One trick for keeping dust down, if applicable. Dampen the area your're painting in. I've been painting in a old greenhouse and I just run the water hose over the floor and walls lightly. It works wonders!
I tried hosing down the walls and ceiling in my living room but the water dripped into my clear coat job and the guy downstairs said he had water dripping on his forehead while he was sleeping. There was no dust though it actually works.
Make sure that you wet sand the product also. Your item should cure completely for about 6 days before clear coating. A good rule is that if you can still smell the paint, it has not cured.
@@BradAngove sorry, I just fixed my comment but it was supposed to say you continued to paint WITHOUT one, that's why it was so funny!! Awesome video though, made me laugh and was super helpful, never would have thought about using 2 cans at once!!! Thank you!
I always wondered why he didn’t wear one, he could always do a time lapse of the spraying, the dub any comments he wants to add later. Don’t underestimate how much damage repeat exposure can do.
I sprayed 3 coats each on two sets of headlights with a small can of 2K with the hardner and they turned out perfect. Used up the whole can. I gave them 15 minutes flash time between coats.
Another good tip is to make sure that the service you're painting and your clear coat and or paint is warmed up adequately. All liquids become less viscous when warmed. When it's less viscous it will flow out and level much better. Careful though of vertical surfaces, with less viscosity also comes more chance for runs. For those of you that don't know viscosity is defined as a liquids resistance to flow. As in water is less viscous than honey.
The ambient temperature is very important, if it's 90F outside i.e. you don't need to be warming anything up. Also good to read your instructions for the recommended temperatures, depending on the temperature different hardeners can be needed. It's crazy how many variables there are with paint, i.e. if it was 20 degrees cooler you might have a different experience, can be the difference between runs etc. Painting is all about experience, but also using good paint. Use quality products and get quality results. Keep in mind not everyone is going to be able to spray paint as well as Brad, and also these spray cans work much better for small things like guitars. Not to discourage the use though.
You sir, are an invaluable part of this video business website. I have been building guitar distortions (pedals) for years and always messed up the clear coating. Not anymore though! From the bottom of my hear thank you so much! You and your channel is pure quality.
I think you are the best teacher out there Brad. You video's kick ass and are a great deal of help. Thx for taking the time out to do tutorials, AWESOME.
Unbelievable!!! 🤩🤩😁 Thanks so much. Had been spraying a boot spoiler with 1 can of lacquer and the results were not what I wanted so I hit it lightly with 400 grit, cleaned it down and sprayed with 2 cans and what a difference. Thanks for sharing and stay safe
More coats "is" better. 😉 You had it right the first time. More coats are one as a whole, being compared to less coats as a whole (one thing compared to another thing). It does sound awkward I agree, but it's one of those tricky parts of our language. I thought you'd appreciate the clarification since you stopped to think about it. Not being a snarky troll, I just find we can be useful to each other in a productive way. Great tutorial! Thanks! 🙏
Great! Thanks so much! I've watched so many videos but found yours to be the most informative so I truly appreciate you taking the time to get back to me.
@Jeff Webre You may want to consider using a can of catalyzed polyurethane clear coat. It is more expensive, and you will need to wear a respirator, but it provides a stronger finish. You would only need one can, as it has a nice fan cap on it. Spraymax makes one. It's available through the coastairbrush website.
I was a pro painter for 17 years of spraying lacquer. I have retired from that (disability) and I sold my spray rigs before moving to a new state. A buddy was building stomp boxes and paying for them to be pre finished and it was junk spray jobs. So I Started using Lacquer in a can (real nitro). But I can not do a tac coat. if I tried that with a Graco 990 airless sprayer it would orange peel. I shoot on a normal coat of sealer. Sand, then a second coat, sand. Then coats of clear. Why do none of you guys ever use sanding sealer? I went from 3,000 airless spray rigs to Stew Mac Lacquer cans on metal instead of wood. I am already better than the guys selling the pedal boxes. But I still consider myself new to metal and cans.| Why no sanding sealer? Why tac coats? Is lacquer not best for metal? I see lots of enamel. But I never see oil based lacquer sanding sealer and oil based sating or gloss to top coat it.
We don't use sanding sealer on metal because there's no need to seal it. Sealer is important for wood of course to prevent the paint from soaking into the pores, but on metal that's not an issue. Instead we deal with adhesion issues. Essentially, instead of using sanding sealer on metal we use primer. The tack coat is just to keep the paint from running on the wetter coats because enamels and polyurethanes tend to go on in slightly heavier coats than lacquer. They used to use lacquer on cars/metal all the time ( a very long time ago), but now there are finishes that are faster and more durable, so lacquer isn't as popular a choice anymore.
In addition, as Brad noted, quality also comes with practice. I've had to redo coats (including waiting for initial curing - approx 4 - 7 days depending on product, re-cleaning, re-sanding, etc.) many times. I've also had small jobs become big messes either due to perfectionism or rushing. Take your time, be patient, and let the paint do what it must to cure. I also agree with the 5 - 10 minute waiting period between coats, but, as noted in other comments, account for where you're painting - airflow, ambient dust, temperatures, humidity. Sometimes experience is what you get when you least want it, but patience and being willing to be "bad" before becoming proficient are keys to succeeding.
Two cans are you kidding?Some people have trouble spraying with one.Here is my trick.Put the spray can on a paint shaker.This will give you better atomization.Use a heat gun to warm the object being painted.Sure way to get a run is painting something cold.Finally, put your spray can in a bucket of hot water for ten minutes.I have been painting for 40 years and this always works for me.I recommend to use the 2k clear for best results.
It’s a joke. But, you really shouldn’t cross the streams. You can overlap them, but if you try to actually cross them they will interfere with each other’s atomization.
@@BradAngove I sprayed some paint on my car but it has orange peel (i haven’t clear coated yet). Should i clearcoat then sand it down or sand it down the clearcoat?
So, I tried the "Double Can" technique on laying down clear for a bumper I am fixing. I did 1 pass across the top of the bumper (tack coat), using Rustoleum Clear Enamel, and INSTANTLY got a curtain of clear runs. I will sand it down and give it another shot using just 1 can and see what happens.
Brad Angove thanks! I actually tried it again tonight, and discovered that I was spraying too close to the bumper. I kept the cans slightly farther back from the bumper. It seemed odd, but it worked great!
I'm glad to hear it. The speed at which you move the can, and the distance that you hold it from the piece, are the two main elements that control how heavy your coat it. I cover it in my demo video on how to get an even coat of paint with spray cans.
I like the way you look at things . Puts a whole new perspective on a goal we're all trying to achieve . Who hasn't sprayed it again a second time because we weren't happy with our first attempt .
Well done. This is the first time i've actually heard someone explain this done this way aside from myself. I use basically the same method (less a can) and especially the 3 coat limit because when done the right way you just really don't need any more. It just can't net any better results for you so why waste the time or product. I have had some really amazing results with these spray cans. I still find myself shocked when I finish a job with 3 progressive coats of this clear coat and look over the results. I only wish I knew this 2 years ago the first time i did my headlights haha. I learned this method on my own and now would never do it any other way. I recently used this technique over rustoleum lens tint (the 1 and only) on my head and tail lights and let me tell you.... They finished flawless and look store bought. That lens tint has a seriously BAD rap but its just not being done right. Anyway, thanks for the video and nice job.
Brad Angove seriously. finished last night, used this technique while touching up clear on my car roof- massive surface area! completely nailed it after the sad little single can coat I attempted beforehand. You're the hero Gotham deserves
Sroor9001 trial and error really, starting on one side, spraying side to side starting from outside and going to centre, running to the other side of the car and resuming from middle, even strokes from side to side until i reached the other outer side. That way I kept the layers even (not to mention using a lot more cans than I expected)
+Tech of Tomorrow I assume you're referring to painting a guitar or instrument and not a plastic panel haha. That's definitely true for acoustic instruments, and while this technique will help one to get a better coat, it will be important to limit the number of coats. It's debatable whether more paint will have a noticeable effect on an electric guitar. I don't think any one would be able to tell the difference in sound with the amount of extra paint that you could conceivably use by employing this technique.
The spray can you used seems to be the same stuff I used years ago. There's a lot of clear coat in that can! The only thing is that when you use this (the Rustoleum 2X gloss), the paint underneath has to be ABSOLUTELY DRY. I think I found out that a week is the safe point (for drying) before you use the top gloss. If the paint isn't dry, the clear coat reacts with the paint and can melt plastic (which is what I'm using the clear coat for to top off). I've had this happen between Rustoleum product (Rustoleum spraypaint for plastic and the Rustoleum 2X clear gloss) sprayed on the same small sample of plastic. I've used Dupli-Color and as long as you keep within the line (use all Dupli-Color from adhesion promoter to the clear gloss), it doesn't react. The problem is I don't think I like the way the Dupli-Color gloss looks AND it leaves a rough texture which is another thing. It makes me wonder if I'm doing something wrong or if the Dupli-Color gloss is not good for my project. The top coat doesn't feel smooth unless you sand it which as I understood it you shouldn't have to do for a proper gloss coat!!!! It's a shame because I've had good results with Dupli-Color in the past but apparently the Dupli-Color gloss coat sucks for my use! I think I'm going to go back to the Rustoleum 2X Clear Coat and taking the advice and get a second can (which I may need to get anyway; I'm getting low on what I have left). This may give me a more even coat on my plastic case project. In the meantime, I'm gonna have to wet-sand for the MILLIONTH TIME the stupid damn case but I want to get this project right and have it dried off and finished hopefully by the middle of June, end of June. I'm reconditioning and painting (in a new gloss color) an old joystick case (20-plus year-old Dreamcast Agetec joystick case) and spending way too much time on repairing this thing!
I’ll have a video coming out soon on how to get a beautiful finish with duplicolor (it involves using different clear), but for now you should take a look at my video on how to get a professional looking clear coat with spray cans. It’s over rustoleum.
@@BradAngove I think I'm going with Rustoleum. It's more economical and in the case of the finish I've liked the results I've gotten with the Rustoleum better than what I'm seeing with the Dupli-Color. The clear coat/gloss of the Dupli-Color just isn't working for me. Either I got a bad can, I don't know what I'm doing, or it's just junk. Probably a bit of all that.
Thanka foe the info! I'm gonna buy some wide spray caps and use this type of clear, I was about to order 2k but you just conviced me to use a standard 1k clear can thats easily available just about everywhere.
I always had good luck with plain ol' Krylon, which is half the price of the catalyzed stuff. Got a very acceptable high gloss. So of course, it promptly disappeared from all my local stores ...
Gee, I've had exactly the opposite experience; used it on guitars, motorcycle frames and even engine cylinders, good durability, good workability, though I couldn't speak for compatibility, never tried using it with anything else. Now, Rustoleum gave me all the aggravations you mention, and more!
Great video. I never considered using toucan's to spray before. I've since moved on to 2K clear but the next time I am doing a cost conscience job I'm going to try this method.
I have been painting for 25 years (as a hobbits, air brushes, detail/jamb gun, spray cans, etc). I have never seen the two can method before. I would have laughed, until I saw the results! That is really ingenious. Maybe not for everyone (hard to get the right pattern at first), but well done!!!
Thanks, I'm glad you like it. I find it particularly useful for doing high volume work, but it does take a bit of coordination and practice. I certainly wouldn't advise it for people who haven't mastered working with one can first.
I see that in using 2 cans, you don't get that 'dry edge' look when using one can as you work, and it also has the volume you would get from a paint gun! Nice tip....! I will certainly try that method!:) Cheers!
Thank you, I went with the oil based semi gloss polyurethane, since it was designed for wood..... Friendly, I was afraid that clear 2x will chip off easily, and prep. will involve two extra steps. Oil based poly grabbed in wood with first coat without any problems. Sincerely Vladimir
What I do with my scale 124th and 125th plastic model cars is I get a good clear coat from Tamia or something like that and I have even used that 2K clear stuff and the 2x stuff and many other types of clear coat perfect match Rust-Oleum clear enamel finish all kinds of different clear coats and every time I've noticed is if you can spray it as wet as possible before it runs the shinier it gets when it dries and you got less work when you wet sand and buff because it comes out with super shiny like glass and hardly any runs or any orange coat as long as you spray it wet enough that's the trick even with your base coat you spray it on as wet as you can on your third coat that way it's smooth it doesn't have time to dry in the air and then stick to the object or painting and cause to be rough with orange peel. And what I described and that's with enamel and acrylic works for me but also your climate you live in has a big big factor in how shiny your paint job is and how you need to spray it on. Yes he is correct the figure of the spray pattern you can get the better because it's less streaks in it I've used two cans before even before watching this video and it makes a better finish I'll even use two cans on my scale models I build just to get a smooth finish what I have to do two passes and less chance of atomization in the air as well because you got more wet paint than you do dry paint in the air
I use a heat lamp to heat my paint cans . Nothing crazy, just raise the temp slowly maybe 20 minutes of indirect heat. it breaks the viscosity down. Making it fluid enough to flow and reduce orange peel.
When I was first learning woodworking all the books use the term "washcoat" which I've also heard from stewmac etc. But "tack coat" makes perfect sense also.
@@BradAngove True. Plus for a beginner tack coat likely makes more sense as they can draw on the name an use common sense/context clues to understand what you're talking about. Whereas "wash coat" could be confusing.
the spray tips on the rustoleum brand are the best...they don't leave any splatter marks..nice smooth flow. i used an expensive clear brand and that tip left splatter marks
Used that orange can UPOL clear for my bumper...had to re-sand and re-spray base and clear to cover splatter marks...going to use your tip to turn can upside down next time to clear nozzle
Nice 👍🏽. A great idea for a next video will be cleaning the clear coat from the dust then give it another coats. Also it would be great if the camera is behind u while spraying. All the best from Kuwait 🇰🇼
Krylon clear glaze coat on a guitar I got micro bubbling 3 times!!!! I sanded recoated and still bubbles. I guess I didnt let it dry completely 24hrs and apply several thin coats. I just went 1 thin then thick wet right away. Its maddening. I used Krylon clear glaze over Krylon black.
awesome video, thanks for all the good tips. The double spray cans was nicely done and a great example. I have had such a hard time with clear coating I hardly bother anymore with it and just repaint every year with flat colors.
+Mel Smith I'm glad you liked the video. Clear coating can be pretty finicky. Even with tricks like this it takes some practice to get it right consistently.
man you crack me uup with your videos.. I don't understand how these kids get on here and are immediately like a professional reporter with a script and all this editing and shiit. you are real, jyst filming yourself talk and its hilarious your train of thought all the tiime with cuts and moving around.. don't be offended man it's refreshing to see real people still. keep it up
I'm not offended. I've been too lazy to script anything since day one. The cuts are for pacing, but I'm also too lazy to learn better editing techniques haha.
Great video Bard. whats the difference between this clear coat and a poly based clear coat? I didnt see you sanding between coat , does it not require this? how long do you wait between coats? Is it good for wood as well? ( I have this clear coat and still havent used it )
It's just a different compound. You don't need to sand between coats if you re-coat within the recast window so that the coats can bond chemically. If you wait beyond that you need to let it dry and sand lightly. I waited 10-15 minutes between coats.
maybe joining 2 cans together along with a modified "Double tip"/ trigger setup might help anyone not able to manipulate 2 cans at once. Great videos. Thanks
This is the first video on this subject, and I'm still left with questions, because "flat surfaces" are non-existent for my project. A. I'm painting a never-painted steel bike frame: I did primer coats, a silver undercoat, stenciled a logo, then a candy green paint on parts, not all, of frame (headtubes/ top tube, seat tube) A(1): I was too impatient and "newb" on green coats, so I have some blotch ing ~ I'm not going to stress on that. B. The clear 2K coat spray can comes with a "hand grenade pin" to pull(!??); so my questions are: 1. If/when I pull that pin (obviously mixing a two part product), must I use it all "in one go" or can it last a couple days? 2. Given no flat surfaces, and only one can, any clues on doing it "one side at a time" or otherwise? And were I to do one at a time, how to ensure full even coverage? Sorry I'm long-worded; if anyone has ideas, experience or pointers, or other video links, I just ordered a respirator (Honeywell 5500) and am awaiting its delivery. Thanks much
Hi Brad I have had some experience spraying my motorcycle suit years ago.I am half way through your video I don't think you will be touching on what I need to know in this video but I am in the process of spraying my friends acoustic guitar only the part that has Leslie West signature on it. I am using an clear satin finish spray from stew mac.I don't want it to be shiny. kinda flat.I have to do the whole section of course it's on the lower side leg side.only going to do the bottom. It was signed with a sharpie. I intend to hit the first tack shot very light. Thanks for posting your videos. c];-)
Good stuff. I am a maintenance engineer and have commercial no parking signs to put up outside. Two are plastic, one is aluminum and the last is aluminum or steel. All preprinted or painted. My question is whether it would be a good idea to clear-coat them for greater longevity and durability with respect to the elements. I have both spray and brush applicable products. Any advice would be helpful. Thank you for these helpful videos.
In order to clear coat them you would need to sand the existing paint a bit and clean it to allow the new clear coat to stick. It can be challenging to paint plastic and metal directly without the right primers too. It may be risky to try to clear coat them now.
Thx man! A pro at work! To many hilarious "artists" and teens destroy an old guitar they found in a cupboard. What you could do is make a vid about restoring a surface that has been painted with brushes. Then find the noob that did it in the first place and offer them medicine.
Brad, can you do more videos on EEEERRRRRYTHING else in life!!! I listened to everything you said - intensely. I don’t even paint but I will find something in that garage to throw out so I can set up my new paintin’ studio with your videos playing on a loop. Thank you for your knowledge and “things”. 😃
It would be cool to explain the difference between clears with and without catalyst and when you could use each one. I assume this will be less scratch resistant than something with an activator.
That's a great idea. I'll try to get that in to one of my upcoming "Ask Brad" videos. The activator generally just tends to decrease cure time, but there are hardeners available for enamels that cause them to dry harder and more scratch resistant from what I understand.
I’m no painter but this is what I’m doing. I have a 2005 Paint match 122/200 on my Harley Wide Glide and I changed out the thin front spoke tire and installed a 09 Fatboy chrome wheel and fender I’m trying to replicate the Pearl Yellow with black flames with outlined red trim. My goal is when finished I won’t be able to feel the flame lines with the clear coat I bought raffle can base coat with mid coat Pearl yellow and vivid black along with the Firefighter red paint pen for around the flame and plan on laying all colors before I clear coat entire fender. So anything I should do other than prep first?
I'd be interested in seeing how you 'patch' an area with clear-coat: where you have done a repair to one area, and are blending in with existing clear-coat. ???
Hi Brad, I am painting a motorcycle hard saddlebag top to match the bike and I amusing the Aerosol ColorRite paint. I have gone through a number of iterations and finally have good coverage / color (paint-wise). Any time I apply the clear coat I never can get uniform coverage. I get a lot of anomalies in the coat as it dries. I have two pieces (one for each saddlebag) and I can never get a real gloss finish. I may have to sand down the clear coat with 1000, then 1500, then 2000, and then use a light cut polishing compound. I have only tried spraying the clear coat, then on the parts that have anomalies, I have tried the light cut polishing compound that ColorRite provided. The result is that the untouched clear coat is the most brilliant and the polished areas that I used the (light cut polishing compound) on are dull and not glossy. Again, I am not a painter but I may have to try sanding down the clear coat with 1000, then 1500, then 2000, and then use the light cut polishing compound on it. I sprayed one of the covers last night with the clear coat and the spray can was glogged a bit and part of the finish dried with "spirts" of bubble-like areas along with a few small areas with dust. The ironic part is that the one area with the small bubble-like anomalies also happens to be the clearest (just like a mirror - which is what I am trying to achieve on the entire two pieces, but I am going to have to sand down the area anyway because of the bubble-like finish.) Like I said, I am very frustrated. I am almost out of the second bottle of clear coat (made by ColorRite). Also, do I have to stick with their own clear coat (this stuff is $16.95 per 12oz. can plus S/H). It is getting ridiculous. Any advice would be helpful. Thank you! Sincerely, Kevin.
+KSlatt0327 Hi Kevin. If the paint doesn't appear to be glossing out, you may need to put it on just a little bit heavier. I know the can probably says to apply in light coats, but light coats often don't flow properly to achieve gloss. What are you using to apply/buff the polishing compound? It's not uncommon for untouched clear to look the clearest and glossiest, but if you're polishing properly you should be able to get a beautiful mirror gloss at the end of the process. Have you taken a look at my videos on how to polish clear coat? I would think that you would be able to use a different can of clear if you want, but you'll want it to be the same type (not necessarily the same brand). Do you know what type of paint that is?
+Brad Angove Hi Brad, sorry for the delayed response. I am planning on using a lint-free Micro Fiber cloth to apply/buff the light cut polishing compound. The type of paint is (I looked it up on ColorRite's website) urethane aerosol motorcycle paint. Can you tell me what grade sand paper I should be using to get the best "Mirror" end result? I have 1000, then 1500, then 2000. Should I go higher then that? Also, can I wet sand that saddlebag covers I am working with or should I dry sand them (wet would be easier - that's why I ask). Is there an email address that I could send you a couple pics of the saddlebag covers? This way I could show you how the clear coat looks, prior to me doing any sanding. As I mentioned in my first post, on one of the covers the clear coat (the spray can was glogged a bit) dried with "spirts" of bubble-like areas along with a few small areas with dust. I am assuming that this would not be too big of a deal because I would be sanding down some of the clear coat anyway. If you have an email address (you can spell AT and DOTCOM). Thank you again for your help! Sincerely, Kevin.
If you can go higher than 2000 grit, it will make it easier to polish the scratches out afterward because they will be small. If you're dealing with something that is resistant to water, feel free to wet sand. I don't wet sand guitars because I don't want to get water in the holes and cause the wood to swell. You can send pictures to brad.angove@gmail.com, or send them to my on my facebook. The link is in the description of the video.
+Brad Angove Hi Brad, I emailed you a link to a zip file that contains five (5) pictures. Please take a look at them and let me know what you think. The small dust / spots probably won't be that much of an issue because I will be sanding the panels anyway. This is also probably true with the less glossy areas. Please let me know what you think! Also, the last picture is a picture of the same exact bike that I have (Honda CTX700) with the same E41 aftermarket side saddlebags that I am working with. As you can see in the finished product, that is basically how I would like my RED tops to look like. Thank you! :)
Batman, may have missed earlier videos, so apologies. i am trying to protect a metal (?tin) shiny silver side table. bought 2 few months back and placed outside under patio, but just recently noticed 1 is suddenly rusty. my thought was to clear coat to protect the other one (and the new one coming soon). need info pls on proper clear coat product to use to keep shine but still protect. thanks for all! matt.
Hi Matt. Paint doesn’t generally stick to raw metal, which is why we have primers etc. Your best bet if you need to clear coat it is to spray it with some adhesion promoter first and then ideally you would apply some gloss 2k clear.
I stumbled on this because I’m planning to do a DIY project on a table surface, I’d like to ask if it’s possible to use a 2K clear coat on a wood stain surface finish? Great and informative video I would say.
Thank you, Brad. I am planning to finish couple of cabinets built from ply, and wanted just a clear finish to seal and protect. I went to HD last night and got cans of 2x clear.... Hope it will stick to sended and clean plywood?
It should stick, but it probably won't leave you with a smooth finish on sanded plywood. I suggest you consider grain filling it, but even if you choose not to do that, a clear sealer is probably a better way to start than going straight to enamel clear coat.
One trick for keeping dust down, if applicable. Dampen the area your're painting in. I've been painting in a old greenhouse and I just run the water hose over the floor and walls lightly. It works wonders!
Indeed. I like to use a little spray bottle and mist the area.
@@BradAngove would running a humidifier in the area achieve the same results?
No, you actually need mist in the air to trap the dust. Increasing humidity is actually a bad thing when painting.
I tried hosing down the walls and ceiling in my living room but the water dripped into my clear coat job and the guy downstairs said he had water dripping on his forehead while he was sleeping. There was no dust though it actually works.
I use 5 cans, it’s rough.
I absolutely love people going out of their way to help people out on their free time like this with information they think could help. 10/10
Thanks Keegan
Make sure that you wet sand the product also. Your item should cure completely for about 6 days before clear coating. A good rule is that if you can still smell the paint, it has not cured.
Dude, I about died laughing when you said "oh, by the way, always wear a respirator", then u continued to paint without one!!🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Hahaha
@@BradAngove sorry, I just fixed my comment but it was supposed to say you continued to paint WITHOUT one, that's why it was so funny!! Awesome video though, made me laugh and was super helpful, never would have thought about using 2 cans at once!!! Thank you!
No you didnt lol
That was edited , he added the remark afterwards
I always wondered why he didn’t wear one, he could always do a time lapse of the spraying, the dub any comments he wants to add later. Don’t underestimate how much damage repeat exposure can do.
The answer to my questions, great job of keeping it simple for all us knuckleheads
Da Wabbit Glad to be of service.
I sprayed 3 coats each on two sets of headlights with a small can of 2K with the hardner and they turned out perfect. Used up the whole can. I gave them 15 minutes flash time between coats.
Another good tip is to make sure that the service you're painting and your clear coat and or paint is warmed up adequately. All liquids become less viscous when warmed. When it's less viscous it will flow out and level much better. Careful though of vertical surfaces, with less viscosity also comes more chance for runs. For those of you that don't know viscosity is defined as a liquids resistance to flow. As in water is less viscous than honey.
The ambient temperature is very important, if it's 90F outside i.e. you don't need to be warming anything up. Also good to read your instructions for the recommended temperatures, depending on the temperature different hardeners can be needed. It's crazy how many variables there are with paint, i.e. if it was 20 degrees cooler you might have a different experience, can be the difference between runs etc. Painting is all about experience, but also using good paint. Use quality products and get quality results. Keep in mind not everyone is going to be able to spray paint as well as Brad, and also these spray cans work much better for small things like guitars. Not to discourage the use though.
I have always had poor results when applying the clear coat….until I watched your video. Simple instructions but worked beautifully. Thank you!!!
I’m very glad to hear that
You sir, are an invaluable part of this video business website. I have been building guitar distortions (pedals) for years and always messed up the clear coating. Not anymore though! From the bottom of my hear thank you so much! You and your channel is pure quality.
Thanks man. I’m glad you found the video helpful.
I think you are the best teacher out there Brad. You video's kick ass and are a great deal of help. Thx for taking the time out to do tutorials, AWESOME.
Thank you, I really appreciate that and I'm glad that you're finding the videos helpful.
thanks batman
+Si Dog Ducati You're welcome good citizen of gotham.
Rofl I immediately thought the exact same thing XD you beat me to it
I didn't think Batman but the actor. But same thing. But yea you do favor. And have some of the same mannerisms. You'd be a good stand in.
I thought both batman and the actor not just the appearance of Ben but ill be damned voice 2
How to dry clear coating properly? Mine just won't dry entirely. They say don't put in under the sun.
The duel spray can method with the fans at 90° to each other was a game changer for me. Thanks man
Perpendicular fans? Do you move perpendicularly with each can?
Great stuff. Saving me from giving up on my "luthier" work. Greatly appreciate the "you don't have to do it like it's always been done" approach.
Thanks Ed. The instrument world is oddly resistant to change sometimes, but that doesn’t mean a little change is a bad thing.
Unbelievable!!! 🤩🤩😁 Thanks so much. Had been spraying a boot spoiler with 1 can of lacquer and the results were not what I wanted so I hit it lightly with 400 grit, cleaned it down and sprayed with 2 cans and what a difference. Thanks for sharing and stay safe
I’m glad it helped! Thanks for watching.
This is by far the best clear coat tutorial on all of UA-cam, subbed and liked my man. Keep up the awesome content
Thanks man. I’m glad you liked it.
Been watching your tutorials for a while now, you really know your stuff..massive help to me thanks for everything.🔥👍👍
More coats "is" better. 😉
You had it right the first time. More coats are one as a whole, being compared to less coats as a whole (one thing compared to another thing). It does sound awkward I agree, but it's one of those tricky parts of our language. I thought you'd appreciate the clarification since you stopped to think about it. Not being a snarky troll, I just find we can be useful to each other in a productive way. Great tutorial! Thanks! 🙏
That’s an interesting way of looking at it. Thank you for the clarification.
I would have never figured to use 2 cans.thanks for some more great tips .
Ya, it's oddly helpful haha. Thanks for watching.
What a great two can spray master. Thanks for your channel. Not easy to get use to two cans at the same time
It takes a bit of practice, but it can speed things up nicely when you get the hang of it.
Great! Thanks so much! I've watched so many videos but found yours to be the most informative so I truly appreciate you taking the time to get back to me.
So glad I watched this b4 I started spraying, I'm confident of success now. Thanks from Manchester UK.
Cheers Lewis
“Spraying it with two cans. You kinda........heh, two cans”
Your delivery of that was so much funnier than the realization itself hahah
stgtr
Probably 1 of the funniest how to videos I’ve ever seen 😂
@Jeff Webre You may want to consider using a can of catalyzed polyurethane clear coat. It is more expensive, and you will need to wear a respirator, but it provides a stronger finish. You would only need one can, as it has a nice fan cap on it. Spraymax makes one. It's available through the coastairbrush website.
I was a pro painter for 17 years of spraying lacquer. I have retired from that (disability) and I sold my spray rigs before moving to a new state. A buddy was building stomp boxes and paying for them to be pre finished and it was junk spray jobs. So I Started using Lacquer in a can (real nitro). But I can not do a tac coat. if I tried that with a Graco 990 airless sprayer it would orange peel.
I shoot on a normal coat of sealer. Sand, then a second coat, sand. Then coats of clear. Why do none of you guys ever use sanding sealer? I went from 3,000 airless spray rigs to Stew Mac Lacquer cans on metal instead of wood. I am already better than the guys selling the pedal boxes. But I still consider myself new to metal and cans.| Why no sanding sealer? Why tac coats?
Is lacquer not best for metal? I see lots of enamel. But I never see oil based lacquer sanding sealer and oil based sating or gloss to top coat it.
We don't use sanding sealer on metal because there's no need to seal it. Sealer is important for wood of course to prevent the paint from soaking into the pores, but on metal that's not an issue. Instead we deal with adhesion issues.
Essentially, instead of using sanding sealer on metal we use primer. The tack coat is just to keep the paint from running on the wetter coats because enamels and polyurethanes tend to go on in slightly heavier coats than lacquer.
They used to use lacquer on cars/metal all the time ( a very long time ago), but now there are finishes that are faster and more durable, so lacquer isn't as popular a choice anymore.
Brad Angove do you know if the spray max clear goes over acrylic paint without reacting ... I do a lot of art in acrylic paints ?
+Jacqueline Powter I've used it over automotive acrylics before. I just make sure the paint is dry before I spray the clear.
Brilliant... it does seem to be the best !
In addition, as Brad noted, quality also comes with practice. I've had to redo coats (including waiting for initial curing - approx 4 - 7 days depending on product, re-cleaning, re-sanding, etc.) many times. I've also had small jobs become big messes either due to perfectionism or rushing. Take your time, be patient, and let the paint do what it must to cure. I also agree with the 5 - 10 minute waiting period between coats, but, as noted in other comments, account for where you're painting - airflow, ambient dust, temperatures, humidity. Sometimes experience is what you get when you least want it, but patience and being willing to be "bad" before becoming proficient are keys to succeeding.
Bruce Wayne...
The billionaire?
Martha!
SF PV i
Two cans are you kidding?Some people have trouble spraying with one.Here is my trick.Put the spray can on a paint shaker.This will give you better atomization.Use a heat gun to warm the object being painted.Sure way to get a run is painting something cold.Finally, put your spray can in a bucket of hot water for ten minutes.I have been painting for 40 years and this always works for me.I recommend to use the 2k clear for best results.
Wheel repair
Love the dry humor, you never laugh so it really busts me up man 😂. Yes great instruction too, especially about the dry times between coats, thanks!
There's something very important he forgot to tell you...Don't cross the streams...Total Protonic Reversal could happen...
Hahaha
It’s a joke. But, you really shouldn’t cross the streams. You can overlap them, but if you try to actually cross them they will interfere with each other’s atomization.
This is true with urinals as well..
the code official r/cursedcomments
After watching this I got a proper gloss finish on a alloy wheel. Unlike the other 2 I’ve already done. Nice work 👍
Glad I could help.
Thank you Batman I plan to do this sometime next week
I hope it goes well for you.
You’re a lifesaver. No other video helped me like this and i’m so grateful!!!!
I’m glad I could help.
@@BradAngove I sprayed some paint on my car but it has orange peel (i haven’t clear coated yet). Should i clearcoat then sand it down or sand it down the clearcoat?
I’d sand smooth before clear coat unless it’s metallic.
So, I tried the "Double Can" technique on laying down clear for a bumper I am fixing. I did 1 pass across the top of the bumper (tack coat), using Rustoleum Clear Enamel, and INSTANTLY got a curtain of clear runs. I will sand it down and give it another shot using just 1 can and see what happens.
Your tack coat should be lighter than your other coats. Make sure your can is well shaken, and move it more quickly to avoid that problem.
Brad Angove thanks! I actually tried it again tonight, and discovered that I was spraying too close to the bumper. I kept the cans slightly farther back from the bumper. It seemed odd, but it worked great!
I'm glad to hear it. The speed at which you move the can, and the distance that you hold it from the piece, are the two main elements that control how heavy your coat it. I cover it in my demo video on how to get an even coat of paint with spray cans.
I like the way you look at things . Puts a whole new perspective on a goal we're all trying to achieve . Who hasn't sprayed it again a second time because we weren't happy with our first attempt .
Hes the Clearcoater Gotham deserves but not the one it needs right now
Sir much appreciated it it did help a lot!!
Just here too watch him 😂🤷🏻♀️❤️
Well done. This is the first time i've actually heard someone explain this done this way aside from myself. I use basically the same method (less a can) and especially the 3 coat limit because when done the right way you just really don't need any more. It just can't net any better results for you so why waste the time or product. I have had some really amazing results with these spray cans. I still find myself shocked when I finish a job with 3 progressive coats of this clear coat and look over the results. I only wish I knew this 2 years ago the first time i did my headlights haha. I learned this method on my own and now would never do it any other way. I recently used this technique over rustoleum lens tint (the 1 and only) on my head and tail lights and let me tell you.... They finished flawless and look store bought. That lens tint has a seriously BAD rap but its just not being done right. Anyway, thanks for the video and nice job.
+Jason Powers I'm glad the system is working well for you. Thank you for watching and for your comment.
Look at the big brain on Brad! 🤣 Lmao. Actually, that's a really good idea about using 2 cans at once. It's never crossed my mind to even try that.
Hopefully you find it useful haha.
Perfect show and tell. Just what I needed and yes you have much talent with paint. I am somewhat envious
Thank you. I’m glad you found the demo helpful.
Your tack coat looked suspiciously similar to your other coats, in terms of the lightness of the application of the toucans. :p
That is kind of hard with a can, but with airbrushing clear coat is a necessity!
Thank you sir - will help greatly as I'm trying to get into car modelling and been afraid of the CLEARCOAT step!
Are you referring to small model cars?
Thank you, Batman
You're welcome citizen of Gotham.
Brad Angove seriously. finished last night, used this technique while touching up clear on my car roof- massive surface area! completely nailed it after the sad little single can coat I attempted beforehand. You're the hero Gotham deserves
I'm very glad to hear that it worked out for you.
beckhead25 how did you do it on the roof of the car it's wide area
Sroor9001 trial and error really, starting on one side, spraying side to side starting from outside and going to centre, running to the other side of the car and resuming from middle, even strokes from side to side until i reached the other outer side. That way I kept the layers even (not to mention using a lot more cans than I expected)
good video and no bluff and he clearly shows dist particles on it.... they can be polished out AFTER it is well dried !
I just posted a video with some tips on how to avoid them actually.
Brad remember that too many coats effects the tone as well, too much and the tone goes away...
+Tech of Tomorrow I assume you're referring to painting a guitar or instrument and not a plastic panel haha. That's definitely true for acoustic instruments, and while this technique will help one to get a better coat, it will be important to limit the number of coats. It's debatable whether more paint will have a noticeable effect on an electric guitar. I don't think any one would be able to tell the difference in sound with the amount of extra paint that you could conceivably use by employing this technique.
Please provide proof. You can't. Other than opinion.
The spray can you used seems to be the same stuff I used years ago. There's a lot of clear coat in that can!
The only thing is that when you use this (the Rustoleum 2X gloss), the paint underneath has to be ABSOLUTELY DRY. I think I found out that a week is the safe point (for drying) before you use the top gloss. If the paint isn't dry, the clear coat reacts with the paint and can melt plastic (which is what I'm using the clear coat for to top off). I've had this happen between Rustoleum product (Rustoleum spraypaint for plastic and the Rustoleum 2X clear gloss) sprayed on the same small sample of plastic.
I've used Dupli-Color and as long as you keep within the line (use all Dupli-Color from adhesion promoter to the clear gloss), it doesn't react. The problem is I don't think I like the way the Dupli-Color gloss looks AND it leaves a rough texture which is another thing. It makes me wonder if I'm doing something wrong or if the Dupli-Color gloss is not good for my project. The top coat doesn't feel smooth unless you sand it which as I understood it you shouldn't have to do for a proper gloss coat!!!!
It's a shame because I've had good results with Dupli-Color in the past but apparently the Dupli-Color gloss coat sucks for my use!
I think I'm going to go back to the Rustoleum 2X Clear Coat and taking the advice and get a second can (which I may need to get anyway; I'm getting low on what I have left). This may give me a more even coat on my plastic case project. In the meantime, I'm gonna have to wet-sand for the MILLIONTH TIME the stupid damn case but I want to get this project right and have it dried off and finished hopefully by the middle of June, end of June. I'm reconditioning and painting (in a new gloss color) an old joystick case (20-plus year-old Dreamcast Agetec joystick case) and spending way too much time on repairing this thing!
I’ll have a video coming out soon on how to get a beautiful finish with duplicolor (it involves using different clear), but for now you should take a look at my video on how to get a professional looking clear coat with spray cans. It’s over rustoleum.
@@BradAngove I think I'm going with Rustoleum. It's more economical and in the case of the finish I've liked the results I've gotten with the Rustoleum better than what I'm seeing with the Dupli-Color. The clear coat/gloss of the Dupli-Color just isn't working for me. Either I got a bad can, I don't know what I'm doing, or it's just junk. Probably a bit of all that.
“Heh, Toucans (two cans)”
instant subscribe
Just follow your nose!
Thanka foe the info! I'm gonna buy some wide spray caps and use this type of clear, I was about to order 2k but you just conviced me to use a standard 1k clear can thats easily available just about everywhere.
Well, 2K definitely has its benefits. Have a look at my video on 1k vs 2K vs 2x clear coat.
I always had good luck with plain ol' Krylon, which is half the price of the catalyzed stuff. Got a very acceptable high gloss. So of course, it promptly disappeared from all my local stores ...
I always hated krylon. Durability and compatibility issues plagued me when I used it.
Gee, I've had exactly the opposite experience; used it on guitars, motorcycle frames and even engine cylinders, good durability, good workability, though I couldn't speak for compatibility, never tried using it with anything else. Now, Rustoleum gave me all the aggravations you mention, and more!
Fair enough haha.
Yep, "different strokes."
I started working with rustolyum and really learned how to sand out drips, runs and sags.
Krylon is much better for my beginners skills
There's something badass about having Bruce Wayne/Batman teach you how to paint properly. No wonder the Tumbler looked so good! Excellent video!
Thanks. Join me next time when I show how to do the matte black batmobile finish!
You look kinda like David Giuntoli from Grimm. Time to brush up on them acting chops, bruh! Thanks for the video!
Great video. I never considered using toucan's to spray before. I've since moved on to 2K clear but the next time I am doing a cost conscience job I'm going to try this method.
Thanks Jimmy. I don’t know if a toucan can help you though haha. Unless you’re trying to find fruit loops.
You’re very talented but that doesn’t help with the harmful fumes of the spray paint. Please wear mask also!
Great tutorial as always! Thank you for taking your time to share your technique and best practices!
Thanks Jeff; I’m glad you liked it.
I have been painting for 25 years (as a hobbits, air brushes, detail/jamb gun, spray cans, etc). I have never seen the two can method before. I would have laughed, until I saw the results! That is really ingenious. Maybe not for everyone (hard to get the right pattern at first), but well done!!!
Thanks, I'm glad you like it. I find it particularly useful for doing high volume work, but it does take a bit of coordination and practice. I certainly wouldn't advise it for people who haven't mastered working with one can first.
Neat 2 handed technique. The ol' John Woo 2 gun inspiration. Well done.
Thanks
I see that in using 2 cans, you don't get that 'dry edge' look when using one can as you work, and it also has the volume you would get from a paint gun! Nice tip....! I will certainly try that method!:) Cheers!
Thanks, I'm glad you like this technique.
Very cool tip using 2 cans. Definitely going to be trying this
Excellent. I hope it goes well for you.
Thank you, I went with the oil based semi gloss polyurethane, since it was designed for wood.....
Friendly, I was afraid that clear 2x will chip off easily, and prep. will involve two extra steps.
Oil based poly grabbed in wood with first coat without any problems.
Sincerely
Vladimir
I'm glad to hear that it went well for you.
Nice tip...never saw it done before with 2 cans. I'll have to give it a try some time. Thanks!
Glad you like it. Thanks for watching.
Great idea the two can thing, I will use this and I like your yack, yack, yack. Thanks for the great spray can paint trick for large areas.
Thanks for watching. I'm glad you like the technique.
What I do with my scale 124th and 125th plastic model cars is I get a good clear coat from Tamia or something like that and I have even used that 2K clear stuff and the 2x stuff and many other types of clear coat perfect match Rust-Oleum clear enamel finish all kinds of different clear coats and every time I've noticed is if you can spray it as wet as possible before it runs the shinier it gets when it dries and you got less work when you wet sand and buff because it comes out with super shiny like glass and hardly any runs or any orange coat as long as you spray it wet enough that's the trick even with your base coat you spray it on as wet as you can on your third coat that way it's smooth it doesn't have time to dry in the air and then stick to the object or painting and cause to be rough with orange peel. And what I described and that's with enamel and acrylic works for me but also your climate you live in has a big big factor in how shiny your paint job is and how you need to spray it on. Yes he is correct the figure of the spray pattern you can get the better because it's less streaks in it I've used two cans before even before watching this video and it makes a better finish I'll even use two cans on my scale models I build just to get a smooth finish what I have to do two passes and less chance of atomization in the air as well because you got more wet paint than you do dry paint in the air
I use a heat lamp to heat my paint cans . Nothing crazy, just raise the temp slowly maybe 20 minutes of indirect heat. it breaks the viscosity down. Making it fluid enough to flow and reduce orange peel.
I use a container of warm water and just leave them in there for a few minutes.
When I was first learning woodworking all the books use the term "washcoat" which I've also heard from stewmac etc. But "tack coat" makes perfect sense also.
Wash coats are sometimes used as guide coats for flat sanding as well. I generally don’t use the term because it seems to have two meanings haha.
@@BradAngove True. Plus for a beginner tack coat likely makes more sense as they can draw on the name an use common sense/context clues to understand what you're talking about. Whereas "wash coat" could be confusing.
This is an unusually good video.
Thank you.
the spray tips on the rustoleum brand are the best...they don't leave any splatter marks..nice smooth flow. i used an expensive clear brand and that tip left splatter marks
+zzgolf what brand was that?
Used that orange can UPOL clear for my bumper...had to re-sand and re-spray base and clear to cover splatter marks...going to use your tip to turn can upside down next time to clear nozzle
I'll keep that in mind if I ever come across that clear coat. Thanks.
Nice 👍🏽. A great idea for a next video will be cleaning the clear coat from the dust then give it another coats. Also it would be great if the camera is behind u while spraying. All the best from Kuwait 🇰🇼
Krylon clear glaze coat on a guitar I got micro bubbling 3 times!!!! I sanded recoated and still bubbles. I guess I didnt let it dry completely 24hrs and apply several thin coats. I just went 1 thin then thick wet right away. Its maddening. I used Krylon clear glaze over Krylon black.
Nice job for budget paint job nice work thanks
Thanks
uhhh... the 2 can idea is a genius.... and sanding in between groups of coats is genius too.
+Justin Fluidity Thanks Justin. I hope you find them helpful.
awesome video, thanks for all the good tips. The double spray cans was nicely done and a great example. I have had such a hard time with clear coating I hardly bother anymore with it and just repaint every year with flat colors.
+Mel Smith I'm glad you liked the video. Clear coating can be pretty finicky. Even with tricks like this it takes some practice to get it right consistently.
man you crack me uup with your videos.. I don't understand how these kids get on here and are immediately like a professional reporter with a script and all this editing and shiit. you are real, jyst filming yourself talk and its hilarious your train of thought all the tiime with cuts and moving around.. don't be offended man it's refreshing to see real people still. keep it up
I'm not offended. I've been too lazy to script anything since day one. The cuts are for pacing, but I'm also too lazy to learn better editing techniques haha.
yea man, it actually works well I thinks.. I like it cause that is exactly how I would do it but I'm too lazy to even film myself paint anything
+Mc Key Haha fair enough.
Great video Bard. whats the difference between this clear coat and a poly based clear coat? I didnt see you sanding between coat , does it not require this? how long do you wait between coats? Is it good for wood as well? ( I have this clear coat and still havent used it )
It's just a different compound. You don't need to sand between coats if you re-coat within the recast window so that the coats can bond chemically. If you wait beyond that you need to let it dry and sand lightly. I waited 10-15 minutes between coats.
maybe joining 2 cans together along with a modified "Double tip"/ trigger setup might help anyone not able to manipulate 2 cans at once. Great videos. Thanks
That would be interesting. I wonder who one would go to to have something like that made.
What a great idea. Gunna give that a try!! Thanks TG
I hope it goes well for you.
This is the first video on this subject, and I'm still left with questions, because "flat surfaces" are non-existent for my project.
A. I'm painting a never-painted steel bike frame: I did primer coats, a silver undercoat, stenciled a logo, then a candy green paint on parts, not all, of frame (headtubes/ top tube, seat tube)
A(1): I was too impatient and "newb" on green coats, so I have some blotch ing ~ I'm not going to stress on that.
B. The clear 2K coat spray can comes with a "hand grenade pin" to pull(!??); so my questions are:
1. If/when I pull that pin (obviously mixing a two part product), must I use it all "in one go" or can it last a couple days?
2. Given no flat surfaces, and only one can, any clues on doing it "one side at a time" or otherwise? And were I to do one at a time, how to ensure full even coverage?
Sorry I'm long-worded; if anyone has ideas, experience or pointers, or other video links, I just ordered a respirator (Honeywell 5500) and am awaiting its delivery.
Thanks much
Looks pretty good, I guess I'll have to do this tomorrow on my bikes since my painter.......I guess omitted to do it. Wish me luck
Good luck! Are we talking about a motorcycle, or a bicycle here?
Many thanks Brad for this and very helpful and excellent videos.
Thanks John. Glad you liked it.
You make it look so easy!
I had a lot of practice.
Hi Brad I have had some experience spraying my motorcycle suit years ago.I am half way through your video I don't think you will be touching on what I need to know in this video but I am in the process of spraying my friends acoustic guitar only the part that has Leslie West signature on it. I am using an clear satin finish spray from stew mac.I don't want it to be shiny. kinda flat.I have to do the whole section of course it's on the lower side leg side.only going to do the bottom. It was signed with a sharpie. I intend to hit the first tack shot very light. Thanks for posting your videos. c];-)
Have a look at my video on how to protect signatures.
@@BradAngove OK Brad Thanks for the come back c];-)
If you warm up the can it will flow smoothly and be much easier to control with one can.
Thanks dude you’re information is great straight forward to the point. Thanks again 💪👍
Glad I could help
@John Doe I'm glad to hear that you found it helpful.
Ive sprayed like u did man and ive had the paint look like crap and seperate y is that not letting the paint dry long enough? Or too much clear coat?
What do you mean separate? Did it peel off?
I got some 2k clearcoat cans at Menards four of them but only put two coats but never tried the method using two cans at a time yet.
You probably don’t need this technique if you’re using something like a spraymax 2K.
Good stuff. I am a maintenance engineer and have commercial no parking signs to put up outside. Two are plastic, one is aluminum and the last is aluminum or steel. All preprinted or painted. My question is whether it would be a good idea to clear-coat them for greater longevity and durability with respect to the elements. I have both spray and brush applicable products. Any advice would be helpful. Thank you for these helpful videos.
In order to clear coat them you would need to sand the existing paint a bit and clean it to allow the new clear coat to stick. It can be challenging to paint plastic and metal directly without the right primers too. It may be risky to try to clear coat them now.
Thx man! A pro at work! To many hilarious "artists" and teens destroy an old guitar they found in a cupboard. What you could do is make a vid about restoring a surface that has been painted with brushes. Then find the noob that did it in the first place and offer them medicine.
this guy finally retired from Barcelona... great to see you pursuing your hobby, Messi..
Gotta pass the time somehow haha.
Brad, can you do more videos on EEEERRRRRYTHING else in life!!! I listened to everything you said - intensely. I don’t even paint but I will find something in that garage to throw out so I can set up my new paintin’ studio with your videos playing on a loop. Thank you for your knowledge and “things”. 😃
Hahaha thanks Rhonda. I’m glad you’re finding the tutorials helpful.
Are you asking me to take up vlogging? Haha
Good stuff brotha..thanks a lot of good info...
Wow great tips. Much appreciated
It would be cool to explain the difference between clears with and without catalyst and when you could use each one. I assume this will be less scratch resistant than something with an activator.
That's a great idea. I'll try to get that in to one of my upcoming "Ask Brad" videos. The activator generally just tends to decrease cure time, but there are hardeners available for enamels that cause them to dry harder and more scratch resistant from what I understand.
I’m no painter but this is what I’m doing. I have a 2005 Paint match 122/200 on my Harley Wide Glide and I changed out the thin front spoke tire and installed a 09 Fatboy chrome wheel and fender I’m trying to replicate the Pearl Yellow with black flames with outlined red trim. My goal is when finished I won’t be able to feel the flame lines with the clear coat I bought raffle can base coat with mid coat Pearl yellow and vivid black along with the Firefighter red paint pen for around the flame and plan on laying all colors before I clear coat entire fender. So anything I should do other than prep first?
Wow nice job! I actually learned something today!!!
That’s good to hear haha.
I'd be interested in seeing how you 'patch' an area with clear-coat: where you have done a repair to one area, and are blending in with existing clear-coat. ???
what kind of clear coat it is? that makes a big difference.
thank you for your help I am going to buy that clear thanks again
+john murano You're welcome. Glad I could help.
Hi Brad, I am painting a motorcycle hard saddlebag top to match the bike and I amusing the Aerosol ColorRite paint. I have gone through a number of iterations and finally have good coverage / color (paint-wise). Any time I apply the clear coat I never can get uniform coverage. I get a lot of anomalies in the coat as it dries. I have two pieces (one for each saddlebag) and I can never get a real gloss finish. I may have to sand down the clear coat with 1000, then 1500, then 2000, and then use a light cut polishing compound. I have only tried spraying the clear coat, then on the parts that have anomalies, I have tried the light cut polishing compound that ColorRite provided. The result is that the untouched clear coat is the most brilliant and the polished areas that I used the (light cut polishing compound) on are dull and not glossy. Again, I am not a painter but I may have to try sanding down the clear coat with 1000, then 1500, then 2000, and then use the light cut polishing compound on it. I sprayed one of the covers last night with the clear coat and the spray can was glogged a bit and part of the finish dried with "spirts" of bubble-like areas along with a few small areas with dust. The ironic part is that the one area with the small bubble-like anomalies also happens to be the clearest (just like a mirror - which is what I am trying to achieve on the entire two pieces, but I am going to have to sand down the area anyway because of the bubble-like finish.) Like I said, I am very frustrated. I am almost out of the second bottle of clear coat (made by ColorRite). Also, do I have to stick with their own clear coat (this stuff is $16.95 per 12oz. can plus S/H). It is getting ridiculous. Any advice would be helpful. Thank you! Sincerely, Kevin.
+KSlatt0327 Hi Kevin. If the paint doesn't appear to be glossing out, you may need to put it on just a little bit heavier. I know the can probably says to apply in light coats, but light coats often don't flow properly to achieve gloss. What are you using to apply/buff the polishing compound? It's not uncommon for untouched clear to look the clearest and glossiest, but if you're polishing properly you should be able to get a beautiful mirror gloss at the end of the process. Have you taken a look at my videos on how to polish clear coat?
I would think that you would be able to use a different can of clear if you want, but you'll want it to be the same type (not necessarily the same brand). Do you know what type of paint that is?
+Brad Angove Hi Brad, sorry for the delayed response. I am planning on using a lint-free Micro Fiber cloth to apply/buff the light cut polishing compound. The type of paint is (I looked it up on ColorRite's website) urethane aerosol motorcycle paint. Can you tell me what grade sand paper I should be using to get the best "Mirror" end result? I have 1000, then 1500, then 2000. Should I go higher then that? Also, can I wet sand that saddlebag covers I am working with or should I dry sand them (wet would be easier - that's why I ask). Is there an email address that I could send you a couple pics of the saddlebag covers? This way I could show you how the clear coat looks, prior to me doing any sanding. As I mentioned in my first post, on one of the covers the clear coat (the spray can was glogged a bit) dried with "spirts" of bubble-like areas along with a few small areas with dust. I am assuming that this would not be too big of a deal because I would be sanding down some of the clear coat anyway. If you have an email address (you can spell AT and DOTCOM). Thank you again for your help! Sincerely, Kevin.
If you can go higher than 2000 grit, it will make it easier to polish the scratches out afterward because they will be small. If you're dealing with something that is resistant to water, feel free to wet sand. I don't wet sand guitars because I don't want to get water in the holes and cause the wood to swell. You can send pictures to brad.angove@gmail.com, or send them to my on my facebook. The link is in the description of the video.
I can put email addresses in my comments because it's my video. No worries about the spam filter haha.
+Brad Angove Hi Brad, I emailed you a link to a zip file that contains five (5) pictures. Please take a look at them and let me know what you think. The small dust / spots probably won't be that much of an issue because I will be sanding the panels anyway. This is also probably true with the less glossy areas. Please let me know what you think! Also, the last picture is a picture of the same exact bike that I have (Honda CTX700) with the same E41 aftermarket side saddlebags that I am working with. As you can see in the finished product, that is basically how I would like my RED tops to look like. Thank you! :)
Batman, may have missed earlier videos, so apologies. i am trying to protect a metal (?tin) shiny silver side table. bought 2 few months back and placed outside under patio, but just recently noticed 1 is suddenly rusty. my thought was to clear coat to protect the other one (and the new one coming soon). need info pls on proper clear coat product to use to keep shine but still protect. thanks for all! matt.
Hi Matt. Paint doesn’t generally stick to raw metal, which is why we have primers etc.
Your best bet if you need to clear coat it is to spray it with some adhesion promoter first and then ideally you would apply some gloss 2k clear.
You shoulda warned not to swallow spray paint too !
Great vid.
Hey thanks for the tutorial! Just wondering what brand and finish you would suggest for a kids guitar?
A kids guitar would be finished in the same way as a full-sized one. Unless your worried about them chewing on it?
Why are you not at a million yet ? Subbed bro
Thanks man. It’s a pretty niche channel haha.
I stumbled on this because I’m planning to do a DIY project on a table surface, I’d like to ask if it’s possible to use a 2K clear coat on a wood stain surface finish? Great and informative video I would say.
Yes, it’s possible. Just make sure you have the right safety equipment. 2K will kill you.
Thank you for the advice..
Thank you, Brad.
I am planning to finish couple of cabinets built from ply, and wanted just a clear finish to seal and protect.
I went to HD last night and got cans of 2x clear.... Hope it will stick to sended and clean plywood?
It should stick, but it probably won't leave you with a smooth finish on sanded plywood. I suggest you consider grain filling it, but even if you choose not to do that, a clear sealer is probably a better way to start than going straight to enamel clear coat.