How to Hardwire a Radar Detector and Dashcam into your Vehicle
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- Опубліковано 25 кві 2017
- Note 1: Be sure to wire your cables behind the airbags for safety.
Note 2: Only one side of the fuse box connector is powered. Power is designed to flow across the fuse and into the RD / dashcam. Make sure your fuse tap is inserted so that power has to flow across the fuse to get to your accessories.
Radar Detector Hardwire Cable Options: www.vortexradar.com/2016/02/r...
Best Radar Detectors: www.vortexradar.com/best-rada...
Recommended Dashcams: www.vortexradar.com/dashcams/
Written Hardwire Tutorial: www.vortexradar.com/2016/07/h...
Radenso XP: bit.ly/2hNI74x
Vanture OnDash R2: geni.us/exQrem0 (Amazon)
Standard RD Hardwire Cable: bit.ly/28TJdLb or
MiniUSB Hardwire Cable: geni.us/HW5T (Amazon)
MicroUSB Hardwire Cable: geni.us/x29znD (Amazon)
Fuse types: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuse_(a...)
ATO fuse add-a-circuit kit: geni.us/1jYqwnT (Amazon)
Mini fuse add-a-circuit kit: geni.us/rMgfH6D (Amazon)
Low-profile mini fuse add-a-circuit kit: geni.us/F4pzy (Amazon)
Crimper: geni.us/5IaHaDw (Amazon)
Multimeter: geni.us/JJ2I (Amazon)
T-taps: geni.us/t-taps (Amazon)
Website: www.vortexradar.com
Facebook: / vortexradar
Twitter: / vortexradar
Instagram: / vortexradar
© 2017 Vortex Radar, LLC. All rights reserved. - Авто та транспорт
Good video, super helpful!
A few notes:
1) In my opinion, T-taps are a shoddy way to make a wiring connection in a vehicle. There is no guarantee that the T-tap will make an acceptable connection with the wire you're trying to tap. It's much safer (and cleaner) to use butt connectors.
2) I prefer the heat shrink/butt connector combos. They provide a solid connection when crimped correctly, and are self-sealing when the heat shrink is heated/melted. I even put a length of additional heat shrink around them for added safety if I know it will be exposed to moisture (like when wiring trailer lights, for example).
Most clear & concise video on hardwire install I've seen yet. Great job!
Perfect video. Gave me the courage to try hardwiring my RD again. Thank you!
You couldn’t make a video more simple & understandable.
Thank you for the best ‘haw to’ video iv’e ever seen at youtube.
Now my radar detector is finally connect to the fuse box.
Thank you for such a great informative video on multiple types of connections!
4:30 Great explanations for each part - love it!
Man, with this kind of all encompassing How to guide you almost can do this without know anything at all
I mean he literally even talked through how washers on a screw work ^^. And it didn't get dull, amazing!
Glad to have found your channel.. your work is unparalleled. thanks for all the information
Excellent video. Thanks for the explanation of the add a circuit and the t-taps. Super informative.
Excellent video and explanation, I love that you kept the mistakes!
This is the best most informative video I've ever seen
This is a very excellent video. I have a radar detector that I will be installing soon and this video was a tremendous help. Thanks for porting it.
You were really good, thanks for the beautiful video.
Love when vids show the mistakes and correct it to show what to do.
Thank you!!! I figured it out thanks to your video. The t connection was confusing at first until I watched your video
You may want to attend to that cracked windscreen ASAP ... it looks like its getting bigger by the second. Nice Video.
Danger, Will Robinson!
now this is a tutorial video! awesome!!!
I really enjoy ur videos, even just listening. It's easy to understand n digest n not full of ums n errs. Very educational n u r full of enthusiasm, subbed few weeks ago when I came across ur channel.
thank you! and welcome :)
Brilliantly explained! Thank you!
Nice. You make it look so easy! I am going to try it. Thanks for taking the time.
What's up with that gora first name
This helped me tremendously. Thanks
You did a great job congratulations I learned so much just watching you thank thank you thank you
I needed this, thank you!!!!
Really well done and helpful video you explained things very well and weren't afraid to correct your mistake. You've earned a sub good sir 🙌🏼
Welcome aboard!
Awesome videos, you would make a great teacher!!
Nice! Great install!
Thank you great video as always
Great job on install video!
Excellent "How To" video plus you showed some mistakes that hopefully others won't make.
Add-a-circuit - aka - Fuse Tap Adapter
It is an industry standard to strip off twice as much insulation & fold the exposed wire to create a larger diameter of wire that can be crimped onto.
Your vehicle required the same "Low Profile" Fuse Tap Adapter as my car.
Dashcams with a "Parking Mode" feature will have a 3rd wire that needs to be plugged into the fuse box that has power to it all the time.
Nice video, now it's time for a new windshield install! LOL I don't know about WA but here in FL, you get a free windshield replacement with all insurance companies for cracks etc. I had to use it once and didn't pay a dime.
Lucky! We looked into it and it costs about $500 to get a new windshield here, no freebies unfortunately. That'd be super nice if it was the case for us too though! :)
Thanks for this video.
Nice Kline Crimping tool....... about the best name in wire working tools.
Thanks, just got my max 360 .
Good job, thank you!
Awesome! Thanks for the video. :)
Wonderful job done. I can feel the comfort while u were driving after it was all set. One thing I want to point out though (maybe a mistake) In the A-Pillar you have to pop it off, and maneuver the wires Behind the SRS-Curtain-Airbag. In most of the cars (like in all of mine) this airbag is all the way upto the level of shoulder of driver in seat. The way you tucked the wires in, is really a danger and hazard for sure. When the airbag would be in action both the wires would be in the way of it. I have a video for Viofo A-129 Duo on my channel showing how THICK the wires for Viofo A129 Duo are. They would be a danger in this case. In my vidoe I have also shown the length of airbag in toyota Corolla 2017. I have learnt a lot from your videos over the year. Thanks for all of that
You are right. I went back afterwards to tuck my cables behind the airbag, but I forgot to mention that in the video. Speaking of which, I'll make note about that in the video description. Thanks for bringing that up!
Well done! Thanks
Cool video !!!!
nice video keep going I like you videos
I personally would recommend soldering over using a vampire connector. Solder and heated shrink wrap holds much better.
I saw that crimping problem coming! Great job on stopping to include the narrative on that. Keep the videos coming.
This video is perfect for me because I have the same car, except mine is right hand drive. I have a dash cam and hardwire kit coming soon that has parking mode. There is a third wire constant power (yellow wire). In the Honda which fuse would you choose the tap into if you had this wire option?
Loved the vid, very informative. A suggestion... go buy a ratchet and some sockets, could have save yourself the headache... when you couldn't fit your "wrench" in there.
Thank you. I could use some more tools. 😄
How lucky! I've got a Honda Fit too! So I can do the exact same thing. Although I'm only installing the dash-cam. I can't see the point of a radar detector in a Honda Fit!
Hi, I wired my dash cam with smartcord escord exactly like it's supposed to and my alert red light is always on but all the features work great. Any issues you can think of?
thanks
When using an add a circuit for a radar detector should the in line fuse on the detector power cable be eliminated since there is the fuse on the add a circuit?
👍very useful
Hey I need you to start endorsing trash bags to put Rocky Mountain Radar products in!! Lol!! Because their products are garbage
You want to avoid T-taps... Solder or crimp. If you are going to hard wire it, do it correctly. T-taps cut into the insulation and the wire comprimising the wire. Don't go cheap
Hey, I was just wondering, what do you think about using a wago connector instead?
Nice video has a lot of useful information, thanks, How to make the dash camera always on ((recording in active mode) even when the car is off?
Either wire it into a dedicated dashcam battery or wire it into your car battery as well using a special 3-wire hardwire cable.
Excellent video, regarding the 20:10 minute mark, isn't placing the wiring where the side curtain airbag is a bit dangerous ?
Can i splice the factory RD power cord and just add a inline fuse as well as the add-a-circuit?
Hi. Can you show how to hardwire ( tap ) a RD and dashcam into the power of a rear view mirror? Thanks for all your great videos.
Thought about it.. maybe eventually. It basically just involves probing around your RVM's wiring harness with a multimeter to find the power and ground and then plugging your hardwire cable into those ports. The exact ports you'll need to either Google around for or just find via trial and error.
If I could like this 1000 times I would. Thank you! Also, does it matter which way the fuse tap goes in the fuse box? Some people are saying its important to have it the right way
Good question. I've been wondering this too so I tried it this morning after seeing your post and it didn't seem to make a difference. Here's the discussion: www.rdforum.org/index.php?threads/75346/
I got the idea from this video here.
ua-cam.com/video/8b9CvUMcNQo/v-deo.html
I also posted the video on RDF(under a different name)
@@VortexRadar information from an installer at my local audio shop... The "top" of the piggyback is where the red wire comes out. The fuse that you pull from the fuse panel goes in the bottom of the piggyback. The one for what you are adding goes in the top and must be of lower amperage than the original one. The blade opposite where the wire comes out must be inserted into the side of the empty spot for the fuse that reads 12v. I actually used a piggyback today for a little project in my 2007 Tundra. I used the cigarette lighter spot. I also have some open spots in the fuse panel that go on and off with the truck... Future projects. 😂 Possibly both a radar detector and dashcam. I also want to install 2 small cameras to record police interactions on the overhead console on a switch. So if I have to turn off the truck or the keys are taken the cameras will be on.
The radar detector I recently purchased has an auxiliary style power plug, so the hardwire harness I need actually has three cables; two power and a ground. How would I approach this to make it work?
18:09 Oh! Why hello there beautiful! I had no idea I looked so good... (The camera has it's reflection in the mirror! ;))
I have a uniden r3 hardwired to my motorcycle using the uniden smart hardwire cable. Some times the detector will reboot itself randomly after i go over a bump or completely shut off my wiring connection is tight nothing loose any ideas?
I wish I had this before hardwireing my radar. I was all confused about how to hook up the wires. Looking back I wish I looked up what fuse I was going to use in my fuse box and also which fuses shut off when the battery turns off and then bought my add a circuit accordingly. I got a mini blade add a circuit and most of the those in my car stay powered on after car was off. Wish I got a full sized blade.
Been there, done that. Now I spend hours researching and watching videos before doing stuff like this.
Hi. Great videos, however do you have a specific fitment as far as power cable that will work with the R3? I don't have any idea what other detectors have a telephone style jack that is only used for power. Thanks.
Any standard power cable will fit the R3.
One thing I do know is the add a circuit are directional based on which end of the fuse is the input voltage
He really didn't say anything about "orientation" of the Fuse Tap Adapter - v-e-r-y important.
Can i use the Add-A-Circuit with a 15 amp fuse? My cigarette lighter has ATO (regular) 20amp fuse.
If you wired it all first and then conected to power, yo would be abpe to cut away excess wire, also not that important but i'd heat shrink every conection, just for mesurement
This popped up on recommended videos and I remembered seeing this, then later seeing your video on your recent professional install where the installers HATED T-taps. Since you have absolutely nothing important to do now or after your new baby is born, maybe a new video without T-taps is in order? 🤪
lol yeah. I’d love to do another updated video, but it’s so low on the priority list at this point that realistically it’s not gonna happen.
Do you leave the fuse box open after connecting it? I can’t close mine
Use the correct sized t-tap. They are different colors for a reason. Match the colors...the reason for your bad ground for the dashcam. With the correct t-tap the sheathing is stopped by the metal that you crimp.
Good video. Maybe I missed it? Would be helpful to show people which circuit to tap into? I.e., one that is on/off with the ignition…
Does the radar detector get in the way of the sun visor?
Once you have everything set, and you have your RJ cable out to plug your RD, does it make a difference between Valentine, Escort etc... i mena can you interchange them being all RJ compatible ...or else?!
+menemme They're interchangeable
Do power outlets ok to use the fuse taps on when hardwiring dash cams? I have one that is constant and one on ignition on.. Both power outlet has 15A, and i used 10A fuse for the 2nd fuse.. Wondering if i did was ok
Use the ignition one to have your dashcam turn on and off with your car. Use the constant one to keep it on for parking mode. Make sure your dashcam has parking mode functionality and voltage management so it doesn't drain your battery if you use the constant one. 10A is more than you'd need. 2-5 is sufficient.
Why do you keep the inline fuse as well as the new fuse box fuse? Is this necessary?
Is that a massive crack in the windscreen?
Im going to use the AC fuse because Im deleting the AC system this summer and installing GPS DASHCAM and RADAR
I'm trying to determine if the tint line and or dots have any metallic the most i see is maybe a slight difference in signal strength, if there is any metallic would there be a stark difference?
+Hudi bloch It should be a pretty noticeable difference, yeah
The fuse that you pull from the fuse panel goes in the bottom of the piggyback...NOT THE TOP...Install the fuse for what you are adding in the top. This fuse should be of a lower anperage value than the original. Pull the fuse where you want to insert the piggyback and test with the voltmeter. Find the 12v side. The blade of the piggyback opposite where the wire comes out must be inserted into the side reading 12v. I just used a piggyback today. Please read the directions.
Hey Vortex, does this kit come with the plug for the fuse box or does that connection need to be purchased separately?
Some kits come with the fuse tap, some don't. Check what is included in whichever kit you're looking at and ensure it's the correct size for your vehicle.
Can I ask - is it electronically safe to share the ground wires from two devices to the one ground hook-up? I know it will work - was told one time you should not combine the ground wires...your thoughts? I mean it is low voltage.
He literally does it in this video
I'm seeing the voltage read out on my radar detector after I put connect a 7 foot straight phone wire drop about .5 V as opposed when I wire it directly with the cord that it came with, is that a problem do I need a different phone wire? Also is there a minimum voltage that the radar detector needs to operate at full strength I have seen as low as 11.6 V?
+Hudi bloch Check the specs in the manual. RD's are designed to operate with a range of voltages.
3:00
I guess the day cam has no ground wire haha
It looks like you have the Add-a-Fuse set to completely bypass the actual fuses (24:27). If the power is coming in on the left terminal and the outlet to the Vampire is also on the left then you aren't flowing through the fuses. Just flip it upside down so that the power flows through the fuse to then power the devices. The devices will work fine as it is setup however, if something were to get overloaded it would melt the cables rather than pop a fuse because the power isn't going through the fuses.
A way you can check this is if you remove the fuse and the device doesn't lose power.
I did, yes. It was a mistake and is listed right at the top of the video description. Thanks for pointing that detail out!
Negative ghostrider. That's NOT what happens.
Hi! does it affect my car warranty?
Hello Vortex,
I have a cheap dash cam without a screen monitor, can a GPS garmin or an old cell phone be used as a monitor?
Respectfully,
AG
+Alexander Gonzalez Not if it doesn't natively support that functionality already
So when adding multiple loads to one 'add-a-circuit' could that potentially cause issue with to much load or something is there any cons to doing it all on one circuit? Would it be better to wire these separately? Like how much power do they pull each and combined?
You wanna do the math and figure out how much power each individual device requires, sum that up, and choose a fuse that’s a little bigger than that.
My fuse taps did not come with any fuses. Is there a standard amperage for a fuse for dashcams. I keep running into 5A but I want to be sure. Thank you.
2-3A should be plenty. Same with 5A.
My dash cam uses a micro USB style connector. I purchased one online which has the male micro USB on one side and a USB A on the other side. My question is, do I need to purchase a cigarette lighter socket and plug the the USB A into a charging adapter OR can I simply cut off the USB A and tap into the add a fuse wire?
If you're comfortable cutting off the USB A cable and determining which wires you should use for the tap, you can do so. Just keep in mind you'll also need to convert the 12v from your car to 5v for USB. You can't just plug it in directly. You may be better off buying a hardwire cable specifically designed for it that also includes the necessary connectors, fuse, voltage converter, etc. amzn.to/3dLDE0l
Could you run just the dash cam cord all the way down into the box, then just use a tap up by the radar detector into the dash cam's cord?
That could work if you can tap into both the power and ground wires in the hardwire cable. You'll also want to make sure the power cable is 12v all the way. USB connectors will switch from 12v to 5v.
If I am only hardwiring one item, can I splice that connector off the end and crimp the wires into the add a fuse, add my original fuse and a 5-10A fuse , and ground it out?
Sure. There’s more than one way to skin a cat. :)
I'm debating using this hard wire method or the rear view mirror tapping method. Is there an advantage to using one method over the other?
RVM is quicker and easier. If you've got a V1 with a BT module, you'll probably want to do a traditional hardwire so you can tuck the BT module away somewhere. Same thing if you're wanting to run a dashcam with parking mode and you'll want additional power management accessories like a Power Magic Pro. Otherwise for just a RD, whichever one is easier for you. :)
Hard wire is less likely to have the MirrorTap leads fall out of the powered mirror sockets or fray.
Why not "Tin the wire's with solder" to increase the size so the crimp is more solid?
Hi when using add a circuit should i put 2 fuse or just one. Example i want to wire my radar into audio or cigarette lighter using add a circuit which is 15A.
You need two, one for the existing devices and a second for the new ones you're adding.
@@VortexRadar ok. Sounds. Do i have to use the same fuse or just add 5A instead 15A.
Thanks for making this video. Are there any advantages, signal wise, to mounting the radar detector up high, like you did, vs down low and near the dash board?
I see a lot of people tend to mount them high up. I’m not really sure why people do that. Police are trained to aim their radar at the License plates of cars so I would think it would make more sense to be lower on the windshield. Either way I don’t think their is enough of a difference in performance for it to genuinely matter.
If there are already a bunch of empty fuse slots, can we just use that? Do we have to pull out an existing fuse
Sure
Didyou check the fueboard without the fuse to make sure the additional fuse is the right way around?
I forgot to mention this in the video so I have since added a note in the video description. Thanks!
Will this also fit and charge go pro. I just need the power for overnight
In theory, yes. You’ll want a cable with voltage management to stop powering the GoPro before your car battery drains too far. GoPros aren’t the best for parked recording, but they can work.
How do I hook my mute button for my radar detector that I currently have into this though?
Little note, you actually installed it backwards in the circuit so you have no fuse protection. You measured the load side as the left side in this case, the side that gave 12V, and that side should be connected with the cable end facing away from it. Otherwise you are adding the current of both fuses in order to trip to the system and above 20A you might as well not have a fuse since something is seriously wrong.
Look at this video that explains it: ua-cam.com/video/8b9CvUMcNQo/v-deo.html
Yeah I admittedly didn't realize that at the time. I've put a note about it right at the top of the video description since which I hope people read, but I know not everyone sees that.
@@VortexRadar didn't see that. Good note. Thanks again for the helpful video.
So do the new accessories shut off automatically when you turn off engine or what ever?
So long as you wire them into a power source that turns off with your car, yes sir.
Can you make a video on how to mirror tap?
Thought about it.. maybe eventually. It basically just involves probing around your RVM's power cable to find the power and ground and then plugging your cable into those ports. The exact cables you'll need to either Google around for or just find via trial and error.
A+++
Will any of these hardwire kits work on the Uniden R3? They're branded as Escort, Belltronics, Cobra, etc....
The Uniden uses the standard phone jack connector style that other detectors use so they are cross-compatible for power. If it's a fancy power cable from another brand with mute buttons or external alert LED's, those won't work, but strictly in terms of power, so long as they share the same connector, they'll work fine.
Vortex Radar awesome thank you for the help
Vortex Radar is there a link for that?
If I wanted to connect my V1 to a bluetooth module, how exactly would that work?
Valentine has a custom hardwire cable with a second port to plug in the BT module. ua-cam.com/video/nfQmbh5C7PQ/v-deo.html
Just one question. I have the same cable for the dashcam like you and there is a fusebox on the cable(tha's black one). Nevertheless you have to add a 5A fuse to the "add a circuit" cable?
You do need a fuse, yeah. The add-a-circuit has two fuse slots. One is for the one you pull out of your car and put in to the add-a-circuit. The other is for the accessories connected to the add-a-circuit itself.
Thanks a lot :)