Why Figure 8 knot is NOT hard to untie!
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2020
- Experiment proving that if you tie your Figure 8 correctly it's NOT HARD to untie!
The Figure 8 Knot is the most common knot for tying the rope into your harness. Although a lot of experienced climbers tend to use bowline for easier untieing after hard falls.
My goal was not to compare these two knots, but to show why I never transitioned into bowline myself.
I also noticed that if the ends of the rope is worned out it also makes it harder to untie, but would need more experiments to prove it ;)
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Ben - Спорт
I also noticed that if rope end is worned out it makes it harder to untie as well... But would need more experiments to prove that ;)
Aaaand let's see how many comments I get that bowline is better :D yea... it's easier to untie, but not the point of my video ;)
Oh, phuck. I was going to ask you about it...hahahaha. Great video!
This could be related with Freestyle's palm frictioning method which mentioned in comments. There still so much to discover lol 😂
Do you really want to test if a worned out is harder to untie? That’s proving the obvious 😎
@@AW-po7jr no, not going to... Because it doesn't result into actionable conclusion ;) It's obvious that you shouldn't climb on worned out out ends anyway... I have better content coming
@@HardIsEasy I would still love to see if this also applies to bowlin.
Easily one of the most useful climbing/gear videos I've ever seen! I'd been taught how to correctly tie the knot, but not to tighten it one strand at a time. Amazing.
2020, valluable knowledge about figure 8 node still had to be discovered xD
Suuure :D have more secrets ?
Crazy...
Thank you! Most edifying!
I have never paid attention to whether the load line is on the top or bottom and, consequently, have always been baffled by why *some* of my figure-8s are easy to untie after a load and others are an incredible pain.
Because you didn't know the right way to do it.
After 17 years of climbing this is surprising, but most appreciated information. It makes perfectly sense, and thank you for showing it. Hardest part when watching this however was, that we had to wait almost to the end before the curtain was lifted and the secret was unveiled. So glad I learned this now.
Tip: If you do use a Yosemite backup and it's stuck after some hard falls, clip in a biner to the backup loop as shown BUT don't pull, twist it like you're wringing out a wet towel. Keep twisting and you'll get way more leverage to pull out the tail, then you can untie the rest as normal.
Or, y'know, just ditch the backup and do what he says in the video :)
I have started to pay more attention to how I've been tying the figure 8 and by keeping the load loop inside the end loop it certainly makes a huge difference. Thank you so much.
Wow cool, thanks for letting know it works ;)
I've realized that I ALWAYS used the variant of figure 8 knot that hard to untie ;( I need the next video ASAP!
This explains so much about my experience with fig-8s! I had so much trouble with hard-to-untie knots that I switched to a bowline. It also explains why other people I know had no problem untying their knots. Now I will experiment again with well-tied fig-8s 😊
Ohh boy, I just relearned how to do a figure of 8, after 25 years doing it!
Haha well if it was working for you maybe no need to change now? :))))
@@HardIsEasy definitely will pay attention to this. The next 25 years will answer this. Thank you for pointing this out. Found you today and I'm devouring your videos, and clicking the ads once in a while; You deserve it!
@@NunoLeitaoTheEpiq hahaaa thank you so much!!! Don't click ads, just click join button instead ;)
I hope one day I can make my vids ad free
@@NunoLeitaoTheEpiq and yea let me know how it was after 25 years... Gonna be nice long term study ;)
You just proved me right in a friendly argument I had last year about better ways of tieing a figure 8. I noticed the positioning of the load on top and middle differences a few years back. Great video.
13:25 the secret inner circle knowledge of the figure of 8 knot 😊
Brilliant video! The most common is the people who do an overlap when tie the not... Usually it is for lack of info... Good job and great effort you did... Videos like this is what the community needs! 😄😄
Thanks buddy!
Was intrigued on how you could make a 20 min video on one knot........now i know. Well done , learned alot. Thanks.
Haha oups :)))
Loved the video. I think being a beginner, I fell into the trap of thinking "if I tie loosely, the knot will remain loosely and will be easier to untie" which apparently was blatantly wrong. :o Thank you for the testing, this was really interesting!
Super glad it was helpful as much as it was interesting for me to do it ;)
@@HardIsEasy I feel like when I see the video, it's seems so obvious that the results are as shown (tight being easier to untie and the comparison at the end as well) but I still didn't really make the connection myself beforehand. So thank you for the light bulb moment :)
In my experience there is a sweet spot in the middle. If you pull the knot really really tight it gets harder to untie (especially if you didn’t take a fall).
Makes sense to tighten before loading, because at least you get to control the final shape of the knot before the load tries to change it.
Im just starting with climbing and I feel yout videos save me years of experience to learn some deep concepts, amazing content, keep uploading strict and scientific videos :D
When you discover things you didn't know you didn't know. Thought I knew how to tie a figure of 8. I think the difficulty comes in tying it in the follow through method as there's lots of ways to follow it wrong to setup for the fusing scenario. Interesting that I must be kind of inconsistent because sometimes I do it write and I have no problem, then sometimes I do it wrong and really have to struggle. Thanks for bring out the nuances of tying a figure of 8. Very interesting.
Yea find a way that works and stick to it ;)
I'll share mine in a future video ;)
Oh, and that's a life fact that you don't know what you don't know ;)
I just joined the channel because you really put effort on it ,and you finish with conclusions which make this sport better. Thanks for those great videos
Thank you sooo much Abdullah!
This is brilliant! Thank you for putting in all the hard work, highly appreciated. Cheers from Germany :-)
Great analysis! Been using this knot for years and still so much to learn about it.
Thanks for these experiments! I switched to bowlines a long time ago, because I always had trouble opening the figure 8 after a fall - especially with the sticky ropes in our gym. I'll try it next time.
Omg. As a highliner this just changed my life. So many whips and can still untie my 8 easily now. Thanks!!!!
Woohooo, it's amazing to get real life confirmation that it works for other as well!
I have been meaning to test this for a while but haven't had the time. Thank you for making this video!!
Thanks for taking the time and making the effort to do all this testing and making it into a video. Really helpful and awesome stuff!
Very welcome!
Thanks for that Video. I didn't realise, i usually tie up my Fig.8 with the loaded strand in the middle... That's why i never had any issues, untying my knot. Thanks for your work.
Appreciate it ;)
Thanks for these experiments, they spared me a lot of headache (and also protect my brand new rope). I love the style of your videos!
Thanks a lot ;) I'm sure you gonna love new series that I'm working on atm ;)
What an in-depth about figure 8. Well done and lots of great info!
Thank you for all that effort! Brilliantly presented. After more than 50 years of tying the load rope on the top because I was told it had a greater radius I’ve now to relearn to tie it correctly!!
Thanks Chris... I'm still trying to find out if there is any real benefit of load line on top...
After several years of climbing, I've just started to climb in the lead (and fall). Perfect timing to discover this video. So useful !
Thank you so much for all the work you do for the community. I come from a tree climber background but still find all of your content extremely relevant.
This is brilliant, thanks! I never realised the difference between load line routing and how it could make a difference. Would be good to see if there's actually any difference in the breaking load of both, not that it would make any real world difference, clearly the load line in the middle is better for untying.
I pride myself in my f8s but I had not realised the difference between loadline top or center. Thank you for your amazing content.
I like these tests, I like the scientific approach!
Educational and entertaining, as always
Love it!
Great experiment. Shows that there is depth to even simple systems. Thanks.
Even though I don’t use the figure 8 anymore, I still like how much effort you put into this video. I subbed and I am looking forward to watch all of your quality content
Apreciate it ;)
What knot do you use then double bowline? End bound single bowline??
SREALDAN Double bowline, have fun!
Thanks a lot! So elegant way to explain what I couldn't understand!
Man, this is a gold tip! Thanks for that!
8 years of climbing and this is the first time I hear about positioning of the load strand inside the knot. You Sir, have just blown my mind 👏👏👏
Love you bro. Awesome channel, I really appreciate your such hard work on such quality videos, which can make us easily understand.
Great video, thanks for all the work you put into it!
Thank you I have been teaching this but not knowing why it worked. Well done on a fantastic video!!!!!
This is so worth a subscribtion. So much work put into something thats so useful for so many people.
Hey thank you sooo much!
Excellent video, again. There is always room for something new, even things as 'basic' as knot. Thank you
Thanks a lot Kuluar!
Those details make a climber pro! thanks for sharing
Excellent info, thank you for putting this much effort and quality into sharing this information! New subscriber!
Great video! Thanks for all your hard work!
Thank you for all the time you take making videos and testing gear
Wow! Big difference! Thank you!
Thanks 👍
Nice Work, amazing how a very common thing can reveal some new stuff ! Thank you for your work !
Haha thanks as well ;)
Thanks for the hard work !
Awesome video! I always have problems undoing my Figure 8, especially after a couple hard falls. Tried reversing my follow through as well as snugging up the 4 rope ends out of the knot during the last few climbing sessions since watching this video. It was so easy to untie!
Amazing I love people coming back to say that it actually works for them as well! Thanks!
Good job! Thanks for taking the time (and the ropes) to do the experiment. Language is so accessible (not a science nerd conversation)....sweet!
Thank you as well ;)
Thanks for this very instructive video.
Great experiments and nice conclusion . Thanks
TL;DW:
Fast forward to this to save yourself 17 minutes:
ua-cam.com/video/QAr-uHd8h8o/v-deo.html
1. Make sure your knot is tight to begin with
2. Make sure your knot has no overlaps
3. Make sure that your load line goes in the middle of the knot
Really good video, you did an awesome job and explained it really well!
Such a dedication... awesome.
After 40 years of climbing I'm still learning , thanks buddy
Haha, thank you as well ;)
Thank you Hard Is Easy!! Love your videos. This Climbing Human will definitely make sure to have dress my knot, have load line thru the middle of knot, and not have any crossed strands.
Thanks ;) let me know if you see any actual difference
Thanks for putting in all the work, I definitely learned a few things
Haha me too ;) and thank you as well ;)
This is such an interesting video!! Thank you for doing all these tests :)
Thank you!
Great, great work, my friend. Respect
Very informative, thank you!
Absolutely great made and entertaining. I was not sure if I could learn something when I started the video and than boom - excellent and thank you for sharing :)
Boom ;) glad I didn't wasted your time ;)
thanks so much for this practical study! your curiosity to understand helps :)
Thanks Peter!
Great job, nicely done, its often about tiny differences, not only in climbing.
Thanks Marcus!
Amazing. Thank you for doing this. I never thought about the load-line going on top or in the middle before.
Brilliant! (You may not be the first person to figure this out, but I'll give you credit because I've never seen it anywhere else.) Thanks for adding to the collective knowledge!
Haha I don't need credits :) I'm just happy to share my findings that's all ;) thanks ;)
So useful thank you, sir!
Ive only been climbing for 7 months. Ive never had an issue untying my double figure 8's. But ill thank the gym staff for correctly teaching me how to tie the double figure 8
The crossed inner strands on a figure 8... That drives my OCD crazy to even see. But i was never worried about tightening them down tight. Now I think I will.
Really useful video, thanks
Thank you for this Video!!
This is sick. I've been wanting this knowledge for years! This is the definitive guide to tying figure 8s
Haha for years you had trouble with your knots? :)))
@@HardIsEasy yes! I even had to cut the knot off my harness once after a long session
@@marklide3492 haha great, try my tips and let me know if it actually makes a difference, I'm super interested
Muy buena explicación, aunque un poco larga.!!!...gracias.!
I have often wondered - now I know - THANKS!
Great video, good job!
Thank you
I agree you put out great videos, and I'm learning a ton. But what I really love about your videos is your sense of humor. Every video I'm laughing my ass off at something. Great content man! 👌
smart ass connection :D
@@HardIsEasy 🤣
Me too, on all counts.
Wow!!! I can't believe I never noticed this.... Genius!
GENIAL!!!! Gracias, por tus videos Saludos desde Colombia.
Great info!!!
The more you know! Relearning this now :) Thank You!!!
One of the most interesting didactic climbing video ever! Thank you so much. I would like to see the difference in rope breaking with different knot variations...
ua-cam.com/video/Re5ZZjc41kQ/v-deo.html
Enjoy :D
Amazing video thank you very much I love all the work that you put into it
Ah it's nice to satisfy so many curious minds :)
This is the greatest 20 mins I have spent on UA-cam
Great video as always! Cheers!
Great info, explanation and testing facility all brought in a serious but funny way. Now I wonder about the actual break strength of both variations. But your videos show you have a very inquisitive mind.
I cannot wait seeing the second part, but incidentally I've discovered I use to do the figure of eight with the long line in the middle!
Trying to figure out some extras for the 2nd part ;) and big thanks for the support ;)
Although I am not a rock climber, I found this episode very interesting. Expanding my knowledge is a passion of mine. This information will be shared with my wife's grandson who is a firefighter. Hopefully his training has them using the correct way of tying the figure 8 knot. Thank you for sharing.
I'm unfamiliar but unsure if big falls on the knot are a large enough concern in that line of work, and remember if it ties too hard you can always cut the rope. Otherwise both ways are correct safety wise. It still doesn't hurt to tie in this way. I think always tying the same way might be a good idea, if you are having an especially bad day it might help to spot something's not right.
Brilliant. This video should be sent to all climbing instructors ASAP. :-)
Haha, yea I'm curious why a lot of them say you need load strand on top... But I'm gonna check on this more ;)
Dude, this is awesome. Now I can explain to my friend why his neatly dressed figure eight still binds up!
Great content! Thanks man
Thanks for the great video! I generally tie clean figure 8s without any twists and tighten them and mostly don't have trouble untying them, but I'll need to check where the load line ends up. I had never paid attention to that. I'll comment on the Yosemite follow through. I use that and do find that it makes untying easier. I leave a somewhat bigger loop before the follow through, giving more rope to grab when pulling it out. Also, it would make a big difference if the knot is still tied to your harness. This gives something to pull against so you are not just pulling on it with your two hands. You would be able to generate much more force. That being said, I'll have to compare the follow through with a knot with the load line in the middle. Thanks!
Awesome! Thanks!
As a climbing gym that uses indirect tying-in (with a safebiner), we actually use the harder-to-untie-version at 16:14 :), this is to prevent two things:
1. climbers untieing the knots and putting bad ones back in
2. the visually good looking one gets an extra loop after a while (because the top of the knot is not being loaded, it's being loaded half-way the top becomes looser), which climbers could unintentionally tie into, which would be disastrous.
Super interesting video!
What is an indirect tying in? Does it have something to do with top roping?
@@HardIsEasy Yes this is only for toproping. The figure eight is already made. The climber ties himself into the loop with a safebiner such as a belaymaster or Smart HMS (other biners are not allowed due to possible cross-loading)
@@devonrd in my gym for the top roping we have two semi-auto locking carabiners always fixed into figure 8 or bowline loop so nobody gets to untie the knot or unclip the carabiners off the rope which is fairly safe
In my gym they put heat shrink tube around the knots to prevent people from untying them.
@@Mike-oz4cv heat is applied to the knot? 😲
its eazy 1st top strand and the bottom 3rd strand pull away👍👍good video
Thanks for this great video. I just did a little modification to my usual tie-in procedure to get a perfect knot - before I always (!) automatically added a crossing strands to it.
Glad it was helpful!
Good job 👏
So cool, thanks for your research!
My pleasure!