Thank you. I have one of these pumps on my 1977 Transit, and it runs nice in the cool of the evening, but blows a little white smoke in the heat of the day. So now I know how to adjust it a little leaner, I am most grateful.
Thank you so much. Your instruction was clear and easy to follow. It has made a really noticable difference to the performance of my 4250 kg 2.5 l turbo '96 Iveco daily motorhome
Hello Shane - thank you for your time and instructive video. I might disagree with your analysis of that stopper screw above the Diaphram. I think it is a fuel adjustment at idle and/or a way of correcting AFR with turbo spool-up - as a thought. Have a good day!
very helpful thanks for sharing done this on a 35/10 iveco daily and changed the van performance on hills pulling a trailer it has way faster pick up and keeps up the revs better
You have explained far more about HOW the adjustments affect the output of the motor. Much appreciated. Many videos out here on what to do but you actually make sense of it all. Thanks very much sir!!
@@Tractorkinguk excellent vid,very concise. . i have an mwm sprint,4.2tdi. in aus. very hard here to find any,decent mechanic for any vehicle. its all money, not professionalism..ive fitted a bigger turbo. to6.up from to4. . dyno,d at 170kw, 700nm.. no other mods.pity its hard to get parts or engines..the new version was common rail. never seen any..
Very nice to see an actual pump in the metal so to speak and not drawings on a piece of paper, it makes much more sense now. Being the recent owner of a 200TDi I'm now more confident in giving the old girl slightly more pep. Some thing that comes up on Landy forums, and I'm not sure if it's as critical on other engines is exhaust temp, they recommend never touching the maximum fuel screw on the back of the case unless you have an exhaust temp gauge fitted. Seems the Landys aluminium heads loosen valve seat inserts if the exhaust gets too hot. Probably just a Land Rover design feature :-) Cheers.
I have never heard of the valve seats coming away, you may get that problem when running too much boost pressure as that would raise the temp a lot, glad the video was of help to you
Slightly incorrect regards “will not effect off boost” by turning boost pin. Your starting point it deeper, so it will be richer off boost, wide open. Best thing to do is use the pin on its shallowest setting, but grind the boost side deeper, so you will only get more fuel once the turbo is in.
Not just early 300 tdi, they were on the last 300tdis too. You need to take the cap off as under tha cap there is a screw to adjust the pre boost. It makes a hell of a difference. Tutrn it inm 3/4 to one full turn and adjust to reduce any black smoke.
these were great diesel pumps the ones on japenese cars were by denso under a liensce from bosch and if anything were better after changing diesel filter on a toyota engine starts straight up .
Thank you for this video! My fiat uno td is making smoke on full pedal on high turbo pressure. I will ajust the lda spring with your instructions. Than you!
This is a great, easy to digest resource for guys jumping into tuning Bosch pumps for the first time, much easier than surfing hundreds of forum pages, can't wait for part 2! Do you plan on covering the Governor spring mod? I've been trying to educate myself on it before jumping into my pump.
Helpful video thanks. I was looking for the next video where you go inside. I'm trying to figure out what the lever on the side does. Mine was loose when I did the throttle shaft bush. I think the spindle is in a different position on the shaft. As it was so loose. I wanted to see and hear what it all does. Many thanks.
I've adjusted fuel & boost spring, then did the governor mod. It won't rev higher than ~1,500 then it'll choke and I get white smoke until it dies. Tried 1.54 & 1.45 timing on the gauge without much difference. It gets worse when warm and won't restart.
Have you checked all basic engine timing is correct firstly, this sounds like a timing issue sounds like pump is way retarded, have you done anything with the auto advance on pump
I have a VE pump on my volvo 240 diesel. When I rev my car in neutral it doesn't smoke, but when i drive it, it smokes like hell...black smoke. What should I do?
Well you haven’t said if you have done any modification to the engine or pump, also start at the air cleaner and hoses first make sure no air restrictions, also is this a turbo model or not
Hello, I got a VE pump to replace one that broke on my engine. The original according to the pump spec sheet delivers less fuel accross the rpm range compared to the new pump. Would turning out the fuel screw likely make the new pump similar to the old one? Its on a marine application where loads are high all the time and exhaust temperatures could be a concern.
Thanks a lot for this video. I have a 12mm rotor pump, and ive played with the enrichment screw. The car is currently not running well, and exactly what you described happened when i went too far. Rev hanging, and slow to return to idle. However there is little smoke while revving, and a decent amount of smoke at idle. It feels underpowered and sluggish. I have yet to turn the star wheel, but i will try it soon. Any advice for the current synptoms im having? Thank you!
This might be a noob question but isnt changing to a bigger plunger just the same as increasing fuel supply on the max power fuel screw? For exemple, a 10mm with increased fuel screw would deliver the same fuel as 11mm with stock fuel screw no? Thanks
hi, I see that you attached the pump from the car, so I got the idea to do it myself, but the direction of the ignition bothers me, the crankshaft and the pump rotate in the same direction in the Ursus, and in mine the pump is in the opposite direction from the crankshaft, the question is whether it can be done to combine, and the holes on the pump where the screws go all graze. Thank you for your reply.
Thanks for the video Shane, I have an issue with my VE pump in my camper. I turned the boost pin for more fuel and by mistake turned the toothed wheel. There is now next to no power low in the rev range but when boost comes in she flys. Any ideas how to make her more driveable? Ist dangerous pulling away from junctions.
Oh good to hear you have sorted it out, you may have turned it anti clockwise previously which loads the spring up more and then requires greater amount of boost before extra fuel is delivered, lowering the wheel reduces the tension and allows extra fuel at lower boost levels. Thanks for the comments and happy you gained something from the video
Thanks for the video I'm going to wined my pump in a bit tomorrow. I have a Ford Transit 2.5di mk5 non turbo but it still has the boost valve thing you adjusted first on top of the pump, will playing with this help at all with the non turbo? Don't know why it has one if it's only for boost? Thank you.
Really informative video, well explained, thank you. Do you have any advice on how to test and if necessary, replacing the diaphragm. Is it simply removing the retaining nut and washers to replace the diaphragm, or is there some kind of alignment necessary? Thanks again
Replacing the diaphragm is simple like you said just undo it and replace, no alignment etc, as for testing the diaphragm this would be quite difficult so if in doubt just replace it
Thanks for the reply and I’m glad the video helped. The adjustment under the cap if tightened inwards this reduces the amount that the diaphragm can return when no turbo boost is made, this then allows the pump to deliver slightly higher fueling when no boost is been made which is really no advantage to power increases. Please share the video if possible as I’m trying to build a greater audience and if there’s any suggestions of videos people would like, if I can do them I will try my best to post one
Ive been looking for some one who knows a bit about these pumps for a couple of weeks ,,, I put a 200 tdi discovery engine into a defender , the engine has sat about for four years , long story short its in and runs as sweet as a nut , but it will never start on its own , a whif of either and its off no bother , no smoke , no crankcase breathing or the likes , runs sweet ,,, it will warm through and sit happy , but if you turn it off it will not restart on its own , hot or cold ,, but a whiff of either and off it goes , its like the excess diesel start device is not working , now the question is , can I lube something , or reach in and wiggle something to free up what ever is stuck , , ive run the engine up to temp a dozen times and I can kid myself its occasionally getting closer to starting on its own at first flick of the key , its really not there yet and has never started on its own ,,, one quarter second whif of fuel either and its off , even shutting it off at high reves and trying to get it to start half a second after it stops ,,, no way . Any tips would be appreciated ,, thanks in advance..
@@Tractorkinguk yep ,, everything good there , it just wont quite fire ,,, its so close , and sometimes its sort of coughing that once as if it will lift but nope , missing that last 5%
So I have a question, I have a 83 gmc s15 wich has a 2.2 isusu in it. I've added a turbo and while turning the screw on the back I went as far as I could before I couldn't adjust my idle down anymore. After doing that I thought it would be a good idea to take the arm off the throttle shaft and adjust it back one notch for a little extra idle lowering ability. Now I've realized that won't work and I can't get the same power (fuel) I was before because it either revs up way to much or idles to low. When I get it perfect I have no exta power it's worse then stock. Idk if I messed something up while moving the throttle arm or what. Any advice helps, thanks.
What I would try first would be to back off the max fuel adjustment and set up your throttle linkage again as the adjustment screw affects the tension on the government springs attached to throttle control, it’s also possible that the spring has got jammed on underside of the throttle, try back off screw first and reset throttle if that don’t work I will put you a video on of how to remove the top and what’s inside
3 роки тому
Greate video! Unfortunatelly I have problem with my pump. There is custom boost pin, I have cranked spring tension about 4 clics (like 1/8 turn) and increased fuel ratio with 1/4 turn. After starting engine the pump is leaking a lot, the leak looks like from middle section around speed mechanism. Anny idea whats wrong? Also I can't lower my revs anny more, the linkage is stopping me from doing it. Appreciate anny help!
As for the revs you will have to obviously make some adjustments to your linkage to do this, fuel leaks are common on the throttle spindle shaft and the bush wears out also, both the bush and seal are available on eBay but this requires removal of the top lid and some springs, if your not confident don’t try do it yourself
3 роки тому
Alright, I have replaced throttle spindle shaft oring witch main body seal, that was the cause of leaking issue. When putting it back together I have also rotated throttle lever two notches and that helped to get lower idle. But there is new issue, it can be heard that engine work is more clanky, more metallic with a very snappy and sensitive reaction to throttle. There is also a bit of white smoke at startup and some revving.
My question and theory here is: Is it possible that resealing pump restored factory performance and changed engine timing? The pump was regulated by previous owner probably "by ears" with leaking sympthoms ( i suppose) what caused setting more advanced timing to get normal work due to lower efficiency?
Firstly taking the top off and putting it back on can’t adjust timing, but there’s one thing to check that you may have removed that will effect running. If you removed inlet and return banjo fittings check that the return line has the bolt with smaller hole in it, this affects case pressure of the pump if wrong way round
This could be a range of things, but injection pump wise it maybe be running slightly retarded, mark the pump up so you have a reference point and advance it slightly see if this clears it up
heres one unsure if my pump was messed with previously or not , but i recently fitted a boost pin and now have no power or smoke at all till turbo kicks in and even then theres only a little odd puff of smoke when on boost , would you say i need to adjust the star wheel?
Check adjustment on your pin firstly, you may have done it the wrong way test that first, if no better try adjust the star wheel down taking pressure off the spring, tray this half a turn at a time until your happy with the response, hope this helps
@@Tractorkinguk the pin is the new flat type upgraded boost pin only goes in one way , since fitting it is where ive had no low down power at all , seen another video that mentions turning the torx bit under the brass cap 1 turn
If you haven’t removed the pump or adjusted any pump timing you could try it, I’m unsure if the new pin would be different on low boost but it is possible and would be corrected by the torx screw, if still no better give it a bit more fuel on main fuel stop screw just give it half a turn in
After seeing this video I can’t understand why modern vehicles are so hard to understand like this is nothing 10 min job and it’s set to your preference
Sir i am a farmer and i have tractor new holland 50hp non turbo with bosch rotary ve pump with 3 cylinders...how can i increase the power of this pump without affecting its life
@@firstname3657 why not see what you can get out of your pump before you modify it, to be honest the extra fuel you can get out of it without modification will be plenty for a standard engine that hasn’t been turbocharged as you will struggle to burn it all, think simple need more wind for more coal
@@Tractorkinguk sir i am also going to turbocharge it...so please tell me in detail what modifications i can do in pump to gain atleast 10-15 hp because company is producing 65 hp from the same engine just witn turbo and pump nozle settings....Pump is bosch VE rotary 3 cylinder:-- 0 460 423 080 VE/12F1250L1187
@@firstname3657 firstly you would be better fitting a pump with turbo boost compensation like the one in my video, most pumps like this were fitted with a 10mm plunger you can fit the 13mm plunger but will also require the pump head also
Please HELP Shane. My mechanic adjusted that bolt that’s sticking out and now my car won’t start. And when it finally starts I have lots of smoke and a very rough idle. How can I adjust it back to normal setting. Which way do I turn it?
@@Tractorkinguk before this was done it was running perfectly fine. And than after the mechanic turned the fuel screw I drove it home (20 minute drive). And I turned it off for about 1 hour. And than when I turned it on it started to rev very high (red line). After that. I towed it back to the mechanic and he re adjusted the fuel screw again and he turned it on in front of me. I saw some white smoke coming from exhaust he told me it’s okay it will go away (This was yesterday). Now this morning I start the car and it having a hard to to start and idles very rough. And lots of smoke.
@@mikeglovic7254 I would be checking the pump timing pal sounds like this may have moved, if your man had altered your pump timing also when first adjustment was done it kind of sounds like the pump timing is retarded
I live in a. NON Emissions state. So I'd turn the co..AR half and the diagram post also half, On the non turbo V4 pump will simply adding 2 washers on the spring advance give it more power? I rebuilt my V4 pump on my peugeot and it has new injector nozzels also with no added shims. I have a donar pump and I'm considering adding its 2 washers as my boost ring upgrade will it work.
Thank you. I have one of these pumps on my 1977 Transit, and it runs nice in the cool of the evening, but blows a little white smoke in the heat of the day. So now I know how to adjust it a little leaner, I am most grateful.
Best tutor I've seen on how to tune a v pump.👍🏻
Thanks much appreciate it
As a 1985 BMW 524td owner, I thank you.
The best explaination of this I've ever heard thanks mate
Thank you for the feedback and glad it was of help to you
Thank you so much. Your instruction was clear and easy to follow. It has made a really noticable difference to the performance of my 4250 kg 2.5 l turbo '96 Iveco daily motorhome
Thank you and please share your findings
Super video, tweaked my pump on my motorhome and now I can pull up hills.
Happy it’s been of help to you and thanks for the feedback
Hello Shane - thank you for your time and instructive video. I might disagree with your analysis of that stopper screw above the Diaphram. I think it is a fuel adjustment at idle and/or a way of correcting AFR with turbo spool-up - as a thought. Have a good day!
very helpful thanks for sharing done this on a 35/10 iveco daily and changed the van performance on hills pulling a trailer it has way faster pick up and keeps up the revs better
Were you able to do it with the pump on the engine or did you have to take it out?
@@paintslee4524was able to do it on the van plenty of room to work on it
You have explained far more about HOW the adjustments affect the output of the motor. Much appreciated. Many videos out here on what to do but you actually make sense of it all. Thanks very much sir!!
Thanks for your positive feedback David glad it’s been helpful for you
@@Tractorkinguk excellent vid,very concise. . i have an mwm sprint,4.2tdi. in aus. very hard here to find any,decent mechanic for any vehicle. its all money, not professionalism..ive fitted a bigger turbo. to6.up from to4. . dyno,d at 170kw, 700nm.. no other mods.pity its hard to get parts or engines..the new version was common rail. never seen any..
you are going to heaven sir, thank you so much for this video
Very nice to see an actual pump in the metal so to speak and not drawings on a piece of paper, it makes much more sense now. Being the recent owner of a 200TDi I'm now more confident in giving the old girl slightly more pep. Some thing that comes up on Landy forums, and I'm not sure if it's as critical on other engines is exhaust temp, they recommend never touching the maximum fuel screw on the back of the case unless you have an exhaust temp gauge fitted. Seems the Landys aluminium heads loosen valve seat inserts if the exhaust gets too hot. Probably just a Land Rover design feature :-)
Cheers.
I have never heard of the valve seats coming away, you may get that problem when running too much boost pressure as that would raise the temp a lot, glad the video was of help to you
Slightly incorrect regards “will not effect off boost” by turning boost pin. Your starting point it deeper, so it will be richer off boost, wide open. Best thing to do is use the pin on its shallowest setting, but grind the boost side deeper, so you will only get more fuel once the turbo is in.
Thanks for sharing, the was great to watch, excellent video.👍
Not just early 300 tdi, they were on the last 300tdis too. You need to take the cap off as under tha cap there is a screw to adjust the pre boost. It makes a hell of a difference. Tutrn it inm 3/4 to one full turn and adjust to reduce any black smoke.
This is an incredibly helpful video. Thank you immensely for your detailed descriptions.
these were great diesel pumps the ones on japenese cars were by denso under a liensce from bosch and if anything were better after changing diesel filter on a toyota engine starts straight up .
Great tutorial. Solved pretty well my leaking problem and also boosted it a bit
Thanks for the feedback and glad it helped you
Excellent walk thru. Greatly appreciate the info.
Thanks for the feedback
Thank you for this video! My fiat uno td is making smoke on full pedal on high turbo pressure. I will ajust the lda spring with your instructions. Than you!
This is a great, easy to digest resource for guys jumping into tuning Bosch pumps for the first time, much easier than surfing hundreds of forum pages, can't wait for part 2! Do you plan on covering the Governor spring mod? I've been trying to educate myself on it before jumping into my pump.
Thank you very much for your awesome video Sir..👌👍
I've got one of these on VW LT35 Mk1 2.4D. Really helpful infos
Muito obrigado, vou fazer estes ajustes no meu MWM Sprint 4.07 TCA
Helpful video thanks. I was looking for the next video where you go inside. I'm trying to figure out what the lever on the side does. Mine was loose when I did the throttle shaft bush. I think the spindle is in a different position on the shaft. As it was so loose. I wanted to see and hear what it all does. Many thanks.
Excellent video
Thankyou for the advice. 👍
If you wind in the fuel screw much more than half a turn you can break the fuel controle mechanism spring and the pump will stop fuelling.
Thank you very much, very easy and esplicative
i actually have on of those pumps laying around as a spare. same parts number as well
But honestly please continue this series with a breakdown video of this pump
I've adjusted fuel & boost spring, then did the governor mod. It won't rev higher than ~1,500 then it'll choke and I get white smoke until it dies. Tried 1.54 & 1.45 timing on the gauge without much difference. It gets worse when warm and won't restart.
Have you checked all basic engine timing is correct firstly, this sounds like a timing issue sounds like pump is way retarded, have you done anything with the auto advance on pump
Very informative video.... Thank you very much for sharing
Thank you for your positive feedback and I hope it was of help to you or just interest
I have a VE pump on my volvo 240 diesel. When I rev my car in neutral it doesn't smoke, but when i drive it, it smokes like hell...black smoke. What should I do?
Well you haven’t said if you have done any modification to the engine or pump, also start at the air cleaner and hoses first make sure no air restrictions, also is this a turbo model or not
Hello,
I got a VE pump to replace one that broke on my engine. The original according to the pump spec sheet delivers less fuel accross the rpm range compared to the new pump. Would turning out the fuel screw likely make the new pump similar to the old one?
Its on a marine application where loads are high all the time and exhaust temperatures could be a concern.
Fuel screw only adjusts full load fuel not across the rpm range
@@Tractorkinguk so unless loading conditions are calling for additional fuel, it will only provide the minimum required to maintain rpm?
Thanks a lot for this video. I have a 12mm rotor pump, and ive played with the enrichment screw. The car is currently not running well, and exactly what you described happened when i went too far. Rev hanging, and slow to return to idle. However there is little smoke while revving, and a decent amount of smoke at idle. It feels underpowered and sluggish. I have yet to turn the star wheel, but i will try it soon. Any advice for the current synptoms im having? Thank you!
Shouldn’t be smoking when idle, possibly you need to advance the pump timing slightly to clear it up
@@Tractorkinguk damn, i was afraid youd say that. It is a prothe/hans pump. Im afraid ill never get it dialed in
Where the next video of taking apart and explaining about it?
This might be a noob question but isnt changing to a bigger plunger just the same as increasing fuel supply on the max power fuel screw? For exemple, a 10mm with increased fuel screw would deliver the same fuel as 11mm with stock fuel screw no? Thanks
I’m unsure of the exact numbers but yes it could push towards the larger element pump but obviously this is at zero cost
Nice job explaining man👍
hi, I see that you attached the pump from the car, so I got the idea to do it myself, but the direction of the ignition bothers me, the crankshaft and the pump rotate in the same direction in the Ursus, and in mine the pump is in the opposite direction from the crankshaft, the question is whether it can be done to combine, and the holes on the pump where the screws go all graze. Thank you for your reply.
These pumps are directional and on the model number plate are marked L or R for shaft rotation
@@Tractorkinguk and do you know which pump is on the right side of the car
Tyvm i have one of these pumps on my 82 isuzu i mark diesel
Thanks for the video Shane, I have an issue with my VE pump in my camper. I turned the boost pin for more fuel and by mistake turned the toothed wheel. There is now next to no power low in the rev range but when boost comes in she flys. Any ideas how to make her more driveable? Ist dangerous pulling away from junctions.
Hi there dose it black smoke at all either when bogged down at low revs or when pulling hard on boost
Also do you know which way you went with the toothed wheel
@@Tractorkinguk Thanks for the reply. No black smoke at all. I have followed your video and turn the wheel clockwise and the low end has improved.
Oh good to hear you have sorted it out, you may have turned it anti clockwise previously which loads the spring up more and then requires greater amount of boost before extra fuel is delivered, lowering the wheel reduces the tension and allows extra fuel at lower boost levels. Thanks for the comments and happy you gained something from the video
top video. just wondering if it will work for a 4jb1-tc in a Isuzu NPR turbo intercooler. ?
If it’s a VE pump yes it will
Very interesting 👍
Nice video thanks
What is the mechanical injection pump code?
Thanks for the video I'm going to wined my pump in a bit tomorrow. I have a Ford Transit 2.5di mk5 non turbo but it still has the boost valve thing you adjusted first on top of the pump, will playing with this help at all with the non turbo?
Don't know why it has one if it's only for boost?
Thank you.
I find it very hard to understand why you would have one if it’s non turbo, but this won’t make any difference for you other than the main screw
Really informative video, well explained, thank you. Do you have any advice on how to test and if necessary, replacing the diaphragm. Is it simply removing the retaining nut and washers to replace the diaphragm, or is there some kind of alignment necessary? Thanks again
Replacing the diaphragm is simple like you said just undo it and replace, no alignment etc, as for testing the diaphragm this would be quite difficult so if in doubt just replace it
Thanks! This was really helpful!
What happens if you adjust that top nut (under the cap)?
Thanks for the reply and I’m glad the video helped. The adjustment under the cap if tightened inwards this reduces the amount that the diaphragm can return when no turbo boost is made, this then allows the pump to deliver slightly higher fueling when no boost is been made which is really no advantage to power increases. Please share the video if possible as I’m trying to build a greater audience and if there’s any suggestions of videos people would like, if I can do them I will try my best to post one
Ive been looking for some one who knows a bit about these pumps for a couple of weeks ,,, I put a 200 tdi discovery engine into a defender , the engine has sat about for four years , long story short its in and runs as sweet as a nut , but it will never start on its own , a whif of either and its off no bother , no smoke , no crankcase breathing or the likes , runs sweet ,,, it will warm through and sit happy , but if you turn it off it will not restart on its own , hot or cold ,, but a whiff of either and off it goes , its like the excess diesel start device is not working , now the question is , can I lube something , or reach in and wiggle something to free up what ever is stuck , , ive run the engine up to temp a dozen times and I can kid myself its occasionally getting closer to starting on its own at first flick of the key , its really not there yet and has never started on its own ,,, one quarter second whif of fuel either and its off , even shutting it off at high reves and trying to get it to start half a second after it stops ,,, no way . Any tips would be appreciated ,, thanks in advance..
First I’d be fitting a new lift pump
@@Tractorkinguk brand new oem pump fitted ,,,
@@tomthompson7400 have you tried pumping lift pump up to pressure just before trying to start see if makes any difference
@@Tractorkinguk yep ,, everything good there , it just wont quite fire ,,, its so close , and sometimes its sort of coughing that once as if it will lift but nope , missing that last 5%
@@tomthompson7400 dose it drive ok power wise etc
So I have a question, I have a 83 gmc s15 wich has a 2.2 isusu in it. I've added a turbo and while turning the screw on the back I went as far as I could before I couldn't adjust my idle down anymore. After doing that I thought it would be a good idea to take the arm off the throttle shaft and adjust it back one notch for a little extra idle lowering ability. Now I've realized that won't work and I can't get the same power (fuel) I was before because it either revs up way to much or idles to low. When I get it perfect I have no exta power it's worse then stock. Idk if I messed something up while moving the throttle arm or what. Any advice helps, thanks.
What I would try first would be to back off the max fuel adjustment and set up your throttle linkage again as the adjustment screw affects the tension on the government springs attached to throttle control, it’s also possible that the spring has got jammed on underside of the throttle, try back off screw first and reset throttle if that don’t work I will put you a video on of how to remove the top and what’s inside
Greate video! Unfortunatelly I have problem with my pump.
There is custom boost pin, I have cranked spring tension about 4 clics (like 1/8 turn) and increased fuel ratio with 1/4 turn. After starting engine the pump is leaking a lot, the leak looks like from middle section around speed mechanism.
Anny idea whats wrong? Also I can't lower my revs anny more, the linkage is stopping me from doing it.
Appreciate anny help!
As for the revs you will have to obviously make some adjustments to your linkage to do this, fuel leaks are common on the throttle spindle shaft and the bush wears out also, both the bush and seal are available on eBay but this requires removal of the top lid and some springs, if your not confident don’t try do it yourself
Alright, I have replaced throttle spindle shaft oring witch main body seal, that was the cause of leaking issue. When putting it back together I have also rotated throttle lever two notches and that helped to get lower idle.
But there is new issue, it can be heard that engine work is more clanky, more metallic with a very snappy and sensitive reaction to throttle. There is also a bit of white smoke at startup and some revving.
My question and theory here is:
Is it possible that resealing pump restored factory performance and changed engine timing? The pump was regulated by previous owner probably "by ears" with leaking sympthoms ( i suppose) what caused setting more advanced timing to get normal work due to lower efficiency?
Firstly taking the top off and putting it back on can’t adjust timing, but there’s one thing to check that you may have removed that will effect running. If you removed inlet and return banjo fittings check that the return line has the bolt with smaller hole in it, this affects case pressure of the pump if wrong way round
Can a put that bomb in a Opel Frontera 2.5vm?
Will a pump from a 94 300tdi fit a 200tdi
I have white smoke until warm around 160-180. How can I correct that?
This could be a range of things, but injection pump wise it maybe be running slightly retarded, mark the pump up so you have a reference point and advance it slightly see if this clears it up
heres one unsure if my pump was messed with previously or not , but i recently fitted a boost pin and now have no power or smoke at all till turbo kicks in and even then theres only a little odd puff of smoke when on boost , would you say i need to adjust the star wheel?
Check adjustment on your pin firstly, you may have done it the wrong way test that first, if no better try adjust the star wheel down taking pressure off the spring, tray this half a turn at a time until your happy with the response, hope this helps
@@Tractorkinguk the pin is the new flat type upgraded boost pin only goes in one way , since fitting it is where ive had no low down power at all , seen another video that mentions turning the torx bit under the brass cap 1 turn
If you haven’t removed the pump or adjusted any pump timing you could try it, I’m unsure if the new pin would be different on low boost but it is possible and would be corrected by the torx screw, if still no better give it a bit more fuel on main fuel stop screw just give it half a turn in
After seeing this video I can’t understand why modern vehicles are so hard to understand like this is nothing 10 min job and it’s set to your preference
How do I fix smoking exhaust when cold?
Once I get to 160-170F temp it stops
Great ,very clest
Why does the tractor's fuel go backwards?
I don’t understand what you mean
@@Tractorkinguk nevermind
Sir i am a farmer and i have tractor new holland 50hp non turbo with bosch rotary ve pump with 3 cylinders...how can i increase the power of this pump without affecting its life
With it been a non turbo model just adjust the max fuel stop which is the same as in the video
@@Tractorkinguk what about change in nozle pressure and plunger size in pump
@@firstname3657 why not see what you can get out of your pump before you modify it, to be honest the extra fuel you can get out of it without modification will be plenty for a standard engine that hasn’t been turbocharged as you will struggle to burn it all, think simple need more wind for more coal
@@Tractorkinguk sir i am also going to turbocharge it...so please tell me in detail what modifications i can do in pump to gain atleast 10-15 hp because company is producing 65 hp from the same engine just witn turbo and pump nozle settings....Pump is bosch VE rotary 3 cylinder:--
0 460 423 080
VE/12F1250L1187
@@firstname3657 firstly you would be better fitting a pump with turbo boost compensation like the one in my video, most pumps like this were fitted with a 10mm plunger you can fit the 13mm plunger but will also require the pump head also
Please HELP Shane. My mechanic adjusted that bolt that’s sticking out and now my car won’t start. And when it finally starts I have lots of smoke and a very rough idle. How can I adjust it back to normal setting. Which way do I turn it?
First of all was it running fine no issues before this was done and also did the problem happen soon as it was done or a period of time after
@@Tractorkinguk before this was done it was running perfectly fine. And than after the mechanic turned the fuel screw I drove it home (20 minute drive). And I turned it off for about 1 hour. And than when I turned it on it started to rev very high (red line).
After that. I towed it back to the mechanic and he re adjusted the fuel screw again and he turned it on in front of me. I saw some white smoke coming from exhaust he told me it’s okay it will go away (This was yesterday).
Now this morning I start the car and it having a hard to to start and idles very rough. And lots of smoke.
@@mikeglovic7254 I would be checking the pump timing pal sounds like this may have moved, if your man had altered your pump timing also when first adjustment was done it kind of sounds like the pump timing is retarded
I live in a. NON Emissions state. So I'd turn the co..AR half and the diagram post also half,
On the non turbo V4 pump will simply adding 2 washers on the spring advance give it more power?
I rebuilt my V4 pump on my peugeot and it has new injector nozzels also with no added shims.
I have a donar pump and I'm considering adding its 2 washers as my boost ring upgrade will it work.