The World's Worst Belayer - Bad belaying techniques
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- In climbing and mountaineering, proper use of belay devices is the cornerstone of the belay chain. The belayer holds the life of his partner in his hands. This task requires as much attention as it does training. The climber's confidence in his belayer has a major effect on his performance. It is important to remember that a good climber should also be a good belayer.
To help you get there, we suggest you explore this concept over a few short films. Two videos will show you how to use a standardized series of movements for the appropriate use of Petzl belay devices such as the REVERSO (www.vimeo.com/8...) and the GRIGRI (www.vimeo.com/8....
But first, meet "the worst belayer in the world" in this video... Any climber may encounter such behavior. Though it may not always be as exaggerated.
And even though we can laugh at him, we can also ask ourselves:
- Am I not maybe just as bad sometimes?
- If it were me at the other end of the rope, would I be laughing as loud?
More info about belaying techniques on:
www.petzl.com/b...
Written & directed by Guillaume Broust
/ guillaumebroust
/ guillaume_broust
Soundtracks by :
Dziahn - "Smoking Purl" - / dziahn
eKoman - "Bee Killer" - www.myspace.com...
Zikali - "Une vie sous Terre" - www.zikali.com
RicciFatCut - "What can I tell you" - / linkrust
Lokom Prod - "Jdz2" - / lokom
Mandarine - "Ikon Jazz Rush"
All rights reserved - © Petzl 2013
I hate it when my hands burn from the rope after my climbing partner falls all the way to the ground.
SuperAhmed1337 is there gloves you can get?
@@bdogstone2221 It's a joke lmao
@@jackblack7573 yeah, he knew
@@timorouw5555 r/whoosh
@@auroravuitton90 ?? Why the woosh?
In summary:
1: Always hold the break end of the rope
2: Always hold the break end of the rope
3: Always hold the break end of the rope
4: When giving your partner slack, keep your hand on the break end of the rope
5: Always hold the break end of the rope
6: When lowering your partner, hold the break end of the rope
7: Tie a knot at the end of the rope
I get your point but Number one isn't about holding the break end of the rope
“Brake” end of the rope
Better yet, hold both ends of the rope about two feet from the grigri, and beat a Petzl engineer with it while playing 4:08 - 4:12 on repeat and screaming "DO BETTER!"
I love how this is the same guy as the world’s best belayer. He’s come a long way!
You figure after 2 or three falls she would stop climbing with this guy.
I've been belayed by a bad belayer before. You don't even need a fall. You just see his technique and think "Well, I'll just climb down"
right! the third one is her fault.
@@erickstamand Climb down by yourself climbing))
@@robpatton5913 I don't want to victim blame but I have to agree with Rob here
Yeah, no, it's definitely his fault. That's literally the point.
Wtf the guy at the end belaying and playing THE FLUTE?
He... wasn't really belaying...
send rhythm
The end with real climbers was the most frustrating part of this video.
Real climbers or just real people acting like climbers with bad habits? Of course, whilst bad belayers will exist, you can't tell if anyone in a vid is merely acting or not.
Every single one of these are exactly the same. You could boil this entire video down to "Hold the brake end of the rope.".
Repetition, the mother of learning! :-)
@nerfzinet exactly.
One more thing actually, with many belay devices you need to hold the braking end of the rope and hold it below the belay device.
And here we see why years later these accidents still continue to happen. Repetition is important.
That was intentional because PEOPLE STILL DON'T DO IT RIGHT--as the end of the video shows.
when the dummy falls i crack up everytime, too funny xDDD
Great video! His biggest mistake was to check out other female climbers while belaying Nina Caprez! Seriously, who would do that :-D
Amazing.
Petzl, setting the bar high, in a humerous way as per usual.
Setting the bar as low as it gets with climbing gear.
Nice bit at the end about tying a knot at the end of the rope and how to belay with a GRIGRI. They never mentioned this in our lead belay class in the gym.
i took a 25 ft fall back in July with my brother belaying me (I trained him with an ATC using BUS), the wall we were at required use of their Gri Gri set up and a Slip Slap Slide belay technique on our 2nd run on the way down his rope snagged under the . arm and i hit full force into 2 inches of plastic mulch ( no crash pads or soft landing surface) thankfully i still walked away but still did some permanent damange. the gym's first response after i decked was to yell at my brother from the desk, and accuse him of opening the brake too far. and then a couple minutes walked from their desk to see if i needed medical assistance. i still have to walk with a cane some days and have trouble laying on my back.
Lesson: trust the way you are most comfortable belaying, and do not trust wholly in autolockers
.......or let those belay how they want to and are most comfortable with provided the rope is tended to properly and the belay device in question is not manipulated improperly.
Six years later, but the A in ABD does not stand for "Auto" but "Assisted".
I remember I was doing high elements (An obstacle course about 3 storeys high) when I was about 15 years old, the rain just stopped and the course was wet and hard to balance. The belayer was a middle aged man with another man acting as an anchor. Though when I slipped and fell, the belayer didn't stop me from falling by pulling on the rope and when I was about a meter from the ground, I suddenly stopped and got wedgied really hard, turns out the anchor guy was smart and grabbed the rope in time but unfortunately he had major rope burns
The portion from 8:00 to 8:11 is the scariest ...
Omg... >
If I ever see a guy pull out a flute while belaying me, I'm anchoring, getting another person on my rope and as soon as I get down that guy gets decked in the face.
lol first note i hear im fucking him up
I love this video the falls are fucking hilarious hahahaha
This was so god damn funny, but at he same time dead serious.
There's this cool trick where if your climber is stalling and you want them start climbing again, just look away for a second.
holly damn. I'm never getting a belay from strangers
+Placeholder seeing the belayers at the end in real situations scared me
+gfunkonthecheesetree
None of them is using a tuber ...
people I have known for years I won't let belay me just don't fully trust them
@@cameronjacobcorns9034 gotta trust em with ur life cos thats what ur putting in their hands
So hilarious!!! Best part is when she first falls... she climbs again! LOL. This was so awesomely good.
A gri gri? I would have called it a chazwazza.
It drives me nuts to see how often this happens at my gym. We once had a dad take his hands off the rope to take a picture of his son hanging off the top. Up until that point, everything was textbook for 3 or so months.
I saw a dad doing the same thing outside with a tube belay device. The kid shouted at him: 'stop taking pictures of me, you should be belaying me!!!' Sometimes children are more sensible than adults.
The guy at the end playing flute! Smh
When choosing a belayer never use one who has previously been the cause of a lengthy stay in in a hospital.
how do i get a petzl skull and crossbones shirt?
8:09 - typical outdoor hipster spotted.
I remember when I was in a class and we were learning to belay, and the guy who was belaying me did THE MOST CHOPPY LOWERING JOB HAVE EVER SEEN! He dropped me about 7 feet, then stopped for like, 3 minutes, and continued until I was on the ground. Never again!
This is the kind of safety video I would remember the info from.
Yet very recent safety videos I have watched for real world scenarios, I have forgotten some of I bet because I was bored.
i have been by an accident caused by point 7. Since that, always make a knot at the end of the rope
let's be honest, the best grigri tutorial on the whole internet
notice: if you see this man in any gym or outdoor climbing area, do not under any circumstances let him belay anyone. Failure to follow this guideline may result in death or serious injury.
That video is just spot on, if you want to be a climber you gotta do the basics right first. I just loved the over dramatize storytelling to boot
Thanks for the tips! Except I never heard of belaying before this video, and I have only gone climbing once or twice.
Lol in their best belayer video the dude has all pretzel gear and then this guy comes in with black diamond stuff. Subtle Pretzel 🤣
I find it funny people are getting mad at this like it is obviously a joke. People will be more likely to remember something if they learned it in a fun way rather then a boring way
So basically.. just learn how to do it correctly right from the start and always do it like that. Voila. Practice makes perfect.
At 1:56:
"Hi Mom! I'm doing well, and you?"
"No, not radishes again, I ate them yesterday."
Climber: "Ahhh!"
"Ahhh!"
"Mom?"
Great production! Hilarious!
Is there a behind the scenes.
Tldr don't hold the climbers side of the rope hold the breaking part of the rope
How not to do movies are rare... Well done!
omg real MVP this lady for taking those whippers for the sake of the video!
lol the cross loading at 4:01
I love this video. Very well done, thanks guys!!
Like, fave, & sub'd. Thanks PetzlCrew for such an instructional and hilarious video!
this was soo funny and good!
how scary this must have to been to film😨
its called a gri gri?? thats interesting , a gri gri is a voodoo protection talisman
+Astrum G2V Well ... whoever it was he obviously wasn't as smart as the guy who named the SMART.
Skyfox94 .... touche.
8:10 what the fuck? HE IS PLAYING THE FLUTE :D
I still see people at my gym and local crags doing Act 1 and belaying with their brake hand up. They think their technique is faster or something. Sometimes I want to just come up to them when they're not belaying and tell them that what they're doing is unsafe.
+ecopsher To be fair to them, I was at first taught that method of belaying. But soon learned the actually safe method. They might've just been taught wrong. So maybe you should tell them what they're doing is unsafe. If someone hadn't told me I would've kept belaying that way.
+N3rdHD I think many of these people were used to belay with Munter Hitch, where holding the brake hand up is the proper way (it creates more friction actually).
@@panda-bm4de Both 1 and 2 are mostly fine with a munter hitch. But not with anything else.
I must be super tired because i think it is soooo funny!!!! i want to cry! great faces from the belayer!
I love the puppet :D
Nina Caprez you are so sturdy!
Behold: the worlds worst belayer!!!
...10 seconds later
Start by giving him the right equipment.
Someone should fall down wearing heavy steel capped boots & land on that idiots head; but first say to him, "your Mum wants you to remove your helmet".
informative AND entertaining! awesome
Hilarious vid. Like an SNL skit, if SNL skits were (still) funny. Also, did this guy strap a salami on before the shoot?
Damn he packing that schmeat.
There's a small 5th grader in my climbing class (We do top-rope) but even so, he just JUMPS around and tries to 'swing' with NO HANDS on the belay. Wonder why his best friend never wants to climb with him :/
TrueRatchet in mine its age 15+ which makes it 1000 times better, no screaming kids and basically only adults who are mature and want to learn
This are the kind of guy (they call themselves "mountaineers) that goes on Everest summit tours ?
those screams will haunt me tonight.
No Nina was harmed during this production.
😉😂🙌🏼
Old vid I know. But I still want that belayer's t-shirt. :)
That's one hell of an Ecrin Roc!
I want that t-shirt!
I can’t decide if the fall would hurt more or the rope burn
why does she keep going up???
She really should climb within her grade
DAT package tho'
This happened to me at a camp once, I fell 2 stories onto my back on wood. Ouch.
One simple answer. Make sure that they are belay certified
Thanks this is perfect for a newbie!
This video feels totally awkward too watch
i feel sorry for the person that had to untie the knot after filming this
6:28 this happened to a friend of the once luckily he survived and didn't get harmed but nobody trusts the guy who did that to him not anymore
This video is 10 years old but I still see belay horror stories in 2024! 😅😅😅😅
We'll have to make a new one then ;)
Great stuff!
i go there this afternoon awsome spot
I never thought anyone could be as bad at belaying as this shows
So I'm supposed to tie a knot on the climber side and let go?
What are you are you talking about? The guy's technique was perfect!
I think I've only had one bad mistake, and it wasn't that bad. I guessed the weight of the person I was belaying incorrectly and well I was belaying him on a speed wall in race, he was about 45 feet up and fell. I already had the brake line held down cause I mean that's the correct way to belay. Of course I went off the ground. I went close to 10 or 12 feet up into the air.
this chick must be crash proofed *lol*
Man if you belay like that you're gonna have some sore hands.
And some dead climbing partners..
So do I hold the break side of the rope or not? Vid was unclear
5:25 where are their helmet??
this gives me such anxiety
How did she survive all those falls
Funny and well done!!
agh this makes me never want to go climbing again... :/
well it's all timely I suppose, but if one needs to watch Petzl vids to correct belay technique, then perhaps they shouldn't be belaying...
That is one tough girl
loved this
*Act 4 is what almost got me into ground with a grigri and novice user.* Grigri is an automatic device. The only thing that a novice needs to know is that we release the grigri in case of a fall. Releasing both hands is the safest (!) because it is the simplest. Act 4 is too complicated for a novice and can lead to the same reflex, rendering the grigri useless. Better expose yourself to one extremely rare danger, than two, one of which is not so rare... In my case i had to turn around while falling, check my belayer and shouted "take both your hands of the grigri" to save myself. That was because a guy suggested the "correct" way of holding, like in Act 4, which was too complicated for the novice user. Best thing is to understand how things work and suggest what is better for the specific situation or person, not follow the rules. Because these rules do not account for human error...
You got seven words out and they had time to react WHILE you were falling?
Assisted, not automatic. But also this story sounds extremely made up.
@@maxpeterson8616 It is not written words. Verbal commands are much quicker, especially when you mean them... Again, instead of showing disbelief, i suggest understanding the experience shared here through a constructive approach. If you care about your, or other's safety, that is.
@@Aaron-xq6hv The story is completely accurate, and very recent. I have been climbing since a kid and it is my natural way of being, not a feat, so no need to brag about anything, especially on youtube. So instead of sharing disbelief, try to share that is more important (and safer) to understand what we do and the consequences, than blindly following vague rules.
AlWaYs HoLd ThE bReAk SiDe Of ThE rOpE
I think good belayer can feel what is his/her purpose, so that he/she doesn't do stupid things like the things shown in video.
Petzl: how often do u wanna fall?
Woman: Yes
Мне кажется это оскар!
Les français savent mdr
Quel accent xD
That's what we call a Betrayer.
bahaha that was jokes. The part about the gre gri is true though. I was dropped indoors once and stopped inches from the ground only because my belayer burned his palms and let go of everything.