One piece of wisdom I have heard from a climbing coach is: people overestimate how much they can improve in a month and underestimate how much they can improve in a year. Just imagine what you can achieve if you do at least part of the training for a prolonged period of time!
True. Although her progress is absolutely outside of the normal in such a short period. That plays exactly into people overestimating what is realistic in a month.
@@m.wunderlich4942 You have a point, although Hannah is brand new to regular training, and her body has had 10 years to build up strong connective tissues. So, I don't think her progress is that outside the norm for someone fitting her profile, it's just that few climbers have that depth of experience and then suddenly start training. Of course, you can only get that level of progress once in your career. Then, it's all about consistency over the months and years to come.
@@m.wunderlich4942 that's the progress from going from no training to training at an unsustainable level. A sustainable training routine needs to be less demanding, so you don't end up injured or simply too fatigued and, after the initial quick progress, it' hard to notice any progress in the short term.
Then you didn't train like a pro then did you. Appropriate recovery, rest and recruitment are the most important parts of training like 'pro'. Stretching, decompression and heat will reduce tendonitis. It usually flares up on rest days when you haven't stretched after the previous session.
@@ashhodson2063Thanks coach! It was largely a joke, however tendinitis I do struggle with - not at all on rest days though, climbing 2 days a week not 3 seems to help a lot.
I am no coach, but i do climb at The Foundry a lot where the community is next to none. 8c boulderers, 9b+ sport climbers are a plenty so the knowledge us punters are able to tap into is priceless there. Good luck with the Tendonitis. Look up some Thai boxing rehab it may help @@OliverBatchelor
Love how this video captures the experience and challenges of balancing training with life. It's one topic that is all too often glossed over in most training media, but the reality is this is the hardest part of any program. You did an amazing job of showcasing this and I'm happy we had the opportunity to sponsor this video ❤
This 💯... I have massive respect for the dedication of pros, but I get far more inspired on a personal level by meeting those humble shadow-crushers, who work 50 hours a week and bring up a family and still find the time, energy and dedication to be athletes.
Jesus, how many different clips did you include in this video. Must have been a hussle to edit. But it absolutely pays off in terms of a fast-paced, yet understandable and immersing training diary. Kudos on the progression :)
wow!! Even your confidence + focus compared between 1st testing session and final results is massively different! I love seeing you add in the reality of how the training fits into your life. and especially that you were still saying “yes” to things that normally excite you about climbing (trips, collabs), which work to reinforce your motivation! The way you structured the challenge for yourself + your life makes the discipline feel like a supportive bolster rather than an intimidating challenge. thank you Hannah, all of your videos are so inspiring, beautifully made and informative ❤
Wow doubling pullups in such a short time that's amazing! Thanks for documenting and sharing! I always learn a lot from your videos! Rooting for you and your progression!
Hi Hannah! One of my biggest struggles is that my full-time career is NOT climbing related. It's very difficult to be consistently on the wall, or even consistently training at home. Even if I do train consistently, my recovery time swings wildly due to work stress. Would be a cool video concept if you could explore ways to consistently improve climbing when life gets in the way.
Funny you should say that, we’ve been thinking of filming a video about how to maximise the time you have for climbing best. The idea being to target those climbers that have a few hours to train a week and have to train around busy & inconsistent schedules ☺️☺️
@@hannahmorrisbouldering Single Dad here who squeezes in an hour after work here and there on the way back to pick up from After School clubs - definitely interested in ways to optimise my time! And it may be, as I've come to realise, that perhaps I can't train. I climb because I enjoy it, so if restructuring my climbing sessions to improve actually results in me enjoying them less, then I'll probably just have to accept I'm not going to get much better!
@@hannahmorrisbouldering This would be great. the eternal struggle of having enough time. You should reach out to Dave Mcleod and get his thoughts or collab with some other big names that have tried balancing family, professional pursuits, and climbing. Thanks for your videos! Your cinematography is always so crisp and you cover great stuff!
In my eyes hobby climbers are way too serious of being efficent. Instead of being stressed about a liitle amount of time, just enjoy it the most. My suggestion would be to make a video showing which ways to have the most fun in a session 🎊
I love how much tryhard energy this video has and I mean that in only an extremely positive way. Very strong efforts and insane results to show for it. 💪
SOlid gains and appreciated the summary that it's much more holistic than just the sessions. I think we spend wayy to much time looking at what pro climbers train now vs looking at what pro climbers did to progress when they were at our level - much more applicable!
For sure. There’s also a ton of factors I didn’t dig into that I would have loved to and I think are pretty crucial for understanding improvement - sleep & nutrition were aspects I would have loved to learn a bit more about during the challenge, but there’s only so much I could bite off. Maybe topics for discussion in another training video in the future. 😀
Shoutout to whoever chose the music at your gym, Smashing Pumpkins deep cut at 6:30 haha... great video, seeing realistic training and progress is inspiring vs some climbing channels that only highlight the extremes
Loved this video! Been wanting to add more off the wall training to my routine to help me get over a plateau, so if anyone knows of any similar protocols for v3 climbers lmk!
I started a strict training plan my second week of climbing and now have been climbing for 8 months and still follow one, it seems crazy to imagine life without it
Today is my first day of a planning to improve discipline in my life with gaining strength and mobility for a better climbing even if I'm not a V5 climber yet. Thanks for the video Hannah, it will help to keep motivation!
Great tip on mixing the things you're strong with along with the weaknesses to keep the motivation (and confidence) high! I've been feeling like I've plateaued in my climbing lately and had been considering some training but didn't really know where to start, so finding your video here today was exactly what I needed. Thanks for sharing!
What was THE exercise that have you higher pay off? I don't know where to invest first: increase finger strength, hanging, locking (if you could choose only one... Then I'll do number 2 etc)
i just curious that you have improved on the test, but how about your climbing? As in like harder grades or able to do routes that previous you can't do and now you can?
If you squeeze your lower body and put your legs together, point toes, you may find it helps with pull up numbers. Keeping your lower body tight helped me. Just an idea of course. Great video!
Excellent to see the commitment to some training and progress you made. I would say the program design was excessive and conflicting, and the testing is strange being the duration pull is a poor indicator of climbing "endurance", the test for finger strength seemed different from the actual intervention, and several tests did not seem to be a focus of the sessions. I do not have my athletes test but acclimatize to a program for a variety of reasons, not the least of which is the numbers of the tests do not change the program itself. If I am concerned with strength of a vertical pull, say a lat pulldown, then an athlete familiar with this could begin working at an intensity appropriate for four reps with one in reserve, and any increase in weight, repetitions, sets, or even velocity would indicative improvement. Simply thoughts because you clearly have an interest to keep progressing and have outgrown and deserve better than premade climbing plans. You're definitely able to make some intentional sessions yourself and take inspiration from an exercise suggestion.
Cool video, I would be interested in seeing you do more challenges like this, certainly, BUT ALSO, there's one metric that you didn't have in this video, which perhaps should be there... can you climb something that you couldn't climb before? I guess it's hard to really measure that of course, but I'd be interested in your subjective opinion, say if you try a climb that's beyond your limit before and after one of these challenges. Of course, you're climbing all the time, so maybe you did that and just didn't mention it in the video?
Yes! I’ve been feeling the strongest I ever have recently: projecting harder things but also projecting anti style and ticking projects indoors that would haven’t have been in my comfort zone before. I don’t think I’ve gotten that much better at climbing per se, but seeing gains has improved my confidence to try harder stuff, and I’ve been seeing a difference for sure.
@2:13 so many climbers in the UK are bit weird, just take this point less advice - be intentional.. really? I think her intent is clear, and you were told, that is why she asked for some advice. Also you could have the best intent and be dedicated but if your training is wrong you will not benefit from it, The advice the young lady gave was excellent. It shows that you should not listen to everyone. Wish you the best. Stay injury free - don't over do it.
You said in the video that you had both a trip to Font and there was a week or two that had a lot of climbing time for work. I'm curious if that is significantly more than you were climbing and how much you think just being on the wall/rock more contributed to your gains.
Interesting to see your right arm is so much stronger then the left, do you notice that in climbing? I try to even them too but my left is also skinnier
I do love a good 40 day challenge, they are very fun to watch ! This one seemed especially relevant to my life, as I've been trying to be more consistent in going to the gym 3times a week, and finding it not super easy to arrange everything and free up that time (+ time for rest, adequate nutrition etc..). I've definitely noticed that in addition to physical strength you've improved a lot on the mental aspect of climbing (trying hard, trying on boulders that aren't your style etc...). I'm sure that that + the physical training will bring a lot of progress :)
I also find it super hard to fit everything in and feel like I’m spinning so many different plates. For this challenge I definitely neglected nutrition and sleep as really important factors, alongside the increase in training load. For sure one of the biggest differences I’ve seen in my climbing these last few weeks is mindset. Seeing metrics go up on strength tests, though they don’t directly mean better climbing skill, has been a big confidence boost which has had a positive snowball effect!
Really interesting video Hannah. How tall are you, out of interest, I'm 4ft 10 for reference. Do you think you could keep up training on top of bouldering? And how well do you think the programs would translate for sport climbing?
I’m 5’5. I definitely want to keep training in some way, as well as climbing as usual. I’d be interested to try focussing some training time on sport climbing particularly. I’ve not really paid much attention to it as a discipline but there’s deffo some programmes in the app that would be useful for sport 😀
Small hint, Lock Off after 3 days on is actually easier as you've burnt some body weight by training hard. I weigh 67kg after two days of rest and recovery. After my third day on i could potentially be 64/5kg. That's 2-3kg lighter, therefor locking off is literally easier.
This video really inspired me! I would really like to structure my own training more, and I think the crimp app is just an amazing tool when you haven't grown up with climbing and therefore don't have that many ideas about how to train other than just climb stuff. Great content, as always ❤️
Honestly my biggest problem is my body can't seem to handle climbing even 1 day off 1 day on without slowly degrading performance. This is after well over a year of climbing 3x per week.
Cool video, and good results/progress you made! I want to do something like this for me to get stronger. I have been climbing consistently for over 6 months and have not done any sort of climbing specific training. Would you recommend it? Any tips in general and where one should start?
Hello, can you build muscle mass by climbing??? I know it's not as much as lifting weights at the gym, but is it possible to do a small amount? enough to make a girl's arms look more aesthetic??? I'm very thin and I would like to have thicker arms but I don't like going to the gym to lift weights, I prefer to do sports.Thank you!
Congratulations on your progress. But I wish you would have put up a disclaimer: This rate of progress is exceptional and not the normal..it usually takes much longer, many months, to see this kind of progress.
Thanks! This is my genuine progress over 6 weeks (with my climbing history factored in). I think with a similar climbing history and a clear focus, others could achieve similar results. Not to say I wasn’t super happy with my progress, but I’m a pretty regular-strength climber. ☺️
Hi Hannah, I am inclined to disagree, but that's fine. Typical gains in finger strength over a year is around 8% on average. And your decade of climbing experience also argues against quick and fast "beginner" gains. Maybe something to discuss in a future video. Nevertheless, nothing to take away from your progress.
I think a huge factor here is something she mentioned at the start (that would be worth restating later on): that she was sick at the start of this and didn't climb much for 4 weeks. This is a big confounding factor in this "n-of-1" experiment, can't separate the gains from training with the gains from getting healthy and back to it!
@@m.wunderlich4942 training history is not duration in the sport but familiarity with the training/testing stimulus. Being she has not followed such a structured plan for finger training previously, much of the difference can be accounted for with a testing effect and some neurological adaptations in positioning cues. Plus, as mentioned, she was ill, and simply getting back to activity after a few weeks off will see a rapid rise. Further, at this stage of climbing training research, we do not currently have a good understanding of measures of finger strength. Anyone having a typical percentage of gain is interpreting a single metric devoid of context, and would be curious where this 8% comes from.
As someone who feels that she has gotten three times stronger in the past 3 months than in the previous 12 months combined, I think that seriously focusing on training and diet can make a huge difference. I think one of the major factors for me was just taking 20g of protein supplements per day on top of my normal diet to round out my protein figures to about 1.8g per 1kg of body weight, and it seems to have made a huge difference.
Do they both fit you fine? You should try to go to a store to try different sizes, and compare the fit of them. Rotate your ankle and try to find any air spots or pressure points, check to see if the heel will slip off if you try to heel hook too. If they both feel good, the vapor v is stiffer and better for smaller foot holds and is potentially more durable. The veloce are softer so will be better for smearing on larger holds and volumes, will probably be better for indoor climbing. The veloce were my second shoe, they were durable and fairly comfortable. I then moved to the dragos and tend to prefer the softness in the gym, but they wear down quicker so i need to get them resoled often. Figure out if you want a soft or stiff shoe, then try on different models to determine which fits the best within your budget. If you're fairly new to climbing, like less than 2 years, then try a stiffer shoe first as your foot technique will be worse and the stiffer rubber will last longer.
Whoa thanks for the solid advice! Screenshotted this for reference, haven't tried them on yet but I've narrowed it down to Scarpa (best choice where i'm from availability wise)@@TheTonVeron
@@jonstnrthese are quite different shoes, with the Veloce being an indoor centric climbing shoe with a great amount of dexterity in the toes, tons of flexibility, little support, and an exceedingly sticky rubber (which can be problematic on sharp rock and which Scarpa warns of) whereas the Vapor series tends to be a more all around shoe, but the models vary in amount of support and structure (the S is probably the most likely to perform for about anything including longer days in the shoe, the Lace offers the most support, while the V tends to perform well on about anything). Be mindful, the Veloce will stretch about a size and a half but if overly tight many of the benefits of an agile shoe are lost, while the Vapor V has enough toe support and structure to only stretch about half a size but perform well as a snug to tight fit. Scarpa in particular have an impressive array of nuanced shoes, with a great focus on what the shoe is intended for in terms of foot hold types. Important to remember, though, most shoes are able to handle most climbing, when they get more specialized or able to handle another aspect of climbing some other parts become worse as there are trade offs. For the Veloce, this agility and sensitivity and stickiness means the shoe does little for small and sharp edges and benefits from things you want to get a lot of rubber around (as with volumes/macros indoors) or significant angle changes to wrap the toes around (again, the 3d climbing rather popular in commercial settings).
It's sweet and thoughtful that you included pounds for Americans. But they really need to get onboard with metric 😂 even though it's painful for the ego. I've found a massive difference with getting a structured programme is it completely removes the cognitive "what do I do today" load. Plus having a plan for 6-12 weeks means you start thinking longer term and plan in deload weeks. One thing ive noticed on the odd occasions that "pros" have been in my gym, is they're often suprisingly "weak" except really theyre just in phases of their climbing cycle where they're not trying to perform- they're just completing the work on time and at the right target intensity. The problem is what most of them post on IG is their performance days/peaking period which totally skews people's impressions.
@@hannahmorrisbouldering 'Intermediate'... :)? And that would be an understatement. You're probably in the top few % of people at bouldering gyms! Especially now that it has become a more mainstream sport. Arguably climbing is your profession at this point (I'm assuming you're running this channel full-time, given the quality and quantity of content!), even if you're not competing professionally. If this channel is the result of part time work... that's super impressive. 'Enthusiast climber' might be a good term, taking from photography lingo. Though 'intermediate' would probably describe your skill level better, at least if we compare to grades rather than average capability of climbers.
Yes! Grades can be so subjective but I climbed my first V6 on the steep overhang at my local gym last week, and I’ve been putting together a 7C sport board which I would NEVER have tried, let alone linked sequences on - generally I think it’s because I’m feeling stronger that I apply a bit more confident on boulders, and I have a better, clearer focus for goals I have, for sure!
Novice climber - lead 7a, boulder 6c+. 😂 You're definitely an intermediate climber Hannah! I think you just spend too much time around incredibly strong climbers.
One piece of wisdom I have heard from a climbing coach is: people overestimate how much they can improve in a month and underestimate how much they can improve in a year. Just imagine what you can achieve if you do at least part of the training for a prolonged period of time!
True. Although her progress is absolutely outside of the normal in such a short period. That plays exactly into people overestimating what is realistic in a month.
@@m.wunderlich4942 You have a point, although Hannah is brand new to regular training, and her body has had 10 years to build up strong connective tissues. So, I don't think her progress is that outside the norm for someone fitting her profile, it's just that few climbers have that depth of experience and then suddenly start training. Of course, you can only get that level of progress once in your career. Then, it's all about consistency over the months and years to come.
@@m.wunderlich4942 that's the progress from going from no training to training at an unsustainable level. A sustainable training routine needs to be less demanding, so you don't end up injured or simply too fatigued and, after the initial quick progress, it' hard to notice any progress in the short term.
@@m.wunderlich4942 Her progress is totally realistic.
I trained like a professional climber for 2 days and got tendinitis
Lol
Then you didn't train like a pro then did you. Appropriate recovery, rest and recruitment are the most important parts of training like 'pro'. Stretching, decompression and heat will reduce tendonitis. It usually flares up on rest days when you haven't stretched after the previous session.
@@ashhodson2063Thanks coach! It was largely a joke, however tendinitis I do struggle with - not at all on rest days though, climbing 2 days a week not 3 seems to help a lot.
I am no coach, but i do climb at The Foundry a lot where the community is next to none. 8c boulderers, 9b+ sport climbers are a plenty so the knowledge us punters are able to tap into is priceless there. Good luck with the Tendonitis. Look up some Thai boxing rehab it may help @@OliverBatchelor
@@OliverBatcheloryou can gain a lot by low load training on off days. that is good for your tendons
Love how this video captures the experience and challenges of balancing training with life. It's one topic that is all too often glossed over in most training media, but the reality is this is the hardest part of any program. You did an amazing job of showcasing this and I'm happy we had the opportunity to sponsor this video ❤
This 💯... I have massive respect for the dedication of pros, but I get far more inspired on a personal level by meeting those humble shadow-crushers, who work 50 hours a week and bring up a family and still find the time, energy and dedication to be athletes.
I always think a pro is not paid to do what they do, but to rest from doing what they do.
- Andy Kirkpatrick
Jesus, how many different clips did you include in this video. Must have been a hussle to edit. But it absolutely pays off in terms of a fast-paced, yet understandable and immersing training diary. Kudos on the progression :)
Hahaha I need a few days off from editing for sure! It was a bit of a marathon edit. Glad you liked it though ☺️
Did Jesus make this video?
“Committing to commitment” really hit me hard 😂😂😂
Keep hustling - I can feel the V9 is coming! 💚
wow!! Even your confidence + focus compared between 1st testing session and final results is massively different! I love seeing you add in the reality of how the training fits into your life. and especially that you were still saying “yes” to things that normally excite you about climbing (trips, collabs), which work to reinforce your motivation! The way you structured the challenge for yourself + your life makes the discipline feel like a supportive bolster rather than an intimidating challenge. thank you Hannah, all of your videos are so inspiring, beautifully made and informative ❤
this!
Wow doubling pullups in such a short time that's amazing! Thanks for documenting and sharing! I always learn a lot from your videos! Rooting for you and your progression!
Hi Hannah! One of my biggest struggles is that my full-time career is NOT climbing related. It's very difficult to be consistently on the wall, or even consistently training at home. Even if I do train consistently, my recovery time swings wildly due to work stress. Would be a cool video concept if you could explore ways to consistently improve climbing when life gets in the way.
Funny you should say that, we’ve been thinking of filming a video about how to maximise the time you have for climbing best. The idea being to target those climbers that have a few hours to train a week and have to train around busy & inconsistent schedules ☺️☺️
@@hannahmorrisbouldering Good timing! I'm looking forward to it. 🙂
@@hannahmorrisbouldering Single Dad here who squeezes in an hour after work here and there on the way back to pick up from After School clubs - definitely interested in ways to optimise my time!
And it may be, as I've come to realise, that perhaps I can't train. I climb because I enjoy it, so if restructuring my climbing sessions to improve actually results in me enjoying them less, then I'll probably just have to accept I'm not going to get much better!
@@hannahmorrisbouldering This would be great. the eternal struggle of having enough time. You should reach out to Dave Mcleod and get his thoughts or collab with some other big names that have tried balancing family, professional pursuits, and climbing. Thanks for your videos! Your cinematography is always so crisp and you cover great stuff!
In my eyes hobby climbers are way too serious of being efficent. Instead of being stressed about a liitle amount of time, just enjoy it the most. My suggestion would be to make a video showing which ways to have the most fun in a session 🎊
I love how much tryhard energy this video has and I mean that in only an extremely positive way. Very strong efforts and insane results to show for it. 💪
I appreciate that! Glad you enjoyed it 😀
Awesome video yet again! Always bring Sir Catalyst back on whenever you can. I miss the combo already
Hopefully more this year ☺️
A novice climber with a decade of experience under her belt, sure 🤣 Great video again, Hannah, and looking forward to some Fontainebleau videos :)
6 pull-ups! Go Hannah!!! Loved the video! You guys are AWESOME!
Hannah! These videos are so well done and you're absolutely crushing! Super inspiring.
Thank you so much! I've been enjoying your climbing adventures too! :)
@@hannahmorrisbouldering can't wait for non-snowy weather so we can get back on some climbs 😍 Wishing you all the best!
SOlid gains and appreciated the summary that it's much more holistic than just the sessions. I think we spend wayy to much time looking at what pro climbers train now vs looking at what pro climbers did to progress when they were at our level - much more applicable!
For sure. There’s also a ton of factors I didn’t dig into that I would have loved to and I think are pretty crucial for understanding improvement - sleep & nutrition were aspects I would have loved to learn a bit more about during the challenge, but there’s only so much I could bite off. Maybe topics for discussion in another training video in the future. 😀
Great video Hannah! very inspiring and well done for going through the training program!
Thank you! It was a fun challenge, and I was psyched to see some improvement. Thanks for watching!
Shoutout to whoever chose the music at your gym, Smashing Pumpkins deep cut at 6:30 haha... great video, seeing realistic training and progress is inspiring vs some climbing channels that only highlight the extremes
Glad you enjoyed a realistic approach to training! Thanks for commenting
Loving the quality of the content! Super inspiring, keep it up
Thanks! 😅
very inspring Hannah!! you make me want to go climb!
Hannah, you are not a novice
Loved this video! Been wanting to add more off the wall training to my routine to help me get over a plateau, so if anyone knows of any similar protocols for v3 climbers lmk!
Keep it going!!!! In 40 days, let’s see the 80 day update!!!!!!!!!
@hannahmorrisbouldering we need an update!
I started a strict training plan my second week of climbing and now have been climbing for 8 months and still follow one, it seems crazy to imagine life without it
Today is my first day of a planning to improve discipline in my life with gaining strength and mobility for a better climbing even if I'm not a V5 climber yet. Thanks for the video Hannah, it will help to keep motivation!
Great tip on mixing the things you're strong with along with the weaknesses to keep the motivation (and confidence) high! I've been feeling like I've plateaued in my climbing lately and had been considering some training but didn't really know where to start, so finding your video here today was exactly what I needed. Thanks for sharing!
How is your color grading so nice!?!
Thank you! I always spend way too long tying to get it to look nice, so I’m psyched you think it does ☺️
What was THE exercise that have you higher pay off?
I don't know where to invest first: increase finger strength, hanging, locking (if you could choose only one... Then I'll do number 2 etc)
2, 1, and 3.
i just curious that you have improved on the test, but how about your climbing? As in like harder grades or able to do routes that previous you can't do and now you can?
If you squeeze your lower body and put your legs together, point toes, you may find it helps with pull up numbers. Keeping your lower body tight helped me. Just an idea of course. Great video!
Excellent to see the commitment to some training and progress you made. I would say the program design was excessive and conflicting, and the testing is strange being the duration pull is a poor indicator of climbing "endurance", the test for finger strength seemed different from the actual intervention, and several tests did not seem to be a focus of the sessions. I do not have my athletes test but acclimatize to a program for a variety of reasons, not the least of which is the numbers of the tests do not change the program itself. If I am concerned with strength of a vertical pull, say a lat pulldown, then an athlete familiar with this could begin working at an intensity appropriate for four reps with one in reserve, and any increase in weight, repetitions, sets, or even velocity would indicative improvement.
Simply thoughts because you clearly have an interest to keep progressing and have outgrown and deserve better than premade climbing plans. You're definitely able to make some intentional sessions yourself and take inspiration from an exercise suggestion.
Cool video, I would be interested in seeing you do more challenges like this, certainly, BUT ALSO, there's one metric that you didn't have in this video, which perhaps should be there... can you climb something that you couldn't climb before? I guess it's hard to really measure that of course, but I'd be interested in your subjective opinion, say if you try a climb that's beyond your limit before and after one of these challenges. Of course, you're climbing all the time, so maybe you did that and just didn't mention it in the video?
10:00 the whole neverending pursuit!! Even when we find a fit we change as well it's a gorgeous process
Nice to see you cimbing in Bleau! Greetings from France
Awesome, how did this translate the boulders? Did you feel stronger?
Yes! I’ve been feeling the strongest I ever have recently: projecting harder things but also projecting anti style and ticking projects indoors that would haven’t have been in my comfort zone before. I don’t think I’ve gotten that much better at climbing per se, but seeing gains has improved my confidence to try harder stuff, and I’ve been seeing a difference for sure.
What was the wooden edge you used for the pulling test?
20mm edge on the Climbro Board ☺️
Súper, Súper interésante para todos los que queremos impulsar nuestro nivel de escalada. Muchas Gracias!!
I'm a couple of weeks into my climbing and your videos have been a huge help!
That’s really great to hear. Hope you’re loving climbing so far 😀
very cool! I will be in a position to train more regularly very soon and looking forward to that :D
This is a great video. Very inspiring.
Thanks! 🤩
Hey, did you consider the effect of your menstrual cycle on your retest? It might bias your results on a physical level.
It's cool to look back at videos like this and see how your confidence and strength has improved, Hannah!💪🏼💜🤙🏼
Thank you! :D
@2:13 so many climbers in the UK are bit weird, just take this point less advice - be intentional.. really? I think her intent is clear, and you were told, that is why she asked for some advice. Also you could have the best intent and be dedicated but if your training is wrong you will not benefit from it, The advice the young lady gave was excellent. It shows that you should not listen to everyone. Wish you the best. Stay injury free - don't over do it.
I would say 10 years of climbing while also being coached by some amazing climbers would put you a little over the novice level..
Amateur might have been a better choice of word, I’ll agree!
The gryptonite app calls me a novice at V2 and intermediate is at v4 haha
How do you measure the max pull?
Great vid! Feeling inspired to introduce some proper training into my schedule🙏
Hope you have fun with it if you do! Glad you liked the video ☺️☺️
Showing to the gym many times a week for many weeks or months is hard, congrats on completing your challenge
Thank you - appreciated!
You said in the video that you had both a trip to Font and there was a week or two that had a lot of climbing time for work. I'm curious if that is significantly more than you were climbing and how much you think just being on the wall/rock more contributed to your gains.
Interesting to see your right arm is so much stronger then the left, do you notice that in climbing? I try to even them too but my left is also skinnier
Damn. That thumbnail though >>> good work!
I do love a good 40 day challenge, they are very fun to watch !
This one seemed especially relevant to my life, as I've been trying to be more consistent in going to the gym 3times a week, and finding it not super easy to arrange everything and free up that time (+ time for rest, adequate nutrition etc..). I've definitely noticed that in addition to physical strength you've improved a lot on the mental aspect of climbing (trying hard, trying on boulders that aren't your style etc...). I'm sure that that + the physical training will bring a lot of progress :)
I also find it super hard to fit everything in and feel like I’m spinning so many different plates. For this challenge I definitely neglected nutrition and sleep as really important factors, alongside the increase in training load. For sure one of the biggest differences I’ve seen in my climbing these last few weeks is mindset. Seeing metrics go up on strength tests, though they don’t directly mean better climbing skill, has been a big confidence boost which has had a positive snowball effect!
Really enjoyed this video and understanding the process and the progress of your training
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching
I wanted to use the app but we don’t use standardised grading systems anywhere I go climbing so I don’t know where I’m at and what I should pick 😭
well done for sticking to a plan!
Thank you!
Really interesting video Hannah. How tall are you, out of interest, I'm 4ft 10 for reference. Do you think you could keep up training on top of bouldering? And how well do you think the programs would translate for sport climbing?
I’m 5’5. I definitely want to keep training in some way, as well as climbing as usual. I’d be interested to try focussing some training time on sport climbing particularly. I’ve not really paid much attention to it as a discipline but there’s deffo some programmes in the app that would be useful for sport 😀
The EFFORT 13:49 is SO SICK HAHA💪💪
Haha who IS SHE 😂
@@hannahmorrisbouldering The inspiring Shehulk ! 😏😏
Small hint, Lock Off after 3 days on is actually easier as you've burnt some body weight by training hard. I weigh 67kg after two days of rest and recovery. After my third day on i could potentially be 64/5kg. That's 2-3kg lighter, therefor locking off is literally easier.
Sometimes its also just fun to do something structured and difficult for a bit
About that mystery pro climber collab . . . Stefano Ghisolofi?
This video really inspired me! I would really like to structure my own training more, and I think the crimp app is just an amazing tool when you haven't grown up with climbing and therefore don't have that many ideas about how to train other than just climb stuff. Great content, as always ❤️
Honestly my biggest problem is my body can't seem to handle climbing even 1 day off 1 day on without slowly degrading performance. This is after well over a year of climbing 3x per week.
Love the excitement!
Cool video, and good results/progress you made! I want to do something like this for me to get stronger. I have been climbing consistently for over 6 months and have not done any sort of climbing specific training. Would you recommend it? Any tips in general and where one should start?
What program on Crimpd have you followed?
It’s the program that Emil Abrahammson put together. ☺️
When I train hard a good rest is important. I take a week off and came back and was very suprised
Use the same before and after pose. Please
Please learn how to brace your core while doing pull ups - it will build a better kinetic chain, which is also good for climbing
nice progress, but would be very nice to get know how you trained with some explanation.
You went from climbing 6c to 8a??? Whatt da foook
where did you get the workouts from?
The Crimpd app :)
Or did you find it on the internet for free? sorry for asking much but really want to try myself
Hi, where is this wall of yours? (I'm not from London)
There’s a few different ones featured in this video all over the UK! ☺️
@hannahmorrisbouldering ok, i just know and tried the Castle two months ago.
I’ve never been to the Castle but it’s on my list!
Hello, can you build muscle mass by climbing??? I know it's not as much as lifting weights at the gym, but is it possible to do a small amount? enough to make a girl's arms look more aesthetic??? I'm very thin and I would like to have thicker arms but I don't like going to the gym to lift weights, I prefer to do sports.Thank you!
Congratulations on your progress. But I wish you would have put up a disclaimer: This rate of progress is exceptional and not the normal..it usually takes much longer, many months, to see this kind of progress.
Thanks! This is my genuine progress over 6 weeks (with my climbing history factored in). I think with a similar climbing history and a clear focus, others could achieve similar results. Not to say I wasn’t super happy with my progress, but I’m a pretty regular-strength climber. ☺️
Hi Hannah, I am inclined to disagree, but that's fine. Typical gains in finger strength over a year is around 8% on average. And your decade of climbing experience also argues against quick and fast "beginner" gains. Maybe something to discuss in a future video. Nevertheless, nothing to take away from your progress.
It also seems like you have crazy fingerstrength to bodyweight ratio for your current grade.
I think a huge factor here is something she mentioned at the start (that would be worth restating later on): that she was sick at the start of this and didn't climb much for 4 weeks. This is a big confounding factor in this "n-of-1" experiment, can't separate the gains from training with the gains from getting healthy and back to it!
@@m.wunderlich4942 training history is not duration in the sport but familiarity with the training/testing stimulus. Being she has not followed such a structured plan for finger training previously, much of the difference can be accounted for with a testing effect and some neurological adaptations in positioning cues. Plus, as mentioned, she was ill, and simply getting back to activity after a few weeks off will see a rapid rise.
Further, at this stage of climbing training research, we do not currently have a good understanding of measures of finger strength. Anyone having a typical percentage of gain is interpreting a single metric devoid of context, and would be curious where this 8% comes from.
Don't have time to watch quite yet, but judging by the thumbnail, it's been a success! Looking SO strong! 😁
As someone who feels that she has gotten three times stronger in the past 3 months than in the previous 12 months combined, I think that seriously focusing on training and diet can make a huge difference. I think one of the major factors for me was just taking 20g of protein supplements per day on top of my normal diet to round out my protein figures to about 1.8g per 1kg of body weight, and it seems to have made a huge difference.
Climbing ist not only to do 20 pullups... climbing is very complex and technical. 💪
.
Well done for committing! My only complaint is that the video ended too soon, I would have happily watched another 16 minutes on top 😄
Upcoming collab with Stefano?
🥸
I m actually wondering how strict pro are on diet and especially drinking even the first beer or wine...
was there a cheeky reference to who the professional climber is in minute 12? Sponsored by redbull? ;))
Whooooa I'm so early it says 34 seconds ago! Hannah - if you had to recommend between Scarpa Veloce and Scarpa Vapor which one would it be?
I’ve not tried Scarpa - only the Magos a few years ago - so I might not be best placed to help!
Do they both fit you fine? You should try to go to a store to try different sizes, and compare the fit of them. Rotate your ankle and try to find any air spots or pressure points, check to see if the heel will slip off if you try to heel hook too.
If they both feel good, the vapor v is stiffer and better for smaller foot holds and is potentially more durable.
The veloce are softer so will be better for smearing on larger holds and volumes, will probably be better for indoor climbing.
The veloce were my second shoe, they were durable and fairly comfortable. I then moved to the dragos and tend to prefer the softness in the gym, but they wear down quicker so i need to get them resoled often.
Figure out if you want a soft or stiff shoe, then try on different models to determine which fits the best within your budget. If you're fairly new to climbing, like less than 2 years, then try a stiffer shoe first as your foot technique will be worse and the stiffer rubber will last longer.
Whoa thanks for the solid advice! Screenshotted this for reference, haven't tried them on yet but I've narrowed it down to Scarpa (best choice where i'm from availability wise)@@TheTonVeron
@@jonstnrthese are quite different shoes, with the Veloce being an indoor centric climbing shoe with a great amount of dexterity in the toes, tons of flexibility, little support, and an exceedingly sticky rubber (which can be problematic on sharp rock and which Scarpa warns of) whereas the Vapor series tends to be a more all around shoe, but the models vary in amount of support and structure (the S is probably the most likely to perform for about anything including longer days in the shoe, the Lace offers the most support, while the V tends to perform well on about anything). Be mindful, the Veloce will stretch about a size and a half but if overly tight many of the benefits of an agile shoe are lost, while the Vapor V has enough toe support and structure to only stretch about half a size but perform well as a snug to tight fit.
Scarpa in particular have an impressive array of nuanced shoes, with a great focus on what the shoe is intended for in terms of foot hold types. Important to remember, though, most shoes are able to handle most climbing, when they get more specialized or able to handle another aspect of climbing some other parts become worse as there are trade offs. For the Veloce, this agility and sensitivity and stickiness means the shoe does little for small and sharp edges and benefits from things you want to get a lot of rubber around (as with volumes/macros indoors) or significant angle changes to wrap the toes around (again, the 3d climbing rather popular in commercial settings).
whoa! thank you so much for the detailed answer - I'll update when I get my new pair - thanks! @@zacharylaschober
It's sweet and thoughtful that you included pounds for Americans. But they really need to get onboard with metric 😂 even though it's painful for the ego.
I've found a massive difference with getting a structured programme is it completely removes the cognitive "what do I do today" load. Plus having a plan for 6-12 weeks means you start thinking longer term and plan in deload weeks.
One thing ive noticed on the odd occasions that "pros" have been in my gym, is they're often suprisingly "weak" except really theyre just in phases of their climbing cycle where they're not trying to perform- they're just completing the work on time and at the right target intensity. The problem is what most of them post on IG is their performance days/peaking period which totally skews people's impressions.
12:06 stefano?
Not me sat here watching this after a climbing session, with a takeaway pizza....I feel bad now xD
Noooooooo, you can't feel bad whilst eating pizza :D
hannah....hannah...hannah...yeeee !!!
Dang HAN'S !!!!!
you are so strong
Ty!
i see you as a pro climber
> as a novice climber
> I've been climbing for a decade
Hmmmmm. Nah.
Amateur or hobbyist might have been a better choice of word. I’m trying to make the distinction between pro and non pro.
@@hannahmorrisbouldering 'Intermediate'... :)? And that would be an understatement. You're probably in the top few % of people at bouldering gyms! Especially now that it has become a more mainstream sport.
Arguably climbing is your profession at this point (I'm assuming you're running this channel full-time, given the quality and quantity of content!), even if you're not competing professionally. If this channel is the result of part time work... that's super impressive.
'Enthusiast climber' might be a good term, taking from photography lingo. Though 'intermediate' would probably describe your skill level better, at least if we compare to grades rather than average capability of climbers.
But did you actually see your grade go up? Not the estimated grade, I mean can you now climb harder boulders?
Yes! Grades can be so subjective but I climbed my first V6 on the steep overhang at my local gym last week, and I’ve been putting together a 7C sport board which I would NEVER have tried, let alone linked sequences on - generally I think it’s because I’m feeling stronger that I apply a bit more confident on boulders, and I have a better, clearer focus for goals I have, for sure!
Novice climber - lead 7a, boulder 6c+. 😂 You're definitely an intermediate climber Hannah! I think you just spend too much time around incredibly strong climbers.
It would be awesome If you find them.
Gosh this video needs an epilepsy warning. The flashes are intense
Вот это фото превью! Огонь
Now way my max boulder is from 6c+ to 7a and i been climbing onece in a week for 7 months now. As a hoby climber.😊
Love it
🥰🥰
Wilson Richard Martinez Christopher Thompson Melissa
I cant even do one pull up 😢 I can do 5 chin ups though
At the moment, neither can I - it comes and goes for me depending on other variables, but it's cool to see how quickly it can build with training :)
Williams Timothy Perez Cynthia Williams Brian
Well done Hannah; In the six weeks you did “not” change nutrition? If yes, results? The never ending weight vs strength relationship. 😁👍
Why are you speaking in fast forward?
I just speak in retention editing now