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How to find the component causing the grinding on Ford F-150 4wd trucks.
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- Опубліковано 8 жов 2020
- This is a quick and easy way to check the IWE components such as the solenoid, check valve, IWE actuator, and hoses on a Ford F-150 to find out which one is causing the grinding, growling, or 4wd not engaging or staying engaged problems.
Mighty vac
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IWE Actuator
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IWE Solenoid
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IWE Check Valve
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Blackhawk B6350 Black/Red Fast Lift Service Jack - 3.5 Ton Capacity
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Pro-LifT T-6903D Double Pin Jack Stands - 3 Ton
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737mechanic Amazon Store Front
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Mighty vac
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IWE Actuator
amzn.to/2SCPxfP
IWE Solenoid
amzn.to/3lnEbse
IWE Check Valve
amzn.to/3jLDski
Blackhawk B6350 Black/Red Fast Lift Service Jack - 3.5 Ton Capacity
amzn.to/3tNJ9rM
Pro-LifT T-6903D Double Pin Jack Stands - 3 Ton
amzn.to/45IU17z
737mechanic Amazon Store Front
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I have so much respect for people that take the time to make these kinds of informational videos and put them on UA-cam for free. Thank you
Facts u get different opinions n different looks to help u
@@chantrellasmith6002 Huh?
Well it is nice, but they get a little money on those 6 second ads
@@WaffleHouseFightNight They should!
2 years late but great comment!
I want to compliment the owner of this channel for his help and patience explaining things over and over in these comments. You sir are a gentleman and have done a great service for so many people. I have yet to check out my truck with the knowledge I have gained here, but had to take the time to thank you in advance for what you are doing here. Thank you.
Thank you for taking the time to show us DIYer's a thorough procedure for troubleshooting this system.
Great video! I have been dealing with this issue for a couple months now and can't wait til sunrise to isolate my problem. Thank you!
I've been servicing these same problems on fords and i can say you didn't miss out any information in diagnosing. Perfect video!
I'm glad to hear that, I am not a Ford specific mechanic so I have to study and learn the systems the best that I can.
Would all of this still be relevant for a 2017 f150? Would i
I trouble shoot it the same way
Excellent video. Very straightforward explanation of what you are checking and why you’re doing it.
My mechanic broke the vacuum lines. After repairing the big line. I was getting crazy trying to figure out where the small hose connected up at the engine bay. Thanks to this video. Now I know is just a ventilation line. Thumbs up to this video. Made my day a bit better.
Leave it to an a&p mechanic to break it down so well for the rest of us noobs. Great video sir
I've learned something new today and I will be bringing this information to a mechanic soon. Thanks for the awesome video
This is an awesome video thank you for breaking down how everything works. I found a split and the vacuum line going to the drivers hub. Quick trip to the dealership $45 for the part and I was fixed.
Bro, this video is AWESOME 👏!!! Thank you so much for taking the time to explain the symptoms/ causes!!! I have a complete understanding as to what I’m looking for now!!! Wish I would’ve come across this video sooner. Again, thank you, Sir.
Very helpful, Sir!! Thank you for making this video . This has helped me diagnose my problem. I had no idea that vacuum was applied to release the hub to engage the front axels. I knew my old Fords used vacuum to engage the front axels. I thought it was a bad hub. Now, I am almost certain it is IWE or vacuum problem. My truck is a 2020 and still under warranty. At least now I can tell my Ford tech where to start looking. Thank you!!
This is the best video I have saw yet. Thanks it’s the same system as my 2010 model. But when I’m driving my truck it sounds like the rear end. Wish they was a before sound video and after so we could see if it sounded like ours. Thanks again
I have a 2013 Ford F150 king ranch, making a humming noise on the driver side and couldn’t figure out what it was or where it was coming from. This video really helped, Thanks for taking the time and patience to explain how the system works.
I’m so glad you made this. I am a mechanic but I didn’t know how these work. I drive all over the state of Texas in the oilfield and my truck started making grinding noise from both hubs. I know more of where to troubleshoot to. I think mine is a bad check valve or solenoid is weak.
The best video I've found so far on troubleshooting the problem. Every three weeks I drive to or from work 10 hours, I've started getting this grinding noise about 6-8 hours I can switch to 4wd and back to 2wd and it goes away, happens about 4-5 times over 30 minutes. Ford dealership stated there were no codes, so I need to dig deeper, an intermittent problem.
Thank you so much for sharing video. It helps me a lot to find stupid hauling noise come from.
Thanks for taking the time to make a great and easy to understand excellent work man thanks
Thank you thank you for creating such an incredible video! Very informative and he explains everything well!
thank you for the content. this is the exact answer i was trying to get from the stealership.. helps me understand everything. thank you
Very informative was able to fix my truck myself and be saved from the stealership 👍
Perfect explanation. Thanks for the complete explanation.
Thanks for the video.
My 4x4 wouldn't engage.
Checked solenoid and it was full of fine sand, so i replaced solenoid and checked the 2 valves on my 2007 f150.
Still did not work and no error code.
When put into 4x4, the vacuum from top port would not stop. So i replaced the tranfer case switch and that did the trick.
The tranfer case switch must need to be working to groung out solenoid for (it) to work. 🤷♂️
Thanks again for the vid!
Completed a right-side IWE replacement today. Disassembling revealed that the IWE had *split in two*, with the spline gear stuck on the hub's spline and barely engaged on the CV side spline. Explains why the grinding was on right-hand turns - the weight of the CV would cause it to disengage from the stuck spline gear. Both the CV and hub splines where in perfect shape, so I avoided a far more expensive repair.
The replacement tested fine during assembly and when everything was back together, let's hope it lasts longer than its predecessor.
Very in depth video. Thanks a lot for this information!!
Mine was fairly easy to diagnose because it was a split hose. The zip tie clip at the very end that pushes into the knuckle ate a hole into the line. I ordered my new one and put a piece of tape on it for now😂 it still leaks but not as bad.
I used the tips in this video to check everything and it seems to work fine, just a old hose
May have just cured me of a headache. I've been hearing a clunking noise from the front drivers side and going through ball joints, sway arms, tie rods, wheel bearings... I did notice in triage that the wheels are engaging the axle on both sides while being out of 4 wheel. I'm going to try replacing the solenoid and check valve as they're relatively cheap. Thanks!
Very useful and informative video, thank you.
Literally replaced everything listed but once in a while it still does it!
If you have an ecoboost make sure your vacuum is at least 15 to 21 inHg.
Just had this problem on my buddy's truck, just on the driver's side. Turned out all the plastic vacuum lines were crap, they fell apart in my hands, replaced them with new rubber vacuum hose, that's what I had, fixed the problem. So people check all the vacuum lines, especially where they connect to the rubber elbows, could be your problem and save you a ton of money.
I have a 2009 F150 and I got the grinding noise coming from what sounds like the drivers side front tire, but watching your video, my passengers side was also engaged and axle spinning when the truck was off and the drivers side was free spinning. But like I said the sound feels like it's coming from the driver side 🤷♂️ I gotta look into it some more on Monday to get the IWE replaced
Excellent advice, Thank you. I have a slight sound / feel in my steering wheel. This may be the answer.
Thank you so much for making this video!
Damn good explanation of this system. Thank you!
Thank-you sir. This has shown me that the IWE is bad in my case
Awesome explanation. Thanks
Good info! Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I have a 2015 F150FX4 with a 5L. and only 50k and had a noise that sounded like a cat heat shield vibrating. I replaced with Ford #FL3Z-3A788-B with sucess.
I have the same truck it only happens when I’m slowing down then making a turn was the same thing happening to yours ?
@@mattfolkers827 my source was the cross pipe exhaust heat shield that had two clamps on it. One was loose allowing vibration/noise. I replaced the loose one with a stainless hose clamp solving problem
This is a great video ,very useful ! Thx
Awesome job showing how to do this.
Fantastic video. Great description of operation.
Thank you.
Thank you for the detailed video
Best video I’ve seen on this
Underrate and under viewed. Good man
That was very informative thank you for that
Excellent explanation.
Bravo on a super helpful video.
If it hasn't already been mentioned, Ford just gave up on IWE on the 2015+ F150's. The truck's all still come equipped with the same setup as above, but they released a TSB instructing it to be locked out with the hubs always engaged. Tsb 22-2219. The vacuum is capped at the solenoid.
So how would you disengage 4WD then?
@@SlimShady771 The transfer case is what engages and disengages the 4wd. The IWE's can be engaged 100% of the time and not have any power coming to the front differential.
Just one of many problems I had with my 2012 with Ecoboost, glad I got rid of it
Hahaha, you realize this is a Ford 4wd problem, not an Ecoboost problem. I have a first gen Ecoboost with all the common issues. I've also had many other engines that have had an equal amount of known issues. Part of owning a vehicle is accepting it will have a whole set of common problems, just part of the deal, especially in bigger vehicles
The solenoid can be partially blocked as well. I just replaced the IWE's on my truck and the passenger side still would not disengage until after the engine is run for a minute or so. You could also hear the IWE's slap over small bumps and clunk on hard slow turns indicating very weak vacuum. Replacing the solenoid even though it was still technically functioning electrically, solved this. My best guess is the solenoids range of motion degrades over time to the point where it is never open enough to get full vacuum after a certain point. It's probably best practice to replace the solenoid at least once every 2 years by my experience. By year three they are definitely done. Will save you from having to replace the much more expensive IWE's which I had to do as they were both destroyed on my truck and it is only a little over 5 years old.
Good info to know.
Excuse me, could you provide the solenoid part number please?
Great video man well done sir!
Great video! Thank you!
Mine would grind and only when the truck was moving, I thought for sure it was the bearing hub. One morning I started up the truck and the grinding noise started. The first time the sound was made while at a stop, turned out to be my water pump. The grinding only happened while moving previously. I could barely turn the impeller on the old pump. And the funny thing was, I started up the truck so that I could position it to jack it up and inspect the hub bearing.
Excellent video. Two thumbs up
Thanks, buddy. That's always nice to hear.
Thanks 👍 you have saved the day
Excellent video
Mine made the noise, replaced vacuum and check valve. Still the same noise. The vacuum lines were brittle as hell. Amazon does not carry the vacuum tubing. Ford dealership for 40 dollars. Part #BL3Z7A785A. 2011 Ford f150 xlt. Works perfect now
great great video bud! thank you
The 13th Gen F150 has a TCCM firmware update that prevents the solenoid from allowing vacuum until the truck has been driven 2 or 3 miles after every start. This makes diagnostics a bit more complicated.
Yea, I just found that out about a month ago. Very cheesy fix from ford.
Well explained 👍🏽
I have a 17 f150. My drivers side started making the grinding noise and wouldn’t shift from 2h-4h. I replaced the check valve and it worked immediately, no noise and would shift from 2h-4h. This was about 2weeks ago. I got in the truck 2 days ago (1st time driving since part replacement) and the noise is back and won’t shift. Ugh. Thought the $10 fix would work longer than that,lol.
Waited a month for the Ford dealer to get the front wheel hub assembly. When it came they told me I had to wait another month for them to find 20 minutes to install it under warranty. I sold cars for 30 years, had I treated customers like this I wouldent have lasted a year in business.
I wish I had found this video much sooner. I just piece mealed together info from other, shittier videos. This one was thorough and informative!.
I'm just curious as to why your gauge shows around 15 to 20 in hg and mine only goes to about 5 in hg right off the main vacuum line.
Thank you!!!!!!!!!! 💯
My rear right is trying to engage when turning right or backing up. By releasing the vacuum lines and putting them back on it stopped doing it at least for my trip home. Trying to figure out what's the issue. I had vacuum can't find a hole yet. Hoping it's cheap and easy not a hub
Thank you!
I occasionally has one IWE that starts to engage of I'm climbing a hill on the highway... My vacuum reservoir will also bleed down overnight which can cause a scare if I jump in the truck, fire it up and immediately back up.... No brakes! I'll use this video to start finding that leak... I suspect might be check valve because it's so slow....
What is the purpose of the line to the right of the check valve? That one broke down at the t-fitting and tends to hiss
Mine makes a noise on low rpm i replaced the check valve and the solenoid still makes noise when i release the hose when off doesnt store air is that normal
Thanks!!
Thank you so fin much
I have a 2020 with 20k miles and I get binding when I first switch into 4hi when it’s really cold outside. I think it’s not fully engaging
i need the vacum line part number for the line that its above the check valve for a 2011 ford ecoboost 3.5 engine thanks ????
Did this. Replaced it with new and it is fine in 4wd but will not disengage. Any thoughts?
I have vacuum to my hubs in 2wd. When I engage the 4wd a check 4x4 light comes on and I still have vacuum to the hubs. I replaced the solenoid and still the same thing. Why am I keeping vacuum even when I turn 4wd on? Any ideas? Thanks. Its a 2013 ford f150
I have a 2004 f150 only makes the noises while driving if i let off the gas it stops do you know what would most likely cause that i have already replaced the solenoid and both hubs
Both of my CV are connected when my vehicle is off, ones I turn It on only the drivers one disconnects and like 20 seconds after I turn my vehicle back off I can hear air scaping from somewhere near the vacuum reservoir, is it normal?
I have an '18 F150 with the intermittent grinding noise coming from the right side. Started about 2 years ago. Have been to the Ford dealer twice and they have not been able to figure this out. Last time I brought it in they told me it was something that was frequent in F150's and there was no fix. It would change with the weather. Dude, I kid you not. That is exactly what they said! Like my Ford has arthritis or something. I am convinced it has to be the IWE since nothing else seems wrong and everyone on youtube that describes the problem sounds the same as mine. Time to get my hands dirty and solve something the manufacturer themselves could not figure out. Frustrating thing is it started while truck was under warranty, now I might have to pay for parts out of pocket.
It's interesting as it seems like if I put it in 4H for a few miles it'll stop for a day and then comes back. Hmm, maybe a weak solenoid?
The best thing you can do is buy a handheld vacuum pump. amzn.to/3peNtOk and unplug the iwe's and pull a vacuum and make sure they hold solid, if they do use the vacuum pump gauge to make sure you are getting good vacuum down to the iwe's.
I have one question , if the vacuum is the problem and not the iwe is good then if disengaging vacuum both wheels should be engaged right ?
I'm having that Grinding noise on my 2014 f150.
I have tested vacuum at the wheel ends and there's 23 lb. The solenoid is switching on and off.
I tested both iwes and they function correctly and hold vacuum at 15 lb without leaking.
The truck only makes the grinding noise when it is cool in the morning below 55°. The noise goes away when switched into 4wd. Once the truck is driven and warmed up. It does not make the noise again. I have ordered a new check valve and waiting for it to arrive from Ford.
Update: even though the check valve was bad it did not fix the problem. I ended up replacing both iwe's. Now it's nice and quiet like a new truck.
Hey Matt, same year, same problems. Just curious whats roughly the price tag that came with both iwe's?
@@andrewahline4800 Here are the parts I used www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042ORWNI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Less than $200. The IWE's fixed the problem. Nice and quiet.
If I replaced the IWE about 8 months ago do they go bad? I hear a grinding noise now. Could it be the solenoid?
Thank you again sir. You seem very knowledgeable. This has happened to me and I unplugged the electrical that goes in the solenoid. Is there a chance that it being unplugged will affect the power brakes in any way?
No, it will not affect the power brakes.
The solenoid is just to switch from 2 wheel drive to 4 wheel drive?
So if i dont use the 4 wheel drive i can just unplug it?
I changed my solenoid, check valve, and the actuators themselves. How do I tell if it is my vacuum pump or lines that are bad? Any time I go over medium bumps I get the grinding of partial engagement of the actuators
You need to get a mighty vac so you can pull a vacuum on the lines and make sure they will hold a vacuum. There are a couple ways you could do this, the way I would do it is disconnect the line at the IWE, connect the mighty vac to the vacuum line and start the engine, make sure with the engine running you have full vacuum on the mighty vac, shut the engine off and if all is tight the vacuum should not bleed off very fast.
My 17 250 is doing it and the Dealer can't figure it out
I need to watch the video but can’t at the moment baby sleeping. My 06 4x4 still works but noticing more noises When engaging and disengaging Especially if I engage when wheels are turn makes a bad noise like a thump so try not to do that but have a few times. After using a bunch in winter. I didn’t for a few months and then did and notice speaking that seems to go away the more I use it. I did replace the solenoid with the updated one with the top hat soon after I got the truck that was around 85k miles. I now have 110. I remember I was going to replace the check valve for kicks but never did. Any idea what my symptoms sound like ?
Probably the IWE's but I would replace the check valve because it is easy and cheap. I would also make sure the vacuum lines are leak-free which means you will need a mightly vac so you can easily pull a vacuum on them and make sure they hold solid. If all that passes the IWE is the last opton.
Hello I have a 2019 Expedition without 4H or 4L, it only has 4A. There's no noise in 2H but when I switch to 4A I hear a grinding noise coming from the passenger wheel well. What could be causing that issue?
Could be the IWE or related tubing, solenoid or check valve.
Im having issues with vacuum. Driver side vacuum is strong and passenger side is weak. Is that normal? I did pull a vacuum on the hoses and the vacuum did hold. Actuators are good too. Oh one other thing, i have crazy vibration on passenger side when going 50mph. All new suspension passenger cv axle new and my 4x4 stopped working a few months ago.
If it is a EcoBoost engine, make sure the mechanical vacuum pump is pulling at least 16inHg at the IWE's
2009 F150, I only get the grinding noise when switching from 4wd to 2wd and it is happening intermittently in colder temps (anything below 20F). I've lifted the front end and tested the IWE's in cold temps and cannot recreate an issue. I never get a grinding noise during summer when I do not have to engage 4wd. Which component would be causing this? I assume the check valve or solenoid...
I've seen another video, where it's reported that the older F150s (02 to 08 or so) have a problem where water from the outside of the vehicle drips onto the selenoid, and somehow makes it's way into the lines, and eventually to the IWE, where it can freeze in the winter.
Will new wheel bearing come with iwe
No
Im diagnosing this now. I have replaced the silanoid and check valve months ago and have had no issues. Now its back. Only in the early morning pulling out of neighborhood. Its coming from passenger side as well. Um going to che k the lines for cracks/leaks. If all is good then my last resort is the IWE. Not aure i can do that on my own. What are you charging flr parts/labor?
I only charge for labor which would be $200.00 Plus what the part cost.
Greetings People. I Have The Same Problem With Ford F-150 XLT 2012 5.0 L. It Was Missing A Linen. What Goes From One Place To The Other. I Know What To Do?
I changed the solenoid, check valve and vacuum lines and still had the driver side actuator engaging when I hit the gas, it doesn't do it driving slow or keeping steady speed, only when accelerating. So last night I changes the actuator hub, same issue. So now I am stumped, I have replaced the entire system and still have the drivers side only partially engaging when I hit the gas too much to accelerate. Any ideas?
Buy a mityvac so you can pull a vacuum and check the system thoroughly and see if it leaks down at all and you can also use the mityvac to make sure you have good vacuum when the engine is running and see what happens when you hit the gas. It sounds like to me the reservoir might not be holding a vacuum. The reservoir stores vacuum so when you hit the gas and the engine vacuum drops the reservoir supplies the vacuum temporarily until the engine rpm stabilizes.
Here is a mityvac on amazon but any handheld vacuum pump will work.
amzn.to/3J7ZgUQ
I think I have the same problem with my 2019 F150
You pulled the line from the check valve when the truck was off should I start the truck turn it off and quickly try that way I know there should be vaccume in it ?
Yes, it should hold vacuum if everything is tight.
I’ve got a 2009 f150 makes a humming sound every time the right front tire rotates. I can’t tell if it’s maybe a IWE, bad bearings or wheel hub. Any ideas or clues?
jack it up and pull the hose off the IWE that should allow the IWE to fully engage the hub if you spin the wheel and hear a humming noise it could be wheel bearing, also move the wheel in and out to see if there is any play.
I have a 17. Noise started yesterday. Has vacuum at all 3 points. Neither wheel is engaged (unless I call for 4x4). When I put it in 4x4, the noise stops instantly. Turning left makes the noise worse. Only thing left is the solenoid but I don’t think that’s the issue either. Any ideas?
same. let me know if you figure that out
You guys figure this out? I have the same issue.
I took off the vacuum line from the main one and hear vacuum as soon as I disconnected it does it mean I have a bad check valve or something else
Depending on which vacuum line you disconnected it could be a check valve.
Thank you it was a check valve
how would you like at3 4s
So ive done, IWE both sides, check valve, iwe solenoid, and vacuum lines. And I still have the axle on the bright side not free from the wheel
If you pull a vacuum manually using a mityvac does the wheel disengage?
@@737mechanic should i pull it from the right side by the wheel or up top by the valve
@@Rnitzsche04 I would start at the valve and make sure it releases the hub, if it does hook the hose back up and pull it from the valve and see how that goes. Also note that it should hold a vacuum, so whether you pull the vacuum at the wheel or at the valve if it bleeds off then something is leaking.
Got the same truck but a 14. I've got a humming noise like a wheel bearing. But when I put it in 4wd the noise goes away.. Any ideas? Thanks
It could be the IWE, check valve, solenoid, or vacuum leak.
737mechanic thanks, gonna replace the solenoid and Check valve