Man I wish I lived close to you. You know so much about so many different things. I wish I could come and learn a few things from you. I am a retired US Marine and I do machine work for friends and special agencies when they have an armorer related issues. your a great guy.
Sorry to hear of the loss of your shop boss. WE went thru that about a month ago we still have a hole in our heart . however we know in time there will be room to fit another one in. just enjoy the memories.
The shop is fine, he was talking about the shop boss AKA my dog or 4 legged shadow. Baily passed away this week and I am still tore up about it. He followed me everywhere for 16 years.
I went from stock injectors to a set of 6x16's made by John Link years ago on my 93. I slapped the injectors in, but kept the pump where I had it. It was undrivable at a stop sign. Just puke smoke and not hardly move. Went right home and adjusted the smoke screw and spun the star wheel up. Much better. Have not touched it for almost 15 years.
You are definitely very knowledgeable room the diesel engine Realm I am sure the information will be very helpful to people that work on upgrading their diesel engine
I'm totally impressed with your knowledge and understanding of this pump. I'm totally new to all the tuning aspects of the cummins. I've owned my 93 D250 for 18 years and other than general maintenance I just drive it. I've finally decided I'd like to wake it up a bit ! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the 1st gen community.
On a factory governor spring adjust the idle linkage and screw so that it is backed all the way down. Then turn the fuel screw in until it idles 800rpm. That is how I set them. If it tries to run away or wants to hang and not come back to idle quickly when you rev it up you may need to give it a turn or two on the idle screw and set it then. Next time I am working with a pump on the test stand I will get more into this.
👍👍 afternoon feller.. don't have ve pumped pick-up at the moment by I do have TJ skidder with a ve pumped 6BTA that I could apply this too ..thank u for the video and knowledge...have a good weekend 👍👍
Thank you i got that ve205 in i used your recommendation they sent that cheap ve205 with a modified power valve like what people buy along with a super short afc spring didnt bother with the rpm spring just pulled the governor back put all my own stuff in the afc that i modified using what you showed here i also did an overflow mod the 500.00 pump woke this up and then some thanks much pulls to 3000 easy no problem at all im thinking this motor was destined for an elevator or generator it used to max out around 16-1700rpm so the motor was never run very hard just has a bunch of wacky parts in it.
thank you for the video i see far too many kids all over the tube winding that star wheel all the way in ! where can you buy springs ? your explanation and experiment shows a lot of information thank you sorry for your loss i lost my chihuahua not long ago she was 22 and had just lost use of her legs. take care Steve
Interesting video mate. I got old GQ patrol with 2.8l diesel I think got around 6 pound boost. I want take it up to around 15 psi. As heard they take 18 without any work to motor. Would need to do yo the pump. Cheers Graham.
Thanks ok, ok, ok. Just letting you know there is only so much room in my head and I'm getting old so the seals are starting to leak. In essence, if I learn something new something old has to go and because the seals are leaking I lose twice as much as what's going in .🥺 thanks again for helping me making room on my hard drive .🤣😂🤣
Well it was all pre you tube but I discuss most of it here. ua-cam.com/video/JOHmGc1SerE/v-deo.html Also there is a dyno and drag race video of it as one of my first videos on the channel.
I have 4BT VE pump. Upgraded fuel pin/gov spring and bigger injectors HX30W super turbo. I am dealing with cronic low torque on take off, super bad mileage and high EGT's. My Boost on cruising is 18-19 psi. I increased the diaphram spring tension to max but when I back off the smoke screw I lose even more low end torque. This motor is a dog until I get some boost and it never used to be that way. I have been adjusting all aspects including fuel limiter (backing off and increasing but only one full turn either way) I cant seem to get the proper tune. I had this pump upgraded as a set with the new injectors so I dont have the stock fuel pin to play with. sure could use some help dialing this in.
One big factor that will kill torque is improper timing. Have you checked your pump timing? Did you change it from where it was when it was running better? Could also be poor injectors. The other thing that stands out to me is cruising boost is really high. My cruising boost on level ground at 70mph is usually single digits. If your boost is that high no load how much drive pressure do you have? It would be good to know your setup when it ran batter and what you have changed since then.
@@bcbloc02 I understand what you are going through, Brian. With the exception of Jet, whom we had for 14 years, all of our dogs have been rescues. We still have Clara and I miss all of them greatly.
And wear is the power screw set from the stock location. I understand the afc and fuel pin . But i was under the impression to not turn up the power screw more the 3 full turns
I always turn power screw in until it starts to runaway or until the idle is 850rpm. If it feels like the screw is getting stiff it is bottomed out and do not force it.
Thanks you for the video, very clear, easy to follow through. Just a quick question, my AFC cover has the smoke screw at the top, should I back it out completely or do you recommend specific settings for this one?
Does the fuel coming on at lower boost levels help clean it up? I would have thought you would want the fuel to come on a bit later. I'm trying to clean up my exhaust but haven't really played around with my pumo aside from turning the fuel screw out 1 rotation. It helped a bit but still smokes. Have more to play with but looking at all options.
No when Industrial Injection got one and gave it to the Chinese to copy I quit. It took years to get the ones I had made in Germany sold and even some of them got killed for various reasons. If you need more than 400rwhp long term you are better off doing an inline pump swap. Sure you loose the variable timing but the reliability is way better.
I've never been entirely impressed with Industrial or F1 Diesel... I'm not looking to be competitive, but to have a great running 2wd street pickup with great drivability like a (12.0 index). I'm guessing for that I'll need 600rwhp to reach. Hopefully I can stick with smaller compounds and a nitrous to get there... Thanks for your input!
@@jamartaylor6958 I made 480-490rwhp a bunch of times on a stock pump fuel only so i am sure on spray you could get 600. A big shot of spray like that will probably be easier to race with a single as it will behave more consistent. The twins are more fun to drive but a lot more weather sensitive to how they behave so they aren't as consistent.
@@bcbloc02 That's very respectable off of a stock pump. I'm guessing that a quality set of Injectors got you to that point. I remember playing around with a set of 4 holed Lucas P.O.D.s in 2004 and realized then how "cheap" power wasn't very efficient at all. Something didn't seem right when you can fog a freeway in a 320-330 ish rwhp pickup with an HX40. I eventually gave it up for a 2wd 94 Automatic CTD (long gone also) since I was having a heck of a time trying to consistently launch it at the drag strip without doing something stupid to the Getrag or clutch.
@@jamartaylor6958 yeah the Lucas injectors are very dirty. They were some 6x.018 that Columbus diesel service made for me way back when probably around 1998.
I can overhaul/reseal one of those pumps, but knowing how to tweak them in for the best results is fuzzy knowledge for me. I'm thinking that I should make sure the injectors are working right first. Two were replaced after metal shavings from broken plunger springs prevented them from closing all the way, the others have just over 420,000 miles on them. I'd love to replace them all with upgrades, but .... $$$
This might be a noob question but isnt changing to a bigger plunger just the same as increasing fuel supply on the max power fuel screw? For exemple, a 10mm with increased fuel screw would deliver the same fuel as 11mm with stock fuel screw no? Thanks
I assume you are talking about the plunger that controls the injection event itself. In the Cummins first gen world it is always a 12mm. There are currently no reliable larger options. As to the smaller applications for the ve pump like on Volkswagen then yes there are other sizers like 9 and 10mm. For a given control collar setting increasing the plunger size does increase fuel delivery. It isn’t linear though so a 9mm with maxed fuel screw may not make the fuel a 10mm can with the fuel screw backed off 5 turns which would usually be less than stock settings but stock settings can be anyplace depending on what the factory wanted.
where did you get your masters in mechanical engineering ? now i know why its so easy to follow everything you are doing. what injectors and turbo are the most consistent and reliable for a pump set up like this ? i was thinking about doing head studs a turbo and injectors along with some port work cause i have access to a flow bench. what would benefit more on a diesel for me to work 11:53 on the exhaust or intake more ? im sure the bench would give me a lot of info but i kinda want to just chop chop and run it cause im planning on getting another engine to really build thank you for giving a little piece of insight
I got it from Speed Scientific which is now called the the Speed School of Engineering. It is part of the University of Louisville. At the time it was the only Accredited Masters level Engineering school in the US. I believe there is one other now. Injectors and turbo are always dependent on power goals. The head work again depends on the turbo you will use because how the drive pressure runs greatly effects how the engine flows and the head can be manipulated various ways dependeing on if you have negative or positive deltaP across the cylinders.
@@bcbloc02 i just put my pump back in it runs great up until i give it a tiny bit of throttle it didnt run at all when i got it so im doing something right , it goes up to where i gave it throttle then stays at that rpm and wont come back down. i turned the power screw out to the point i need to give it throttle to start it any idea what i should look at im guessing you probably did a few hundred of these if not thousand its my first ve i used to do the 6.5 detroit diesel pumps those were horrible its why i got this .
i took the sleeve off that power screw and put it back in plus half a turn it started right up she had some response i was able to hit the throttle and it was responsive enough i was gonna go for a ride , anyway i let it idle a few minutes and out of nowhere it just took off on its own ? not sure why its doing any of this crazy stuff i got the truck to work on and learn but this is crazy
@@bcbloc02 it was running not great but ran the truck had multiple issues for one it sat a good 3 years doing nothing , when i got it it didnt go past 60mph (when it started ) with a good wind behind it i had a power steering pump leaking ,alternator screeching cause the front bearing was destroyed. front oil seal was leaking. pump was not responsive at all so i got everything i needed pulled the front apart discovered the killer dowl pin about to fall out , saved myself there so i put a tab in and punched around the pin to keep it from falling out . while i had the front apart i figured id put a governor spring in and do the power valve swap. the power valve they sent was about .006 too large and not move freely it would get stuck going in ! i trimmed the stock pin back and put that in when i put the governor spring in i backed the power screw out cut a line in the assembly first for all the lines on the screw nut assembly to line up when in place so i wouldn't wipe the fulcrum foot out. took the governor assembly out popped the throttle shaft out made sure to mark where it was indexed , took the old spring off put a new one on reassembled and the top hat assembly broke , fished the crap out ordered a new assembly from power diesel it was all identical. put it back together and it seemed ok turned the key and it fired right up idled beautiful i hit the throttle and it wouldn't idle back down it just stayed the same hi idle. so I took the banjo bolts off the afc bolt broke ! about this time i watched your video a few times. i had all the tools handy so i trimmed the ring inside the afc not too much made a afc hose from home depot stuff it works great put it together it fired right up idled a while cracked the throttle it was super responsive let it idle then out of the blue it started running away again ! i took the afc cover off and it seems like the pin was stuck it didnt want to move up or down. I had a custom pin i just put in and it seems its doing the same stuff.
Can a torn AFC diaphragm cause a no start? I bought a 93 D250 and been trying to diagnose and I think this is the problem but 2nd guessing myself while waiting on the part.
How you don't have 500k subs is beyond me, when some ex lawyer dunce that pays people to do his work so he can do burnouts has millions. I'll watch you any day of the week over the other channels, I have a feeling they couldn't connect jumper cables if need be.
@@jimb7922 Cleetus McFarless, the buyer of subs and talent that make him look like something he's not. His viewers are kids that are easily impressed and wouldn't know a glow plug from a spark plug.
@@genefogarty5395 Forgive my ignorance and thank you for kindly sharing that info ! I totally agree with you ! I've seen a few of his videos and I'm not a fan or subscriber ! Same for Whistlindiesel !
@@jimb7922 CANNOT stand that whistlindiesel kid!! He destroys what a working man would love to have and laughs about it. Another one that doesn't work on his own stuff and makes a mint off idiots that think he's cool. There's so many channels that offer actual education and preservation that have nowhere near the sub count they should have.
I just had the top end of my ve pump rebuilt and all the adjustments are out of whack. I can get it to start and not rev to the moon now but I can’t get it set right. Everyone keeps telling me I have to pull the whole pump and have it bench tested, is there a way to adjust all of it on the pickup? Mines a 93 w350 dually
I don’t know what you mean by can’t get it set right. Assuming nobody screwed up the lever in the pump the fuel screw pushes against taking the top off or putting it on any adjustments that would need made can be performed on the truck. I can only guess that the throttle lever likely is not clocked correctly as missing it a spline one way or the other will throw off the fuel curve. If it wasn’t marked before when it was taken apart then getting it back right is pretty much a trial and error affair.
@@beyondthen4621 I am near Frankfort Kentucky. I think that is about 5.5hrs away. For some that is a long way but I actually got a block I bored in the shop from Alabama now so it isn’t too far.
Well you should have very minimal fuel out the returns if the injectors are good like maybe a drip every few seconds when running. If you get nothing at all then it sounds like nothing is going into them. If they are new or worked on injectors they may have the pop pressure set too high or your injection pump maybe worn to the point it can't generate enough pressure to fire the injectors.
@@bcbloc02 they were new injectors but the old ones did flow steady stream of fuel back to tank,now with new injectors and rebuilt injection pump lots of black smoke and high egt,new turbo too
@@bcbloc02 they are supposed to be the same but I don’t have the old ones now ,I have timing all over the place,well injection pump timing to engine that is
Such a universal pump its used on small engines that don't make power to bigger displacement engines that can make big power its all in the adjustments/head sizes and small mods ultimately.
Can you be more specific? I don’t understand what you want to do. These pumps start at full fuel delivery and maximum retarded timing so they normally start great in the cold. My truck starts down into the minus teens without even being plugged in with very minimal cranking.
I would adjust it down so it just starts to blow smoke when you snap the throttle no load. If it is intercooled you can probably go pretty far if its non ic it won't be as much.
I haven't torn into my VE at all. Bone stock '90. I seem to recall something about breaking some lever if you removed the top incorrectly. Or is that when changing the governor spring?
Yes if you take the top off you need to take the fuel control screw out so you don’t damage the lever it pushes against when you put the top back on. You can do all the tuning I discussed without taking the top off though. I only had it off for illustrative purposes.
@@T3_travels even cut all the way back like mine is with my 7 by 011” injectors I can black out the sun if I Don’t drive softly. The stock afc lever and cone can not cut back fuel enough to clean the smoke. I will be doing a video on more mods to address that in the future.
@@T3_travels If your temp is up good and you are getting white/grey at low rpm either your timing is not correct or your injectors are likely bad. Have you had them pop tested?
@@erwin643 I meant with just a reground stock pin it made 630rwhp not some aftermarket pin. It had twin turbos a ported head intercooler and injectors plus one of my 14mm ve pumps.
@tomthompson7400 1 minute ago Ive been looking for some one who knows a bit about these pumps for a couple of weeks ,,, I put a 200 tdi discovery engine into a defender , the engine has sat about for four years , long story short its in and runs as sweet as a nut , but it will never start on its own , a whif of either and its off no bother , no smoke , no crankcase breathing or the likes , runs sweet ,,, it will warm through and sit happy , but if you turn it off it will not restart on its own , hot or cold ,, but a whiff of either and off it goes , its like the excess diesel start device is not working , now the question is , can I lube something , or reach in and wiggle something to free up what ever is stuck , , ive run the engine up to temp a dozen times and I can kid myself its occasionally getting closer to starting on its own at first flick of the key , its really not there yet and has never started on its own ,,, one quarter second whif of fuel either and its off , even shutting it off at high reves and trying to get it to start half a second after it stops ,,, no way . Any tips would be appreciated ,, thanks in advance..
@@tomthompson7400 it sounds like your plunger and barrel is worn causing it to bypass too much fuel and fail to make enough pressure to pop the injectors. On either it gets over the cranking speed and it’s enough to make it fire as leakage is directly related to cranking speed. If the pump is not turned up you may find giving the fuel screw a turn in might be enough to get it to hit. Otherwise you likely will need a pump head to fully cure the problem.
@@tomthompson7400 also you could possibly cheat it by lowering your injection pop pressure 500psi. I would not go below 2500psi though. If it can’t crack them that low it needs help.
@@bcbloc02 many thanks ,, it was just on the off chance there was a centrifugal over fuel device fitted , and it had stuck , what you say makes total sense , many thnks for the input .
Sorry for your loss. Dogs are better than most people.I hope there is a special place for them.
My condolences to you and your family on the passing of Baily. I know that pain as my best friend passed 3 months ago. Godspeed Baily!
Ditto my friend.
@@jdmccorful 2nd this. They're missed a LOT!
Sorry to hear you lost one too.
@@bcbloc02 So sorry Brian to hear about Baily the boss...
Man I wish I lived close to you. You know so much about so many different things. I wish I could come and learn a few things from you. I am a retired US Marine and I do machine work for friends and special agencies when they have an armorer related issues. your a great guy.
Sorry to hear of the loss of your shop boss. WE went thru that about a month ago we still have a hole in our heart . however we know in time there will be room to fit another one in. just enjoy the memories.
I didn't know he lost his shop.
When did he mention the loss? Did a storm take it out? I know he had some tilt issues from a storm.
@@FishFind3000 That is what I read from Terry Crow, above comment.
The shop is fine, he was talking about the shop boss AKA my dog or 4 legged shadow. Baily passed away this week and I am still tore up about it. He followed me everywhere for 16 years.
@@bcbloc02 Brian, So sorry to hear he is no longer with us. Baily was a great loyal friend that we will never forget.
Never cease to amaze me of your knowledge and knowing how things work fantastic video thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
I went from stock injectors to a set of 6x16's made by John Link years ago on my 93. I slapped the injectors in, but kept the pump where I had it. It was undrivable at a stop sign. Just puke smoke and not hardly move. Went right home and adjusted the smoke screw and spun the star wheel up. Much better. Have not touched it for almost 15 years.
Interesting pump knowledge for free power.
Thank you Brian.
Hope you're doing well.
Take care, Ed.
Thanks, you too!
You are definitely very knowledgeable room the diesel engine Realm I am sure the information will be very helpful to people that work on upgrading their diesel engine
"Cleaner 's Meaner" - absolutely love it, i'm going to be saying that to everyone who questions my LPG conversion.
Sorry to hear about Bailey,s passing, he was a very good inspector and he will be missed.
I'm totally impressed with your knowledge and understanding of this pump. I'm totally new to all the tuning aspects of the cummins. I've owned my 93 D250 for 18 years and other than general maintenance I just drive it. I've finally decided I'd like to wake it up a bit ! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the 1st gen community.
Nothing makes a bigger difference in their power than injectors.
I wish you would do more on this topic like the power screw to get the max from the ve pump .
On a factory governor spring adjust the idle linkage and screw so that it is backed all the way down. Then turn the fuel screw in until it idles 800rpm. That is how I set them. If it tries to run away or wants to hang and not come back to idle quickly when you rev it up you may need to give it a turn or two on the idle screw and set it then. Next time I am working with a pump on the test stand I will get more into this.
👍👍 afternoon feller.. don't have ve pumped pick-up at the moment by I do have TJ skidder with a ve pumped 6BTA that I could apply this too ..thank u for the video and knowledge...have a good weekend 👍👍
Perfect timing for this video to come out thankyou so much!!!
Oh Crap! Now I need a cast iron surface plate work bench! :)
It is how you do accurate work. :-)
Thank you i got that ve205 in i used your recommendation they sent that cheap ve205 with a modified power valve like what people buy along with a super short afc spring didnt bother with the rpm spring just pulled the governor back put all my own stuff in the afc that i modified using what you showed here i also did an overflow mod the 500.00 pump woke this up and then some thanks much pulls to 3000 easy no problem at all im thinking this motor was destined for an elevator or generator it used to max out around 16-1700rpm so the motor was never run very hard just has a bunch of wacky parts in it.
Glad you got it doing better.
Thanks Mr. Diesel.
thank you for the video i see far too many kids all over the tube winding that star wheel all the way in ! where can you buy springs ? your explanation and experiment shows a lot of information thank you sorry for your loss i lost my chihuahua not long ago she was 22 and had just lost use of her legs. take care Steve
Interesting video mate. I got old GQ patrol with 2.8l diesel I think got around 6 pound boost. I want take it up to around 15 psi. As heard they take 18 without any work to motor. Would need to do yo the pump. Cheers Graham.
Bailey would approve.
Sorry for the loss of the best shop dog around.
good video , i can't wait to get work on the 650hp ve build series
You going to spray it to 650 or try to do it fuel only?
Thank you. That was informative.
Thanks
ok, ok, ok. Just letting you know there is only so much room in my head and I'm getting old so the seals are starting to leak. In essence, if I learn something new something old has to go and because the seals are leaking I lose twice as much as what's going in .🥺
thanks again for helping me making room on my hard drive .🤣😂🤣
Thank you for this Brother. Excellent. Really appreciate it!
Loved this in depth AFC video!!! Where can one get one of those blue springs if we have the red one??? Thanks in advance
I remember many guys having issues with aftermarket pins grooving out, sticking and leaking.
Thanks Brian that was really informative I appreciate it!
600 hp and 1200 lb torque from a VE!!!????? You got my attention and my subscription. Where can I get more info on that build?
Well it was all pre you tube but I discuss most of it here. ua-cam.com/video/JOHmGc1SerE/v-deo.html
Also there is a dyno and drag race video of it as one of my first videos on the channel.
Another good tid-bit from the diesel master,,,,interesting (@@)!
I have 4BT VE pump. Upgraded fuel pin/gov spring and bigger injectors HX30W super turbo. I am dealing with cronic low torque on take off, super bad mileage and high EGT's. My Boost on cruising is 18-19 psi. I increased the diaphram spring tension to max but when I back off the smoke screw I lose even more low end torque. This motor is a dog until I get some boost and it never used to be that way. I have been adjusting all aspects including fuel limiter (backing off and increasing but only one full turn either way) I cant seem to get the proper tune. I had this pump upgraded as a set with the new injectors so I dont have the stock fuel pin to play with. sure could use some help dialing this in.
One big factor that will kill torque is improper timing. Have you checked your pump timing? Did you change it from where it was when it was running better? Could also be poor injectors. The other thing that stands out to me is cruising boost is really high. My cruising boost on level ground at 70mph is usually single digits. If your boost is that high no load how much drive pressure do you have? It would be good to know your setup when it ran batter and what you have changed since then.
I got the VP44 injector pump on my old 2001 Dodge, had to change it once! It was not a fun thing to do!!!
good video brian
I'm sure Bailey is looking down with approval. Really miss that guy.
Everytime I look over in his corner and he isn't there I cry. :-( Been a hard week.
@@bcbloc02 I understand what you are going through, Brian. With the exception of Jet, whom we had for 14 years, all of our dogs have been rescues. We still have Clara and I miss all of them greatly.
And wear is the power screw set from the stock location. I understand the afc and fuel pin . But i was under the impression to not turn up the power screw more the 3 full turns
I always turn power screw in until it starts to runaway or until the idle is 850rpm. If it feels like the screw is getting stiff it is bottomed out and do not force it.
Thanks you for the video, very clear, easy to follow through. Just a quick question, my AFC cover has the smoke screw at the top, should I back it out completely or do you recommend specific settings for this one?
If you have big injectors back it out completely
@@bcbloc02 Thanks for the quick response Brian, appreciate it!!! I'll do that and test how it goes. Again, thanks for your time
Does the fuel coming on at lower boost levels help clean it up? I would have thought you would want the fuel to come on a bit later. I'm trying to clean up my exhaust but haven't really played around with my pumo aside from turning the fuel screw out 1 rotation. It helped a bit but still smokes. Have more to play with but looking at all options.
No you want less fuel with less boost to be clean. Most of what I showed here is how to minimize the amount of fuel until you have more boost.
Thanks Brian! Are you still supplying 14mm Rotor Heads for some of us VE guys that don't want to make the P Pump leap?
No when Industrial Injection got one and gave it to the Chinese to copy I quit. It took years to get the ones I had made in Germany sold and even some of them got killed for various reasons. If you need more than 400rwhp long term you are better off doing an inline pump swap. Sure you loose the variable timing but the reliability is way better.
I've never been entirely impressed with Industrial or F1 Diesel... I'm not looking to be competitive, but to have a great running 2wd street pickup with great drivability like a (12.0 index). I'm guessing for that I'll need 600rwhp to reach. Hopefully I can stick with smaller compounds and a nitrous to get there... Thanks for your input!
@@jamartaylor6958 I made 480-490rwhp a bunch of times on a stock pump fuel only so i am sure on spray you could get 600. A big shot of spray like that will probably be easier to race with a single as it will behave more consistent. The twins are more fun to drive but a lot more weather sensitive to how they behave so they aren't as consistent.
@@bcbloc02 That's very respectable off of a stock pump. I'm guessing that a quality set of Injectors got you to that point. I remember playing around with a set of 4 holed Lucas P.O.D.s in 2004 and realized then how "cheap" power wasn't very efficient at all. Something didn't seem right when you can fog a freeway in a 320-330 ish rwhp pickup with an HX40. I eventually gave it up for a 2wd 94 Automatic CTD (long gone also) since I was having a heck of a time trying to consistently launch it at the drag strip without doing something stupid to the Getrag or clutch.
@@jamartaylor6958 yeah the Lucas injectors are very dirty. They were some 6x.018 that Columbus diesel service made for me way back when probably around 1998.
I can overhaul/reseal one of those pumps, but knowing how to tweak them in for the best results is fuzzy knowledge for me. I'm thinking that I should make sure the injectors are working right first. Two were replaced after metal shavings from broken plunger springs prevented them from closing all the way, the others have just over 420,000 miles on them. I'd love to replace them all with upgrades, but .... $$$
Well now you know more how to do it. :-)
I agree with Jones, how in the world does guy figure all this stuff out,
Cool video Brian. --Doozer
Sorry about your best friend. He will be truly missed
This might be a noob question but isnt changing to a bigger plunger just the same as increasing fuel supply on the max power fuel screw? For exemple, a 10mm with increased fuel screw would deliver the same fuel as 11mm with stock fuel screw no? Thanks
I assume you are talking about the plunger that controls the injection event itself. In the Cummins first gen world it is always a 12mm. There are currently no reliable larger options. As to the smaller applications for the ve pump like on Volkswagen then yes there are other sizers like 9 and 10mm. For a given control collar setting increasing the plunger size does increase fuel delivery. It isn’t linear though so a 9mm with maxed fuel screw may not make the fuel a 10mm can with the fuel screw backed off 5 turns which would usually be less than stock settings but stock settings can be anyplace depending on what the factory wanted.
where did you get your masters in mechanical engineering ? now i know why its so easy to follow everything you are doing. what injectors and turbo are the most consistent and reliable for a pump set up like this ? i was thinking about doing head studs a turbo and injectors along with some port work cause i have access to a flow bench. what would benefit more on a diesel for me to work 11:53 on the exhaust or intake more ? im sure the bench would give me a lot of info but i kinda want to just chop chop and run it cause im planning on getting another engine to really build thank you for giving a little piece of insight
I got it from Speed Scientific which is now called the the Speed School of Engineering. It is part of the University of Louisville. At the time it was the only Accredited Masters level Engineering school in the US. I believe there is one other now. Injectors and turbo are always dependent on power goals. The head work again depends on the turbo you will use because how the drive pressure runs greatly effects how the engine flows and the head can be manipulated various ways dependeing on if you have negative or positive deltaP across the cylinders.
@@bcbloc02 i just put my pump back in it runs great up until i give it a tiny bit of throttle it didnt run at all when i got it so im doing something right , it goes up to where i gave it throttle then stays at that rpm and wont come back down. i turned the power screw out to the point i need to give it throttle to start it any idea what i should look at im guessing you probably did a few hundred of these if not thousand its my first ve i used to do the 6.5 detroit diesel pumps those were horrible its why i got this .
i took the sleeve off that power screw and put it back in plus half a turn it started right up she had some response i was able to hit the throttle and it was responsive enough i was gonna go for a ride , anyway i let it idle a few minutes and out of nowhere it just took off on its own ? not sure why its doing any of this crazy stuff i got the truck to work on and learn but this is crazy
@@stevenbean9706 was this a run pump that just started acting up? Or what is the rest of the story?
@@bcbloc02 it was running not great but ran the truck had multiple issues for one it sat a good 3 years doing nothing , when i got it it didnt go past 60mph (when it started ) with a good wind behind it i had a power steering pump leaking ,alternator screeching cause the front bearing was destroyed. front oil seal was leaking. pump was not responsive at all so i got everything i needed pulled the front apart discovered the killer dowl pin about to fall out , saved myself there so i put a tab in and punched around the pin to keep it from falling out . while i had the front apart i figured id put a governor spring in and do the power valve swap. the power valve they sent was about .006 too large and not move freely it would get stuck going in ! i trimmed the stock pin back and put that in when i put the governor spring in i backed the power screw out cut a line in the assembly first for all the lines on the screw nut assembly to line up when in place so i wouldn't wipe the fulcrum foot out. took the governor assembly out popped the throttle shaft out made sure to mark where it was indexed , took the old spring off put a new one on reassembled and the top hat assembly broke , fished the crap out ordered a new assembly from power diesel it was all identical. put it back together and it seemed ok turned the key and it fired right up idled beautiful i hit the throttle and it wouldn't idle back down it just stayed the same hi idle. so I took the banjo bolts off the afc bolt broke ! about this time i watched your video a few times. i had all the tools handy so i trimmed the ring inside the afc not too much made a afc hose from home depot stuff it works great put it together it fired right up idled a while cracked the throttle it was super responsive let it idle then out of the blue it started running away again ! i took the afc cover off and it seems like the pin was stuck it didnt want to move up or down. I had a custom pin i just put in and it seems its doing the same stuff.
There is always a better way if you follow Bri. Thanks for your time and knowledge.
Bcbloc is the best
So you're saying a stiffer spring under the diaphragm is better??
For an application with much bigger than stock injectors it for sure is.
Loved it
Can a torn AFC diaphragm cause a no start? I bought a 93 D250 and been trying to diagnose and I think this is the problem but 2nd guessing myself while waiting on the part.
No. The AFC can only limit max fuel it never cuts it off.
@@bcbloc02 I was afraid of that. The diaphragm has a 1/4 tear in it. So I assumed it was not allowing enough fuel pressure to pop off the injectors.
@@Stu1-68 Are you sure your getting fuel at all ? FCS or Lift Pump would be my first guess !
How you don't have 500k subs is beyond me, when some ex lawyer dunce that pays people to do his work so he can do burnouts has millions. I'll watch you any day of the week over the other channels, I have a feeling they couldn't connect jumper cables if need be.
Humm ! I wish I knew who you're talking about ! I would be funny then !
@@jimb7922 Cleetus McFarless, the buyer of subs and talent that make him look like something he's not. His viewers are kids that are easily impressed and wouldn't know a glow plug from a spark plug.
@@genefogarty5395 Forgive my ignorance and thank you for kindly sharing that info ! I totally agree with you ! I've seen a few of his videos and I'm not a fan or subscriber ! Same for Whistlindiesel !
@@jimb7922 CANNOT stand that whistlindiesel kid!! He destroys what a working man would love to have and laughs about it. Another one that doesn't work on his own stuff and makes a mint off idiots that think he's cool. There's so many channels that offer actual education and preservation that have nowhere near the sub count they should have.
I just had the top end of my ve pump rebuilt and all the adjustments are out of whack. I can get it to start and not rev to the moon now but I can’t get it set right. Everyone keeps telling me I have to pull the whole pump and have it bench tested, is there a way to adjust all of it on the pickup? Mines a 93 w350 dually
I don’t know what you mean by can’t get it set right. Assuming nobody screwed up the lever in the pump the fuel screw pushes against taking the top off or putting it on any adjustments that would need made can be performed on the truck. I can only guess that the throttle lever likely is not clocked correctly as missing it a spline one way or the other will throw off the fuel curve. If it wasn’t marked before when it was taken apart then getting it back right is pretty much a trial and error affair.
Totally new to tuning these. Would this setup work with the stock injectors on a non intercooled 12v or would I need bigger injectors?
It will work just fine but you may find it’s slower to accelerate than you like with these settings.
Wear is your shop location? I need a good shop for my 89. I'm in Huntsville, Alabama.
@@beyondthen4621 I am near Frankfort Kentucky. I think that is about 5.5hrs away. For some that is a long way but I actually got a block I bored in the shop from Alabama now so it isn’t too far.
What would cause injections not to have any fuel return on injections,Bosch ve pump rebuilt new injectors ,4 cylinder case IH engine
Well you should have very minimal fuel out the returns if the injectors are good like maybe a drip every few seconds when running. If you get nothing at all then it sounds like nothing is going into them. If they are new or worked on injectors they may have the pop pressure set too high or your injection pump maybe worn to the point it can't generate enough pressure to fire the injectors.
@@bcbloc02 they were new injectors but the old ones did flow steady stream of fuel back to tank,now with new injectors and rebuilt injection pump lots of black smoke and high egt,new turbo too
@@billbooth4147 If they are the correct injectors and the turbo is the same model i would be suspicious injection timing is wrong.
@@bcbloc02 they are supposed to be the same but I don’t have the old ones now ,I have timing all over the place,well injection pump timing to engine that is
@@billbooth4147 what is your boost pressure?
Such a universal pump its used on small engines that don't make power to bigger displacement engines that can make big power its all in the adjustments/head sizes and small mods ultimately.
Help me out here how do I adjust the cold start on these
Can you be more specific? I don’t understand what you want to do. These pumps start at full fuel delivery and maximum retarded timing so they normally start great in the cold. My truck starts down into the minus teens without even being plugged in with very minimal cranking.
Do you rebuild ve pumps? Mine needs it and looking for someone to rebuild it.
I can reseal one but if the pumping unit itself is damaged all I can do is replace it. What issue is it having?
Where should i put my star wheel with stock injectors
I would adjust it down so it just starts to blow smoke when you snap the throttle no load. If it is intercooled you can probably go pretty far if its non ic it won't be as much.
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Very interesting
I haven't torn into my VE at all. Bone stock '90. I seem to recall something about breaking some lever if you removed the top incorrectly. Or is that when changing the governor spring?
Yes if you take the top off you need to take the fuel control screw out so you don’t damage the lever it pushes against when you put the top back on. You can do all the tuning I discussed without taking the top off though. I only had it off for illustrative purposes.
Where can i get the blue spring ?
Area diesel
Hey bud. Do you know how to test this without pulling the pump apart?
What are you trying to test?
@bcbloc02 if the settings on my starwheel is correct for the psi I'm running. Struggling to get a clean result... Good power but lots or smoke.
@@T3_travels even cut all the way back like mine is with my 7 by 011” injectors I can black out the sun if I Don’t drive softly. The stock afc lever and cone can not cut back fuel enough to clean the smoke. I will be doing a video on more mods to address that in the future.
@bcbloc02 thanks 👌 I can cope with black but I get some white/grey on low RPM. If it was only under full load It would be fine lol... 💨💨💨
@@T3_travels If your temp is up good and you are getting white/grey at low rpm either your timing is not correct or your injectors are likely bad. Have you had them pop tested?
Cleaner IS meaner, a SITE! GBWYall!
👍👍😎👍👍
Hiya Brian
33 is definitely right psi
Good video, but 630 HP from just grinding on a stock fuel pin (@11:05)? I say BS. You had to have done other things to it.
@@erwin643 I meant with just a reground stock pin it made 630rwhp not some aftermarket pin. It had twin turbos a ported head intercooler and injectors plus one of my 14mm ve pumps.
After you said Hi guys I was totally lost. Could have been speaking Greek for all I know.
First
nice
@tomthompson7400
1 minute ago
Ive been looking for some one who knows a bit about these pumps for a couple of weeks ,,, I put a 200 tdi discovery engine into a defender , the engine has sat about for four years , long story short its in and runs as sweet as a nut , but it will never start on its own , a whif of either and its off no bother , no smoke , no crankcase breathing or the likes , runs sweet ,,, it will warm through and sit happy , but if you turn it off it will not restart on its own , hot or cold ,, but a whiff of either and off it goes , its like the excess diesel start device is not working , now the question is , can I lube something , or reach in and wiggle something to free up what ever is stuck , , ive run the engine up to temp a dozen times and I can kid myself its occasionally getting closer to starting on its own at first flick of the key , its really not there yet and has never started on its own ,,, one quarter second whif of fuel either and its off , even shutting it off at high reves and trying to get it to start half a second after it stops ,,, no way . Any tips would be appreciated ,, thanks in advance..
@@tomthompson7400 it sounds like your plunger and barrel is worn causing it to bypass too much fuel and fail to make enough pressure to pop the injectors. On either it gets over the cranking speed and it’s enough to make it fire as leakage is directly related to cranking speed. If the pump is not turned up you may find giving the fuel screw a turn in might be enough to get it to hit. Otherwise you likely will need a pump head to fully cure the problem.
@@tomthompson7400 also you could possibly cheat it by lowering your injection pop pressure 500psi. I would not go below 2500psi though. If it can’t crack them that low it needs help.
@@bcbloc02 many thanks ,, it was just on the off chance there was a centrifugal over fuel device fitted , and it had stuck , what you say makes total sense , many thnks for the input .
@@bcbloc02 Ill just send the pump for a rebuild ,,, thanks again.