Just a friendly tip, stick a penny between the drive gears on the top side to keep the engine from turning over when loosening everything. It will destroy the penny, but is softer and won't destroy your gears in the process. Also the plastic and metal in the bottom of the case is most likely from the original cam chain rollers/pulleys drying out and getting chewed up over the years.
Bend a copper penny in a vise 45 degrees and use it as a wedge between the oil filter & clutch basket gears so you can loosen the nut. That way you don't hurt the gears or bust a knuckle.
These videos are fantastic, thank you. All this info is available in manuals and forums, but it's been really nice seeing someone slowly take each part off and talk about it. Sharing your mistakes and confusion is also really helpful.... And amusing. Ive been considering a rebuild on my own CB350, but the ability to watch you do it first is really giving me a more accurate idea of the time and effort involved. As for the cost?.. There are so many options that it may not be worth talking about. Still, I'm curious to know what you spent on some of the larger jobs that were sent out: frame customizing and welding (maybe that one was a favor?), frame powder coating, head boring, etc. But, maybe that's not the point, and could be "tacky"? Regardless, thank you for sharing your experience, I'm entertained and informed. Wrenchedy-roo!
Jonathan Ellison Thanks for the support dude! At some point my plan is to talk about the cost of things but wanted to get into that more when I actually have the parts and processes done. As for now it wouldn't be hard to figure out the cost of some of this stuff. It's not exactly cheap but in my opinion worth it. It all depends on where you go and where you live. Living in Canada I get a bit ripped off when it comes to import and shipping charges! It's frustrating to say the least. I feel sorry for people who live in places like New Zealand where it's even for astronomical! Thanks again for the comment though and Wrenchedy-roo indeed! lol
Hey! Thanks for the videos! Super helpful. I'm in the midst of a rebuild and am learning so much. Something I'm struggling to see in the manual and videos is how the clutch plates are supposed to align in the basket. Between every 4 tooth there's a notch. Should I stack the plates back together so this notch is lined up for all the plates, or is this notch supposed to be offset? I'd appreciate any help! Thanks!
Let me first off say that these videos have been very helpful on my build so far, as I am working on a CB350 too. I was wondering what size the spanner socket was for the oil filter and if anyone could possibly get me a link to buy the tool. Thanks in advance.
I've tried everything to get the oil lock nut off with the spanner tool I acquired from Common Motor, but to no avail. I'm pretty sure I got all of the tabs pushed back. I get the spanner engaged. I've used the penny method and it does not hold the engine. I've had my bonehead housemate (did I type that outloud) hold the left side with a 14mm wrench as well. Again, it would not budge. Again, I believe the tabs are all pushed back. Any thoughts on the problem and what I should try next.
I'm trying to figure out if I should attempt to take the oil filter out and clean it or not, after watching your video I'm having some second thoughts, what is your opinion.Thanks for your time and videos !!!
I have a CB 360, 1972 AI believe, it was in storage a long time and now oil is coming out the exhaust, plugged vent some where from sitting so long? Any advice would help
Your piston rings are probably shot allowing oil to bypass the pistons into the ignition chamber and out through the exhaust. This is not good. You should check the compression on both cylinders. Sounds like you need a top end rebuild on your motor.
+CRM6718 like.. you want to strip the paint from the gas tank??? You'll need an industrial paint stripper.. every country has different chemical laws so depending where you live will be different products. Google is your friend haha
Not just stripping paint off, I want the tank to be more lean/small. So cut the gas tank and reweld that way it clears lower handle bars and look thinner.
+CRM6718 ahh gotcha.. thats a pretty serious job for a metal fabricator in my opinion. Unless you're familiar with welding and stuff like that then I say go for it.
+Tom Byrne Tom, one side of the nut is chamfered a little, allowing you to pre bend the tabs forward slightly. You'll only need to fully bend down one tab.. I should do a video explanation.
yo tom bomb here's what you do.... 1. you do put the side of the nut that is beveled in first... (another beautiful way honda makes things error proof) 2. tighten the nut with the special tool ( can be bought from Dime City cycles for 8 boners) 3. slide in a nice tough small flat head screw driver and twist the screw driver to bend the tab ( a screwdriver that has a socket or wrench attachment makes this much easier. or you can use vice grips to twist the screwdriver to bend the tab. like the one in this link www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/screwdrivers/8-piece-bolstered-screwdriver-set-94899.html cheers to the machines that make us happy
+Joseph Shivers buy the tool.. honestly it's worth it if u own this bike. You don't want to mess about and damage any internal parts on the engine. Trust me!
I've got a 73 CL. How tight do I tighten my clutch basket bolts? It can't be all the way down right? Or it would have no spring back. Right? Please help
+The Bangin' Burb Hey bud.. do you have a small torque wrench? You want about 7 ft lbs of pressure.. which is like very light. So yes, ig you don't have a small torque wrench I would tighten it carefully until it stops with a small amount of pressure. Then apply a small amount of pressure and turn it carefully just a small amount more and that's it! I've cracked a basket before so be careful! They are not fun to track down and expensive.
You need to pre-bend it slightly! Just enough so that you can get the nut on and then have enough space to sneak a tool in behind it and fully bend it.
Just a friendly tip, stick a penny between the drive gears on the top side to keep the engine from turning over when loosening everything. It will destroy the penny, but is softer and won't destroy your gears in the process. Also the plastic and metal in the bottom of the case is most likely from the original cam chain rollers/pulleys drying out and getting chewed up over the years.
just getting to this point. I have a cb350f. 4 cylinder. slightly different. but these videos. gold.
+bryan johnson Nice.. good luck with it!
oh i'm so gonna watch all your stuff ..a great "how to" ...clear shots and a nice pace ..liked and subbed!
Still looking good mate! You've got a really nice bike on your hands and it is coming along nicely! Keep up the good work and the updates!
Raisor Cheers! Oh I'm going all the way to the end! Thanks for the support.
Bend a copper penny in a vise 45 degrees and use it as a wedge between the oil filter & clutch basket gears so you can loosen the nut. That way you don't hurt the gears or bust a knuckle.
+TheGoatMumbler Thank you! I only learned that a week or so after doing this, figures. Cheers for the advice.
Super good video. Very instructional. Thank you. I will use what I learned to change clutch plates on my 76 Honda 360t.
These videos are fantastic, thank you. All this info is available in manuals and forums, but it's been really nice seeing someone slowly take each part off and talk about it. Sharing your mistakes and confusion is also really helpful.... And amusing. Ive been considering a rebuild on my own CB350, but the ability to watch you do it first is really giving me a more accurate idea of the time and effort involved. As for the cost?.. There are so many options that it may not be worth talking about. Still, I'm curious to know what you spent on some of the larger jobs that were sent out: frame customizing and welding (maybe that one was a favor?), frame powder coating, head boring, etc. But, maybe that's not the point, and could be "tacky"? Regardless, thank you for sharing your experience, I'm entertained and informed. Wrenchedy-roo!
Jonathan Ellison Thanks for the support dude! At some point my plan is to talk about the cost of things but wanted to get into that more when I actually have the parts and processes done. As for now it wouldn't be hard to figure out the cost of some of this stuff. It's not exactly cheap but in my opinion worth it. It all depends on where you go and where you live. Living in Canada I get a bit ripped off when it comes to import and shipping charges! It's frustrating to say the least. I feel sorry for people who live in places like New Zealand where it's even for astronomical! Thanks again for the comment though and Wrenchedy-roo indeed! lol
Saturdays Wrench i live in new zealand and am doing a honda cb350 build... i feel that pain
+Hal T How's the rebuild going, hopefully you are video'ing the rebuild?
Outstanding video! very helpfull
Great video
Hey! Thanks for the videos! Super helpful. I'm in the midst of a rebuild and am learning so much. Something I'm struggling to see in the manual and videos is how the clutch plates are supposed to align in the basket. Between every 4 tooth there's a notch. Should I stack the plates back together so this notch is lined up for all the plates, or is this notch supposed to be offset? I'd appreciate any help! Thanks!
Let me first off say that these videos have been very helpful on my build so far, as I am working on a CB350 too. I was wondering what size the spanner socket was for the oil filter and if anyone could possibly get me a link to buy the tool. Thanks in advance.
I've tried everything to get the oil lock nut off with the spanner tool I acquired from Common Motor, but to no avail. I'm pretty sure I got all of the tabs pushed back. I get the spanner engaged. I've used the penny method and it does not hold the engine. I've had my bonehead housemate (did I type that outloud) hold the left side with a 14mm wrench as well. Again, it would not budge. Again, I believe the tabs are all pushed back. Any thoughts on the problem and what I should try next.
I'm trying to figure out if I should attempt to take the oil filter out and clean it or not, after watching your video I'm having some second thoughts, what is your opinion.Thanks for your time and videos !!!
Do it! It's not that tough of a job and it will be fun for you to explore the engine. Plus who knows what's inside.
Pretty sure no ever cleaned the oil centrifuge or screen on my CB360. The gunk in there was amazing!
Instant Like for that Self-Diss :P
Hey man what width is that spanner tool??????????? please help.
I have a CB 360, 1972 AI believe, it was in storage a long time and now oil is coming out the exhaust, plugged vent some where from sitting so long? Any advice would help
Your piston rings are probably shot allowing oil to bypass the pistons into the ignition chamber and out through the exhaust. This is not good. You should check the compression on both cylinders. Sounds like you need a top end rebuild on your motor.
I'm working on my 1970 CB as well. I want to thin the gas tank...any references for that?
+CRM6718 like.. you want to strip the paint from the gas tank??? You'll need an industrial paint stripper.. every country has different chemical laws so depending where you live will be different products. Google is your friend haha
Not just stripping paint off, I want the tank to be more lean/small. So cut the gas tank and reweld that way it clears lower handle bars and look thinner.
+CRM6718 ahh gotcha.. thats a pretty serious job for a metal fabricator in my opinion. Unless you're familiar with welding and stuff like that then I say go for it.
Ya, I can weld it but I will never be able to keep the coutures right...I need some professional help.
I cannot tell if invent back the tabs. I think not because I cannot get the nut to move. How can I be sure that the tabs are bent back.
+Tom Byrne Tom, one side of the nut is chamfered a little, allowing you to pre bend the tabs forward slightly. You'll only need to fully bend down one tab.. I should do a video explanation.
yo tom bomb
here's what you do....
1. you do put the side of the nut that is beveled in first... (another beautiful way honda makes things error proof)
2. tighten the nut with the special tool ( can be bought from Dime City cycles for 8 boners)
3. slide in a nice tough small flat head screw driver and twist the screw driver to bend the tab ( a screwdriver that has a socket or wrench attachment makes this much easier. or you can use vice grips to twist the screwdriver to bend the tab. like the one in this link
www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/screwdrivers/8-piece-bolstered-screwdriver-set-94899.html
cheers to the machines that make us happy
Got it on. Works well now.
what if you dont have that oil filter spanner tool? how else can you get the lock nut out?
+Joseph Shivers buy the tool.. honestly it's worth it if u own this bike. You don't want to mess about and damage any internal parts on the engine. Trust me!
I've got a 73 CL. How tight do I tighten my clutch basket bolts? It can't be all the way down right? Or it would have no spring back. Right? Please help
+The Bangin' Burb Hey bud.. do you have a small torque wrench? You want about 7 ft lbs of pressure.. which is like very light. So yes, ig you don't have a small torque wrench I would tighten it carefully until it stops with a small amount of pressure. Then apply a small amount of pressure and turn it carefully just a small amount more and that's it! I've cracked a basket before so be careful! They are not fun to track down and expensive.
So how did you bend it back to install the nut??
You need to pre-bend it slightly! Just enough so that you can get the nut on and then have enough space to sneak a tool in behind it and fully bend it.
Question. Does that oil filter actually take a paper filter?
Thanks
+Jake Fin no.. its a mesh screen. You'll want to clean it out from time to time.
Thank you.
Woooooo!