why are hangboards so expensive? It's just a piece of CNC machined wood.
Cost of wood, cost of cnc machine, cost of shipping a large piece of wood, cost of advertising, etc. Lots of factors beyond just the price of the wood :)
i tore my finger
One of the darkest moments of my life was feeling seen with the ‘30 something’ character in section 4 😩
Oh no! :( don’t be put out by that, it describes most of us! All the more reason to seek good training education and train hard 💪😁
Great vid. This should be the Oxford definition for an Adult climber.
Hah thank you! 🙏
That's great - but just send it
Aha! He said a rule of thumb!
Read Ned Feehally….. Beastmaking! This is all a soul needs!
Frictitious Climbing: "Can I copy your homework?" Tension climbing: "Yeah just change it up a bit so it doesn't look obvious you copied"
What's your opinion on Emil's hangboard training routine seen here?
ua-cam.com/video/sBTI9qiH4UE/v-deo.html
@Darcy Oh shit thanks for pointing that out!
Stop tell me I'm special -.-
...just because I have six fingers, I'm not different 😭😭😭
Sounds like aid to me! :P
me a 25 year old watching this with a rotator cuff injury :)
Lol I’m one of those pesky teenage kids lol 😂
Honestly not a fan of the clickbait title, i almost didn't watch the video because of it.
The video is still great tho. There isn't really anything in here i didn't know already, but it is a well structured and comprehensive checklist for anyone considering to start hangboarding.
I personally truggle most with the first question, and it is an important one i rarely heard asked before. Maybe training my core on off-days would currently benefit me more than raw finger strength 🤔
Depends on what you mean by "core" :P
I would try to avoid the phrase "you are not worthy" in all circumstances, even when just joking around. It's a poisonous phrase, even deadly in many occasions.
lifes hard get a helmet , stop letting words eat you alive its unsightly
@@ReverseKadz It's a very one-dimensional world to live in when you assume others can include only their own feelings in a conversation.
@@saureeeegogo sticks and stones may break my bones but words will never hurt me , stop acting like a child
@@ReverseKadz Since you already started a conversation with yourself, I'll let you continue in peace. Have a good one.
"Not sponsored but we get commission on sales". ...Bro next time you wanna use the word "but", just don't say the stuff before it.
Sponsorship ≠ affiliate link
Yeah yeah, I stand by my comment. Good to be ultra clear about bias.
I'm not a climber, I bought a finger board to try and strengthen my fingers as well as other things for grip strength (wide grip dumbells, grip trainer etc.) I want my fingers to be strong so I could jam them through people like in kung fu movies (hypothetically of course). I tried hanging on it, and its not easy haha. I am super inconsistent (two young kids, long commute, long hours) but maybe one day I can build that strength. Thanks
Best of luck to you in your pursuits! (of improving finger strength for weight training that is ;)) Hopefully this video helped you understand some important aspects of hangboarding!
I tuned in and after 1 minute ,gone…… no wood working on this UA-cam
Next
Hangboarding is not just about Fingerstrength! There are a lot of beginners there can really benefit by doing hangboard protocols. Stop doing videos about Training. It's just not fair to spread your superficial knowledge on social media platforms.
Unless you’re sending hard routes and/or boulders (say 12+ and up) I’d say most climbers don’t need to hang board and would be better off working on technique and strategy. The strength board’s build are very specific and until a climber really needs more finger strength it’s probably not necessary. That said I like this video a lot! As someone looking to embark on some board training I appreciate this cautious approach.
That's Bullshit! Nobody is the same. Ther are lots of people they are many people who have to do Max Hangs to be able to climb 12+. Stop it! Don't spread this shit in social Media!
Too bad frictitious straight up ripped every piece of their design from the tension hangboard. There's inspiration and then there's plagiarism lmao. Great video though
There are only so many ways to pack 6 edge sizes and a center hold onto a hangboard, got to imagine there are plenty others that look similar too.
We call that "marketing"
Agreed! What a weak and ugly copy of a truly awesome aesthetic board. I must admit that this partnership disappoints me as it contrasts the quality of the content, which is usually really high.
well, you have a lot of good info in here. but tone of the video is kinda condescending. Like it feels like you are saying : "" do you know if you really need to hangboard? you probably just suck at climbing, right ?"" That's not a good message .
Glad you enjoyed the info but sorry you felt it was condescending! That certainly was not the goal. Just wanting to help inform others out there so they can remain healthy and successfully train for their favorite sport :)
Climbers aren’t little babies either. And need to here it as it is. Having strong fingers and shit technique isn’t gonna get you far
@@HoopersBeta yeah bro , i've been climbing since 96. The title of the video got my attention. i was hoping that you had some new training or a new process. Your points are all valid, i agree a new person will just get hurt. it was just the 1:30 at got me feeling like your video might insult a new person. But rock on bro Thanks :)
@@santi_super_stunts2573 oh we got a keyboard warrior here ^^
Ask a climber to list training needs, I would bet on finger strength being first. For most, this is nowhere near the lowest hanging fruit, and not likely to have the application on wall they would want. Great rehabilitation and warming and priming tool, sometimes the perfect exercise for a client, but this is not how to get better for many modern gym athletes.
besides, you're hardly engaging your shoulders in the video. I should know, im a white man too, but im older than you. the white man rule applies.
Clickbait.
Gotta play the game unfortunately
@@HoopersBeta Ok.
I use handboard desk like a pull up bar. To increase my strength.