Honda CB350 CB360 CB450 Oil Filter Clean How To
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- www.common-moto...
The Honda CB350 / CB360 / CB450 family of motorcycles have a centrifugal oil filter system rather than a paper filter element. The oil rotor (filter) spins at high speed and causes any dirt particles to be pressed to the inside of the rotor cup, while the clean oil is pumped out. The rotor should be opened up and cleaned every other oil change (3000 miles / 5000 KM). CB350's and CB450 make this easy with an small cover on the right side of the engine. CB360's require the entire right side cover to be removed to get to the access to the filter. This is also a good time to clean any debris off the oil pump pick-up screen.
Parts & Tools You May Need:
Impact Driver: www.common-moto...
--CB350 / CL350 Family of Bikes--
Honda CB350 / CB450 Oil Drain plug: www.common-moto...
Honda CB350 / CL350 Oil Change Gasket Kit: www.common-moto...
or
Honda CB350 / CL350 Service Gasket Kit: www.common-moto...
Honda CB350 / CL350 Allen Bolt Kit: www.common-moto...
--CB360 / CL360 / CJ360 Family of Bikes--
Honda CB360 Oil Drain plug: www.common-moto...
Honda CB360 / CL360 / CJ360 Oil Change Gasket Kit: www.common-moto...
or
Honda CB360 / CL360 / CJ360 Service Gasket Kit: www.common-moto...
Honda CB360 / CL360 / CJ360 Allen Bolt Kit: www.common-moto...
--CB450 / CL450 / CB500T Family of Bikes--
Honda CB450 / CL450 / CB500T Oil Change Gasket Kit: www.common-moto...
or
Honda CB450 / CL450 / CB500T Service Gasket Kit: www.common-moto...
Honda CB450 / CL450 / CB500T Allen Bolt Kit: www.common-moto... - Авто та транспорт
I have a lovely '72 CL350 with an oil leak. This video was immensely helpful to me. Over the past few weekends a friend and I have been working on getting the case off and replacing the gaskets and seals. I dont think we could have done it without your help and the products and tools from Common Motor. We used the "unicorn impact driver" and I have the gasket kit. I am currently in the process of removing all of the old gasket seal and and the paper gasket from the previous owner and hope to have everything on this side finished next weekend. Hopefully opening the other side of the engine will go well and I will have my beauty sealed up and running again soon. Thank you!
Engine case screws are M6 and work great to remove the filter. Thanks for the great videos!
Great video, doing my first oil change on my 72 CL350 when cleaning out the filter cup I used a piece of plastic from a milk jug to catch the junk coming out. Worked great, sprayed part cleaner in to wash it out after wiping and scraping. You guys are doing a great job! Thanks.
I agree. Without Common Motor Collective, I wouldn't have been able to do half of the upgrades and maintenance tasks I needed to get the bike back on the road!
This is the next step in my edumacation on my 69CB. I'm not a mechanic so I watched this video a couple of times, and made some lists (on graph paper) in preparation. I ordered the gasket kit, special whackadriver, anticipatory replacement allen bolts, and the flingythingy remover tool. After my present arrived, I went out to spray some leggothat fluid on the bolts and clean my filter. Low and behold, there's an exhaust system in the way of 4 of the bolt heads. Back to video search to figure out what's involved with removing the right side header. OK...it's not that big a deal. But if I had known, I would have ordered the copper exhaust washers at the same time. Maybe you're working on a CL in the video. Or maybe it was so easy to remove, that you didn't even think of telling the viewer about it. But I need all the help I can get. Maybe my comment will help the next newbie to come along.
Why is it no one ever mentions that these case screws are NOT Philips head, but instead JIS head screws? It’s an important distinction, and confusion usually leads to stripped heads on bolts.
Thanks for the videos guys, keep em coming.
You guys should do a clutch cable swap next. I changed mine recently, followed very concise directions, and now for the life of me can not get them to engage!
Great video and reminder of this procedure. Noticed you swapped the case phillips pan head screws with socket head cap screws. Good idea!
Good job man.Brought back so many memories.Did so many of these back in the day.Found the Cb 350 much better than the cb360.CB 450 was really good apart from ground clearance!Keep up the good work.Nice to see you replaced the cover screws with cap bolts.Much better than original.
This is exactly what I needed before trying this myself. Thanks sir! You got a new subscriber today.
Great video! The screws are JLS and you can use a JLS bit to get them out, if you can find one.
My recommendation is that if it's been awhile since your last clean out, or you have a long-sedentary bike, and you are lucky enough get those three phillips screws out that secure the oil filter cover, replace them with allen key bolts. I had to take my CB350 cover off, take it to a machine shop, and have them weld nuts to the old screws in order to crack them out.
Colin Grier I had problems with mine too. I used a screw extractor kit and it worked great
Yeah bloody dreadful. Been working on one today, its been sittin for decades.
I just opened one that has 835 miles on the clock, hasn't been run in 40+ years. JIS impact driver, brass hammer, and a little spray of Inox MX3 ( far far superior to WD-40) and it came right off.
@@James_Sovereign 2 of mine were that easy. The third, not so much...
Thanks for another great video. Man, you weren’t kidding about the filter in this video being on the cleaner side. Mine looked like someone had smashed a chocolate cupcake into it!
YOU DA` MAN !!!! I will be ordering some parts from you ! Thanks !!
The engines were super reliable so this system works , but I heard there was a filter available in Italy. But it required machining. Did you ever hear of it. Thanks
Back in 1976 I rebuilt five 1968 350s and helped friends with theirs. I've seen those oil filters so full there was just a little-finger-sized hole down the middle. The "dirt" seemed to be mostly clutch material. And pro tip, that spring loaded mating piece in that small cover sometimes jammed cockeyed and when you put it back on it would not mate with the spinning filter causing a huge leak in the internal system = lube failure.
True. I've seen the same here in the UK - we mostly had 250s due to 'learner laws' and the 350/360s were rarer. The G5 and CJs were known over here as 'lemons' due to premature failure of cam bearings - cam runs directly in the metal of the head. I worked for a bike breaker in the early'80s and saw a lot of dead G5 and CJ 250s (Ks seemed to be less prone) that had died die to lube starvation to the top end. Without exception their centrifugal filters were completely choked.
@@anemone104 I've seen more than a few blue and brown cam bearings. Good ones were impossible to find second hand.
@@tsbrownie Yep, blued bearings, bright blue follower pads, follower pads with the hard chrome pitted or even worn concave, cam lobes with the 'bump' worn off, scored bearings, apertures in bearing housings worn oval, cams seized in bearing housings, you name it. At least with the K series you could fit better housings and cams or even bore out the bearing housings and fit a bush or grind down the cam bearing and shrink on a sleeve, but with the later bikes, once the cam was done, the head was done, and so was the bike.
@@anemone104 Wow, that brings back some painful memories. ;)
@@tsbrownie Luckily for me, not that painful. Most of these 'issues' were seen in a twin wheel trailer load of 250 Honda twin engines bought cheap from the breaker I worked for at college. All dead, but enough good parts to keep my bike running on the cheap and some parts that were sold off. My old Dad (bless him) got very good at separating cranks into components and building good ones. He liked the challenge. He got part way through building a 350 motor with a 72 degree firing order and gear drive to the cam. Way beyond my skill level to finish but he's gone now...
Thank you for doing these videos!! So helpful. Really appreciate it
Do you think you could do a 350 clutch adjustment video?
Such a great, clear explanation/video! I assume same procedure on my 69 CL450? Thank you Edit: I assumed you did but definitely need to show adding oil to it when completed and the amount. I could see that easily being forgotten to do which of course can be a huge oops. Again, other than that, great clear video and explanation and good camera angles.
How often should this cleaning be done?
The oil rotor should be cleaned out at every second oil change, so at 3000 miles / 5000km.
CB72/77 and all the variants using that engine design are the same with the centrifugal filter. You can remove it through the liittle cover but getting that driving chain back on is a trick.
Is this really necessary? Used to work at a motorcycle shop, and eventually came to the conclusion that it was better to leave well enough alone (unless doing major work). My reasons? 1. Never seen one even 5% full. 2. Deposits coating the drum are generally "sticky", and probably help trap more particles. 3. Scraping the drum out is likely to re-contaminate the oil in certain circumstances. All of this may explain why Honda didn't bother to put a CF service port in the clutch cover of the 360. Despite all of this, I still like CMC videos.
I have the hex bolt from common motor. I use one of the side cover bolts to pull the oil filter cap
Great videos guys!
Is it possible to just inspect the oil filter without draining the oil from the case, or it the oil level in the case too high?
You can lean the bike on its left so the oil goes to that side
How much replacement oil do you recommend and what is the best weight and brand of oil?
3 quarts of 5w-30 Lucas.
Thank you for doing these videos. This helps keep a 74 cb450 k7 on the road
If you find that the oil filter has lots of aluminium paste in it , check and re-set the cam chain tension , a.s.a.p. before the rubber tensioner components self distruct . the aluminium paste is from wear to the barrells caused by a slack cam chain .
On the small round cover there is a pry notch on the bottom also.
These are damn useful videos!! Thank you so much for passing on your knowledge
Normally such a pain to get that clip back on as the o ring has swelled and the end wont compress in enough
Hi do you have a video on checking oil pump. That would be nice to explain. I want to see oil pumping before I run it
(from memory 36 years ago) I was thinking the filter access cover only goes on in one way so you can not get it wrong the bolts are not at 120 degrees spacing it is off set some so the holes only align in one place.
Should we take up a collection so you guys can get a bike lift? :)
Thats for pussys
@@jeffbaker655 Seriously?
Yeah.... right! Talk about not using a lift when you are 20 years older.
Do you have torque specs for the oil and case bolts?
Toutes tes vidéos sont très intéressantes à voir, merci vraiment.
I have a newer/smaller Honda twin, my old college bike restore project, a 1980 CM200T Twinstar. I think it just has a screen over the oil pump....or does it also have a centrifugal filter? PS Nice informative video here, good pacing & advice!
thank you!
One question, cb350 and cl350 is same location for the oil filter?
Very Helpful, I have a 71 cb350 and enjoy your video's.
Glad you like them!
@@Common-motorFacebook 😂😮
What size bolts are in the round oil filter cover? (pitch and length) Thanks,ljw😊
about how many miles do you think are on that engine judging by oil filter condition?
I just did an engine swap 1970 SL350, replaced with a 71 SL350, just drained oil after having it running and found the slinger to have light residue and no O-Rings. If I run it does it bypass the slinger? Is it ok to run it like this for a bit as I just got it running. I will definitely order some up. Thanks.
Thank you.. brilliant video...
Do you think common motor will be getting into the cm400 series of bikes?
Thank you for a great video. Simple and clear.
kerosene is a good cleaner for the job on the filter housing.Catch the debris as it pours out using a plastic dish under the housing.
Are the o-rings necessary for retaining oil pressure? I just had an engine failure that that I believe may be attributed to a lack of oil after I cleaned the oil filter and failed to notice the o-rings.
After the filter cover is removed you can place a piece of thin plastic sheet under the bottom of the filter to spray the filter clean and catch the dirt draining outside of the engine. Use a small brush to clean the inside of the filter as you spray with an oil based cleaner spray. Removing the cup will not be necessary.
Great video thanks! I'm confused tho.
I went to pull the filter cover off my 73 to verify but someone's put different bolts in and they're all chewed up. So I'll have to do it another time. But my confusion is, Every time I search oil filters for these bikes, I find the paper style. Even k&ns site lists a paper style for it. I bought one at Canadian tire before seeing this video. Then watched this and thought they sold me the wrong part. Verified with k&ns site and it's supposed to be right (kn401). What's the deal?
The deal is you don't have an oil filter, as evidenced by taking the side cover off.
@@James_Sovereign I still wonder why they have a listing for the wrong part
Thanks, very helpful as mearly the same as the 500 T.
Brendon Does one have to remove the foot peg to get the case cover off. Also Thanks for your Videos and parts supply shop.
Depends on the bike model, most will require removal.
Im guessing its the same method for a 1975 cb500t yeah?
Thanks for all the parts!
Add a little Marvel to crankcase and change oil when dirty and you should be fine. I don''t think engineers meant this motor to run on super clean oil all the time.
Can a brush and denatured ethanol be used to clean?
I have a question on my Honda CL 175 I have 3 rings for the piston I know the ring that goes on the bottom how do I tell the way the other to rings go one is black and the other one not
I've tried everything to get the oil lock nut off with the spanner tool I acquired from Common Motor, but to no avail. I'm pretty sure I got all of the tabs pushed back. I get the spanner engaged. I've used the penny method and it does not hold the engine. I've had my bonehead housemate (did I type that outloud) hold the left side with a 14mm wrench as well. Again, it would not budge. Again, I believe the tabs are all pushed back. Any thoughts on the problem and what I should try next. Please don't ask why I need to remove and replace the filter itself - that was my own bonehead move.
Hello , is it the same for cd175 1972 ?
Yes, more or less CB/CL and CD175s and also CB/CL200 as I recall but not CD/CM200 etc which is a later engine design altogether and just has a gauze screen which you have to remove the clutch cover to get to.
How often is it necessary to clean the filter? Every oil change? 74 CB450.
I'd do it every other oil change
Can you remove the clutch basket (for disc inspection and/or replacement) without having to remove the oil filter rotor?
no
Get a VALTERMOTORSUSA cartridge filter conversion.
A great video - thanks! I just have one question... at 15:20, is there a crack in the crankshaft bearing housing just above the 3 o’clock position?
I see what you are talking about. I do not recall seeing this when we filmed it, but I could be mistaken. I'm guessing it is just a scratch in the case. It would take a lot to crack the case there, but anything is possible.
Hello.... I'm a retired Honda tech (Honda motorcycle certified tech). I cut my teeth on the twins and remember the mark you are talking about. It's a casting
mark.... there's nothing to be worried about.
Great videos, thanks for doing them! All makes sense but on my 74 360, the engine case is being a bear about going back on. Is there a trick to lining up the shaft to go into the bearing held in the cover? Looks like significant differences in 350 to 360 engine. Trying not to hit too hard with mallet...yet.
Just picked up a CJ360T yesterday and started doing an engine inspection... The case on mine was a pain to come off, and go back on... I was worried that I was doing something wrong or that something was broken or misaligned inside to cause the issue... I'm interested to see what insights a professional would have on why the kick start shaft would hang up so badly on the 360's?
love your videos
It's called a sling filter
Can the filter be cleaned without removing the case cover?
I'm glad you asked this. Yes I just took a rag and stuffed it below the filter housing cleaned it out with a screwdriver then blew it out with brake clean. I did not take that side cover off
I don't remove the side cover when I clean out my old filter. I just stick a rag underneath the filter clean it with a screwdriver then blow it with brake clean nothing goes inside the engine much quicker
I’ve tried to remove the cap with an m6 at least that’s what Amazon said it was didn’t work? Any ideas? I’m trying to open up my sl175 and this is holding me back
Ah, working on a video about this right now! The 175/200 family of bikes actually have two set of internal threads in the oil filter cap. There is m8 x 1.25 thread that you thread in a long m8 bolt and that acts as a pusher/puller to push the cap off.
Why can you not just blast the oil filter with brake/carb cleaner? Why do you have to be so gentle?
Great Job , Thanks
I cant get the cover off inside of that
Love that jacket. What is it?
Tayor, are you talking about the jacket that William is wearing? I believe it came from Cycle Gear and has been modified by William.
@@Common-motor i wanted to ask the same question. but i meant the one Brenden wears, with the red emblem.
It's a Continental Airlines Mechanic's jacket. I had one some 35 years ago.... mine doesn't fit any more....
oy. so my 360 has a slow leak out of each overflow tube for both carbs. also the right side carb , I have to 'force' fuel into it so to speak. I do this by removing the fuel line from the petcock to the carb and 'flood' the fuel line then fuel flows into the bowl? Im thinking float level but how does it overflow and not accept fuel at the same time? while running, my bike spits n sputters and doesnt like to idle (only when warm, runs fantastic when cold, dont even need the choke to start it). I dont suspect electrical because all of that is new
great videos also!
Sounds like the float level is to high and flooding the carb out. I would take them off and try resetting the float height.
is this the same method for a CB250Rs ?
If it has a similar setup it could be. I'm not familiar with he CB250r enough to give you a for sure answer.
Hi I have a cb500t. I guess it's basically the same ?
Definitely! A good portion of the CB500t is just like the CB450's. Oil filter will be the same.
@@Common-motor did it yesterday any way thanks
use brake clean spray to clean the filter imo
is this the same for a Cl 350? (Honda Scrambler)
Yes, CL350 and CB350 are nearly identical.
Same method applies to the 500t as well?
I believe so!
Common Motor Collective thank you for the quick response! I didn’t want to assume anything when dealing with an antique.
Question: will the clutch rebuild kit in your parts catalogue work on my Honda CB 900custom clutch basket? slipping..
Thats not currently a bike we support so I can't really say.
No luigi.... the clutches are different size due to higher engine horsepower on the 900 than the 305/360/450/500T's
I'd use a nylon brush or toothbrush to clean the filter, nylon is better if you use chemicals
Brenden "A little grease" Macaluso.
Why not use a toothbrush and some carb clean or something?
Forgot to take the o ring off and snapped the o ring holder off , ugh
Great Channel, sub'd
I own a 1978 Honda CB400K twin motorcycle. Why is it that you guys never acknowledge the bike?
Its a very different platform and motorcycle than the ones we support. I'm sure a lot of general knowledge transfers to working on it but currently, I don't have one here.
@@Common-motor Thanks for the info.
❤@@Common-motor
Forgot to put oil in engine.
NOOOOOOOOOOO I hope you caught this before it was too late.
brendan i can barely see ur eyeballs from all that austin green green ur puffin