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How to test the IWE system on a Ford F-150 (full guide)
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- Опубліковано 28 кві 2023
- In this video I show you how to test the full IWE (interlocking wheel end) system on a ford f150. This has been the primary 4 wheel drive system since early 2000's. the system is easy to under stand and easy to diagnose. This video I should have answered any questions you would have and gave demonstrations.
If you enjoyed the video please leave a like, comment, share and subscribe. Thanks!
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of JunkyardJunkie, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. JunkyardJunkie assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. JunkyardJunkie recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of JunkyardJunkie, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not JunkyardJunkie.
0:01 - intro
In the 2018 with the TCCM firmware update there is no vacuum until you drive for a couple of miles every time you start the truck. Warm up the engine and drive for at least two miles and then check your vacuum at the hubs before shutting off the engine.
Good information! I’ll pin this comment so others can see. Thanks for watching!
This is the best video explanation out there. You made this whole system easy to understand. Off to harbor freight to get my vacuum pump. Thank you so much for the pointers!
I’m glad I could help! Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
I agree 👍 very helpful
Amazing video
The vacuum check is the best/easiest video out there. My IWE went bad and got a new one with the check valve and hose.
Come to find out I had to switch the valve around in order for it to work....now no more rattling at my hub.
Thank you!!
Haha thanks! Im glad I was able to help and you got it all fixed. Thanks for watching!
Just ordered my pump. After it gets hear ill be checking my system. Been hearing noses off and on for sometime now. Will stay around the house until i check out my truck. Really liked the video.
You won’t regret it. These pumps are handy. Knowing what’s going on with your truck is priceless. Let me know how it goes. Thanks I’m glad I was able to help! Thanks for watching!
Bro this was brilliant.. I just bought a 2013 and this set my mind at ease on how to investigate. MUCH appreciated.
Haha thanks! That always means a lot. I’m glad I could help. The good thing is each part of the system is easy to do and cheap. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for posing this video. Very helpful in determining my IWE needs to be replaced.
I’m glad I could help! Thanks for watching!
This video was very well made and the problem was explained very well.
Thanks! I put a lot of effort to make it easier to understand and diagnose. Thanks for watching!
This is a great video thank you for doing this you really helped out. Some things are really easy once you know how they work.
Thank you that means a lot to me. You’re right once you know how it works and understand it, it’s actually pretty easy. Thanks for watching!
🤗 You just made my week. Front end grind off/on 2 weeks now. Thx so much for explaining, I think I've been driving this 2015 for 7 months with vac Leak and possibly hubs have been engaged the whole time. That might explaining the front end Vibration at times and the cat efficiency code i keep getting. Goig to order both parts tomorrow. I'm subscribed now ❤🙏🏽
I’m glad I was able to help! Thanks for watching!
Bought my 2014 f150 lariat and a few weeks later I heard this grinding sound. Bought a vacuum pump and turns out both IWES were bad. Thanks for the info! I've heard it's more common on trucks with the 4a option
Hey, I’m glad I could help! They all seem to just have issues overtime. Best of luck on the repair. Thanks for watching!
Thank you! Awesome video step by step. Very helpful!! ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching!
This is awesome… will be checking my vehicle this weekend. Was going to take it to the dealer, but those parts and labor prices are stupid. The worst part is the damage I’ll have to deal with after receiving my truck. They always dent, Knick, or scratch something!!! Never fails. Can’t see paying all that money and having to follow up behind those fools!!!
I’m glad I was able to help! Ya I would avoid a dealership. They’ll charge you an arm and leg and like you said having to go back after them to make sure. Let me know what it winds up being. Good luck. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video! Thank you
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching!
Excellent troubleshooting video!👍
Thank you! That means a lot. Glad I could help. Thanks for watching!
Excellent tutorial!
Thanks! Glad I could help. Thanks for watching!
Great video!
Thanks! I’m glad I could help. Thanks for watching!
Awesome vid. Thanks
Thanks. Glad I could help. Thanks for watching!
I loved how you explained the cause of the issue too. Great vid!
Thanks I really appreciate it. Glad I could help. Thanks for watching!
Great video! You described every step perfectly, I think I have problems with my 2016 because both front shafts and front drive shaft spin in two wheel drive. I'll do these test and hopefully find the culprit.
Thanks! That always means a lot to me. Yup sounds like you have a problem somewhere in the system. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
Great video on the vacuum checking of the lines and the hubs. one thing I think you missed is for the people who have intermittent issues or only have the IWE lose vacuum while driving. For me anytime I am stationary or run the system via the vacuum mityvac gauge, it checks out perfectly, zero lost pressure for 30 min and the solenoid works on command. Problem only shows up when driving. A suggestion for others is to T into the vacuum line ( don't cut it, just add a T and some extra hose) and run it into the cab so you can monitor when driving, particularly helpful with check valve issues. Another guy on UA-cam showed how vac would correlate with the engine rpm. If the vacuum starts to drop you can let off the gas to boost pressure back up. For me I replaced the check valve and solenoid anyway, but I think I hit the lottery and got a second bad check valve considering the erratic behavior. starts to lose vac (will follow engine rpm) and then after a few seconds will hold vac again reguardless of engine rpm. any experience with a really random vacuum issue on the IWE system would be appreciated.
Thanks for your input I appreciate it. So if it’s not the main three I focused on IWE, lines and solenoid then it’ll wind up being your check valve or vacuum reservoir. I briefly talk about how to check them. But in your case you may have gotten a bad check valve again. Let me know what you wind up doing and if it fixes it. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
yeah I got a Dorman brand replacement (lines and valve) for the first repair attempt and am going to try a Motorcraft brand valve the second time to see if I happened to have bad luck. The vacuum gauge in the truck cab has been the only way I can tell its about to engage, great for monitoring the issue. @@JunkyardJunkie
Let me know if the motorcraft one works out. But that is a good idea to have a gauge inside the truck to tell and ting in wouldn’t be that difficult ether.
An update for you and others out there with this issue a more sporadic vacuum loss ( typically only shows up when lugging the engine. It was indeed the old original old part and the brand new Check valve from Dorman that was the issue. The Dorman brand check valve actually fell apart in my hands at only the slightest effort. I was about to pull off the hoses so I could replace just the check valve component rather than the hose assembly and it split in two. Upon further inspection it seems that there was either very little glue or weldment with one section that appeared to not have any residual bond/glue . It is likely that the rubber valve wasn't working well because it was likely leaking around the joint between the two plastic pieces, or overall a bad part. The Motorcraft brand which is the original MFG part (ford logo imprinted on it ) was a great deal better constructed. see link for those of you needing this style ~$14 ( a.co/d/aJUZkOd )
I would say that if your system holds vacuum but loses it when driving or very intermittent, its most likely the check valve.@@JunkyardJunkie
Liked and subscribed bud. Thanks alot for such a thourough explanation. Other keyboard junkies can send you astray. This is the difinitive video. Bought 35s for my 17 been pretty quiet now i have a humming boardering on roar in the front hope this is the fix. No play what soever in bearings. Good video brohemianrhapsody
Thanks that means a lot! Glad I was able to helps. Thanks for the like and sub!
Yessir cracked selenoid and broken plastic. Bypassed with metal straw and the Iwe worked!! Thanks again buds
Well done, thanks.
Glad I could help. Thanks for watching!
YOU ARE A TIGER.... !!! THAT HELP ME A LOTTTTTTTT, THANKS 120 %
Glad I could help. Thanks for watching!
Thank you, Great video!
Thanks! Thanks for watching!
Nice video
Thanks! Glad I could help. Thanks for watching!
Great video.
Thanks, I appreciate that. Thank you for watching!
My iwe wasn’t disengaging even though it held vacuum. The inside was broken in half. New one installed and it’s fine now!
i have no idea how to appreciate you i have same problem no mechanic in columbus ohio can figure it out even the dealer they said everything okay although the noise comes and goes ,, thank you so much
I’m glad I was able to help! Good luck. Thanks for watching!
Yup same it’s like they don’t even know it exist its weird like I’m doing my own research. Everything else around the suspension area has been checked out including I got new wheel bearings cause they were bad so I’m sure it’s the iwe, I’m just not sure if it’s the vacuum lines and sylenoid and all that stuff too? But this helps!
Well done.
Thank you that means a lot. Glad I could help. Thanks for watching!
Thank you bro
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching!
thank you!
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching!
Great Video, that is exactly what I hear from my truck. Any chance you have part numbers?
Sorry not off the top of my head but a quick search everything will pull up. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
Great Video!!
How long should the IWE hold a vacuum? it slowly goes down over a matter of 10 minutes. Also, the grinding goes away when I put it in 4wd when driving. Is that a definite sign that its the IWE system and not a front Diff bearing?
Thanks!! But if it holds for that long it’s good I would worry about that. Now I would check everything else in the video. Does it get the proper amount of vacuum? From what you’re telling me I do believe it will most likely be in the IWE system. But of course more diag is needed. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Same here in my 2017 f150.
That’s good to know. Glad I could help. Thanks for watching!
2012 Lariat with 4WD Auto - just tested everything and and all my hoses are holding vacuum no problem. When I hook up to the IWE on my front driver side, it will not disengage out of 4WD regardless of vacuum pressure. Any ideas?
It’s holding vacuum just fine so it doesn’t seem like the IWE is bleeding pressure whatsoever
Ya that’s a strange one but no matter what if you’re applying pressure where I showed you on the IWE, then it has to be a bad IWE. I can’t think of what the failure would be atm but check the other side if it does disengage then that’s another definitive answer. Best of luck keep me updated on this. Thanks for watching!
Is it possible to have a bad IWE Vacuum Reservoir? Replaced the Solenoid and the check valve. Did a vacuum test on the lines running to the actuator and they’re good but get no vacuum when switching to 2wd. I do get a click in the solenoid.
Have you checked the vacuum before the solenoid to make sure it’s working correctly? That’s where I would start. Then we can determine what isn’t working properly. In more rare instances the solenoid can click but still be failed inside. Let me know and I’ll try to help. Thanks for watching!
I noticed on my ford f-150 2010 xlt that the solenoid under the hood on the driver side had the vacuum hose and connector disconnected, so I plugged it back in and when I drove I noticed what sounded like a clicking like noise, can that be the hub or can it be the solenoid under the hood?
Sounds like the solenoid is working. Sounds like a faulty IWE or vacuum line (they deteriorate with time). Whoever had it before you must have unplugged it so they didn’t have to worry about fixing it. Good thing is if you follow this video you can verify it, so you don’t just throw parts at it. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
Some models have it on the passenger side, near the battery
Yup this is true
I believe my passenger side iwe is leaking down and plan to replace it. My question is, if I bypass it for now will the front driveshaft be rotating the entire time I'm moving? I know the cv shafts will but can't picture whether the front driveshaft will as well. Reason I ask is because my front shaft tore the boot near the transfer case. I'm guessing it's because it's constantly rotating and shouldn't be? Btw it's lifted.
Yes your driveshaft will also turn. So unfortunately you will want to go ahead and change your IWE. Also anytime you lift a truck especially if it’s a big lift it puts way more stress on many different parts. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
I noticed a hissing sound under my hood. When I checked, the the vacuum line that is connected right under the solenoid that you described going down to the wheel basically deteriorated. I know I need to get a new one installed ASAP. Will this cause issues while driving in 2WD or with my CV joint on that wheel since the line is open and continues to blow air out? I hear some popping noise now in my CV joint and think it may be related. I am not a mechanic by any means. Thanks for any advice!
Yes if your having issues with the line to your IWE driving in 2wd will cause grinding and eventually wear out the IWE or the cv axle where they mesh. Popping from cv axle will most likely be the cv axle itself is the issue. Go and turn in circles and see if you hear the cv axle clicking. If so time to replace. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
2020 F150 here: I have replaced the solenoid and have verified vacuum at the IWE’s with a hand pump. They hold 24-25lbs of mercury fine.
The issue I have is two parts. The solenoid vacuum lines that hook into the solenoid are only pulling 15lbs of Vacuum. If I leave the bottom solenoid line on and pull the upper solenoid line off there is vacuum on the line pulled off but nothing through the solenoid.
If I’m understanding this correctly the solenoid upper port is supposed to be pulling in vacuum?
2nd issue is neither vacuum line at the hubs will hold any vacuum with a vacuum tool. Is it odd to have both lines not holding any vacuum?
Hey sorry for the late response. But so your IWE’s are fine. Now then yes line in the middle is what send vacuum down to the hubs. If there’s no vacuum there check the bottom hose and make sure there is vacuum there. If there is then you will need to replace the solenoid itself.
Also in the video I show to switch from 2wd to 4wd and you should hear the solenoid click. (Clicking doesn’t mean it’s good but is usually a good indicator) so first do the step above and see where we are at. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
In your video, when checking the vacuum line, couldn’t you have had a bad IWE on the other side causing it to not hold vacuum?
Yes sorry I should have included to check both sides. I thought I did say it. Thanks for watching!
Any chance you would actually be able the hear pressure escaping from a bad line?
For the most part no with it being a vacuum. But, I’m sure there’s some ways you might hear it. But if you do the check in the video and it shows bad I’d go ahead and replace it. It’s one full piece. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
What was the part number for the part you replaced please? Great video!
Thanks! Part number is: HL1Z-3C247-A
Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Hello, I'm running the exact same set up as you at minute 7:00, I'm holding a vacuum but the CV is still spinning. Is this an issue with the actuator or something?
So your holding vacuum and it doesn’t drop off? Your IWE should be bad if your pulling vacuum and the cv axle does spin with the the tire. Even if somehow it reads correct if your applying vacuum to it and it’s not working it would be a faulty IWE. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
i’m hearing a popping noise from my left side then sometimes on the right but when i’m in 2wd my cv axles spin i think it might be the vacuum check valve and i’m replacing both of my hub actuators need help plz
and when i put it in 4 high i don’t hear no clicking noise only hear it when i go too 4 low and back too 2 wheel drive
So it does sound like you’re having issues in the system. follow along with the video and diagnose it this way you don’t waste money on parts you don’t need. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Mine is only pushing 17 inches of mercury in 2wd, is that a problem? I replaced both IWE’s, lines on each side, and check valve. Drove for about 1,000 miles and issue is back… put vacuum on top line and it holds no problems at all. Please help!
17 is low but should be enough to keep it from engaging though. So if you put vacuum at the top line going to the IWE’s and it’s holding we can rule out that whole lower part. First I would start by roving the check valve and put the gauge at the vacuum source itself. If that reads good then all that’s really left would be vacuum reservoir. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
I have a intermittent grinding noise. Sounds like driving on snow. I replaced check valve with valve and hose from oreillys and a new solenoid. I bought a vaccum pump but it seemed to big to check at iwe. I seen you did zip tie so maybe ill try it again. But i did test it from up on top at vaccum lines that go to the iwe and pumped and it seem to work fine. Does that mean my iwe is good since it engaged and disengaged and help proper vaccum or can testing at iwe have a diffrent result? Im just at witts end trying to figure it out. Thanks
So if you checked both IWEs with a vacuum pump and they both operated correctly and didn’t lose vacuum then they’re fine. But did you check the vacuum that’s be drawn through the lines to the IWE like I showed in the video? Because a lot of times that will be your problem is they can’t hold enough vacuum. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@JunkyardJunkie i was only able to check the lines that come off the solenoid that goes down to the iwes and it was fine/held air. I wasn't able to check directly at the iwe itself cause i didn't have a zip tie. I guess what i was asking is it possible it get a diffrent result at the iwe itself even though it worked fine with the vacuum lines that go down there from the solenoid. The hise that came with pump is to big for the iwe nipple. Wasnt a tight seal and couldnt get a reading.
Oh ok I misunderstood. So if you’re able to pull a vacuum from the top and it holds then we can rule out the bottom half of it. Just to make sure it’s the IWE system (even though I’m sure it is) drive around in 4wd and see if there is no more noise (as long as there isn’t we know for certain it’s in the system). So if that’s where you’re at, I would then proceed to check the vacuum coming from the solenoid. If it’s not producing enough vacuum or losing it while driving then we can trouble shoot further. Hope this helps.
Will this cause the check engine light on?? Cuz mine has this symptoms bun no check engine light
No this won’t cause a check engine light unless it detects the solenoid is bad. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Where can I find a replacement line that goes down to the wheel? I can find all of the other components all day long but I cannot isolate the line that goes to the wheel - line with the vent...
Here you go: ford.oempartsonline.com/oem-parts/ford-vacuum-tube-bl3z7a785a?origin=pla&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwq86wBhDiARIsAJhuphkiCpktMEJZJoxHOBcav0R-7GkJ9KifLnB_L5m3O7W-XgXQtEFrSKgaAgcTEALw_wcB
If you want to get it somewhere else part number is: BL3Z-7A785-A
Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
I had a noise that went away when I put it in 4a. I changed the check valves, it still made the noise for about 3 days , then stopped. I can't understand why it just stopped , it was a truck I just bought with low miles..maybe it was from sitting a long time?
Was it a grinding noise? The way you described I believe it’s something that would still be a problem. With the truck on and in 2wd jack it up and see if the front wheel will spin freely. If everything works correctly then I wouldn’t worry about it. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie yeah the tires spin, 4wd is working also. Strange lol
Hi there, I've been getting stuck pretty badly in the sand in the past camping trips while i was pretty confident about the performance of my 4WD been pulling many cars that are bogged into the sand, I've changed both IWEs + check valve & solenoid but no luck there are times when I'm on 4L hitting the gas to the floor it does nothing at all also the are times it feels like an ABS breaking to slow down the speed , when the car is lifted on the jack all 4 wheels are turning but no luck in the sand , any help will be very much appreciated
Thanks
Unfortunately these heavy trucks even with 4wd don’t help much with sand. Wish I had more help. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie I've replaced all vacuum lines today with new ones couldn't really know whether the 4WD is working like it use to or no , honestly I'm completely lost into this problem
I have a big problem too in the driver side front tire it feels like is grinding or mowing something inside I was thinking about broken hub Bering but now watching this video I don’t know what to think any idea
Ya I would unhook the vacuum lines from the solenoid (this way 4 wheel drive is always engaged. If you still hear grinding coming from the hub area then it’s your wheel bearing if it goes away it’s either your IWE or the vacuum lines itself. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Thank you I’ll do that today
@@josmarthetreeguy4966what ended up fixing it?
@@georged1085 yes it was the 4x4 actuator bearing
@@josmarthetreeguy4966 glad you got it fixed!
So I put new vacuum lines on, new solenoid… I have vacuum down to my wheel hub and my tire spins freely without the Axel spinning but I still have the sound. Would that be a bad knuckle on my Axel?
Is it constant? Does it get louder the faster you go? If so you may want to look at the wheel bearing. If not then you may need to check the cv splines and the IWE splines. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Stupid question, not did you replace the check valve?
Ford has a service bulletin out solely for the check valve. I just replaced mine and everything stopped.
@@-strick996 yea, replaced that as well
@@JunkyardJunkie I believe it was the wheel bearing, loudest one I’ve ever heard lol
no vacuum on the top line even after changing solenoids. what do you think the problem could be?
Pull the check valve out and check the vacuum line itself is getting proper vacuum. Let me know. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkiesame here, I have lots of vacuum and ordered a new solenoid but doesn’t seem to switch. Any idea if there is a fuse or other connection for power? I hear transfer case click no problem.
Good video. I'm just learning about this system. No issues right now.
Couldn't this truly have been designed such that the default is no vacuum and 2wd and vacuum is needed for 4wd? Thus saving further damage of parts?? Seems upside down thought process relying on zero leaks to maintain 2wd.
Thanks! I’ve thought the same thing a bunch of times. But there’s a few things that comes to mind. One thing is they want it to be a fail safe. if it fails you’d be safer off be stuck in 4wd rather than 2wd. Then I think about how they would replace it and logically I think they would switch from a vacuum system to an electrical system which would have its own pros and cons. But that’s just my thinking. Hope this video helps. Thanks for watching!
How much vacuum should the system be pulling. I’m getting about 12.. (I have the bad grinding at low speeds, everything else checks out, vacuum line holding fine, actuators holding vacuum fine) would the low vacuum pull be the issue?
Yes low vacuum would cause intermediate grinding noise. 12 is low. mine was at 12 I replaced the lines and now it’s at 24 give or take. Are you getting 12 at the solenoid? If so you’ll want to check the check valve or vacuum tank and vacuum source. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie yeah it’s at the solenoid. I just replaced the check valve so I have to assume it’s the vacuum source
@@matthewuchiyama2380 have you figured it out?
@@georged1085 no. I plugged the vacuum lines and still have the noise intermittently. No clue
@@matthewuchiyama2380 dang. Let me know and good luck
Anyone info on why I’d be getting vacuum to one hub but low vacuum (5) to the other? After replacing everything?
if you replaced everything new then there should be no reason you’d get low vac on passenger side (you replaced the lines right?). My only thought is a leak in the vacuum line on its way to the passenger side. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie ya, replaced solenoid, check valve, both actuators and just did the line, pulling high vacuum on drivers side, but hardly any on passenger side.
Did you replace the check valve
Ya I replaced everything, turns out the first hub I replaced was bad. I mean the new one I replaced it with was bad too, then replaced everything not knowing the new hub was never good. I didn’t really know what I was doing the first go around.
But it’s all working now, thanks for the help from everyone
Hi guys. I'm stumped. I get the chatter on the highway, and usually in cruise. The lines all hold vacuum. Replace the check valve. Checked the solenoid function. Checked the reservoir. One thing I do notice is my vacuum on idle goes from 14-18 and back to 14. I am also only getting 14-18 from the brake booster T split to the check valve. Is that high enough? On idle? My scan tool shows a pretty constant 17? oddly. There is also a hiss on acceleration that I can't seem to locate. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Did you replace the check valve with motorcraft one? I just had someone use Dorman and said it was bad right out of the box. As for the hiss I would use smoke to find it. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie Hi! Yes I did use a Motorcraft replacement. Smoke is a great idea, thank you.
Hey any luck? I'm in the same boat. everything is holding vacuum.@@cpspec3004
@@cpspec3004did you ever figure it out?
@@georged1085yeah?
I have a 2010 ford f150 4x4 5.4. I hope you read this: I have had a 'bwannnk, bwanbwannnnk" inconsistent grinding noise. I have replaced my transfer case actuator (was getting the wrench sign, but that solved that and allowed me to go into 4 wheel drive). I replaced the vacuum solenoid and the check valve and it's accompanying lines. I am getting a little over 20 lbs or inches or whatever it is at the solenoid. I have replaced both iwe's (the left one had come a part). Still making the noise. I have put a test on the line going to the iwe's and they are now holding vacuum (wasn't before iwe's being replaced). I put the pump on the line, pumped it to about 20, then tucked it away in the nook under the solenoid and drove down the road. When I got back, it had lost all vacuum. I pumped it again, and it pumped up again and held, so it wasn't the tightness of the hookup of the pump to the iwe line. My question is this, could it have lost vacuum without there being a compromised component? I have a new line I just got from Ford, and a mechanic is going to install it tomorrow. I am hoping this solves my front grinding noise. Btw, when I put it into 4 wheel drive, the noise goes away.
So sounds like your lines will most likely be the problem here. But what happened after he installed them?
@@JunkyardJunkie They definitely were bad. I am now getting a suction sound when I disconnect from the solenoid, and I put the pump on them and drove with pumped to 20 and it held. HOWEVER, it is still making the noise. So since I replaced the whole IWE system and the transfer case actuator, and the noise goes away when I i put it in 4 wheel drive, I am taking it to a front end man tomorrow. I am HOPING it is the cv axles making the noise, because anything else could get into some serious money. Will let you know..
I’m sure it’ll be ok. Best of luck!
@@JunkyardJunkie Welllll, that depends on what you call "ok". It was 4 quarts low on transmission fluid. The noise has pretty much gone away, though every little bit it appears again. I'm gonna drive it and see what happens. I am thinking it may need a filter change too, but heck, I don't know. It has one of those transmission fluid level checks that has to be done under the truck. The mechanic showed me the dipstick (a little short yellow plastic one). It had some fluid on it when he took it out, but when the tried it again, it was dry. We'll see!
7:00 I gotta do this but was the vacuum line leaking due to the zip tie
No mine was not. But I would recommend using one of the small cone adapters because 8/10 it will usually will leak. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Ok cool. I'm getting ready to do lines and iwes. I have everything bypassed right now, actually works quite well but I don't wanna take the gas mpg hit. @@JunkyardJunkie
That makes sense.
LoL I post a video on my channel using two 222 long rifle bullets. Man it works lol. I know it's trashy but it will work until new parts come in@@JunkyardJunkie
Haha that’s awesome
so what if i hear no air coming out my vacuum tank when i pull the plug out?
Check for vacuum at the check valve if you have vacuum there then replace the tank. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie also a shop just recently installed my lift, and this noise never happened before and the day i got my truck back it started happening, i guess it could also be a leak somewhere since they had to remove those lines and connect them back perhaps?
Would there be air coming out of the tank if the vacuum line going to the wheel is broken?
isn't vacuum is when pistons travel down and pull air from the intake? so how come now vacuum is pushing air to the solenoid not pulling??
Any pulling of air creates a vacuum. It’s not pushing air it’s pulling air negative pressure to the components. The solenoid opens and allows the vacuum to continue to the IWES or closes and shuts off vacuum. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
yes sir but you said the check valve allow air to go only to the solenoid not the other way around and i think it’s the opposite since the suction is coming from vacuum line I’m really confused @@JunkyardJunkie
Yes you’re thinking correctly I may have misspoke when recording. If so my bad.
I just replaced my solenoid vacuum because I wasn't getting vacuum on the 2nd port on top then I installed a new vacuum solenoid and the way home I didn't feel or hear it difference while i drove home and the next day the 2nd port stopped getting vacuum on the new solenoid. I wonder if it's my lines coming from the iwe to the solenoid are dirty or got a leak and sucked in debri that caused my NEW vacuum solenoid to not get vacuum on the top 2nd port. HAS ANYONE had that issues before?
Also noticed that both sides of the iwe are engaged so it looks like I'm in 4x4 thought it would be just the driver side buts it's both sides. I'm going to have to dig down deeper what's causing the passenger side to get stuck also. Wonder if anyone is having these similar issues
From what you’re saying it’s most likely the vacuum lines. But like in this video you can check to see if your getting vacuum at the bottom of the lines (remember ones a vent). If you get no vacuum check at the solenoid see if it has vacuum there if so then you know the vacuum lines are bad. (Which they tend to go bad over time). Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@JunkyardJunkie I recently check all my vacuum line, iwe and everything checked s out good with the vacuum tester. I noticed that the connector that connects to the iwe solenoid reads 11.8 volts with the key On engine Off and that releases my iwe to the wheel and spins freely but when I turn the engine on it drops down to 5.9 and it does NOT release my wheel when I connect it back to the solenoid. Wondering why does it work with the engine off but not on. I saw another video that IWE needs to get reprogrammed something called the TSB
@@johnalonzo3564fixing to replace my iwe and vacuum lines. Following this. Let me know what you figure out, good luck
@georged1085 I diagnosed everything on the vacuum lines to the valve to the solenoid but my issues seems its going to be electrical because when my key is ON eging off at the connector that goes to the iwe solenoid im getting 11.8 or 12 volts and that releases my iwe to spin my wheel free but when I turn on my truck the connector get 5.9 volts and locks up my iwe to the axles like if I switched on my 4x4 so and saw another video about this and seems like a update issue to get reprogrammed. A couple of months ago my friend in a GMC has similar issues but his whole dash lit up like a Christmas tree. He has to take it to the dealer. I might have to do the same thing. But I'll post it here if anyone has those issues
Anyone know why I have the intermittent grinding sound. I checked the actuators with a vacuum gauge, each holding pressure. Checked my lines, each pulling pressure. This was yesterday and then i put it back together and I didn’t have any grinding for the rest of the day. Today I drove to work, heard the grinding, checked pressure and everything was good again. Could it be my cv axle?
Doubt it would be your cv axle. Another thing to check is to put your vacuum gauge on the line at the bottom again and have some rev it up and keep throttle at 2k-2.5k see if there’s any dropping. Also what are the actual readings you’re getting? Because you can have some vacuum but not enough to keep it working properly. So, if you’re pulling like 22 inches of mercury. Down at the bottom of the lines on both sides. It should be pretty much the exact same unless your lines have a small hole somewhere. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie I was pulling I believe 17 but I can check again
@@JunkyardJunkie update. My passenger line is pulling 12 and my driver side is pulling 15. But if they both hold pressure would this suggest there’s a problem with my actual vacuum pump?
From my experience that’s low what are you getting at then solenoid itself? If it’s over 20 go ahead and replace the lines to the IWE’s. This is pretty common but at least it’s easy to change.
@@JunkyardJunkie I haven’t checked the solinoid yet. I have heard the clicks. I’ll check it around 1pm and lyk. Thank you for your help!!
Why did you change vacuum testing tools
Because I wasn’t at the shop when I used the mightyvac one. It would have been fine to keep using the one I had for the other tests. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Where did you get the vacuum pump?
Here’s the mighty vac I used: Mityvac MV8500 Silverline Elite Automotive Test Kit Provides both Vacuum and Pressure to Perform Engine Performance Diagnostics, Brake Bleeding, Fluid Transfer, Evacuation, Windshield Repair Jobs a.co/d/10b8kSP
But you can also use a cheaper one from harbor freight: www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-63391.html
Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@JunkyardJunkie thank you sir!
Anytime!
Anyone know if a blown fuse could cause problems?
The only piece of the whole system that would be affected by this is the solenoid. But, if you follow the video
You will be able to figure out what the problem is, so there is no guessing. Best of luck. Thanks for watching!
Thanks, great video
Thanks!
Followed the video and my solinoid doesnt audibly switch. And when pulling the line off there is zero vacuum. Bad solinoid it seems
Yup sounds like it. Glad I could help. Thanks for watching!
Any luck with swapping it out?
Now to get my mechanic to watch this and fix mine . when it engages I get a nasty bitter oil smell , what could that be coming from
Haha right? So I would go under it and inspect it. See if maybe one of your cv shafts are slinging grease. Or see if you have a leak at your front diff. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Mine pops when going in 4 wheel and start driving
If it keeps popping it could be your cv axle. Thanks for watching!
Comment
Thanks for the comment! Should help the algorithm. Hopefully I helped. Thanks for watching!
Please explain me how you expect to have 25 inches of mercury in both wheels lines once splitted? It has no sense, the 12 inches of mercury you got is correct because the 25 are divided to the half.
Because that’s coming down from the line pulling the vacuum. You may have some vacuum loss. But, it’s not going to be 13 inHg. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Great video on a terribly designed system.
Thank you. I’m glad I was able to help! Thanks for watching!
Great video!!
Thank you!