Problematic 300Tdi injector pump leaks and will not stop
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- Опубліковано 26 лис 2024
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This video is produced for entertainment purposes only and Britannica Restorations nor Michael Wesson and/or guests featured in this video shall not, in any way or measure, be held accountable or responsible for any damages related to attempted repairs as pictured in this video.
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Just going through the same thing with my 300tdi pump. Done Oring in place, when finally assembled... after it all went to bits, it reved like a race car on start up. Found Fuel sleeve had cam out of governor pin. Brought special tools ,removed pump as you have, set up on a bench with bracket made like yours. Now it's been to bits a couple times trying to get it to pump. Will not build up pressure. Had it to bits looking for fuel blocks. Found nothing, pump looks like new inside. Can't find any info on governor settings as I suspect this is the issue now, fuel sleeve and spill port issues. I won't give up yet . Thanks for all your videos Mike, they help us keep these old land rovers moving.
have you had the max fuel adjusting screw out .its the 13mm lock nut just up from the stop solonoid ? try screwing it in as far as it will go then back it off a quarter turn
@williamgould2855 hi william, no I havent touched the fuel adjusting screw as yet. While studying up on how the pumps work that was one thing they say never to touch, so i haven't yet. I've done the pump timing and set the stroke to factory settings, and also tried it at 1.6mm, still no pump pressure. I've got a new lift pump, I'm still thinking I've got a governor adjustment problem, after the massive rev it done on first start up. All the little springs and things may have been pushed to there limits and now maybe out of adjustment. fuel sleve is just letting it pass out the spill port I suspect, I seem to have fuel through the pump but it won't pressurise it? I though I'd marked and measured everything before i disassembled the pump but something is off a bit
its ok to take it out .the control cover is easier to remove with it out .if you have had the throttle lever off ? it may have been put back a spline or two off ? with the lever off try turning the throttle shaft with some pliers see if that works
@williamgould2855 yes ive had the throttle lever off, and even tho it looks back on the marking I made it could be out a spline eather way, very fine splines them ones. Thanks for your help and advice too. 👍
no problem
I've got a feeling a few parts are going to end up over neighbour's fence before day is done...😂
My neighbour doesn't know I lob bits over the fence when tinkering in the shed... I laugh when I hear her lawnmower go "ting" as she mows the lawn 🤣👍🇮🇪
Rusty bulkhead stole the show at the behinning
I have been watching and subscribing for years and I never tire of watching your videos and I love your wit and humour . Thanks for doing them.
Awesome! Thank you!
I loved hearing the raccoons advising you in the background Mike . Best luck with the 'perpetual' landie engine !
Thanks 👍
Oooh looking forward to this one! Little fiddly bits.. thanks for doing all the frustrating bits for all of us mike!
Hope you enjoyed it!
Blimey !! Good job your done this video as my dear old 300tdi has started oozing out like this ! And Christ a British MOT tester wouldn’t be impressed with that bulkhead. 80,000 on a timing belt hmmm. Like you says you’ve recommended it but that’s all you can do !
ua-cam.com/video/Mj-iaM19Ftw/v-deo.html
Just had to change my lift pump. Engine kept cutting out. Now runs well😊
Nice 👍
That's pretty common actually, it's the injection pump drive plate disintegrating, and bits of metal are flying around the system and jamming it open or dislodged debris from when you changed the lift pump shifting more fuel and dislodging it....
It's just bad luck.....
It's one of those classic, since you worked on my car it now does this, it didn't do it before situations, awkward sometimes that......
Yeap - I don't think these vehicles want to leave their mates here!
As always great video, feel your frustration!!
Why would the plate disintegrate?
usualy because the rollers start breaking up .low sulpfer diesel? or just wear and tear .but on certain pump set ups it was very common
@@williamgould2855 interesting. Think I heard him say something about rust, so could be that too.
When you own and drive a Defender you never have to worry about being board.
Speaking of which, time to check the fluids.
1999 I was in the Western (Lybian) Desert in Egypt with a friend. He had a Landcruiser 80 with special gearing and could turn all 4 wheels locked with less than 2km/h! I envied him he drove out of every bit of soft sand where my 1996 300Tdi Discovery1 needed sandrails!
We were about 500km into the desert when one evening the 300Tdi would not stop running! The stop solenoid valve did not close even when there was no 12V!!!
The solenoid needs a 22 spanner which we had but there is NO SPACE for it!!!! With a lot of 4-letter words vice-grps and .... Tarek and I got it out - blew on it closed it and drove without further problems the remaining 12 days and 3.000km before we were back in civilization!
Now I have a 4 inch (10cm) 22 spanner in my tool box and never ever gad an other solenoid problem! Bring an umbrella and it will not rain!
PS: if you know where the solenoid is it is a great inexpensive theft deterrent! Just pull the plug - the engine will not start!
Thanks!
This one was 24 mm - by removing the bracket that holds the throttle cable, you can get the spanner in.
The pump head is still held in place with 2 other screws!
@@BritannicaRestorations I will check my latest Discovery 1 300Tdi 1998 - first registered 2000 from Conrico! Been with me since then registered in 4 different countries
Hello mr Mike! Could the atf fluid cleaned the pipes and the rust on the injection pump pushing some debrie on the solenoid valve? I remember you filled the the diesel filter with atf... i have nothing against it, but this defender seems to be a little neglected by the owner. I mean, diesel gets water and the rust grows inside the pump... also, it gets some bacteria ou microrganisms (that black gummy thing)... if the system was dirty and rusty, could the atf clean it a little and moved the junk to the solenoid valve?
Did you put that stick to hold the bonnet open, to avoid an accident? I remember that also from previous video! Stay safe, mister!
Thank you for the info and the video!
I'm guessing this was a video made before your recent Disco 2 rant as you are your usual enthusiastic personality.
Yes this was last week - just got the O rings Friday
@@BritannicaRestorations I have days like that, very important to walk away and cool down. It's surprising how this gives you the enthusiasm back, as well as a couple of routes to explore a particular problem.
Excellent video Mike.
I have a question! On a carb V8,according manufacturer the choke must be in lock position when not in use or just free down inlocked? Thanks Mike
The chances of the choke coming on when running is minimal
Just push it in and leave it
@@BritannicaRestorationsthats what I do but sometimes when is free down the dash light comes on and was wondering what manufacturer sais for its usage.
always great tips! What thread size and source did you use for those plastic caps you used for the fuel lines? Those would be fantastic to have for an overland/off trail field repair kit
They come in the rebuild kits
injectionpumps.co.uk/product/seal-repair-kit-bosch-ve-pumps/
Yep contamination or sticky solinoid, strip everything drain fuel tank (return fuel contaminated ) good luck
If there's swarf under the stop solenoid, that pump needs more than an O ring sadly...
Made it run too well!
Do you have a parts number or name for the tool that you used on the pulley? And or what pen did you use to hold the timing in place? Any help would be great as I have to do this exact same job…
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404533588503?hash=item5e3014b217:g:g1wAAOSwBJJlHw~n&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0KnUcVwW0QirsTAbg33XaJ227%2FJN1xCzCsTmpCb2uyAOGjkVQKDbx0MyQDDEo471psUE269deO%2BwISCooP7U7vf5dSEqlo8%2F%2F5%2FANtsGSw4HvQma5Xw1d6czH8maKxmTIqkTP2ffmjQtAGuWSWjiw8Q3g6BGhOYvwYro5Y8ieDHTTnRjnZXU83GP4K71uJZgLPv3U1ABLIkB0imEVb8bQIX8M7o0qT6657IlOos11dpKciTlfUsLuccAl4U8NUBQQXTH3wTs20UL2DceWyMlsLk%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7Daka73Yg
"It didn't do that before..."
Words said every other day by Land Rover owners lol...
Dear oh dear oh dear.
Oh yes
Holes in the bulkhead, screen rubber knackered, why do people drive these clunking old wrecks? They leak like sieves, got draughts like a barn door, shake your teeth out, guzzle fuel and twist your spine as you sit on an angle, because the pedals are out of line. Then, if youre wider than 10" you need your elbow out the window in order to sit in it!
Great for trundling round a field as the farmers did but theyve had their day. The modern alternative is an electrical nightmare.
Scrap them!
Timing pin without a head = 9.5mm drill!
Was that a Wolf behind you at the end of the video?!
It's a V8 5 speed standard!
I'm thinking it's time to double your hourly rate and insist on a 4 hour minimum, paid in advance. You ain't running a bloody charity, Mike.
Thinking about it Dave...
Not many years to official retirement now...
with all respect for the vallet situation, but you cant run an oldtimer willing to spend for changing o-rings. this is wishful thinking. this is bush-mecanic repairs in the bush , but not repairing for going into the bush
and not willing to change the timing belt hitting the 80k, but planning to go on holidays with this car, ... can it get any better.
this is the problem of land rovers. you can throw anything to them and they run anyway
what a great car - well, if you are not the mecanic who has to do the magic ....