OK...While I appreciate and respect your diligence in restoration of this system, there is what I believe to be an elephant in the room here. My experience with air compressors in general taught me that any tank becomes a reservoir for water and eventually rust. Air has water in it and steel tanks are not lined or even coated on the inside. I've had tanks develop leaks due to corrosion from the inside out. Now I've seen videos of these LR3 tanks being inspected after replacement, and they are always infiltrated with water and rust or crud. The system apparently is designed to "dump" pressure when needed for equalizing the 4 shocks. This means the central valve block will allow whatever is in the tank to reverse its flow. I'm not at all convinced of the effectiveness of the desiccant to prevent any moisture from being pumped into the system, especially after seeing the condition of the dryer in the failed pump I'd removed ( soaking wet, corroded and clearly beyond repair). All this to say that rebuilding the 3 valves with a compromised tank seems to guaranty imminent failure...And frankly I don't see how this dirty and wet air wouldn't eventually make its way to the shocks...Replacing the desiccant every 2 or 3 yrs. would seem to be required maintenance, at least in climates with high humidity. It would also be nice if these tanks had drain plugs on them for dumping water similar to any air compressor tank. This foam intake filter that rarely gets mentioned and is located in the rear driver's side compartment, would also be a good place for a 2nd dryer as protection against contamination. Seems like it wouldn't be too tough to retrofit such a device...With the cost of all these components it would seem to be a good investment.. Just my 2 cents...
Hands down the best air suspension video on UA-cam. Thank you for the outstanding information, great camera work, and editing that makes everything easy to follow. Super helpful in troubleshooting my own issues. Cheers!
I am in UK . I have a Range Rover Sport 2005 and this video was invaluable in getting to the bottom of my suspension problems . very well explained and informative.Thank you.
Dude thank you for taking to make this. You explain things so well. I learned more about my air suspension in this video than the combination of dozens of others. I feel way more confident tackling my system now.
@@wafflesquare One thing I learned from this video is if I wanted to proactively test my air struts to see if they are having problems or might need change out I could just pull the fuses and leave it overnight. If (the next morning) one or two in particular bottom out then it is a good candidate for change out. Otherwise my compressor will be working overtime to compensate for a leaking strut and I’d never know, thus premature compressor failure.
Bill check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/_WrCMsnqTFM/v-deo.html Glenn from Protohyp invented a compressor alert that will illuminate on the dash when your compressor is running. Excellent early warning system: compressoralert.com/
Thank you, Benjamin, for your kind words. It is a humbling compliment. I’m a flawed man who didn’t have a solid example of manhood growing up. I saw myriad examples of evil while serving in the military and 20+ years of police work as well. I try to make every interaction with my kids and my UA-cam audience a thoughtful, encouraging interaction. Growing up, I would have given anything to spend quality time in the garage spinning wrenches with my dad so I’m trying to live up to my own idealistic standard.
Michael thank you so much for noticing!! It can be very tedious setting up every shot with proper lighting and perspective and it really helps knowing I’m not the only one who cares.
Mike, glad I found your channel--instant subscribe from me. I am taking delivery of a 2005 LR3 tomorrow morning with bottomed suspension (thankfully it's coming on a trailer) and will be getting right into the diagnostics you've mentioned here. Your thoroughness and attention to detail is head and shoulders above even the channels with many, many more subscribers and is on par with any big-budget mainstream broadcasting network, in my opinion. Thank you for taking all the time and effort to publish these videos. I know it is a LOT of work to not only do the job for the first time, but also to find the best way to record it for everyone else to learn as well.
@@wafflesquareYou bet. There's a dearth of encouragement in the world, and of people recognizing the work load others incur and bear to make things happen. Cheers 🎉
Brilliant write up of the suspension errors that can sometimes occur, for my sins had land rovers for over 30 x years, lol , have a D3 myself and had to virtually rebuild my suspension with replacing things like the front struts , compressor , air tank etc , was in a right mess from previous owners , alas found that many try and repair these on a shoestring by cutting corners , really enjoying ur videos , credit to u as indeed understand how fiddly some jobs can be on the D3’s , worst jobs were replacing the rear upper wishbones , had to cut them out in the end , look forward to future videos and thank u so much for sharing
@@wafflesquare ur so very welcome , found ur videos to be extremely well put together , being very informative with it’s easy to follow steps , credit due where credit is due , thks again
On my 2nd RR hse. Grew up a mancave MacGyver so I truly appreciate videos. Very articulate, thorough and "English" lol. Thank you for all of your efforts ! Scott
This is a fantastic series of explanatory videos. The explanations are clear and concise and you demonstrate each phase of the inspections and repairs in a manner which is easy to follow and understand. Very well done.
This repair works great for OEM parts that have not been disturbed. A quick background about me. I do Nondestructive testing and failure/root cause analysis. I took my Land Rover in for an alignment after replacing the front suspension on both sides. I had no suspension issues prior to that. The alignment tech admitted that he had used a torch to loosen up the alignment bolts on the rear, which is common for Land Rovers. After that, my rear suspension dropped to the point where my back tires were touching the fender liner. Unfortunately, at this point it’s he said she said scenario. I can tell you, if inadvertent heat is applied to the front or rear distribution valve (which both are unprotected), it will warp the plastic beyond repair and the rebuild kit will not work. In this case, $140 to repair it myself was a lot cheaper than fighting it. Something for land rover owners to keep in mind. Do not apply heat to HDPFE, ABF or any fiber reinforced plastics. The heat will warp the material beyond repair.
Thanks for the heads up...Even if the valve blocks were made of metal the heat would likely ruin the o-rings and seals. The thought of some kid in there with an oxycetylin torch makes me shudder.
I find it hard to understand how the tech applied enough heat to the rear valve block to warp it whilst doing alignment work. All the rear alignment is done on the nuckle connected to the rear wheel. There is nothing to adjust on the upper control arm. That valve block is located about a foot inboard of the rear driver wheel well. My advise would be to never go back to that shop.
Really great vids with the Discovery man. I'm a Plumber here in the UK and having some crazy faults with my Disco so your vid has shown me how to fully refurb the valve blocks as I'm not a noob with O'rings but putting that into practice with the car is a bit 😧 so a massive thanks and sub from myself
I also run a heavy amp . short 12 + power line from the battery to the alternator . as it takes a big load off the connection at the starter ..as-well I also run 3 - ground wires - .from the battery. one to the ecm and tcm and one to the engine block . it also helped with resorting 12 vots to my cluster as it was going crazy and only getting 5.7 vots and ending up with lots codes .
I have a 2005 LR3 V8 with 250,000 miles and almost the exact same issues, and I was considering giving it away. I am inspired to repair it and save some money. Thanks for the videos. Excellent.
2006 the Discoverys were still using the Hitachi compressor, they changed to AMK in the wake of the Japan Tsunami making Hitachis hard to source. Great explanatory video!
you are so calm and collected, this makes me want to go and do this service myself just because you make it look so satisfying. plus it can only do good for the air suspension system.
Hi from Algeria. Thank you so much for taking time to elaborate this helpfull video. I have the same issue than you and will check my valve solenoid blocks right now!
Aziz you are very welcome. I’m so glad the video was helpful.
2 роки тому+2
Awesome series! Been enjoying it a lot. at 25:30, I believe that's a TPMS antenna, the ambient air temperature sensor lives on the front of the car behind the bumper iirc.
2 роки тому
Oh I see someone already mentioned it :) Ignore me
I’ve watched a lot of Rover dyi’s and by far you are one of my favorite. Very detailed methodical and if your doing this might as well check this part out and clean this up. Love the way you operate. Just watched your video today and subscribed. Good job love a honest professional.
I'm really enjoying your videos, you come across so very well. Clear, precise and to the point with good close ups of what you're actually doing which is so important. I have a Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 and have now owned it for 4 years as of today 12th December 2022! I replaced the seals in the front valve block when I first purchased it and then went on to replace all 4 struts even though it was only leaking from 1 front passenger side. Mine too had the original struts from the factory date stamped March 2007 and all were badly corroded so replaced them all to be done with any further issues with them for another 10 years hopefully. However I never replaced the o rings in the centre valve block or the rear so I was very interested to watch your video on this as I'll be doing those soon. One very important thing to note when flashing software and changing CCF files etc is to always have the battery connected to a power supply via a suitable battery charger with a supply feature as otherwise you can brick the ECU. GAP actually state this somewhere in their literature. I use a CTEK MXS25 which works great and has a battery reconditioning feature also. Keep the videos coming, I'll be watching them all 👍 P.S. your daughter is very lucky to have a father like you 😊 All the best from North Wales, UK 🏴
Gr8 explanation! keep up the good work, but I have a small comment. The outdoor temp sensor you spoke about is the tier pressure sensor Antenna....The temperature sensor is located in the middle of the front bumper, near where the air enters to cool down the radiator.
Very concise video Mr Waffle. I was quite envious of the condition underneath your discovery. Mine is 5 years old and was purchased from a seaboard dealer in the UK and the whole chassis has lost its paint.
I saw you have 6 Ventilation module codes. Those are very common when your battery is getting weak. If your battery is 2-4 years old, you'll want to have it load tested and consider replacing. These vehicles are very sensitive to voltage.
22:35 great video. I just ordered my kit to service the blocks. Regarding the broken o-ring on the line. Does the kit come with a new o-ring or did you have to source your own?
Excellent video! I wonder if you have an idea of how much it would have cost to buy 3 new blocks versus the cost of the o-rings and the amount of time it took you to switch them out. For less adventurous types like myself, it would be cool to know the cost and effort difference. Thanks for the video!
10:45. You don't have a motor temp sensor as you have an AMK compressor. The case is different. So you must have the wrong firmware. Also if you have no pressure in the tank in the morning, you have a leak in the tank or reservoir valve. The compressor relay rarely fails. You can substitute it with the heated windscreen relay next door. 26:00 TPMS antenna, not a temp sensor.
We have had our LR3 for 14 months. In that time apart from batteries (yes, plural) it has had 5 air springs, two valve blocks and 4 compressors, the last one in February 2023 - and today the Suspension fault light came on, Normal Ride Height Only. I love the LR3 but...
Thank you Dennis! In the next video we will perform an overnight leak test, replace the two front air struts, and try our hand at suspension calibration with the GAP IID Tool.
You mentioned that the powder might be from the desiccant; I read on some forums (🧂) that the desiccant will break down to a powder when it ages and it will eventually ruin the compressor. Do you think that’s true, and did you look at replacing the dryer? I wonder if that’s why the compressor was replaced, but maybe the dryer was replaced at the same time and the powder you saw was residual.
Hi Mike, the best most comprehensive video i've seen :) well done! .. quick question.. did you have to release all the air out of the system before disconnecting the valve blocks?
You can remove the fuse which regulates the air flow and then gently relieve the pressure from the valve block. You can also drain the system with the GAP IID tool.
another great video Mike - very thorough. You may not be a mechanic but you come across like my old uni engineering lecturer lol. good to see you have the AMK - I had to swap out my old Hitachi about a year ago so got an AMK and flashed the firmware at same time. The mounting bracket for the AMK is a lovely piece of machined aluminium, or at least it is now (as at 2021) looking forward to seeing more videos but also hoping you don't have any further failures that need in depth work - the Electric Parking brake is fun to work on...not!!
Здравствуйте. Я из России. Спасибо вам за прекрасное позновательное видео. У меня такая же проблема, закажу ремкомплект и займусь ремонтом. Спасибо вам
Translation: “Hello. I'm from Russia. Thank you for the wonderful informative video. I have the same problem, I'll order a repair kit and do the repair. Thank you” Response: You are very welcome! I’m so glad the video was helpful.
Great video...Thanks! The wife's 2014 LR4 (bought Nov 2022) just gave her a suspension fault today driving from Texas to Florida. I'm in Ohio. It turned off when she shut the car off and got gas, then returned after 30 minutes of driving. It doesn't seem (according to her) to be leaning front/back or side/side or riding rough/bumpy. She doesn't really know the difference from normal to entry level heights so she can't tell me over the phone. She does have to put some weight in the rear of the vehicle coming back so I don't know what to expect. Hopefully it will be this simple!??
Excellent professional and precise content! Your videos are some of the best out there on YT. Curious to know which jack you have? I have an `08 lr3 and would like to tackle the Tranny Maintenance you did a video on.
So glad I found your site...Just bought an '06 LR3. Picking it up tomorrow but the air suspension is totally messed up. Should be an interesting hr. long drive back home. Ordered my gap tool and ordered the o ring kit from 4x4. Hope its not too long a wait. I'm cautiously excited to own this car. Always wanted one. That lift looks interesting as well, do you like it? Your very considerate and meticulous and I really appreciate that.
So it got really cold last week and for the first time ever th rear dropped all the way over night. I started it and aired and it was good all day. I repeated the test with the fuse removed and both sides went down not just one so I know it's not a single Leak with self leveling happening. I figured it was the rear air block and I ordered one but I haven't done it yet because I'm waiting for the desiccate gel beads to come from Amazon😂 Now it's been just as cold except it's not doing it quite as bad and now the front and rear are equally dropping overnight not all the way down just maybe from normal to assess worth of drop. Would that mean the front block also or does the center block let air out of front and rear? Or are the front and rear blocks what actually let air out of the front or rear bags and the center air block only gives air from the tank?
Great videos! I am having an issue with the front suspension on my LR3, same year and model. I initially replaced the front valve block with a cheap valve from Amazon and it seemed to work at first but would still intermittently sag in the front overnight. I checked both front air shocks and the valve with soapy water and did not see any visible leaks. So after watching your video I decided to replace the o-rings on the original block and reinstall. Again worked great at first but still had the overnight sag. I'm at a loss on what to do next?? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!
Sounds like there is a leak in the lines or the front air struts. I would replace the o rings leading into the struts as well. Then I would raise the vehicle to off-road height, pull the fuse as demonstrated so the system doesn’t try to level itself, and perform the overnight leak test. I managed to find our leak in the front strut by quietly listening for the hissing leak sound.
@@wafflesquare Wow thanks for the quick reply! I should have mentioned in the comment that I have tested by pulling the fuses overnight, several times now actually, and it still drops only the front and both sides. I've listened for audible leaking as well and didn't hear any. Everything about the problem seems like it should be the valve block. Now, full disclosure, I did buy the o-ring set from Amazon, but I compared the replacements to the originals and they all appeared to be the same size/diameter. They did appear to be slightly thicker, but I didn't think this would be a problem? I could try and put the originals back on after a cleaning? Or maybe it is faulty Amazon o-rings and I should try the ones that you used?
Great video…liked and subscribed. I recently changed my compressor and while it works fine with no faults….the vehicle is now spitting excess air after the compressor runs and also after I turn the vehicle off. I know that it is normal for some air to release after turning the vehicle off but not during startup. It sounds like the air release is from the rear of the vehicle. Could this be a valve block?
One thing I wasn't clear on: the kit only pictures two of the tiniest o-rings used by the center valve (37:55) on the front and rear blocks, but each center valve requires two. Did the kit include 4 or did you not have enough?
Great video and valuable information. But I have a question. Where did you find the current air compressor firmware identification in GAP Tool? I can’t find a screen that tells me this.
Hi Mike, great video with details which is refreshing. Your vehicle lift is very interesting what make and mode is it, I'm looking for something similar, did you or does it have dogs location for the Chassis, is it a Quick Jack, keep up the good work Dan LR4
@wafflesquare I have subscribed to your channel, and that is because, may I say the way you explain things and your camera work as you go through them are, so good sir, it is fantastic, you don't go all technical, and keep it simple to follow. Thank you all the way from Grimsby, North East Lincolnshire UK. All I have to do is remember when you talk about the drivers side, to me that's the passengers side. 🤣
great video. I was wondering about the scan tool you are using, Is it only for land rovers or is it for all vehicles. Do you have a link for that? thanks
Tank you for this video, I learned a lot from it. I also have a question. After replacing all the orings, is it necessary to recalibrate the suspension or not?
The suspension calibration procedure is for the ride height sensors so I suppose changing o-rings would not affect those. Personally I would calibrate it just to confirm.
@@wafflesquare thank you for the answer. My problem is that I don't have the tool for calibration. I saw that you have a video with a review for an iCarsoft tool. Will I be able to recalibrate using that tool if I buy one?
Great video. I am troubleshooting my wife’s 2006 Range Rover Sport. She’s got the 4.2SC and that Front Valve block is a pain to access due to aux cooler. What engine do you have in that LR3 v6 or v8?
Unfortunately I have the same problem with the suspension bouncing everywhere. I tried the soap trick on the valve body no leak and then on the compressor where the air lines come out to the valve body, and it's leaky from where the hose connects to the compressor side. Do i need to replace the line or maybe there an o ring on that side?
Mr mike I hate to correct you on one of your comments , that is not and outdoor temperature sensor 😱 it is actually a Tpms transponder part # 51732zt, there one more on right rear wheel well , the land rover is such a unique suv and very sensitive to things being unplugged I just replaced my cigarette plug in console but didn't plug back in immediate once I put in new 12v plug I tried to start my car it wouldn't start until I plug all 3 connection on lower console 😱 omg, , know I am having issue with air suspenion fault, I finally got around to installing all upper , lower control arms and all new air bags in thinking because I unplugged the TPMS sensor transponder might be keeping lr3 from inflation air bags , I find out next time I go home , in a truck driver so it might be 3 weeks b4 home again to know for sure , i do have gap tool nothing worked on trying to calibrating so I'm thinking plug up the Tpms sensor transponder in hoping , it worked fine b4 I replaced air bags , my mistake was not disconnecting battery 😰
Hey there so I have a 2010 range rover sport I replaced the front air shock bags and after 2 days the truck seems to be going down do you think it can be the valve amd or the sensor as well ? Also the dynamic error code pops up as well
In episode five I demonstrate how to pull the fuse and do a proper overnight leak test without the vehicle trying to level itself. I would perform that test to see where the leak is coming from and go from there.
Hey Mike , I have a question. My L3 has all brand new air suspension parts however while driving it the nose goes up and down randomly. My tech couldnt figure it out and it drives us nuts. Any idea what would be the reason for this random nose up and down action? Again i have all new sensors and parts and there is no leak in the system. Thx
How about the ride height sensors? I would check them as I demonstrated with the GAP ID tool to see if they are reading your manual input. Then I would calibrate the suspension.
Hey Waffle square! Thank you very much for this great Video! I just replaced my AMK kompressor and now I am surching for some informations about the Air Inlet of these. Since you are also very in to the Air Suspension of this Vehicle: Do you know what the Plastik Tank does where the filtered Air goes to before it is lead to the compresssor? Kind regards from Switzerland!😊
I replaced the front left strut on an LR4 today. No heat shield that I saw that I could remove but was able to get a socket on it and turn it ever so slightly and work it off. Was planning on replacing the passenger side front but I couldn’t get the rear but on that one if anyone has insight on it.
Hi l have question aborto the scanner where l can buy and what the name because l dont found scanner for reprogamer land rover discover 2005 here in usa please can you help whit this información thank you
The GAP IID tool is and OBD reader used for diagnostics and calibration specifically for Land Rovers, Range Rovers, and Jaguars. eBay link is in the description of every video I use it in.
I don't even own a LR3, but I love your videos. This level of detail is invaluable. Thank you.
You are welcome. Very kind, thank you.
Спасибо, это хорошее, подробное, качественное видео. Многим обладателям LRD3 , во всём мире, очень будет полезно твоё видео.
Thank you so much!!
OK...While I appreciate and respect your diligence in restoration of this system, there is
what I believe to be an elephant in the room here. My experience with air compressors
in general taught me that any tank becomes a reservoir for water and eventually rust.
Air has water in it and steel tanks are not lined or even coated on the inside. I've had
tanks develop leaks due to corrosion from the inside out. Now I've seen videos of these
LR3 tanks being inspected after replacement, and they are always infiltrated with water
and rust or crud. The system apparently is designed to "dump" pressure when needed
for equalizing the 4 shocks. This means the central valve block will allow whatever is
in the tank to reverse its flow. I'm not at all convinced of the effectiveness of the
desiccant to prevent any moisture from being pumped into the system, especially after
seeing the condition of the dryer in the failed pump I'd removed ( soaking wet, corroded
and clearly beyond repair). All this to say that rebuilding the 3 valves with a compromised
tank seems to guaranty imminent failure...And frankly I don't see how this dirty and wet air
wouldn't eventually make its way to the shocks...Replacing the desiccant every 2 or 3 yrs.
would seem to be required maintenance, at least in climates with high humidity. It would
also be nice if these tanks had drain plugs on them for dumping water similar to any
air compressor tank. This foam intake filter that rarely gets mentioned and is located
in the rear driver's side compartment, would also be a good place for a 2nd dryer as
protection against contamination. Seems like it wouldn't be too tough to retrofit such
a device...With the cost of all these components it would seem to be a good investment..
Just my 2 cents...
Hands down the best air suspension video on UA-cam. Thank you for the outstanding information, great camera work, and editing that makes everything easy to follow. Super helpful in troubleshooting my own issues.
Cheers!
Thank you so much!!
This is the most helpful LR3 Mechanical video I've ever used. This has been monumental in repairing my air system. Thank you!
You are very welcome, Raul. I’m so glad it helped you!
I am in UK . I have a Range Rover Sport 2005 and this video was invaluable in getting to the bottom of my suspension problems . very well explained and informative.Thank you.
You are very welcome. I’m so glad it was helpful.
Dude thank you for taking to make this. You explain things so well. I learned more about my air suspension in this video than the combination of dozens of others. I feel way more confident tackling my system now.
Thank you Bill! I’m so glad it was helpful.
@@wafflesquare
One thing I learned from this video is if I wanted to proactively test my air struts to see if they are having problems or might need change out I could just pull the fuses and leave it overnight. If (the next morning) one or two in particular bottom out then it is a good candidate for change out. Otherwise my compressor will be working overtime to compensate for a leaking strut and I’d never know, thus premature compressor failure.
Bill check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/_WrCMsnqTFM/v-deo.html Glenn from Protohyp invented a compressor alert that will illuminate on the dash when your compressor is running. Excellent early warning system: compressoralert.com/
You Sir are the father I always needed . Thank you very much for all your dedication on quality work.
Thank you, Benjamin, for your kind words. It is a humbling compliment. I’m a flawed man who didn’t have a solid example of manhood growing up. I saw myriad examples of evil while serving in the military and 20+ years of police work as well. I try to make every interaction with my kids and my UA-cam audience a thoughtful, encouraging interaction. Growing up, I would have given anything to spend quality time in the garage spinning wrenches with my dad so I’m trying to live up to my own idealistic standard.
Your video production is spot on and much appreciated. Thank you!
Michael thank you so much for noticing!! It can be very tedious setting up every shot with proper lighting and perspective and it really helps knowing I’m not the only one who cares.
Mike, glad I found your channel--instant subscribe from me. I am taking delivery of a 2005 LR3 tomorrow morning with bottomed suspension (thankfully it's coming on a trailer) and will be getting right into the diagnostics you've mentioned here.
Your thoroughness and attention to detail is head and shoulders above even the channels with many, many more subscribers and is on par with any big-budget mainstream broadcasting network, in my opinion. Thank you for taking all the time and effort to publish these videos. I know it is a LOT of work to not only do the job for the first time, but also to find the best way to record it for everyone else to learn as well.
Favorite comment of the day!! Thank you, Tyler.
@@wafflesquareYou bet. There's a dearth of encouragement in the world, and of people recognizing the work load others incur and bear to make things happen. Cheers 🎉
One of the best service and repair videos I have seen
Philip thank you so much!!
Brilliant write up of the suspension errors that can sometimes occur, for my sins had land rovers for over 30 x years, lol , have a D3 myself and had to virtually rebuild my suspension with replacing things like the front struts , compressor , air tank etc , was in a right mess from previous owners , alas found that many try and repair these on a shoestring by cutting corners , really enjoying ur videos , credit to u as indeed understand how fiddly some jobs can be on the D3’s , worst jobs were replacing the rear upper wishbones , had to cut them out in the end , look forward to future videos and thank u so much for sharing
Thank you for your kind comments, Gary.
@@wafflesquare ur so very welcome , found ur videos to be extremely well put together , being very informative with it’s easy to follow steps , credit due where credit is due , thks again
I appreciate you.
On my 2nd RR hse. Grew up a mancave MacGyver so I truly appreciate videos. Very articulate, thorough and "English" lol.
Thank you for all of your efforts !
Scott
Thank you, Scott!!
This is a fantastic series of explanatory videos. The explanations are clear and concise and you demonstrate each phase of the inspections and repairs in a manner which is easy to follow and understand. Very well done.
Ramon thank you so much!
This repair works great for OEM parts that have not been disturbed. A quick background about me. I do Nondestructive testing and failure/root cause analysis. I took my Land Rover in for an alignment after replacing the front suspension on both sides. I had no suspension issues prior to that. The alignment tech admitted that he had used a torch to loosen up the alignment bolts on the rear, which is common for Land Rovers. After that, my rear suspension dropped to the point where my back tires were touching the fender liner. Unfortunately, at this point it’s he said she said scenario. I can tell you, if inadvertent heat is applied to the front or rear distribution valve (which both are unprotected), it will warp the plastic beyond repair and the rebuild kit will not work. In this case, $140 to repair it myself was a lot cheaper than fighting it. Something for land rover owners to keep in mind. Do not apply heat to HDPFE, ABF or any fiber reinforced plastics. The heat will warp the material beyond repair.
Thanks for the heads up...Even if the valve blocks were made of metal the
heat would likely ruin the o-rings and seals. The thought of some kid in there
with an oxycetylin torch makes me shudder.
A
I find it hard to understand how the tech applied enough heat to the rear valve block to warp it whilst doing alignment work. All the rear alignment is done on the nuckle connected to the rear wheel. There is nothing to adjust on the upper control arm. That valve block is located about a foot inboard of the rear driver wheel well. My advise would be to never go back to that shop.
Well done sir. Very clear and comprehensive
Thank you very much!!
One of those rare very detailed videos. Great job. Thanks!
David you are very welcome.
Really great vids with the Discovery man. I'm a Plumber here in the UK and having some crazy faults with my Disco so your vid has shown me how to fully refurb the valve blocks as I'm not a noob with O'rings but putting that into practice with the car is a bit 😧 so a massive thanks and sub from myself
Favorite comment of the day!! Thank you very much. I’m so glad it was helpful.
I also run a heavy amp . short 12 + power line from the battery to the alternator . as it takes a big load off the connection at the starter ..as-well I also run 3 - ground wires - .from the battery. one to the ecm and tcm and one to the engine block . it also helped with resorting 12 vots to my cluster as it was going crazy and only getting 5.7 vots and ending up with lots codes .
I have a 2005 LR3 V8 with 250,000 miles and almost the exact same issues, and I was considering giving it away. I am inspired to repair it and save some money. Thanks for the videos. Excellent.
Michael I’m so glad it helped you!
2006 the Discoverys were still using the Hitachi compressor, they changed to AMK in the wake of the Japan Tsunami making Hitachis hard to source. Great explanatory video!
Thank you so much!!
you are so calm and collected, this makes me want to go and do this service myself just because you make it look so satisfying. plus it can only do good for the air suspension system.
Sergei thank you for your kind comments. I’ve had my whole family in the LR3 and they were very impressed with how nice the suspension feels.
Hi from Algeria. Thank you so much for taking time to elaborate this helpfull video. I have the same issue than you and will check my valve solenoid blocks right now!
Aziz you are very welcome. I’m so glad the video was helpful.
Awesome series! Been enjoying it a lot.
at 25:30, I believe that's a TPMS antenna, the ambient air temperature sensor lives on the front of the car behind the bumper iirc.
Oh I see someone already mentioned it :)
Ignore me
You are absolutely correct. Thank you.
Great video! Best comprehensive walkthrough of the suspension system. Very useful and looking forward to more of your videos.
Philip thank you so much!
Great video. I learnt a lot from you.
Thank you. I’m so glad it was helpful.
I’ve watched a lot of Rover dyi’s and by far you are one of my favorite. Very detailed methodical and if your doing this might as well check this part out and clean this up. Love the way you operate. Just watched your video today and subscribed. Good job love a honest professional.
Favorite comment of the day!! Thank you very much.
I'm really enjoying your videos, you come across so very well. Clear, precise and to the point with good close ups of what you're actually doing which is so important. I have a Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 and have now owned it for 4 years as of today 12th December 2022! I replaced the seals in the front valve block when I first purchased it and then went on to replace all 4 struts even though it was only leaking from 1 front passenger side. Mine too had the original struts from the factory date stamped March 2007 and all were badly corroded so replaced them all to be done with any further issues with them for another 10 years hopefully. However I never replaced the o rings in the centre valve block or the rear so I was very interested to watch your video on this as I'll be doing those soon.
One very important thing to note when flashing software and changing CCF files etc is to always have the battery connected to a power supply via a suitable battery charger with a supply feature as otherwise you can brick the ECU. GAP actually state this somewhere in their literature. I use a CTEK MXS25 which works great and has a battery reconditioning feature also.
Keep the videos coming, I'll be watching them all 👍
P.S. your daughter is very lucky to have a father like you 😊
All the best from North Wales, UK 🏴
Thank you for sharing your experiences!!
FINALLY!!…Thanks for explaining it to me like I’m a 2 year old!!
Gr8 explanation! keep up the good work, but I have a small comment. The outdoor temp sensor you spoke about is the tier pressure sensor Antenna....The temperature sensor is located in the middle of the front bumper, near where the air enters to cool down the radiator.
Are you are absolutely right. I corrected that in the next video.
Nice video! To make installation easier, I put the o-rings on first then apply the grease.
Great tip!
Excellent work sir!
Thank you so much!
Very concise video Mr Waffle. I was quite envious of the condition underneath your discovery. Mine is 5 years old and was purchased from a seaboard dealer in the UK and the whole chassis has lost its paint.
Thank you very much! Definitely something to be said for a dry climate like Las Vegas.
Love the way you are taking care of this car!! Thanks for sharing and I wish you a merry Christmas and a happy new year!!
Merry Christmas Fede!!
At minute 25:27 That's the TIRE PRESSURE SENSOR and NOT temperature outdoor sensor. Thanks for the video.
Absolutely right. I corrected that error in the following video.
Great super helpful video, explanation and description.
I’m so glad it was helpful!!
Great clear no nonsense video. Thank you, much appreciated
You are very welcome, Steve.
What a detailed and well produced video!
Thank you, Hywel, for your kind comments.
I saw you have 6 Ventilation module codes. Those are very common when your battery is getting weak. If your battery is 2-4 years old, you'll want to have it load tested and consider replacing. These vehicles are very sensitive to voltage.
Thank you, Walter!
Excellent video! Really detailed and well explained. Thank you so much for your time and effort. Much appreciated.
Thank you Hannes!
Great video and valuable information. Thank you
You are very welcome. I’m so glad it was helpful.
22:35 great video. I just ordered my kit to service the blocks. Regarding the broken o-ring on the line. Does the kit come with a new o-ring or did you have to source your own?
All o-rings needed came in the kit.
Excellent video! I wonder if you have an idea of how much it would have cost to buy 3 new blocks versus the cost of the o-rings and the amount of time it took you to switch them out. For less adventurous types like myself, it would be cool to know the cost and effort difference. Thanks for the video!
Great question Jerry. I will calculate the cost difference and answer your question in the next video. Thank you for the suggestion.
The blocks are well over £100 each. Part nos. RVH000055 RVH000095 RVH000046
10:45. You don't have a motor temp sensor as you have an AMK compressor. The case is different. So you must have the wrong firmware. Also if you have no pressure in the tank in the morning, you have a leak in the tank or reservoir valve.
The compressor relay rarely fails. You can substitute it with the heated windscreen relay next door.
26:00 TPMS antenna, not a temp sensor.
Ummm the remainder of the video literally covers everything you wrote but thanks for the advice.
We have had our LR3 for 14 months. In that time apart from batteries (yes, plural) it has had 5 air springs, two valve blocks and 4 compressors, the last one in February 2023 - and today the Suspension fault light came on, Normal Ride Height Only. I love the LR3 but...
Yikes!!
Awesome video. Cant wait to do the same when i get mine. Well done!
Thank you Dennis! In the next video we will perform an overnight leak test, replace the two front air struts, and try our hand at suspension calibration with the GAP IID Tool.
Great video, one thing: that is the wheel sensor antenna behind the right front wheel well…..transmission was a great video also
Thank you for pointing that out! You are absolutely right. I will make the correction in the next video.
You mentioned that the powder might be from the desiccant; I read on some forums (🧂) that the desiccant will break down to a powder when it ages and it will eventually ruin the compressor. Do you think that’s true, and did you look at replacing the dryer? I wonder if that’s why the compressor was replaced, but maybe the dryer was replaced at the same time and the powder you saw was residual.
I have no idea
Another great video. Hard to find a mechanic that is as thorough as you ... sad to say
Thank you Doug.
Hi Mike, the best most comprehensive video i've seen :) well done! .. quick question.. did you have to release all the air out of the system before disconnecting the valve blocks?
You can remove the fuse which regulates the air flow and then gently relieve the pressure from the valve block. You can also drain the system with the GAP IID tool.
another great video Mike - very thorough. You may not be a mechanic but you come across like my old uni engineering lecturer lol. good to see you have the AMK - I had to swap out my old Hitachi about a year ago so got an AMK and flashed the firmware at same time. The mounting bracket for the AMK is a lovely piece of machined aluminium, or at least it is now (as at 2021) looking forward to seeing more videos but also hoping you don't have any further failures that need in depth work - the Electric Parking brake is fun to work on...not!!
Thank you, Grant. I bought this LR3 for my 12 year old daughter so I have four years to work out all the issues before she can get her license.
The only good thing about the AMK is the bracket. The rest is really not up to the job in the LR application.
Здравствуйте. Я из России. Спасибо вам за прекрасное позновательное видео. У меня такая же проблема, закажу ремкомплект и займусь ремонтом. Спасибо вам
Translation: “Hello. I'm from Russia. Thank you for the wonderful informative video. I have the same problem, I'll order a repair kit and do the repair. Thank you”
Response: You are very welcome! I’m so glad the video was helpful.
Hi! Thanks a Lot for this great Video! im going to get those rings and do the job following your very useful tips!
Hi from Brazil!
You are very welcome, Mike!
Great video...Thanks! The wife's 2014 LR4 (bought Nov 2022) just gave her a suspension fault today driving from Texas to Florida. I'm in Ohio. It turned off when she shut the car off and got gas, then returned after 30 minutes of driving. It doesn't seem (according to her) to be leaning front/back or side/side or riding rough/bumpy. She doesn't really know the difference from normal to entry level heights so she can't tell me over the phone. She does have to put some weight in the rear of the vehicle coming back so I don't know what to expect. Hopefully it will be this simple!??
If the suspension fault happens after 30 minutes it sounds like there could be a leak.
@@wafflesquare Thanks... I'll have her start the car tomorrow and walk around the wheels to check if she can hear anything!??
Soapy water in a spray bottle is a must for diagnosing air leaks.
Really good Video Congratulations 👏👏👏
I’m so glad it was helpful.
Excellent professional and precise content! Your videos are some of the best out there on YT. Curious to know which jack you have? I have an `08 lr3 and would like to tackle the Tranny Maintenance you did a video on.
Thank you Robert. Link in the description and I talk about it in the transmission video.
Great video very helpfull gonna follow your steps
Thank you, Fernando!
On the initial O ring you showed that was cracked on the air hose, did the O ring kit have a replacement for that?
Yes
awesome precise explanation.
Thank you, Sanh!
Change of pace. My system settings touch screen button is not functioning. I think perhaps this my be worth investigating
very useful video.thank you
You are very welcome.
So glad I found your site...Just bought an '06 LR3. Picking it up tomorrow but the air suspension is
totally messed up. Should be an interesting hr. long drive back home. Ordered my gap tool and ordered
the o ring kit from 4x4. Hope its not too long a wait. I'm cautiously excited to own this car. Always wanted one. That lift looks interesting as well, do you like it? Your very considerate and meticulous and I really appreciate that.
Yes the QuickJack 7000 is great. There is a link to it in the description of every video I use it in.
And thank you so much for your kind comments.
Excellent work!!
Thank you so much!
nice video and i would like to know where to get the scanner to diagnose
The GAP ID tool is available on eBay. Link to the product is in the description below
Great video
Thank you so much!!
So it got really cold last week and for the first time ever th rear dropped all the way over night.
I started it and aired and it was good all day. I repeated the test with the fuse removed and both sides went down not just one so I know it's not a single Leak with self leveling happening.
I figured it was the rear air block and I ordered one but I haven't done it yet because I'm waiting for the desiccate gel beads to come from Amazon😂
Now it's been just as cold except it's not doing it quite as bad and now the front and rear are equally dropping overnight not all the way down just maybe from normal to assess worth of drop. Would that mean the front block also or does the center block let air out of front and rear? Or are the front and rear blocks what actually let air out of the front or rear bags and the center air block only gives air from the tank?
Sounds like the soapy water in a spray bottle test is in order.
Great episode.
Thank you, Jermy!
Awesome video very high value information My question for you where did you buy your lift and if is an affordable price
God bless you and your family
Thank you so much! The link for the Quickjack is in the description for this and every video I use it in.
Excellent work
Thank you
William you are very welcome.
Great videos! I am having an issue with the front suspension on my LR3, same year and model. I initially replaced the front valve block with a cheap valve from Amazon and it seemed to work at first but would still intermittently sag in the front overnight. I checked both front air shocks and the valve with soapy water and did not see any visible leaks. So after watching your video I decided to replace the o-rings on the original block and reinstall. Again worked great at first but still had the overnight sag. I'm at a loss on what to do next?? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!
Sounds like there is a leak in the lines or the front air struts. I would replace the o rings leading into the struts as well. Then I would raise the vehicle to off-road height, pull the fuse as demonstrated so the system doesn’t try to level itself, and perform the overnight leak test. I managed to find our leak in the front strut by quietly listening for the hissing leak sound.
@@wafflesquare Wow thanks for the quick reply! I should have mentioned in the comment that I have tested by pulling the fuses overnight, several times now actually, and it still drops only the front and both sides. I've listened for audible leaking as well and didn't hear any. Everything about the problem seems like it should be the valve block. Now, full disclosure, I did buy the o-ring set from Amazon, but I compared the replacements to the originals and they all appeared to be the same size/diameter. They did appear to be slightly thicker, but I didn't think this would be a problem? I could try and put the originals back on after a cleaning? Or maybe it is faulty Amazon o-rings and I should try the ones that you used?
At the 20:19 mark of this video ua-cam.com/video/RsLcT220AVU/v-deo.html Christian from LR Time describes a wear point for the front air line…
This is great Mike
Thank you, Omar!!
Great video…liked and subscribed. I recently changed my compressor and while it works fine with no faults….the vehicle is now spitting excess air after the compressor runs and also after I turn the vehicle off. I know that it is normal for some air to release after turning the vehicle off but not during startup. It sounds like the air release is from the rear of the vehicle. Could this be a valve block?
There is a valve block inside the rear driver’s side wheel well. There could be a leak there if it isn’t coming from the air compressor box.
One thing I wasn't clear on: the kit only pictures two of the tiniest o-rings used by the center valve (37:55) on the front and rear blocks, but each center valve requires two. Did the kit include 4 or did you not have enough?
The kits came with everything I needed.
What computer tool did you use
What are you referring to?
Great video and valuable information. But I have a question. Where did you find the current air compressor firmware identification in GAP Tool? I can’t find a screen that tells me this.
At around 12:00 in the video I show each screen that got me to the current firmware.
@@wafflesquare
Got it. L494 only has one firmware for air compressor. Screen looks different
Really thank u so much bro u r the best go forward dear
Faisal you are very welcome.
Hi Mike, great video with details which is refreshing. Your vehicle lift is very interesting what make and mode is it, I'm looking for something similar, did you or does it have dogs location for the Chassis, is it a Quick Jack, keep up the good work Dan LR4
Yes it is a Quickjack and the link is in the description of every video where I use it.
hey did all that work fix the problem Trying to let the mechanic have a place to start my lr3 2006 is doing the same thing
Yes between this and episode five the problem is fixed.
Hi brilliant video, can I ask what lift/ jack, are you using please. I am uk
The link is in the video description: QuickJack 7000L: amzn.to/39PjZiY
@wafflesquare I have subscribed to your channel, and that is because, may I say the way you explain things and your camera work as you go through them are, so good sir, it is fantastic, you don't go all technical, and keep it simple to follow. Thank you all the way from Grimsby, North East Lincolnshire UK.
All I have to do is remember when you talk about the drivers side, to me that's the passengers side. 🤣
@geoffbown7259 thank you, Geoff!!
great video. I was wondering about the scan tool you are using, Is it only for land rovers or is it for all vehicles. Do you have a link for that? thanks
The Gap IID tool is specifically for Land Rovers and Jaguars. The eBay link is in the description of every video I use it in.
For me red light suspension come on after exceeding 80km/h then do not exceed 30 m/h do any has this problem please help
Tank you for this video, I learned a lot from it. I also have a question. After replacing all the orings, is it necessary to recalibrate the suspension or not?
The suspension calibration procedure is for the ride height sensors so I suppose changing o-rings would not affect those. Personally I would calibrate it just to confirm.
@@wafflesquare thank you for the answer. My problem is that I don't have the tool for calibration. I saw that you have a video with a review for an iCarsoft tool. Will I be able to recalibrate using that tool if I buy one?
just done mine, and no no calibration needed, just some faults at the start till the compressor pumped air back into the system
Yes it does have the air suspension calibration feature.
That’s great! Good for you.
Great video. I am troubleshooting my wife’s 2006 Range Rover Sport. She’s got the 4.2SC and that Front Valve block is a pain to access due to aux cooler.
What engine do you have in that LR3 v6 or v8?
V8 petrol
What's the name of the grease used? We absolutely love your video's!
Pure silicone grease (which came with the o-ring kit).
Thanks so much!!! Your awesome!
You’re very welcome.
Fantastic video.
Is this the same compressor system used on the LR4?
I'm looking, youtube keeps showing compressors for LR3.
Again, great video.
Great question which unfortunately I don’t know the answer to. I would open the compressor box and find out what you are running in there.
Brillian video
Vic thank you so much! I’m recording part two right now on changing the front air struts and calibrating the suspension with the GAP IID tool.
Very good. Thanks!
Vesa you are very welcome!
Great vid 👍👍thankyou 🇬🇧
You are very welcome!
i love watch your video is like netflix i laren to much from you big love from barcelona
Anjum thank you so much!!
Unfortunately I have the same problem with the suspension bouncing everywhere. I tried the soap trick on the valve body no leak and then on the compressor where the air lines come out to the valve body, and it's leaky from where the hose connects to the compressor side. Do i need to replace the line or maybe there an o ring on that side?
It is very likely the same o-ring issue I had in the video (dry-rot). I would definitely check the o-rings before ordering new lines.
Mr mike I hate to correct you on one of your comments , that is not and outdoor temperature sensor 😱 it is actually a Tpms transponder part # 51732zt, there one more on right rear wheel well , the land rover is such a unique suv and very sensitive to things being unplugged I just replaced my cigarette plug in console but didn't plug back in immediate once I put in new 12v plug I tried to start my car it wouldn't start until I plug all 3 connection on lower console 😱 omg, , know I am having issue with air suspenion fault, I finally got around to installing all upper , lower control arms and all new air bags in thinking because I unplugged the TPMS sensor transponder might be keeping lr3 from inflation air bags , I find out next time I go home , in a truck driver so it might be 3 weeks b4 home again to know for sure , i do have gap tool nothing worked on trying to calibrating so I'm thinking plug up the Tpms sensor transponder in hoping , it worked fine b4 I replaced air bags , my mistake was not disconnecting battery 😰
I corrected that in the very next video
Hey there so I have a 2010 range rover sport I replaced the front air shock bags and after 2 days the truck seems to be going down do you think it can be the valve amd or the sensor as well ? Also the dynamic error code pops up as well
In episode five I demonstrate how to pull the fuse and do a proper overnight leak test without the vehicle trying to level itself. I would perform that test to see where the leak is coming from and go from there.
Did you order this kit from the UK? Or somewhere else stateside?
Link to the kit is in the description below. It is from the UK.
Hey Mike , I have a question.
My L3 has all brand new air suspension parts however while driving it the nose goes up and down randomly.
My tech couldnt figure it out and it drives us nuts.
Any idea what would be the reason for this random nose up and down action?
Again i have all new sensors and parts and there is no leak in the system.
Thx
How about the ride height sensors? I would check them as I demonstrated with the GAP ID tool to see if they are reading your manual input. Then I would calibrate the suspension.
Thank you soooooo much 😊
Jafer you are very welcome!!
Hey Waffle square!
Thank you very much for this great Video! I just replaced my AMK kompressor and now I am surching for some informations about the Air Inlet of these. Since you are also very in to the Air Suspension of this Vehicle: Do you know what the Plastik Tank does where the filtered Air goes to before it is lead to the compresssor?
Kind regards from Switzerland!😊
I believe you are talking about the desiccant dryer which dries the incoming air.
I replaced the front left strut on an LR4 today. No heat shield that I saw that I could remove but was able to get a socket on it and turn it ever so slightly and work it off. Was planning on replacing the passenger side front but I couldn’t get the rear but on that one if anyone has insight on it.
This video helped big time for the job. All tools, nut, bolt sizes were the same. Was really helpful to see it from start to finish.
I’m so glad it helped you!!
Where can I get the GAP tool ? I have a 2006 Land Rover lr3 I was wondering where I could get this tool ?
Link in the description of every video
amazing video
Thank you, Gregory!!
Just replaced my rear valve block but for some reason can’t get the line couplings to snug up without the air line twisting…
Hi l have question aborto the scanner where l can buy and what the name because l dont found scanner for reprogamer land rover discover 2005 here in usa please can you help whit this información thank you
eBay link in the description of this video.
Hi what is the gab tool and can I purchase it and from where ? Sherwin
The GAP IID tool is and OBD reader used for diagnostics and calibration specifically for Land Rovers, Range Rovers, and Jaguars. eBay link is in the description of every video I use it in.
@@wafflesquare thank you ever so much all the way from South Africa.
You are very welcome.