@@jimmieyecyec8780 If the device you're adding operates at that voltage and the circuit you are integrating into is the same voltage. If not, you need an external voltage regulator for the aftermarket device.
Agreed! It clears up specifically what the orientation affects, instead of just saying one orientation is right and the other is wrong. Just because there’s a better way to do something doesn’t mean people shouldn’t understand all the details. Foundational knowledge like this is what helps people understand more advanced things down the line.
This is a good subject to bring up. When I first started using these, I didn't consider the functionality you describe and had to revisit some that I had put in my wife's Bronco and my truck. That being said, I don't' know what the manufacturer recommends and I'm no automotive EE, but I think what you recommend is not correct unless you can confirm that the fuse panel has a high enough rating in the panel. Certainly fuses are there to protect the wiring after the fuse, but the manufacturer has the BUS and wiring leading to the fuse with the load in mind as well. IMO the main circuit (original rating) fuse should protect the draw from both loads until you confirm that the entire run (before and after) can support both loads. This has the effect that sort of makes the add-on accessory subservient to the main load fuse. Yes this runs the risk of popping that fuse and cutting power to 2 accessories more often, but that keep the wiring safe, which is one of the main reasons you fuse before the wiring in the first place. The key is to pick the right load to tap into, an intermittent one that ideally isn't being used when the second load is active or that has a high start-up draw. A 'cigarette lighter' fuse position is a perfect choice. It has user controlled demand. Ultimately, I don't think it matters, since I don't think you should tap more than about 5A this way anyhow. High wattage transceivers (CB, ham, GMRS), off-road lights, air pumps, coolers and etc. should be run off a dedicated circuit from the battery, in my opinion. I've set up a bus for those before to minimize the battery connections.
i think i agree with you.. i would WANT my "aftermarket" device to trip off and not run if the fuse blew. It would indicate something is wrong. If i connected it the way suggested where constant power is going to it, something is off, and the source fuse blew, but i may not relaize it if its something small
It's a good thing I caught your video before messing around with my car's fuse box. I really thought the taps were plug and play; the orientation is critical and must be stressed out. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, man! 🤙🤙
Mate, I am a house electrician and I have a pretty good knowledge of car wiring too. I am sincerely impressed with your explanation of a very important point in connecting to an automotive circuit. What a great video and a very clear explanation about what to do and not to do. I see from the comments below you have probably saved a lot of headaches if not lives. Cheers to you.😃
Thank you very much Anthony for the clear instructions and very useful practical demo. I am 70 and just decided to install my own dash cam |(for the first time)which requires permanent 12V supply . Your testing of the wire tap is very useful to make sure that my dashcam do not go through the host fuse below.👋👌 much appreciated.🙏🖖
Those are good points. Traditional engineering aims to position fuses upstream of the wires they protect, but there is a practicality of how to protect the short stretch of wiring leading to the fuse. When those boxes are designed the engineers will not consider that somebody would tap a fuse and add more current. So, you take a small risk to upstream wiring when you add a second circuit in parallel. If you have add a 5 amp circuit to a 10 amp preexisting circuit, now the maximum upstream current is 15, not 10. I agree with your remark that putting fuses in series for branch circuits feels messy, but it does safely limit upstream current to what it was designed for, 10 in that example. Fortunately there is usually enough tolerance built into standards that the risk is low. Even so, I like your idea of a relay, which allows design of the heavy elements of the circuit directly from a source of power.
I agree, it is safer to run all the current through the bottom fuse so you protect your car wiring from being overloaded. That is the purpose of having the fuse.
This is the single best video after I have spent loads of time on the research. Most videos on youtube just barely touch the safety topics here and it doesn't feel right.
In other words, if you first test only the new fuse (in the slot closest to the wire), you can determine the correct orientation based whether or not your accessory is getting power, without needing to check for continuity. Great video!
Just what I was looking for. I did assume correctly about the placement of the factory v aftermarket fuse because of the lead wire's placement, but watching your instructional video taught me how to confirm/test these taps/adapters. Thank you.
Excellent explanation with the whole picture including the meter on continuity,I’m an electrician (commercial) not automotive. Thanks so much for making the video. I posted a written explanation before with a hand drawn diagram but you took it to another level. Especially explaining Not to tap off critical task functions.❤
Thank's. This was a good explanation of what to expect when tapping a fuse. I bought a new set of headlights that requires a fuse tap for the DRL's and no tap was included for the harness. Now I know what I need and how to use it.
This video was amazing, it help me figure out exactly what my problem was by explaining the fuse adapters needing to be plugged in a certain way to get power. I was able to figure out where to get power and hook up my Dash cam and backup camera to my interior fuse box. Thanks for making such a great video!
Excellent tutorial! All my Camera/Radar Detectors use this method. It's getting harder on new cars to find a ACC ON fuse. I had to use the passenger's heater circuit. LOL!
@@korkser Just make sure where you take your power is not a Critical System. Try using secondary systems that can handle the extra power draw, such as radio, amplifier, seat heaters, mirror motor circuits, etc... Every car is different and so are the challenges.
Thank you!!!!!!❤ cause my mechanic split it with my left speaker with my ignition coil 😂 I'm a 38 female and this made the fix so easy to fix!!! THANK YOU!!! ❤❤❤❤
Hi, great video and amazing explanation just one question if you could answer please 🙏 So for the fuse adapter when you plug in the car fuse and then have to put another fuse on top which fuse do you have to put on top ?
The fuse that put on top is your new additional fuse where you supposed to run your additional new circuit. The fuse in the bottom is the old factory existing fuse.🙂
This is a good video Im not sure showing a relay was needed for this video. stressing out the wire can get confusing. Maybe a tutorial, or a series might be helpful Thanks again
Does the after market fuse’s amber has to be strictly less than the original circuit fuse, or it can be equal to it also? And which one is better, the original fuse’ amber equal to the aftermarket one, or it is bigger than it?
Real important point is that the Fuse Tap pin furthest from the Fuse Tap cable is where active power should come in. So in the example shown initially inside the fuse box, with power to the right side of the fuse, that means the fuse tap cable should run to the left. Often people will mistakenly orient the fuse tap where it best fits.
Find your wiper blade fuse. It always has no power with key off and power with key on. In my vehicle the wiper blade fuse is inside my vehicle so it makes it easy to run your power to the dash cam. Great video. I needed a refresher.
7:59 at this time you said to pick and ignition fuse to tap into but a couple seconds later you said not to tap into ignition. Which one did you mean if you don’t mind? Also what about empty fuse ports? Would we be able to use those spots by just adding a fuse in there? If not how come?
That's fine since the equipment isn't in the truck. You're just treating it like a "spare" location. If the truck had 4WD I wouldn't use that location though because it's too essential of an item.
Cool. I actually picked these up to use as a tap on an Amp Buddy to get voltage in addition to current readings on a pico scope (won't be drawing any Amps with it). I could use a piercing probe on the Amp Buddy loop but this seems like a better solution.
What is the voltage meter you are using at about 1:00 to 1:10 mark? Seems like it doesn't need ground and is non-contact as well just proximity. Would love to get one like that if you can provide links or info. Thanks!
hello i bought two of this cable car camera to be able to use it in parking mode. I connected it to the fuse box by adjusting the leg direction. But I could not see the voltage at the fuse tape output, is the cable broken? 4:20 I short-circuited like you did I didn't hear a beep sound on both of my wires I think were broken. in your opinion
Can you use this method to create an always hot cigarette socket? Its sole purpose would be to plug in a solar trickle charger (with an integrated charge controller) to charge the battery since the car only gets used every 2-3 weeks. Or would you just run wires directly from the cigarette plug to the battery?
Great video -- thank you. Quick question - I have '22 Buick Encore GX and trying to add dash cam to fuse box but when i test for voltage while car is off EVERY fuse seems to have 12+ volts running on them. Do you know about newer car systems holding voltage until a certain time expires? I have it plugged into the cigarette lighter power port and that thing shuts off as soon as i turn the engine off but I am not clear , by the fuse diagram, which circuit that is on but i may end up having to use a T-tap terminal to tap into that wiring for the cigarette power port so the cam shuts off when the car does.
A lot of new cars use data to turn devices on and off so all the circuits are "hot" all the time. I know it's ridiculous. What I have had to do is run a wire to accessory ports and solder to the positive wire with a fuse inline in order to get an accessory signal.
@@AnthonyJ350 Thanks for the note back on this and help explaining it. Someone else told me that it may time out after 10+ minutes but i dont want my footwell lights & dash cam to stay on that long after the car is off. Interesting on what you said you do as i did research further and decided to use a T-tap terminal and splice into the power going to the back seat accessory port and then i can use that to what i need + hide wires under the console.
Hey mate. Thank you for this video it was broken down nicely. I understand that the tap will need to be positioned correctly so that it piggybacks the constant power from the fuse box. However, where you lost me is in terms of the difference in amp between the fuse that came with the fuse tap and the normal fuse from the car. What should be the difference.
This is a very very educational video, thank you very much for this. But I need some clarification. In my Pajero Sport, I have a dedicated RELAY SLOT and FUSE SLOT for heated seat (20A) and headlamp washer (20A) which at the moment are empties because i dont have these features. Now I plan to install additional LED DRL's or aux lights (max 8A) that would stay ON the entire time while engine is running. Can I safely use those empty relay and fuse slots? Not needing anymore extra relay for those aux lights?
I think so. Heated seats pull a lot and you're attaching a device well under the rating of the wiring. As long as it's fused correctly and you pick a good ground.
Thank you for these tips. My problems solved. Just need to find out which fuses I can use to power up my aftermarket powered windows and seats. Any ideas? Once again your tips is very well appreciated.
@ Thank you for your response. With that setup would I still get a continuous power? Not like other accessories(cigarette lighter or radio) it’s off when the car is off. And that the set up I would like for the powered seats and windows. Trying to avoid the battery from getting drained. Btw I do have relays but not sure if that will work . Do you have realy recommendations for my applications. Thank you
Not sure I got your valuable knowlegde sharing as I'm not electrician and have no idea about this. I have bought a dashcam with hardwire kit which required to be connected to fuses in my Rav4 LE AWD 2018. I'm struggling with these things and dont know how to do. Could you recommend?
I'm troubleshooting dashcam installation. this video on fuse tap has been very helpful. is it safe to assume. if the car is using a fuse, the fuse is not directional. only amp matters. BUT the fuse tap has polarity?
So to sum it up, if you did it correctly you can test if you did it correctly by disconnecting one of the fuses the other one should stay on, if you connect it back and disconnect the other fuse the other one should stay on?
I hooked up a light bar to my fuse box. I used an add a fuse tap and added it to the tailight fuse. The light bar never shuts off. What did I do wrong?
Wow this is very helpful. I do have a question though.... i was trying to wired some very small led lights that arent for headlights or anything, its something custom. Very small. The controller module for the lights say 5v on it. It originally came with a usb but i cut the usb and used a fuse tap on it. Is there a way to limit the 12v power to 5v because i think it fried my module.
If I utilize an unused(spare) fuse spot that has power and a fuse present already, do I need two fuses on the tap or can i just move the original fuse up to the second slot for power to the accessory? thanks!
I have put a 5.3 in a 95 mustang and putting in a standalone harness. The power wire needs to be hot with key/on. I was told that I could hook it to a 50amp fuse in the cars factory fuse block... Need help, what is your opinion on this. Just trying to get it running and reliable. There is also a purple wire that is to be hooked up to the fuel pump also. Thank you
I would integrate with the ignition harness, via soldering. You can use a poke and wrap technique and solder after with a fuse inline. How much amperage does the line need? You might need to use a relay to deliver the power from the battery.
6:47 First, based on your example, the red fuse (bottom slot) is the factory fuse and the orange fuse (upper slot) is aftermarket? Second, you said the factory fuse recommended to have more amps than the aftermarket? I almost understand your explanation 99% but just need 1% clarification. Thank you sir
Awesome video. Thank you! Question, so if the LED strip I'm going install requires 10A, you mean I should add the fuse tap to a 20A spare? You mentioned to ensure anything you add should be less than the original. Or, I'm going into an spare unused 10A, I can use the 10A fuse there?
I would only match the original. Also look at the device you're installing to see it's amperage requirements. If it's a lot, I use the fuse tap to only control a relay and the relay sends power from the battery.
Very cool, I just used one on a set of driving lights with a slider controller. There seems to be some power getting by for a quick second. When I turn power to the vehicle on the lights flash for a split second, any thoughts?
Something probably back feeding. I would use a relay to power the lights (use battery power) and just use your fuse tap accessory to activate the relay. This way you isolate the lights from the circuit. What is the fuse powering in the vehicle originally?
@@AnthonyJ350 I tapped into the radio accessory inside the panel in the cabin. It provided power when the key is turned to position one. When I turn the key slow it usually does not flash the lights.
Sir I got confused now.. Should I put the stock fuse in the bottom position of the fuse tap or the top position of the fuse tap? By bottom I mean the side connected to the pins of FUSE Tap Adapter . Would really appreciate if you could reply
Can you use a fuse tap on a empty slot? My fuse box in the cab doesn’t have many options and the ones there are aren’t rated high enough for the tap fuse I was [20A] so need a [25A] or higher.
Best explanation (actually the only real explanation on UA-cam) of why not to put taps in the wrong way. Thank you.
Glad you found it helpful! 😀
Absolutely
@@AnthonyJ350hello sir my quistion compatible for a truck 24v,
@@jimmieyecyec8780 If the device you're adding operates at that voltage and the circuit you are integrating into is the same voltage. If not, you need an external voltage regulator for the aftermarket device.
So the far left tab is always the source?
Best explanation. Specially the orientation test part. No one on the UA-cam had explained this easy and best way.
Thank you so much for the kind words!
Agreed! It clears up specifically what the orientation affects, instead of just saying one orientation is right and the other is wrong.
Just because there’s a better way to do something doesn’t mean people shouldn’t understand all the details. Foundational knowledge like this is what helps people understand more advanced things down the line.
I have watched several videos on this subject; yours is the easiest to understand. Thank you
Glad the video helped you!
I’m lost. I’m trying to do this with clearance lights on my truck.
This is a good subject to bring up. When I first started using these, I didn't consider the functionality you describe and had to revisit some that I had put in my wife's Bronco and my truck. That being said, I don't' know what the manufacturer recommends and I'm no automotive EE, but I think what you recommend is not correct unless you can confirm that the fuse panel has a high enough rating in the panel. Certainly fuses are there to protect the wiring after the fuse, but the manufacturer has the BUS and wiring leading to the fuse with the load in mind as well. IMO the main circuit (original rating) fuse should protect the draw from both loads until you confirm that the entire run (before and after) can support both loads. This has the effect that sort of makes the add-on accessory subservient to the main load fuse. Yes this runs the risk of popping that fuse and cutting power to 2 accessories more often, but that keep the wiring safe, which is one of the main reasons you fuse before the wiring in the first place. The key is to pick the right load to tap into, an intermittent one that ideally isn't being used when the second load is active or that has a high start-up draw. A 'cigarette lighter' fuse position is a perfect choice. It has user controlled demand.
Ultimately, I don't think it matters, since I don't think you should tap more than about 5A this way anyhow. High wattage transceivers (CB, ham, GMRS), off-road lights, air pumps, coolers and etc. should be run off a dedicated circuit from the battery, in my opinion. I've set up a bus for those before to minimize the battery connections.
That's why they're only suited for low amperage applications or just used as triggers.
i think i agree with you.. i would WANT my "aftermarket" device to trip off and not run if the fuse blew. It would indicate something is wrong. If i connected it the way suggested where constant power is going to it, something is off, and the source fuse blew, but i may not relaize it if its something small
It's a good thing I caught your video before messing around with my car's fuse box. I really thought the taps were plug and play; the orientation is critical and must be stressed out. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, man! 🤙🤙
Glad you found the video helpful! 🙂
Mate, I am a house electrician and I have a pretty good knowledge of car wiring too. I am sincerely impressed with your explanation of a very important point in connecting to an automotive circuit. What a great video and a very clear explanation about what to do and not to do. I see from the comments below you have probably saved a lot of headaches if not lives. Cheers to you.😃
Thank you for watching!
Thank you very much Anthony for the clear instructions and very useful practical demo. I am 70 and just decided to install my own dash cam |(for the first time)which requires permanent 12V supply . Your testing of the wire tap is very useful to make sure that my dashcam do not go through the host fuse below.👋👌 much appreciated.🙏🖖
So glad to hear the video helped you 🙂
Thank you so much for taking the time and effort to explain it. It really helped me a lot.
So glad to hear it helped you 🙂
Those are good points. Traditional engineering aims to position fuses upstream of the wires they protect, but there is a practicality of how to protect the short stretch of wiring leading to the fuse. When those boxes are designed the engineers will not consider that somebody would tap a fuse and add more current. So, you take a small risk to upstream wiring when you add a second circuit in parallel. If you have add a 5 amp circuit to a 10 amp preexisting circuit, now the maximum upstream current is 15, not 10. I agree with your remark that putting fuses in series for branch circuits feels messy, but it does safely limit upstream current to what it was designed for, 10 in that example. Fortunately there is usually enough tolerance built into standards that the risk is low. Even so, I like your idea of a relay, which allows design of the heavy elements of the circuit directly from a source of power.
Thanks for the comment!
I agree, it is safer to run all the current through the bottom fuse so you protect your car wiring from being overloaded. That is the purpose of having the fuse.
This is the single best video after I have spent loads of time on the research. Most videos on youtube just barely touch the safety topics here and it doesn't feel right.
So glad the video helped! 🙂
In other words, if you first test only the new fuse (in the slot closest to the wire), you can determine the correct orientation based whether or not your accessory is getting power, without needing to check for continuity.
Great video!
Thanks for watching!
Just what I was looking for. I did assume correctly about the placement of the factory v aftermarket fuse because of the lead wire's placement, but watching your instructional video taught me how to confirm/test these taps/adapters. Thank you.
Glad it helped!
This video really made it click how these taps work, awesome video!
Glad it helped!
Excellent explanation with the whole picture including the meter on continuity,I’m an electrician (commercial) not automotive.
Thanks so much for making the video.
I posted a written explanation before with a hand drawn diagram but you took it to another level.
Especially explaining Not to tap off critical task functions.❤
So glad you found the information useful 🙂
Thank's. This was a good explanation of what to expect when tapping a fuse.
I bought a new set of headlights that requires a fuse tap for the DRL's and no tap was included for the harness.
Now I know what I need and how to use it.
Glad it helped!
This video was amazing, it help me figure out exactly what my problem was by explaining the fuse adapters needing to be plugged in a certain way to get power. I was able to figure out where to get power and hook up my Dash cam and backup camera to my interior fuse box. Thanks for making such a great video!
Thank you for watching!
Great information, that even the fuse tap manufacturers don't provide.
Glad it helped!
What a brilliant simple explanation ..Nobody I know ever mentioned this before ..Thankyou so much .
Glad the video helped you!
Fantastic explanation!!!! This was straight forward and clear cut.
Glad the video helped you!
thank You very much for explanation of taps and why not to put taps in the wrong way. Thank you.
You're welcome!
Excellent tutorial! All my Camera/Radar Detectors use this method. It's getting harder on new cars to find a ACC ON fuse. I had to use the passenger's heater circuit. LOL!
Glad you liked it!
Try the spare ports.
@@deldili6598 Yes ofcourse, if the spare ports are ON when you want them to. In a lot of my cases, the spare ports are Constant ON and not ACC ON.
@stealthg35infiniti94 yep had the same problem with spare ports. I ended up using cluster, not sure what else I should do for another tap
@@korkser Just make sure where you take your power is not a Critical System. Try using secondary systems that can handle the extra power draw, such as radio, amplifier, seat heaters, mirror motor circuits, etc... Every car is different and so are the challenges.
I didn't even know I needed to watch this vid but youtube kept suggesting it over and over again and now I'm glad I watched it!!
Glad the video helped you!
Thank you!!!!!!❤ cause my mechanic split it with my left speaker with my ignition coil 😂 I'm a 38 female and this made the fix so easy to fix!!! THANK YOU!!! ❤❤❤❤
Glad it helped!
Great explanation. I like the variation of Souce & Device vs. Line & Load.
Glad you liked the video 🙂
This is really well explained!
Off to check my fuse taps now 😮
Glad the video helped!
Always putting out the excellent info, even learned something about the orientation. I'll have to check my tap(s).
Thanks for watching so regularly!
@4:10 you say the size of the new fuse has to be larger but if im installing a dash cm how do i know what new fuse to use?
Equivalent to the new device requirements.
Outstanding - - - Orientation is very important. Your video is the first I've seen that provides proper connection education.👍
So glad you found value in the video!
Hi, great video and amazing explanation just one question if you could answer please 🙏 So for the fuse adapter when you plug in the car fuse and then have to put another fuse on top which fuse do you have to put on top ?
How come you're adding another fuse on top?
The fuse that put on top is your new additional fuse where you supposed to run your additional new circuit. The fuse in the bottom is the old factory existing fuse.🙂
thanks for this. got a new truck with no 12v in cabin so I need to wire in my own. now I'm sure it'll get done right.
Glad the video helped!
clear video 👍. these remind me of those plug adapters people used to piggy back plugs years ago ! they were a stupid idea too !
Thanks for watching!
This is a good video
Im not sure showing a relay was needed for this video.
stressing out the wire can get confusing.
Maybe a tutorial, or a series might be helpful
Thanks again
Thanks for watching
Thanks for the vid! needed it for installing W1 gauge cluster on my 350z
Glad the video helped you!
Does the after market fuse’s amber has to be strictly less than the original circuit fuse, or it can be equal to it also? And which one is better, the original fuse’ amber equal to the aftermarket one, or it is bigger than it?
Preferably smaller. If you have to pull amperage, use the fuse tap to control a relay that is fused and hooked up to the battery.
Real important point is that the Fuse Tap pin furthest from the Fuse Tap cable is where active power should come in. So in the example shown initially inside the fuse box, with power to the right side of the fuse, that means the fuse tap cable should run to the left. Often people will mistakenly orient the fuse tap where it best fits.
Thanks for the comment!
Very insightful video! Thanks for sharing this. Those precautions are missing from the other videos I watched on this topic.
Glad you found the video helpful!
Find your wiper blade fuse. It always has no power with key off and power with key on. In my vehicle the wiper blade fuse is inside my vehicle so it makes it easy to run your power to the dash cam. Great video. I needed a refresher.
I wouldn't pick that circuit because it's a safety item.
@@AnthonyJ350 Good point. Can't argue that.
7:59 at this time you said to pick and ignition fuse to tap into but a couple seconds later you said not to tap into ignition. Which one did you mean if you don’t mind? Also what about empty fuse ports? Would we be able to use those spots by just adding a fuse in there? If not how come?
Meant a non-essential circuit that swtiches on and off with ignition. Like a "power port" circuit.
Thnx for the tip. 'Littelfuse' Mini Add-A--Circuit Holder instructions say what you said about checking for proper polarity.
Glad it helped!
Very good explanation, thank you.
You're welcome!
GREAT video and clear demonstration, mate! Now I have some basic concept on the fuse box and the tap, thank you so much!
Thank you! Glad the video helped!
great tutorial! i like the detailed explanation - thanks
You're welcome!
great explanation on the adda-fuse, simples !
Thanks so much for watching!
I am installing a led light strip do you think it will be ok to connect it to the daytime running lights?
Yep
If you want them to turn on with that circuit.
I did choose to hook to the 4WD fuse power slot - it's there on all Silverados, yet mine and many others are only 2WD's.
That's fine since the equipment isn't in the truck. You're just treating it like a "spare" location.
If the truck had 4WD I wouldn't use that location though because it's too essential of an item.
Cool. I actually picked these up to use as a tap on an Amp Buddy to get voltage in addition to current readings on a pico scope (won't be drawing any Amps with it). I could use a piercing probe on the Amp Buddy loop but this seems like a better solution.
Let us know how it works out.
Very helpful and thorough. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
You are a god among men, thank you!
Thank you for the kind words!
Absolutely Bomb Explanation!
Glad the video helped you 🙂
super insightful. thank you for this tutorial
Glad it helped!
Best UA-cam video about fuses!! No one explains it better than you my good sir 🫡 I learned so much! Now I can use this to install my dash cam.
Happy to hear the video helped you!
What is the voltage meter you are using at about 1:00 to 1:10 mark? Seems like it doesn't need ground and is non-contact as well just proximity. Would love to get one like that if you can provide links or info. Thanks!
It needs ground. I have the cable hooked up to chassis, you just can't see it on camera.
hello i bought two of this cable car camera to be able to use it in parking mode. I connected it to the fuse box by adjusting the leg direction. But I could not see the voltage at the fuse tape output, is the cable broken? 4:20 I short-circuited like you did I didn't hear a beep sound on both of my wires I think were broken. in your opinion
Might be
Thank you. Very good and clear explanation.
Glad the video helped you!
Thanks for\ sharing,. There is definitely some info in this video, that I hadn;t seen yet, some critical info! Aloha
So glad to hear you got some value from this information 🙂
This is a million dollar video! LIKE.
Thank you for watching!
Thank you for your very valuable video s Anthony, but you have to consider adding captions for us hard of hearing viewers
You're welcome. I was under the impression I had auto captions turned on and UA-cam creates them if you enable it.
thank you so much, very useful guidance
You are welcome!
Can you use this method to create an always hot cigarette socket? Its sole purpose would be to plug in a solar trickle charger (with an integrated charge controller) to charge the battery since the car only gets used every 2-3 weeks.
Or would you just run wires directly from the cigarette plug to the battery?
You need a battery management system to do that properly and effectively.
Great information! He knows his stuff
Thanks for watching!
Great video -- thank you. Quick question - I have '22 Buick Encore GX and trying to add dash cam to fuse box but when i test for voltage while car is off EVERY fuse seems to have 12+ volts running on them. Do you know about newer car systems holding voltage until a certain time expires? I have it plugged into the cigarette lighter power port and that thing shuts off as soon as i turn the engine off but I am not clear , by the fuse diagram, which circuit that is on but i may end up having to use a T-tap terminal to tap into that wiring for the cigarette power port so the cam shuts off when the car does.
A lot of new cars use data to turn devices on and off so all the circuits are "hot" all the time. I know it's ridiculous. What I have had to do is run a wire to accessory ports and solder to the positive wire with a fuse inline in order to get an accessory signal.
@@AnthonyJ350 Thanks for the note back on this and help explaining it. Someone else told me that it may time out after 10+ minutes but i dont want my footwell lights & dash cam to stay on that long after the car is off. Interesting on what you said you do as i did research further and decided to use a T-tap terminal and splice into the power going to the back seat accessory port and then i can use that to what i need + hide wires under the console.
@YOassron The only thing I would change is swapping the t-tap to a soldered connection. Seen way too many failures caused because of t-taps.
This man is incredible thanks brother. ❤️
I appreciate that!
Well done - very useful. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Hey mate. Thank you for this video it was broken down nicely. I understand that the tap will need to be positioned correctly so that it piggybacks the constant power from the fuse box. However, where you lost me is in terms of the difference in amp between the fuse that came with the fuse tap and the normal fuse from the car. What should be the difference.
I try to always have the aftermarket fuse a smaller value than the factory one.
This is a very very educational video, thank you very much for this.
But I need some clarification. In my Pajero Sport, I have a dedicated RELAY SLOT and FUSE SLOT for heated seat (20A) and headlamp washer (20A) which at the moment are empties because i dont have these features.
Now I plan to install additional LED DRL's or aux lights (max 8A) that would stay ON the entire time while engine is running.
Can I safely use those empty relay and fuse slots? Not needing anymore extra relay for those aux lights?
I think so. Heated seats pull a lot and you're attaching a device well under the rating of the wiring. As long as it's fused correctly and you pick a good ground.
Wahoo. Thank you for resolving my trouble .I don't give 10 stars. I was given 20 stars
Thank you!
Great vid finally. Was looking for orientation in which is the power side etc. Wouldn't ideal be a slot that is empty?
Yes, ideal situation is you use a spare slot.
Thank you for these tips. My problems solved. Just need to find out which fuses I can use to power up my aftermarket powered windows and seats. Any ideas? Once again your tips is very well appreciated.
That type if install you'll need to run a thick wire to the battery and fuse it at the battery for your relays.
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Thank you for your response. With that setup would I still get a continuous power? Not like other accessories(cigarette lighter or radio) it’s off when the car is off. And that the set up I would like for the powered seats and windows. Trying to avoid the battery from getting drained.
Btw I do have relays but not sure if that will work . Do you have realy recommendations for my applications. Thank you
@@SoaringAguila1969 You would be using relays and a switch to control them. You'll need to set it up so they can only be used with ignition.
Excellent tutorial...thank you.
Thank you for watching!
Is it okay if both are 10amp or always the maine one have to be bigger not equal? Thank you.
Where did you buy the Circuit Tester which you introduced at almost the 1:00 minute mark?
Off the SnapOn truck. But you should be able to purchase the Power Probe 3 or 4 on Amazon.
@@AnthonyJ350 maybe a better question then, is what make/model are you using in the video? Power Probe does not look the same. Thank you
@@chrisshields2039 Oh that one is SnapOn. Sorry, I was looking at another video.
Incredible explanations, thank you 💪
Glad the video helped!
Not sure I got your valuable knowlegde sharing as I'm not electrician and have no idea about this. I have bought a dashcam with hardwire kit which required to be connected to fuses in my Rav4 LE AWD 2018. I'm struggling with these things and dont know how to do. Could you recommend?
Recommend bringing it to a trusted experienced install shop.
Great explanation.
Glad it was helpful!
I'm troubleshooting dashcam installation. this video on fuse tap has been very helpful.
is it safe to assume. if the car is using a fuse, the fuse is not directional. only amp matters.
BUT the fuse tap has polarity?
Tap does not have polarity
Thank you , well explained..
You are welcome!
So to sum it up, if you did it correctly you can test if you did it correctly by disconnecting one of the fuses the other one should stay on, if you connect it back and disconnect the other fuse the other one should stay on?
That's definitely a good way to verify.
5 stars...Very detailed. Thank you.
Thanks for watching 🙂
@@AnthonyJ350 One question. My fuse tap has a fuse in it 5 amp. How do I know what slot and fuse to use? Thank you.
Thanks for sharing information...
Thanks for watching!
I hooked up a light bar to my fuse box. I used an add a fuse tap and added it to the tailight fuse. The light bar never shuts off. What did I do wrong?
Did you install a switch and a relay with it?
Great video!!! I’m still little confused, how do I know how much amp I need for my starlights? It says it’s a 12v but nothing about amp
It's in the owner's manual. Or you power it up on the bench and use a fuse buddy or multimeter to measure current draw.
Excellent info.Thanx very much sir
You're very welcome!
I only learned about this a few days ago.
Hope the video helped!
Wow this is very helpful. I do have a question though.... i was trying to wired some very small led lights that arent for headlights or anything, its something custom. Very small. The controller module for the lights say 5v on it. It originally came with a usb but i cut the usb and used a fuse tap on it. Is there a way to limit the 12v power to 5v because i think it fried my module.
Either the original part or a voltage regulator.
Clever guy, well explained 👏 👍
Thank you kindly 🙂
If I utilize an unused(spare) fuse spot that has power and a fuse present already, do I need two fuses on the tap or can i just move the original fuse up to the second slot for power to the accessory? thanks!
You can just use the bottom fuse. It will work if you get the orientation correct.
Can you use a fuse tap to connect to a 15V source to power a 15V device if one of the slots in the fuse box, rated at 15A, is damaged?
How many amps is the device rated at?
I have put a 5.3 in a 95 mustang and putting in a standalone harness. The power wire needs to be hot with key/on. I was told that I could hook it to a 50amp fuse in the cars factory fuse block... Need help, what is your opinion on this. Just trying to get it running and reliable.
There is also a purple wire that is to be hooked up to the fuel pump also.
Thank you
I would integrate with the ignition harness, via soldering. You can use a poke and wrap technique and solder after with a fuse inline.
How much amperage does the line need? You might need to use a relay to deliver the power from the battery.
Great video. Helped a lot!
Thanks for watching!
6:47
First, based on your example, the red fuse (bottom slot) is the factory fuse and the orange fuse (upper slot) is aftermarket?
Second, you said the factory fuse recommended to have more amps than the aftermarket?
I almost understand your explanation 99% but just need 1% clarification. Thank you sir
The fuse that's inline with the aftermarket wire is the aftermarket fuse.
Awesome video. Thank you!
Question, so if the LED strip I'm going install requires 10A, you mean I should add the fuse tap to a 20A spare?
You mentioned to ensure anything you add should be less than the original.
Or, I'm going into an spare unused 10A, I can use the 10A fuse there?
I would only match the original. Also look at the device you're installing to see it's amperage requirements.
If it's a lot, I use the fuse tap to only control a relay and the relay sends power from the battery.
Thanks! Great video that helped a lot!
So glad it helped!
I assume if youve got no seat heater and you plug into the seat heater fuse location (with an appropriate fuse for the location & load), all's good?
Yes, you would treat it like a spare location
I have my underglows installed with a fuse tap with the rear window wiper motor fuse. One of the only 12V fuses I found in the engine bay
I would have those on a relay fused and control them with a switch.
@@AnthonyJ350 I need to learn to do that 😅 they’re off 95% of the time and I usually use my phone to turn them on and off
@@SalmanHussain I made this videonfor basics ua-cam.com/video/wzEQ6oc6fAc/v-deo.html
Very cool, I just used one on a set of driving lights with a slider controller. There seems to be some power getting by for a quick second. When I turn power to the vehicle on the lights flash for a split second, any thoughts?
Something probably back feeding. I would use a relay to power the lights (use battery power) and just use your fuse tap accessory to activate the relay. This way you isolate the lights from the circuit. What is the fuse powering in the vehicle originally?
@@AnthonyJ350 I tapped into the radio accessory inside the panel in the cabin. It provided power when the key is turned to position one. When I turn the key slow it usually does not flash the lights.
2:14 - "you have to be on the correct side so if the fuse pops you'll stop getting power but the fuse will still help work"
What did you mean here?
Rewatch the video where I shown how the fuse tap works.
Sir I got confused now.. Should I put the stock fuse in the bottom position of the fuse tap or the top position of the fuse tap? By bottom I mean the side connected to the pins of FUSE Tap Adapter . Would really appreciate if you could reply
Stock fuse goes in the location where there is no wire.
Thank you for making this video 🤝 Really helped out!!
Glad it helped you!
Can you use a fuse tap on a empty slot? My fuse box in the cab doesn’t have many options and the ones there are aren’t rated high enough for the tap fuse I was [20A] so need a [25A] or higher.
You can but I would use in conjunction with a relay hooked up to battery with a fuse if you are pulling bigger amperage like that.
Excellent thank you
Thanks for watching!