Just finished this job. Watched your video several times through. Then took the IPad to the back yard and double checked as I went on a few points. Hands down the best how to video I have seen. And I’m not a youngster. No unnecessary chatter. Great work flow. And everything worked exactly as you said. Great job. Thank you.
@@GoTechTraining Dude thank you so much for this video! I wish you were close by I would bring all my work to you. I am a carpentry and know nothing about mechanics. But I had a repair shop do this exact fix and it will not engage the 4x4 like it should. It takes some turning the wheels left to right for it to finally engage. When it does engage it still makes that grinding noise but not as bad. They also replaced a solenoid under the hood. Could it be a weak vacuum causing the new actuators from engaging properly? I would greatly appreciate your thoughts on what I should try to test to diagnose. I feel like taking this all apart see if maybe it wasn't installed correctly. I for sure am subscribing to your channel.
Wow, that sound you got it to make at 6:10 in the video is what I have been searching the whole internet for. Thanks for helping with the solution! Great Video.
Took my truck to a shop to get a sticky rotor off and have them change the brakes. Brought my bearing/hub (was going to drop it in myself before I ran in to that foul rotor) and asked if they could plunk that in while they had the rotor off. They came back and said there was some big complicated procedure including having to keep the vacuum pressure on the whole time etc. and said they weren't equipped to do it. Watched a number of other videos, and this one..and realized it's dead simple. Will never take my truck back to that shop for sure. Great video! Thanks for the help!
After a nightmare situation with the dealer and warranty company I decided I would do this myself. This is by far the best video I found. I really appreciate the great explanation and inclusion of torque specs. This video made the job quick and easy!
Great video! Very well presented. Something I learned while working in Aviation manufacturing is to only let the Torque Wrench click once. Making it click multiple times actually over torques the bolt/nut. You’d be surprised how much over torque that’s causing. I did that for years while working on Aircraft in the military and never knew of such a thing.
New Yorker here. I never saw a tie rod come apart automatically like that ! I would stop the job and go buy a lotto ticket right away. If I won I'd just pay someone to finish the job then. : )
Great video. Explained everything. I had a friend thought his CV axle was bad. So he had me look at it. I'm not a Ford guy so I didn't know about these actuators but I knew it wasn't a CV axle problem. This is exactly what was wrong.
I came across this just learning about 4WD repairs. this is what I need to fix. Off topic of why I was watching 4WD repairs. 4WD engaged but drives like it is having seizures. But I was wondering like. 2 days ago, before this video, why was my wheels grinding but now not... wow, Perfect. Thank you, Sir that is in this video. thank you GoTech.
This is the best and most helpful DIY video I've ever watched. I replaced the driver's side in a couple of hours because it was my first time. Did the passenger side in less than 40 minutes. Coming back to it today to refresh myself and get part numbers as I'm prepping to replace my front axle. If you were anywhere near me I'd be bringing my truck to you for everything.
@@GoTechTraining Just opened the parts for my sons suv. Decided on doing the delete kit on both sides. Hopefully this will keep it from having issues in the future. 🤞 Many of us r youtube mechanics, so I found your vid extremely helpful when some of us have nvr done this before. Thx for the reply....take care!
I'll be doing this tomorrow morning, I've watched numerous videos on how to do this and your process is by far the quickest and easiest as far as I can tell. The mechanics in most of these videos appear to be working on vehicles that have never been outdoors, no rust and everything just comes apart. Not a real world scenario. I couldn't even get the dust cover of the axle end without destroying it. Great video, wish me luck!
Hey David, thanks for watching! Living in Wisconsin, I know how much fun all that rust is to deal with. I hope the job went smoothly for you :) Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
2015 f150 lariat with low miles 26,000. I had an intermittent but increasing in occurrence growling noise seeming to come from front wheel. Almost sounded like tire rubbing plastic wheel well but I knew it was iwe. Began late spring cold weather.. went away summer.. came back in cold fall under 60 degree out. I replaced check valve and solenoid bc they are cheap and easy to swap.. didn't work.. rented vacuum pump from auto zone, tested all the lines engine off and while driving.. also pumped up each front iwe at the hub.. everything held vacuum perfectly and vacuum inches stayed solid when driving and while noise was happening (see troubleshoot vids it's easy if you have a pump and attchements). decided to change driver side front iwe and it worked. YOU DONT NEED TO DISCONNECT ABS LINE, just rip out lowest Xmas tree clip to give you slack and you can leave rotor on too.. rented a breaker bar from auto zone to loosen caliper bolts (get full refund when you return tools fyi). Get new IWE on.. pump it up to disengage and them push onto axel.. then release vacuum and twist iwe housing to get it locked in.. then bolt the iwe in. Otherwise this video is good.
My rotor was seized on.. left it on.. didn't want to wack it or use penitrating spray. If yours comes off easy then go right ahead and take the weight off.
Did this with your video and another guys. Liked yours cause you had the torque specs. It did actually end up taking most of my day because my rotor was rusted on. Wouldnt come off with a rubber mallet or prybar. I took some other guys advice and used two bolts screwed in through the caliber clamp pushed up against four quarter wrapped in hockey tape. After tightening both bolts back and forth for fifteen minutes eventually the rotor cracked off. But I didn’t have any spare bolts that were long enough and had to go to the hardware store … so it goes
Used this video as reference of what I was looking for to properly spline the IWE, hub and CV shaft. Good tip on putting the IWE on the hub first! Thank you.
🙂🙂🙂🙂Good video showing the disassembly and replacement of the hub end... as long as the hub end is the issue. Anything that causes a vacuum leak, from the engine to the hub end can also cause this issue... the lines, the vacuum reservoir, the check valve, can all be culprits and you need to test each for holding vacuum before you start replacing components. The fact that this one he is replacing holds vacuum implies s it may not be the problem. A very common culprit is the one way check valve... like a $10 and 2 minute fix, so be sure you need to replace the hub end before replacing🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂
Your video saved me a fortune!! Was able to do this job in my driveway in under an hour. Thanks for the great instruction! I have a 2012 Lariat Super Crew. This video was perfect!
This is the best video I've seen on this replacement procedure. Like one of the other commenters I seem to be having an issue with what seems to be my driver side not disengaging from 4wd. Getting a dull growl so will try to tackle this myself after watching this. Just waiting on my vaccuum gage to arrive
Awesome video, I wish I could have diagnosed it myself. Now I get to pay the Ford dealer to do the work. The noise sounded just like that with the loss of vacuum and there was moisture inside the IWE as well. I hope someone trained them to do it correctly. Thanks so much for the video.
What an excellent video. Good dog you do so damn good. No unnecessary talk or video time, show all the crucial video and talking points. Damn. Loved this video
Hey James, hard to say why so many leave it out. Service info doesn't directly call it out I guess. Either way, it's a must as part of the long-term fix! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Absolutely awesome and thank you so much for making this video. I was able to order the parts before hand and had everything ready. Then I watched this video as I went along making sure I hit all the right steps. I really appreciate it and it seems to have fixed my issue.
I am finally glad to see a video so plan and clear. This video shows every step of the process. I had to change these same exact parts. I didn't not what the noise was until I watched your video. Great video! It was truly helpful.
Excellent Video....now that I have a great idea as to what the problem is, I'll be able to talk with the service department and get the vehicle in for diagnosis and repair. It's really nice to see guys like you take the time to pull a video together like this. I'm betting rather than the short amount of time that it took you, I'm thinking about an all day job for me.. I'll be looking at the other videos on your web site.
@@GoTechTraining FYI... I had the occasional grinding sound in my hubs and took a chance on replacing the vacuum check valve located near the master break cylinder. Since the replacement, I haven't had any additional incidents with this grinding sound.... Roughly a $25 and 5 minute repair. Hope this helps others..
I have a vacuum gauge in the cab linked between solenoid and IWE's. This way I see if I have a leak and when there is vacuum to the IWE's. Recommend for anyone working this issue. This should be done AFTER you have tested the 4 components, IWe's, lines, valve, and tank. With gauge you are now monitoring the existence or not of vacuum. I have NOT connected a voltage gauge to monitor the solenoid voltage, but believe if you can to do so. A voltage gauge would confirm vacuum findings or point to the solenoid or voltage from upstream.
I am fixed because the components making up the system were checked and triple checked until satisfied. I disagree with the computer program which in 2WD and < 32 F. activates the vacuum 1/2 mile after starting the truck and leaving the house/store. This vacuum activation may be done under torque causing the gears to strip. I would [refer no delay but this is in the computer board.
Looked real good Mike. Could only see surface rust on the upper control arm. I was surprised how easy the nuts and bolts came off. Hopefully that replacement cures the intermittent engagement problems and gear grinding.
Nice presentation Mike. I had one of these IWE failure driving across Missouri on a hot 98 degree day. It sounded like the front end had fallen out on my 2003 Expedition. Seems like water enters the solenoid end, expanding when hot causing the IWE to engage. Scares the H#$L out of one. Probably not doing the axle teeth or IWE any favors also. FMC recalled the unit, placing a shield over the solenoid , keeping water above the cowling from entering the solenoids. Replaced both axles and IWE's and a couple check valves in the vacuum system. Seems OK , never has happened again.
Hey Robert, yeh the noise it makes is HORRIBLE. Like, pull over right now kinda noise! Glad to hear you got it all fixed up :) Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Best video I've ever seen I wish you were close to my area so I could take you my 4 x4 for transit I did a Break job on it and from that moment I have not been able to enjoy my 4 by 4 Van My mechanic did a horrible job putting in those hobb bearings
Great video. I need to find one of those vacuum tools so I can see if the iwe is the problem it maybe just a vacuum line. But now I know it's a fairly easy problem to fix. Thanks for putting this out
I’ve personally had more fail when adding grease. If the engineers wanted that much grease it would of come that way. I install these with what is supplied on it and have had no issues
Great video- thank you. After having both IWE on the front end replaced twice, I ended up going with a doorman kit that deletes the IWE. Minor change in fuel consumption (since the axles are always engaged), but hopefully solves the issue for good.
Mine are always spinning and it does enguage 4 x 4 when i switch on but i was under the impresson it would damage my truck to drive with fromt shaft and axels always spinning??
It runs and i just happen to smell gear oil so i changed rear it was fine "ofcourse lol" but the front was shot amd this is when i discovered they always spun is tgis ok
@@FBobby i actually used a brake bleeder 20 bucks worth of refrigerator parts to to engage and disengage,unfortunately the motor crapped out again so I took a total loan out and let em have it lol
great video man.. I like the explanation of when you slip the gears back together on assembly. its kind of a sweet feeling but hard to explain it well.. great job dude!!! always enjoy the videos!
Charles Lewis Can't thank you enough for the video and instruction. I replaced the drivers side on my 2015 lariat and its all quiet now. Just wondering if i should do the passenger side. It has 91000K on it. Great job Man!!
I just did both at the same time I only have 52000K on mine. The passenger side hub was in two pieces and the drivers side was so lose it would clack and visibly wiggle when you shook it. I would say these hubs have a max life span of about 3 years.
Mine isn’t really a clicking sound. It has more of a knobby tire sound. I hear it more when I’m coming to a stop between 0-20 mph. I’ve noticed when it’s colder out the noise starts sooner when breaking from like 0-40 mph. You can feel it in the whole drive line. Even feels like you are riding on knobby tires. When it’s 60° and above it hardly does it at all. Do you think this could still be related to the IWE’s? The truck is a 2016 F150 with 42k on it. Also has the 4A mode.
Oh thank goodness you address the brake caliper bolts. Several I messed with had locktite, and were not torque to yield( I had trouble reassuring a customer that it was fine, so he spent the money on new bolts to even though I didn't think it was really necessary). The Torque to yield bolts are honestly a frickin joke. Just seems like it's to make sure they are one time use only.…...what was wrong with normal bolts that didn't get stretched right to the edge of snapping off.
🙂🙂🙂🙂 Of course it is possible to get a defective part, but it may be that the part wasn't the issue to begin with. Anything that causes a loss of vacuum along the way from the engine to the hub can cause this issue. Alot of people jump to replacing the hub end. The vacuum lines can be cracked causing loss of vacuum (one particularly hard to diagnose place for vacuum line failure is where the line is held by a clip between the hub and engine bay, it will hold vacuum driving straight but the line shifts just enough when turning to lose vacuum when turning the wheel), the one way check valve can be bad (common fail) or the vacuum reservoir can have a leak. Important to test for holding vacuum all along the way... the one way check valve is like $10 and 2 minutes to replace and commonly goes bad... would be the first component I looked at before replacing hub end, hope this helps🙂🙂🙂🙂
Hey Johnaclark1, thanks, I always appreciate your comments! I try to keep it washed, and it's always garage kept. I think those 2 things help tremendously. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Excellent topic for a video. As always... I learned something. I never like to 2nd guess or question automotive engineers for the decisions they make, but a vacuum design?
Hey Mark, thanks!!! Glad to hear you've learned something today. I enjoy the questioning of everything, it's in my nature to "ask why"...a vacuum design....WHY!?!??! haha! Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Good video I’m having an issue getting the nut fully off the upper ball joint have tried everything loaded the suspension dropping the suspension pry bars have to get cut the nut off don’t really want to do that but my truck is much older than the one in the video and the corrosion and being outside and Winters have taken it’s toll I can see why my shop doesn’t wanna work on it etc.
With the engine off, my 2015 Platinum doesn’t hold a vacuum, so my axle shafts are engaged. Check valve and solenoid are good. When I start it up the vacuum is there and my axles are no longer engaged. This is normal ya? Only asking because I’ve seen videos of the vacuum holding even when the truck is off.
Hey, the big thing you want to check is to make sure the IWEs aren't leaking. Are you dealing with an issue? You should be able to hook in right at that check valve and hold vacuum all the way down the line with a vacuum pump. ~Mike
Bro I just want to tell you that the same sound came from my 2007 Ford F150 lariat just the other day and I had no idea what it was I want to thank you for this video because now I know exactly what to do I just wish my truck didn’t have as much rust as your vehicle being from Michigan salt you know what that’s like inside some pulling it apart I might as well replace a lot of the other parts because everything is rusted out just want to say thank you so much for the video now I know exactly what to do and what not to deal four thumbs up bro ok 👌🏼🔥🤠🔥Camping Russ out
I have never seen one of your videos before and I have to say I was impressed. I need this job done on my truck, and the job is a little over my non mechanical head, but at least I understand it enough that I can talk to my regular mechanic. Excellent video.
Hello, had a question, im getting a vibration in the left front when truck is cold, for about a mile or 2, it is intermittent, like if I were spinning a loose bearing and it chattered can that be the iwe going bad, also im getting a little noise when in 4wd, thanks Joe.......Also awesome video......
2017 F-150 Getting ready to start this project, was dreading it until I watched your video. Question, drivers side is bad. While I have it up in the air should I replace the passenger side?
Hey Mike, thanks for watching! Man, I honestly would. You'll be in the air tools out, jobs fresh. It's a quick repeat on the other side. Then it's done...at least for a while ;) ~Mike
I love this video and am about to dig in but I’m confused about the wheel speed sensor right at the beginning. You start by saying that before you lifted the vehicle you removed the ABS wheels speed sensor and it appears as if you did that at the hub. How did you get to that and why did you disconnect it first? I don’t even see where it connects to yet before ripping stuff apart.
Hey, yeh I didn't do a good job showing it...I unplugged the sensor connector from the body harness from under the hood. Way easier to access it that way. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Amazing video. Thanks much...gonna do it myself with the video's help. Any chance you could advise the torque down settings for putting Ball joint nut, the tie rod nut, and the hub nut please ?
question on the solenoid that controls the IWE assembly.....with the truck running, should there be vacuum present in the output side (top) of the solenoid when in 2H mode? checked the vacuum supply and there is lots of vacuum being supplied to the solenoid. new ford solenoid installed. but no vacuum present on the output side (top) when switching from 2H to 4WD.
Just started hearing the same noise you are producing at the 6:00 mark, as of today and my truck will be getting looked at on Feb 15th, I’m hoping it’s the actuators that are bad!
Hey Frank, great question. So taking vacuum away will engage the IWE's and lock the axle shafts to the wheels. That said, the truck will still be in 2wd because the transfer case won't send power to the front diff until commanded by the switch on the dash. ~Mike
My 2015 with 62,000 miles is making that grinding noise but it only does it in the first mile or so and it only lasts a second or so under light throttle. If I step on the gas it goes away which makes me think it is vacuum related. I replaced the check valve and solenoid and there was plenty of vacuum there so I’m thinking the iwe units themselves but need to get underneath and just see if anything looks obvious. If the truck fit in my garage I’d consider tackling this but don’t think I want to try this in the street if anything would go wrong. At least it only looks like a couple of hours to do both if I have to take it in. Thanks
@@GoTechTraining It sure did! Till I saw your video I was asuming this was one I would not even attempt myself. I have watched the video 3 times, the parts are on order.
Thanks, this was awesome. Helped me decide to do the IWE on my '11. Only thing I had an issue with was getting the lower arm off. I ended up leaving it attached and was still able to get the fix done. The only thing I think would have helped would have been a mini how to on how to get the ABS sensor cable disattached. That took me an hour+ of puzzling out because I couldn't find anything on the web and pictures of the replacement part were less than helpful. Anyways, thanks much for the video!
Just wanted to add something 2 months later. I think he mentions it in the video, maybe not. Anyways. If you're doing one, do the other. I just found out the hard way, and spent some extended time diagnosing trying to figure out. Off to do the other one.
Hey Allen, sorry we do not have a video covering the line replacement. Feel free to shoot me out an email if you're struggling. I could hook you up with the process from service info if required. Michael.becker@wellsve.com Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
I have no issues when I'm 4WD . But when I switched the selector knob to 2WD, the front wheel axles make a buzzin/grinding noise while driving. Do you think is the actuators or vacuum lines. Please help.
Hey LunchoFly, right thats super common to happen. In 4wd vacuum is shut off to the IWE/Hub locking them in. In 2wd vacuum needs to be applied to draw the IWE back off the hub. Use a vacuum pump on each IWE to determine if it's leaking. ~Mike
I have a 2006 f150... I changed the actuated hub and vacuum solenoid but it always makes that sound on the driver's side when he accelerated... I don't know if it's a hose leak because the hub and vacuum are practically new
Great video and information. I was having a issue with the front driver side iwe not disengaging and the front passenger side clicking. decided to just replace everything. hub assembly, iwe actuators, vacuum lines, check valve, and solenoid. I no longer have clicking on the passenger side but that drivers side is still no disengaging. Any thoughts? I've been searching everywhere to figure this out. I did notice that the front drive shaft has a little click/play to it. Any help and advise would be much appreciated. Mahalo nui loa from Hawaii
Hey Andrew, so the axle shaft is staying engaged to the hub at all times? With the truck running, see if theres vacuum leading to that side. Hard to imagine what it could be if everything is brand new. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
@@GoTechTraining I’ll try that. Is there anything in the driver side cv axle or differential that could cause one side to stay engaged even if there is a vacuum that you know of?
Same this happening to my 2019 f150. Usually only when I turn hard left, but been starting to hear it while driving on the highway since it's got cooler. I won't be able to get it fixed for a week or 2 due to working in a remote area. What's the best advice to limp it along until I can fix it the right way?
Hi Brandon, This system uses vacuum to dis-engage the axles. When it starts to fail the system leaks and looses vacuum. This causes the axles to stay partially engaged and causes the ratcheting noise. What you could do as a temporary band-aid to reduce damaged caused by the partial engagement, is to disconnect the vacuum going to the axles and plug the vacuum lines. But keep in mind this will keep the front axles engaged at all times. I hope this helps! ~Ryan Wilsing
Hi Brandon, This will lock your axles to the hubs or wheels. But it won't be in 4-wheel drive because the transfer case will not be shifted and applying power the the front diff. ~Ryan Wilsing
Hey Josh, sometimes they get pretty suck in there. If you use a pickle fork type of seperator you can damage the grease boot. I prefer to pound on the outside flange where the tie rod end goes through. Sometimes a few sharp whacks is enough to loosen the joint after the bolt is removed. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Just finished this job. Watched your video several times through. Then took the IPad to the back yard and double checked as I went on a few points. Hands down the best how to video I have seen. And I’m not a youngster. No unnecessary chatter. Great work flow. And everything worked exactly as you said. Great job. Thank you.
Hey NG Ware, that is amazing to hear! Thank you so so much!
Mike Becker, Senior Insturctor
@@GoTechTraining Dude thank you so much for this video! I wish you were close by I would bring all my work to you. I am a carpentry and know nothing about mechanics. But I had a repair shop do this exact fix and it will not engage the 4x4 like it should. It takes some turning the wheels left to right for it to finally engage. When it does engage it still makes that grinding noise but not as bad. They also replaced a solenoid under the hood. Could it be a weak vacuum causing the new actuators from engaging properly?
I would greatly appreciate your thoughts on what I should try to test to diagnose.
I feel like taking this all apart see if maybe it wasn't installed correctly.
I for sure am subscribing to your channel.
I agree great video of how 2
This is how UA-cam is supposed to work. I'll have to wait a while for my 2020 F-150 to fail but I'll be ready.
very self-explanatorial I heard every word thumbs up I will be watching your Channel thank you
Dude you just saved my day I was ready to give up searching and wait for whatever failure to tell me the problem
Wow, that sound you got it to make at 6:10 in the video is what I have been searching the whole internet for. Thanks for helping with the solution! Great Video.
Me too. My son's truck just started doing the same thing and I got really worried since I've never dealt with 4x4's before
Took my truck to a shop to get a sticky rotor off and have them change the brakes. Brought my bearing/hub (was going to drop it in myself before I ran in to that foul rotor) and asked if they could plunk that in while they had the rotor off. They came back and said there was some big complicated procedure including having to keep the vacuum pressure on the whole time etc. and said they weren't equipped to do it. Watched a number of other videos, and this one..and realized it's dead simple. Will never take my truck back to that shop for sure. Great video! Thanks for the help!
You are supposed to apply vacuum when you slide the cv axle out and back in. If you don't you can damage the IWE.
After a nightmare situation with the dealer and warranty company I decided I would do this myself. This is by far the best video I found. I really appreciate the great explanation and inclusion of torque specs. This video made the job quick and easy!
Hey Cody, thanks for watching! Glad the video helped you get the job done.
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Did your truck shake and you can feel bumps in the road.
Anymore now a days, they just guess and guess wasting your time. I hate dealing with the dealerships sometimes
Great video! Very well presented.
Something I learned while working in Aviation manufacturing is to only let the Torque Wrench click once. Making it click multiple times actually over torques the bolt/nut. You’d be surprised how much over torque that’s causing. I did that for years while working on Aircraft in the military and never knew of such a thing.
New Yorker here. I never saw a tie rod come apart automatically like that ! I would stop the job and go buy a lotto ticket right away. If I won I'd just pay someone to finish the job then. : )
Hey Rick, Wisconsin here, I feel your pain! I should have bought a lotto ticket that day...oh well. Maybe next time :)
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
I'm from MA. How about those wheel hubs that are suppose to only take an hour to replace?
Lol
I need to pull my CV shaft and this was the best video I could find on how to get it free of the steering knuckle. Good instructions.
Great video. Explained everything. I had a friend thought his CV axle was bad. So he had me look at it. I'm not a Ford guy so I didn't know about these actuators but I knew it wasn't a CV axle problem. This is exactly what was wrong.
Thank you.....I am not a mechanic but now have a better understanding when I take my 2014 4x4 F150 for four wheel drive issues.
Hi Vickie, thanks for watching! Glad the video was educational for you! Good luck getting the repair done.
~Mike
I came across this just learning about 4WD repairs. this is what I need to fix. Off topic of why I was watching 4WD repairs. 4WD engaged but drives like it is having seizures. But I was wondering like. 2 days ago, before this video, why was my wheels grinding but now not... wow, Perfect. Thank you, Sir that is in this video. thank you GoTech.
Hey J. Kilem, thanks for watching! Glad to hear the video helped
This is the best and most helpful DIY video I've ever watched. I replaced the driver's side in a couple of hours because it was my first time. Did the passenger side in less than 40 minutes. Coming back to it today to refresh myself and get part numbers as I'm prepping to replace my front axle.
If you were anywhere near me I'd be bringing my truck to you for everything.
Damn what a vid, not only performed the job, but explained everything in layman's terms!
Hey Concrete, thanks a ton! Hope you found it helpful!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
@@GoTechTraining Just opened the parts for my sons suv. Decided on doing the delete kit on both sides. Hopefully this will keep it from having issues in the future. 🤞 Many of us r youtube mechanics, so I found your vid extremely helpful when some of us have nvr done this before.
Thx for the reply....take care!
I'll be doing this tomorrow morning, I've watched numerous videos on how to do this and your process is by far the quickest and easiest as far as I can tell.
The mechanics in most of these videos appear to be working on vehicles that have never been outdoors, no rust and everything just comes apart.
Not a real world scenario.
I couldn't even get the dust cover of the axle end without destroying it.
Great video, wish me luck!
Hey David, thanks for watching! Living in Wisconsin, I know how much fun all that rust is to deal with. I hope the job went smoothly for you :)
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
2015 f150 lariat with low miles 26,000. I had an intermittent but increasing in occurrence growling noise seeming to come from front wheel. Almost sounded like tire rubbing plastic wheel well but I knew it was iwe. Began late spring cold weather.. went away summer.. came back in cold fall under 60 degree out. I replaced check valve and solenoid bc they are cheap and easy to swap.. didn't work.. rented vacuum pump from auto zone, tested all the lines engine off and while driving.. also pumped up each front iwe at the hub.. everything held vacuum perfectly and vacuum inches stayed solid when driving and while noise was happening (see troubleshoot vids it's easy if you have a pump and attchements). decided to change driver side front iwe and it worked. YOU DONT NEED TO DISCONNECT ABS LINE, just rip out lowest Xmas tree clip to give you slack and you can leave rotor on too.. rented a breaker bar from auto zone to loosen caliper bolts (get full refund when you return tools fyi). Get new IWE on.. pump it up to disengage and them push onto axel.. then release vacuum and twist iwe housing to get it locked in.. then bolt the iwe in. Otherwise this video is good.
My rotor was seized on.. left it on.. didn't want to wack it or use penitrating spray. If yours comes off easy then go right ahead and take the weight off.
Did this with your video and another guys. Liked yours cause you had the torque specs. It did actually end up taking most of my day because my rotor was rusted on. Wouldnt come off with a rubber mallet or prybar. I took some other guys advice and used two bolts screwed in through the caliber clamp pushed up against four quarter wrapped in hockey tape. After tightening both bolts back and forth for fifteen minutes eventually the rotor cracked off. But I didn’t have any spare bolts that were long enough and had to go to the hardware store … so it goes
Used this video as reference of what I was looking for to properly spline the IWE, hub and CV shaft. Good tip on putting the IWE on the hub first!
Thank you.
Awesome! Glad the video helped!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
🙂🙂🙂🙂Good video showing the disassembly and replacement of the hub end... as long as the hub end is the issue. Anything that causes a vacuum leak, from the engine to the hub end can also cause this issue... the lines, the vacuum reservoir, the check valve, can all be culprits and you need to test each for holding vacuum before you start replacing components. The fact that this one he is replacing holds vacuum implies s it may not be the problem. A very common culprit is the one way check valve... like a $10 and 2 minute fix, so be sure you need to replace the hub end before replacing🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂
Thank you. This is the best IWE replacement I’ve seen - and I think I’ve seen them all at this point 😂
Thank you! This helped me replace my actuator, new hub, new caliper and brake pads.
Your video saved me a fortune!! Was able to do this job in my driveway in under an hour. Thanks for the great instruction! I have a 2012 Lariat Super Crew. This video was perfect!
Perfect. Thank you. I also noticed a change in my avg fuel economy when I started getting the intermittent grinding sound.
Hey Rob, thanks for watching! I supposed the partially engaged hub could create some rolling resistance.
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
This is the best video I've seen on this replacement procedure. Like one of the other commenters I seem to be having an issue with what seems to be my driver side not disengaging from 4wd. Getting a dull growl so will try to tackle this myself after watching this. Just waiting on my vaccuum gage to arrive
Awesome video, I wish I could have diagnosed it myself. Now I get to pay the Ford dealer to do the work. The noise sounded just like that with the loss of vacuum and there was moisture inside the IWE as well. I hope someone trained them to do it correctly. Thanks so much for the video.
Rick how are you doing? How much did the dealer charge you?
Excellent! My dad has a 2014 FX 4 with 198K miles and was making noise, intermittent , Thank you very much
Been trying to find a solution for that noise for 6 months and you nailed it!!! thank you so much
Hi Charlie,
Your welcome! Glad it helped you out!
Thanks for watching and supporting our channel!
~Ryan Wilsing
I replaced the iwe check valve and the solenoid
If I have to go to a dealer to get this done how much you think they’ll charge?
Amazing Video Friend, I searched for wheel end disconnect, came across your video nice explanation.
What an excellent video. Good dog you do so damn good. No unnecessary talk or video time, show all the crucial video and talking points. Damn. Loved this video
Thanks a ton Stevie!
~Mike
Big help Thanks!
Finally, someone shows how to grease it, and what to grease it with! Why is that step left out so often on YT videos??
Hey James, hard to say why so many leave it out. Service info doesn't directly call it out I guess. Either way, it's a must as part of the long-term fix!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Absolutely awesome and thank you so much for making this video. I was able to order the parts before hand and had everything ready. Then I watched this video as I went along making sure I hit all the right steps. I really appreciate it and it seems to have fixed my issue.
I am finally glad to see a video so plan and clear. This video shows every step of the process. I had to change these same exact parts. I didn't not what the noise was until I watched your video. Great video! It was truly helpful.
You are a life saver I just bought a truck and it start making this noise after I paid for it😢 now I know the problem is not that expensive
Very helpful video, very good step by step tutorial, thanks for providing the info regarding the grease use on this parts.
Hey Juan,
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for reaching out!
~Ryan
Thanks!
Excellent Video....now that I have a great idea as to what the problem is, I'll be able to talk with the service department and get the vehicle in for diagnosis and repair. It's really nice to see guys like you take the time to pull a video together like this. I'm betting rather than the short amount of time that it took you, I'm thinking about an all day job for me.. I'll be looking at the other videos on your web site.
Hello,
Thanks for the kind words and supporting our channel!
~Ryan Wilsing
@@GoTechTraining FYI... I had the occasional grinding sound in my hubs and took a chance on replacing the vacuum check valve located near the master break cylinder. Since the replacement, I haven't had any additional incidents with this grinding sound.... Roughly a $25 and 5 minute repair. Hope this helps others..
@@YT2007XYZ had a weird sound with mine also, it was just the valve also.
I have a vacuum gauge in the cab linked between solenoid and IWE's. This way I see if I have a leak and when there is vacuum to the IWE's. Recommend for anyone working this issue. This should be done AFTER you have tested the 4 components, IWe's, lines, valve, and tank. With gauge you are now monitoring the existence or not of vacuum. I have NOT connected a voltage gauge to monitor the solenoid voltage, but believe if you can to do so. A voltage gauge would confirm vacuum findings or point to the solenoid or voltage from upstream.
Hey Mike, thanks for watching! Sounds like you're chasing a tough one here!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
I am fixed because the components making up the system were checked and triple checked until satisfied. I disagree with the computer program which in 2WD and < 32 F. activates the vacuum 1/2 mile after starting the truck and leaving the house/store. This vacuum activation may be done under torque causing the gears to strip. I would [refer no delay but this is in the computer board.
Good idea! Can you make us a video explaining and show this setup and post a link to the video in the comment thread? Thanks so much!
Looked real good Mike. Could only see surface rust on the upper control arm. I was surprised how easy the nuts and bolts came off.
Hopefully that replacement cures the intermittent engagement problems and gear grinding.
Hey Mike, I try to keep my truck washed. Especially in the winter months! So far so good :)
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Nice presentation Mike. I had one of these IWE failure driving across Missouri on a hot 98 degree day. It sounded like the front end had fallen out on my 2003 Expedition. Seems like water enters the solenoid end, expanding when hot causing the IWE to engage. Scares the H#$L out of one. Probably not doing the axle teeth or IWE any favors also. FMC recalled the unit, placing a shield over the solenoid , keeping water above the cowling from entering the solenoids. Replaced both axles and IWE's and a couple check valves in the vacuum system. Seems OK , never has happened again.
Hey Robert, yeh the noise it makes is HORRIBLE. Like, pull over right now kinda noise! Glad to hear you got it all fixed up :)
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
@@GoTechTraining buenas tardes amigo tengo un problema con una lobo 2004 no entra la 4x4
Pretty straightforward job Mike,thanks for sharing it with us! 👍
Hey Nick, yeh these aren't too bad to do. Thanks for watching :)
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Bro... you are great on camera. Thanks!
Thanks man!
~Mike
Best mechanic I have ever seen.
Best video I've ever seen I wish you were close to my area so I could take you my 4 x4 for transit I did a Break job on it and from that moment I have not been able to enjoy my 4 by 4 Van My mechanic did a horrible job putting in those hobb bearings
Hey J Rouge, thanks for watching! If you were closer we could definitely get you all fixed up!
~Mike
Great video, trying to get my 2013 F-150 fixed and this made it so easy!
Excellent video. Explaination. Video angle-view. Perfect.
Woah thanks a ton Bradley, glad to hear you've enjoyed the vid!
~Mike
Great video. I need to find one of those vacuum tools so I can see if the iwe is the problem it maybe just a vacuum line. But now I know it's a fairly easy problem to fix. Thanks for putting this out
I’ve personally had more fail when adding grease. If the engineers wanted that much grease it would of come that way. I install these with what is supplied on it and have had no issues
Ditto.
AWESOME Vid, with the whole procedure done very well, including torques. THX!!!
Step by step, quick and easy, thank you ...🤘
Thanks for watching Vadim!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Great video! I will be doing this, this weekend!
i think i will just take off the vacuum lines and run it full time...thank you for the tip!!
Great video- thank you. After having both IWE on the front end replaced twice, I ended up going with a doorman kit that deletes the IWE. Minor change in fuel consumption (since the axles are always engaged), but hopefully solves the issue for good.
Mine are always spinning and it does enguage 4 x 4 when i switch on but i was under the impresson it would damage my truck to drive with fromt shaft and axels always spinning??
It runs and i just happen to smell gear oil so i changed rear it was fine "ofcourse lol" but the front was shot amd this is when i discovered they always spun is tgis ok
@@Dani-ELmaninnoboxes i wouldnt hesitate to do this. as long as the transfer case and front shaft aren't engaged you won't do any damage to the truck.
@@FBobby i actually used a brake bleeder 20 bucks worth of refrigerator parts to to engage and disengage,unfortunately the motor crapped out again so I took a total loan out and let em have it lol
But I appreciate u getting back
great video man.. I like the explanation of when you slip the gears back together on assembly. its kind of a sweet feeling but hard to explain it well.. great job dude!!! always enjoy the videos!
Charles Lewis
Can't thank you enough for the video and instruction. I replaced the drivers side on my 2015 lariat and its all quiet now. Just wondering if i should do the passenger side. It has 91000K on it. Great job Man!!
I just did both at the same time I only have 52000K on mine. The passenger side hub was in two pieces and the drivers side was so lose it would clack and visibly wiggle when you shook it. I would say these hubs have a max life span of about 3 years.
Thanks for the video. Saved me lots of money and made it a fun job for me. Wish I had a lift though!!
Mine isn’t really a clicking sound. It has more of a knobby tire sound. I hear it more when I’m coming to a stop between 0-20 mph. I’ve noticed when it’s colder out the noise starts sooner when breaking from like 0-40 mph. You can feel it in the whole drive line. Even feels like you are riding on knobby tires. When it’s 60° and above it hardly does it at all. Do you think this could still be related to the IWE’s? The truck is a 2016 F150 with 42k on it. Also has the 4A mode.
Did you figure out your issue? I’m feeling the same.
Great video, I have to change one of them, this video helped me a lot, thanks for sharing
Oh thank goodness you address the brake caliper bolts. Several I messed with had locktite, and were not torque to yield( I had trouble reassuring a customer that it was fine, so he spent the money on new bolts to even though I didn't think it was really necessary). The Torque to yield bolts are honestly a frickin joke.
Just seems like it's to make sure they are one time use only.…...what was wrong with normal bolts that didn't get stretched right to the edge of snapping off.
Wow. So far 1.1k views and zero thumbs down! Impressive! Nice job.
Hey Robert, they will come. The thumbs down haters always come. Thanks for watching and not being one of them :)
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
What if i replaced all that and a few months later, same problem! Did i get a bad actuator??
🙂🙂🙂🙂 Of course it is possible to get a defective part, but it may be that the part wasn't the issue to begin with. Anything that causes a loss of vacuum along the way from the engine to the hub can cause this issue. Alot of people jump to replacing the hub end. The vacuum lines can be cracked causing loss of vacuum (one particularly hard to diagnose place for vacuum line failure is where the line is held by a clip between the hub and engine bay, it will hold vacuum driving straight but the line shifts just enough when turning to lose vacuum when turning the wheel), the one way check valve can be bad (common fail) or the vacuum reservoir can have a leak. Important to test for holding vacuum all along the way... the one way check valve is like $10 and 2 minutes to replace and commonly goes bad... would be the first component I looked at before replacing hub end, hope this helps🙂🙂🙂🙂
We always appreciate your videos! Very little rust under that truck for your location...
Hey Johnaclark1, thanks, I always appreciate your comments! I try to keep it washed, and it's always garage kept. I think those 2 things help tremendously.
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Excellent topic for a video. As always... I learned something. I never like to 2nd guess or question automotive engineers for the decisions they make, but a vacuum design?
Hey Mark, thanks!!! Glad to hear you've learned something today. I enjoy the questioning of everything, it's in my nature to "ask why"...a vacuum design....WHY!?!??! haha!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Good video I’m having an issue getting the nut fully off the upper ball joint have tried everything loaded the suspension dropping the suspension pry bars have to get cut the nut off don’t really want to do that but my truck is much older than the one in the video and the corrosion and being outside and Winters have taken it’s toll I can see why my shop doesn’t wanna work on it etc.
Great Video. I have a 2006 and the line from the manifold to the Solenoid has collasped. What size is the line?
With the engine off, my 2015 Platinum doesn’t hold a vacuum, so my axle shafts are engaged. Check valve and solenoid are good. When I start it up the vacuum is there and my axles are no longer engaged. This is normal ya? Only asking because I’ve seen videos of the vacuum holding even when the truck is off.
Hey, the big thing you want to check is to make sure the IWEs aren't leaking. Are you dealing with an issue? You should be able to hook in right at that check valve and hold vacuum all the way down the line with a vacuum pump.
~Mike
@@GoTechTraining I actually plugged my pump in directly to the IWE and it held just fone
Bro I just want to tell you that the same sound came from my 2007 Ford F150 lariat just the other day and I had no idea what it was I want to thank you for this video because now I know exactly what to do I just wish my truck didn’t have as much rust as your vehicle being from Michigan salt you know what that’s like inside some pulling it apart I might as well replace a lot of the other parts because everything is rusted out just want to say thank you so much for the video now I know exactly what to do and what not to deal four thumbs up bro ok 👌🏼🔥🤠🔥Camping Russ out
Hey Camping Rus, thanks for reaching out man! That's awesome, hope you're able to get it all fixed up without issue!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Thank you so much for this video! It was a great step by step video that made the process really simple
Hey Grant, thanks for watching!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
I have never seen one of your videos before and I have to say I was impressed. I need this job done on my truck, and the job is a little over my non mechanical head, but at least I understand it enough that I can talk to my regular mechanic. Excellent video.
Hello, had a question, im getting a vibration in the left front when truck is cold, for about a mile or 2, it is intermittent, like if I were spinning a loose bearing and it chattered can that be the iwe going bad, also im getting a little noise when in 4wd, thanks Joe.......Also awesome video......
Thanks for sharing! Your video has a ton of information and good production quality 👍
I didn't have to replace mine until 198k miles, so I was happy about that.
very informative and helped me to know how to do this job.
2017 F-150 Getting ready to start this project, was dreading it until I watched your video. Question, drivers side is bad. While I have it up in the air should I replace the passenger side?
Hey Mike, thanks for watching! Man, I honestly would. You'll be in the air tools out, jobs fresh. It's a quick repeat on the other side. Then it's done...at least for a while ;)
~Mike
I love this video and am about to dig in but I’m confused about the wheel speed sensor right at the beginning.
You start by saying that before you lifted the vehicle you removed the ABS wheels speed sensor and it appears as if you did that at the hub. How did you get to that and why did you disconnect it first? I don’t even see where it connects to yet before ripping stuff apart.
Hey, yeh I didn't do a good job showing it...I unplugged the sensor connector from the body harness from under the hood. Way easier to access it that way.
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Awesome. I got it. It almost looked like it was disconnected at the hub. Makes sense.
Love your videos. Thanks.
Amazing video. Thanks much...gonna do it myself with the video's help. Any chance you could advise the torque down settings for putting Ball joint nut, the tie rod nut, and the hub nut please ?
Hey Joe, sure I'll pull the numbers for you. What year and engine in your f150?
~Mike
@@GoTechTraining Thanks so much. 2013 Ford F150 Lariat, 3.5 Ecoboost 6 cyl.
Hey Joe,
Ball joint nut (111 Lb-Ft) Tie-rod end nut (85 Lb-Ft) Hub Nut (20 Lb-Ft) , these specs are for a 4WD application.
@@GoTechTraining thanks so much sir
question on the solenoid that controls the IWE assembly.....with the truck running, should there be vacuum present in the output side (top) of the solenoid when in 2H mode? checked the vacuum supply and there is lots of vacuum being supplied to the solenoid. new ford solenoid installed. but no vacuum present on the output side (top) when switching from 2H to 4WD.
Great job of showing how to do this.
Thanks!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
That is one clean truck , good vid. Thanks
Just started hearing the same noise you are producing at the 6:00 mark, as of today and my truck will be getting looked at on Feb 15th, I’m hoping it’s the actuators that are bad!
Does disengaging the solenoid and taking the vaccum hose off keep it in 4w or 2 w drive
Hey Frank, great question. So taking vacuum away will engage the IWE's and lock the axle shafts to the wheels. That said, the truck will still be in 2wd because the transfer case won't send power to the front diff until commanded by the switch on the dash.
~Mike
Are you able to provide a part number for the upper control arm nut? I can't seem to find a listing for them. Thanks
Hey Nate, from what I'm seeing the part number from Ford is W520214S440. They call it MISC HARDWARE.
~Mike
My 2015 with 62,000 miles is making that grinding noise but it only does it in the first mile or so and it only lasts a second or so under light throttle. If I step on the gas it goes away which makes me think it is vacuum related. I replaced the check valve and solenoid and there was plenty of vacuum there so I’m thinking the iwe units themselves but need to get underneath and just see if anything looks obvious. If the truck fit in my garage I’d consider tackling this but don’t think I want to try this in the street if anything would go wrong. At least it only looks like a couple of hours to do both if I have to take it in. Thanks
Hey ScottyV1000, right, it shouldn't be too expensive of a job for a shop to do. The IWE's are relativly inexpensive.
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
And I was going to take it in! Thank you so very very much!
Hey Mick, hope this gave you the confidence to do it yourself!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
@@GoTechTraining It sure did! Till I saw your video I was asuming this was one I would not even attempt myself. I have watched the video 3 times, the parts are on order.
Definitely a great video great presentation straight to the point and explain of how it works
Thanks, this was awesome. Helped me decide to do the IWE on my '11. Only thing I had an issue with was getting the lower arm off. I ended up leaving it attached and was still able to get the fix done. The only thing I think would have helped would have been a mini how to on how to get the ABS sensor cable disattached. That took me an hour+ of puzzling out because I couldn't find anything on the web and pictures of the replacement part were less than helpful.
Anyways, thanks much for the video!
Just wanted to add something 2 months later. I think he mentions it in the video, maybe not. Anyways. If you're doing one, do the other. I just found out the hard way, and spent some extended time diagnosing trying to figure out. Off to do the other one.
My hub vacuum lines have been rubbed into with tires. Do you have a video on replacing these lines? Thanks.
Hey Allen, sorry we do not have a video covering the line replacement. Feel free to shoot me out an email if you're struggling. I could hook you up with the process from service info if required. Michael.becker@wellsve.com
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Nice job. Thank you for this. Great work
Excellent video!
Thanks Dafarm!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
I have no issues when I'm 4WD . But when I switched the selector knob to 2WD, the front wheel axles make a buzzin/grinding noise while driving.
Do you think is the actuators or vacuum lines.
Please help.
Hey LunchoFly, right thats super common to happen. In 4wd vacuum is shut off to the IWE/Hub locking them in. In 2wd vacuum needs to be applied to draw the IWE back off the hub. Use a vacuum pump on each IWE to determine if it's leaking.
~Mike
Thanks for the reply, I will try doing the test to see which side is faulty.
@@GoTechTraining I was having the same problem but Ford told me it’s my whole differential that’s shot
Great Video! Good content and quality shooting.
Thanks!!!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Thanks for the great Video. Really helps us that don]t wrench everyday
I have a 2006 f150... I changed the actuated hub and vacuum solenoid but it always makes that sound on the driver's side when he accelerated... I don't know if it's a hose leak because the hub and vacuum are practically new
Hey Oscar, hows the passenger side? Many times the noisy one is the one that's working and the other side is the one thats leaking.
Great video and information. I was having a issue with the front driver side iwe not disengaging and the front passenger side clicking. decided to just replace everything. hub assembly, iwe actuators, vacuum lines, check valve, and solenoid. I no longer have clicking on the passenger side but that drivers side is still no disengaging. Any thoughts? I've been searching everywhere to figure this out. I did notice that the front drive shaft has a little click/play to it. Any help and advise would be much appreciated. Mahalo nui loa from Hawaii
Hey Andrew, so the axle shaft is staying engaged to the hub at all times? With the truck running, see if theres vacuum leading to that side. Hard to imagine what it could be if everything is brand new.
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
@@GoTechTraining I’ll try that. Is there anything in the driver side cv axle or differential that could cause one side to stay engaged even if there is a vacuum that you know of?
Great explanation, do you have the replacement part number and what years are the same???
Great video!👍
Thank you! 👍
Excellent job! Wouldn't change a thing. Thank you!
Thanks for teaching us Mike🙏👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👋👋👋👋✌
Thanks for watching Salvador! :)
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
thanks from Chile!
Hey Favosorno, thanks for watching!
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Same this happening to my 2019 f150. Usually only when I turn hard left, but been starting to hear it while driving on the highway since it's got cooler. I won't be able to get it fixed for a week or 2 due to working in a remote area. What's the best advice to limp it along until I can fix it the right way?
Hi Brandon,
This system uses vacuum to dis-engage the axles. When it starts to fail the system leaks and looses vacuum. This causes the axles to stay partially engaged and causes the ratcheting noise. What you could do as a temporary band-aid to reduce damaged caused by the partial engagement, is to disconnect the vacuum going to the axles and plug the vacuum lines. But keep in mind this will keep the front axles engaged at all times.
I hope this helps!
~Ryan Wilsing
@@GoTechTraining okay. So then it would put me in 4 wheel drive, without actually being in 4 high correct?
Hi Brandon,
This will lock your axles to the hubs or wheels. But it won't be in 4-wheel drive because the transfer case will not be shifted and applying power the the front diff.
~Ryan Wilsing
@@GoTechTraining oh gotcha, that makes sense. Thank you very much for the responses and awesome video!
Job looks great, but I cannot get my tie rod to release, its a nightmare. Any tricks?
Hey Josh, sometimes they get pretty suck in there. If you use a pickle fork type of seperator you can damage the grease boot. I prefer to pound on the outside flange where the tie rod end goes through. Sometimes a few sharp whacks is enough to loosen the joint after the bolt is removed.
Mike Becker, Senior Instructor