@@BradAngove sorry, I just fixed my comment but it was supposed to say you continued to paint WITHOUT one, that's why it was so funny!! Awesome video though, made me laugh and was super helpful, never would have thought about using 2 cans at once!!! Thank you!
I always wondered why he didn’t wear one, he could always do a time lapse of the spraying, the dub any comments he wants to add later. Don’t underestimate how much damage repeat exposure can do.
One trick for keeping dust down, if applicable. Dampen the area your're painting in. I've been painting in a old greenhouse and I just run the water hose over the floor and walls lightly. It works wonders!
I tried hosing down the walls and ceiling in my living room but the water dripped into my clear coat job and the guy downstairs said he had water dripping on his forehead while he was sleeping. There was no dust though it actually works.
I think you are the best teacher out there Brad. You video's kick ass and are a great deal of help. Thx for taking the time out to do tutorials, AWESOME.
You sir, are an invaluable part of this video business website. I have been building guitar distortions (pedals) for years and always messed up the clear coating. Not anymore though! From the bottom of my hear thank you so much! You and your channel is pure quality.
Make sure that you wet sand the product also. Your item should cure completely for about 6 days before clear coating. A good rule is that if you can still smell the paint, it has not cured.
Another good tip is to make sure that the service you're painting and your clear coat and or paint is warmed up adequately. All liquids become less viscous when warmed. When it's less viscous it will flow out and level much better. Careful though of vertical surfaces, with less viscosity also comes more chance for runs. For those of you that don't know viscosity is defined as a liquids resistance to flow. As in water is less viscous than honey.
The ambient temperature is very important, if it's 90F outside i.e. you don't need to be warming anything up. Also good to read your instructions for the recommended temperatures, depending on the temperature different hardeners can be needed. It's crazy how many variables there are with paint, i.e. if it was 20 degrees cooler you might have a different experience, can be the difference between runs etc. Painting is all about experience, but also using good paint. Use quality products and get quality results. Keep in mind not everyone is going to be able to spray paint as well as Brad, and also these spray cans work much better for small things like guitars. Not to discourage the use though.
@Jeff Webre You may want to consider using a can of catalyzed polyurethane clear coat. It is more expensive, and you will need to wear a respirator, but it provides a stronger finish. You would only need one can, as it has a nice fan cap on it. Spraymax makes one. It's available through the coastairbrush website.
I was a pro painter for 17 years of spraying lacquer. I have retired from that (disability) and I sold my spray rigs before moving to a new state. A buddy was building stomp boxes and paying for them to be pre finished and it was junk spray jobs. So I Started using Lacquer in a can (real nitro). But I can not do a tac coat. if I tried that with a Graco 990 airless sprayer it would orange peel. I shoot on a normal coat of sealer. Sand, then a second coat, sand. Then coats of clear. Why do none of you guys ever use sanding sealer? I went from 3,000 airless spray rigs to Stew Mac Lacquer cans on metal instead of wood. I am already better than the guys selling the pedal boxes. But I still consider myself new to metal and cans.| Why no sanding sealer? Why tac coats? Is lacquer not best for metal? I see lots of enamel. But I never see oil based lacquer sanding sealer and oil based sating or gloss to top coat it.
We don't use sanding sealer on metal because there's no need to seal it. Sealer is important for wood of course to prevent the paint from soaking into the pores, but on metal that's not an issue. Instead we deal with adhesion issues. Essentially, instead of using sanding sealer on metal we use primer. The tack coat is just to keep the paint from running on the wetter coats because enamels and polyurethanes tend to go on in slightly heavier coats than lacquer. They used to use lacquer on cars/metal all the time ( a very long time ago), but now there are finishes that are faster and more durable, so lacquer isn't as popular a choice anymore.
Unbelievable!!! 🤩🤩😁 Thanks so much. Had been spraying a boot spoiler with 1 can of lacquer and the results were not what I wanted so I hit it lightly with 400 grit, cleaned it down and sprayed with 2 cans and what a difference. Thanks for sharing and stay safe
Great! Thanks so much! I've watched so many videos but found yours to be the most informative so I truly appreciate you taking the time to get back to me.
I sprayed 3 coats each on two sets of headlights with a small can of 2K with the hardner and they turned out perfect. Used up the whole can. I gave them 15 minutes flash time between coats.
Two cans are you kidding?Some people have trouble spraying with one.Here is my trick.Put the spray can on a paint shaker.This will give you better atomization.Use a heat gun to warm the object being painted.Sure way to get a run is painting something cold.Finally, put your spray can in a bucket of hot water for ten minutes.I have been painting for 40 years and this always works for me.I recommend to use the 2k clear for best results.
More coats "is" better. 😉 You had it right the first time. More coats are one as a whole, being compared to less coats as a whole (one thing compared to another thing). It does sound awkward I agree, but it's one of those tricky parts of our language. I thought you'd appreciate the clarification since you stopped to think about it. Not being a snarky troll, I just find we can be useful to each other in a productive way. Great tutorial! Thanks! 🙏
So, I tried the "Double Can" technique on laying down clear for a bumper I am fixing. I did 1 pass across the top of the bumper (tack coat), using Rustoleum Clear Enamel, and INSTANTLY got a curtain of clear runs. I will sand it down and give it another shot using just 1 can and see what happens.
Brad Angove thanks! I actually tried it again tonight, and discovered that I was spraying too close to the bumper. I kept the cans slightly farther back from the bumper. It seemed odd, but it worked great!
I'm glad to hear it. The speed at which you move the can, and the distance that you hold it from the piece, are the two main elements that control how heavy your coat it. I cover it in my demo video on how to get an even coat of paint with spray cans.
@@BradAngove I sprayed some paint on my car but it has orange peel (i haven’t clear coated yet). Should i clearcoat then sand it down or sand it down the clearcoat?
It’s a joke. But, you really shouldn’t cross the streams. You can overlap them, but if you try to actually cross them they will interfere with each other’s atomization.
Brad Angove seriously. finished last night, used this technique while touching up clear on my car roof- massive surface area! completely nailed it after the sad little single can coat I attempted beforehand. You're the hero Gotham deserves
Sroor9001 trial and error really, starting on one side, spraying side to side starting from outside and going to centre, running to the other side of the car and resuming from middle, even strokes from side to side until i reached the other outer side. That way I kept the layers even (not to mention using a lot more cans than I expected)
I always had good luck with plain ol' Krylon, which is half the price of the catalyzed stuff. Got a very acceptable high gloss. So of course, it promptly disappeared from all my local stores ...
Gee, I've had exactly the opposite experience; used it on guitars, motorcycle frames and even engine cylinders, good durability, good workability, though I couldn't speak for compatibility, never tried using it with anything else. Now, Rustoleum gave me all the aggravations you mention, and more!
Hi Brad, I refurb electronic gear, i do a quick sand to rough of surface, then spray paint the surface. What do you reccomend i use for sealing that spray paint finish? Because i don't want paint to come off if electronic item i moved and hits a wall or scrapes against a surface. I want the paint job to be able to sustain bump, scratches etc. So what do you reccomend i use to seal the spray paint? Has to be something in a can as i don't have paint spray guns, etc. Thanks beforehand for any input. John
I’m no painter but this is what I’m doing. I have a 2005 Paint match 122/200 on my Harley Wide Glide and I changed out the thin front spoke tire and installed a 09 Fatboy chrome wheel and fender I’m trying to replicate the Pearl Yellow with black flames with outlined red trim. My goal is when finished I won’t be able to feel the flame lines with the clear coat I bought raffle can base coat with mid coat Pearl yellow and vivid black along with the Firefighter red paint pen for around the flame and plan on laying all colors before I clear coat entire fender. So anything I should do other than prep first?
+Tech of Tomorrow I assume you're referring to painting a guitar or instrument and not a plastic panel haha. That's definitely true for acoustic instruments, and while this technique will help one to get a better coat, it will be important to limit the number of coats. It's debatable whether more paint will have a noticeable effect on an electric guitar. I don't think any one would be able to tell the difference in sound with the amount of extra paint that you could conceivably use by employing this technique.
In addition, as Brad noted, quality also comes with practice. I've had to redo coats (including waiting for initial curing - approx 4 - 7 days depending on product, re-cleaning, re-sanding, etc.) many times. I've also had small jobs become big messes either due to perfectionism or rushing. Take your time, be patient, and let the paint do what it must to cure. I also agree with the 5 - 10 minute waiting period between coats, but, as noted in other comments, account for where you're painting - airflow, ambient dust, temperatures, humidity. Sometimes experience is what you get when you least want it, but patience and being willing to be "bad" before becoming proficient are keys to succeeding.
Thanka foe the info! I'm gonna buy some wide spray caps and use this type of clear, I was about to order 2k but you just conviced me to use a standard 1k clear can thats easily available just about everywhere.
I like the way you look at things . Puts a whole new perspective on a goal we're all trying to achieve . Who hasn't sprayed it again a second time because we weren't happy with our first attempt .
I have been painting for 25 years (as a hobbits, air brushes, detail/jamb gun, spray cans, etc). I have never seen the two can method before. I would have laughed, until I saw the results! That is really ingenious. Maybe not for everyone (hard to get the right pattern at first), but well done!!!
Thanks, I'm glad you like it. I find it particularly useful for doing high volume work, but it does take a bit of coordination and practice. I certainly wouldn't advise it for people who haven't mastered working with one can first.
Great video Bard. whats the difference between this clear coat and a poly based clear coat? I didnt see you sanding between coat , does it not require this? how long do you wait between coats? Is it good for wood as well? ( I have this clear coat and still havent used it )
It's just a different compound. You don't need to sand between coats if you re-coat within the recast window so that the coats can bond chemically. If you wait beyond that you need to let it dry and sand lightly. I waited 10-15 minutes between coats.
Thanks, have you ever used acrylic lacquer on a guitar. I'm looking for something "less plasticky" than poly and canned nitro is no available in Canada...
Good stuff. I am a maintenance engineer and have commercial no parking signs to put up outside. Two are plastic, one is aluminum and the last is aluminum or steel. All preprinted or painted. My question is whether it would be a good idea to clear-coat them for greater longevity and durability with respect to the elements. I have both spray and brush applicable products. Any advice would be helpful. Thank you for these helpful videos.
In order to clear coat them you would need to sand the existing paint a bit and clean it to allow the new clear coat to stick. It can be challenging to paint plastic and metal directly without the right primers too. It may be risky to try to clear coat them now.
Well done. This is the first time i've actually heard someone explain this done this way aside from myself. I use basically the same method (less a can) and especially the 3 coat limit because when done the right way you just really don't need any more. It just can't net any better results for you so why waste the time or product. I have had some really amazing results with these spray cans. I still find myself shocked when I finish a job with 3 progressive coats of this clear coat and look over the results. I only wish I knew this 2 years ago the first time i did my headlights haha. I learned this method on my own and now would never do it any other way. I recently used this technique over rustoleum lens tint (the 1 and only) on my head and tail lights and let me tell you.... They finished flawless and look store bought. That lens tint has a seriously BAD rap but its just not being done right. Anyway, thanks for the video and nice job.
Great video. I never considered using toucan's to spray before. I've since moved on to 2K clear but the next time I am doing a cost conscience job I'm going to try this method.
thanks for sharing, let me ask you, would you use this technique for a bicycle? and how many coats would you recommend for such task? u know bikes take a beating with weather on our driving them around . i know there are some videos here on bikes secifically but its confusing so looking for a second opinion, i did one at the end of July, followed one tutorial to the letter and the paint just chios so easy it hurts, I did only 2 coats and waited at least 7 days after painted to apply the clear. thank you
Bicycles generally have smaller surface areas, so using two cans probably wouldn't be very helpful. I would probably do 3 coats, but I don't think that the one coat difference would help much. Did you sand your bike before painting it?
man you crack me uup with your videos.. I don't understand how these kids get on here and are immediately like a professional reporter with a script and all this editing and shiit. you are real, jyst filming yourself talk and its hilarious your train of thought all the tiime with cuts and moving around.. don't be offended man it's refreshing to see real people still. keep it up
I'm not offended. I've been too lazy to script anything since day one. The cuts are for pacing, but I'm also too lazy to learn better editing techniques haha.
I would start at the top. I started from closer to me here because of the angle I hold the cans at. I want to be able to paint over the overspray from the cans. On a standing piece, the overspray falls downward, and I want to be able to paint over that.
Thanks for your comment, I want to clear coat some headlights after I sanded them down. They look pretty good, but I"m afraid of fucking it up with the clear coat, never done this before. Thanks for the feedback and video. Keep them coming.
Thanks for watching. If something goes wrong and you put a run in the clear or something that is still fixable, so don't get too stressed over it haha.
Hi Brad I have Rust-oleum lacquer clear coat spray paint how should I spray the clear coat, example apply tac coat wait ten minutes and put second coat wait another 10 minutes and put third coat. Does that sound about righ. THANKS
I stumbled on this because I’m planning to do a DIY project on a table surface, I’d like to ask if it’s possible to use a 2K clear coat on a wood stain surface finish? Great and informative video I would say.
Hi Brad, Thanks for the Video. I have bought some High gloss Black paint can, but it doesnt dry glossy, do I have to put a clearcoat over the top to get the shine? thanks
Hi Tim. My first guess is that you're probably not applying it quite heavy enough. Either that or the surface it's going onto isn't quite smooth. You could sand it lightly and apply another medium-wet coat, but it's probably more advisable to use a gloss clear coat. I would sand it lightly at 800 grit to give the clear something to grip onto for adhesion, and then go over it with a few coats of gloss clear making sure that the clear coat is the same type of paint so that it doesn't react.
HI, i dont know if you check videos this old, but I want to Spray Varnish my Trick or Treat Studious Good Guy Doll's face. Do you have any tips for this process on a "much smaller surface."
@@BradAngove I was thinking about that. Like maybe an arch while spraying as not to be too close at certain points or mounting the head and doing a 360 spray at the appropriate distance. Is there anyway to go back if it does pool?
Hi Brad, thanks for helping out. My base coat is a metallic acrylic 1K paint (duplicollor), over which I plan to use a 2K clear coat . Do I need to dry and scuff the base coat before applying clear? I'm a bit worried about scuffing up the metallic.
Would you happen to know if the Clear Gloss Cover keeps in glitter? Im doing a wood project with glitter paint and I am trying to find a glossy cover to finish it off! Thanks
Ive used rustoleum painters touch gloss on my kitchen cabinets. Unfortunatley they scratch pretty easily. Would you recommend I use rustoleum clear spray paint to put a protective coat on there? Or use a polyurethane product to protect it? If the polyurethane brush or foam on then would you say oil based or water based? Thanks in advance.
Stonecoat resin (epoxy), the acrylic paint has been drying for a week now so I'll lightly sand it and then pour the resin. With stonecoat resin I can use a brush to lightly apply, sand and apply another coat. Does that make sense to you? I don't want the resin 1/4" deep, I just want the depth and shine. Thanks Brad!
I have a question if you have the time --- my concern is getting everything correct and then making a mistake in the final clear coat. I will be hand painting on top of spray painted enamel on a metal enclosure. My concern is avoiding that reptilian, scale-like crackle that can happen. In the past I have had smooth surfaces from clear coating on *plastics* but I have also had it "scab up" on me more times than I like. Since I do not know what causes this I am unsure on how to even go about preventing it. Do you have any advice? I hope I was clear and thanks in advance!
I must have missed it --- will do. I can say that I got some more "crazing" and it was the result of moving the recently sprayed piece out of dusts way but into a warmer area. Thanks again! :)
Brad if you only can help here. Last week desided to refurbish my wife's car rusty wheels. I cleaned them with wire brush and sandpaper as mush as I could and then used rust inhibitor consisting mostly of phosphoric acid.Brushed and left overnight to react properly. Next day washed the wheels with soapy water , dried them and sprayed with acid primer - 3 coats 10 min apart and then after an hour with three coats satin black again 10 minutes apart. All good for the first two three days but then noticed that some white residue is popping out through the top paint and the surface is getting rough. Washed the wheels a few times but the white stuff / stain comes back. Any advise?
I'm sorry; unfortunately I don't have any experience with those paints and don't know much about them. I have no idea what went wrong there. My best guess is you might have a delamination issue because you waited an hour between paint types instead of a day, and presumably didn't sand in between.
Hello! What if the clear coat keeps on cracking? I did a tac coat which sorta looked like orange peel. Then I tried to apply a 2nd coat that was more "wet" but within a few minutes it just cracks. There would be some areas where it wouldn't crack and it's smooth, but it's not uniform. I spray in one constant direction across before going back. I was clear coating some headlights since I had sanded off the oxidized layer. What I ended up doing after several attempts is to apply several layers of light coats, then hitting it with 2000 grit before polishing it a bit. I've done this before and it wasn't anywhere near as difficult to do as it was this time. Is it better to have the clear coat applied to a surface that's as level as possible with the ground?
I'm wanting to clear coat my plastic scooter hood. It's already somewhat shiny, but due to age, is not shiny like new. Do I need to sand it 1st.? Or just clean it and apply the clear coats?
@@BradAngove I tried polishing and that didn't produce a high gloss. I went ahead and just used SEM Gloss and it turned out nice.. Thank you for the great video!!
That's a fun one. I would try to get it as clean as possible without removing the rust, then apply a thin coat of adhesion promoter. Paint has trouble sticking to raw metal, which is why a primer is usually important. For a clear job, that's generally not an option, so I use adhesion promoter instead. Then use your clear. If you want it to look as natural as possible, a matter clear is probably your best bet.
Well, it's not clear coat. Adhesion promoter is essentially just paint glue to help paint stick to surface that it would normally have trouble adhering to. It won't protect against further corrosion, or give a shiny look, or really serve any purpose if you don't then put some kind of paint over it.
The spray can you used seems to be the same stuff I used years ago. There's a lot of clear coat in that can! The only thing is that when you use this (the Rustoleum 2X gloss), the paint underneath has to be ABSOLUTELY DRY. I think I found out that a week is the safe point (for drying) before you use the top gloss. If the paint isn't dry, the clear coat reacts with the paint and can melt plastic (which is what I'm using the clear coat for to top off). I've had this happen between Rustoleum product (Rustoleum spraypaint for plastic and the Rustoleum 2X clear gloss) sprayed on the same small sample of plastic. I've used Dupli-Color and as long as you keep within the line (use all Dupli-Color from adhesion promoter to the clear gloss), it doesn't react. The problem is I don't think I like the way the Dupli-Color gloss looks AND it leaves a rough texture which is another thing. It makes me wonder if I'm doing something wrong or if the Dupli-Color gloss is not good for my project. The top coat doesn't feel smooth unless you sand it which as I understood it you shouldn't have to do for a proper gloss coat!!!! It's a shame because I've had good results with Dupli-Color in the past but apparently the Dupli-Color gloss coat sucks for my use! I think I'm going to go back to the Rustoleum 2X Clear Coat and taking the advice and get a second can (which I may need to get anyway; I'm getting low on what I have left). This may give me a more even coat on my plastic case project. In the meantime, I'm gonna have to wet-sand for the MILLIONTH TIME the stupid damn case but I want to get this project right and have it dried off and finished hopefully by the middle of June, end of June. I'm reconditioning and painting (in a new gloss color) an old joystick case (20-plus year-old Dreamcast Agetec joystick case) and spending way too much time on repairing this thing!
I’ll have a video coming out soon on how to get a beautiful finish with duplicolor (it involves using different clear), but for now you should take a look at my video on how to get a professional looking clear coat with spray cans. It’s over rustoleum.
@@BradAngove I think I'm going with Rustoleum. It's more economical and in the case of the finish I've liked the results I've gotten with the Rustoleum better than what I'm seeing with the Dupli-Color. The clear coat/gloss of the Dupli-Color just isn't working for me. Either I got a bad can, I don't know what I'm doing, or it's just junk. Probably a bit of all that.
What about rounded surfaces like a bike frame? I have been painting them for years and I always just try to keep the can moving and trying not to slow or stop (both moving the cans or pressing the nozzle). I see multiple people say that you should dust the paint and do 4-5 coats. Then wet sand and polish it. I have never been unhappy with my final results with my method. But, I have had a couple tiny runs or "clumps" but they aren't big so I don't tend to worry about it. The frame I am about to paint is probably the last BMX bike seeing I'm 42 in April and it has a lifetime warranty. But I want it to be as perfect as I can get it. Thanks in advance for any help, I'm using spray paint incase it was in question
+M Davis For surfaces like that there's no need to use two cans, especially if you're getting the occasional run. Don't dust it on though. There aren't very many paint types where dusting it on is a good idea.
I'm extremely new to spay paint jobs. Is there any rule that I cannot use *"too high"* of grit sandpaper? Current I have a few 1000 grit sandpaper laying around in my house. Would that be a problem if I were to use it?
Hi its me again. What kind of clear coat should I use? (I have MontanaGOLD 400ml Varnish Gloss) its for a xbox controller after I have painted it with auto air colors. and is putting a bigger nozzle on the can the same as 2 cans?and im having a problem with what looks like cracking is that coz im putting it on to heavy or not letting it flash of or both?i have got the painting down but I really need some help whit the clear coating.would love to show you what I have painted so far from what I have picked up from your vids.thanks for all the help so far tom
Hi Tom. If you want to show me what you've got you can send me the pictures on Facebook using the link in the description. I would love to check them out, and could maybe help more if I was what was wrong. The Montana Gold should work fine, but I can't say for sure since I've never used it. You are probably right about putting it on too heavy and possibly not letting it flash long enough. How long are you waiting between coats?
@2MinuteSoup The clear coating is the same, but there are other steps involved in getting paint to bond to plastic properly. I have a video about how to do that.
hey i have a older truck that is rattle can camo painted but they did a really good job and i wanted to clear coat it with a can any suggestions the job is a bit rough as its been a bit weathered.
Thank you, Brad. I am planning to finish couple of cabinets built from ply, and wanted just a clear finish to seal and protect. I went to HD last night and got cans of 2x clear.... Hope it will stick to sended and clean plywood?
It should stick, but it probably won't leave you with a smooth finish on sanded plywood. I suggest you consider grain filling it, but even if you choose not to do that, a clear sealer is probably a better way to start than going straight to enamel clear coat.
@@BradAngove i bought a can of spraymax 2K...Will that be ok to spray on top of the home made wipe on polyurethane that i put on the back of the guitar. i mixed gloss poly with paint thinner and put many thin coats on.
hi brad how soon after you paint should you apply the clear coat? should the paint be complete dry like 24 hours or 15 minute like the time between paint coats thanks your video's are very helpful
+john murano Either of those can be correct. If you have laid down several coats of wet paint in a row, it's probably best to let it dry 24 hours, sand lightly, and clear coat. If you've only put down one or two in the last session, it's reasonable to just wait 10 minutes or so and then put down a couple coats of clear.
awesome video, thanks for all the good tips. The double spray cans was nicely done and a great example. I have had such a hard time with clear coating I hardly bother anymore with it and just repaint every year with flat colors.
+Mel Smith I'm glad you liked the video. Clear coating can be pretty finicky. Even with tricks like this it takes some practice to get it right consistently.
What I do with my scale 124th and 125th plastic model cars is I get a good clear coat from Tamia or something like that and I have even used that 2K clear stuff and the 2x stuff and many other types of clear coat perfect match Rust-Oleum clear enamel finish all kinds of different clear coats and every time I've noticed is if you can spray it as wet as possible before it runs the shinier it gets when it dries and you got less work when you wet sand and buff because it comes out with super shiny like glass and hardly any runs or any orange coat as long as you spray it wet enough that's the trick even with your base coat you spray it on as wet as you can on your third coat that way it's smooth it doesn't have time to dry in the air and then stick to the object or painting and cause to be rough with orange peel. And what I described and that's with enamel and acrylic works for me but also your climate you live in has a big big factor in how shiny your paint job is and how you need to spray it on. Yes he is correct the figure of the spray pattern you can get the better because it's less streaks in it I've used two cans before even before watching this video and it makes a better finish I'll even use two cans on my scale models I build just to get a smooth finish what I have to do two passes and less chance of atomization in the air as well because you got more wet paint than you do dry paint in the air
Hey Brad, I'm following your tips on my bike. Actually I'm on the clear coat stage now (on most parts), but for the frame, there are a lot of fuck ups so I am not through with the color stage. Do I have to wait 2wks before I can begin the buffing/polishing stage? Other forums say 3-6 months to wait before it hardens. I have applied 2 passes of clear coats (1st pass, 4 coats then wait 2-3 days, then the next pass). Thanks!
+radiantDF there's no reason to wait 3-6 months that I know of. If you're using lacquer, then a month works. For this enamel I give it a week or two. Some catalyzed paints can be buffed the next day.
Thanks, man for the reply! Funny thing is, the can says Acrylic Epoxy, then what I have is Clear Lacquer (I live in the Philippines, so one of the brands I've used is RJ London Spray...Too late for me to discover that we have Krylon here). I guess, I have to wait a month for that to completely cure and buff it?
BTW, I'm contemplating whether I should still place reflective sticker on the frame. Rule is I should place the sticker then the clear coat, right? In the future, will it get peeled off or the clear coat will definitely put it in it's place :D Thanks man for help and replies!
Dude, I about died laughing when you said "oh, by the way, always wear a respirator", then u continued to paint without one!!🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Hahaha
@@BradAngove sorry, I just fixed my comment but it was supposed to say you continued to paint WITHOUT one, that's why it was so funny!! Awesome video though, made me laugh and was super helpful, never would have thought about using 2 cans at once!!! Thank you!
No you didnt lol
That was edited , he added the remark afterwards
I always wondered why he didn’t wear one, he could always do a time lapse of the spraying, the dub any comments he wants to add later. Don’t underestimate how much damage repeat exposure can do.
I absolutely love people going out of their way to help people out on their free time like this with information they think could help. 10/10
Thanks Keegan
One trick for keeping dust down, if applicable. Dampen the area your're painting in. I've been painting in a old greenhouse and I just run the water hose over the floor and walls lightly. It works wonders!
Indeed. I like to use a little spray bottle and mist the area.
@@BradAngove would running a humidifier in the area achieve the same results?
No, you actually need mist in the air to trap the dust. Increasing humidity is actually a bad thing when painting.
I tried hosing down the walls and ceiling in my living room but the water dripped into my clear coat job and the guy downstairs said he had water dripping on his forehead while he was sleeping. There was no dust though it actually works.
I use 5 cans, it’s rough.
thanks batman
+Si Dog Ducati You're welcome good citizen of gotham.
Rofl I immediately thought the exact same thing XD you beat me to it
I didn't think Batman but the actor. But same thing. But yea you do favor. And have some of the same mannerisms. You'd be a good stand in.
I thought both batman and the actor not just the appearance of Ben but ill be damned voice 2
How to dry clear coating properly? Mine just won't dry entirely. They say don't put in under the sun.
This is by far the best clear coat tutorial on all of UA-cam, subbed and liked my man. Keep up the awesome content
Thanks man. I’m glad you liked it.
Been watching your tutorials for a while now, you really know your stuff..massive help to me thanks for everything.🔥👍👍
“Spraying it with two cans. You kinda........heh, two cans”
Your delivery of that was so much funnier than the realization itself hahah
stgtr
The answer to my questions, great job of keeping it simple for all us knuckleheads
Da Wabbit Glad to be of service.
I think you are the best teacher out there Brad. You video's kick ass and are a great deal of help. Thx for taking the time out to do tutorials, AWESOME.
Thank you, I really appreciate that and I'm glad that you're finding the videos helpful.
You sir, are an invaluable part of this video business website. I have been building guitar distortions (pedals) for years and always messed up the clear coating. Not anymore though! From the bottom of my hear thank you so much! You and your channel is pure quality.
Thanks man. I’m glad you found the video helpful.
I have always had poor results when applying the clear coat….until I watched your video. Simple instructions but worked beautifully. Thank you!!!
I’m very glad to hear that
Make sure that you wet sand the product also. Your item should cure completely for about 6 days before clear coating. A good rule is that if you can still smell the paint, it has not cured.
Another good tip is to make sure that the service you're painting and your clear coat and or paint is warmed up adequately. All liquids become less viscous when warmed. When it's less viscous it will flow out and level much better. Careful though of vertical surfaces, with less viscosity also comes more chance for runs. For those of you that don't know viscosity is defined as a liquids resistance to flow. As in water is less viscous than honey.
The ambient temperature is very important, if it's 90F outside i.e. you don't need to be warming anything up. Also good to read your instructions for the recommended temperatures, depending on the temperature different hardeners can be needed. It's crazy how many variables there are with paint, i.e. if it was 20 degrees cooler you might have a different experience, can be the difference between runs etc. Painting is all about experience, but also using good paint. Use quality products and get quality results. Keep in mind not everyone is going to be able to spray paint as well as Brad, and also these spray cans work much better for small things like guitars. Not to discourage the use though.
@Jeff Webre You may want to consider using a can of catalyzed polyurethane clear coat. It is more expensive, and you will need to wear a respirator, but it provides a stronger finish. You would only need one can, as it has a nice fan cap on it. Spraymax makes one. It's available through the coastairbrush website.
I was a pro painter for 17 years of spraying lacquer. I have retired from that (disability) and I sold my spray rigs before moving to a new state. A buddy was building stomp boxes and paying for them to be pre finished and it was junk spray jobs. So I Started using Lacquer in a can (real nitro). But I can not do a tac coat. if I tried that with a Graco 990 airless sprayer it would orange peel.
I shoot on a normal coat of sealer. Sand, then a second coat, sand. Then coats of clear. Why do none of you guys ever use sanding sealer? I went from 3,000 airless spray rigs to Stew Mac Lacquer cans on metal instead of wood. I am already better than the guys selling the pedal boxes. But I still consider myself new to metal and cans.| Why no sanding sealer? Why tac coats?
Is lacquer not best for metal? I see lots of enamel. But I never see oil based lacquer sanding sealer and oil based sating or gloss to top coat it.
We don't use sanding sealer on metal because there's no need to seal it. Sealer is important for wood of course to prevent the paint from soaking into the pores, but on metal that's not an issue. Instead we deal with adhesion issues.
Essentially, instead of using sanding sealer on metal we use primer. The tack coat is just to keep the paint from running on the wetter coats because enamels and polyurethanes tend to go on in slightly heavier coats than lacquer.
They used to use lacquer on cars/metal all the time ( a very long time ago), but now there are finishes that are faster and more durable, so lacquer isn't as popular a choice anymore.
Brad Angove do you know if the spray max clear goes over acrylic paint without reacting ... I do a lot of art in acrylic paints ?
+Jacqueline Powter I've used it over automotive acrylics before. I just make sure the paint is dry before I spray the clear.
Brilliant... it does seem to be the best !
Love the dry humor, you never laugh so it really busts me up man 😂. Yes great instruction too, especially about the dry times between coats, thanks!
I would have never figured to use 2 cans.thanks for some more great tips .
Ya, it's oddly helpful haha. Thanks for watching.
Unbelievable!!! 🤩🤩😁 Thanks so much. Had been spraying a boot spoiler with 1 can of lacquer and the results were not what I wanted so I hit it lightly with 400 grit, cleaned it down and sprayed with 2 cans and what a difference. Thanks for sharing and stay safe
I’m glad it helped! Thanks for watching.
Great! Thanks so much! I've watched so many videos but found yours to be the most informative so I truly appreciate you taking the time to get back to me.
I sprayed 3 coats each on two sets of headlights with a small can of 2K with the hardner and they turned out perfect. Used up the whole can. I gave them 15 minutes flash time between coats.
Great stuff. Saving me from giving up on my "luthier" work. Greatly appreciate the "you don't have to do it like it's always been done" approach.
Thanks Ed. The instrument world is oddly resistant to change sometimes, but that doesn’t mean a little change is a bad thing.
The duel spray can method with the fans at 90° to each other was a game changer for me. Thanks man
Perpendicular fans? Do you move perpendicularly with each can?
Thank you Batman I plan to do this sometime next week
I hope it goes well for you.
So glad I watched this b4 I started spraying, I'm confident of success now. Thanks from Manchester UK.
Cheers Lewis
Bruce Wayne...
The billionaire?
Martha!
SF PV i
Two cans are you kidding?Some people have trouble spraying with one.Here is my trick.Put the spray can on a paint shaker.This will give you better atomization.Use a heat gun to warm the object being painted.Sure way to get a run is painting something cold.Finally, put your spray can in a bucket of hot water for ten minutes.I have been painting for 40 years and this always works for me.I recommend to use the 2k clear for best results.
Wheel repair
More coats "is" better. 😉
You had it right the first time. More coats are one as a whole, being compared to less coats as a whole (one thing compared to another thing). It does sound awkward I agree, but it's one of those tricky parts of our language. I thought you'd appreciate the clarification since you stopped to think about it. Not being a snarky troll, I just find we can be useful to each other in a productive way. Great tutorial! Thanks! 🙏
That’s an interesting way of looking at it. Thank you for the clarification.
So, I tried the "Double Can" technique on laying down clear for a bumper I am fixing. I did 1 pass across the top of the bumper (tack coat), using Rustoleum Clear Enamel, and INSTANTLY got a curtain of clear runs. I will sand it down and give it another shot using just 1 can and see what happens.
Your tack coat should be lighter than your other coats. Make sure your can is well shaken, and move it more quickly to avoid that problem.
Brad Angove thanks! I actually tried it again tonight, and discovered that I was spraying too close to the bumper. I kept the cans slightly farther back from the bumper. It seemed odd, but it worked great!
I'm glad to hear it. The speed at which you move the can, and the distance that you hold it from the piece, are the two main elements that control how heavy your coat it. I cover it in my demo video on how to get an even coat of paint with spray cans.
Probably 1 of the funniest how to videos I’ve ever seen 😂
Just here too watch him 😂🤷🏻♀️❤️
You’re a lifesaver. No other video helped me like this and i’m so grateful!!!!
I’m glad I could help.
@@BradAngove I sprayed some paint on my car but it has orange peel (i haven’t clear coated yet). Should i clearcoat then sand it down or sand it down the clearcoat?
I’d sand smooth before clear coat unless it’s metallic.
Look at the big brain on Brad! 🤣 Lmao. Actually, that's a really good idea about using 2 cans at once. It's never crossed my mind to even try that.
Hopefully you find it useful haha.
What a great two can spray master. Thanks for your channel. Not easy to get use to two cans at the same time
It takes a bit of practice, but it can speed things up nicely when you get the hang of it.
There's something very important he forgot to tell you...Don't cross the streams...Total Protonic Reversal could happen...
Hahaha
It’s a joke. But, you really shouldn’t cross the streams. You can overlap them, but if you try to actually cross them they will interfere with each other’s atomization.
This is true with urinals as well..
the code official r/cursedcomments
Perfect show and tell. Just what I needed and yes you have much talent with paint. I am somewhat envious
Thank you. I’m glad you found the demo helpful.
Hes the Clearcoater Gotham deserves but not the one it needs right now
There's something badass about having Bruce Wayne/Batman teach you how to paint properly. No wonder the Tumbler looked so good! Excellent video!
Thanks. Join me next time when I show how to do the matte black batmobile finish!
Thank you, Batman
You're welcome citizen of Gotham.
Brad Angove seriously. finished last night, used this technique while touching up clear on my car roof- massive surface area! completely nailed it after the sad little single can coat I attempted beforehand. You're the hero Gotham deserves
I'm very glad to hear that it worked out for you.
beckhead25 how did you do it on the roof of the car it's wide area
Sroor9001 trial and error really, starting on one side, spraying side to side starting from outside and going to centre, running to the other side of the car and resuming from middle, even strokes from side to side until i reached the other outer side. That way I kept the layers even (not to mention using a lot more cans than I expected)
Great tutorial as always! Thank you for taking your time to share your technique and best practices!
Thanks Jeff; I’m glad you liked it.
Your tack coat looked suspiciously similar to your other coats, in terms of the lightness of the application of the toucans. :p
That is kind of hard with a can, but with airbrushing clear coat is a necessity!
Sir much appreciated it it did help a lot!!
I always had good luck with plain ol' Krylon, which is half the price of the catalyzed stuff. Got a very acceptable high gloss. So of course, it promptly disappeared from all my local stores ...
I always hated krylon. Durability and compatibility issues plagued me when I used it.
Gee, I've had exactly the opposite experience; used it on guitars, motorcycle frames and even engine cylinders, good durability, good workability, though I couldn't speak for compatibility, never tried using it with anything else. Now, Rustoleum gave me all the aggravations you mention, and more!
Fair enough haha.
Yep, "different strokes."
I started working with rustolyum and really learned how to sand out drips, runs and sags.
Krylon is much better for my beginners skills
Hi Brad, I refurb electronic gear, i do a quick sand to rough of surface, then spray paint the surface. What do you reccomend i use for sealing that spray paint finish? Because i don't want paint to come off if electronic item i moved and hits a wall or scrapes against a surface. I want the paint job to be able to sustain bump, scratches etc. So what do you reccomend i use to seal the spray paint? Has to be something in a can as i don't have paint spray guns, etc. Thanks beforehand for any input. John
Enamel is pretty hard and can often be found in clear cans.
“Heh, Toucans (two cans)”
instant subscribe
Just follow your nose!
I’m no painter but this is what I’m doing. I have a 2005 Paint match 122/200 on my Harley Wide Glide and I changed out the thin front spoke tire and installed a 09 Fatboy chrome wheel and fender I’m trying to replicate the Pearl Yellow with black flames with outlined red trim. My goal is when finished I won’t be able to feel the flame lines with the clear coat I bought raffle can base coat with mid coat Pearl yellow and vivid black along with the Firefighter red paint pen for around the flame and plan on laying all colors before I clear coat entire fender. So anything I should do other than prep first?
Brad remember that too many coats effects the tone as well, too much and the tone goes away...
+Tech of Tomorrow I assume you're referring to painting a guitar or instrument and not a plastic panel haha. That's definitely true for acoustic instruments, and while this technique will help one to get a better coat, it will be important to limit the number of coats. It's debatable whether more paint will have a noticeable effect on an electric guitar. I don't think any one would be able to tell the difference in sound with the amount of extra paint that you could conceivably use by employing this technique.
Please provide proof. You can't. Other than opinion.
In addition, as Brad noted, quality also comes with practice. I've had to redo coats (including waiting for initial curing - approx 4 - 7 days depending on product, re-cleaning, re-sanding, etc.) many times. I've also had small jobs become big messes either due to perfectionism or rushing. Take your time, be patient, and let the paint do what it must to cure. I also agree with the 5 - 10 minute waiting period between coats, but, as noted in other comments, account for where you're painting - airflow, ambient dust, temperatures, humidity. Sometimes experience is what you get when you least want it, but patience and being willing to be "bad" before becoming proficient are keys to succeeding.
You look kinda like David Giuntoli from Grimm. Time to brush up on them acting chops, bruh! Thanks for the video!
Thank you sir - will help greatly as I'm trying to get into car modelling and been afraid of the CLEARCOAT step!
Are you referring to small model cars?
You’re very talented but that doesn’t help with the harmful fumes of the spray paint. Please wear mask also!
Thanka foe the info! I'm gonna buy some wide spray caps and use this type of clear, I was about to order 2k but you just conviced me to use a standard 1k clear can thats easily available just about everywhere.
Well, 2K definitely has its benefits. Have a look at my video on 1k vs 2K vs 2x clear coat.
After watching this I got a proper gloss finish on a alloy wheel. Unlike the other 2 I’ve already done. Nice work 👍
Glad I could help.
I like the way you look at things . Puts a whole new perspective on a goal we're all trying to achieve . Who hasn't sprayed it again a second time because we weren't happy with our first attempt .
I have been painting for 25 years (as a hobbits, air brushes, detail/jamb gun, spray cans, etc). I have never seen the two can method before. I would have laughed, until I saw the results! That is really ingenious. Maybe not for everyone (hard to get the right pattern at first), but well done!!!
Thanks, I'm glad you like it. I find it particularly useful for doing high volume work, but it does take a bit of coordination and practice. I certainly wouldn't advise it for people who haven't mastered working with one can first.
Great video Bard. whats the difference between this clear coat and a poly based clear coat? I didnt see you sanding between coat , does it not require this? how long do you wait between coats? Is it good for wood as well? ( I have this clear coat and still havent used it )
It's just a different compound. You don't need to sand between coats if you re-coat within the recast window so that the coats can bond chemically. If you wait beyond that you need to let it dry and sand lightly. I waited 10-15 minutes between coats.
@Brad Angove - I like the 2 cans for the clear coat. What about using 2 cans for your base?
That’s doable as well. I do that in larger surfaces.
@John Doe I'm glad to hear that you found it helpful.
Ive sprayed like u did man and ive had the paint look like crap and seperate y is that not letting the paint dry long enough? Or too much clear coat?
What do you mean separate? Did it peel off?
Thanks, have you ever used acrylic lacquer on a guitar. I'm looking for something "less plasticky" than poly and canned nitro is no available in Canada...
I have. It can certainly work. Also, you should be able to get canned Mohawk nitro through Richelieu in Canada. I’m Canadian.
@@BradAngove thanks for your awnsers and videos!!!
Good stuff. I am a maintenance engineer and have commercial no parking signs to put up outside. Two are plastic, one is aluminum and the last is aluminum or steel. All preprinted or painted. My question is whether it would be a good idea to clear-coat them for greater longevity and durability with respect to the elements. I have both spray and brush applicable products. Any advice would be helpful. Thank you for these helpful videos.
In order to clear coat them you would need to sand the existing paint a bit and clean it to allow the new clear coat to stick. It can be challenging to paint plastic and metal directly without the right primers too. It may be risky to try to clear coat them now.
Well done. This is the first time i've actually heard someone explain this done this way aside from myself. I use basically the same method (less a can) and especially the 3 coat limit because when done the right way you just really don't need any more. It just can't net any better results for you so why waste the time or product. I have had some really amazing results with these spray cans. I still find myself shocked when I finish a job with 3 progressive coats of this clear coat and look over the results. I only wish I knew this 2 years ago the first time i did my headlights haha. I learned this method on my own and now would never do it any other way. I recently used this technique over rustoleum lens tint (the 1 and only) on my head and tail lights and let me tell you.... They finished flawless and look store bought. That lens tint has a seriously BAD rap but its just not being done right. Anyway, thanks for the video and nice job.
+Jason Powers I'm glad the system is working well for you. Thank you for watching and for your comment.
Great video. I never considered using toucan's to spray before. I've since moved on to 2K clear but the next time I am doing a cost conscience job I'm going to try this method.
Thanks Jimmy. I don’t know if a toucan can help you though haha. Unless you’re trying to find fruit loops.
thanks for sharing, let me ask you, would you use this technique for a bicycle? and how many coats would you recommend for such task? u know bikes take a beating with weather on our driving them around . i know there are some videos here on bikes secifically but its confusing so looking for a second opinion, i did one at the end of July, followed one tutorial to the letter and the paint just chios so easy it hurts, I did only 2 coats and waited at least 7 days after painted to apply the clear. thank you
Bicycles generally have smaller surface areas, so using two cans probably wouldn't be very helpful. I would probably do 3 coats, but I don't think that the one coat difference would help much. Did you sand your bike before painting it?
Nice job for budget paint job nice work thanks
Thanks
man you crack me uup with your videos.. I don't understand how these kids get on here and are immediately like a professional reporter with a script and all this editing and shiit. you are real, jyst filming yourself talk and its hilarious your train of thought all the tiime with cuts and moving around.. don't be offended man it's refreshing to see real people still. keep it up
I'm not offended. I've been too lazy to script anything since day one. The cuts are for pacing, but I'm also too lazy to learn better editing techniques haha.
yea man, it actually works well I thinks.. I like it cause that is exactly how I would do it but I'm too lazy to even film myself paint anything
+Mc Key Haha fair enough.
If u had that board standing up, would u start from top to bottom or the same procedure u used from down to top? Thanks for the video.
I would start at the top. I started from closer to me here because of the angle I hold the cans at. I want to be able to paint over the overspray from the cans. On a standing piece, the overspray falls downward, and I want to be able to paint over that.
Thanks for your comment, I want to clear coat some headlights after I sanded them down. They look pretty good, but I"m afraid of fucking it up with the clear coat, never done this before. Thanks for the feedback and video. Keep them coming.
Thanks for watching. If something goes wrong and you put a run in the clear or something that is still fixable, so don't get too stressed over it haha.
Many thanks Brad for this and very helpful and excellent videos.
Thanks John. Glad you liked it.
Hi Brad I have Rust-oleum lacquer clear coat spray paint how should I spray the clear coat, example apply tac coat wait ten minutes and put second coat wait another 10 minutes and put third coat. Does that sound about righ. THANKS
That sounds exactly right.
I stumbled on this because I’m planning to do a DIY project on a table surface, I’d like to ask if it’s possible to use a 2K clear coat on a wood stain surface finish? Great and informative video I would say.
Yes, it’s possible. Just make sure you have the right safety equipment. 2K will kill you.
Thank you for the advice..
Hi Brad, Thanks for the Video. I have bought some High gloss Black paint can, but it doesnt dry glossy, do I have to put a clearcoat over the top to get the shine? thanks
Hi Tim. My first guess is that you're probably not applying it quite heavy enough. Either that or the surface it's going onto isn't quite smooth. You could sand it lightly and apply another medium-wet coat, but it's probably more advisable to use a gloss clear coat. I would sand it lightly at 800 grit to give the clear something to grip onto for adhesion, and then go over it with a few coats of gloss clear making sure that the clear coat is the same type of paint so that it doesn't react.
Hey thanks for the tutorial! Just wondering what brand and finish you would suggest for a kids guitar?
A kids guitar would be finished in the same way as a full-sized one. Unless your worried about them chewing on it?
Thanks dude you’re information is great straight forward to the point. Thanks again 💪👍
Glad I could help
HI, i dont know if you check videos this old, but I want to Spray Varnish my Trick or Treat Studious Good Guy Doll's face. Do you have any tips for this process on a "much smaller surface."
Use one can and spray lightly. Variable surfaces like that are susceptible to paint pooling.
@@BradAngove I was thinking about that. Like maybe an arch while spraying as not to be too close at certain points or mounting the head and doing a 360 spray at the appropriate distance.
Is there anyway to go back if it does pool?
Not really except carefully removing the extra paint I suppose
Hi brad. How long do I leave the cour to dry before I do the clear coat?
It depends on the circumstances, but usually a day or two. Then sand lightly with 800 grit before adding clear.
Brad Angove thanks man.
You’re welcome.
Hi Brad, thanks for helping out. My base coat is a metallic acrylic 1K paint (duplicollor), over which I plan to use a 2K clear coat . Do I need to dry and scuff the base coat before applying clear? I'm a bit worried about scuffing up the metallic.
The 2k will bind well enough. I think you should be fine.
Would you happen to know if the Clear Gloss Cover keeps in glitter? Im doing a wood project with glitter paint and I am trying to find a glossy cover to finish it off! Thanks
It does. Take a look at my video on the nebula sparkle paint job for a demonstration - it can seal in quite a bit.
Ive used rustoleum painters touch gloss on my kitchen cabinets. Unfortunatley they scratch pretty easily. Would you recommend I use rustoleum clear spray paint to put a protective coat on there?
Or use a polyurethane product to protect it?
If the polyurethane brush or foam on then would you say oil based or water based?
Thanks in advance.
The rustoleum clear should help. It will take a solid month to harden fully though.
Stonecoat resin (epoxy), the acrylic paint has been drying for a week now so I'll lightly sand it and then pour the resin. With stonecoat resin I can use a brush to lightly apply, sand and apply another coat. Does that make sense to you? I don't want the resin 1/4" deep, I just want the depth and shine. Thanks Brad!
That totally makes sense. Stonecoat is good stuff. It should look nice afterward.
I have a question if you have the time --- my concern is getting everything correct and then making a mistake in the final clear coat. I will be hand painting on top of spray painted enamel on a metal enclosure. My concern is avoiding that reptilian, scale-like crackle that can happen. In the past I have had smooth surfaces from clear coating on *plastics* but I have also had it "scab up" on me more times than I like. Since I do not know what causes this I am unsure on how to even go about preventing it. Do you have any advice? I hope I was clear and thanks in advance!
Take a look at my video on why your paint is crazing.
I must have missed it --- will do. I can say that I got some more "crazing" and it was the result of moving the recently sprayed piece out of dusts way but into a warmer area. Thanks again! :)
Great idea the two can thing, I will use this and I like your yack, yack, yack. Thanks for the great spray can paint trick for large areas.
Thanks for watching. I'm glad you like the technique.
Brad if you only can help here. Last week desided to refurbish my wife's car rusty wheels. I cleaned them with wire brush and sandpaper as mush as I could and then used rust inhibitor consisting mostly of phosphoric acid.Brushed and left overnight to react properly. Next day washed the wheels with soapy water , dried them and sprayed with acid primer - 3 coats 10 min apart and then after an hour with three coats satin black again 10 minutes apart. All good for the first two three days but then noticed that some white residue is popping out through the top paint and the surface is getting rough. Washed the wheels a few times but the white stuff / stain comes back. Any advise?
I'm sorry; unfortunately I don't have any experience with those paints and don't know much about them. I have no idea what went wrong there. My best guess is you might have a delamination issue because you waited an hour between paint types instead of a day, and presumably didn't sand in between.
Hello! What if the clear coat keeps on cracking? I did a tac coat which sorta looked like orange peel. Then I tried to apply a 2nd coat that was more "wet" but within a few minutes it just cracks. There would be some areas where it wouldn't crack and it's smooth, but it's not uniform. I spray in one constant direction across before going back. I was clear coating some headlights since I had sanded off the oxidized layer. What I ended up doing after several attempts is to apply several layers of light coats, then hitting it with 2000 grit before polishing it a bit. I've done this before and it wasn't anywhere near as difficult to do as it was this time. Is it better to have the clear coat applied to a surface that's as level as possible with the ground?
It being level with the ground shouldn’t matter. What matters is the type of paint, what you’re painting over, and temperature and humidity.
Hi i pray my guitar with laquer base paint it is okie if i spray it with poly'd finish?
If you let it dry fully, for a long time, then yes you can finish it with polyurethane.
I'm wanting to clear coat my plastic scooter hood. It's already somewhat shiny, but due to age, is not shiny like new. Do I need to sand it 1st.? Or just clean it and apply the clear coats?
You would need to sand it first. Have you considered just polishing it instead?
@@BradAngove I tried polishing and that didn't produce a high gloss. I went ahead and just used SEM Gloss and it turned out nice.. Thank you for the great video!!
Glad I could help.
good video and no bluff and he clearly shows dist particles on it.... they can be polished out AFTER it is well dried !
I just posted a video with some tips on how to avoid them actually.
hey man great video. what would be the best way to clear coat a rusty surface? customer wants a rusty finish on a steel table. thanks
That's a fun one. I would try to get it as clean as possible without removing the rust, then apply a thin coat of adhesion promoter. Paint has trouble sticking to raw metal, which is why a primer is usually important. For a clear job, that's generally not an option, so I use adhesion promoter instead. Then use your clear. If you want it to look as natural as possible, a matter clear is probably your best bet.
awesome thanks. over seen videos of guys using adhesion promoters only as a clear coat. would you advise against that?
Well, it's not clear coat. Adhesion promoter is essentially just paint glue to help paint stick to surface that it would normally have trouble adhering to. It won't protect against further corrosion, or give a shiny look, or really serve any purpose if you don't then put some kind of paint over it.
The spray can you used seems to be the same stuff I used years ago. There's a lot of clear coat in that can!
The only thing is that when you use this (the Rustoleum 2X gloss), the paint underneath has to be ABSOLUTELY DRY. I think I found out that a week is the safe point (for drying) before you use the top gloss. If the paint isn't dry, the clear coat reacts with the paint and can melt plastic (which is what I'm using the clear coat for to top off). I've had this happen between Rustoleum product (Rustoleum spraypaint for plastic and the Rustoleum 2X clear gloss) sprayed on the same small sample of plastic.
I've used Dupli-Color and as long as you keep within the line (use all Dupli-Color from adhesion promoter to the clear gloss), it doesn't react. The problem is I don't think I like the way the Dupli-Color gloss looks AND it leaves a rough texture which is another thing. It makes me wonder if I'm doing something wrong or if the Dupli-Color gloss is not good for my project. The top coat doesn't feel smooth unless you sand it which as I understood it you shouldn't have to do for a proper gloss coat!!!!
It's a shame because I've had good results with Dupli-Color in the past but apparently the Dupli-Color gloss coat sucks for my use!
I think I'm going to go back to the Rustoleum 2X Clear Coat and taking the advice and get a second can (which I may need to get anyway; I'm getting low on what I have left). This may give me a more even coat on my plastic case project. In the meantime, I'm gonna have to wet-sand for the MILLIONTH TIME the stupid damn case but I want to get this project right and have it dried off and finished hopefully by the middle of June, end of June. I'm reconditioning and painting (in a new gloss color) an old joystick case (20-plus year-old Dreamcast Agetec joystick case) and spending way too much time on repairing this thing!
I’ll have a video coming out soon on how to get a beautiful finish with duplicolor (it involves using different clear), but for now you should take a look at my video on how to get a professional looking clear coat with spray cans. It’s over rustoleum.
@@BradAngove I think I'm going with Rustoleum. It's more economical and in the case of the finish I've liked the results I've gotten with the Rustoleum better than what I'm seeing with the Dupli-Color. The clear coat/gloss of the Dupli-Color just isn't working for me. Either I got a bad can, I don't know what I'm doing, or it's just junk. Probably a bit of all that.
What about rounded surfaces like a bike frame? I have been painting them for years and I always just try to keep the can moving and trying not to slow or stop (both moving the cans or pressing the nozzle). I see multiple people say that you should dust the paint and do 4-5 coats. Then wet sand and polish it. I have never been unhappy with my final results with my method. But, I have had a couple tiny runs or "clumps" but they aren't big so I don't tend to worry about it. The frame I am about to paint is probably the last BMX bike seeing I'm 42 in April and it has a lifetime warranty. But I want it to be as perfect as I can get it.
Thanks in advance for any help, I'm using spray paint incase it was in question
+M Davis For surfaces like that there's no need to use two cans, especially if you're getting the occasional run. Don't dust it on though. There aren't very many paint types where dusting it on is a good idea.
Brad Angove thanks and I subscribed great stuff
I'm extremely new to spay paint jobs.
Is there any rule that I cannot use *"too high"* of grit sandpaper?
Current I have a few 1000 grit sandpaper laying around in my house. Would that be a problem if I were to use it?
+SIedgeHammer83 Too high for what exactly? You generally use different grits for different parts of the job.
+Brad Angove Polishing out imperfections.
No, 1000 is not too high. I usually go up to about 5000 for that.
Hi its me again. What kind of clear coat should I use? (I have MontanaGOLD 400ml Varnish Gloss) its for a xbox controller after I have painted it with auto air colors. and is putting a bigger nozzle on the can the same as 2 cans?and im having a problem with what looks like cracking is that coz im putting it on to heavy or not letting it flash of or both?i have got the painting down but I really need some help whit the clear coating.would love to show you what I have painted so far from what I have picked up from your vids.thanks for all the help so far tom
Hi Tom. If you want to show me what you've got you can send me the pictures on Facebook using the link in the description. I would love to check them out, and could maybe help more if I was what was wrong.
The Montana Gold should work fine, but I can't say for sure since I've never used it.
You are probably right about putting it on too heavy and possibly not letting it flash long enough. How long are you waiting between coats?
What's the best spray can clear coat particularly for outside metal? One that's non yellowing
Have a look at my video on how to get a professional looking clear coat with spray cans.
what kind did you use. Can't see the can very well with all the movement in your hands.
Thanks.....really liked this video.
This was Rustoleum crystal clear.
Anything different on a non flat surface? I'm doing a truck grill and having trouble with over spray i think. Can't get the whole thing glossy.
I actually have a video where I painted a grill. These kinds of spray paint aren’t really appropriate for that application.
OK, I'll look for that. Fair enough. It's not even a whole grill, but still a pretty good size piece. Thanks for responding.
Hi, can u go straight from colour to clear or do u need to wait days for the colour to fully cure? Thanks
It depends, but generally you can go straight to it.
@2MinuteSoup The clear coating is the same, but there are other steps involved in getting paint to bond to plastic properly. I have a video about how to do that.
Bruce you forgot to link that video
Neat 2 handed technique. The ol' John Woo 2 gun inspiration. Well done.
Thanks
hey i have a older truck that is rattle can camo painted but they did a really good job and i wanted to clear coat it with a can any suggestions the job is a bit rough as its been a bit weathered.
One of my recent ask brad videos is about what I think the best spray can clear coat is right now. That might be a good option.
Thank you, Brad.
I am planning to finish couple of cabinets built from ply, and wanted just a clear finish to seal and protect.
I went to HD last night and got cans of 2x clear.... Hope it will stick to sended and clean plywood?
It should stick, but it probably won't leave you with a smooth finish on sanded plywood. I suggest you consider grain filling it, but even if you choose not to do that, a clear sealer is probably a better way to start than going straight to enamel clear coat.
Nice video and very informative... Can I use that clear spray over a gold metallic dupicolor car paint? Thank you.
You can, but you would be better off with a can of 2k like I used in my video on how to get a professional looking clear coat with spray cans.
I used acrylic lacquer duplicolor on a guitar body...would acrylic lacquer or acrylic enamel clearcoat be better for a harder finish
They’re actually weirdly similar in terms of durability. Acrylic enamel should be harder though.
@@BradAngove i bought a can of spraymax 2K...Will that be ok to spray on top of the home made wipe on polyurethane that i put on the back of the guitar. i mixed gloss poly with paint thinner and put many thin coats on.
It will probably be ok. That’s definitely an unusual approach though.
hi brad how soon after you paint should you apply the clear coat? should the paint be complete dry like 24 hours or 15 minute like the time between paint coats thanks your video's are very helpful
+john murano Either of those can be correct. If you have laid down several coats of wet paint in a row, it's probably best to let it dry 24 hours, sand lightly, and clear coat. If you've only put down one or two in the last session, it's reasonable to just wait 10 minutes or so and then put down a couple coats of clear.
awesome video, thanks for all the good tips. The double spray cans was nicely done and a great example. I have had such a hard time with clear coating I hardly bother anymore with it and just repaint every year with flat colors.
+Mel Smith I'm glad you liked the video. Clear coating can be pretty finicky. Even with tricks like this it takes some practice to get it right consistently.
What I do with my scale 124th and 125th plastic model cars is I get a good clear coat from Tamia or something like that and I have even used that 2K clear stuff and the 2x stuff and many other types of clear coat perfect match Rust-Oleum clear enamel finish all kinds of different clear coats and every time I've noticed is if you can spray it as wet as possible before it runs the shinier it gets when it dries and you got less work when you wet sand and buff because it comes out with super shiny like glass and hardly any runs or any orange coat as long as you spray it wet enough that's the trick even with your base coat you spray it on as wet as you can on your third coat that way it's smooth it doesn't have time to dry in the air and then stick to the object or painting and cause to be rough with orange peel. And what I described and that's with enamel and acrylic works for me but also your climate you live in has a big big factor in how shiny your paint job is and how you need to spray it on. Yes he is correct the figure of the spray pattern you can get the better because it's less streaks in it I've used two cans before even before watching this video and it makes a better finish I'll even use two cans on my scale models I build just to get a smooth finish what I have to do two passes and less chance of atomization in the air as well because you got more wet paint than you do dry paint in the air
Hey Brad, I'm following your tips on my bike. Actually I'm on the clear coat stage now (on most parts), but for the frame, there are a lot of fuck ups so I am not through with the color stage. Do I have to wait 2wks before I can begin the buffing/polishing stage? Other forums say 3-6 months to wait before it hardens. I have applied 2 passes of clear coats (1st pass, 4 coats then wait 2-3 days, then the next pass). Thanks!
+radiantDF there's no reason to wait 3-6 months that I know of. If you're using lacquer, then a month works. For this enamel I give it a week or two. Some catalyzed paints can be buffed the next day.
Thanks, man for the reply! Funny thing is, the can says Acrylic Epoxy, then what I have is Clear Lacquer (I live in the Philippines, so one of the brands I've used is RJ London Spray...Too late for me to discover that we have Krylon here). I guess, I have to wait a month for that to completely cure and buff it?
+radiantDF that's probably your safest bet, yes.
BTW, I'm contemplating whether I should still place reflective sticker on the frame. Rule is I should place the sticker then the clear coat, right? In the future, will it get peeled off or the clear coat will definitely put it in it's place :D Thanks man for help and replies!
+radiantDF if it's a reflective sticker it might make more sense to just put it on after the clear work is done.