Update: I've selected a winner for the giveaway! Thanks to all of you who left such kind comments below. I really wish I could give gear to everybody! But this seems to have gone great, so maybe Petzl will let me do more giveaways in the future!
Dear @NoahKane I really enjoy your UA-cam videos because they have this rare mix of authenticity and insight that makes watching them feel both personal and enlightening. Your genuine passion for the topics you cover shines through, and your thoughtful approach makes complex subjects accessible and engaging. Every video feels like a conversation with a friend who genuinely cares about sharing knowledge and making learning enjoyable. It’s refreshing to see such dedication and warmth in your content. Thank you. Cheers! @maxeagan
Anyone who is new to outdoor climbing, please don’t use this approach for stripping the anchor - you’ll be completely removing yourself from the rope unnecessarily. For a much better and safer approach, look at the video titled “How to lower off a sport climb with Emma Twyford” on the BMC TV UA-cam channel.
Every once in a while, because of the links are really skinny, you can't fit a bite of rope through the anchors. The method he shows is the only way to clean the anchor in that situation. To be fair, I have only used this method about 5 times in the last 7 years of me climbing. All I'm saying is that this method does have a time and place.
@@climbing200 even in that situation (which definitely wasn’t the case in this example!) you can still strip the anchor without ever detaching the rope from the fall-rated part of your harness - this is option 2 in the Emma Twyford video I mentioned above. Actually in Noah’s video he’s pretty much following the same approach as he did attach the rope to his belay loop, but my brain screamed when he said you could attach to the gear loop - doing that would remove any redundancy and you’d only be on a single sling. It’s a shame, because the rest of the video is excellent, but, as Noah himself said, this is arguably the most dangerous part of the process, so needs to be bulletproof.
@@climbing200 yes. Of course, you'd still take a hell of a ride and would probably need some new trousers, but better than a ground-fall from the anchor.
Most links or rappel rings have enough room to fit a bight through, allowing you to not untie your original climbing knot until you've tied a new one on a bight--requires a locking carabiner to attach the loop on a bight to your harness.
Also if the bight method is not an option it is better to pull the rope through on the climber's side for the bight backup instead of belayer's side shown in the video and use a locker on the belay loop so the climber stays on belay on the anchor the whole time. Bight method is definitely preferred where possible since the belayer can take up on the new system before the climber is forced to commit to it.
I’ve never seen someone clean an anchor quite like that. We usually pass a bight through the rings and make an fig8 on that bight then untie and clean from there. I also usually just clip my pas to 1 bolt because I don’t come off the rope at any point.
I've been taught both ways. The one shown here will work even if there is not enough room to stick through a bight, so it is more universally applicable. But in practice so far, I always had enough space to use the bight method. EDIT: I missed the part, where he suggested to clip into the gear loop. That is definitively NOT a good idea.
@@doxanthropos the only thing he was clipping to the gear loop was the bite to make sure he didn't drop the rope while he was on the PAS but after untied his main double-8 from his belay loop and before he fed through the chains and retied his main double-8 to his belay loop at which time he unclipped from the gear loop and undid that bite; he never suggested to clip into the gear loop in any climbing situation. Your way is preferable than this way, though, because you always maintain redundancy (even if there is a bit of slack in that rope so it would be like a surprise whip). Doing it his way, where I'm untie my climbing rope, I prefer to have some other tie-in, like a 2nd PAS/sling/QD, whatever.
feel like this way is more for multi pitch and he implemented it int osingle pitch bc its a good way??? i diasy chain to the main chain left or right and then just set up rappel or sometimes just lower off the chains lol i mean there is like a ton of ways lol
All good, but the cleaning shown here is not a proper way. After using PAS you should take out the slack above final quickdraws, then tie yourself to the rope (to the belay loop) and only then untie the figure 8 and pass the rope though the anchor points, in that way your system is redundant (1st point is PAS, second is your belayer keeping you on belay thanks to taking the slack from above last quick draws). You can also (after using PAS) pass the bite of rope through the anchor points, then attach it to the belay loop and only then untie figure 8 - both ways are valid, and both are very popular (although there are other ways of course).
19:30 - Never clip the the carabiner in the gear loops but in the center loop of your harnes! Attaching the rope to your harnes is not just to prevent the rope from falling down. It's also a backup in case something goes wrong at the top anchor. The gear-loops won't hold a fall in case, the center loop will!
Attaching the rope to your harness this way -to the gear loop- IS ONLY TO PREVENT THE ROPE FROM FALLING DOWN when you've followed by top rope through the lead climber's quick draws because you are not protected by any protection/clips below the anchor because a) they are not on the rope on your side of the anchor point; or b) they were already cleaned when the lead climber descended, by you on your way up, or by another climber who went between you and the lead climber. Your warning only applies to the lead climber when they clean the route before they are lowered.
@@tjiti so if there is no quickdraw at all, of course there is no quickdraw to serve as backup :D However, when toprope climbing it is good practice to keep at least the last quickdraw before the top as a backup (not only for later rebuilding of the toprope anchor, but as a general backup anchor).
When building quick draw anchor I prefer to clip to a middle link of the chain rather than the bolts under the chains. This avoids the situation you encountered while cleaning wherein you can’t easily remove the draws because you are weighting the rope. You might be tempted to clip the bolts over the chains, but this is a bad idea because it can put a bending load on the carabiners. You might also be tempted to clip the last link of the chains, but this will get you into trouble while cleaning because you need to put the rope through there. Have fun out there!
Personally I'm not a fan of that anchor building. I get that you are an awesome climber, but many people here in comments are beginners, who would get pumped - building that anchor and holding themselfs in the same time (=why not set a personal anchor first, relax and then build an anchor stress free?) +not sure about that (don't know how far to the left is the last bolt) but it seems to me, like your left leg has potential of getting behind the rope if you fell while building that anchor. Otherwise great vid👍
The cleaning of the anchor wasnt so good as the other parts. I never chain myself to my draws, I chain myself to one of the anchors. Then I remove one draw and connect it with the other and to my arness, now I have my own anchor, the quickdraw anchor with the rope. Second mistake you made in my opinion: the 8 knot comes AFTER you cross the rope through the rock anchor because many anchors have tight spaces and you cant even fit the knot at all, so first feed rope through the anchor and THEN do the knot. Then tie to your arness with a bolt with a lock gate and remove draws, request to take and release self anchor and you are good to go. All the rest, good guide.
18:34 I still think staying tied in and passing your slack through the top chains, then make a figure 8 bite to locking clip in to your belay loop, then untying the original knot, is a better system. You never come off the rope and you can still tie in afterwards for redundantness. I am always sketched out when I'm not on the rope system. This method looks great and I will use it, but I'm just adding my two cents.
I come from an alpine/mountaineering school background so I always wear a helmet (might not look cool though XD) due to falling debris or slamming head on the wall. Rock/Ice is always harder than your head and the last thing you want in remote area is getting injured/crippled/dead! When doing buddy/double check, also check the end knot on the rope just to be sure! When cleaning an anchor; there are two safer variants of your method with a bit more redundancy, I suggest you look them up and practice. Well presented overall :)
good video i just hope unexperienced people will NOT take this as a course and WONT go outside without proper formation. I don't know if its the cas but maybe put a disclaimer in the begining of the video you might get legal consequence for not doing it
Nowhere on this video does it say “course” Or that they would be ready to climb just from watching this. He doesn’t need a disclaimer because he’s not claiming anything.
@@AdamThygersonalmost all the tips would be very clearly mentioned in a course so it would be unnecessary. Some of the tips like how to belay properly or how to buddy-check get allot of focus on courses.
I loved this video and you covered most of the content really well. I have to say that I have some concerns about the cleaning the anchor part where you have the rope hanging from your harness but you are only on the anchors when you untied your knot. When doing this process please pull the slack through the draws and clip it to your belay loop so that if your PAS were to fail you fall onto the knot that is still through the draws. -OR- Rather than tying the knot in the bight of rope, push the bight through the quick links/rap-rings and tie the knot on the bight and attach to your harness. These two processes ensure that at all times you are on rope that is through the anchors before you begin untying the knot from your harness. At 19:30 when you begin untying the rope is no longer going through the anchors and in the INCREDIBLY UNLIKELY SCENARIO that your PAS fails you have no backup. PAS failure could be from nothing more than forgetting to lock your carabiner but the consequences of the setup you demonstrated would be a groundfall from the anchors.
I agree most of the video was good but the stuck quickdraws the chance of dropping the rope while threading the anchors and lack of redundancy on the PAS has me wonder how petzl sponsored such a dangerous "guide"
Please do not follow this guys advice on route cleaning. He took himself out of the system. Terrible advice with potentially fatal consequences should his draws fail. Watch Jez Browns route cleaning video for the correct technique.
Cool tips. For the anchor cleaning you can passe the loop of slack of the rope in the permanent anchor without untight the belay knot. Then you tight an over hand and clip it to your belay loop. You untight your original knot and finish to passe the rope to the anchor at the end. So at any time your belayer is in redundancy with your personal anchor and when the two knot are tight you have a second dynamic slack personal anchor for extra safety. With this method you have enough redundancy to clip your personal anchor directly to the bolt and stay on it until the descent. So you can work without annoying your belayer. 😁
When cleaning an anchor, i will always be atached to the rope, threading a bite of the rope through the anchor, making a figure 8 and using a carabiner to atach to the belay loop, only after I remove the original figure 8 i used to climb, that way I always have a backup and the risk of dropping the rope is 0
Amen to what you're saying at 8:41. I'm consistently baffled about how many climbers, even very experienced ones, still do this while I'm administering lead tests for them.
@terrinecold Nice video. I’d take a few more quickdraws. Regarding the helmet. I specially always were one if there is a roof (your example) as I have banged my head in a roof a few times and thanked my helmet
Your method of cleaning the anchor is completely wack, more complicated than necessary and not redundant. The rest a great tips and a well made video but I truly hope that anyone who doesn’t have an understanding of climbing systems doesn’t use this method.
honestly very valid and good content right up to the anchor cleaning portion - there are much better videos for that segment out there (if anyone sees this comment)
I really enjoyed this beginner tutorial, I am teaching a a nub and I’m going to share this video with her. Your anchor cleaning is very thorough and I agree sometimes it’s difficult to get the caribeaners off the anchor bolts. Well done!👍🏽
For cleaning the anchor I am a fan of taking the slack, making a figure 8 on a bight and attaching this to the harness with a locking carabiner. This way before removing your original knot you are already on belay, together with the previous security you placed.
Yesterday I was top belaying from the top anchor and I realized that I was belaying from my belay loop while attached with a PAS. I had the belay system attached to my PAS system, oof. Luckily I was able to switch over to the top anchor bolts without going off belay, but I ended up having it double binered.
Woww. A lot of interesting comments. . I do like this video. Yes im a beginner. Been practicing in back yard. On ground and sloped ground. This fall i have a fuy going to train me to start out recreational tree climbing. I figure is a start. Sounds fun. Back to this video. I like it. He covered over and explained WHY... And common mistakes. And thats why i like this video compared to others. Also a lot of my gear is Petzol. Got my gri gri recently. Been practicing with an figure 8 . Thank you
@cody.smirnoff I began climbing around 4 months ago and it’s the greatest decision I’ve ever made. Watching your videos helped me build the confidence I needed when it came to climbing and all of its complexities. You’re a cool ass dude and I hope you continue making videos because they are different from other channels because you have genuine passion for what you do and teach. I respect the level of effort and dedication you put into every video and make it seem like a conversation. Wish you the best.
We also use quickdraws to isolate a metal on metal side and a rope to metal side. After time the bolt may create a burr on the carabiner which could abrade the rope (which could be catastrophic). Along with what I mentioned, we also use it to allow some distance between the rope/route and the bolt, often the bolt won't be directly under foot but slightly to the side depending on the rock quality. The distance the dogbone (fabric between carabiners) adds allows the rope to not zig zag between bolts and follow a more straight path up to the anchors (less rope drag).
** Huge safety note, if you're just using quickdraws as anchors and not locking carabiners *DO NOT CLIMB ABOVE THE DRAWS*** Even with opposite and opposed, better practice to not (especially when it's fixed hooks with no chain) Also, PAS should go to fixed gear not personal gear
Also, the way he cleaned wasn't ideal but he did it for a situation where you can't fold the rope on itself and push it through the quick links, no other real way to do it in some situations (though those quick links in the video are plenty big to fold the rope and pass through). Guess it's better to show it when you can't pass it through than having a beginner go up and not know what to do and potentially drop the rope.
Dont have insta or live in the us but highly need climbing gear as im a student and my bank acc is negative 😂 still worth a try I guess, nice vid anyway!
a great way to additionally protect cleaning the anchor (without any extra real effort) is to leave the last draw in on the route and collect it once the cleaner gets lowered. obviously it's null if you have an anchor setup where you have to untie from your harness
@oreoclown tips are great been climbing for about a year and a half lead for about 6 months Recently tried a little trad just use three things of protection to try it and I’ve been looking at more videos of climbing outside, and yours have really helped, thanks for the tips.
Yo Noah, no offense, but shipping to europe really wouldn´t even be necessary, cause this stuff is made here. if petzl can send you some give-aways over the pond... why should it be an issue for them to ship it to a neighbouring country within EU? Anyway, would have liked some new quickdraws. Great video, as always
Your approach to filming and sharing your experiences in the sport have reinvigorated my interests in climbing. A goal for 2025 is to get out of my Miami gyms and climb my first outdoor routes. 🙌 Congratulations on the sponsorship and shoutout to the Petzl team for supporting creators in this growing community! @ryancraigmartin
To everyone criticizing Noah on his anchor cleaning technique, it isn't as bad as you seem to think it is. If you're at a popular crag, lowering can be a bad idea due to unnecessary wear on the rap rings so rappelling is quite possibly the better idea. And if you're rappelling, then you need to disconnect from the rope anyways. I find it better to learn one process that works in both scenarios and commit it to memory instead of learning multiple processes and possibly getting them mixed up. That being said, I do not like his anchor. Quads are so easy
Practice the bolt cleaning method. Thats all I can say. I remember my first lead outdoor climb. I had practiced it on the ground for a few times. I was in the route at the top and started to do the cleaning method he shows here. I came to the point where have to tie you back in. And for some reason I got confused with the rope. I had not enough slack to tie myself back in. Being in that situation the first time, I stressed a little and started the process all over again. And again I had not enough slack. I spent easily 15 minutes trying to tie my rope back into the harness. At some point I managed to tie me back in, but oh boy it was a hassle. As a beginner myself I can only say practice, practice, practice. Up in a route you can only help yourself. So you have to know what to do.
@steveilg Congrats on the Petzl sponsorship! I’m a 62 year old single dad (with over 275 FA’s!) … I got my 16 year old Daughter to lead 4 trad routes this summer (in between her other mountain sports)! She would LOVE to have those beautiful, new QuickDraws to build her own rack instead of her old daddy’s dirt bag rack! 😂💪🏾💯 Plzzzz! Appreciate your time in imparting the basics! You kids do have a bit different approach to things compared to when i began climbing using pitons, aiders, and hip or shoulder belays off of a bowline on a bight (no climbing harness)! i guess with the new school belay devices you kids don’t anchor your belayer any more? Also, when cleaning an anchor i use Slings to minimize the number of biner gates which are always susceptible to opening in the weirdness of cleaning anchors. I’m subscribed so look forward to your channel (i have a weekly Vlog, so kudos to your content!)! From high Colorado…🙏🏾
12:03 The more important part here is actually the orientation of the top of the quickdraw. The rope falling on the lower carabiner's gate, while easily demonstrated, would just be a freak accident; according to Edelrid there hasn't been a single recorded instance of that happening. But it also is a good habit to stay with, since very unlikely does not mean impossible. However, the orientation of the top carabiner's gate is important, especially when the route is a bit zigzaggy: The gate must face away from the direction of travel, i.e. end up facing downward when the rope is pulled. If it is facing upward, you can unclip it by the gate falling on the anchor, and unlike with backclipping, there have been recorded accidents of this.
@c_thurston I love your videos Noah! I made my own tree themed plastic climbing holds in honor of your strangler fig videos! They took me a few months to form cast and finish! You're work has really inspired me to get into climbing. I started training and bouldering indoors in hopes to be able to handle some outdoor routes! Climbing gear would be a huge motivator for me! Cheers!
That anchor cleaning was just 0/10 honestly. Horrible. Untieing compleatly and jsut clipping the rope to the gear loop is a no go. You can do unsafe shit all you want on your own time, but putting such dangerous advice in a "Beginners Mistakes" video is almost malicious
Please tell them not to use the approach shown here for stripping the anchor- it’s not safe. See my comment above for a much safer approach from BMC TV.
@caelamity My first outdoor trip was last month, and now I’m trying to cram as much as I can in the rest of this season. You are so thorough and there are some great takeaways in this video.
Uh.. you probably shouldn't throw in jokes related to safety with no explanation or context in a "beginner" video. I'm talking about clipping your quickdraw in to choss and calling it bomber.
One thing I would suggest for dealing with hard catches is fall a lot on auto belays, especially near the top. When you're near the top you get much more of a swing into the wall, and you can get used to not breaking your ankles. That catch you gave an example of that was "hard" wasn't really that hard, that lady just didn't use her legs to cushion her velocity into the wall. It can't be all up to the belayer all the time--the climber has to learn how to take a hard catch as well. There are some instances where you really need to give a hard catch.
As Edelrid says, there is not one known accident because somebody had back clipped the rope. But there is one really common mistake which may not lead to a theoretical but a real serious unclipping. This mistake is, when the top carabiner of the quick draw is not clipped in the opposite direction you are going to climb further.
If cleaning a top rope with this method, your only protection is that one sling. I hope new climbers don't follow this when there are much safer methods for cleaning.
@theangryalien Been climbing for a few months now and the positive attitude in your videos has made for watching a fantastic “rest day” activity for me. Have started climbing at some New England crags and even had the opportunity to boulder in Joshua Tree this week! Bummed I won’t be able to make it to the North Face climbing competition in NYC, but hope you and everyone else have a great time there!
I would love for you to make a video like this but for multi-pitch sport climbing! @SleepySparks *Edit.. Oops looks like you already made that video so thanks!!
When making UA-cam videos, it's really hard to include every single scenario, especially on a platform that is international as well. A lot have already commented on the anchor cleaning part, however there is never just one way to do things. There's always best practice, but not every crag has the same anchor and what works for one place will not work for all. For me, the most important thing was to keep learning. Don't just rely on one video. Ask questions, do research, understand the processes. Get the safe "standard" methods down first, for the crag you frequently climb at, then increase your knowledge about other methods. @NoahKane your videos within the last year have had more substance to them. Keep it up! @taiwanclimbing
@harrison.steen I love all your videos they inspire me to break out of the comfort of bouldering in the gym! Always glad to get a little extra stoke for some scary outdoor stuff :)
@john_brodzky Great info for anyone starting out in sport climbing! Thumbs up on managing slack while belaying! As mentioned in the comments, there are ways to make cleaning safer/easier, you've covered the basic fundamentals for cleaning.
@eduardomilek just bumped into your channel, loved it, subscribed. i live in Brazil but have relatives with us address, so I would love to take those quickdraws to some nice brazilian rock!
@ehonicc ! i love all of your content and your informational videos has helped me soo much. a six pack of quickdraws would help so much since im a struggling college kid with only a couple quickdraws :/ if you dont pick me just know that you make the best climbing content !!!
Terrible advice, from using the permanent chain links for top-roping or even cleaning, to not wearing a helmet. And, no! It does not just "sometimes happen" that your equipment gets jammed under the chain links. That's a newbie mistake, and is completely avoidable.
Also, the correct way to clean an anchor is to send half your rope through, then rap down. That way, you don't wear through the permalinks. If that ain't part of crag ethics, I don't know what is.
I would go to say, NEVER PLAY MUSIC IN THE NATURE. IT STRESSES THE ANIMALS. Climbers with music are like shipping vessels with whales, you drive them into a corner, then to extinction
Update: I've selected a winner for the giveaway! Thanks to all of you who left such kind comments below. I really wish I could give gear to everybody! But this seems to have gone great, so maybe Petzl will let me do more giveaways in the future!
Dear @NoahKane I really enjoy your UA-cam videos because they have this rare mix of authenticity and insight that makes watching them feel both personal and enlightening. Your genuine passion for the topics you cover shines through, and your thoughtful approach makes complex subjects accessible and engaging. Every video feels like a conversation with a friend who genuinely cares about sharing knowledge and making learning enjoyable. It’s refreshing to see such dedication and warmth in your content. Thank you. Cheers!
@maxeagan
@helianthus.nymph
Darn I missed it, when's the next giveaway?!
Anyone who is new to outdoor climbing, please don’t use this approach for stripping the anchor - you’ll be completely removing yourself from the rope unnecessarily. For a much better and safer approach, look at the video titled “How to lower off a sport climb with Emma Twyford” on the BMC TV UA-cam channel.
this is absolutley true! you can do this but it is much safer to always be redundant wenn doing these things! newbies careful!
Every once in a while, because of the links are really skinny, you can't fit a bite of rope through the anchors. The method he shows is the only way to clean the anchor in that situation.
To be fair, I have only used this method about 5 times in the last 7 years of me climbing. All I'm saying is that this method does have a time and place.
@@climbing200 even in that situation (which definitely wasn’t the case in this example!) you can still strip the anchor without ever detaching the rope from the fall-rated part of your harness - this is option 2 in the Emma Twyford video I mentioned above. Actually in Noah’s video he’s pretty much following the same approach as he did attach the rope to his belay loop, but my brain screamed when he said you could attach to the gear loop - doing that would remove any redundancy and you’d only be on a single sling.
It’s a shame, because the rest of the video is excellent, but, as Noah himself said, this is arguably the most dangerous part of the process, so needs to be bulletproof.
@shamharoth to clarify, is the system redundant because if something on the anchor failed, he would still have the quick draws below him?
@@climbing200 yes. Of course, you'd still take a hell of a ride and would probably need some new trousers, but better than a ground-fall from the anchor.
Most links or rappel rings have enough room to fit a bight through, allowing you to not untie your original climbing knot until you've tied a new one on a bight--requires a locking carabiner to attach the loop on a bight to your harness.
Also if the bight method is not an option it is better to pull the rope through on the climber's side for the bight backup instead of belayer's side shown in the video and use a locker on the belay loop so the climber stays on belay on the anchor the whole time. Bight method is definitely preferred where possible since the belayer can take up on the new system before the climber is forced to commit to it.
Bad Bad anchor cleaning method.. would be nice to see a follow up with proper anchor cleaning..
I’ve never seen someone clean an anchor quite like that. We usually pass a bight through the rings and make an fig8 on that bight then untie and clean from there.
I also usually just clip my pas to 1 bolt because I don’t come off the rope at any point.
I've been taught both ways. The one shown here will work even if there is not enough room to stick through a bight, so it is more universally applicable. But in practice so far, I always had enough space to use the bight method.
EDIT: I missed the part, where he suggested to clip into the gear loop. That is definitively NOT a good idea.
@@doxanthropos the only thing he was clipping to the gear loop was the bite to make sure he didn't drop the rope while he was on the PAS but after untied his main double-8 from his belay loop and before he fed through the chains and retied his main double-8 to his belay loop at which time he unclipped from the gear loop and undid that bite; he never suggested to clip into the gear loop in any climbing situation.
Your way is preferable than this way, though, because you always maintain redundancy (even if there is a bit of slack in that rope so it would be like a surprise whip). Doing it his way, where I'm untie my climbing rope, I prefer to have some other tie-in, like a 2nd PAS/sling/QD, whatever.
feel like this way is more for multi pitch and he implemented it int osingle pitch bc its a good way???
i diasy chain to the main chain left or right and then just set up rappel or sometimes just lower off the chains lol
i mean there is like a ton of ways lol
I never untie my self off belay till I am clipped into the other fig8 for redundancy.
Congratulations on the Petzl sponsor! Hugely deserved Noah
All good, but the cleaning shown here is not a proper way. After using PAS you should take out the slack above final quickdraws, then tie yourself to the rope (to the belay loop) and only then untie the figure 8 and pass the rope though the anchor points, in that way your system is redundant (1st point is PAS, second is your belayer keeping you on belay thanks to taking the slack from above last quick draws). You can also (after using PAS) pass the bite of rope through the anchor points, then attach it to the belay loop and only then untie figure 8 - both ways are valid, and both are very popular (although there are other ways of course).
19:30 - Never clip the the carabiner in the gear loops but in the center loop of your harnes! Attaching the rope to your harnes is not just to prevent the rope from falling down. It's also a backup in case something goes wrong at the top anchor. The gear-loops won't hold a fall in case, the center loop will!
Attaching the rope to your harness this way -to the gear loop- IS ONLY TO PREVENT THE ROPE FROM FALLING DOWN when you've followed by top rope through the lead climber's quick draws because you are not protected by any protection/clips below the anchor because a) they are not on the rope on your side of the anchor point; or b) they were already cleaned when the lead climber descended, by you on your way up, or by another climber who went between you and the lead climber.
Your warning only applies to the lead climber when they clean the route before they are lowered.
@@tjiti so if there is no quickdraw at all, of course there is no quickdraw to serve as backup :D However, when toprope climbing it is good practice to keep at least the last quickdraw before the top as a backup (not only for later rebuilding of the toprope anchor, but as a general backup anchor).
When building quick draw anchor I prefer to clip to a middle link of the chain rather than the bolts under the chains. This avoids the situation you encountered while cleaning wherein you can’t easily remove the draws because you are weighting the rope.
You might be tempted to clip the bolts over the chains, but this is a bad idea because it can put a bending load on the carabiners.
You might also be tempted to clip the last link of the chains, but this will get you into trouble while cleaning because you need to put the rope through there.
Have fun out there!
Personally I'm not a fan of that anchor building. I get that you are an awesome climber, but many people here in comments are beginners, who would get pumped - building that anchor and holding themselfs in the same time (=why not set a personal anchor first, relax and then build an anchor stress free?) +not sure about that (don't know how far to the left is the last bolt) but it seems to me, like your left leg has potential of getting behind the rope if you fell while building that anchor.
Otherwise great vid👍
The cleaning of the anchor wasnt so good as the other parts.
I never chain myself to my draws, I chain myself to one of the anchors. Then I remove one draw and connect it with the other and to my arness, now I have my own anchor, the quickdraw anchor with the rope.
Second mistake you made in my opinion: the 8 knot comes AFTER you cross the rope through the rock anchor because many anchors have tight spaces and you cant even fit the knot at all, so first feed rope through the anchor and THEN do the knot. Then tie to your arness with a bolt with a lock gate and remove draws, request to take and release self anchor and you are good to go.
All the rest, good guide.
18:34 I still think staying tied in and passing your slack through the top chains, then make a figure 8 bite to locking clip in to your belay loop, then untying the original knot, is a better system.
You never come off the rope and you can still tie in afterwards for redundantness.
I am always sketched out when I'm not on the rope system.
This method looks great and I will use it, but I'm just adding my two cents.
I come from an alpine/mountaineering school background so I always wear a helmet (might not look cool though XD) due to falling debris or slamming head on the wall. Rock/Ice is always harder than your head and the last thing you want in remote area is getting injured/crippled/dead! When doing buddy/double check, also check the end knot on the rope just to be sure! When cleaning an anchor; there are two safer variants of your method with a bit more redundancy, I suggest you look them up and practice. Well presented overall :)
good video i just hope unexperienced people will NOT take this as a course and WONT go outside without proper formation. I don't know if its the cas but maybe put a disclaimer in the begining of the video you might get legal consequence for not doing it
@@hikingleigh Likely would be fine without due to the title saying mistakes to avoid (like a tip) and not how to lead belay/set up a anchor.
Nowhere on this video does it say “course”
Or that they would be ready to climb just from watching this.
He doesn’t need a disclaimer because he’s not claiming anything.
@@AdamThygersonalmost all the tips would be very clearly mentioned in a course so it would be unnecessary. Some of the tips like how to belay properly or how to buddy-check get allot of focus on courses.
I loved this video and you covered most of the content really well. I have to say that I have some concerns about the cleaning the anchor part where you have the rope hanging from your harness but you are only on the anchors when you untied your knot.
When doing this process please pull the slack through the draws and clip it to your belay loop so that if your PAS were to fail you fall onto the knot that is still through the draws.
-OR-
Rather than tying the knot in the bight of rope, push the bight through the quick links/rap-rings and tie the knot on the bight and attach to your harness.
These two processes ensure that at all times you are on rope that is through the anchors before you begin untying the knot from your harness. At 19:30 when you begin untying the rope is no longer going through the anchors and in the INCREDIBLY UNLIKELY SCENARIO that your PAS fails you have no backup. PAS failure could be from nothing more than forgetting to lock your carabiner but the consequences of the setup you demonstrated would be a groundfall from the anchors.
I agree most of the video was good but the stuck quickdraws the chance of dropping the rope while threading the anchors and lack of redundancy on the PAS has me wonder how petzl sponsored such a dangerous "guide"
I’m a beginner and this video has helped me so much in my climbing journey. Thank you so much ❤
Please do not follow this guys advice on route cleaning. He took himself out of the system. Terrible advice with potentially fatal consequences should his draws fail.
Watch Jez Browns route cleaning video for the correct technique.
Cool tips.
For the anchor cleaning you can passe the loop of slack of the rope in the permanent anchor without untight the belay knot. Then you tight an over hand and clip it to your belay loop. You untight your original knot and finish to passe the rope to the anchor at the end. So at any time your belayer is in redundancy with your personal anchor and when the two knot are tight you have a second dynamic slack personal anchor for extra safety.
With this method you have enough redundancy to clip your personal anchor directly to the bolt and stay on it until the descent. So you can work without annoying your belayer. 😁
When cleaning an anchor, i will always be atached to the rope, threading a bite of the rope through the anchor, making a figure 8 and using a carabiner to atach to the belay loop, only after I remove the original figure 8 i used to climb, that way I always have a backup and the risk of dropping the rope is 0
Amen to what you're saying at 8:41. I'm consistently baffled about how many climbers, even very experienced ones, still do this while I'm administering lead tests for them.
Like Adam Ondra in the last video of Mammut with Jakob Schubert aha
Great tips! I recommend using a clove hitch knot to secure your rope from falling down. Very easy to do and you don't have to untangle it.
@terrinecold
Nice video. I’d take a few more quickdraws. Regarding the helmet. I specially always were one if there is a roof (your example) as I have banged my head in a roof a few times and thanked my helmet
Dude I love the little videos you spliced in, they illustrate your points quite perfectly.
Your method of cleaning the anchor is completely wack, more complicated than necessary and not redundant. The rest a great tips and a well made video but I truly hope that anyone who doesn’t have an understanding of climbing systems doesn’t use this method.
honestly very valid and good content right up to the anchor cleaning portion - there are much better videos for that segment out there (if anyone sees this comment)
I really enjoyed this beginner tutorial, I am teaching a a nub and I’m going to share this video with her. Your anchor cleaning is very thorough and I agree sometimes it’s difficult to get the caribeaners off the anchor bolts. Well done!👍🏽
Please dont , this cleaning method is horrendous. Youre gonna get someone killed.
For cleaning the anchor I am a fan of taking the slack, making a figure 8 on a bight and attaching this to the harness with a locking carabiner.
This way before removing your original knot you are already on belay, together with the previous security you placed.
Yesterday I was top belaying from the top anchor and I realized that I was belaying from my belay loop while attached with a PAS. I had the belay system attached to my PAS system, oof. Luckily I was able to switch over to the top anchor bolts without going off belay, but I ended up having it double binered.
Woww. A lot of interesting comments. .
I do like this video. Yes im a beginner. Been practicing in back yard. On ground and sloped ground.
This fall i have a fuy going to train me to start out recreational tree climbing.
I figure is a start. Sounds fun.
Back to this video. I like it. He covered over and explained WHY... And common mistakes. And thats why i like this video compared to others.
Also a lot of my gear is Petzol. Got my gri gri recently. Been practicing with an figure 8 . Thank you
@cody.smirnoff I began climbing around 4 months ago and it’s the greatest decision I’ve ever made. Watching your videos helped me build the confidence I needed when it came to climbing and all of its complexities. You’re a cool ass dude and I hope you continue making videos because they are different from other channels because you have genuine passion for what you do and teach. I respect the level of effort and dedication you put into every video and make it seem like a conversation. Wish you the best.
We also use quickdraws to isolate a metal on metal side and a rope to metal side. After time the bolt may create a burr on the carabiner which could abrade the rope (which could be catastrophic). Along with what I mentioned, we also use it to allow some distance between the rope/route and the bolt, often the bolt won't be directly under foot but slightly to the side depending on the rock quality. The distance the dogbone (fabric between carabiners) adds allows the rope to not zig zag between bolts and follow a more straight path up to the anchors (less rope drag).
** Huge safety note, if you're just using quickdraws as anchors and not locking carabiners *DO NOT CLIMB ABOVE THE DRAWS***
Even with opposite and opposed, better practice to not (especially when it's fixed hooks with no chain)
Also, PAS should go to fixed gear not personal gear
Also, the way he cleaned wasn't ideal but he did it for a situation where you can't fold the rope on itself and push it through the quick links, no other real way to do it in some situations (though those quick links in the video are plenty big to fold the rope and pass through). Guess it's better to show it when you can't pass it through than having a beginner go up and not know what to do and potentially drop the rope.
Dont have insta or live in the us but highly need climbing gear as im a student and my bank acc is negative 😂 still worth a try I guess, nice vid anyway!
11:15 made me laugh, yeah right , ok buddy. Everything else is spot on, I'm a follower now.
a great way to additionally protect cleaning the anchor (without any extra real effort) is to leave the last draw in on the route and collect it once the cleaner gets lowered. obviously it's null if you have an anchor setup where you have to untie from your harness
@oreoclown tips are great been climbing for about a year and a half lead for about 6 months
Recently tried a little trad just use three things of protection to try it and I’ve been looking at more videos of climbing outside, and yours have really helped, thanks for the tips.
@NoahKane1 I won?
Yo Noah, no offense, but shipping to europe really wouldn´t even be necessary, cause this stuff is made here. if petzl can send you some give-aways over the pond... why should it be an issue for them to ship it to a neighbouring country within EU? Anyway, would have liked some new quickdraws. Great video, as always
@lifeinzone4 I've been climbing for a couple years but this video was a nice spot check and confidence booster
Your approach to filming and sharing your experiences in the sport have reinvigorated my interests in climbing. A goal for 2025 is to get out of my Miami gyms and climb my first outdoor routes. 🙌 Congratulations on the sponsorship and shoutout to the Petzl team for supporting creators in this growing community!
@ryancraigmartin
To everyone criticizing Noah on his anchor cleaning technique, it isn't as bad as you seem to think it is. If you're at a popular crag, lowering can be a bad idea due to unnecessary wear on the rap rings so rappelling is quite possibly the better idea. And if you're rappelling, then you need to disconnect from the rope anyways. I find it better to learn one process that works in both scenarios and commit it to memory instead of learning multiple processes and possibly getting them mixed up.
That being said, I do not like his anchor. Quads are so easy
Good content. Good job explaining several aspects of I did like the break hand rant. Best part.
Practice the bolt cleaning method. Thats all I can say.
I remember my first lead outdoor climb. I had practiced it on the ground for a few times. I was in the route at the top and started to do the cleaning method he shows here.
I came to the point where have to tie you back in. And for some reason I got confused with the rope. I had not enough slack to tie myself back in. Being in that situation the first time, I stressed a little and started the process all over again. And again I had not enough slack. I spent easily 15 minutes trying to tie my rope back into the harness.
At some point I managed to tie me back in, but oh boy it was a hassle.
As a beginner myself I can only say practice, practice, practice.
Up in a route you can only help yourself. So you have to know what to do.
@steveilg
Congrats on the Petzl sponsorship!
I’m a 62 year old single dad (with over 275 FA’s!) … I got my 16 year old Daughter to lead 4 trad routes this summer (in between her other mountain sports)! She would LOVE to have those beautiful, new QuickDraws to build her own rack instead of her old daddy’s dirt bag rack! 😂💪🏾💯 Plzzzz!
Appreciate your time in imparting the basics! You kids do have a bit different approach to things compared to when i began climbing using pitons, aiders, and hip or shoulder belays off of a bowline on a bight (no climbing harness)! i guess with the new school belay devices you kids don’t anchor your belayer any more? Also, when cleaning an anchor i use Slings to minimize the number of biner gates which are always susceptible to opening in the weirdness of cleaning anchors. I’m subscribed so look forward to your channel (i have a weekly Vlog, so kudos to your content!)! From high Colorado…🙏🏾
no way you put this out when my first sport climbing day is tomorrow ❤❤
Please don’t use the approach shown here for stripping the anchor- it’s not safe. See my comment above for a much safer approach from BMC TV.
12:03 The more important part here is actually the orientation of the top of the quickdraw. The rope falling on the lower carabiner's gate, while easily demonstrated, would just be a freak accident; according to Edelrid there hasn't been a single recorded instance of that happening. But it also is a good habit to stay with, since very unlikely does not mean impossible.
However, the orientation of the top carabiner's gate is important, especially when the route is a bit zigzaggy: The gate must face away from the direction of travel, i.e. end up facing downward when the rope is pulled. If it is facing upward, you can unclip it by the gate falling on the anchor, and unlike with backclipping, there have been recorded accidents of this.
@c_thurston
I love your videos Noah! I made my own tree themed plastic climbing holds in honor of your strangler fig videos! They took me a few months to form cast and finish! You're work has really inspired me to get into climbing. I started training and bouldering indoors in hopes to be able to handle some outdoor routes! Climbing gear would be a huge motivator for me! Cheers!
That anchor cleaning was just 0/10 honestly. Horrible.
Untieing compleatly and jsut clipping the rope to the gear loop is a no go. You can do unsafe shit all you want on your own time, but putting such dangerous advice in a "Beginners Mistakes" video is almost malicious
😂 Firm but fair!
Always keeping a hand on the brake string while rock climbing is like always keeping your hands on your steering wheel when driving.
Nice Noah, love to see it. Keep it up brother
Great video. I sent this to a friend who has just started outdoor climbing. 👍🏻
Please tell them not to use the approach shown here for stripping the anchor- it’s not safe. See my comment above for a much safer approach from BMC TV.
@@shamharoth ha!! That is so weird, I did that straight after sending this vid. Luckily I’ll be taking him on his first outdoor climb.
@caelamity
My first outdoor trip was last month, and now I’m trying to cram as much as I can in the rest of this season. You are so thorough and there are some great takeaways in this video.
Uh.. you probably shouldn't throw in jokes related to safety with no explanation or context in a "beginner" video. I'm talking about clipping your quickdraw in to choss and calling it bomber.
It’s funny tho
One thing I would suggest for dealing with hard catches is fall a lot on auto belays, especially near the top. When you're near the top you get much more of a swing into the wall, and you can get used to not breaking your ankles. That catch you gave an example of that was "hard" wasn't really that hard, that lady just didn't use her legs to cushion her velocity into the wall. It can't be all up to the belayer all the time--the climber has to learn how to take a hard catch as well. There are some instances where you really need to give a hard catch.
As Edelrid says, there is not one known accident because somebody had back clipped the rope. But there is one really common mistake which may not lead to a theoretical but a real serious unclipping. This mistake is, when the top carabiner of the quick draw is not clipped in the opposite direction you are going to climb further.
Very good video 👍, thanks
video was perfect thx
Brilliant film 🎥
I don't have an insta, and I already have plenty of quickdraws, but here's a comment for you anyway.
@Climbwellcommunity been watching your videos for quite some time now. I really love your stuff. your creativity is super inspiring. keep em coming!
Flaking out the rope also gives you a chance to inspect it. Safety first!
@picassodegallo - love this! makes me feel way more calm heading up to rumney. thanks!
If cleaning a top rope with this method, your only protection is that one sling. I hope new climbers don't follow this when there are much safer methods for cleaning.
@theangryalien Been climbing for a few months now and the positive attitude in your videos has made for watching a fantastic “rest day” activity for me. Have started climbing at some New England crags and even had the opportunity to boulder in Joshua Tree this week! Bummed I won’t be able to make it to the North Face climbing competition in NYC, but hope you and everyone else have a great time there!
Holy shit, he didn't use fuck all intros and just got straight to the point 😂
I would love for you to make a video like this but for multi-pitch sport climbing!
@SleepySparks
*Edit.. Oops looks like you already made that video so thanks!!
Ps. When talking to a camera, bevore the first clip , clip in whit a PAS
When making UA-cam videos, it's really hard to include every single scenario, especially on a platform that is international as well. A lot have already commented on the anchor cleaning part, however there is never just one way to do things. There's always best practice, but not every crag has the same anchor and what works for one place will not work for all. For me, the most important thing was to keep learning. Don't just rely on one video. Ask questions, do research, understand the processes. Get the safe "standard" methods down first, for the crag you frequently climb at, then increase your knowledge about other methods. @NoahKane your videos within the last year have had more substance to them. Keep it up! @taiwanclimbing
Biggest mistake of all is treating it like a competition rather than enjoying it
super!
@colemusolf
Stellar video! Sport climbing is easy to mess up, especially outside of a gym. Thanks for the tips!
I want to join the giveaway but I don't have an instagram :(
ps this is exactly the video I needed this week. Just learned to lead yesterday.
@harrison.steen
I love all your videos they inspire me to break out of the comfort of bouldering in the gym! Always glad to get a little extra stoke for some scary outdoor stuff :)
What is the difference between the gri gri and Nyox
yooo where did that monster come from? 8:18
Hahaha yes, this! I have stopped with certain people because they refused to keep one hand on. 8:54
Hi please try deep water solo
You recommended bringing a chalk bag but don't think you should bring chalk?
I wish I had an unlimited number of draws, too!
Don’t forget brushes. Brush those holds after you’re done.
@cindchewy
Love the quality of your videos!
Love to see more of your cool projects and climbing!
@john_brodzky Great info for anyone starting out in sport climbing! Thumbs up on managing slack while belaying! As mentioned in the comments, there are ways to make cleaning safer/easier, you've covered the basic fundamentals for cleaning.
@miraslug Still relatively new to lead and definitely would have loved to learn with the Neox, great tips
@eduardomilek
just bumped into your channel, loved it, subscribed.
i live in Brazil but have relatives with us address, so I would love to take those quickdraws to some nice brazilian rock!
@NoahKane1 woah what 🤯
thats awesome
@izolentavar congratulations on the petzl sponsor you of all people deserve it most
where are you crggin at so green?!
@piddlewink ! love your content especially that tree video oh my lord that was a scary watch
8:42 Guys i think he doesn't like it when people don't keep their hands on the brake strand 💀
@ehonicc ! i love all of your content and your informational videos has helped me soo much. a six pack of quickdraws would help so much since im a struggling college kid with only a couple quickdraws :/ if you dont pick me just know that you make the best climbing content !!!
why not atttach a personal anchor system prior to setting up the anchor?
@bachoadamia Thanks for the tips in the video. Keep going on.
@wombat_dad thank you for the weekly climbing tips
NEVER take yourself out of the system when cleaning routes …as he does here
Terrible advice, from using the permanent chain links for top-roping or even cleaning, to not wearing a helmet. And, no! It does not just "sometimes happen" that your equipment gets jammed under the chain links. That's a newbie mistake, and is completely avoidable.
Also, the correct way to clean an anchor is to send half your rope through, then rap down. That way, you don't wear through the permalinks. If that ain't part of crag ethics, I don't know what is.
I don't know why i watched this video, been climbing for 12 years
I would go to say, NEVER PLAY MUSIC IN THE NATURE. IT STRESSES THE ANIMALS.
Climbers with music are like shipping vessels with whales, you drive them into a corner, then to extinction
Perfect tie in is an EBSB but that’s personal opinion :p
Yeah, thanks for crucial tip for all the Beginning climbers out there who were born knowing what EBSB means.
@@tr33m00nk I didn’t claim my comment was a tutorial, it could have been shown in the video. The video giving tips to which I was replying.
Don't have an IG, no chance for me.
@NSVLordslug
I only climb indoors but my trainer has been pushing for me to try joining the gym for one of the outings for some local rock climbing
“ I would’ve been tripped to the ER had I not been wearing a helmet!”
@ksteinhiser Great content! I've been meaning to replace my draws, I got them from my dad and they're over 7 years old 😬
@lecko50 you’re the perfect belayer, you don’t even need a neox to pay out the perfect amount of slack ❤️
@woodsy007
Been watching your videos ever since the BARN BUILD. I can only hope for one day to have a build like that.