How to tune Bosch VE Boost Comp Pump: Rd28 Patrol
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- Опубліковано 14 тра 2024
- Hope everyone likes this video. like subscribe and comment
THIS IS WITH AN 11MM PLUNGER
Intro: (0:00)
What I've Been Doing: (0:28)
Background Information: (0:53)
Getting the Engine Running: (2:31)
EGT Gauge: (4:18)
Over fueling: (4:51)
What We're Aiming For: (5:50)
How the Boost Compensator Works: (6:51)
Observing How the Engine is Running: (10:55)
Analyzing the Soot: (12:42)
The Copper Shim & Boost Ring: (13:49)
Observing the Changes: (14:20)
Fuel pin & Spring Preload: (14:48)
Observing the Changes 2: (15:57)
Observing the Changes 3: (17:34)
The Fuel Screw!: (19:01)
How Much Soot?: (20:43)
DISCLAIMER: (21:35)
Outro: (21:58) - Авто та транспорт
Mate you're a really great teacher. You taught in a really practical way so people understand what's really happening and even provided a practical method for seeing those changes in real time. Love your work
cheers mate, glad you enjoyed the video!
Very well done. You explained things in a way that it was easy to follow. Thank you.
Very informative and super easy to understand for a gas mechanic. Cheers
As a old 1998 GU Rd28ti owner I'd like to say the following...you are doing a top job with your content, well done and thanks.🍻
this was an awesome video. probably the most info ive learnt about how a gu boost comp pump works!
Really good video ! Explains the working of the boost compensator perfectly
I liked the video but I believe more explanation should be give regarding the Conveyor Pin & how to control the conveyor pin , fuel pin & fuel set screw & how they interact with the boost spring tensioning nut .. These are the 4 variables to get ones mind around .. But when you understand the function of each of them we can understand how they interact with clarity ..
Top to bottom items which control fuel ..
1. The fuel set screw sets the => Maximum Diaphragm Travel sets the Cam Slope to increase fuel in the mix when boost is increased as it compresses the range of the of the diaphragm by increasing spring tension called preload .. By increasing compression of the spring it leans out faster .. If you have a waste gate set at a lower boost this is good to know because you will need to compress the spring .. This is opposite of a high boost / high efficiency turbo because you will need to degrease the spring pressure to get more fuel for the top end ..
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How I would initially set up the fuel pump when we have a turbo change ..
1. Don't change anything .. Start the vehicle & run up the RPM to 1,200 - 1,500 rpm to examine when it becomes the sootiest .. Then run it up to high RPM to examine what RPM the grey smoke occurs or disappears ..
2. Most people are going to replace their old factory turbo with a higher boost turbo .. The higher boost will make the lower RPM a lot more sooty .. Mark the diaphragm as shown .. We can see from the video that he turned the diaphragm clockwise => + -
That was brilliant mate, awesome explanation and detail,
Cheers
Rob
Excellent video man, really helped me with tuning my mitsi 4m40
Great video dude! Solid work!
perfect info thankyou!!!
The clearest and most informative vid I've come across regarding VE pump adjustments. Cheers matey.
Totally agree
Thanks for a helpful and informative video.
Great video mate, very well done 👍🏼
Bloody excellent well put video mate cheers
Awesome video mate very helpful thank you!!!
Nice! Looks like you have some diesel Yotas! Thanks for the VE pump tuning help!
Wow, this is the best video I've ever seen on this subject. Too bad us Umericans can't make a more explanative video like this.
Go figure. You guys invented Mad Max!
This doesn't just help Patrol owners man. My Disco and my OKA both have Bosch VE pumps. I thought I knew a lot about them but now I know a lot more. Thanks mate, very informative vid.
No worries mate glad its useful knowledge
Hey bro cool video love the detail you have put into it
Dirty thumbs up 👍
Great and informative video!
Just came across this. It’ll be a great help with my boat with a 4.2 vm motori Mercruiser in it.
Top info, Cheers.
Hey fella great vid to show us how we can get good results in a plain and simple way, i have a VE on my 6BT in my ftruck and it is all i need.This is still applicable to my engine this info. I have under 300 ponies & 860 ftlb/tq which i can use to get me out of trouble or into sometimes .
Excellent video!
Great video man
legendary video
Great explanation. I am tuning one right now. Soot is a great way to check how it's going. In the end you can ease out a bit. I guess max torque comes just before the soot starts.
Max torque would be grey soot. Soon as the soot gets dark black it's just overfueling and you are wasting fuel for relatively no power gain
Thank you very much for this video, very good job, i will try to manage my fuel pump becouse now i have problem when i go to the hill it has no power or weak power. I need more RPM. I also not have blac smoke so i learned a lot whit this video :) Thanks
Nice video mate!
Hi, great video. Did you consider to change the governor spring ? I think it will help you.
Legend
If you preload the spring by bringing the boost ring up means the engine is going to get less fuel per pound of boost when the turbo is spooling. This will result in more turbo lag no?
15:58 what a change in exhaust tone, much deeper... So throaty
yep sound great. always fun to shatter the ears of boomers sitting out the front of a café.
Great video mate,,,, main fuel screw,,,, screw clockwise to add fuel yeah
yep clockwise for more fuel
With the 89-93 Dodge trucks that use this same pump we generally put the fuel pin all the way Up and then turn the Star Wheel up until it is flush with the threaded shaft and then turn it back down 2 turns or so.
will depend on the car, these little 2.8's tend to poo their pants if you throw all the fuel you can at it. those dodge trucks have bigger plungers i believe too, there's differential factors for each pump paired with each engine.
I have a LD28 with aftermarket turbo. Where can I get a boost compensator?
Well Old mate, I don't have a Nissan but the theory holds true for me 80 series too I would think. A non smoking truck can make incredible power because I've seen it. Nissans are well known for smoking though, and you've done a good job cleaning it up, By the way I wish my Turbo sounded like that out the back, even with a 3" exhaust mine is near muted. I can hear the Turbo screaming inside the cab from under the bonnet more than outside. Lastly so few people know about tuning these things, even the diesel specialist up here in N.Q. has no bluddy idea, he's good at reading a book on standard setup & that's it.
Cheers mate, that is what happens alot of the time. People will go off a standard set by the factory or what has worked for them in the past, and apply that to everything they do from there forth. I'm constantly making adjustments to my pump to see if I can get the tune any cleaner and more liberal power wise. Hopefully Il get access to a dyno some time to see if I can visibly show how the fueling changes power delivery.
Swagelok PSV on the intercooler hose?
Spotted the Cameron overalls in another vid. Must be a valve guy?
Nice video dude 👍
Yea mate im a valve tec.
i was using that swagelock psv as a little project to try and get quicker boost. Needs more R & D though
Gostei muito. Foi a fonte mais razoavelmente entendível que tive até agora. E sua abordagem não é difícil de entender, mesmo estando em outro idioma. Fiz questão de postar em pt-br, para que saiba de onde comunico. S10 2000 MWM 2.8.
obrigado meu amigo, quando você assistiu ao vídeo você pode optar por adicionar legendas e ante-traduzir para o português? as legendas em inglês geradas automaticamente são bastante exatas.
Got the GQ pump on my GU 2.8 and I'm looking forward to throw a VGT next year along with a 12mm head on my pump for higher pressure. Will use this video as a guide when tunning comes to play. What turbo was your GU using when this was filmed?
A standard size gt1752s (factory eti turbo) but it was an aftermarket manufactured one with a billet compressor wheel. Definitely reccomend a bigger turbo, id easily be running mine 10% above its efficiency range.
Awesome video mate! What are your suggestion to reduce off boost soot? It idles fairly clean and everything cleans up nicely at full boost but that initial transition from 0 to say 15 psi is pretty bad according to my mates who have been driving behind. I guess that initial overfuelling is needed to get the turbo going but how can I reduce that a little bit?
Yea mate, so with no boost your max fuel is going to be only determined by the fuel screw. Turning the fuel screw out will clean up the no boost fuel but will mess with your in boost setting. Id say pull the fuel screw out 1/8 of a turn and rotate the fuel pin 90° more agressive to counteract the pulled fuel. Let us know how you go!
Very nice video mate! I'd watched several of this kind but yours is definitely the best one. Got a question, I have a Pajero 2005 running an 4M40 2.8 with fuel consumption (around 16lts/100km), was wondering if following this process inverted would help me gain some KMS back. If not, any tip to improve fuel economy?
If your boost comp has been tuned to the engine then all you need to do is turn the fuel screw out. Im not too sure how much improvment you will see but give it a go and report back
@@ebayenthusiast42 hey mate.. reporting back on this one. I Turned the fuel screw out like 1/2 a turn, not much improvement lost power instead lol. I found a vacuum leak causing issues with 4x4 engaging by itself, fixed that. While messing with the AFC I found the boost pin is stuck at the bottom, the little governor pin is not getting back in completely and I guess this could the issue. Let me know what are your thoughts about it. I don't want to mess with this too much. Thanks a lot for the time and tips given
@@orves2682 first off 1/2 a turn is a huge change you normally want to do 1/8th of a turn incriments at a time. Id say youv pulled nearly all its fuel out now so its running lean and making no power.
As for your pump, you should be able to take the fuel pin out. You may have to use a small flathead screwdriver to push the little conveyor pin into its port to pull the fuel pin up. If the conveyor pin wint go in fully it might be seized or the stack height of the reverse lever and throttle is wrong. Were you able to pull the fuel pin and diaphram up and out or were the locked in by the conveyor pin?
I’ve just gone in 1/8 increments on the fuel screw and backed the idle screw down until I got a puff of soot on take off under load and the rpm sits around 550-600 nice and steady. Don’t really understand it the comp bit to much but I’ve never touched it yet. Gu td42
hey mate, if your chasing more power try 1/8th of a turn on the fuel screw and wind the boost ring up 1 full rotation. just be careful as every time you wind up the fuel screw the idle jumps up.
Nice vid.
Where can I get a mechanical pump for the 1kz te hilux? Having lots of issues with the edc pump.
its cheapest to buy them when they pop up on Facebook market place. the best option is to cop one off a car being parted out but all auto wreckers these days absolutely fleece you for 2nd hand parts
Thank you. This a very good piece of information. I finally could see how the FIP can be tunnable. How can I learn some more about electronic VE Bosch pump? Can you recommend some "reading"?
Which pump mate? The one off the rd28 Eti?
Greate video, probably the best one on UA-cam about tuning ve pump!
I have question, after mounting intercooler to 1.9td aaz the spool is building very slow.. Turbo gauge is moving up around 3000rpm or 3/4 of throttle position up to 1bar. Near low load or 1/2/3 gears under 2500rpm there is almost no boost. Car is laggy and fuel mileage is poor.
In Your opinion, what should be adjusted to fix this throttle response?
Now that you have fit a big I intercooler you can throw more fuel at it. Cooler exhaust temps mean slower exhaust gas velocity as the thermal expansion factor is less. I'd suggest a bit more fuel on your fuel screw and maby wind some tension off the spring, this will hopefully cause a big bump in fuel as you cross into boost to get the turbo jump started.
@@ebayenthusiast42 It's not so big IC. Fitted from passat b5/audi A4 bumper cooler but thanks for the hint. I will try it :)
@ebayenthusiast422 Alright, I have found the issue. Somehow whole fuel pin rotated to less agressive slope. After turning it the car is much more responsive. Also noticed that my smoke screw is fully turned in, I will probably start ful tuning cycle according to your video, Im not satisfied with fuel consumpion with current performance.
❤
Just started the tuning process but on a 97 GQ. When it comes to the boost compensator and fuel delivery on boost, could you feel the engine run lean or is it unnoticeable? Also do you have an egr block installed? Kinda concerned about my top end delivery, I've clocked the diaphragm to give me more fuel on and off boost but I've gone from 10 to around 13 psi so will I need to wind up the boost ring?
Id say yes you can tell the engine is running lean. All that happens is it makes no power. When i first wound my fuel screw up while camping i was suddenly able to spin the 35s in 1st gear
As for your gq, i highly recommend either deleting or blocking the EGR all they do is muck up your intake with carbon. When you add fuel youl ramp up egt heat which in turn increases exhaust gas velocity. This spins your turbo faster so it will boost a bit harder. Youl probably find 14 or so psi to be the max you can make since your GQ will have the 9mm plunger in the pump. Also do consider hotter EGT's mean hotter turbo and hotter intake temps. If yours is non intercooled it may be worth considering a top mount intercooler.
@@ebayenthusiast42 I have been fiddling the past week with it, ended up blocking EGR and got it running nice on 14. I do 100% need a cooler, It's on the to do list. Have a 3", EGR block, and fuel screw up i'd say 1/6th of a turn on 33's with 14 pound. It runs stupidly cool for what it's going through currently lol went 4x4ing up a mountain for 8 hours, i'd say 6 and 1/2 were driving and did not go easy.
@@christopherjames6944 have you got an EGT gauge? if you barely making any smoke it may be worth putting some more fuel in just to see if you feel or see any difference. it will be hard to gauge past the placebo so maby do a few timed 4th gear pulls and time how long it takes to get from 1500 to 3000rpm. from my experience you wont see much of a gain in power that outweighs the increase in fuel consumption.
Top tier viewing. I've got a 1.9tdi with a mechanical pump in my 83 vw t3 van, really nice to hear someone talk about what's actually happening with each adjustment.
Out of interest, which EGT gauge did you go for?
i used the saas EGT gauge in my rig. things pretty good quality. its down to what you prefer for a gauge face. i like the old school look of an analogue gauge with a needle. i wanted a VDO gauge but unfortunately id have to take out a second mortgage on the house to afford one.
@ebay enthusiast42 thanks buddy, I ended up buying one from a local supplier they did me a good deal on egt, rpm and boost.
Can the VE Pump adjustments to time it be made while the engine in running? So i can phycically move the pump up or down on the motor while its running to try get it sound and run better or has the motor got to be turned off each time the setting made??
yea mate they can be made running. you just have to make sure you don't loosen the nuts too much or it will move too easily. i just cracked them loose (small yank on a spanner tight) and knocked the pump back and forward with a rubber mallet.
@@ebayenthusiast42 got ya. Yeah it worked. Found out today it’s not the pump out of tune causing the smoke but blowby and probably a cracked piston or rings so a full rebuild next. The joys of motors.
it's more tension in the spring is a good effect? thank you
More tension on the spring slows down how fast the max fuel addition point is achieved
Talk the talk no dingo 😀
Hola me gustaría saber cómo puedo hacer que el turbo silbe de esa manera, tengo un Mitsubishi montero 2.8 pero yo no oigo silbar el turbo cuando conduzco.
Turbo is stock? Sounds really nice
yes stock turbo. they sound good with ha 3" exhaust because they are so small they just spool to the moon.
Does this applies for this rd28eti as well?
Afraid not mate, the RD28eti uses an electronically governed pump. The only way to tune them if with a steinbauer/performance module that wires into the pump.
just curious on what you rev yours to.
Mine seems to die down on power above 3500rpm so I usually shift before that. This may be due to timing the pump by ear and not setting it with a dial indicator. As well as that my eggs start to shoot up in high rpm so I will wait till I get my top mount intercooler fully sorted and then see if that helps at all.
I have a 93 patrol y60 Rd28t
Do I have the same pump?
you will have the 9mm plunger, meaning your max boost and power will top out at about 12-14psi on the stock turbo
@@ebayenthusiast42 would a y61 pump fit on mine?
My engine has 91k km, what power mods i can make without blowing the gasket or other things?
@@neamtialin the headgasket should hold more power than the 9mm pump will make providing you dont overheat it. cooling mods are suggested before any power mods. 3" exhaust and an EGT gauge are the starting mods of these engines. you have the same mechanical pump you will just need to fit the 11mm plunger to it.
@@ebayenthusiast42 many thanks!
I have the pipe connection for the 6th cylinder cooling mod.
I'm trying to figure out a way to install it without removing the engine head.
EGT and 3" exhaust are in the box.
Hello, could you help me? I cannot remove the conical piece that goes along with the membrane in a 1999 Mitsubishi Montero. It is possible to remove the membrane nut and access the inside of the area to unclog the cone, the plunger, and raise it. up to restore order, the car works perfectly in low and high speeds, perhaps to recover when changing gears and going up, it's a little bit missing but the car works perfectly, it's great. I bought it recently and now I wanted to readjust the diesel injection, I can't, you can help me? Thank you thank you very much.
you mean the fuel pin wit hthe ground profile in it? if it is not wanting to come out id try gently tapping the top of it with a nylon hammer to see if some viabrations will dislodge it. you may have to function it up and down with your thumb to get it come loosen up enough to come out.
@@ebayenthusiast42 Si si de acuerdo la semana que viene he de comprar la membrana y entonces haré lo mismo que usted en el vídeo sacando la parte superior sacando la membrana y jugar para poder aflojar y limpiar la pieza cónica esperando tener suerte para que el pin pequeño pueda retroceder y poner todo en orden, lo extraño es que el coche funciona muy bien, quizás en altas revoluciones le falta un poco de fuerza pero yo no sé apreciarlo porque nunca he tenido un coche así 4wd. Gracias por todo en una semana me pondré al trabajo cuando tenga la membrana nueva saludos
@@ebayenthusiast42 Hola al final pude sacar el eje de la membrana y limpiar todo ahora tiene mucho potencial coche pero si pongo la pieza cónica en la parte más profunda la aguja tropieza con el borde del cónico y no acaba de subir hacia arriba pero no importa porque girando 15° consigo que suba y baje con libertad está perfecto un saludo. Por qué silba tanto el turbo de tu coche?
@@rzf8945 the turbo whistle is loud because this Rd28 runs the Gt1752 turbo which is very small. the older RD28s came with a bigger TB2527 which is larger and wont be spun at as righ RPM meaning less noise.
@@ebayenthusiast42 ok thanks
Could you tune the ETi pump and achieve the same results?
the ETI pump is completely electronically controlled by the ECU. the setup they run and the software utilized by the ecu are not tunable with a laptop or a chip. you have to use a steinbauer or a performance module. these are wired inline between the ECU and the pump and modify the input and output signals to change the parameters of the pumps running state. they do work, my RD was running a Rapid Performance Module which seemed to work OK. the benefit of swapping to a mech pump is that you only need one 12v wire to run the car. the ETI's are known to have problems wit their MAF's and Crank angle sensors if you go through mud and water.
@@ebayenthusiast42 Cheers for the info!
Do you happen to recall your final pump setting you were happy with for the compensator diaphragm and spring? Cheers
il give my pump a measure when i get the chance.
hey mate are you still chasing these details?
Did you need to use gq injectors?
Nah mate you dont need to. GU injectors will work too if youv got an 11mm plunger in the pump. Its a bit of a stuff around changing from GU to GQ injectors as you need a different spill rail, glow rail and injector lines
@@ebayenthusiast42 what happens with injector 1 with the plug on the gu set?
@@vibexup3042 it can just sit unplugged, once you swap to the mechanical pump you have effectively bypassed the ecu entirely so theres no need for the needle lift sensor
@@ebayenthusiast42 just messaged on Insta 👍
CU POMPA MECANICA SI CAP DE 11MM
Similar to a pump RD28 td6
Bonjour auriez-vous la traduction en français ou sous,titre svp merci 🙏
Coloque o Closed Caption, se esforce para entender, 🙂
l'automatique closed caption pour l'anglais est très précis. il devrait y avoir un paramètre pour traduire le produit closed caption.
5:03 The only reason to have that much soot is if you hate cyclists.
If they dont pay rego, they deserve a facefull of dinosaur dust!
LOL classic. That's funny as. Mine won't SMOKE on command but it'd be funny to see.
Why I'm I here? My gearbox can't take anymore anyway. 😅
Nah mate throw more power at it! Youl only know your gearbox can't take more when it actually breaks 😂