I literally just did this mod today and "Wow" what a difference. I got my 92 D250 in a trade a couple weeks ago. So, this diesel world is new to me. Awesome channel and definitely subscribed!!!!
If I may, I would recommend checking the cable travel by pushing the pedal all the way to the floor and checking to make sure the distance the lever moves is the same when pedal is bottomed out.
You've said that it increases the mechanical advantage twice, but it's actually doing the opposite. You are decreasing the mechanical advantage, the same effect as going from a 4.10 axle ratio to a 3.10
Hey guys I watch this video quite a while ago when you first brought it out but I want to thank you for something you recently had a Ron a slight run away with your truck cause the idle screw turned itself in because the gym not apparently got loose and you showed how are you loosened it and tightened it with a screwdriver I did the same thing and I had to turn my idol back up thank you for that knowledge this is six and a row jim saying thank you bye
I'll give you a quick run down on mine. I've done this, reclocked the lever on the shaft, which requires completely resetting the idle screw, turn the star wheel all the way down, add new governor spring so it will Rev and add a performance fuel pin. Turn the timing up on the pump. Major Gen 1 wake up!
Hello; in one of your tutorials you replace a plastic bushing for a metal (brass) one coming from the transmission linkage. can you please tell me the part number, ( was posted in the tutorial) so I can do that to my 1991 w250 also where is the tutorial for replacing the T.P.S. Thanks very much Tim, Your tutorials are great.
I'd like to see you do a dynamic timing advance video with a before and after opinion on power levels and response. I did one on my truck but along with a bunch of other mods so I don't know how much difference it made by itself. M&H has one available, or just a basic search for VE pump boost ring will get some search results.
@@trevorlee2484 Awesome! I get up to Logan a few times a year to see my friend Terry Hansen who also has a 1st gen addiction. I be up there as soon as I'm done painting my truck.
@@trevorlee2484 careful with those, i've heard from numerous people that they can increase the internal pump pressure to unsafe levels. same with just entirely disconnecting the KSB.
Good question! I was introduced to Cummins Turbo Diesels by my uncle about 15 years ago. He had a clean 98 12 valve 5 speed that he let me drive at a family reunion. Since that day I knew I would own one (or many) someday. It was fitting that my first cummins was a 98 12 valve 5-speed haha
its the sound they make for me, nothing sounds better then the 12valve cummins diesel wise, however they did it they did it, that sound will be in my life until the day im dead now.
@@decentgarage If that was a ext cab those are like the holy grail I regret selling my 98 12valve ext 4x4 dually if it was a 5 speed I would have kept it
I've been binge watching your videos the past few days and decided to try this one out on my 93 w250 4x4 Ex Cab I inherited from my Gramps last year. Fell in love with this truck when I was a little kid. And for obvious reasons I was in no rush to inherit it. We still call it Gramp's Truck to this day. It has 86k on it and I plan on keeping it pretty stock. I just ordered the fuel pin and 3200 gov spring from THD after watching your other video. Hoping to focus on fixing the "wandering" (slop) in the steering next. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! I love your content. Also save some crew cabs for the rest of us!
I would STRONGLY recommend a borgeson steering shaft (or clone) upgrade, it is quite simple to do, and not too expensive. I did a borgeson shaft, which cut down on steering wheel slop by about 40(ish)%. I then switched to crossover steering, which didn't necessarily effect slop as my joints were still good, but it did however greatly improve steering response, prevent bump steer and reduce feedback through the steering wheel. The remaining 60% of my slop is all in the steering gearbox, which (for our trucks) is extremely expensive, I had a spare Chevy box (also made by saginaw) and everything seems to match up perfectly, aside from the input shaft splines. After a little research, it appears borgeson sells a U-joint for the Chevy box that would allow it to be installed on one of our dodges. Be careful with some of the modifications on youtube, as they can have serious side effects on your engine and are made by people just trying to get more smoke without knowing what it is that they are messing with. especially the "dynamic timing spacers" for the injection pump. If you do this mod, make sure that your pedal still stops in the correct location, and that you aren't pulling the injection pump throttle lever past its normal stopping point, I ended up going back to the stock setting after doing this mod because my truck tried to do exactly that. A gov spring and fuel pin are a great starting point though, and will make the truck feel completely different. I'm sorry about your loss, you definitely got a gem from him though and I'm sure he'd be happy to know its getting some love and appreciation!
So I did this to my truck and it made it feel extremely more alive lol. But its seems super easy to over work the the throttle now. How far can I push the pedal because 1/2 way feels like full throttle did now
You are limited by your governor spring at this point. If you have a stock gov spring your pump will defuel at 2700 rpm no matter how hard you push the pedal. This mod with a 3200 or 3800 gov spring wake the truck up a ton
@@decentgarage I've wanted to get a denny t stage 2 or a m&h Inc stage 5 fuel pin and I've been debating the governer spring. How ever I'm concerned about reliability. Will one of thoes springs let me over rev the motor. It's a 727 with 3.07s axle gears on 35s I can only really go 70. (good thing because I like to go 85 😂) but this is my daily driver. And Id really hate to blow my truck up because I cant afford to fix something that major right now. My main concern is will the spring make it possible to damage anything important? And thanks for all your great videos and advice I really appreciate it because I don't know much about theses old Cummins
So a 3200 spring will create no risk of damaging anything. A 3800 you have to be careful though. With a 3800 you run the chance of blowing your head gasket so doing headstuds is recommended unless you can control yourself and keep your foot outta the pedal. In my experience no one has that type of self control 😂😂😂. For a spring and fuel pin go with the hungry diesel hands down. His is the best pin by far and he has amazing customer service. (And I don't get any kickbacks for recommending him haha)
Bro you need to reshoot or redo your audio on alot of your older video, they have so much good info. but it's impossible to obtain without reading all the subtitles. All the same can't wait to see your next mods!
Im actually looking to fix my automatic D250 as its noticable and has lost horsepower. 1992 AUTOMATIC Dodge Cummins D250 with 155000 original miles. What can i upgrade is my question ⁉️⁉️⁉️ I have replaced front suspension its level now. I have purchased all parts for when i change dowel pin including a new serp. Belt. Im also thinking of going with electric fans vs fan clutch, any thoughts??? And any info on any great websites is very much appreciated thank you all.
Hey it's me again. I left for work at about midnight and had the run home at about 2:00 in the morning. Come back out to try to start my truck and it's not turning over. Battery looks good and I have a quarter tank. I'm trying to figure out what's wrong and I have no clue
@@decentgarage I check the terminals and they don't look corroded or anything like that, I'm having some issues trying to get it started but it is turning over, just not starting. I'm going to take the battery to go get tested but that should be it. I'm just hoping my fuel gauge was not incorrect and I'm out of fuel
This is very rare that this happens but it can happen. Are you on Facebook? I can send you a post of how to fix this. I'd set it back to stock until then. I'm guessing your truck is automatic?
How will this affect the auto trans shifting with the geometry change on the throttle travel distance. Referring to transmissions reference to where the throttle is positioned. Hope that makes sense, Lol :)
As far as I am aware your shifting will be more affected by line pressure and kick down cable adjustment. I noticed no change in shifts after doing this mod. Others may chime in to agree or disagree.
Copy that. That was my concern. If there is better throttle response, then possibly less movement of the linkage and shift down cable. I would think manual would be no noticeable change. Thank you for your time and great videos.
My bad. I did not know you had the TPS delete. Was thinking yours was a manual. I was trying to figure out why you had all those cables with a manual setup, Lol Thanks again, may give this a try.
@@darrelldubree9658 Yeah this morning a re-read your comment and realized it had to do more with the tps. I do have a tps delete so I'm also curious to know how having a tps may be different, for better or worse. Thanks for the comments!
I have my first 2007 Ram mega cab Cummins 6.7 on the way from Idaho to Hawaii... I converted from Powerstrokes!!.😩..I possibly also trying to acquire a 1rst Gen to maybe flip but after watching your videos I might want to keep it...😄..Aloha 🤙🏽
The idle screw is a pain in the butt to get to but it's doable. It's on the side of the injection pump closest to the block. Just have to figure out how to unscrew it a tad to lower the idle
@@dickfitzwell9770 The answer to this question varies... First step is the idek screw. In your case the idek screw may not be able to bring down the idle enough. Next option is throttle indexing which can be a pain in the butt. The best option for a maxed pump is to have it put on a bench tester and have the gov spring length customized to acct for idle speed.
@@decentgarage i use a long skinny screwdrive on the inside flat of the nut and use a hammer to hit the top of screwdriver which pops the nut loose. Then use the screwdriver to back idle down. Snug the nut by a tap going the opposit way.
Haha, we are talking about two slightly different lever systems here. With a cheater pipe you are correct that the further away from the fulcrum point the easier it is to transmit force int he form of torque. However, in this system, the throttle cable is the limiting factor. The cable has a limited amount of travel available. Moving the peg closer to the fulcrum maximizes the available travel in the throttle cable. Make sense? Great question!
It is decreasing the mechanical advantage, it's allowing the throttle to be moved more with less input from the pedal so it seems quicker to rev. Since you are decreasing the mechanical advantage the pedal will be harder to push but probably not anything you'd be able to notice.
The black cover with the 4 screws you need to adjust that also in a video known as ve pump boost ringand pin adjustment , it defeats the factory emissions settings. For you guys that live in non emission states. Done on land rovers in Europe that also use the same BOSCH VE pumps.
I literally just did this mod today and "Wow" what a difference. I got my 92 D250 in a trade a couple weeks ago. So, this diesel world is new to me. Awesome channel and definitely subscribed!!!!
It's amazing how such a small tweak can have such a huge impact 👍
If I may, I would recommend checking the cable travel by pushing the pedal all the way to the floor and checking to make sure the distance the lever moves is the same when pedal is bottomed out.
Great point!
Thank you for all the videos! I did this mod right after I found this video and it helped my truck out enormously.
Glad I could help!
You've said that it increases the mechanical advantage twice, but it's actually doing the opposite. You are decreasing the mechanical advantage, the same effect as going from a 4.10 axle ratio to a 3.10
Hey guys I watch this video quite a while ago when you first brought it out but I want to thank you for something you recently had a Ron a slight run away with your truck cause the idle screw turned itself in because the gym not apparently got loose and you showed how are you loosened it and tightened it with a screwdriver I did the same thing and I had to turn my idol back up thank you for that knowledge this is six and a row jim saying thank you bye
I'll give you a quick run down on mine. I've done this, reclocked the lever on the shaft, which requires completely resetting the idle screw, turn the star wheel all the way down, add new governor spring so it will Rev and add a performance fuel pin. Turn the timing up on the pump. Major Gen 1 wake up!
Hi Tim!!!!!!!!!! You do EXCELLENT videos! Thanks!!!!!!!!!!! (engine looks really clean too) !!!
Thanks Wes!
Liked the video! The previous owner of my truck did this modification but for some reason the pedal has a tonnn of play in it. Any tips?
Yep, I have a video that has my red and white crew cab on it and it says full throttle on the picture. That will get you squared away
Hello; in one of your tutorials you replace a plastic bushing for a metal (brass) one coming from the transmission linkage. can you please tell me the part number, ( was posted in the tutorial) so I can do that to my 1991 w250
also where is the tutorial for replacing the T.P.S.
Thanks very much
Tim, Your tutorials are great.
Hmmm I dont recall what part you are referring to... Are you talking about the plunger in the fuel shutoff solenoid?
I'd like to see you do a dynamic timing advance video with a before and after opinion on power levels and response. I did one on my truck but along with a bunch of other mods so I don't know how much difference it made by itself. M&H has one available, or just a basic search for VE pump boost ring will get some search results.
That's actually been a mod on my to do list for over 5 years now and I just haven't gotten around to it. I'll do that!
@@decentgarage I'm up here in Logan area and would like to see your trucks one day.
@@trevorlee2484 Awesome! I get up to Logan a few times a year to see my friend Terry Hansen who also has a 1st gen addiction. I be up there as soon as I'm done painting my truck.
@@trevorlee2484 careful with those, i've heard from numerous people that they can increase the internal pump pressure to unsafe levels. same with just entirely disconnecting the KSB.
I have a question. Who introduced you to the Dodge Cummins? Or who was your inspiration to be so passionate about the Dodge Cummins?
Good question! I was introduced to Cummins Turbo Diesels by my uncle about 15 years ago. He had a clean 98 12 valve 5 speed that he let me drive at a family reunion. Since that day I knew I would own one (or many) someday. It was fitting that my first cummins was a 98 12 valve 5-speed haha
its the sound they make for me, nothing sounds better then the 12valve cummins diesel wise, however they did it they did it, that sound will be in my life until the day im dead now.
@@Sunde53 No better sound in the world!
@@decentgarage If that was a ext cab those are like the holy grail I regret selling my 98 12valve ext 4x4 dually if it was a 5 speed I would have kept it
@@bbtoyshop yep it was a quad cab short bed 5 speed
Hey Tim. Have you posted a segment on the star wheel ? Been looking. Thanks.
I have not. My go to setting for the star wheel is to bottom it out and then bring it up 2 full rotations
I've been binge watching your videos the past few days and decided to try this one out on my 93 w250 4x4 Ex Cab I inherited from my Gramps last year. Fell in love with this truck when I was a little kid. And for obvious reasons I was in no rush to inherit it. We still call it Gramp's Truck to this day. It has 86k on it and I plan on keeping it pretty stock. I just ordered the fuel pin and 3200 gov spring from THD after watching your other video. Hoping to focus on fixing the "wandering" (slop) in the steering next. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! I love your content. Also save some crew cabs for the rest of us!
Is it 2wd or 4wd?
I would STRONGLY recommend a borgeson steering shaft (or clone) upgrade, it is quite simple to do, and not too expensive. I did a borgeson shaft, which cut down on steering wheel slop by about 40(ish)%. I then switched to crossover steering, which didn't necessarily effect slop as my joints were still good, but it did however greatly improve steering response, prevent bump steer and reduce feedback through the steering wheel. The remaining 60% of my slop is all in the steering gearbox, which (for our trucks) is extremely expensive, I had a spare Chevy box (also made by saginaw) and everything seems to match up perfectly, aside from the input shaft splines. After a little research, it appears borgeson sells a U-joint for the Chevy box that would allow it to be installed on one of our dodges.
Be careful with some of the modifications on youtube, as they can have serious side effects on your engine and are made by people just trying to get more smoke without knowing what it is that they are messing with. especially the "dynamic timing spacers" for the injection pump. If you do this mod, make sure that your pedal still stops in the correct location, and that you aren't pulling the injection pump throttle lever past its normal stopping point, I ended up going back to the stock setting after doing this mod because my truck tried to do exactly that. A gov spring and fuel pin are a great starting point though, and will make the truck feel completely different.
I'm sorry about your loss, you definitely got a gem from him though and I'm sure he'd be happy to know its getting some love and appreciation!
also try adjusting the gearlash/play in the steering box, that helped mine a lot
So I did this to my truck and it made it feel extremely more alive lol. But its seems super easy to over work the the throttle now. How far can I push the pedal because 1/2 way feels like full throttle did now
You are limited by your governor spring at this point. If you have a stock gov spring your pump will defuel at 2700 rpm no matter how hard you push the pedal. This mod with a 3200 or 3800 gov spring wake the truck up a ton
@@decentgarage I've wanted to get a denny t stage 2 or a m&h Inc stage 5 fuel pin and I've been debating the governer spring. How ever I'm concerned about reliability. Will one of thoes springs let me over rev the motor. It's a 727 with 3.07s axle gears on 35s I can only really go 70. (good thing because I like to go 85 😂) but this is my daily driver. And Id really hate to blow my truck up because I cant afford to fix something that major right now. My main concern is will the spring make it possible to damage anything important? And thanks for all your great videos and advice I really appreciate it because I don't know much about theses old Cummins
So a 3200 spring will create no risk of damaging anything. A 3800 you have to be careful though. With a 3800 you run the chance of blowing your head gasket so doing headstuds is recommended unless you can control yourself and keep your foot outta the pedal. In my experience no one has that type of self control 😂😂😂.
For a spring and fuel pin go with the hungry diesel hands down. His is the best pin by far and he has amazing customer service. (And I don't get any kickbacks for recommending him haha)
@@decentgarage did you mean hungry diesel?
@@jonathanlloyd2371 yes sorry. Stupid autocorrect. The hungry diesel. Also use code decent1stgen for 10% off on his site.
Bro you need to reshoot or redo your audio on alot of your older video, they have so much good info. but it's impossible to obtain without reading all the subtitles. All the same can't wait to see your next mods!
Sorry man. Yeah, over a year in now and I am still trying to get the audio under control.
@@decentgarage man most of your new content is pretty great, just reduce the older ones audio and re-release it.
Love this guy! Nice trucks and video's!!!!!!!
Thanks again Wess!
Im actually looking to fix my automatic D250 as its noticable and has lost horsepower.
1992 AUTOMATIC Dodge Cummins D250 with 155000 original miles.
What can i upgrade is my question ⁉️⁉️⁉️
I have replaced front suspension its level now.
I have purchased all parts for when i change dowel pin including a new serp. Belt.
Im also thinking of going with electric fans vs fan clutch, any thoughts???
And any info on any great websites is very much appreciated thank you all.
This might be a stupid question, but this mod won’t raise the chances of the motor running away right?
Hey it's me again. I left for work at about midnight and had the run home at about 2:00 in the morning. Come back out to try to start my truck and it's not turning over. Battery looks good and I have a quarter tank. I'm trying to figure out what's wrong and I have no clue
Does it do anything? Click? My first move would be clean the battery terminals and put them back on nice and tight
@@decentgarage I check the terminals and they don't look corroded or anything like that, I'm having some issues trying to get it started but it is turning over, just not starting. I'm going to take the battery to go get tested but that should be it. I'm just hoping my fuel gauge was not incorrect and I'm out of fuel
@@Boobienoobie147 if it's turning over it sounds like a fuel issue. Either out of fuel or faulty fuel shutoff solenoid.
Fuel shutoff solenoid
Ok so after doing this my truck started surging a lot, and wont go past 30mph what could be causing that?
This is very rare that this happens but it can happen. Are you on Facebook? I can send you a post of how to fix this. I'd set it back to stock until then. I'm guessing your truck is automatic?
@@decentgarage Yes and yes. Is it Decent Garage?
@@youngn9na92 yes, you can find me there. Dm me there and I'll get you the link
Here is a link to a throttle connection rod if yours is broken:
Throttle connecting rod - amzn.to/2QJQwdG
Hey what if I'm missing those first two springs that you disconnected ?
Yeah, I second that. Springs on mine are MIA as well. Pros / cons anyone?
How will this affect the auto trans shifting with the geometry change on the throttle travel distance. Referring to transmissions reference to where the throttle is positioned. Hope that makes sense, Lol :)
As far as I am aware your shifting will be more affected by line pressure and kick down cable adjustment. I noticed no change in shifts after doing this mod. Others may chime in to agree or disagree.
Copy that. That was my concern. If there is better throttle response, then possibly less movement of the linkage and shift down cable. I would think manual would be no noticeable change. Thank you for your time and great videos.
My bad. I did not know you had the TPS delete. Was thinking yours was a manual. I was trying to figure out why you had all those cables with a manual setup, Lol Thanks again, may give this a try.
@@darrelldubree9658 Yeah this morning a re-read your comment and realized it had to do more with the tps. I do have a tps delete so I'm also curious to know how having a tps may be different, for better or worse. Thanks for the comments!
it dose nothing as this mod dose nothing. all this dose is make the fuel pedel under your foot move less so would not change the shift points
I have my first 2007 Ram mega cab Cummins 6.7 on the way from Idaho to Hawaii... I converted from Powerstrokes!!.😩..I possibly also trying to acquire a 1rst Gen to maybe flip but after watching your videos I might want to keep it...😄..Aloha 🤙🏽
Nice! Did you buy your 07 from Dave Smith?
@@decentgarage Actually a dealership, Goode Mazda/Volkswagen out of Twin Falls.
Your engine is so damn clean this took me about 30😂
Haha, sometimes I feel like my engine is a mess 😅
1st gens are so simple👍
How do you turn the idle down on these ve’s
The idle screw is a pain in the butt to get to but it's doable. It's on the side of the injection pump closest to the block. Just have to figure out how to unscrew it a tad to lower the idle
Decent Garage I’ve got my timing turned up and the pumps maxed out I’m pretty sure can the idle still go down?
@@dickfitzwell9770 The answer to this question varies... First step is the idek screw. In your case the idek screw may not be able to bring down the idle enough. Next option is throttle indexing which can be a pain in the butt. The best option for a maxed pump is to have it put on a bench tester and have the gov spring length customized to acct for idle speed.
@@decentgarage i use a long skinny screwdrive on the inside flat of the nut and use a hammer to hit the top of screwdriver which pops the nut loose. Then use the screwdriver to back idle down. Snug the nut by a tap going the opposit way.
Life saver
Glad it was helpful!
mine never had the black box and its an automatic
Must be an 89-90?
🔥🇺🇸
mune just falls flat when you punch it like it runs out of fuel
Sorry for my cheater pipe mentality but it seems like you are decreasing the mechanical advantage when the rod is moved in on the fulcrum.
Haha, we are talking about two slightly different lever systems here. With a cheater pipe you are correct that the further away from the fulcrum point the easier it is to transmit force int he form of torque. However, in this system, the throttle cable is the limiting factor. The cable has a limited amount of travel available. Moving the peg closer to the fulcrum maximizes the available travel in the throttle cable. Make sense? Great question!
It is decreasing the mechanical advantage, it's allowing the throttle to be moved more with less input from the pedal so it seems quicker to rev. Since you are decreasing the mechanical advantage the pedal will be harder to push but probably not anything you'd be able to notice.
The black cover with the 4 screws you need to adjust that also in a video known as ve pump boost ringand pin adjustment , it defeats the factory emissions settings. For you guys that live in non emission states. Done on land rovers in Europe that also use the same BOSCH VE pumps.