It's a universal Froken. Lay some tile and plan to rip it up to get the hang of tiling ( buy some cheap stuff ). Learn to solder copper with scrap pieces. Weld scrap before trying it on valuable pieces. Practice your free kicks on the training ground before trying it in the Champion's League finals.
Stumbled across this and you ANSWERED a question about my current job that I've searched and searched for with no answer regarding metallic paint and sanding....THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU
Light and heavy are a function of two main variables speed of your hand and distance. The slower your passes the thicker the coat. The closer your passes are the thicker the coat. The most important thing you need to do is read and follow the directions on the can. I tried a brand I had never used before. The paints I was used to said 10 to 12 inches from the surface to be painted. The new paint said 6 to eight inches. It is a rapid cure paint dries to touch in 15 minutes, handle in one hour, recoat anytime. I sprayed too far from the surface, ended up with paint acne, thousands of tiny bumps. Paint partially cured in flight, too thick to lay down. Currently waiting for paint to cure completely so I can sand it smooth and repaint. You channel is a great resource for people that are willing to learn. Keep up the good work.
+MrPolicekarim it should. Smaller surfaces will require you to spray carefully and lightly. If you're spraying plastic, start with adhesion promoter. There's nothing exclusive to models that changes how the paint works.
I like how you make effort to reply to those comments and questions regarding your videos... seems you're genuine to help others regarding these matter... respect to you and looking forward fof your more videos
Your videos are very helpful! Mixing differnt paint types with compatible clear coats is my weak point in my learning process. When I look at a spray paint can (Krylon, Rustoleum, etc) , often it will not clearly state what type of paint that it is (enamel?). That is one difficulty I face. I wish there were a visual chart which showed the dos and don'ts regarding compatibility of paints/clear coats, in detail. It would be good to print it out and hang it near my work stations. Once I learn more, maybe I'll make one.
Dude, I mess up every time when I spray paint. But now I am going to attempt to paint my new Unlimited Desert Racer body, and I am so thankful I watched this video! I have no patience and have never ever thought about sanding! Thanks soo soooo much!
I always over sand not sure why I go bare metal then prime, sand, paint and runs. Whenever I tried sipping a run I wish I didn’t. Always looked horrible and then trying to sand it smooth. I believe I shouldn’t be allowed near tools.
All excellent tips, Brad. I find, in my experience, that the biggest mistake most people make, me included, is getting into a hurry and trying to rush things. I had to basically train myself to slow down and take my time. We (I) often forget that the last 5% of your work will get 95% of the attention. We get a project to the point of finishing it (which is the first thing people notice) and start taking shortcuts, trying to hurry the process along. I have to force myself to remember that the finish, no matter what type it is, is going to do what it's designed to do in the amount of time it needs to do it, and there's not a lot I can do to change that. I have to constantly keep in mind that a week is going to pass whether I'm waiting on a finish to cure, or I'm trying to fix something I should have just left alone to begin with. READ and FOLLOW the directions - you don't know more than the people who made the finish you're using. You can't know more than they do - they made it. They've done the R&D. Take their advice. Still, I have to force myself to wait the 72 hours needed to let a coat cure before I can sand and recoat. I don't have to like it, but I do have to do it. Thanks for the video!
is 72 hours an end all be all spray paint curing time? Some I hear 5-7 days to gas out, others it's 30 days with "The new type spray cans," whatever that means. My wheels had to go back on the car 16 hours after I "finished" painting yesterday; was going to wait until after the weekend to wash the car and wheels, polish and then seal them, no clearcoat.
EhK47 Follow the tech sheet for the paint. If you're using spray cans, follow the directions. If you get no help there, call or email the paint company. They should have a tech line
72 hours is not a hard and fast rule. Some spray paints cure quickly, others technically don't cure at all. I can't say for sure with the information I've been given, but likely I would avoid pressure washing your wheels for the next 2 weeks. You should probably be able to polish by now unless you used lacquer.
Great vid, Brad! The number 1 thing that's helped me with enamels is curing time. Enamel sprays sometimes get a bad rap concerning durability. When I called Rustoleum to "complain" I was told enamels typically take 6 to 8 weeks to cure to full hard. I tested this on a toolbox restoration, waiting a full 8 weeks before putting it in service. I have to say I can't chip the paint even if I try. It's also super resistant to cleaners and most solvents. I used Rustoleum Hammered spray in case anyone is wondering. Primed the bare steel substrate with acid etch primer, followed by filling primer and wet block sand to 800 grit and finished with 3 wet coats of the Hammered finish. All Rustoleum products. (I have a Rustoleum factory a few miles from me).
I've never tried while it was wet, but I've tried sanding and found that it never fully dried / cured, where it is basically gummy. What a PITA. I thought spray paint was supposed to dry fast, but I've had thick spots never fully cure a week later and not sand properly.
Before I painted my first guitar, (A kit) I went and bought a 4ft length of 2x12 from home depot. I then cut it into 4 equal sections (Making each section approximately the size of a typical Strat or tele) and treated each section as if it were my "guitar", sealing, sanding, spraying, etc. as if I were painting my guitar. When I got a section that looked like I wanted my guitar to look, I knew I was ready.
Very informative video! Straight forward and best of all!? No Bull! Thank you for getting to the point and NOT slamming the viewers with all your tricks in video editing, terrible HIPHOP music in the background and forcing us the viewers to sit through 10 minutes of your history and background. THANK YOU Brad!! :)
I used BEHR Aerosol Enamel Paint on my car rims. Painted with rustoleum 2 years ago. Painting in my basement. First 2 coats went on fine. 2 rims in 1 afternoon. Went to put 3rd coat on the next morning, it alligatored with in seconds on 100% of each rim. It looks amazing and I want to recreate it on the other 2 but I do not know what I did nor how to recreate it. The paint on the 2nd and 3rd coats came from the same spray can.
Same thing I'm doing!! And when I googled my question, his video was one of the ones recommended to me. And I'm very glad I clicked. Extremely helpful. 😊
cant thank you enough for these videos. im in the middle of painting a guitar for the first time..got a run on the side and wasent sure what to do about it. now i know its not the end of the world i can breathe again lol keep making videos. extremely helpful.
To my dismay, I've made a couple of these mistakes. But those weren't the worst mistakes. The absolute worst mistake I've made is... impressively bad. Doing rally stripes on a guitar, offset and going onto the front bevel. Took me (more than ) a few tries to get the angle just right, get the lines parallel, and straight. Had the guitar looking sweet! Clear coat, polish, nice. Went to assemble and... I probably had about 1/16" of paint on the guitar body. Which chipped (nasty chips!), and the p'ups had to be tapped into their cavities (yay more chips!). Now I've disassembled (was only partially assembled), and I'm back at square one. My lesson learned is - sand it down, sand off the mistake, don't just paint over and build up. My laziness before caused more work and grief later. (it's worth mentioning that the sanding starts tomorrow, buying the rotary sander today)
I'm sorry to hear that Tom. Painting over mistakes is a risky game unfortunately, and the more paint that goes on, the more that can go wrong in many cases.
I would add another which is giving the can a really good shake, and shake often. That was a mistake I made especially when you are painting with metallic paint.
Hello, Brad, I have learned a ton from your videos about the art of spraypainting and really appreciate it! Related to this, I have a question. Sometimes, when I am spraypainting, particularly a plastic object which I desire to paint different parts of it using different colors, it will require me to tape over the first color I've already sprayed on, so I can subsequently spray on an additional color without getting any of the second color spray on the one already painted (I'm painting some outdoor porch chairs that has fabric seating for the first color) and a heavy plastic framing for the second color. The question involves the best tape to use over the first / just sprayed color - as I will only leave the tape on long enough for the second color's coats to dry to the touch. Is Frog Tape "Delicate Surface" the best option - or is there a better option? I realize I could learn to be more patient (wife says, "yeah, right!" LOL) and wait until the first color has truly hardened several days. Thanks so much!
Paint splatter from cans is a problem I don't seem to avoid - some say it's not shaking the can enough and it's often cold where I live like well below the recommended painting temp.. Nice tips..
for some strange reason ive been binge watching spray painting tips and such, this is the only one i havent been mad at! just good basic tips for anybody, nothing that could lead people wrong like "only use white base" though i will say, experiment using "non-compatible" paints together, it can lead to very cool things!
one i really love, i go with Rustolium hammered base with a metallic automotive top applied cold (sub 40F) and extra heavy while the base is wet so it all flows, a great bio-mech feel to it and hardens up very well but cure time is weeks due to the thickness of the paint, and TY for the reply!
+jon lawrence thanks for the tip. I like doing that technique but with a light coat of metallic black over hammered silver. It gets little pin holes in it. Looks pretty cool. I actually was going to have a video coming out in it soon.
Not what I was looking for . But I must say you are about the best tutorial speaker I've seen on youtube. To the point, concise and great relaxed mannerism. Too bad the information I often go for has speakers who cannot get their point across. Either poor video, WRONG answers, garbled speech (often from recording) or just become redundant. Very Good job Brad. I'm impressed.
I am planning on repainting a wrought iron porch railing with posts. It has lots of, but somewhat light, rust spots all about. It's 'leaf / ivy' design is too attractive to give up, but hand cleaning these rust spots with steel wool/vinegar wash or wire brushes on its very intricate design will be very time extensive. I had used a 'rust reformer' about 10 years ago which worked but left it black. Which I don't mind since I'm repainting it anyway (It's white now & I like it as such) That said, the new rust reformer they have now doesn't turn black, but also doesn't work. I was hoping to find some ideas to get this project to a good start with a years to come equally good results. Sand blasting may be a good idea for the very few 'bigger' spots (1/4" at largest) but hardly the way to go on the whole porch (60' x 8'). Think if I sprayed on the newer rust reformer and paint over it with quality oil based paint will suffice? How would you do it?
I think you would need to worry about it spreading under the paint if you tried that. Have you considered a wire brush or soft wire wheel on a drill for generally scuffing and removal? Then an anti-rust primer etc.
Wire brushing combined with a dremel wire wheel is still at my most foremost thought. But as I said, it's a long and fairly tall iron porch surround. Making it very time consuming regardless of how light the dots of rust. The seven 'support' posts are 8" hollow squares each with an intricate leaf and ivy design. Getting inside the square would take an extension on either brush or wire wheel. In fact, I started a small section to time myself. It took (me) 45 min to hand wire a 2' X 42" section. And that was a straight away section with full both side access. I dread the 'hollow' four sided posts. Time is one thing. To do a redundant task ever so slowly while squatting, standing, kneeling kind of makes me shiver in thoughts of extreme muscle & joint stiffness. Where are the groups of boy scouts wanting to do fund raising tasks when you need them. Last option is to hire a painter (of sorts). Have them dismantle the entire unit, place supports while they sand blast, prime and paint before reinstalling. Those are the options I've danced with. Question... Do you feel my pain,LOL
That’s brutal. I would have thought quickly running a wire brush over it would be minimally time consuming. Sounds like you’ve got quite the project on your hands.
For wood, seal with a dilute 8:1 mixture of distilled water and white wood glue (PVA, Elmers, Gorilla). Cheap to make and does a great job sealing for even coverage.
Calling homosexuality immoral is as much a display of ignorance as devaluing a person’s life on the basis of their opinions. It’s time for people to stop commenting on this thread. I would prefer not to lose faith in my viewers from an intellectual and humanitarian perspective if it’s all the same to you guys.
You should make a video on the stone spray paint. I used it to redo my countertops. It had a few runs in it but I sanded after it dried and they turned out amazing. However some people have a hard time using it so a video would be nice for them. Thank you for your video!
+Sroor9001 I can't tell if that's a serious question or not, so I'll answer it haha. The painting part is to create a coating and likely add a colour of some description.
+Sroor9001 Technically it depends on the paint type. Most paint harden in layers, so in order to get the layers to stick properly you'd want to go a bit rougher than that. Usually around 800 grit.
Also note that primer and top coat may have different layer times. Cause I made that mistake today. Same brand and line of paint and primer, waited 5-8 mins between primer coats. Moved to color and on the second coat I realized this wasn't dry enough. Thought I may trippin since it's very glossy and I'm not very experienced. Waited about 5-8 mins and applied a light 3rd coat. Confirmed that It was not just cause it's glossy lmao.
@@BradAngove no, I think it was the one where you do a crackle finish on a guitar (black over red and orange) I thought you had like a hood or vent that sucked the fumes away. I just recently bought a 3M respirator because some of the stuff I've been using has a lot of strong fumes.
I needed to go abroad in the middle of an acrylic lacquer rattle can candy apple red paint job on a guitar.* It has been left to dry for a month, and the drying has been successful with no problems detected. However, I need more translucent red, as the two coats I applied before leaving, still do not cover the gold base evenly. Now, the dilemma (I think) I am facing is this: - If I just clean the surface with Windex, let dry and spray another 1 or 2 translucent red coats, I am likely to get peeling of the final layer due to poor adhesion, is that correct? - However, if I sand the surface before the next two coats, won't I lose the translucent effect? Do I need to sand everything down to the primer again, sand and build up both gold and translucent and clear coat without sanding in between, or can I get away with a light sanding of the translucent red (if so, what grit do you recommend), spray 2 more red coats before clear, and still get acceptable results? *I know you took up the difficulties with CAR before Brad - I am sorry for not heeding the advice, but I just needed to try for myself...
You’re in luck; this is a very easy “fix” as you haven’t done anything wrong. Give it a very light sanding with some 600 or 800 grit paper and clean it. Then go ahead and spray again. The finish will haze up when you sand, but that will be rectified immediately when you spray again.
1:40 About spray coats being too light and looking like dust. I wish I'd watched this yesterday. Watched a ton of videos, but none of them talked about this. They just emphasized light coats, but no negatives to watch out for. So I sprayed my bike 16 inches away, like the instructions said, and just got dust. Granted, I sprayed outdoors. But yeah, I'm going to move closer a bit. More like 12 inches.
In the stage of sanding then using clear coat. This is new to me and it is daunting because the 800 grit sp did scratch the paint. Lets see if the clear coat does cover it up
If it is a cold day, is it a good idea to warm your paint up in a bucket of warm water first? Also is there a rough guide when using spray tins, of an application speed per foot and a distance eg. At 6 inches away from the workpiece, you need to cover 1 foot per 2 seconds. I go back and forth several times to get a light layer first, leave a few minutes, then repeat. This can take a while, but I still get the odd run. Good tip, not to mess with when wet, I fell foul of this on may occasions to stop runs. turning work upside down if small enough does help reduce the damage though.
I like to warm my paint up, but I don’t spray in cold conditions. That causes all sorts of problems. Have a look at my video on how to get an even coat of paint with spray cans to see application speed etc.
Simple question. If you sand between coats, are you doing anything to clean off whatever came up from sanding? I realize you just want to scuff but my guess is something comes up. Thank you
An issue I have found if you let a piece dry for a day and then sand it lightly it opens up the pores and then if you recoat right after it can wrinkle as the solvents will activate the old paint.
Very informative and clearly stated. I am using Rustoleum appliance epoxy gloss white in a rattle can. Would it be a good idea to lightly sand and apply a clear coat once dry? What kind if so? Thanks
Hey i am gonna paint a cross for a friends mom who passed away. Im going to use spray cans the cross is already painted black should i sand it down before adding the metal silver or just paint over the black? Also should i put the primer on top of the black or over the sanded part before adding the silver/gold? Please help me out long time subscriber here.
If it’s already painted you can sand that paint (not sand it off, just sand it) with 400 or 600 grit paper, clean it, and then go ahead and spray your silver.
So i followed those tips and i made a huge mistakes not mentioned: 1. was outside and there was a wind breeze (not good). 2. used latex gloves and they went saggy due to sweat so a tip went over the nozzle and full drips appeared on my paint job (not good).... and i dried project in open sun and bubbles apeared (also not good)... i failed big although i went trough some 'mistakes' videos.
Your video was very informative.... My question is... I made a wood box to hold flowers indoors, the color I spray painted it I don't like... Can I just use another color? What can I do?
I have found that if I have a piece I am working on that I can move, and I get a paint run, I can tilt up the piece and spray a lot of extra paint and keep the piece level and the paint run will spread out and disappear. Then let the paint cure.
Hey, I have a question, I never seem to find an answer to, how do I avoid or fix the spray paint becoming sticky after it dries? I used different types of spray paint, but mostly 'rust oleum', and I always get a sticky finish more or less depending or brand/type (when choosing a shiny finish rather than matt)
Another great video. Early on you mentioned if only waiting between coats of lacquer 15 min, should only do 3 coats a day. Is there an amount of time to wait between coats so you could do more than 3 coats in a day ie. building up a few layers in a low area? Thanks!!
Hi I did all 5 of these mistakes lol and my laminate counter is too dark with so many mistakes on it. Advise? Can I just spray paint over it? Or take of the coat and start from scratch? If so best advise for each option. Your help is greatly appreciated! Memo to me no more DIY
I felt the wet paint comment in my soul lmao. First time trying to Kote a gun I did like 5 redos before having a conversation with myself and accepting that you can’t fix wet paint, it’s ok to sand.
What do you reckon the right distance to spray from is in most cases? I spray from about 30cm and because I have to paint outside i loose half my paint in the breeze. Be good to have a well ventilated area to paint in..
Check out my video on how to get an even coat of paint with spray cans. I think you’ll find it useful. You can adjust spray distance, but you need to adjust your technique with it.
Thanks, very good tips. I am planning to spray paint an old stainless steel cabinet and it is my first time to use spray paint. Do I have to sand it? Thanks a lot
Thanks Brad. Already noticed the edge issue on my bike frame. I did let my drips run knowing nothing would make it better. The one thing I am trying to get right is that when painting a bike, a steel bike with narrow tube diameters, it is hard to get full coverage on any one coat without overpainting some spots so my theory for right now is that I need to put a lot of light coats on and focus follow up coats on the areas that are clearly difficult to reach. My drips have been as a result of trying to get full coverage in one go. I kind of feel that the trick for an object like a bike frame is getting it suspended in a way that allows me to move it freely in all directions. I just put on an enamel coat so I guess I need to scuff it up a little before the second coat. I live down in South Florida and I was wondering if there would be any curing benefit from putting the frame in a kind of solar oven, some aluminum foil that would reflect the sun onto the frame and heat it up. You have any views on that?
Hi Ed. Light coats are the key, but I also have a video on how to get an even coat of paint on curved surfaces that you might find helpful. As for the sun, I would advise against that. Most paints aren’t designed to be applied or dried in direct sunlight, with the exception of things like deck paint and house paint.
As a finish color, over sanded primer, has anyone sprayed gloss hammered black for two light coats, and finished it with two medium coats of satin dark or navy blue? I want to have the hammered texture, but not so shiney, and I can't find hammered blue shades either. So I thought this would do. Both colors would be Rust-Oleum 2x brand laquer paints. I'd apply each coat about 20 to 25 minutes apart in the shade of an open carport so each layer wouldn't be wet, but just slightly tacky to surface feel dry.
Thank you for this informative video,👍👍Ive been thinking about spray painting my work table. As a Nail Technician i may spill some acetone or monomer on my table, will these chemicals remove or strip the spray paint from the wood? Just wanted to know how durable spray paints are because ive never used them before.
Old thread but a shot in the dark on the hopes you can help me out. I just about finished a custom guitar for a Christmas present. I already had the headstock stained, sealed and clear gloss. Today I applied the fender decal on headstock. I then put on a real lite coat of same clear goat. Now it was raining earlier and probably high humidity but was raining at time: I figured it was going to be quick and simple. Anyways after the lite coat I brought inside and it immediately went from glossy to hazy. Was it too lite goat like you mentioned in this video or the humidity a factor? I’m Hoping a nice normal coat will bring it back to a glass like finish. Or do I have to start over? Any advice would be appreciated. I put my heart into this thing and was so close to putting a bow on it: Thanks in advance
I'm nearing the 'voilà !' moment on a bike frame (eBay, Columbus Steel, NOS, 1990s,never painted) ~ had not thought to look for the videos as this one 😁 that help me realize where errors abound(ed). But all-in-all, I'm thinking "hey, you know that Salvador Dali sold 'runs' for thousands of dollars; just motor onward...". It will be unique, at least (silver base glitter coat, candy green for headtube joint and seattube joints; clearcoat 2K). Thanks for clear videos that stand up, concisely framed as well! 🎃🎃😅😎 (Oct 22)
I painted a mini bike frame today. Ive painted many things before in the past. This was primed with etch primer and sanded. 2nd coat was filler primer again wet sanded. Everything was smooth before the base coat. I then put the p Base color on of heat treated duplicolor with ceramic urethane. Put 3 coats of it on. It came out very rough. Never had this before. Waited 10 min for each coat like the directions said. I am not happy with the rough texture. By the way it was gloss black. I have no drips or runs just very rough. What giveS!
I just painted a hood scoop with tremclad rust paint it takes hours to Dr, I did one good coat and that's all I'm doing can I use a fan or blow dryer to speed up the process
Great info! I'm just wondering how long do I wait to apply my clearcoat after sanding. I let my color layers fully cure, and now just need to sand a bit.. And then do I lightly wash it obviously to get any dust/residue off? Then spray on clear coat once clean and dry? Lol I'm racing against temps.. getting too cold here to paint and don't have heated garage.. though can provide some heat in my makeshift "paint booth" complete with air exchange system.. 🤣
Would be good if you could do a video of the scary sanding thing, and how clear coat will cover up the dullness and scuffs from sanding. Like, showing the actual process. Thanks. Great vids.
@@BradAngove I saw where you mentioned it in a Q & A video. But I think it would be great if you did a whole video on it. With visuals of you sanding and then clearcoating. Maybe you have. I'll have to check. You are awesome for even responding to people.
Great info! I have a bicycle carbon fork that's painted gloss black. I'd like to paint it a dark gray to match the frame. Can I just scuff the clear coat off the fork and then spray over. Or do I need to sand it down to expose the carbon weave?
tip #3 happened to me got frustrated none of my local Canadian Tire stores had duplicolor spray can paint i was looking for so i just bought some walmart rustoleum black gloss amd gloss clear, as soon as i sprayed the blCk gloss i got bumps everywhere because i had acrylic enamel already on the piece
Here's a couple of tips for you Rattle Can painters. Once the surface is prepped and ready to paint.. Put the spray can in a pot of warm/hot water from THE TAP! do not boil it. 5min is good. The warm paint lays down much more even and the higher pressure in the can helps a ton. Second tip.. if you are running out of pressure in the can but still have lots of paint left...hook a 3mm airline to a small compressor with a gauge, pull the nozzle off the paint can and attach airline. Repressurise to 100 psi. The cans are designed to take much higher pressures but Ive never felt the need or had the courage to go higher LOL Also Sun drying your parts will cut curing time by more than half, but comes with the risk of getting debri on your parts if outside.
I should probably also note that air isn’t a very good propellant and generally isn’t what’s used in spray cans, but it’s certainly better than nothing, so that tip can be useful in a pinch.
I never knew that you really do have to sand in order for the clear coat to work/adhere. I am/was one of those scared types. Not anymore. Thanks, again.
Hey, I’m using rust oleum enamel paint and clear. It’s cold here in Texas and I’m trying to paint my valve cover in a back room and as I applied the clear I realized it wrinkles instantly. What causes the clear to rinkles?
Funny your wearing that zeppelin starship shirt . I am repainting a old Budweiser blimp in zeppelin starship colors and looking at your vids for advise .ironic
Okay, I've seen that "Wet paint, do not touch" sign on few objects and touched it anyways. Now I'm not sure if I should put that sign on my workpiece or not
#1 - Getting caught.
Haha good point. That is a mistake for sure.
Don't do drugs
@@rambam69 I
#2 don't drink the spray
@@onlyasithdealsinabsolutesd6526 you're not suppose to drink it?
Thanks for taking the time to discuss every single mistake I have ever made (and still struggle to avoid). One day I will get it right.
Well, they are very common mistakes haha.
The tip about practicing on something you don't care about saved me.
It's a universal Froken. Lay some tile and plan to rip it up to get the hang of tiling ( buy some cheap stuff ). Learn to solder copper with scrap pieces. Weld scrap before trying it on valuable pieces. Practice your free kicks on the training ground before trying it in the Champion's League finals.
@@errcoche GREAT!!!!!
Ya, but it took my ex wife 2 hours to get the paint off her arm.
@mikejohn0088 just don’t get it in her hair…
Stumbled across this and you ANSWERED a question about my current job that I've searched and searched for with no answer regarding metallic paint and sanding....THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU
Glad I could help. I just did a video on metallic spray paint jobs that you may find quite helpful.
#6: Not waiting long enough for the paint to dry/cure before sanding
I was thinking it’s cold causing it to wrinkled.
Light and heavy are a function of two main variables speed of your hand and distance. The slower your passes the thicker the coat. The closer your passes are the thicker the coat. The most important thing you need to do is read and follow the directions on the can. I tried a brand I had never used before. The paints I was used to said 10 to 12 inches from the surface to be painted. The new paint said 6 to eight inches. It is a rapid cure paint dries to touch in 15 minutes, handle in one hour, recoat anytime. I sprayed too far from the surface, ended up with paint acne, thousands of tiny bumps. Paint partially cured in flight, too thick to lay down. Currently waiting for paint to cure completely so I can sand it smooth and repaint. You channel is a great resource for people that are willing to learn. Keep up the good work.
Sounds like a transcription from my video on how to get an even coat of paint with spray cans haha. Thanks for watching.
Watched this mid project and applied the tips here, completely changed the results! Thank you!!
I like it that you get to the point quickly. It makes it much easier to use the information!
dude I love the way you actually answer people that is rare in a channel thanks for the videos
Thanks for watching.
+MrPolicekarim What about it?
+MrPolicekarim it should. Smaller surfaces will require you to spray carefully and lightly. If you're spraying plastic, start with adhesion promoter. There's nothing exclusive to models that changes how the paint works.
impressive
+Brad Angove i wanna know whay spray is not last it can be easily combed plz answr
I like how you make effort to reply to those comments and questions regarding your videos... seems you're genuine to help others regarding these matter... respect to you and looking forward fof your more videos
Thank you. That was the whole purpose haha. Help others get this information more easily than I got it.
Your videos are very helpful! Mixing differnt paint types with compatible clear coats is my weak point in my learning process. When I look at a spray paint can (Krylon, Rustoleum, etc) , often it will not clearly state what type of paint that it is (enamel?). That is one difficulty I face. I wish there were a visual chart which showed the dos and don'ts regarding compatibility of paints/clear coats, in detail. It would be good to print it out and hang it near my work stations. Once I learn more, maybe I'll make one.
I’m planning on doing a video on paint compatibility at some point. Hopefully I can make it reasonably comprehensive.
Dude, I mess up every time when I spray paint. But now I am going to attempt to paint my new Unlimited Desert Racer body, and I am so thankful I watched this video! I have no patience and have never ever thought about sanding! Thanks soo soooo much!
Glad I could help
I always over sand not sure why I go bare metal then prime, sand, paint and runs. Whenever I tried sipping a run I wish I didn’t. Always looked horrible and then trying to sand it smooth. I believe I shouldn’t be allowed near tools.
All excellent tips, Brad.
I find, in my experience, that the biggest mistake most people make, me included, is getting into a hurry and trying to rush things. I had to basically train myself to slow down and take my time. We (I) often forget that the last 5% of your work will get 95% of the attention. We get a project to the point of finishing it (which is the first thing people notice) and start taking shortcuts, trying to hurry the process along. I have to force myself to remember that the finish, no matter what type it is, is going to do what it's designed to do in the amount of time it needs to do it, and there's not a lot I can do to change that. I have to constantly keep in mind that a week is going to pass whether I'm waiting on a finish to cure, or I'm trying to fix something I should have just left alone to begin with.
READ and FOLLOW the directions - you don't know more than the people who made the finish you're using. You can't know more than they do - they made it. They've done the R&D. Take their advice. Still, I have to force myself to wait the 72 hours needed to let a coat cure before I can sand and recoat. I don't have to like it, but I do have to do it.
Thanks for the video!
I'm new to spray painting and I definitely rush things
All too true Mark. It can make for a tough learning experience when people try to circumvent the usual techniques and waiting times.
is 72 hours an end all be all spray paint curing time? Some I hear 5-7 days to gas out, others it's 30 days with "The new type spray cans," whatever that means. My wheels had to go back on the car 16 hours after I "finished" painting yesterday; was going to wait until after the weekend to wash the car and wheels, polish and then seal them, no clearcoat.
EhK47 Follow the tech sheet for the paint. If you're using spray cans, follow the directions. If you get no help there, call or email the paint company. They should have a tech line
72 hours is not a hard and fast rule. Some spray paints cure quickly, others technically don't cure at all. I can't say for sure with the information I've been given, but likely I would avoid pressure washing your wheels for the next 2 weeks. You should probably be able to polish by now unless you used lacquer.
Great vid, Brad! The number 1 thing that's helped me with enamels is curing time. Enamel sprays sometimes get a bad rap concerning durability. When I called Rustoleum to "complain" I was told enamels typically take 6 to 8 weeks to cure to full hard. I tested this on a toolbox restoration, waiting a full 8 weeks before putting it in service. I have to say I can't chip the paint even if I try. It's also super resistant to cleaners and most solvents. I used Rustoleum Hammered spray in case anyone is wondering. Primed the bare steel substrate with acid etch primer, followed by filling primer and wet block sand to 800 grit and finished with 3 wet coats of the Hammered finish. All Rustoleum products. (I have a Rustoleum factory a few miles from me).
+James Pelosi Thanks James. That hammered stuff is pretty damn solid.
Great video! And I really love that you posted key times along the video for those wanting to get to the point! Much appreciated!!
Simple stuff you just explained...great for anyone who's first time spraying..great video!
sick tips solved a bunch of problems ive been having for to long in 6 minutes
Thanks. I'm glad you found it helpful.
Thanks. This is super helpful, I am spray-painting for the first time at work today.
+Will Chen I hope it goes well for you. Thanks for watching.
5:54 “Don’t sand it when it’s wet” - Anyone that needs that advice has no business ever going near a spray job 😂
Fair point, but also you would be surprised what some people have done...
I've never tried while it was wet, but I've tried sanding and found that it never fully dried / cured, where it is basically gummy. What a PITA. I thought spray paint was supposed to dry fast, but I've had thick spots never fully cure a week later and not sand properly.
Before I painted my first guitar, (A kit) I went and bought a 4ft length of 2x12 from home depot. I then cut it into 4 equal sections (Making each section approximately the size of a typical Strat or tele) and treated each section as if it were my "guitar", sealing, sanding, spraying, etc. as if I were painting my guitar. When I got a section that looked like I wanted my guitar to look, I knew I was ready.
Dude you reply to so much comments and that’s cool...I appreciate the time you take cause it must take a while.
+A.J. Mccabe Thank you. I like being able to help.
Very informative video! Straight forward and best of all!? No Bull! Thank you for getting to the point and NOT slamming the viewers with all your tricks in video editing, terrible HIPHOP music in the background and forcing us the viewers to sit through 10 minutes of your history and background. THANK YOU Brad!! :)
Glad I could help
Good information! I look forward to seeing your other videos on spray painting and just painting in general.
Cheers man.
I used BEHR Aerosol Enamel Paint on my car rims. Painted with rustoleum 2 years ago. Painting in my basement. First 2 coats went on fine. 2 rims in 1 afternoon. Went to put 3rd coat on the next morning, it alligatored with in seconds on 100% of each rim. It looks amazing and I want to recreate it on the other 2 but I do not know what I did nor how to recreate it. The paint on the 2nd and 3rd coats came from the same spray can.
Great advice, I have found all to be true... Thank you for posting the info 🖌️
Thanks for watching. I’m glad you agree with it.
Some of the best painters out there and I mean the best seem to have they're own unique style trust me on that got it
I'm spray painting all my old furniture to save money and this was definitely what I needed! My gloss kept looking uneven.
Same thing I'm doing!! And when I googled my question, his video was one of the ones recommended to me. And I'm very glad I clicked. Extremely helpful. 😊
Glad I could help.
@@BradAngove Very much so indeed! Ty!
cant thank you enough for these videos. im in the middle of painting a guitar for the first time..got a run on the side and wasent sure what to do about it. now i know its not the end of the world i can breathe again lol keep making videos. extremely helpful.
Thanks Ray. I'm glad you're finding them useful.
To my dismay, I've made a couple of these mistakes. But those weren't the worst mistakes. The absolute worst mistake I've made is... impressively bad.
Doing rally stripes on a guitar, offset and going onto the front bevel. Took me (more than ) a few tries to get the angle just right, get the lines parallel, and straight. Had the guitar looking sweet! Clear coat, polish, nice. Went to assemble and... I probably had about 1/16" of paint on the guitar body. Which chipped (nasty chips!), and the p'ups had to be tapped into their cavities (yay more chips!).
Now I've disassembled (was only partially assembled), and I'm back at square one. My lesson learned is - sand it down, sand off the mistake, don't just paint over and build up. My laziness before caused more work and grief later. (it's worth mentioning that the sanding starts tomorrow, buying the rotary sander today)
I'm sorry to hear that Tom. Painting over mistakes is a risky game unfortunately, and the more paint that goes on, the more that can go wrong in many cases.
Brad, just opening the can for Rust-oleum it has a safety feature, it would help to demo. This video makes sense that's for sharing this information
What feature are you referring to?
plz wear a mask fam x
Also im getting small droplets coming out of my blue gloss paint i warmed it up and shook it :(
Nowadays they ask us to do that for other reasons lol this threw me off for a minute
Thank You. I'm about to paint my bamboo patio blinds and save myself money for new ones... this will help with the endless choices..
Glad I could help
Thanks Brad! Very informative "how to", "what not to do" on painting!!👍
Thanks for watching.
I would add another which is giving the can a really good shake, and shake often. That was a mistake I made especially when you are painting with metallic paint.
Great video, thanks for sharing Brad.
+Adan Walsh Thanks for watching.
I'm finally getting around to trying the crackle over Candy Apple Red, with them being different types I'll do a test piece first.
The other day I was trying to spray a guitar but instead of the paint getting on the guitar it got on the palm of my hand. Where did I go wrong?
Probably right at the beginning...
You had the can upside down.
Painting sounds like an art. I never liked art. But i can see the logic behind his teachings. good video.
Thanks. Some types of painting are artistic, others are more process based.
Hello, Brad, I have learned a ton from your videos about the art of spraypainting and really appreciate it! Related to this, I have a question.
Sometimes, when I am spraypainting, particularly a plastic object which I desire to paint different parts of it using different colors, it will require me to tape over the first color I've already sprayed on, so I can subsequently spray on an additional color without getting any of the second color spray on the one already painted (I'm painting some outdoor porch chairs that has fabric seating for the first color) and a heavy plastic framing for the second color. The question involves the best tape to use over the first / just sprayed color - as I will only leave the tape on long enough for the second color's coats to dry to the touch. Is Frog Tape "Delicate Surface" the best option - or is there a better option? I realize I could learn to be more patient (wife says, "yeah, right!" LOL) and wait until the first color has truly hardened several days. Thanks so much!
Yes, that is a good option or the blue painters tape from 3M which is designed to be left on longer than the green and doesn’t stick as hard.
Thanks much, Brad!
Paint splatter from cans is a problem I don't seem to avoid - some say it's not shaking the can enough and it's often cold where I live like well below the recommended painting temp..
Nice tips..
If you warm it up in warm water and make sure you clear out the nozzle after you use it, you may be able to get around that problem.
LED ZEP YEAH
for some strange reason ive been binge watching spray painting tips and such, this is the only one i havent been mad at! just good basic tips for anybody, nothing that could lead people wrong like "only use white base" though i will say, experiment using "non-compatible" paints together, it can lead to very cool things!
+jon lawrence Thanks Jon. You can definitely get some interesting effects with non-compatible paints, but the durability of those finishes is suspect.
one i really love, i go with Rustolium hammered base with a metallic automotive top applied cold (sub 40F) and extra heavy while the base is wet so it all flows, a great bio-mech feel to it and hardens up very well but cure time is weeks due to the thickness of the paint, and TY for the reply!
+jon lawrence thanks for the tip. I like doing that technique but with a light coat of metallic black over hammered silver. It gets little pin holes in it. Looks pretty cool. I actually was going to have a video coming out in it soon.
maybe we'll have to compare! ;)
+jon lawrence Sounds good to me haha.
When sanding between coats, do you wet sand or dry sand? Thanks!
Dry.
@@BradAngove I had a run on my last coat and I sand it.Then i put clear on it and the scratches were visible after the clear dried lol
What grit did you use?
@@BradAngove 500 wet sand!
Not what I was looking for . But I must say you are about the best tutorial speaker I've seen on youtube. To the point, concise and great relaxed mannerism. Too bad the information I often go for has speakers who cannot get their point across. Either poor video, WRONG answers, garbled speech (often from recording) or just become redundant. Very Good job Brad. I'm impressed.
Thank you sir. Just out of curiosity, what information are you looking for?
I am planning on repainting a wrought iron porch railing with posts. It has lots of, but somewhat light, rust spots all about. It's 'leaf / ivy' design is too attractive to give up, but hand cleaning these rust spots with steel wool/vinegar wash or wire brushes on its very intricate design will be very time extensive. I had used a 'rust reformer' about 10 years ago which worked but left it black. Which I don't mind since I'm repainting it anyway (It's white now & I like it as such) That said, the new rust reformer they have now doesn't turn black, but also doesn't work. I was hoping to find some ideas to get this project to a good start with a years to come equally good results. Sand blasting may be a good idea for the very few 'bigger' spots (1/4" at largest) but hardly the way to go on the whole porch (60' x 8'). Think if I sprayed on the newer rust reformer and paint over it with quality oil based paint will suffice? How would you do it?
I think you would need to worry about it spreading under the paint if you tried that. Have you considered a wire brush or soft wire wheel on a drill for generally scuffing and removal? Then an anti-rust primer etc.
Wire brushing combined with a dremel wire wheel is still at my most foremost thought. But as I said, it's a long and fairly tall iron porch surround. Making it very time consuming regardless of how light the dots of rust. The seven 'support' posts are 8" hollow squares each with an intricate leaf and ivy design. Getting inside the square would take an extension on either brush or wire wheel. In fact, I started a small section to time myself. It took (me) 45 min to hand wire a 2' X 42" section. And that was a straight away section with full both side access. I dread the 'hollow' four sided posts. Time is one thing. To do a redundant task ever so slowly while squatting, standing, kneeling kind of makes me shiver in thoughts of extreme muscle & joint stiffness. Where are the groups of boy scouts wanting to do fund raising tasks when you need them. Last option is to hire a painter (of sorts). Have them dismantle the entire unit, place supports while they sand blast, prime and paint before reinstalling. Those are the options I've danced with. Question... Do you feel my pain,LOL
That’s brutal. I would have thought quickly running a wire brush over it would be minimally time consuming. Sounds like you’ve got quite the project on your hands.
that changed my life
Hopefully in a good way.
For wood, seal with a dilute 8:1 mixture of distilled water and white wood glue (PVA, Elmers, Gorilla). Cheap to make and does a great job sealing for even coverage.
Has anyone ever told you that you look like Jake Gyllenhaal?
Actually, many people have told me that.
why? He is HOT and has a lot of gay fans! it doesn't actually matter what he does in his personal life, dude is talented and helps a lot of people!
Well that escalated quickly.
Calling homosexuality immoral is as much a display of ignorance as devaluing a person’s life on the basis of their opinions. It’s time for people to stop commenting on this thread. I would prefer not to lose faith in my viewers from an intellectual and humanitarian perspective if it’s all the same to you guys.
He does not that U mention it that's funny he resembles him for sure
You should make a video on the stone spray paint. I used it to redo my countertops. It had a few runs in it but I sanded after it dried and they turned out amazing. However some people have a hard time using it so a video would be nice for them. Thank you for your video!
Thanks Selena.
So you mean after painting and drying of paint you have to sand again so what's the benefit of painting !!!!!!
So is it ok 1000-1500 wet sanding paint then clear coat spraying
+Sroor9001 I can't tell if that's a serious question or not, so I'll answer it haha. The painting part is to create a coating and likely add a colour of some description.
+Sroor9001 Technically it depends on the paint type. Most paint harden in layers, so in order to get the layers to stick properly you'd want to go a bit rougher than that. Usually around 800 grit.
You might find your statement rather parochial if you ever ask that of a professional. (That is, from a quality professional)
Thanks for ya advice mate made the mistakes you just mentioned 1😐 will take on board thanks
I hope it helps.
excellent tips, man! i should've watched this before watching those videos on spray painting a bike and painting my bike...
Will, I'm glad you found the tips useful. I hope the bike went ok.
Also note that primer and top coat may have different layer times.
Cause I made that mistake today. Same brand and line of paint and primer, waited 5-8 mins between primer coats. Moved to color and on the second coat I realized this wasn't dry enough. Thought I may trippin since it's very glossy and I'm not very experienced.
Waited about 5-8 mins and applied a light 3rd coat.
Confirmed that It was not just cause it's glossy lmao.
Dude, I spray paint EVERYTHING and your tips have helped me immensely! I've fucked up so many things by doing exactly what you say not to do.
Glad I was able to help!
@@BradAngove Hey bro...what's the deal with that paint hood? Where'd you get it? What is it called so I can search for it?
I’m not sure what you mean. In this video?
@@BradAngove no, I think it was the one where you do a crackle finish on a guitar (black over red and orange) I thought you had like a hood or vent that sucked the fumes away. I just recently bought a 3M respirator because some of the stuff I've been using has a lot of strong fumes.
Oh, I see. It’s a paint booth that we got from and industrial supplier.
I needed to go abroad in the middle of an acrylic lacquer rattle can candy apple red paint job on a guitar.*
It has been left to dry for a month, and the drying has been successful with no problems detected. However, I need more translucent red, as the two coats I applied before leaving, still do not cover the gold base evenly.
Now, the dilemma (I think) I am facing is this:
- If I just clean the surface with Windex, let dry and spray another 1 or 2 translucent red coats, I am likely to get peeling of the final layer due to poor adhesion, is that correct?
- However, if I sand the surface before the next two coats, won't I lose the translucent effect?
Do I need to sand everything down to the primer again, sand and build up both gold and translucent and clear coat without sanding in between, or can I get away with a light sanding of the translucent red (if so, what grit do you recommend), spray 2 more red coats before clear, and still get acceptable results?
*I know you took up the difficulties with CAR before Brad - I am sorry for not heeding the advice, but I just needed to try for myself...
You’re in luck; this is a very easy “fix” as you haven’t done anything wrong. Give it a very light sanding with some 600 or 800 grit paper and clean it. Then go ahead and spray again. The finish will haze up when you sand, but that will be rectified immediately when you spray again.
1:40 About spray coats being too light and looking like dust. I wish I'd watched this yesterday. Watched a ton of videos, but none of them talked about this. They just emphasized light coats, but no negatives to watch out for. So I sprayed my bike 16 inches away, like the instructions said, and just got dust. Granted, I sprayed outdoors. But yeah, I'm going to move closer a bit. More like 12 inches.
Have a look at my video on how to get an even coat of paint with spray cans.
Thanks 4ur valuable information.....m a beginner in this field n this video 'll gona help me a lot
I'm glad the information will be useful to you. Thanks for watching.
In the stage of sanding then using clear coat. This is new to me and it is daunting because the 800 grit sp did scratch the paint. Lets see if the clear coat does cover it up
It generally does.
@@BradAngove The first coat was good. I put a slightly thicker clear coat to finish off and it started flaking.
TY, Brad! Now I know what NOT to do. I'll check your other videos for what to do.
Good informative video Mr. Angove!! I,ve done a shit-ton of rattle can painting and didn't know some of that stuff. Thank you kind sir!!
Glad you enjoyed it.
Stumbled upon you... I learned so much in this short video! Thanks 🏆
Thanks for watching.
Really appreciate your videos. Fantastic information and excellent presentation. Thank you.
Thanks Eric
If it is a cold day, is it a good idea to warm your paint up in a bucket of warm water first? Also is there a rough guide when using spray tins, of an application speed per foot and a distance eg. At 6 inches away from the workpiece, you need to cover 1 foot per 2 seconds. I go back and forth several times to get a light layer first, leave a few minutes, then repeat. This can take a while, but I still get the odd run. Good tip, not to mess with when wet, I fell foul of this on may occasions to stop runs. turning work upside down if small enough does help reduce the damage though.
I like to warm my paint up, but I don’t spray in cold conditions. That causes all sorts of problems.
Have a look at my video on how to get an even coat of paint with spray cans to see application speed etc.
Simple question. If you sand between coats, are you doing anything to clean off whatever came up from sanding? I realize you just want to scuff but my guess is something comes up. Thank you
Yes, I clean it off in between. Usually with wax and grease remover.
An issue I have found if you let a piece dry for a day and then sand it lightly it opens up the pores and then if you recoat right after it can wrinkle as the solvents will activate the old paint.
What kind of paint are you using?
@@BradAngove I used to use Rustoleum but I had issues with that so now I use Krylon Fusion.
It’s probably continuing to shrink. I don’t use krylon fusion, but you may need to let it dry for closer to a week.
Thanks I’ve taken your suggestions and the advice has been helpful
Glad to hear it
Very informative and clearly stated. I am using Rustoleum appliance epoxy gloss white in a rattle can. Would it be a good idea to lightly sand and apply a clear coat once dry? What kind if so?
Thanks
I doubt that you will need a clear coat for appliance epoxy. It’s not really designed to have a clear as far as I know.
Hey i am gonna paint a cross for a friends mom who passed away. Im going to use spray cans the cross is already painted black should i sand it down before adding the metal silver or just paint over the black? Also should i put the primer on top of the black or over the sanded part before adding the silver/gold? Please help me out long time subscriber here.
If it’s already painted you can sand that paint (not sand it off, just sand it) with 400 or 600 grit paper, clean it, and then go ahead and spray your silver.
@@BradAngove and do i spray the clear primer after im done? Im sorry its my first project.
So i followed those tips and i made a huge mistakes not mentioned: 1. was outside and there was a wind breeze (not good). 2. used latex gloves and they went saggy due to sweat so a tip went over the nozzle and full drips appeared on my paint job (not good).... and i dried project in open sun and bubbles apeared (also not good)... i failed big although i went trough some 'mistakes' videos.
Yeah, those are definitely mistakes. They don’t make the top 5 for me, but they’re probably fairly common.
thanks so much that was deeply appreciated and need information. Now im gonna go finish my custom center console.i hope ;)
I hope it goes well for you. Thanks for watching.
Your video was very informative.... My question is... I made a wood box to hold flowers indoors, the color I spray painted it I don't like... Can I just use another color? What can I do?
+denina9 Let it dry fully, sand it lightly with 600 grit, then go ahead and spray it with a coat or two of the new colour.
This video was really helpful as it helped me understand how to spray paint my golfs alloys
Jeez...literally every problem im having was covered. Thanks so much man.
Glad I could help. They are definitely common problems.
I have found that if I have a piece I am working on that I can move, and I get a paint run, I can tilt up the piece and spray a lot of extra paint and keep the piece level and the paint run will spread out and disappear. Then let the paint cure.
Hey, I have a question, I never seem to find an answer to,
how do I avoid or fix the spray paint becoming sticky after it dries? I used different types of spray paint, but mostly 'rust oleum', and I always get a sticky finish more or less depending or brand/type (when choosing a shiny finish rather than matt)
Sticky as in it doesn’t dry hard?
Another great video. Early on you mentioned if only waiting between coats of lacquer 15 min, should only do 3 coats a day. Is there an amount of time to wait between coats so you could do more than 3 coats in a day ie. building up a few layers in a low area? Thanks!!
It depends on the temperature and humidity conditions, but with nitro lacquer you can sometimes get away with 4 coats spaced out throughout the day.
@@BradAngove Brad, thanks for the quick reply!!
Hi I did all 5 of these mistakes lol and my laminate counter is too dark with so many mistakes on it. Advise? Can I just spray paint over it? Or take of the coat and start from scratch? If so best advise for each option. Your help is greatly appreciated! Memo to me no more DIY
If it has dried properly you can just sand it smooth and paint over it.
I felt the wet paint comment in my soul lmao. First time trying to Kote a gun I did like 5 redos before having a conversation with myself and accepting that you can’t fix wet paint, it’s ok to sand.
Unfortunately patience is key when it comes to painting.
What do you reckon the right distance to spray from is in most cases? I spray from about 30cm and because I have to paint outside i loose half my paint in the breeze. Be good to have a well ventilated area to paint in..
Check out my video on how to get an even coat of paint with spray cans. I think you’ll find it useful. You can adjust spray distance, but you need to adjust your technique with it.
Thank you for your very informative videos! Can you tell me if light sanding is still recommended for matte paint before a 2K clear coat?
It is, yes.
Thank you for the quick reply. Your videos have really helped me a lot!
Thanks, very good tips. I am planning to spray paint an old stainless steel cabinet and it is my first time to use spray paint. Do I have to sand it? Thanks a lot
Paint doesn’t stick to stainless very well. You need to sand it, clean it, and use a metal compatible primer.
I used semi gloss enamel and clear coat right after and got lots of eye fish...What kind of clear coat can I use for that kind of paint? Amazing info!
Sand your enamel lightly and make sure you clean it well. Then add a clear enamel. Fish eye is generally from surface contamination.
Thanks Brad. Already noticed the edge issue on my bike frame. I did let my drips run knowing nothing would make it better. The one thing I am trying to get right is that when painting a bike, a steel bike with narrow tube diameters, it is hard to get full coverage on any one coat without overpainting some spots so my theory for right now is that I need to put a lot of light coats on and focus follow up coats on the areas that are clearly difficult to reach. My drips have been as a result of trying to get full coverage in one go. I kind of feel that the trick for an object like a bike frame is getting it suspended in a way that allows me to move it freely in all directions.
I just put on an enamel coat so I guess I need to scuff it up a little before the second coat.
I live down in South Florida and I was wondering if there would be any curing benefit from putting the frame in a kind of solar oven, some aluminum foil that would reflect the sun onto the frame and heat it up. You have any views on that?
Hi Ed. Light coats are the key, but I also have a video on how to get an even coat of paint on curved surfaces that you might find helpful. As for the sun, I would advise against that. Most paints aren’t designed to be applied or dried in direct sunlight, with the exception of things like deck paint and house paint.
As a finish color, over sanded primer, has anyone sprayed gloss hammered black for two light coats, and finished it with two medium coats of satin dark or navy blue?
I want to have the hammered texture, but not so shiney, and I can't find hammered blue shades either. So I thought this would do. Both colors would be Rust-Oleum 2x brand laquer paints. I'd apply each coat about 20 to 25 minutes apart in the shade of an open carport so each layer wouldn't be wet, but just slightly tacky to surface feel dry.
Thank you for this informative video,👍👍Ive been thinking about spray painting my work table. As a Nail Technician i may spill some acetone or monomer on my table, will these chemicals remove or strip the spray paint from the wood? Just wanted to know how durable spray paints are because ive never used them before.
Yes those chemicals will remove most paints. If you want to avoid that you need a catalyzed paint or clear coat (which are somewhat dangerous).
Old thread but a shot in the dark on the hopes you can help me out.
I just about finished a custom guitar for a Christmas present. I already had the headstock stained, sealed and clear gloss.
Today I applied the fender decal on headstock. I then put on a real lite coat of same clear goat. Now it was raining earlier and probably high humidity but was raining at time: I figured it was going to be quick and simple. Anyways after the lite coat I brought inside and it immediately went from glossy to hazy. Was it too lite goat like you mentioned in this video or the humidity a factor?
I’m
Hoping a nice normal coat will bring it back to a glass like finish.
Or do I have to start over?
Any advice would be appreciated. I put my heart into this thing and was so close to putting a bow on it:
Thanks in advance
Sounds like blushing from the humidity. Try using some blush remover from Mohawk.
I'm nearing the 'voilà !' moment on a bike frame (eBay, Columbus Steel, NOS, 1990s,never painted) ~ had not thought to look for the videos as this one 😁 that help me realize where errors abound(ed).
But all-in-all, I'm thinking "hey, you know that Salvador Dali sold 'runs' for thousands of dollars; just motor onward...".
It will be unique, at least (silver base glitter coat, candy green for headtube joint and seattube joints; clearcoat 2K).
Thanks for clear videos that stand up, concisely framed as well! 🎃🎃😅😎
(Oct 22)
I painted a mini bike frame today. Ive painted many things before in the past. This was primed with etch primer and sanded. 2nd coat was filler primer again wet sanded. Everything was smooth before the base coat. I then put the p
Base color on of heat treated duplicolor with ceramic urethane. Put 3 coats of it on. It came out very rough. Never had this before. Waited 10 min for each coat like the directions said. I am not happy with the rough texture. By the way it was gloss black. I have no drips or runs just very rough. What giveS!
Did you clean the surface before you sprayed?
Brad Angove Yes with a lint free microfiber rag and 90% rubbing alcohol.
Really the two possibility that come to mind are you either painted it too light, or some dust got in there while you were spraying.
I just painted a hood scoop with tremclad rust paint it takes hours to Dr, I did one good coat and that's all I'm doing can I use a fan or blow dryer to speed up the process
It would be cool if he added examples or demonstrations of these mistakes to go along with his descriptions
Wouldn’t that just be showing you how to do things wrong? I’ve got lots of demos on how to spray properly if you’re interested.
Great info! I'm just wondering how long do I wait to apply my clearcoat after sanding. I let my color layers fully cure, and now just need to sand a bit..
And then do I lightly wash it obviously to get any dust/residue off? Then spray on clear coat once clean and dry? Lol I'm racing against temps.. getting too cold here to paint and don't have heated garage.. though can provide some heat in my makeshift "paint booth" complete with air exchange system.. 🤣
Right after you’ve sanded you can go ahead and clean in, and when it’s dry you should be fine to put on the clear.
Would be good if you could do a video of the scary sanding thing, and how clear coat will cover up the dullness and scuffs from sanding. Like, showing the actual process. Thanks. Great vids.
Have you seen it now? If not, I will be doing it again in tomorrow’s video.
@@BradAngove I saw where you mentioned it in a Q & A video. But I think it would be great if you did a whole video on it. With visuals of you sanding and then clearcoating. Maybe you have. I'll have to check.
You are awesome for even responding to people.
I see what you mean. I had a really old video on it, but I’ll see about doing another with more detail.
Great info! I have a bicycle carbon fork that's painted gloss black. I'd like to paint it a dark gray to match the frame. Can I just scuff the clear coat off the fork and then spray over. Or do I need to sand it down to expose the carbon weave?
Yes, just scuff at 600 grit and paint.
tip #3 happened to me got frustrated none of my local Canadian Tire stores had duplicolor spray can paint i was looking for so i just bought some walmart rustoleum black gloss amd gloss clear, as soon as i sprayed the blCk gloss i got bumps everywhere because i had acrylic enamel already on the piece
time to sand sand samd
Here's a couple of tips for you Rattle Can painters. Once the surface is prepped and ready to paint.. Put the spray can in a pot of warm/hot water from THE TAP! do not boil it. 5min is good. The warm paint lays down much more even and the higher pressure in the can helps a ton. Second tip.. if you are running out of pressure in the can but still have lots of paint left...hook a 3mm airline to a small compressor with a gauge, pull the nozzle off the paint can and attach airline. Repressurise to 100 psi. The cans are designed to take much higher pressures but Ive never felt the need or had the courage to go higher LOL Also Sun drying your parts will cut curing time by more than half, but comes with the risk of getting debri on your parts if outside.
Sun drying can also cause yellowing and other issues depending on what kind of paint you’ve used.
I should probably also note that air isn’t a very good propellant and generally isn’t what’s used in spray cans, but it’s certainly better than nothing, so that tip can be useful in a pinch.
I never knew that you really do have to sand in order for the clear coat to work/adhere. I am/was one of those scared types. Not anymore. Thanks, again.
Glad I could help.
Hey, I’m using rust oleum enamel paint and clear. It’s cold here in Texas and I’m trying to paint my valve cover in a back room and as I applied the clear I realized it wrinkles instantly. What causes the clear to rinkles?
Could be surface contamination or temperature. Have a look at my video on why your paint is crazing.
@@BradAngove ok
Funny your wearing that zeppelin starship shirt . I am repainting a old Budweiser blimp in zeppelin starship colors and looking at your vids for advise .ironic
first of all thanks for the tips and congratulations on 100k!
Thank you!
Okay, I've seen that "Wet paint, do not touch" sign on few objects and touched it anyways.
Now I'm not sure if I should put that sign on my workpiece or not