Mike, this is one of the best recorded, narrated and edited videos that I think I have seen on UA-cam about jobs in a D3 and I have seen many. Really enjoyed watching this. I am in the process of changing my engine with the body off so also doing a lot of preventive jobs of which this is on the list too. Many thanks Simon from the NE of Scotland UK 👍😎
I’m loving these step-by-step instructions and explanations. I have an 06 LR3 and these videos have been such a tremendous help. I’ve had pretty much all the exact same issues as covered in these videos. BIG THANKS!
Excellent video! I did this service on my 2007 LR3 HSE, 105k miles. Metal pan, new filter, all solenoids, tube seals, bridge seal the whole works. The only thing I did different, was use the Ford style gasket, Ford Part #: BL3Z7A191C or FEL-PRO TOS18753 also works. This gasket has an aluminum frame with a silicone seal. Run some small zip-ties through a few bolt holes to hold the gasket in place during install. I did NOT need to raise the transmission to fit the pan. I somehow finagled it in there with little problem. And, YES, the sleeve is a B-Word. Practice with the old one on the bench before install. I had to pry on mine much harder than I thought I should. Nice work!!!
My pan is leaking at gasket..Had my doubts about a paper gasket without any additional sealant but choose to follow everyones lead..That 7 ft lb torque spec is a joke IMHO, especially since half the bolts aren't accessible for a torque wrench. After 2 attempts at tightening them I'm going out to check for leaks. I'll try this Ford gasket if it is, but I won't be happy about it. I'll need at least 1 more bottle of ATF to compensate the spillage and leaking. I appreciate the stock #. This is the poster child example of a live and learn experience, and paying for an education one way or another.
Are these gaskets similar in design? Would you install them without any additional sealant? Or perhaps a thin coat of PermaTex gasket sealant above/below to keep it in place and add peace of mind for installation? As to that sleeve, absolutely a PITA. I learned finally that it must be aligned so that inner plastic tab is on the bottom, otherwise the white locking tab won't engage when trying to push it back up. A paint pen mark helped to get it right. Also figured a go around for that nightmare shield bracket re-install...There's a comment about that somewhere on this string.. Thanks again for your help. We backyard mechanics need all the help we can get.
Awesome video I just took my 2005 110k miles to service and they told me I had to rebuild the whole tranny for 5k$, my only 2 issues dwnshift 2-1st gear and 3-4, im about to do this exact service myself and this video couldnt be better! Thanks a lot ill watch it at least another 3-4 times, that should help the algorithm! 😂
Hugo, were you able to do this transmission service and did it help your shifting? I'm looking at an LR3 that starts having shifting problems after 10 mins of driving.
Hugo, mine was doing the exact same thing. After removing my transmission, I took it apart, and my eclutchs were burnt. This causes 4-5-6 slips. Sounds like whats going on with yours. Did yours continue to slip 3-4? I hear it's common on this 6hp26 transmission. The bushing wears out. So I swapped to a junkyard tranny, swapped the computer, thru it in, and now I have slip on 3-4 again when rpm to high. Fml. I want to know if this is seleniod issues or that bushing and e clutches. I've reset adaptions, but has not corrected issue so far in a week.
This is a really good mechanical DIY video I've seen, and I've seen quite a few Sir! You explain everything like a really good teacher! Not missing anything! Keep it on! Great job!
This really is one of the best videos out there setting out what and how to do this very necessary service on a D3/LR3 transmission/gearbox. The very calm and clear direction is very helpful. Well done.
Great video! I've recently picked up a 05 LR3. Been doing a bunch of work with the suspension / air suspension. Your videos have been very helpful. The issue I have is when I accelerate quickly sometimes the truck seems as it may be changing gears too quickly which causes the truck to have a loss of power feeling. The truck has 97k on it so maybe its time for a trans service!
Fantastic video. Also live in Vegas. Your video gave me the knowledge to attempt this pan swap and flush on our old now my daughters new LR3. Did the service with a mechanic friend on a lift in his shop. I don't think it would have been much fun on the ground. Not terribly difficult however we had a heck of a time with the mechatronic sleeve installation. It came out fairly easily. Installation was an absolute bear. Used large breaker bars trying to press the sleeve in and ended up damaging the new sleeve. It was aligned with the locating tabs so that wasn't the issue. Ended up swapping the O rings from the new sleeve and put them on the old sleeve. Fingers crossed that it doesn't leak. After an eternity of careful prying we came up with the idea to use a large washer on the outer end of the sleeve to displace the prying force. It worked. Both of us are big strong guys and had a heck of a time with this. At least for us the sleeve installation was not that easy. Hopefully this washer idea can help someone else who is struggling with this installation. Thanks again for an amazing tutorial. Looking forward to seeing your LR3 repair adventures. ***Bonus tip. We used PVC ratcheting cutters to cut the pickup tube. Worked like a charm.***
I love your video. Very thorough and for a non mechanic you know allot. Thank you sir I don't even have a land rover but love learning videos like this.
This has to be one of the best DIY videos ever made. I just got a 139k 2006 LR3 and I know it needs the complete service you just did. Live in AZ and just waiting for summer to end to tackle this project. Thanks again!!!
Slick trick with that breaker bar, thanks Mike! Been putting off doing this for a long time, but finally got it done. New tube and bridge seals, rebuilt the mechatronix with a Sonnax Zip kit, new solenoids, new seperator plate, new filter, pan, and a Lubelocker gasket from Summit Racing. This is not a job for the faint of heart. Once you start, there is no stopping - you have to push through. Hardest part for me was getting the ridiculous heat shield bracket off. I now know why yours only had 3 bolts holding it in place. The two back bolts are obstructed by the shift cable on one side and the front propshaft on the other. It will only come off if spoken to in French..😂 I ended up cutting slots into the back holes of the bracket so I only have to loosen the back bolts and slide the frame backwards to get it off the next time I have to do a filter replacement. Thanks again! Hope Aspens Landy is going strong!
Great video, great angle shots and so informative. As a 2008 LR3 HSE owner you sure gave me the confidence to go ahead and do mine. Appreciate all the details.
Thank you, Ron. Be sure to catch the upcoming video where I do an adaptation relearn procedure on the transmission. I was wrong in this video when I said to “just drive it like a granny“.
Excellent video, nicely done. I did the exact job 2 years ago on my LR3 and it saved my transmission. I recommend cleaning the gasket surface and tapping the holes before installing the valve body also raise the transfer case at the beginning of the job it helps with removal and cutting the filter neck. Great video and great job👍🏻
Fantastic video! Thanks heaps mate ! I did this exact repair with your videos help and my hi-light was when I finally saw the pan flute !!My LR is running so smooth now. I didn’t clear adaptations even though I do have a gap tool I was too nervous and just drive it consistently and one hi-way car trip. One tip I have on refilling the fluid is to remember keep engine running and only turn off after filler plug is back in. I turned off engine before plug installed and all the fluid gushed out. Cheers
Great video. Good tip for installing the gasket is to zip tie it in place and then clip them off as you go along. If you use skinny ties, it works quite well.
So thorough and well done. I have watched the British Atlantic video for the same service and you went into even more detail! Thank you and we'll done!!
Brilliant! Very detailled, slow enough to follow up and to understand everything, very precise. Perfect sound and video quality. I am sure that this was a lot of work and effort. Thank you!
Hey Mike. Love your meticulous attention to detail. A word of warning to others searching YT for guidance on changing the pan. Most are on L322s which have unrestricted access to the pan torx bolts, others are on LR3/4s which are the same as L320s RRSs, which I have (3.6 TDV8 UK model). I found only one vid on an LR320. However, that vid nor the LR3/4 vids are on cars fitted with a Dynamic Anti-Roll (Sway) Bar which sits tight in front of the forward, non-removabe, cross member and properly blocks access to the most forward pan bolts which I'll call 1-5. Access to the corner bolts 1 and 5 is finr, and the middle bolt 3 is getable through a convenient hole in the cross member. Bolts 2 and 4 are the serious problem because of the DARB cylinder. I spent a whole day getting those two out and I can only hope I that I can get the new bolts in when I refit the pan. I let you know how i get on.
Very good video, currently I am looking to buy a LR3/4 and planned to do all the maintenance by myself. Looking forward to see the next video. Greeting from the Netherlands 🇳🇱
One of the best car maintenance videos I’ve ever watched. I don’t own a LR Discovery, nor do I need to perform a gearbox service but I was captivated by this video. Thank you for opening my eyes to a job I never knew existed. Any chance you can do similar videos on a classic Alfa Romeo spider? Add another subscriber to the list please. 😊
Love the Alpha Romeo Spider! When Chevy Chase stole one from a car thief in the movie “Fletch” and raced it through town, I forever thought they were cool. Unfortunately I don’t have access to one. Thank you for your kind comments on this video.
Having read the ZF HP26 literature, looked at the drawings and ruminated a lot about doing this, I discovered your video. I'm now reassured that this is doable by being careful and having the correct tools and attitude, so I'm preparing for transmission surgery. I was originally going to use Ford Mercon LV transmission fluid which was used in the Ford 6R80 (ZF HP26 licensed by Ford) transmissions but have decided to do some more research before committing, thanks for your thorough and complete presentation!
Yes, that was an unexpected hassle that my 70 yr old fingers weren't prepared for. The 2 bolts on the front shaft side really drove me nuts. I took the bracket down and cut horizontal grooves with an angle grinder. Without trying to get the bracket lined up and tiny bolts started it was much easier to have all the bolts in already. Then it just slips in through the grooves and it is easy. Cut the grooves so they create a "hook effect" on the bolt and make sure they're all the same to make it easier....2 hrs. trying get those 2 little bolts in, 20 minutes to modify and install my way....
Fantastic job! I can only imagine the effort it took to get the camera angles and lighting in those difficult areas. Thanks so much for the effort you put in to this video and your others. Keep it up!
Awesome job with this video series! I really want to buy an LR3 for a weekend/off road fun vehicle but I was a bit hesitant, thinking they are difficult and expensive to service and maintain. I’m a competent mechanic but some vehicles are beyond my “garage with no lift, weekend project” capabilities. Lol Your vids have convinced me that the LR3 is a solid option for me and now I also know what to look for while shopping for one. Looking forward to the rest of the series! Thanks
Best comment of the day!!! Thank you so much for your kind words. Good luck on your search. Hopefully your LR3 will be as much fun as your Super Rock Rey.
Had one installed by a non franchise LR shop. 5 miles down the road and stopped for coffee and found it leaking badly. Went straight back to the shop and got the bus home. Definitely follow instructions and run tap through threads. Bear in mind this is a Britpart item. I strongly recommend sticking with the original Land Rover part.
@@wafflesquare so I replaced the pan and while I was at it I also changed out the shift link hardware. Took me pretty much all day in my garage with a floor jack and two jack stands. No issues! I also bought a new sleeve but had trouble putting it back in. So I just put the old one back in (no leaks around it) I filled the transmission with a suction gun and it’s very difficult with the exhaust being right next to to fill port. Took for a test drive and the transmission slips. So I went ahead and purchased the multi use pump and it’ll be here tomorrow. Hopefully no more slipping. One question: approximately how long did you wait for it to teach 40 Celsius?
I have been thinking of getting a Disco 3 for a while specifically for off roading and ive always been put off because of the rumours/truth around reliability, but this series of videos honestly has made my mind up. It is all within my skill set to do these should i need to and it is such a comprehensive and well explained series, that i cant wait to get one and maybe even slightly looking forward to a fluid change here and there. Keep up the great work. Awesome stuff.
Excellent, I am a Land Rover owner, lr3 2006 and Rage Rover L322 2010. I been used Land Rover vehicles for about 18 years and I did the oil transmission changed to the Lr3 but I have to reset the transmission computer. Thank you for the video, very good.
Hi, thanks for your videos. i have just recently bought a '05 V8. I have just now replaced the radiator that had hairline crack at the top left inlet. My next job will be the transmission. I am just going to do a oil change and replace the oem plastic sump with the metal one. this video has helped a lot, thanks.
Hi Mike, Finished installing the new pan and will begin refilling this morning. Wanted to comment on that connector sleeve since it was so difficult to install. And no one seems to be giving a complete explanation as to why. Here's my two cents; Because of the very tight and difficult accessibility, especially if one doesn't have a proper lift, Before removing the old sleeve, It is very important to thoroughly clean the surrounding area of any grime and old fluid. On my LR3, it was a mess all around the outside due to a long term leak. This is to prevent getting the new sleeve and O-rings dirty when trying to maneuver it in the hole. No one seems to want to be more clear about how this sleeve must be installed, and as a result I struggled for hours to get it seated so the white locking mechanism would re-engage. Inside the sleeve you'll see a thin plastic tab sticking up. This tab MUST be on the bottom for the lock to align the outer indents and grooves. I finally figured to make a paint pen mark at 180 deg on the inside so as to see that from below and know it was aligned properly. A very light grease on the O-rings also helps slide it in without damaging them. Once it is properly aligned the lock slips up to engage very easily. But if it is not aligned you'll never get that lock to move up and engage no matter how hard you push it. Knowing this in advance would have save much time and frustration.
35:52 Just a thought...Try dropping the bolts into the holes to help keep the gasket lined up with the pan holes until the glue sets.Fantastic very informative video! You've instilled some confidence for going beyond just giving the mechatronics unit a passing glance, considering here in Aus, a replacement can be upwards of about AU$8K.
Thanks for this. Make sure that the lever for the sealing sleeve is free before you put the valve body back in. Mine was getting stuck and I had to remove the body. The metal tabs were stuck, I had to release them with a pick then put a zip tie through the hole on the lever so they didn’t lock down again.
Hey Mike, I really enjoyed this video. I live in Johannesburg. I like the way you work, you are well prepared always seem to have the right tool available 😎. I've had slipping before on my BMW which also has a 6HP gearbox. After watching this video I'm confident even I will be able to to a gearbox service. Thanks for a very well put together video!
Awesome video. All of this is going to get done as ours needs a new torque converter. Gearbox has to come out. Going to replace the engine mounts while we're at it.
Great plug for the pan flute guy my dude. Now I’m going to have to look him up the go down the rabbit hole and order a pan flute. Playing a pan flute while working on my transmission 😅
Greetings from WA. That’s Western Australia rather than Washington State. Great great video. I have a 2006 Discovery 3 with 374k kms on it (233k miles) and I’ve just done a filter and fluid change on the tranny. Wish I’d seen your video first and I would have also dropped the mech box and changed the solenoids too. Interesting to see you have an issue with the steel pan. I agree that those bolts under the cross members are a total pain but aside from that and a little bit of jiggling I can get the pan into position without having to raise the transfer case but I have the 2.7 TDV6 so that may make a difference. And my steering column is on the other side too Looking forward to watching more of your videos. Great work Take care Grant Allan
Hi , am from across the pond in the Uk and wished to say what a fantastic video , big credit to u , hope u don’t mind me adding but when doing the updates I saw ur main battery was showing 11.7 Vdc , personally plug in a CTEK 7 charger which has the supply facility to keep the battery topped up whilst doing updates , along with using the 12s towing socket to keep ur battery topped up and handy as can leave it in for weeks seeing the CTEK will automatically drop to a trickle charge , also use the gap iid and indeed a great bit of kit , once again really hope u didn’t mind me adding that , look forward to further videos , PS , there’s also a great forum called the discovery 3 forum which i imagine u would enjoy as it’s full of great people and info , thks again
@@wafflesquare , many thks and great is was useful to u , I also fitted a 12s socket onto the front of my house, drilled through the wall into my hallway where my charger is , then just made up a 7 x wire 10 x foot lead so as I pull onto my driveway I can then easily plug my extension lead in and switch the charger on , also fitted a bigger battery from the 017 to the 019 yuasa, plus fitted battery split charge system , replaced the interior bulbs with LED ones to also save on draining the battery , have the TDV6 2.7 engine but plan my next D3 to be a petrol 4.4 seeing I don’t do high mileage , thks again
Thanks for such a detailed and well shot video! I'm literally halfway through this process right now and your video is perfect for my situation (in a garage, on jack stands). Thank you, and keep up the good content!
Just a suggestion for content. The air system! People are so scared of the air ride system..like it's a new fad that LR was trying out for a while. When In reality it has been around as long as the synthetic material used to make it existed. It's not new, and it's easy to work on.....and you feel like your on a lazy boy on the highway
I would order a new fill plug and remove the old one by drilling a hole and using a reverse thread extractor like this one shown at 2:38 in: ua-cam.com/video/l8FmI4SH8WM/v-deo.html
This was a great video!! I wish you were my neighbor because I have this exact problem with my transmission!! I only did half of this job and didn’t change the solenoids 😢… I will have to go at it again!
All my parts came in for my 05 LR3 yesterday. Will be doing this same thing on my LR3 today. When I get on the gas with a hard acceleration from a stop its slipping between 1 and 2nd gear. Mike thanks again for this video and will let you all know how it turns out!
Well, I spent almost 2hrs trying to get the coupling for the trans electrical connection in, but couldn't get it. I had a small breaker bar but still couldn't get enough force to release the catch. Was getting tired and a bit frustrated, you weren't kidding when you said it was one of the hardest parts of the job. Think I will need to pick up a bigger bar for a bit more force. Will try again tomorrow! :-)
Finished up the other day and have been driving around gently. Have put about 200miles since the trans service. I don't know if it's because I'm driving like a grandma but my MPG has gone from 11mpg to now at 14mpg. I was also getting a slight shutter when accelerating from a stop and that's gone now! Now I just need to put the slipper down and make sure it doesn't slip between 1 and 2nd but it already feels much smoother! Mike, can't thank you enough!
Hi Mike, Had to have my 06 LR3 towed home because I lost drive. I had done the new pan and fluid/filter redo 5 months ago. Now i'm kicking myself for not doing the entire upgrade as you did. So now I'll be opening it up again....ugh! live and learn. After researching ala tube for other possible causes, its either the components you replaced or the torque converter. No discernible leaks. Guess I'll find out soon enough...BTW is your daughter enjoying her new rig? PS; Always considered it a compliment to be called a mechanic. And though you may not make your living as one, you are a mechanic in my book. You would make Robert Pirsig proud. (Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance author)...
I would check the shifter linkage under the car first. Waldo Welds had an auction purchase that he could not physically shift the transmission between gears and it was a simple linkage issue. Check out his UA-cam video for details.
Yes, I follow Waldo. That was my first suspicion/hope as well. Can't see anything out of sorts with the linkage connection. I'm going to open the center console and check the linkage connection on the shift lever as well. Once I got the car up and wheels off the ground, I tried shifting and it goes into gear ok. I'm assuming this to a be an indicator of a fluid pressure issue. Or a failed torque converter. But if any of the seals like you replaced have failed they would affect the pressure and shifting ability, especially under load. At least its my presumption. I'm in Northern Mass. and its no fun to do this level of winter work in my driveway...Waldo is somewhere in NH. I'm trying to make this car reliable enough for very long trips. But it is a high miler (136K) so time will tell if its a fool's errand. Apologies for the lengthy response, but I noticed there was a "parking solenoid" also available for this tranny. Wondered where it is located and if it is worth the additional $75 peace of mind? Might give that CA company a call about it. @@wafflesquare
Just wanted to update the tranny issue. You were correct, that little arm on the linkage looked fine, but the steel sleeve that goes into the nylon bushing had froze due to corrosion. Cleaned it up, applied some anti-sieze., problem solved. Thank you Mike! @@wafflesquare
Magnificent video!! very educational!! thank you so much!!! I wanted to ask you if, in addition to the automatic transmission case oil, how do you change the torque converter oil? . What I see is that if you only change the oil in the box, it will be contaminated by the torque converter oil, when you come into contact with it and it is a shame not to take advantage and change it entirely from the oil that I think are about 10 liters. Thanks again. kind regards! Juan
Great point, Juan! Short answer is to run the vehicle for a week and then use the new drain plug to empty that fluid and refill the transmission. You will never get all of the old fluid out with this method but, as my college professor taught us, “dilution is the solution to pollution”. Also remember I’m not a mechanic but the gray colored material in the used fluid is clutch disk material. There comes a point when those disks in the transmission are worn almost smooth and the spent material in the fluid is aiding in the friction necessary for propulsion.
I understand. With that method, at least, it would remain almost clean, let's say 80%, which is already very good, to avoid going through a dialysis machine. I am also aware of another user who has told me that he is studying the following in his workshop: make the change at 100%, disconnecting the oil outlet from the cooler and putting a drain tube on a bucket, start it and when it changes oil color, 100% change done. I wouldn't do this in one go..... it is to start the engine several times and replenish the level several times...... so as not to leave the circuit without oil..... what do you think? I'm waiting for that user's video and I'll tell you......... Thank you very much for your very good and fast response!!! in a pleasure. kind regards @wafflesquare
Excellent video , as they all are. - I would have used small zip ties to hold the gasket in place ( as well as the spray ) :) - Keep up the good work Mike
Wow! The is an excellent video. A top notch video.👌👌👍 The best (on servicing the ZF gearbox) I have ever seen. Simplified and well explained. Thank you so much.
Man, I appreciate you. I have the pan kit in the back of my LR right now waiting for my cluster to get back from repairs- but I had no clue I could buy the solenoid kit. Give a mouse a cookie/while I’m in there, light a couple more hundred-dollar-bills on fire. I paid the same as you did, I can’t bitch too much at a few extra dollars, I guess. 🤣
@@wafflesquare one last thing re: adaptation. Driving around for weeks is unnecessary. Someone shared the ZF doc with me. The official procedure is: gearbox in standard mode, accelerate moderately to 55-60. Release throttle and coast to nearly stopped (hitting brakes in 2nd gear or higher will cancel adaptation learning). At "walking" pace, hit the brakes, and hold for 15 seconds stopped. Repeat 4x more.
Thank you, Xolani. Be sure to catch episode 6 where I do an adaptation relearn procedure on the transmission. I was wrong in this video when I said to “just drive it like a granny“.
The transmission gasket for a Ford 6R80 transmission has an integral rubber seal on a flat gasket that offers a better seal than the Land Rover part. It will work with the Land rover 2 peice metal pan. I used this as well as a Ford 6R80 filter and pan to repair my Land Rover transmission and give me a little bit more fluid.
big shot out to you from jamaica love all you doing great job keep doing the good work k dont worry about the haters just give thanks to the motivatorss kooooool from jamaica
I own 2007 land rover lr3 hse 160k , I done everything you and bought parts same company my issue was 6th gear incorrect ratio , put everything back together and found my rubber on shift cable that mount to horse shoe metal bracket has broke into 2 pieces , so I had to order new shift cable hoping when I install the new cable fixes my transmission issues
I've been down that route recently. Had horrible shifting on all gears, knocks, slams and slips, torque converter had issues locking up. Did everything except replaced it with a complete rebuilt A52/B52 valve body with the updated valves and metal accumulator pistons, result night and day differences on how it shifts! Key thing is if its acting up take action don't delay, drop the pan and look for sparkling flakes or metal chunks, if there isn't any a valve body swap is all you need to restore! 6hp26 mechanically are pretty robust the only short fall is the valve body however after you do the valve body zip kit and update the accumulators inside the VB they're solid transmission!
@@UptownFights no I replaced the valve body and all the gaskets and rubber seals that is required for the valve body, torque converter is still original however it’ll need to be replaced as it’s shuddering when engine is cold or first start up, I’ll do that when I get the transmission rebuilt.
Great video. Do you think it would make any difference / add any value to also replace the 6 rubber dampers, and the internal valves, o-rings, springs within the valve body?
Patrick I don’t know. In my research I didn’t find any mention of that being beneficial. I did find this link to a parts kit similar to what you mentioned: www.thectsc.com/products/overhaul-kit-6hp26-6hp26x-6hp28-6hp28x-61-50.html
Yes, you should replace the sleeves and adapter ring. I did this service 2 years ago on my LR3 and replaced all the solenoids on the valve body. My LR3 had issues with 2nd gear. The dealer and a local Rover shop both told me my transmission was shot and do not bother changing the fluid or filter. I did some research and decided to give it a go. Been running great ever since.
Love your videos man! This one help me immeasurably I am about 90% finished and of course I got to the end of your video as I was doing the procedure and realized shit I have to raise this motor as well LOL definitely would have helped at the beginning also there's a little trick to keeping the same pan and Tube even after you cut it care to guess what it is
Hey! Fantastic and very precise video with some great lighting so all is clearly visible. Must took hours and hours to produce and edit. Kudos to that! Hoping to work on mine soon as it developed shudder and juddering around 2000 revs. I got 08 disco tdv6 . Hoping to add also ‘instant shudder’ additive while doing the oil change. Don’t see a point adding it before oil change as some suggest
@@wafflesquare my pleasure! I thoroughly enjoyed your videos and always love learning new things from fellow Rover owners. Keep up the good work and fingers crossed on the repairs! 🍻
Me too Brian. Still working on the air suspension. So far I’ve discovered the wrong air compressor firmware and a leak in the center valve block. I ordered a quality o-ring kit from Britain that took a while to arrive but I serviced all three valve blocks. Had a breakthrough yesterday when the vehicle raised itself all the way to “off-road” height. The front dropped five inches in four hours so still more work to be done. Hoping for a test drive in the next couple weeks.
Awesome video, I just swapped the motor on my v8 lr3 last month and next I’m going to do this transmission service. Your video is the best I’ve seen on the service!
@@wafflesquare we did my motor swap in the driveway and I wish I had video taped it, but it’s nice to see more DIY content on UA-cam! I’m one of the few in America with 35in mud terrains on a LR3 so I’ve had to do a lot of DIY to make everything fit and not break 😂
@@wafflesquare i am putting the original type filter back in, bought it before finding out about the split one.but watching your video you had to raise the gearbox a bit anyway so fingers crossed
How was the transmission? I had a similar problem, I did the same as in your video and it didn't work, I disassembled the transmission and the discs were burnt, I had to change the transmission.
Instead of using a tap to clean the threads, find an M6 bolt which has a thread longer than the bolts which hold the sump on. Fit a nut on and thread it up to the head, cut a slot lengthways in the visible thread section with a small grinding disc or hacksaw, remove the nut (this will remove the burrs on the cut). Now, use this bolt to clean the threads, dab some of the fluid dripping from the gearbox onto the threads and clean the bolt after each hole you do, it's surprising how much dirt is in there. Saves buying a tap and die set and you only need a small spanner which is easier to get in past all the LR underpinnings. I'm doing a Range Rover at the moment and feeling smug because there's so much extra room.
Hi, I have a Discovery 4 3.0l ...I'm hoping the HP26 gearbox for mine is similar to this one, and also source all parts needed in UK ...like others have said, this is best video that covers in detail what is required! ...this will be very instrumental in what I have ahead ...regards Norm's
Mike, this is one of the best recorded, narrated and edited videos that I think I have seen on UA-cam about jobs in a D3 and I have seen many. Really enjoyed watching this. I am in the process of changing my engine with the body off so also doing a lot of preventive jobs of which this is on the list too. Many thanks Simon from the NE of Scotland UK 👍😎
Thank you Simon!
He’s the best. He really is. You have to live his videos.
I’m loving these step-by-step instructions and explanations. I have an 06 LR3 and these videos have been such a tremendous help. I’ve had pretty much all the exact same issues as covered in these videos. BIG THANKS!
Wow that’s amazing! I’m so glad they were helpful! Thank you for your kind comments, Ellis.
Excellent video! I did this service on my 2007 LR3 HSE, 105k miles. Metal pan, new filter, all solenoids, tube seals, bridge seal the whole works. The only thing I did different, was use the Ford style gasket, Ford Part #: BL3Z7A191C or FEL-PRO TOS18753 also works. This gasket has an aluminum frame with a silicone seal. Run some small zip-ties through a few bolt holes to hold the gasket in place during install. I did NOT need to raise the transmission to fit the pan. I somehow finagled it in there with little problem. And, YES, the sleeve is a B-Word. Practice with the old one on the bench before install. I had to pry on mine much harder than I thought I should. Nice work!!!
Great suggestions!! Thank you for sharing.
My pan is leaking at gasket..Had my doubts about a paper gasket without any
additional sealant but choose to follow everyones lead..That 7 ft lb torque spec
is a joke IMHO, especially since half the bolts aren't accessible for a torque wrench. After 2 attempts at tightening them I'm going out to check for leaks. I'll try this Ford gasket if it is, but I won't be happy about it. I'll need at least 1 more
bottle of ATF to compensate the spillage and leaking. I appreciate the stock #.
This is the poster child example of a live and learn experience, and paying for
an education one way or another.
Are these gaskets similar in design? Would you install them without any additional sealant? Or perhaps a thin coat of PermaTex gasket sealant above/below to keep it in place and add peace of mind for installation?
As to that sleeve, absolutely a PITA. I learned finally that it must be aligned so that inner plastic tab is on the bottom, otherwise the white
locking tab won't engage when trying to push it back up. A paint pen mark
helped to get it right. Also figured a go around for that nightmare shield bracket
re-install...There's a comment about that somewhere on this string.. Thanks
again for your help. We backyard mechanics need all the help we can get.
Awesome video I just took my 2005 110k miles to service and they told me I had to rebuild the whole tranny for 5k$, my only 2 issues dwnshift 2-1st gear and 3-4, im about to do this exact service myself and this video couldnt be better! Thanks a lot ill watch it at least another 3-4 times, that should help the algorithm! 😂
Favorite comment of the day!!! Thank you, Hugo, for your kind words.
Hugo, were you able to do this transmission service and did it help your shifting? I'm looking at an LR3 that starts having shifting problems after 10 mins of driving.
My upcoming video shows how to conduct an adaptation re-learn procedure.
Definitely a huge improvement in shifting.
Hugo, mine was doing the exact same thing. After removing my transmission, I took it apart, and my eclutchs were burnt. This causes 4-5-6 slips. Sounds like whats going on with yours. Did yours continue to slip 3-4? I hear it's common on this 6hp26 transmission. The bushing wears out. So I swapped to a junkyard tranny, swapped the computer, thru it in, and now I have slip on 3-4 again when rpm to high. Fml. I want to know if this is seleniod issues or that bushing and e clutches. I've reset adaptions, but has not corrected issue so far in a week.
This is a really good mechanical DIY video I've seen, and I've seen quite a few Sir! You explain everything like a really good teacher! Not missing anything! Keep it on! Great job!
Favorite comment of the day!! Thank you so much.
This really is one of the best videos out there setting out what and how to do this very necessary service on a D3/LR3 transmission/gearbox. The very calm and clear direction is very helpful. Well done.
Thank you so much!!!
@@wafflesquare credit where credit is due.
This is by far the best video ever on this subject. I'm a fellow Las Vegan mechanic if you ever need help wrenching just give a shout out.
Thanks, will do!
Great video! I've recently picked up a 05 LR3. Been doing a bunch of work with the suspension / air suspension. Your videos have been very helpful. The issue I have is when I accelerate quickly sometimes the truck seems as it may be changing gears too quickly which causes the truck to have a loss of power feeling. The truck has 97k on it so maybe its time for a trans service!
Could be. Also check out episode 6 where I reset the transmission adaptations after the service.
Fantastic video. Also live in Vegas. Your video gave me the knowledge to attempt this pan swap and flush on our old now my daughters new LR3. Did the service with a mechanic friend on a lift in his shop. I don't think it would have been much fun on the ground. Not terribly difficult however we had a heck of a time with the mechatronic sleeve installation. It came out fairly easily. Installation was an absolute bear. Used large breaker bars trying to press the sleeve in and ended up damaging the new sleeve. It was aligned with the locating tabs so that wasn't the issue. Ended up swapping the O rings from the new sleeve and put them on the old sleeve. Fingers crossed that it doesn't leak. After an eternity of careful prying we came up with the idea to use a large washer on the outer end of the sleeve to displace the prying force. It worked. Both of us are big strong guys and had a heck of a time with this. At least for us the sleeve installation was not that easy. Hopefully this washer idea can help someone else who is struggling with this installation. Thanks again for an amazing tutorial. Looking forward to seeing your LR3 repair adventures. ***Bonus tip. We used PVC ratcheting cutters to cut the pickup tube. Worked like a charm.***
Great ideas, Mike! Thank you for sharing.
I love your video. Very thorough and for a non mechanic you know allot. Thank you sir I don't even have a land rover but love learning videos like this.
Thank you so much!
Following episode 4 suspension system
This has to be one of the best DIY videos ever made. I just got a 139k 2006 LR3 and I know it needs the complete service you just did. Live in AZ and just waiting for summer to end to tackle this project. Thanks again!!!
You are very welcome. Thank you for the kind words.
Slick trick with that breaker bar, thanks Mike!
Been putting off doing this for a long time, but finally got it done. New tube and bridge seals, rebuilt the mechatronix with a Sonnax Zip kit, new solenoids, new seperator plate, new filter, pan, and a Lubelocker gasket from Summit Racing.
This is not a job for the faint of heart. Once you start, there is no stopping - you have to push through. Hardest part for me was getting the ridiculous heat shield bracket off. I now know why yours only had 3 bolts holding it in place. The two back bolts are obstructed by the shift cable on one side and the front propshaft on the other. It will only come off if spoken to in French..😂
I ended up cutting slots into the back holes of the bracket so I only have to loosen the back bolts and slide the frame backwards to get it off the next time I have to do a filter replacement.
Thanks again! Hope Aspens Landy is going strong!
You are very welcome.
This is the best video on doing a transmission service on the LR3. Thank you!
You are very welcome! Thank you for your kind words.
Great video, great angle shots and so informative. As a 2008 LR3 HSE owner you sure gave me the confidence to go ahead and do mine. Appreciate all the details.
Thank you, Ron. Be sure to catch the upcoming video where I do an adaptation relearn procedure on the transmission. I was wrong in this video when I said to “just drive it like a granny“.
@@wafflesquare Sure will Thanks.
You’re very welcome.
Excellent video, nicely done. I did the exact job 2 years ago on my LR3 and it saved my transmission. I recommend cleaning the gasket surface and tapping the holes before installing the valve body also raise the transfer case at the beginning of the job it helps with removal and cutting the filter neck. Great video and great job👍🏻
Thank you so much!!
Super helpful, I'll be trying this in the Spring and I'll reference this video for sure. Thank you!
I’m so glad it was helpful! Please also consider the transmission relearn procedure I demonstrate in episode 6.
Hi Mike. Thank you for your patience and for sharing the knowledge you have about these cars. They really are very helpful.
Thank you so much! I’m so happy it was helpful for you.
Great Videos.Watched every minute. Better than most programming on TV.
Favorite comment of the day!! Thank you, Doug, for your kind words.
Fantastic video! Thanks heaps mate ! I did this exact repair with your videos help and my hi-light was when I finally saw the pan flute !!My LR is running so smooth now. I didn’t clear adaptations even though I do have a gap tool I was too nervous and just drive it consistently and one hi-way car trip. One tip I have on refilling the fluid is to remember keep engine running and only turn off after filler plug is back in. I turned off engine before plug installed and all the fluid gushed out. Cheers
Thank you Justin.
You are a nice mechanic, I like what you do, and you helped me fix my car myself, a Jaguar XF
Younis thank you for your kind comments. I’m so glad the video was helpful.
Great video. Good tip for installing the gasket is to zip tie it in place and then clip them off as you go along. If you use skinny ties, it works quite well.
That is a great tip!
Spot on showing all the bits others don’t. Got to do this on my Range Rover and now more confident to have a go at it.
Thank you, Mick! So glad it was helpful.
So thorough and well done. I have watched the British Atlantic video for the same service and you went into even more detail! Thank you and we'll done!!
Thank you John!!
Brilliant! Very detailled, slow enough to follow up and to understand everything, very precise. Perfect sound and video quality. I am sure that this was a lot of work and effort. Thank you!
You are very welcome! Thank you for your kind words.
Very informative and one of the best "how to" video I've ever watched on UA-cam.
Thanks for sharing!!
You are very welcome! Thank you for your kind comments.
Hey Mike. Love your meticulous attention to detail. A word of warning to others searching YT for guidance on changing the pan. Most are on L322s which have unrestricted access to the pan torx bolts, others are on LR3/4s which are the same as L320s RRSs, which I have (3.6 TDV8 UK model). I found only one vid on an LR320. However, that vid nor the LR3/4 vids are on cars fitted with a Dynamic Anti-Roll (Sway) Bar which sits tight in front of the forward, non-removabe, cross member and properly blocks access to the most forward pan bolts which I'll call 1-5. Access to the corner bolts 1 and 5 is finr, and the middle bolt 3 is getable through a convenient hole in the cross member. Bolts 2 and 4 are the serious problem because of the DARB cylinder. I spent a whole day getting those two out and I can only hope I that I can get the new bolts in when I refit the pan. I let you know how i get on.
Great information Michael!
Very good video, currently I am looking to buy a LR3/4 and planned to do all the maintenance by myself. Looking forward to see the next video. Greeting from the Netherlands 🇳🇱
Thank you, Marc!
One of the best car maintenance videos I’ve ever watched. I don’t own a LR Discovery, nor do I need to perform a gearbox service but I was captivated by this video.
Thank you for opening my eyes to a job I never knew existed. Any chance you can do similar videos on a classic Alfa Romeo spider?
Add another subscriber to the list please. 😊
Love the Alpha Romeo Spider! When Chevy Chase stole one from a car thief in the movie “Fletch” and raced it through town, I forever thought they were cool. Unfortunately I don’t have access to one. Thank you for your kind comments on this video.
Having read the ZF HP26 literature, looked at the drawings and ruminated a lot about doing this, I discovered your video. I'm now reassured that this is doable by being careful and having the correct tools and attitude, so I'm preparing for transmission surgery. I was originally going to use Ford Mercon LV transmission fluid which was used in the Ford 6R80 (ZF HP26 licensed by Ford) transmissions but have decided to do some more research before committing, thanks for your thorough and complete presentation!
You are very welcome!! I’m so glad it was helpful.
Great video... getting ready to do the job here myself in a few days... I'll report back with any issues.
Yes please do, Jeff!
I just finished this job. Getting the 4 8mm bolts in when reinstalling the brackets was a real PITA.
Totally agree!
@@wafflesquare oh good. I’m glad it wasn’t just me!
Oh no. Several aspects of this service while underneath the vehicle were not pleasant.
@@wafflesquare I was worried about lifting the transfer case and transmission but my pan easily installed. I’m not sure why but I am thankful
Yes, that was an unexpected hassle that my 70 yr old fingers weren't prepared for.
The 2 bolts on the front shaft side really drove me nuts. I took the bracket down
and cut horizontal grooves with an angle grinder. Without trying to get the bracket
lined up and tiny bolts started it was much easier to have all the bolts in already.
Then it just slips in through the grooves and it is easy. Cut the grooves so they
create a "hook effect" on the bolt and make sure they're all the same to make
it easier....2 hrs. trying get those 2 little bolts in, 20 minutes to modify and
install my way....
Thank you So much....much I've learned i helped my uncle on his LR D3...and now its driving more smoothly...all the way from Namibia.
You are very welcome!! I’m so glad it was helpful!
Fantastic job! I can only imagine the effort it took to get the camera angles and lighting in those difficult areas. Thanks so much for the effort you put in to this video and your others. Keep it up!
Thank you very much, Craig!
just discovered this channel, love the production and organization! I'm subbed.
Nate thank you very much!
Look forward to seeing the follow up videos !
Thank you so much! I’m knee deep in the air suspension system right now and hoping to have the video out soon.
Awesome job with this video series! I really want to buy an LR3 for a weekend/off road fun vehicle but I was a bit hesitant, thinking they are difficult and expensive to service and maintain.
I’m a competent mechanic but some vehicles are beyond my “garage with no lift, weekend project” capabilities. Lol
Your vids have convinced me that the LR3 is a solid option for me and now I also know what to look for while shopping for one.
Looking forward to the rest of the series! Thanks
Best comment of the day!!! Thank you so much for your kind words. Good luck on your search. Hopefully your LR3 will be as much fun as your Super Rock Rey.
@@wafflesquare haha! I’m sure it will be. I need the LR3 to get to good spots to run my RCs. 😂
LOL that’s a perfect justification for buying one.
Had one installed by a non franchise LR shop. 5 miles down the road and stopped for coffee and found it leaking badly. Went straight back to the shop and got the bus home. Definitely follow instructions and run tap through threads. Bear in mind this is a Britpart item. I strongly recommend sticking with the original Land Rover part.
Thank you for sharing your experience.
Thank you for great explanation and camera views. I just bought a LR3 and it has a “hole” in the pan. So this will be the first project!
Jesse you are very welcome. Thank you for the positive feedback and for subscribing! Happy wrenching!!
@@wafflesquare so I replaced the pan and while I was at it I also changed out the shift link hardware. Took me pretty much all day in my garage with a floor jack and two jack stands. No issues! I also bought a new sleeve but had trouble putting it back in. So I just put the old one back in (no leaks around it)
I filled the transmission with a suction gun and it’s very difficult with the exhaust being right next to to fill port.
Took for a test drive and the transmission slips.
So I went ahead and purchased the multi use pump and it’ll be here tomorrow. Hopefully no more slipping.
One question: approximately how long did you wait for it to teach 40 Celsius?
It didn’t take long here in Las Vegas since it is around 100 degrees in the garage all day long in the summer.
Maybe 5-10 minutes.
I have been thinking of getting a Disco 3 for a while specifically for off roading and ive always been put off because of the rumours/truth around reliability, but this series of videos honestly has made my mind up. It is all within my skill set to do these should i need to and it is such a comprehensive and well explained series, that i cant wait to get one and maybe even slightly looking forward to a fluid change here and there. Keep up the great work. Awesome stuff.
Favorite comment of the day!!! Thank you so much for your kind words.
Loving this series; interesting to see all the similarities with this and my 05 lr3
Thank you!
Incredibly difficult but rewarding. I admire your patience. And Thank you,
Sanh you are very welcome!!
Excellent, I am a Land Rover owner, lr3 2006 and Rage Rover L322 2010. I been used Land Rover vehicles for about 18 years and I did the oil transmission changed to the Lr3 but I have to reset the transmission computer. Thank you for the video, very good.
Alain you are very welcome. So glad it helped you.
Hi, thanks for your videos. i have just recently bought a '05 V8. I have just now replaced the radiator that had hairline crack at the top left inlet. My next job will be the transmission. I am just going to do a oil change and replace the oem plastic sump with the metal one. this video has helped a lot, thanks.
Jay you are very welcome. I’m so glad it was helpful.
I will soon have to do the same work as in the video on my Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6, and this was a great reference.
Thank you so much
You are very welcome!! I’m so glad it was helpful.
Hi Mike,
Finished installing the new pan and will begin refilling this morning. Wanted to comment
on that connector sleeve since it was so difficult to install. And no one seems to be giving
a complete explanation as to why.
Here's my two cents;
Because of the very tight and difficult accessibility, especially if one doesn't have a proper
lift, Before removing the old sleeve, It is very important to thoroughly clean the surrounding area of any grime and old fluid. On my LR3, it was a mess all around the outside due to a
long term leak.
This is to prevent getting the new sleeve and O-rings dirty when trying to maneuver it in the hole.
No one seems to want to be more clear about how this sleeve must be installed, and as a result I struggled for hours to get it seated so the white locking mechanism would re-engage.
Inside the sleeve you'll see a thin plastic tab sticking up. This tab MUST be on the bottom for the lock to align the outer indents and grooves. I finally figured to make a paint pen mark at
180 deg on the inside so as to see that from below and know it was aligned properly. A
very light grease on the O-rings also helps slide it in without damaging them.
Once it is properly aligned the lock slips up to engage very easily. But if it is not aligned you'll never get that lock to move up and engage no matter how hard you push it.
Knowing this in advance would have save much time and frustration.
35:52 Just a thought...Try dropping the bolts into the holes to help keep the gasket lined up with the pan holes until the glue sets.Fantastic very informative video! You've instilled some confidence for going beyond just giving the mechatronics unit a passing glance, considering here in Aus, a replacement can be upwards of about AU$8K.
Wow that’s really expensive!! So glad the video was helpful!
Amazing video. In the market for an LR3 and this video is what I will review if the LR3 I purchase has any transmission issue!
Thank you so much!!
Thanks for this. Make sure that the lever for the sealing sleeve is free before you put the valve body back in. Mine was getting stuck and I had to remove the body. The metal tabs were stuck, I had to release them with a pick then put a zip tie through the hole on the lever so they didn’t lock down again.
You are very welcome. Please consider the transmission adaptation relearn procedure in episode six after completing your transmission service.
The amount of work that has gone into these is incredible thank you Sir and let me tell you I terrified about getting a Disco3 😂
You are very welcome.
Hey Mike, I really enjoyed this video. I live in Johannesburg. I like the way you work, you are well prepared always seem to have the right tool available 😎. I've had slipping before on my BMW which also has a 6HP gearbox. After watching this video I'm confident even I will be able to to a gearbox service. Thanks for a very well put together video!
Andile thank you so much for your kind words. Very much appreciated. I’m so glad the video was helpful.
Another great video Mike. I'll have to stop watching you as I'am green with envy over the condition of your vehicle underside.
Haha it certainly wasn’t my intent to cause you to covet thy neighbor’s undercarriage!
Awesome video. All of this is going to get done as ours needs a new torque converter. Gearbox has to come out. Going to replace the engine mounts while we're at it.
That sounds like a lot of work.
Great plug for the pan flute guy my dude. Now I’m going to have to look him up the go down the rabbit hole and order a pan flute. Playing a pan flute while working on my transmission 😅
That would be the most soothing transmission service ever!
One note though! If you crack open the fill plug first before draining you won’t need a breaker bar
Greetings from WA. That’s Western Australia rather than Washington State. Great great video. I have a 2006 Discovery 3 with 374k kms on it (233k miles) and I’ve just done a filter and fluid change on the tranny. Wish I’d seen your video first and I would have also dropped the mech box and changed the solenoids too. Interesting to see you have an issue with the steel pan. I agree that those bolts under the cross members are a total pain but aside from that and a little bit of jiggling I can get the pan into position without having to raise the transfer case but I have the 2.7 TDV6 so that may make a difference. And my steering column is on the other side too
Looking forward to watching more of your videos. Great work
Take care
Grant Allan
Thank you, Grant!
Hi , am from across the pond in the Uk and wished to say what a fantastic video , big credit to u , hope u don’t mind me adding but when doing the updates I saw ur main battery was showing 11.7 Vdc , personally plug in a CTEK 7 charger which has the supply facility to keep the battery topped up whilst doing updates , along with using the 12s towing socket to keep ur battery topped up and handy as can leave it in for weeks seeing the CTEK will automatically drop to a trickle charge , also use the gap iid and indeed a great bit of kit , once again really hope u didn’t mind me adding that , look forward to further videos , PS , there’s also a great forum called the discovery 3 forum which i imagine u would enjoy as it’s full of great people and info , thks again
Thank you Gary. Great suggestion.
Just ordered the charger
@@wafflesquare , many thks and great is was useful to u , I also fitted a 12s socket onto the front of my house, drilled through the wall into my hallway where my charger is , then just made up a 7 x wire 10 x foot lead so as I pull onto my driveway I can then easily plug my extension lead in and switch the charger on , also fitted a bigger battery from the 017 to the 019 yuasa, plus fitted battery split charge system , replaced the interior bulbs with LED ones to also save on draining the battery , have the TDV6 2.7 engine but plan my next D3 to be a petrol 4.4 seeing I don’t do high mileage , thks again
Thanks for such a detailed and well shot video! I'm literally halfway through this process right now and your video is perfect for my situation (in a garage, on jack stands). Thank you, and keep up the good content!
Reuben thank you for the kind feedback!! I’m glad the video was helpful. Good luck!!
Just a suggestion for content. The air system! People are so scared of the air ride system..like it's a new fad that LR was trying out for a while. When In reality it has been around as long as the synthetic material used to make it existed. It's not new, and it's easy to work on.....and you feel like your on a lazy boy on the highway
You are in luck! At the end of this video I stated that the next video will be diagnosing and fixing our air suspension.
Everything is going smoothly...but then I had a breaker on the fill plug and it stripped it 🙃. Any suggestions on my next move?
I would order a new fill plug and remove the old one by drilling a hole and using a reverse thread extractor like this one shown at 2:38 in: ua-cam.com/video/l8FmI4SH8WM/v-deo.html
This was a great video!! I wish you were my neighbor because I have this exact problem with my transmission!! I only did half of this job and didn’t change the solenoids 😢… I will have to go at it again!
Good luck to you Cruz! Please consider the adaptation reset procedure from episode six.
Great Video. I now feel confident to DIY my Transmission Service. Well done!!
I’m so glad it was helpful!
All my parts came in for my 05 LR3 yesterday. Will be doing this same thing on my LR3 today. When I get on the gas with a hard acceleration from a stop its slipping between 1 and 2nd gear. Mike thanks again for this video and will let you all know how it turns out!
Edward you are very welcome. I hope it works out for you.
Well, I spent almost 2hrs trying to get the coupling for the trans electrical connection in, but couldn't get it. I had a small breaker bar but still couldn't get enough force to release the catch. Was getting tired and a bit frustrated, you weren't kidding when you said it was one of the hardest parts of the job. Think I will need to pick up a bigger bar for a bit more force. Will try again tomorrow! :-)
Finished up the other day and have been driving around gently. Have put about 200miles since the trans service. I don't know if it's because I'm driving like a grandma but my MPG has gone from 11mpg to now at 14mpg. I was also getting a slight shutter when accelerating from a stop and that's gone now! Now I just need to put the slipper down and make sure it doesn't slip between 1 and 2nd but it already feels much smoother! Mike, can't thank you enough!
Fantastic! Please consider the adaptation relearn procedure from episode 6.
This is a really in depth guide. Good stuff mate.
Thank you so much!
You're the business man, seriously, great amount of work. Congratulations, subscribing immediately.
Thank you so much! Very much appreciated.
Please consider the transmission adaptation relearn procedure from episode six.
If you can see the tube drop after wiggling it for a moment, pull it sideways and it will easily break off. It’s so much easier than sawing.
Great helpful videos in the whole series!
Thank you, Andrew. I’m very glad it was helpful.
Made it to the end 💪
I appreciate the value you give here in the Masterclass of a video!
Thank you so much!
@@wafflesquare you’re so welcome!
Great video, I've done this job many times, very nicely done!
Thank you Joe!
Hi Mike, Had to have my 06 LR3 towed home because I lost drive. I had done the new pan and fluid/filter redo 5 months ago.
Now i'm kicking myself for not doing the entire upgrade as you did. So now I'll be opening it up again....ugh! live and learn.
After researching ala tube for other possible causes, its either the components you replaced or the torque converter. No
discernible leaks. Guess I'll find out soon enough...BTW is your daughter enjoying her new rig?
PS; Always considered it a compliment to be called a mechanic. And though you may not make your living as one, you are
a mechanic in my book. You would make Robert Pirsig proud. (Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance author)...
I would check the shifter linkage under the car first. Waldo Welds had an auction purchase that he could not physically shift the transmission between gears and it was a simple linkage issue. Check out his UA-cam video for details.
Yes, I follow Waldo. That was my first suspicion/hope as well. Can't see anything out of sorts with the linkage
connection. I'm going to open the center console and check the linkage connection on the shift lever as well.
Once I got the car up and wheels off the ground, I tried shifting and it goes into gear ok. I'm assuming this to a be an
indicator of a fluid pressure issue. Or a failed torque converter. But if any of the seals like you replaced have failed they
would affect the pressure and shifting ability, especially under load. At least its my presumption. I'm in Northern Mass. and its no fun to do this level of winter work in my driveway...Waldo is somewhere in NH. I'm trying to make this car
reliable enough for very long trips. But it is a high miler (136K) so time will tell if its a fool's errand.
Apologies for the lengthy response, but I noticed there was a "parking solenoid" also available for this tranny. Wondered where it is located and if it is worth the additional $75 peace of mind? Might give that CA company a call about it.
@@wafflesquare
@lukula2934 good luck to you.
Just wanted to update the tranny issue.
You were correct, that little arm on the linkage looked fine, but the steel sleeve that goes into the nylon bushing had froze due
to corrosion. Cleaned it up, applied some anti-sieze., problem solved. Thank you Mike! @@wafflesquare
Awesome!!! So glad it was something simpler than going back into the pan.
very helpful and you are very thorough in explaining. it all make sense. how can we ask questions? please advise. thank. you
Thank you for your kind comments. I’m so glad it was helpful.
That was an awesome video. On my list to do this spring and you made it look easy. Excellent - thank you!
Alan you are very welcome. Good luck and be sure to consider resetting the adaptations demonstrated in episode six.
Magnificent video!! very educational!! thank you so much!!! I wanted to ask you if, in addition to the automatic transmission case oil, how do you change the torque converter oil? .
What I see is that if you only change the oil in the box, it will be contaminated by the torque converter oil, when you come into contact with it and it is a shame not to take advantage and change it entirely from the oil that I think are about 10 liters. Thanks again.
kind regards! Juan
Great point, Juan! Short answer is to run the vehicle for a week and then use the new drain plug to empty that fluid and refill the transmission. You will never get all of the old fluid out with this method but, as my college professor taught us, “dilution is the solution to pollution”. Also remember I’m not a mechanic but the gray colored material in the used fluid is clutch disk material. There comes a point when those disks in the transmission are worn almost smooth and the spent material in the fluid is aiding in the friction necessary for propulsion.
I understand. With that method, at least, it would remain almost clean, let's say 80%, which is already very good, to avoid going through a dialysis machine. I am also aware of another user who has told me that he is studying the following in his workshop: make the change at 100%, disconnecting the oil outlet from the cooler and putting a drain tube on a bucket, start it and when it changes oil color, 100% change done. I wouldn't do this in one go..... it is to start the engine several times and replenish the level several times...... so as not to leave the circuit without oil..... what do you think?
I'm waiting for that user's video and I'll tell you.........
Thank you very much for your very good and fast response!!! in a pleasure. kind regards
@wafflesquare
Excellent video , as they all are. - I would have used small zip ties to hold the gasket in place ( as well as the spray ) :) - Keep up the good work Mike
That is an excellent suggestion! The spray really didn’t hold very well. Thank you for sharing Mark.
Wow! The is an excellent video. A top notch video.👌👌👍 The best (on servicing the ZF gearbox) I have ever seen. Simplified and well explained. Thank you so much.
You are very welcome! I struggled to edit it down but still get all the information out to the viewers so I really appreciate your feedback!!
Man, I appreciate you. I have the pan kit in the back of my LR right now waiting for my cluster to get back from repairs- but I had no clue I could buy the solenoid kit.
Give a mouse a cookie/while I’m in there, light a couple more hundred-dollar-bills on fire.
I paid the same as you did, I can’t bitch too much at a few extra dollars, I guess. 🤣
“While I’m in there” is definitely the right mindset when it’s this much of a pain to get there!
@@wafflesquare Much less when the unicorn blood that damn gearbox needs costs so much- i ain't doin' it twice!
Exactly!! I totally agree.
@@wafflesquare one last thing re: adaptation. Driving around for weeks is unnecessary. Someone shared the ZF doc with me. The official procedure is: gearbox in standard mode, accelerate moderately to 55-60. Release throttle and coast to nearly stopped (hitting brakes in 2nd gear or higher will cancel adaptation learning). At "walking" pace, hit the brakes, and hold for 15 seconds stopped. Repeat 4x more.
Thank you for sharing. That’s the first I’ve heard of that procedure and I’ll be sure to do that soon.
You are the star i will do that to my 2007 lr3 4.4l transmission
Thank you, Xolani. Be sure to catch episode 6 where I do an adaptation relearn procedure on the transmission. I was wrong in this video when I said to “just drive it like a granny“.
The transmission gasket for a Ford 6R80 transmission has an integral rubber seal on a flat gasket that offers a better seal than the Land Rover part. It will work with the Land rover 2 peice metal pan. I used this as well as a Ford 6R80 filter and pan to repair my Land Rover transmission and give me a little bit more fluid.
Good to know!
I bought a lube locker gasket from Summit Racing for the 6R80 and it’s a direct fit to the ZFHP26. No leaks after 12k miles!
@nickthompson214 that’s great!!
big shot out to you from jamaica love all you doing great job keep doing the good work k dont worry about the haters just give thanks to the motivatorss kooooool from jamaica
Favorite comment of the day!! Thank you, Paul.
Yes very interested to see your next video. I’ve contemplated buying one in similar condition…
Hopefully coming soon.
I own 2007 land rover lr3 hse 160k , I done everything you and bought parts same company my issue was 6th gear incorrect ratio , put everything back together and found my rubber on shift cable that mount to horse shoe metal bracket has broke into 2 pieces , so I had to order new shift cable hoping when I install the new cable fixes my transmission issues
I hope so too.
I've been down that route recently. Had horrible shifting on all gears, knocks, slams and slips, torque converter had issues locking up. Did everything except replaced it with a complete rebuilt A52/B52 valve body with the updated valves and metal accumulator pistons, result night and day differences on how it shifts! Key thing is if its acting up take action don't delay, drop the pan and look for sparkling flakes or metal chunks, if there isn't any a valve body swap is all you need to restore! 6hp26 mechanically are pretty robust the only short fall is the valve body however after you do the valve body zip kit and update the accumulators inside the VB they're solid transmission!
Thank you for the advice!!
What did you mean did everything? Replaced torque converter to? Mine is jointing ever gear and slip out of 4th to 3rd rarely. Think I need valve body?
@@UptownFights no I replaced the valve body and all the gaskets and rubber seals that is required for the valve body, torque converter is still original however it’ll need to be replaced as it’s shuddering when engine is cold or first start up, I’ll do that when I get the transmission rebuilt.
Thanks for the work on this video!
Great quality and explanation. Excited to keep seeing your content. Subscribed!
Thank you so much for the encouragement!! Very much appreciated.
Fantastic video, excellent production value😊
Thank you so much!
Great video. Do you think it would make any difference / add any value to also replace the 6 rubber dampers, and the internal valves, o-rings, springs within the valve body?
Patrick I don’t know. In my research I didn’t find any mention of that being beneficial. I did find this link to a parts kit similar to what you mentioned: www.thectsc.com/products/overhaul-kit-6hp26-6hp26x-6hp28-6hp28x-61-50.html
Yes, you should replace the sleeves and adapter ring. I did this service 2 years ago on my LR3 and replaced all the solenoids on the valve body. My LR3 had issues with 2nd gear. The dealer and a local Rover shop both told me my transmission was shot and do not bother changing the fluid or filter. I did some research and decided to give it a go. Been running great ever since.
ZMan thank you for sharing your experience!
30:35 - so satisfying
Everett I totally agree!
Love your videos man! This one help me immeasurably I am about 90% finished and of course I got to the end of your video as I was doing the procedure and realized shit I have to raise this motor as well LOL definitely would have helped at the beginning also there's a little trick to keeping the same pan and Tube even after you cut it care to guess what it is
Thank you very much. I’m glad it was helpful.
Thank you for the GREAT VIDEO!
DEFINITELY 👍 will follow you all times!
Thank you Mr. Armando!!!
These are high quality videos. Thanks for sharing!
Stephen you are very welcome. Thank you for your kind comments.
one thing they mention is to loosen the fill plug before you drain because sometimes you cant get it off and your stuck.
Thank you very much sir for an awesome listen my name is Moses from South Africa 🙏🙏
Moses you are very welcome!
not an easy job on the garage floor, amazed how clean the chassis is underneath
Indeed. Dry desert life makes for very little rust.
Hey! Fantastic and very precise video with some great lighting so all is clearly visible. Must took hours and hours to produce and edit. Kudos to that!
Hoping to work on mine soon as it developed shudder and juddering around 2000 revs. I got 08 disco tdv6 .
Hoping to add also ‘instant shudder’ additive while doing the oil change. Don’t see a point adding it before oil change as some suggest
Thank you for your kind comments. Good luck with your transmission.
One more awesome video Mike Merry Christmas thanks for your hard dedication
Thank you, Juan. Merry Christmas
Great video, definitely looking forward to see if it fixed your slipping problems.
Me too!!! Working on the air suspension system video now so we can take it out for a drive.
@@wafflesquare awesome, good luck on it and looking forward to seeing that as well!
Thank you. I’m very grateful for the encouragement and for subscribing!
@@wafflesquare my pleasure! I thoroughly enjoyed your videos and always love learning new things from fellow Rover owners. Keep up the good work and fingers crossed on the repairs! 🍻
Hi @wafflesquare! Dying to know is this service fix or improved your slipping issues.
Can't wait for part 3
Me too Brian. Still working on the air suspension. So far I’ve discovered the wrong air compressor firmware and a leak in the center valve block. I ordered a quality o-ring kit from Britain that took a while to arrive but I serviced all three valve blocks. Had a breakthrough yesterday when the vehicle raised itself all the way to “off-road” height. The front dropped five inches in four hours so still more work to be done. Hoping for a test drive in the next couple weeks.
Thank you very much for, excellent video is rich for information again thank you so much for this video it's help me a lot god bless you
Hamad you are very welcome. Thank you for your blessings.
Awesome video, I just swapped the motor on my v8 lr3 last month and next I’m going to do this transmission service. Your video is the best I’ve seen on the service!
Wow thank you, Rickie! I’m so glad it’s helpful.
@@wafflesquare we did my motor swap in the driveway and I wish I had video taped it, but it’s nice to see more DIY content on UA-cam! I’m one of the few in America with 35in mud terrains on a LR3 so I’ve had to do a lot of DIY to make everything fit and not break 😂
Yes I can imagine you had to cut away much of the wheel well to accommodate 35” tires.
Love this video dose this apply to a 2008 Range Rover sport?
Possibly. According to Wikipedia it might also have a 6 speed ZF HP28 so I would find the tag on the transmission.
very good video , i have got to do the service myself soon
Thank you, Ian. I hope it all goes well for you.
@@wafflesquare i am putting the original type filter back in, bought it before finding out about the split one.but watching your video you had to raise the gearbox a bit anyway so fingers crossed
Yes good luck.
How was the transmission? I had a similar problem, I did the same as in your video and it didn't work, I disassembled the transmission and the discs were burnt, I had to change the transmission.
Armando before I can drive around to test the transmission service, I first need to address the air suspension (in the next video).
Instead of using a tap to clean the threads, find an M6 bolt which has a thread longer than the bolts which hold the sump on. Fit a nut on and thread it up to the head, cut a slot lengthways in the visible thread section with a small grinding disc or hacksaw, remove the nut (this will remove the burrs on the cut). Now, use this bolt to clean the threads, dab some of the fluid dripping from the gearbox onto the threads and clean the bolt after each hole you do, it's surprising how much dirt is in there. Saves buying a tap and die set and you only need a small spanner which is easier to get in past all the LR underpinnings. I'm doing a Range Rover at the moment and feeling smug because there's so much extra room.
Hi, I have a Discovery 4 3.0l ...I'm hoping the HP26 gearbox for mine is similar to this one, and also source all parts needed in UK ...like others have said, this is best video that covers in detail what is required! ...this will be very instrumental in what I have ahead ...regards Norm's
Norman thank you so much!
You should have an 8 speed in the D4. D3/LR3 has ZF6HP26 (6 speed).
Perfect service! thanks for the video.
You are very welcome.
GREAT VIDEO FOR THE ROVER,
Thank you so much!