I just did this yesterday. I didn't put the car on jack. I just raised my rover. I had enough room. After all the fluid is in (2-3 drips per sec), put the filler plug in while the engine is running. If you turn off the engine, the fluid gushes out. I learned the hard way.
@@zx300ttt I just did a drain and fill. I didn’t replace the pan and filter. A total of 4.5ish liters went back in. My 2008 RRS has 97,000 miles. I will do another drain and fill at 110,000 miles or so. I used Liqui Moly 1800. So far so good.
@@penguintheboi0211 I did a 4.5 litre double flush . Left the pan alone : that's just a money maker for service departments . The magnets hold the ferrous and the filter holds the brass/copper . The carbon which makes the oil black , cannot be held by a filter . Runs way better now . The drop-down from 2 to 1 on an up hill is a good indicator of functionality . I've serviced all my LR and RR since 1974 . I used the ZF Lifeguard 6 . at USD 22 plus tax a litre .
The mechatronics sleeve is an absolute nightmare. The revised version is longer by a 1-2mm, making it extremely difficult to seat in place for the white locking tab to move up. When you align and place the sleeve in, it will appear as if it's in place and ready to go. However, you need an uncomprehendable amount of force to seat the sleeve in enough for the tab to slide up. I used a scrap piece of steel to place over the sleeve to minimize possible damage, and a prybar to forcefully seat in the sleeve. It took me several hours from removing and inserting the sleeve , to inserting and attempting to pry in without damage, to not being able to pull it back out due too excessive force, then eventually using a scrap steel which fitted precisely over the hole enough to hold it in place and to push as hard as I could until there was enough pressure on the sleeve for the tab to lock in. Should a future replacement arise, I will hope that it's because the orings have failed and that I am actually able to remove it without much trouble.
Open the fill plug first. You dont want to end up with no oil in the box and cannot fill it up. Should shift through all the gears on oil warmup. Change the mechatronic seals plus sleeve if you've got the box open as these are service items at 100k.
Great video, but I'm a bit confused. In this video, the pan comes off relatively easy compared to another video where the removal is difficult, requiring a oscillating tool to cut off the pick-up tube in order for the pan to clear the cross-member.
A few things that I thought I should mention. First do we put the nut back on the transmission after the first 3 quarts? Then let the transmission fluid get up to operating temperature? Or do we leave the bolt off after 3 quarts?
I would put the nut back first just to minimize waste due to surge upon starting the engine. I will then remove it when engine is already running then add fluid accordingly.
Hi just watch the clip on range rover auto trans service 2006 - 2009 is the V8 diesel 3.6 litre auto the same procedure as pre clip on 2006 - 2009. cheers Peter
At 8:42 are you saying the white tab is inside the transmission which you have to get to from accessing it from the removed pan? Or can you access that same white tab directly after removing the electrical harness without dropping the pan at all?
So I just had this service done, this summer by a local mechanic. Two months later it was leaking, what other options do you guys provide? Can I purchase just another gasket, that fits into the pan? Or is there a silicone that I should use to seal it up? I think I’ll do this myself this time and I want to make sure it seals up correctly! Thanks
I just did that procedure and now have no reverse, (P0736 incorrect ratio) didn't let it drip out long enough. did it because I had to replace Solenoid C where I had a P0968 open circuit, at least that part fixed voltage measured good on all solenoids before I put them in.
Hey, I just got the same code P0736 so replacing the pan and filter resolved that code? That's the only code I have. It's kind of odd I have the same 2008 supercharged rover as the one he's working on but I have to drop the subframe and loosen the top exhaust for room and raise the trans to get the pan out. Not as easy as this video
For the love of GOD, WHY doesn't Land Rover design a dipstick tube for these?! Being under a hot running vehicle and trying to take that plug out, top off the fluid, then put that damn little plug back in and tighten it, right beside cherry hot exhaust is not only difficult, it is extremely dangerous. Impossible to not burn yourself at least once. And WHY hasn't someone designed an aftermarket add on? Crazy.
All new fluid is used what drains out is tossed out. There will still be some old fluid trapped in the Torque converter but that does not need to be changed. The sleeve is item # TZV500010 www.roverparts.com/search/TZV500010/
Im going to attempt this service on my lr322 tomarrow morning. Doing in my garage i was thinking i can do all of it just by raising the vehicle to offroad mode? I dont want to get burned by the cats when reing the trans fluid while its running
What is the point of designing a part if it makes your job difficult. by integrating the filter into the pan, you need to remove the main frame cross bar, tans mount, engint mount, catalytic converter which all can be avoided if it is a separate item. your videos are informative but that does not completely elaborate the procedure. I would recommend people to get a kit which has a separate fluid filter as it will not need removel of additional parts. Thanks for the info.
Why would you put new fluid and not change the filter? Especially if it’s the first oil change the gearbox has had. Do you change the engine oil and not change the filter?
I have an 06 HSE, unknown if the fluid has ever been changed so I bet it has not. The dealer told me 114k and the age range, there is a possible issue of causing the built of crud to come free and that could actually make things worse than not. So should I replace the fluid or let it be??
@@JamesMcl Well I replaced the fluid. All is working well. A tiny drop will leak once a day. I think it is that damn electric connection sleeve. I was to hard to replace and since it did not leak I left it alone. I found the trans was down a quart. 5b came out and 6 plus A tad to refill. I am wondering if that extra quart leaked out that sleeve in the past. I will address this weekend and see. Maybe I will get lucky and just snug the bolts and fixed. Wishfully thinking ha. 200-300 miles since changed and shifts nice and drives well still.
@@JamesMcl UPDATE, finally had time to get under and see. The main drain plug was lose and took several turns to tighten until bottoming out. NOT sure what happened, maybe heat made it losen, because the first thing I did was make sure it was tight before going under the Rover. WISH me luck
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Always open the full plug first!!
I just did this yesterday. I didn't put the car on jack. I just raised my rover. I had enough room. After all the fluid is in (2-3 drips per sec), put the filler plug in while the engine is running. If you turn off the engine, the fluid gushes out. I learned the hard way.
How many qourts did you put in it?
@@zx300ttt I just did a drain and fill. I didn’t replace the pan and filter. A total of 4.5ish liters went back in. My 2008 RRS has 97,000 miles. I will do another drain and fill at 110,000 miles or so. I used Liqui Moly 1800. So far so good.
@@penguintheboi0211 thank you for the info
@@penguintheboi0211 I did a 4.5 litre double flush . Left the pan alone : that's just a money maker for service departments . The magnets hold the ferrous and the filter holds the brass/copper . The carbon which makes the oil black , cannot be held by a filter . Runs way better now . The drop-down from 2 to 1 on an up hill is a good indicator of functionality . I've serviced all my LR and RR since 1974 . I used the ZF Lifeguard 6 . at USD 22 plus tax a litre .
@@npet6842thanks for the comment. Do you recommend replacing the sleeve as they do in the vid?
Thank you for all your videos
The mechatronics sleeve is an absolute nightmare. The revised version is longer by a 1-2mm, making it extremely difficult to seat in place for the white locking tab to move up. When you align and place the sleeve in, it will appear as if it's in place and ready to go. However, you need an uncomprehendable amount of force to seat the sleeve in enough for the tab to slide up. I used a scrap piece of steel to place over the sleeve to minimize possible damage, and a prybar to forcefully seat in the sleeve.
It took me several hours from removing and inserting the sleeve , to inserting and attempting to pry in without damage, to not being able to pull it back out due too excessive force, then eventually using a scrap steel which fitted precisely over the hole enough to hold it in place and to push as hard as I could until there was enough pressure on the sleeve for the tab to lock in. Should a future replacement arise, I will hope that it's because the orings have failed and that I am actually able to remove it without much trouble.
Thank you very for the video! I was looking for the fill plug and found it in your video. Good Job!
Open the fill plug first. You dont want to end up with no oil in the box and cannot fill it up.
Should shift through all the gears on oil warmup.
Change the mechatronic seals plus sleeve if you've got the box open as these are service items at 100k.
Great Video!!!!! 👍👍
Great video, but I'm a bit confused. In this video, the pan comes off relatively easy compared to another video where the removal is difficult, requiring a oscillating tool to cut off the pick-up tube in order for the pan to clear the cross-member.
That’s on an LR3 where it’s a horrible pain and they often swap for the metal pan. The Range Rover isn’t that way.
@@Killian665 cool, thanks!
Woulda been nice to see how u did the sleave
Nice work and good information.........
How does the original filter last? I’m thinking about just changing the fluid without taking the pan off and replacing the filter for now. Thanks!
That’s a good question. LR time didn’t change his, only the fluid
A few things that I thought I should mention. First do we put the nut back on the transmission after the first 3 quarts? Then let the transmission fluid get up to operating temperature? Or do we leave the bolt off after 3 quarts?
I would put the nut back first just to minimize waste due to surge upon starting the engine. I will then remove it when engine is already running then add fluid accordingly.
Hi just watch the clip on range rover auto trans service 2006 - 2009 is the V8 diesel 3.6 litre auto the same procedure as pre clip on 2006 - 2009. cheers Peter
Same process for 2011 L322 5.0 Supercharged? Sleeve the same?
At 8:42 are you saying the white tab is inside the transmission which you have to get to from accessing it from the removed pan? Or can you access that same white tab directly after removing the electrical harness without dropping the pan at all?
I believe the pan must be removed.
@@atlanticbritishrp thanks :) i'll get that done
Hi sir.... Do you have engine mount replacement videos and kits?....
Do you need to buy a gasket with that? Or is that rubber flange the gasket?
Awesome video! Thanks!
Nice work!
great videos
So I just had this service done, this summer by a local mechanic. Two months later it was leaking, what other options do you guys provide? Can I purchase just another gasket, that fits into the pan? Or is there a silicone that I should use to seal it up? I think I’ll do this myself this time and I want to make sure it seals up correctly! Thanks
Sounds like your mechanic torqued up the bolts on the pan too tight and cracked the pan or unevenly.
Are 7 quarts that go into the transmission? I purchased an 06 RR HSE and need help with that, thanks.
I just did that procedure and now have no reverse, (P0736 incorrect ratio) didn't let it drip out long enough. did it because I had to replace Solenoid C where I had a P0968 open circuit, at least that part fixed voltage measured good on all solenoids before I put them in.
Hey, I just got the same code P0736 so replacing the pan and filter resolved that code? That's the only code I have. It's kind of odd I have the same 2008 supercharged rover as the one he's working on but I have to drop the subframe and loosen the top exhaust for room and raise the trans to get the pan out. Not as easy as this video
Hey!! I own a Land Rover Lr2 HSE, what do I need to do transmisión fluid change! Appreciate your help. Jesse San Francisco CA.
For the love of GOD, WHY doesn't Land Rover design a dipstick tube for these?! Being under a hot running vehicle and trying to take that plug out, top off the fluid, then put that damn little plug back in and tighten it, right beside cherry hot exhaust is not only difficult, it is extremely dangerous. Impossible to not burn yourself at least once. And WHY hasn't someone designed an aftermarket add on? Crazy.
. You're right, but GM and ZF are the one that should had made them
They are easy to make
@@paulparkins5126 make and sell them then, seems to be a market
Is this the same process for an 07 L320 supercharged?
Is Pentosin fluid ok to use?
How many liters do I need for a 2015 Range Rover Sport Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged?
I have range rover sport 2012 how much liter fluid need ? and wich zf fluid i use ?
Can you please upload the maintenance sheet you showed in the video somewhere?
Do u have to use any of the old fluid or all new fluid is good and what would the sleeve called so I can find it at the part store?
All new fluid is used what drains out is tossed out. There will still be some old fluid trapped in the Torque converter but that does not need to be changed.
The sleeve is item # TZV500010
www.roverparts.com/search/TZV500010/
Are you guys in Uk 🇬🇧 or Usa 🇺🇸?
Im going to attempt this service on my lr322 tomarrow morning. Doing in my garage i was thinking i can do all of it just by raising the vehicle to offroad mode? I dont want to get burned by the cats when reing the trans fluid while its running
kal209 yemen I'm getting code P0760 on my 03 range Rover. what do you recommend
I have a 2006 range rover supercharged. Gears not shifting properly. Would it be best to rebuild and change parts like valve body.
P0748 or replace
ok what in doing this would cause the ranger rover not to start please help
Should I change the sleeve even if it's not leaking. I've got 122k and it's super dry.
How much do you charge changing the transmission
What. Is the difference between zf5hp24 and zf4hp22 transmission
Where is the ACE filter on 2016 Range Rover L405?
Why do you need to lower the vehicle...cant you just start it if its on jacks let run for 15 minutes and
You can do that. But for him since the car is on the lift, he has to lower it to access the driver seat.
What is this ATF type
2006 land rover range rover hse 4.4l how much is the transmission kit? Please
Autozone for 160$ not including the fluid. I’m doing mine tomorrow
@@stephonhines6554 hey how many qourts of fluid did you use and what kind of transmission fluid?
Hi, where is the transmission dip stick on 2006 Range Rover 4.2 Super Charged?
Don't have one
@@stevenhall6932 thank you
Anyone know what fuse or relay makes the turn signal and hazard lights work in a 2006 range rover sc
Is car on parking or its in neutral when you start to do that?!
Not sure on that one, sorry.
Is THAT the same for 2.7 V6 diesel engine 07 plate
Not sure... we didn't get those models here.
It takes all 6qts?
Hi Jarad, yes it takes all 6 liters of the ZF fluid during the service.
atlanticbritish thank you
Land Rover charge 50.00 per quart????
@@atlanticbritishrp is it ok to use Pentosin?
Working on one (4.2 S/C) and the fluid started spilling out after only 1.5L?
The service manual for my 2008 4.2 liter supercharged says to check the tranny fluid from 30 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit. I’m confused
What is the point of designing a part if it makes your job difficult. by integrating the filter into the pan, you need to remove the main frame cross bar, tans mount, engint mount, catalytic converter which all can be avoided if it is a separate item. your videos are informative but that does not completely elaborate the procedure.
I would recommend people to get a kit which has a separate fluid filter as it will not need removel of additional parts.
Thanks for the info.
Have a code po732 gear 2 what does it mean
Its mean send to me gift 🎁
It means stop buying English cars.
P0732 Gear 2 Incorrect Ratio Adriána
@@nocount7517it's a ZF gearbox German😂
Hi, I need batery out or not, for change oil?
no
👏👏👏👏👍
You guys didn’t have to change the filter and do all that crap you just needed to change the fluid the filter is still good way to make money
Why would you put new fluid and not change the filter? Especially if it’s the first oil change the gearbox has had. Do you change the engine oil and not change the filter?
The service schedule says to change the filter as well and no doubt the same goes for Ford and BMW. I'd ask, why wouldn't you?
I have an 06 HSE, unknown if the fluid has ever been changed so I bet it has not.
The dealer told me 114k and the age range, there is a possible issue of causing the built of crud to come free and that could actually make things worse than not.
So should I replace the fluid or let it be??
Im in the same boat. Mines working perfect so far but heard stories of new oil making things go wrong.
@@JamesMcl Well I replaced the fluid. All is working well. A tiny drop will leak once a day. I think it is that damn electric connection sleeve. I was to hard to replace and since it did not leak I left it alone. I found the trans was down a quart. 5b came out and 6 plus A tad to refill. I am wondering if that extra quart leaked out that sleeve in the past. I will address this weekend and see. Maybe I will get lucky and just snug the bolts and fixed. Wishfully thinking ha.
200-300 miles since changed and shifts nice and drives well still.
@@JamesMcl UPDATE, finally had time to get under and see. The main drain plug was lose and took several turns to tighten until bottoming out. NOT sure what happened, maybe heat made it losen, because the first thing I did was make sure it was tight before going under the Rover. WISH me luck
is LR007474 Atlantic British manufactured part