A million thanks, I have a bad pump with an undisturbed hub and a good pump I pulled the hub off (before I realized it wasn't keyed, of course) so thanks to you I can finally figure out the magic number for my good aaz pump and set it up correctly. Excellent demonstration. Greatly appreciate your work.
Hi mate, how do you know what gauge to set the pump to? In the video you set yours to 160 but how do I know what to set mine to? I have a Bosch vp44 059130106k 0470506038. So my question is what to set my timing to on the gauge? Replaced all the seals and rings along with the timing cylinder but car does not start so I am sure I assembled it a bit off, and knocked my timing out of whack. Great vid by the way 👍
If you have a automatic gearbox fitted on a 300 the flywheel would be different. The question is can you still lock the flywheel? Thanks for all the information you give us.
OK, but that setting of 1.6 mm is only good for your vehicle application. I cannot find the specification for the application I am currently setting. It is a 1104 Perkins in a Hyster. Can you direct me to find specifications please? Great video and I learned allot. A local shop said 1.39mm for my application but I would like a tie breaker confirmation.
Hi mike. Coming back to this video as Ive got myself a timing set and would like to check the VE timing! Ive read that you should look up the timing according to the ID number on the pump? but Ive not been able to find anywhere to look it up(!)? I seem to recall that somewhere you said that you set the VE pumps to slightly different timing anyway? 1.6 rings a bell? What would you recommend the optimum timing for a 200Tdi Defender? or if unwilling to publish here, do you know somewhere to look it up please? cheers 👍
Hi Mike, I love your videos, really great. The other day I changed the belt on my 300TDI engine and did something wrong. I think I didn't put the crankshaft pulley in far enough. 3 km later the belt ran off the pulleys and damaged the adjusters (ball bearing all shattered). Also of course damage to the engine, all pushrods bent and one of the rockers broken. Now I am waiting for the parts to be sent from Paddocks and I am wondering what to do more than rebuilding the timing case, setting everything to their "zero" positions. Should I do the timing of the pump? And if I need to do the timing of the pump, with my dial gauge, where do I find the extension for the dial gauge and the special insert for the pump? Thanks for your brilliant video and thanks in advance for your answer... Regards, Gert Jan, the driver of MiladyLandy.
Before getting too deep into re timing the pump, I would get the engine running right first! You may not be able to detect the changes the pump timing will make This is the pump timing kit you need injectionpumps.co.uk/product/injection-pump-timing-set-for-bosch-ve-pumps/ You may be able to find similar cheaper on the web
Hey I just replaced my ve pump in my Cummings. Been trying for days to get it running. I fallowed the manual correct. I’ve removed few in the past. I seem to have bleed the fuel system. Anything I could be over looking on the ve pump
Great vid thanks for uploading, I dont think I have a slot on my 200tdi vp30 pump to reference No1 piston on the pump is there another way to do that on these please?
@@BritannicaRestorations so sorry id got mixed up with the mark on the casing and the slot.....i should have checked before i typed lol. Great vid though thanks very much
Mike, I heard you say that dial gauge is marked at tenths of a millimetre, but you could not measure 1,54 mil then. I'm sure the gauge is marked at on hundreds of a millimetre. A dial gauge with only tenths of a millimetre is not a very precise tool, you need at least a hundreds of a mill.
Hi Mike, I am trying to look for end float measurement for these pumps but cannot find anywhere. The local BOSCH service garage said it has to have some end float but did not give me a figure. He told me to only worry if it has radial play. do you have an idea what I should be looking for? Thank you.
simply take out the existing bolt - pop down to your bolt supplier and get a longer one to match the threads - you may have to file the end a bit smaller to match the old one
I have removed the black locking wheel but havnt undone the bolt on side of the pump, will my pump still be timed right, I put a mark on both the black wheel and shaft of the pump so I know they’re inline, any help is thankful
@@BritannicaRestorations the pulley was locked off through timing pin, and I marked a line joining the pulley and shaft and when pulley was removed the pump shaft went about 5 minutes anti clockwise so I rotated it back clockwise and the marks lined back up okay
My injector pump for my WLT engine is not releasing fuel through injectors. I checked the solenoid and it is OK. I think it's blocked somewhere. How can I fix this. Pls help..
@BritannicaRestorations My apologies Mick, WLT is a Ford ranger XLT engine. But the injector pump are similar. Any ideas on what could cause an injector pump to release fuel.
If you remove the solenoid and the plunger then fit the solenoid back without the plunger, does it run? ATTENTION! You will have to stall to stop - not to be done on an automatic
Nice job. one thing is bothering me. I have a 1.9 ALH and the injection pump is making a strange noise: ua-cam.com/video/u8rxoJqV7c4/v-deo.html could be this due to the constant bubles that are circulating in the fuel line? or maybe the roller bearings inside the pump? thank you,
Hey mate, are you able to give me some advice? I purchased a new injector pump for my D22 Navara with the qd32 engine an upon installation I noticed I was setting the timing the injector pump was making a loud click, is that normal?
thanks for the great info
because of your info I just Got this pump to work on a 2002 vw alh tdi engine
Glad it helped
A million thanks, I have a bad pump with an undisturbed hub and a good pump I pulled the hub off (before I realized it wasn't keyed, of course) so thanks to you I can finally figure out the magic number for my good aaz pump and set it up correctly. Excellent demonstration. Greatly appreciate your work.
Glad it helped
Hi mate, how do you know what gauge to set the pump to? In the video you set yours to 160 but how do I know what to set mine to? I have a Bosch vp44 059130106k 0470506038. So my question is what to set my timing to on the gauge? Replaced all the seals and rings along with the timing cylinder but car does not start so I am sure I assembled it a bit off, and knocked my timing out of whack. Great vid by the way 👍
If you have a automatic gearbox fitted on a 300 the flywheel would be different. The question is can you still lock the flywheel? Thanks for all the information you give us.
Yes - the pin access is at the back of the adaptor housing
If you don't have the gauge, a vernier can also work just as well. It is just a bit more effort and thinking to get it right.
OK, but that setting of 1.6 mm is only good for your vehicle application. I cannot find the specification for the application I am currently setting. It is a 1104 Perkins in a Hyster. Can you direct me to find specifications please? Great video and I learned allot. A local shop said 1.39mm for my application but I would like a tie breaker confirmation.
Sorry Joe I am not a pump specialist - I have no data on these except for Land Rover applications
It's basically a liquid distributor these are great 👍
Pretty much!
Hi mike. Coming back to this video as Ive got myself a timing set and would like to check the VE timing!
Ive read that you should look up the timing according to the ID number on the pump? but Ive not been able to find anywhere to look it up(!)?
I seem to recall that somewhere you said that you set the VE pumps to slightly different timing anyway? 1.6 rings a bell?
What would you recommend the optimum timing for a 200Tdi Defender? or if unwilling to publish here, do you know somewhere to look it up please? cheers 👍
1.6 mm seems to work fine for 200Tdi - there is a different setting for electronic injection pumps, but they are few and far between
EGR pumps 1.40mm and non EGR pumps 1.54mm.
Thanks for the rescue.👍🏼
No problem 👍
Is the nut on the gear left or right hand thread? Thanks for all your posts.
6:23
I have no idea if it is not Land Rover related - I have no data
Zeroing the gauge bit vague mick, should be done at commencement of lift on no1 stroke. People may be confused when lift starts.
So zeroing is done just when the pump starts to lift for zyl1? So engine has to be turned a bit backwards from TDC?
Thanks for this. Really great but how do you do it if you don’t have a spare longer bolt from an older pump that locks the shaft?
Pop down to your local bolt supplier and buy a regular bolt to lock the shaft - replace it once done
@@BritannicaRestorations Awesome, I don't know why I didn't think it could be that simple!
Brilliant video mate thank you ❤
No problem 👍
Hi Mike, I love your videos, really great.
The other day I changed the belt on my 300TDI engine and did something wrong. I think I didn't put the crankshaft pulley in far enough. 3 km later the belt ran off the pulleys and damaged the adjusters (ball bearing all shattered). Also of course damage to the engine, all pushrods bent and one of the rockers broken.
Now I am waiting for the parts to be sent from Paddocks and I am wondering what to do more than rebuilding the timing case, setting everything to their "zero" positions. Should I do the timing of the pump?
And if I need to do the timing of the pump, with my dial gauge, where do I find the extension for the dial gauge and the special insert for the pump?
Thanks for your brilliant video and thanks in advance for your answer...
Regards,
Gert Jan, the driver of MiladyLandy.
Before getting too deep into re timing the pump, I would get the engine running right first! You may not be able to detect the changes the pump timing will make
This is the pump timing kit you need
injectionpumps.co.uk/product/injection-pump-timing-set-for-bosch-ve-pumps/
You may be able to find similar cheaper on the web
@@BritannicaRestorations thanks, this answer gives me more confidence.
Thank you very much! Very very helpful! Appreciate.
You're welcome!
Great work 👏 👍 👌 💪
Is the lift on 300tdis 1,6mm? Because for a 200 its 1,54mm. Or is the 1,6mm recommended by mike?
1.6 gives a bit more 'sparkle'
Hey mike! Is it also possible to find the factory settings on the starwheel if the previous owner turned it?
Thank you so much!
Nope! Needs to go on a test bed as far as I know
Hey I just replaced my ve pump in my Cummings. Been trying for days to get it running. I fallowed the manual correct. I’ve removed few in the past. I seem to have bleed the fuel system. Anything I could be over looking on the ve pump
I have only done 1 Cummins many years ago - - have you the drive key in the shaft?
Great vid thanks for uploading, I dont think I have a slot on my 200tdi vp30 pump to reference No1 piston on the pump is there another way to do that on these please?
All the VE pumps had a keyway in the shaft as far as I know
@@BritannicaRestorations so sorry id got mixed up with the mark on the casing and the slot.....i should have checked before i typed lol. Great vid though thanks very much
Mine is a gear pump so just curious if you might know since it rotates CCW.
Mike, I heard you say that dial gauge is marked at tenths of a millimetre, but you could not measure 1,54 mil then. I'm sure the gauge is marked at on hundreds of a millimetre. A dial gauge with only tenths of a millimetre is not a very precise tool, you need at least a hundreds of a mill.
My early morning error - sorry!
any idea what would cause shaft, play in and out?
Thank you for the videos!
I believe this goes when the pump is running under pressure
@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks a bunch!
Hi Mike, I am trying to look for end float measurement for these pumps but cannot find anywhere. The local BOSCH service garage said it has to have some end float but did not give me a figure. He told me to only worry if it has radial play. do you have an idea what I should be looking for? Thank you.
I believe they have a bit of float but once under pressure they are ok
@@BritannicaRestorations I ended taking it for the bushes to be changed and a full service one it’s out. Thanks Mike.
Hello sir, my car is a Mercedes Benz 190 and since i replaced the fuel pump the car won't start with the key. What could be the problem
Not sure as I only do Land Rovers, but if the pump is the same then make sure there is power going to the stop solenoid and it is operating
Mmm...brill 😉👍👍now l have to get a guage set.. 😊
Go for it!
How can this be done on a 300 pump which doesn't have a locking bolt? any help would be greatly appreciated
simply take out the existing bolt - pop down to your bolt supplier and get a longer one to match the threads - you may have to file the end a bit smaller to match the old one
@@BritannicaRestorations brilliant thank you
@@BritannicaRestorations Which is the feed and return on these pumps? cheers
i followed you putting pump back together but you didnt show how to put the top back on properly ???
Was taken down by UA-cam as I had the radio on in the background
Am working on a nissan zd300 terminating a electronic pump to fit a manual but am struggling timing any ideas
No idea! Never seen one!
Mike please write how many inches is banjo err886 screw best regards.
Hello , for vp30 pump how many milimeters have to be ?
Hello ... Can you tell me how many degrees of progress? 300 tdi
Does the pump loose time soon as the pully is taken off cheers
Yes
Mike jaki zestaw uszczelnień do 300tdi 21L pozdrawiam dziękuję
Bearmach to dobry zestaw - żadnych stalowych podkładek
I have removed the black locking wheel but havnt undone the bolt on side of the pump, will my pump still be timed right, I put a mark on both the black wheel and shaft of the pump so I know they’re inline, any help is thankful
Also would the shaft had span either clockwise of anti clockwise when taking of the Lilly with a puller
Hard to say - depends on where you locked the pulley - my bet is it will go anti clock wise
@@BritannicaRestorations the pulley was locked off through timing pin, and I marked a line joining the pulley and shaft and when pulley was removed the pump shaft went about 5 minutes anti clockwise so I rotated it back clockwise and the marks lined back up okay
Thank you thank you thank you.
Any time!
Are the 'poobs' open at 2:30 AM where you are, Mike??? Lol
In Quebec last orders are 3.00am!
My injector pump for my WLT engine is not releasing fuel through injectors. I checked the solenoid and it is OK. I think it's blocked somewhere. How can I fix this. Pls help..
What is a WTL engine? This is a Land Rover channel
@BritannicaRestorations My apologies Mick, WLT is a Ford ranger XLT engine. But the injector pump are similar. Any ideas on what could cause an injector pump to release fuel.
I meant to say " not to release fuel"
If you remove the solenoid and the plunger then fit the solenoid back without the plunger, does it run?
ATTENTION! You will have to stall to stop - not to be done on an automatic
Nice job.
one thing is bothering me. I have a 1.9 ALH and the injection pump is making a strange noise:
ua-cam.com/video/u8rxoJqV7c4/v-deo.html
could be this due to the constant bubles that are circulating in the fuel line?
or maybe the roller bearings inside the pump?
thank you,
Tricky - not seen one of these before - maybe a job for a pump specialist?
@@BritannicaRestorations I've been to a shop. They didn't know what cause the noise. thats quite frustrating :(
Hey mate, are you able to give me some advice? I purchased a new injector pump for my D22 Navara with the qd32 engine an upon installation I noticed I was setting the timing the injector pump was making a loud click, is that normal?
I have never heard of this vehicle but if it is a brand new pump I would return it
Ok. Thanks mate