1977 International Scout II - Carburetor Repair
Вставка
- Опубліковано 10 чер 2020
- The Original Carb Is a Holley 2210 2 Barrel, The Carb We Are Repairing On This 77 International Is A 2100/ 2150 Motorcraft 2 Barrel, As You Can See It Will Work If Your Having Problems With Your Holley, Thanks For Watching
- Навчання та стиль
Not just a great video but a fun one. Thanks brother
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks so much for the tuning of float. I noticed fuel on bottom of barells inside carb. They're wet, so leads me to believe that my float is fuel logged
Hey thanks for the mention! Awesome to see you sharing your knowledge with the world! Keep it up 👍🏼
I have a 304 installed with a 2300 Holly on my 72 scout 2. I'm curious about your opinion regarding what carb to put on it to make it hum. I'm guessing it's a 350 cfm. How much cfm can this motor handle? Thanks in advance...
A stock carb is the way to go
I've got a Holley 2 barells and it says 1800 on round plate top of carb. Not sure if that is carb number or not. The side where it says Holley it has 4 bolts that can come out. It's where the fuel line is coming in at. Is that where I take off the side to replace my float? It's a 1966 International Travelall 345 V8 I believe it's float problem because I can't rev it up. It's basically flooding itself out.
Before I pull the bowl that’s the four bolts you mentioned try tapping on the bowl possible stuck float after that try squeezing the rubber line off either at carb or inlet fuel pump for about 20 seconds don’t let it die and release may have something stuck in the needle and seat that will flush it out. If you pull the bowl be sure to check your float like in the video and replace the power valve
@@TomAutoTV ok thanks. I'll keep you updated. Much appreciated for the reply. I'll check the fuel window inlet as well. Squeezing the line will let it run out of fuel then releasing it will throw fuel back in at 6 to 8lbs and possibly flush? Makes sense to me. Hope it works 😄
What is the power valve? I took carb off but had attachments still connected. I emptied gas out of it onto a rag. I disconnected gas inlet too. I put carb back on manifold and it started up enough for me to move it into a different parking spot, then it flooded itself out again. When it's running, it runs good, but flooded again. Do I have to tap and pull the carb apart after I unbolt the 4 bolts where float side is? Another question is I don't have rich/ lean screws on side of carb, I can see 2 screws with springs on opposite side of float bowl. Do you know the adjustments for those screws? 1 turn out? 1 1/2 turns out? 2 turns out? For some sort of starting point? I think I also have to adjust fuel float arm where it is almost touching bottom bolt. Mine is firm against it leading me to believe that I also need to adjust it until arm almost touches bottom of bolt. What are your thoughts? Thanks 👍
@@JH-jh2oe The Power Valve Is Located In The Metering Block Towards Carb Body Its About 1/2 Thick And Has The Fuel/Air Mixture Screws In It Be care Full Removing Can Get Stuck From Transfer Tube. On The Passenger Side Of Carb Should Be A Sight Plug With A Slotted Head. Remove Plug And Check For Fuel, If Fuel Is Running Out Try Adjusting Float, Should Have An External Adjustment On Top, You Will See A Hex Nut And Slotted Screw Loosen Screw, Turn It Clockwise To Lower Fuel Level To Bottom Of Hole. Be Sure To Use New Gaskets. Keep Me Posted,