I heard a hissing noise coming from the truck as I walked up to it. I popped the hood noticed that solenoid was making noise. Apparently that upper line (the one you pulled off), had blown off and was laying near the bottom of the engine. It was undamaged and I it went right back in. This video helped explain that part. Hopefully no damage to the hubs. Nice explanation in the video! Thanks!
I have a 2004 F150 XLT and that solenoid is on the passenger side on mine and others I have seen made around that year. The reason for the bracket was to shield the solenoid from water flowing on to it from above, which was causing them to fail. They made the replacement one with the bracket as a shield to keep it dry. I guess if is mounted where it will stay dry then you don't need the bracket, but on some models it is there to keep it from getting wet.
Another tip if your IWE are grinding, is unplugged the solenoid until you can get things fixed. Will essentially keep your hubs/front differential locked, but still keeps the transfer case in 2wd Won’t damage the drive teeth on the CV axle from grinding, and won’t have the drive line stress of 4wd
I already bought mine at autozone, let's see if it works, although I'm not sure if the noise is due to the IWE. but it's better to change it so I know it won't get damaged
I change selonoid and the other cable next to for the blue thing and yesterday i change both iwe hub actuator and thoes the noise but not that hard what you think i should check
I recently purchased a 2017 F150 3.5. I believe my iwe’s are bad on my drivers side. Ordered a new solenoid and hose assembly off Amazon last night. Great video! Keep up the good work.
@@valentincabada1518 so I took the truck to the dealership twice. First time, hub, solenoid, hoses on drivers side all got replace. They said it was fixed. Didn’t make it out of the lot and it did it again. Second time.. they replaced another check valve and it is fixed. I’ll attempt to put up a video in the next week or so on what they replaced.
So if you remove the hose an it lets air out does that mean ur solenoid is good or bad? Trying to start from the top and work my way down. I bought a new one but the old one has the shield bracket so it’s been replaced before I have a 06 f150 5.4 triton 3v
Mine is a 2013 F150 Eco boost. I replaced solenoid and check valve. Still same grinding when letting off gas or breaking to slow truck down. If I get new hub replacements those have IWE, actuators and bearings right?
Should be. I drove mine for about a week before I figured it out. Got really bad at the end. But I'll probably just replace them when I go and look to see if they have any damage.
What CAI do you have? I am having an issue with my IWE I believe. I am getting a random, very faint vibration braking at very low speeds. I could hear it and feel it in the brake pedal. I tried to bed the brakes a few times and it seemed to help (I can feel warpage and this is a new to me truck) but then I believe it randomly came back again. It is hard to tell because my Ridge grapplers are pretty aggressive and have a little low speed start up vibration
I just used 4x4 for one of the first times and it engages pretty harshly. I was moving about 10 mph and it made a loud clack sound. It did the same to me when I first got the truck a few weeks ago. I put it in 4 auto while going around 25 in the rain and it made the loud engagement sound and made the tires squeal. Granted I could have accidentally engaged the locking rear.@@BreakdownswithBrian
@BreakdownswithBrian hmm mine is pretty loud. I may need to get it checked out and see if there's any recalls for any of that stuff. My 2010 just makes a little click sound and I've never had an issue with it engaging
I suspect mine is bad, but the sound is not a constant grinding, but is more of a sound like a brake pad is down to the metal - at low speeds (15-20) it's a pulsating light grinding noise. My pads and rotors are less than six months old and my hubs are new too. It's not a heavy grinding like if you thought your differential was going out. Perhaps mine is a vacuum leak or the solenoid is ready to completely go? My front end is tight.
Hey did you end up figuring it out , mine is doing the same thing how u said it’s like if the brake pads are out but they are also 6months old I changed the check valve only & still doing the sound ima replace the solenoid tomorrow hooping that fixes it
I replaced my check valve assembly today because mine is grinding too. But very rare. Once a year maybe. Realized it already has the revised one. Should I go to solenoid next?
just to clarify, its vacuum, there is no pressure. Also if the grinding sound happens only when its freezing temperatures, the seal at the actuator has allowed water to get in, then freeze and it will prevent the vacuum from pulling on the diaphragm of the actuator, you engage 4 wheel drive. In other words its default 4 wheel drive, vacuum allows for rear wheel drive only .
I had the same issue..but mine would grind off and on in any temperature..did matter..every time I would take it dealership it would stop making the sound. Even though it was under warranty, the dealership is useless..so I figured it out myself..ended up replacing solenoid and check valve and Noise is gone..
bought a solenoid thinking it was the problem (also replaced the check valve) but needless to say both solenoids (old one and new one) wouldnt suck air (hold vacuum) on the top hose on the solenoid. any thoughts?
@BreakdownswithBrian I changed the solenoid, and Im now getting vacuum on both sides. Now Im thinking the problem might be in the lines going to the IWE.
it could be one of the vacuum lines that go to the IWE on each wheel. If you disconnect the solenoid and pull a vacuum on each line individually, you might be able to find which one has a leak. If the line is not cracked or cut, it might be the IWE itself. I would start with the lines, they are cheaper to replace.
Mine ended up being the check valve. Take it out and try to blow/suck air through one side. If you can do both on one side then it’s bad. You should only be able to do one or the other (depending on which side of the valve you’re trying).
So the solenoid is always pulling vacuum when normal driving. When you engage 4x4, the solenoid release. So if it's bad then. It could still be pulling vacuum. IMO
Just unplug the solenoid at the firewall. It will lock in the hub and front axles and spin the front differential. So what. It's not an issue. You may lose a small amount of gas mileage. No need to replace them if you lock the hubs.
@@LowNSlowOn2 the solenoid opens and closes the vacuum tank. If the tank doesn't hold air then the IWE stays locked. I'm not sure where the 2006 solenoid is. I think it's on the passenger side firewall
I heard a hissing noise coming from the truck as I walked up to it. I popped the hood noticed that solenoid was making noise. Apparently that upper line (the one you pulled off), had blown off and was laying near the bottom of the engine. It was undamaged and I it went right back in. This video helped explain that part. Hopefully no damage to the hubs. Nice explanation in the video! Thanks!
I'm glad it helped. Hopefully no more issues.
I have a 2004 F150 XLT and that solenoid is on the passenger side on mine and others I have seen made around that year. The reason for the bracket was to shield the solenoid from water flowing on to it from above, which was causing them to fail. They made the replacement one with the bracket as a shield to keep it dry. I guess if is mounted where it will stay dry then you don't need the bracket, but on some models it is there to keep it from getting wet.
Great video. Did well for my 2010 f150 5.4. Won't lie though, that mounting bracket didn't wanna give it up.
Glad I could help.
Another tip if your IWE are grinding, is unplugged the solenoid until you can get things fixed. Will essentially keep your hubs/front differential locked, but still keeps the transfer case in 2wd
Won’t damage the drive teeth on the CV axle from grinding, and won’t have the drive line stress of 4wd
I already bought mine at autozone, let's see if it works, although I'm not sure if the noise is due to the IWE. but it's better to change it so I know it won't get damaged
If you go to O’Reilly is called a 4WD Actuator thank you so much sir
No problem. Thanks.
I change selonoid and the other cable next to for the blue thing and yesterday i change both iwe hub actuator and thoes the noise but not that hard what you think i should check
I recently purchased a 2017 F150 3.5. I believe my iwe’s are bad on my drivers side. Ordered a new solenoid and hose assembly off Amazon last night. Great video! Keep up the good work.
I think I uploaded a video of mine
Thanks for watching. Hope those parts fix it.
Tell me how it goes when you change the solenoid
Did it work
@@valentincabada1518 so I took the truck to the dealership twice. First time, hub, solenoid, hoses on drivers side all got replace. They said it was fixed. Didn’t make it out of the lot and it did it again.
Second time.. they replaced another check valve and it is fixed. I’ll attempt to put up a video in the next week or so on what they replaced.
Thank you for this video
Not a problem. I'm glad I could help.
Thank you
No problem
I'm going to change iwe solenoi I hope it those t rattle any more
Thanks
So if you remove the hose an it lets air out does that mean ur solenoid is good or bad? Trying to start from the top and work my way down. I bought a new one but the old one has the shield bracket so it’s been replaced before I have a 06 f150 5.4 triton 3v
So the solenoid should be pulling vacuum at all times when in 2 wheel drive. It releases the vacuum (shuts off the solenoid) when in 4 wheel drive.
Mine is a 2013 F150 Eco boost. I replaced solenoid and check valve. Still same grinding when letting off gas or breaking to slow truck down. If I get new hub replacements those have IWE, actuators and bearings right?
Not %100, will have to call you local ford or auto parts to see
I change mine 2 and the iwe actuator and steel have the grinding some time come in goes don't know wat to do now
What have you tried?
Hey, did you end up making another video to see if there was any other damage or shavings inside the actuator?
I haven't. Been doing other videos. But I have bot had any other issues or noises since then.
Sorry.
@@BreakdownswithBrian no worries! appreciate the response. About to do the actuator repair this weekend, so hoping nothing is chipped inside.
Should be. I drove mine for about a week before I figured it out. Got really bad at the end.
But I'll probably just replace them when I go and look to see if they have any damage.
What CAI do you have? I am having an issue with my IWE I believe. I am getting a random, very faint vibration braking at very low speeds. I could hear it and feel it in the brake pedal. I tried to bed the brakes a few times and it seemed to help (I can feel warpage and this is a new to me truck) but then I believe it randomly came back again. It is hard to tell because my Ridge grapplers are pretty aggressive and have a little low speed start up vibration
Stage 2 AFE.
There is also a recall on the master cylinder. Depending on what year your truck is.
Mine is a 2015@@BreakdownswithBrian
I just used 4x4 for one of the first times and it engages pretty harshly. I was moving about 10 mph and it made a loud clack sound. It did the same to me when I first got the truck a few weeks ago. I put it in 4 auto while going around 25 in the rain and it made the loud engagement sound and made the tires squeal. Granted I could have accidentally engaged the locking rear.@@BreakdownswithBrian
It'll make a little clunk when driving. But shouldn't be to bad.
@BreakdownswithBrian hmm mine is pretty loud. I may need to get it checked out and see if there's any recalls for any of that stuff. My 2010 just makes a little click sound and I've never had an issue with it engaging
I suspect mine is bad, but the sound is not a constant grinding, but is more of a sound like a brake pad is down to the metal - at low speeds (15-20) it's a pulsating light grinding noise. My pads and rotors are less than six months old and my hubs are new too. It's not a heavy grinding like if you thought your differential was going out. Perhaps mine is a vacuum leak or the solenoid is ready to completely go? My front end is tight.
Yeah, in the beginning mine wasn't a constant grinding. Just got alot worse over time.
Just replaced the solenoid and check valve and it will go away.
Hey did you end up figuring it out , mine is doing the same thing how u said it’s like if the brake pads are out but they are also 6months old I changed the check valve only & still doing the sound ima replace the solenoid tomorrow hooping that fixes it
@@myrthaladominguez3862 the solenoid value should fix the problem
@@myrthaladominguez3862 it’s the solenoid
I didn’t hear the air release when I removed those vacuum hoses to replace solenoid…so that means my hoses are bad right?
If you have a vacuum pump you can hook it up to the IWE and see if it holds air. If not need to replace the IWE
I replaced my check valve assembly today because mine is grinding too. But very rare. Once a year maybe. Realized it already has the revised one. Should I go to solenoid next?
Yeah, would have done the solenoid first.
Really? Valve is before it im just going down the line cheapest first
I do the same, just on the forms, that's what I saw.
I replaced check valve,and it didn’t stop..then replaced check and solenoid and it worked.
just to clarify, its vacuum, there is no pressure. Also if the grinding sound happens only when its freezing temperatures, the seal at the actuator has allowed water to get in, then freeze and it will prevent the vacuum from pulling on the diaphragm of the actuator, you engage 4 wheel drive. In other words its default 4 wheel drive, vacuum allows for rear wheel drive only .
Correct, mine was messing up around August. So wasn't an issue with the weather.
But I do appreciate the input.
I had the same issue..but mine would grind off and on in any temperature..did matter..every time I would take it dealership it would stop making the sound. Even though it was under warranty, the dealership is useless..so I figured it out myself..ended up replacing solenoid and check valve and Noise is gone..
Mine is doing that grinding some time and don't know we're to start
This is the exact problem I have. Only happens in below freezing temperatures. How do I fix this?
@DwightBowlds-vh7ko replace the valve.
Do I have to change solenoid when I'm driving like 60 I here this light grinding and sometimes 50 and up
It's the cheapest part to replace. Plus, it's normally the problem. So, yes.
bought a solenoid thinking it was the problem (also replaced the check valve) but needless to say both solenoids (old one and new one) wouldnt suck air (hold vacuum) on the top hose on the solenoid. any thoughts?
So when you pull the hose off, either side of the solenoid. There is no vacuum? In 2wd
@BreakdownswithBrian I changed the solenoid, and Im now getting vacuum on both sides. Now Im thinking the problem might be in the lines going to the IWE.
Pull the line from the IWE and feel if there is vacuum
I have a 2019. I replaced the solenoid and it’s still not pulling a vacuum through the top port on the solenoid. Any thoughts?
Replace the check valve. And if it's not that, then take the tire off. Spin the hub bearing. And see which one is bad. Then replace the whole IWE
it could be one of the vacuum lines that go to the IWE on each wheel. If you disconnect the solenoid and pull a vacuum on each line individually, you might be able to find which one has a leak. If the line is not cracked or cut, it might be the IWE itself. I would start with the lines, they are cheaper to replace.
I replaced both solenoid and check valve. Noise went away but come back intermittently .
Possibly a small hole in the vacuum line.
Mine ended up being the check valve. Take it out and try to blow/suck air through one side. If you can do both on one side then it’s bad. You should only be able to do one or the other (depending on which side of the valve you’re trying).
Mine makes a noise in 4x4 and I replaced both iwes any idea what that could be
Did you do the air lines or solenoid or check valve
@@BreakdownswithBrian there is a new check valve but I haven’t done the lines or solenoid yet
Sounds like you have a leak in the air line. Or a bad solenoid.
@@BreakdownswithBrian that would cause the noise only in 4x4?
So the solenoid is always pulling vacuum when normal driving. When you engage 4x4, the solenoid release. So if it's bad then. It could still be pulling vacuum. IMO
Can you hear that engine pulling more air from that intake?
100%
ua-cam.com/users/shortsZHTMWnYHJZk?si=8fR-J6U7vXfN21HL
The part that you got was for an older truck
Been there done this but I still don't know what iwe stands for
Integrated Wheel End
@@BreakdownswithBrian I know now appreciate it now if I can just remember it
I have replaced everything silhouette everything Can you help me
If it's not the solenoid. Try the check valve. Then I would take the tire off and look at the iwe.
What have you tried?
Mine is a 2010
Just unplug the solenoid at the firewall. It will lock in the hub and front axles and spin the front differential. So what. It's not an issue. You may lose a small amount of gas mileage. No need to replace them if you lock the hubs.
Wow man thank you!
Just unplug the whole solenoid?
Where do I unplug? 2006 f150
@@LowNSlowOn2 the solenoid opens and closes the vacuum tank. If the tank doesn't hold air then the IWE stays locked. I'm not sure where the 2006 solenoid is. I think it's on the passenger side firewall