I watch for the general painting advice, as I don't paint guitars, but I do paint odds and ends here and there. The reason I watch you instead of looking for someone else is because of how amazing your work is
+Neato Electro Thanks. I’m glad you like my stuff. I try to put out some general painting advice like this when I can, but most of the concepts are fairly universal.
I've learned so much from you, Brad. Thank you. I'm in the middle of building my first guitar and your content has been an absolute a gold mine for a novice luthier, particularly around finishing. I've still made mistakes, but I can almost always find a video on how to fix/prevent it. Thanks heaps.
This is the most useful short tutorial relating to paint finishes ever! I've been struggling with this should you /shouldn't you question for some time but watching your earlier videos I just about got it sorted in my head. This video draws things together nicely. Thanks!
Excellent video you gave me the inspiration to repaint my guitar. Had some difficulties trying to get it right but what I experienced is some blemishes in my finish so sanding with a higher grit 600 ,1200 gave me better results and even better when not sanding at all.
Thanks Brad for the this information. I decided to spray lacquer instead of poly for this Billy Bo project. I want to get used to my new R500 gun and compressor, then I will try poly. I have sprayed Mohawk lacquer spraypaint on my first guitar project and it turned out great except for slight cracking around the pickguard holes due to the wet sanding water expanding I have learned. Therefore I want less issues or sanding between coats on this project. Thanks again for the words of wisdom.
Painting a Steinway grand piano and although I'm using waterborne lacquer (Mowhawk) your video was very informative...they recommend 320 grit between coats but I like 600, so far....the following coats seem to look smooth. I love your distinction between "melting " of solvent based lacquer and "mechanical " bond achieved by sanding. I have decided to allow 4 hours between coats to allow moisture to evaporate, but I'm hoping for molecular bonding instead of layering which can show up and necessitate more coats. Unlike solvent based lacquer, the waterborne lacquer (according to Mowhawk ) has a limit of coats....I believe he said 8 is plenty and more is possibly problematic
I read sanding paint with flakes or a metallic look will cause issue's and requires one final coat after sanding to achieve true look. Final coat must not be sanded ?
@@BradAngove Hey Brad. If I sand my clear coat with an 800grit (to correct a mark I made from removing a hair 😔) I'm assuming that will create scuff marks on that layer. Does adding a few more coats of clear hide them marks or do I need to remove them by sanding with a higher grit before applying final coat of clear. I'm using Duplicolour for both the paint and clear. Both are acrylic lacquers so if I'm correct I don't need to worry about mechanical adhesion ?
Clear. To the point. Thank you! One final question; satin polyurethane (rattle cans) - should it be treated the same as gloss with regards to coating, drying, sanding, except for the final coat?
You said it 1 million times I think, but I can’t keep it straight. What kind of paint should you or should you not use over poly, And does it or does it not necessarily need to be primed before painting? I am thoroughly enjoying your channel, it seems like when I have a question, it frequently gets answered if I watch a little bit longer. Thanks for everything
If you let poly dry fully it works with most paints. You’re probably thinking of lacquer and how it can’t go over oil based paints like enamels. It does not necessarily need to be primed. Just prepped.
I really wish you would do an episode on spraying a transparent lacquer paint onto a body. I've been searching around your webpage and I have found one where you take a guitar from scratch and paint a transparent color onto it.
Thank you very much for your professional and confident advice. I am painting my motorcycle wheels and I'm letting the paint dry for a day then going to apply the lacquer over the top. The can says to sand it down and clean with warm water then no grease etc which i think would literally destroy my work xD so imma just lay it over the top of the gloss base coat as it's pretty good as it is now :)
I'm the type of guy who sands lacquer between coats. I usually do a 800-1000 grit before doing my 3rd base coat just to make the surface smooth and easier to clean dirt and stains. I paint motorcycles parts and make sure to make surfaces smooth to make it easier to clean
Hey Brad, I asked a few weeks ago about this Dragoncaster I am painting. So, I painted the design last night with acrylic and it looks awesome, but I was curious about getting rid of the imperfections before sealing it. Should I wait a few days and lightly sand and gently wipe clean. My initial plan was to seal with shellac, and I am still heading on that course. I just wanted to know about this lite sanding before sealing. Thanks, it looks awesome even though it's not exact. I made it mine!!
I'm spraying a guitar with metal flake lacquer. I have some tiny dust spots on it. Should I wet sand them out and give it another coat of color before doing the clear coats? I'm thinking that wet sanding will mess up the evenness of the metal flake. This is a great channel, and I've learned a ton from watching. Thanks
If you sand and then flake again it should work ok, but you could also just clear coat and then sand out the bumps after if they aren’t otherwise noticeable.
Hey Brad, I just want to thank you for posting some very helpful and instructive videos. I’m so tired of all these amateurs(I*d*ots) just trying to get likes and subscribes, making 20 minute videos to explain one simple task playing their homeboys mixtape and about a million other irrelevant and irritating things they add to an instructional video. Ugh!! I just want to say, keep up the good work and thank you.
Hello Brad, great video. I'll explain my project and then ask a question about sanding at the end: Cube-shaped coffee table, dark brown. Already 2 coats of water-based satin finish Kelly Moore Durapoxy HP (DuraPoxy HP is a high performance acrylic urethane enamel) It needs at least one more (I'll probably do two more) coats of paint, last one applied 4 days ago. It has self-leveled nicely and no roller marks, but there are some nubs and nibs and I want smoother. I was thinking of trying this on one of the 5 sides as a test (bottom side doesn't count, obviously): wet sand (which grit?), wipe, apply another coat, let it cure 3 days, wet sand again (which grit?), apply final coat. If this works, repeat on other 4 sides, let cure, then (maybe) buff it / polish it. What do you think? Overkill?
Sand at 400 grit between coats. Then decide if you need it smoother/glossier at the end. If so you can got through the color sanding and polishing process.
This shit is helping RIGHT NOW Brad thanks once again. Been doing poly sealer with a black lack. That laq had to be sanded way too much without the sealer. Obviously using the poly sealer now and almost have this body 💯 smooth.
How long should I let the Behlen Vinyl Sealer dry before sanding and respraying another coat or two of sealer on the Mahogany guitar back? Instructions say 1 hour dry time before sanding again, but your video has me wondering what's best for Vinyl Sealer, which wasn't specifically mentioned in this video. I'm hoping that my waiting four hours to sand and respray on the second coat of Vinyl Sealer was ok. How long should I wait for the second coat to dry before sanding and applying a third coat. I think you're right about the Mahogany being "kind of thirsty."
Using Rustoleum Enamel for color base coat, but I will wait the 24-48 hours for the final sealer coat to dry unless you tell me otherwise. Hey, thanks again!
What about suing Mineral Spirits instead of water for wet sanding- as that won't swell the wood? And would you sand color coats if there is a light bit of orange peel if using spray Laquer?
Hi Brad, i've sprayed my Tele kit with Krylon colormaster paint+ primer, which i think is acrylic enamel... I already have a Rustoleum 2k clear coat, an oil based Poly and a Rustoleum acrylic Lacquer can. What clear should i use with this type of paint? Btw I don't mind about the yellowing effect on oil poly. Thanks!
@@BradAngove i've read on many forums that their clear stuff is incompatible with the acrylic enamels. The other thing is i can't buy another can at the moment
I have 2 questions for you, doing a rattle can paint job on plastic harley saddle bags. Just got done with last color coat and will be letting them sit for a few days. My question to you is I should use 800 grit wet sand paper before applying the clear coat ? Then after clear coating apply the polish ? First time in a long time am I trying something like this.
Yeah, this question has stumped me before, but common sense and reading the cans seems to work. It would be helpful if Rustoleum products would more clearly identify what they are (acrylic? enamel?). I know what I'm using now but it should be more obvious. You're great with responding to comments, so I'll ask directly: how much dry time should I allow after 4-5 coats of color (one can of the 2X Painter's Touch Rustoleum) before sanding with 800 and spraying the corresponding clear coat? And how many coats of clear? I'm after as high a gloss as possible...
I’d give it at least a couple days, but probably more like a week or two for that many coats. More clear coat doesn’t necessarily mean more gloss. It does however give you more room to sand and polish if you’re planning on doing that. I usually go for 3 or 4 coats.
@@BradAngove Alright, that sounds reasonable. I was tempted to start sanding, as the surface no longer has that rubbery feel in places and there's very little smell coming from the paint. But yeah, a few weeks is no doubt the safest bet. Not like I don't have other Teles to play in the meantime. Thanks as always Brad! Hope it's cool up yonder!
Hey Brad great channel. My question is, i've just completed my last coating of colour in the 3 stages like you said. Going to leave it dry out thoroughly before laquering. Do I really need to sand the colour before applying the first coat of laquer? Thanks and keep up the great videos!
Ok. I would start by saying be very careful about putting lacquers over other paint types. That being said, if the base isn’t lacquer it likely won’t bond chemically, so yes. You should sand.
Hi brad, i put 3 lagers of clear coat on my guitar. Its nice but there is some dust and a hair clogged up. So i think i sand it out and go for another 3 layers of clear. What grid size shall i use?
So the moron I just bought this motorcycle from, painted it with a terrible cheap almost seemingly latex paint especially on the fuel tank and as soon as I got gas on it it change color and peeled off immediately. Anyway I've been looking for the right paint to use by watching UA-cam videos, no real success yet what I ended up doing is buying some tractor Implement paint, oil-based enamel and thinning/adding it with a little hardener also some naphtha. I was just wondering what paint you would suggest what kind that is that would be very durable and gasoline resistant? thank you for the video it was very enlightening also!
I'm using a HVLP sprayer for a cheap kids boat, I will finish in a matte black......my question. Do I need to sand between coats?? Its an enamel marine paint. Im not looking for a perfect finish. I just want to make sure it gets three coats.Thanks
I have a harley benton cst 24 kit I am looking forward to completing. I am currently planning on grain filling, and using India Ink on the face, then finishing with a satin or matte clear coat finish. Any recommendations on how to best achieve this, with an India ink paint?
I have a huge cabinet I sprayed with rustoleum about 2 weeks ago. Was my first time spraying out of an hlpv gun. I got terrible orange peel and mega runs. 2 questions, I need to ad more coats still. Should I just ad the extra coat, and then color sand and work out the runs? If so do I need to sand the existing coat first for the next coat to stick? Or should I just sand the orange peel and runs down now, then paint and color sand again for the final step?
Hey Brad! when using nitrocellulose lacquer, Do you recommend sanding the last coat of color if it's not even and adding the last wet coat of color after it before applying the clear? or should I continue building clear coats, level it by sanding, and then add the last coat of clear?
Brad, what's your opinion on sanding metallics? There's a lot of people that say you shouldn't sand metallics because the flakes will lose the shine. I'm concerned about one of my projects. I've let it cure for nearly a week and was planning to hit it with 2k clear.
That is sometimes an issue. I occasionally seal in my metallics with a coat of clear right after spraying them. Then I have something to sand. Anyway, you can probably go ahead and spray the 2K over it as long as it isn’t glossy right now.
Not sure what you mean about sealant, but the catalyzed polyurethanes (automotive) have great gloss and don’t yellow. See my video in the difference between 1k, 2k, and 2x paints.
@@BradAngove I am going to paint my wooden table with a stain called unicorn spit, which is water based and so I will need a sealer that is oil based and pretty durable since it's my kitchen table.
Brad, Your videos are fantastic!! I'm spraying a guitar headstock that's already had a very nice clear Nitro Lacquer finish on natural maple. Been practicing on a couple pieces of mdf I sealed. I've put 3 coats of Rust-oleum gloss black, 15 min apart then 3 more next day. Had very fine orange peel. 2 days later sanded with 600 dry. It turns to a dark gray after sanding. Next day another 3 coats on it. Do I sand before the clear lacquer or just do the clear? Also, how long between last coat of black & clear? Thanks!!
If I put a couple coats of stain on the top of my guitar body so far (after sanding of course), would I need to sand a bit again before I add another coat or two of stain, if it's been a while since the first couple coats? I'm wanting to go a bit darker, plus I felt I didn't sand all the surface exactly evenly since the stain seemed to soak in on parts of the top more than others.
Please help, so I've painted a cabinet with pasti-kote (enamel?), now I wanna apply a clear (plasti-kote again), do I need to scuff the colour before I do??
Hey Brad, thanks for the great videos. I always use your advice as I am learning to paint guitars. Lacquer, acrylic, enamel,......I get confused fairly easily. I have successfully used Duplicolor paints, per your recommendation. What type of paint is Duplicolor? Can it be sanded to smooth out a slight sag in the paint before spraying clear?Thanks
Hi Brad. Right now I'm staining a rosewood neck black with india ink. It looks good, but I feel as though I want to protect it and maybe make it shine a little more. Should I use true oil and gunstock wax like I did on the back of the neck? Or should i varnish it? Should I compound and polish it out, being mindful of the frets of course? Or something else...? Thanks.
People thing that fretboard finishes are really complex, but really there’s less magic to it than you would think. You can lacquer, tru-oil, or poly it if you want. Keeping it consistent with the back of the neck makes sense. It’s up to you whether you feel the need to polish or not. If you keep the finish thin you likely won’t need it.
Hey man, I am new to painting and customizing guitars. I am having trouble with a soft finish. I did a galaxy blue paint job and used Spray Maxx 2k clear can. I went straight from paint to clear after fash time without curing. Now its been 3 days and it is soft, i laid it down on some foam and it left an impression. So, is there a way to harden this? Or do have to start over?
Brad Angove I’ve used it before on another project. I made a wood guitar hanger with automotive grade spray paint and used the same clear coat. It hardened very well and looks great.
Wait.. so. I got confused with lots of info.. If i want to have a glossy finish on my guitar but with a thin layer of protection so the guitar can breathe what should I put on in? And how? Thanks in advance .
There aren’t really any glossy finishes that allow the guitar to “breathe”, but dead wood doesn’t breathe anyway. Regardless, the type of finish you’re probably looking for is a thin coat of nitrocellulose lacquer or oil.
i have a jackson randy rhoads FSR (came with natural wood grain from the factory) i applied white primer and 3 coats of paint.. and the wood grain is still visible??! what would i have to do to make the grain disappear and only have a nice white gloss finish?? THANKS YOU!
@@BradAngove is 24 hours good enough drying time of the laquer before sanding and spraying polyurethane clearcoat? And what do you mean on sanding lightly?
I LOVE LACQUER!! If you watch it closely, you can see it melting into the layer before it. I use it all the time at work. :) :):) Especially the Lacquer thinner. And thanks for the tips.
I have a question for you, Brad. Well, two questions, actually. First, what about primer and clear coat? Let's say I was going to spray paint a guitar body. I sand down whatever finish is on the raw wood (doing a mediocre job at best), then apply two coats of primer, two or three coats of paint, then two or three coats of clear, leaving ten or fifteen minutes between each time that I spray. Is this a bad idea, or will it be okay? My second question is, when are you going to work on those kits from SOLO? Been looking forward to that. Thanks! -Brent
+Brent Jones That’s too much paint at once. You can do your primer/sealer, let it dry and sand it, then repeat with colour and then with clear. 4 coats per session max. I’ve started working on the tele kit already. Should start posting this week or next hopefully.
Hi brad really need your help for.my case, I used rattle can for painting my diecast car. The problem is the paint very easy to peel. This is what i did. I sand the diecast first and than spray the primer paint. After the primer i already try both sand it and not sand it before the next coat. I wait the previous coat completely dry before start the next coat (try dry it with fan or just let it dry)and also try a thin coat for each layer. FYI i work at night and use acrylic paint. Pardon my bad English. Thank you
Its peeling off the metal..also try without primer,same result. Already try different brand of paint. Is it change the result if i make a box of metal with lamp for drying (like an oven process)?
Its just regular multi purpose grey primer. Just found out from you there is primer for metal.. first i use paint removal and clean it with soap. Then sand it with 1000 paper then wash it with water, and dry it. Not use anything for polish
So I sprayed some interior trim but on the 3rd coat attempted to reposition the item and got a small finger print in it. If I let it dry then wet sand can i get this out. If so what grit would be recommended as I would also need to achieve mechanical adhesion as it would be to dry. Will add one more final coat after ?
Sorry if this is basic, but i'm confused now. Do you sand between your last coat of spray paint and your first coat of clear coat? Or do you not sand again from your last coat of spray paint until after you have already put down a coat of clear coat?
Hello Brad, new to your channel and your vids have been super helpful so far! I have one question tho- after sanding my top coat down (cus scratches) there's this milky white fog on where I sanded (about 3000 grit) Should I buff it out before applying another gloss PU coat, or should I just put another PU coat above it and that white mily sand mark will go away? Many thanks!
If you buff it the new paint won’t stick. In fact, it probably won’t stick to 3000 either. You should sand it all uniformly with 800, clean it, and then add your next coat.
Hey question for you, why would certain spots on my 2nd coat start wrinkling? For info I sanded off old coat before starting and I’m using rustoleom I’ve been waiting 30 mins to let each coat dry before applying the next. Is this a weather issue? I have to spray outdoors due to no garage unfortunately.
Good advice as usual. Thanks Brad. Do you have any thoughts on using Danish oil as the base coat and then top coating it with Truoil for the final finish on bare wood?
Quick Question: In preparation for respraying and noticed waves in my paint can I use bondo or glazing potty to make correction? or in essence can bondo be used on clear coat?
Im using Color Tone guitar lacquer, silver metallic. It seems to not feel very smooth after painting so wondering what I should sand/use (800 grit?) prior to clear coating?
@@BradAngove Would you recommend heating the can up in warm water prior to spraying? Wondering if that would improve the feel of the paint after it dries?
I used a dupli color perfect match on a pc case but the textur came out like sand paper? Is there a way I can fix this I’m trying to get a smooth service before I use my clear cloat?
Rustoleum 2x ultra cover ENAMEL....got a light coat of primer and a base coat. Do I need to sand that orange peel off before 2nd coat? Should I use 400 grit if I do? Thanks for all your help so far, Brad.
I ended up using a white scotchbrite pad. Also, I figured out that if your paint job ends up with hairs or fibers on it, those with just fall right off during the scotchbrite session. Now onto the next coat, the morning after the base coat.
You don’t necessarily need take out the orange peel, but you do need to sand with something if you’re waiting that day in between. I would stick with the grey scotchbrite. White is a bit too fine to give the finish the tooth it needs so to speak.
It depends. Usually I wouldn’t use an inter coat clear before airbrushing, but if you do it can help to “save your work” so to speak in case you make a mistake.
Only if you are outside the recoat window. Generally you would want to seal those in with some clear during the normal recoat time to avoid messing up your metallic.
Only if you are outside the recoat window. Generally you would want to seal those in with some clear during the normal recoat time to avoid messing up your metallic.
Brad Gr8 videos u have ! Xlnt & logical . Do you recommend sanding spraypaint before applying rustoleum clear enamel ? I have an outdoor steel platform I built for my tow reciever hitch to carry a motorcycle or whatever needed. Do you think clear enamel would last 1 year in the elements? I painted it with rustoleum professional aluminum finish . I wanted to use 2k & a respirator but the chemicals scared me away 😁< Thankyou > kyle rich california
The clear coat should stick better if you sand generally. How long it lasts will depend on how much abuse it takes. Road grit, etc. hitting it will probably chip away at the paint fairly quickly.
If you sand a small spot after your first 3 clear coats, can you clearcoat just the small spot or is it best to do the whole thing again and just pay more attention to that small spot?
Hey Brad, great channel & great videos. Question - I’m using an acrylic based lacquer on my guitar. It’s been drying for a week now as I’ve been busy. Should I sand or just apply the clear coat as it is? Will it just melt in?
+Allan Lajoie generally it helps. It depends a bit on the paint though. Acrylic dries well under airflow. Polyurethane dries well under heat. Lacquer does well in low humidity... I think you get the idea.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Oh geez, I didn’t hear anything in the beginning so I cranked it, and then when the audio came back in I blew my ears out lol Great video though
+Oliver Le haha sorry about that. Something is wrong with the audio. I’ll try to fix it tonight.
Brad Angove
You are the man
+Tim Haren Thank you.
Same! Sound is on? /search sound, make default...WHYFDKJLFGDSGFSDGFHSDFJH oh shit that was loud and sound does work!
Me too 😂😂
I watch for the general painting advice, as I don't paint guitars, but I do paint odds and ends here and there. The reason I watch you instead of looking for someone else is because of how amazing your work is
+Neato Electro Thanks. I’m glad you like my stuff. I try to put out some general painting advice like this when I can, but most of the concepts are fairly universal.
Still my favorite channel when painting my guitars! This is a real treasure! Thank you Brad!
Thanks!
I've learned so much from you, Brad. Thank you. I'm in the middle of building my first guitar and your content has been an absolute a gold mine for a novice luthier, particularly around finishing. I've still made mistakes, but I can almost always find a video on how to fix/prevent it. Thanks heaps.
Glad I could help. Thank for watching.
The most coherent and succinct explanation I have heard for a long time. Big thumbs up mate - keep it up as these vids are very informative and useful
Thanks Ian
This is the most useful short tutorial relating to paint finishes ever! I've been struggling with this should you /shouldn't you question for some time but watching your earlier videos I just about got it sorted in my head. This video draws things together nicely. Thanks!
+Edmund Isanski I’m glad it cleared things up for you. Thanks for watching.
Now this is exactly what I'm talkin about.. answers the questions that you are asking. Is complete clarity and accuracy immediately. Thank you 👌
Glad you found it useful.
Thanks! Just the info I needed. Use 800 grit before the clear coat.
Glad I could help.
Thanks for the answer to my question about lacquer! You just saved me a bunch on time!
Excellent video you gave me the inspiration to repaint my guitar. Had some difficulties trying to get it right but what I experienced is some blemishes in my finish so sanding with a higher grit 600 ,1200 gave me better results and even better when not sanding at all.
Straight to the point, great job.
Thank you
Thanks Brad for the this information. I decided to spray lacquer instead of poly for this Billy Bo project. I want to get used to my new R500 gun and compressor, then I will try poly. I have sprayed Mohawk lacquer spraypaint on my first guitar project and it turned out great except for slight cracking around the pickguard holes due to the wet sanding water expanding I have learned. Therefore I want less issues or sanding between coats on this project. Thanks again for the words of wisdom.
I sure like the way you explain things. Its really helpful to me, as a beginner. Once I get the basics I can riff from there. Thank you.
Glad I could help
Good advice as always. Thanks!
Thanks, it really helped. I'm painting cabinets with latex but a lot of this applies. So far everything's looking great.
Glad to hear it
"A lot of people don't agree with me" ya, welcome to UA-cam
Hahaha truth.
Thanks for the info. I learned a lot and it was exactly the info I was looking for.
Glad to hear it
Painting a Steinway grand piano and although I'm using waterborne lacquer
(Mowhawk) your video was very informative...they recommend 320 grit between coats but I like 600, so far....the following coats seem to look smooth.
I love your distinction between "melting " of solvent based lacquer and "mechanical " bond achieved by sanding. I have decided to allow 4 hours between coats to allow moisture to evaporate, but I'm hoping for molecular bonding instead of layering which can show up and necessitate more coats. Unlike solvent based lacquer, the waterborne lacquer (according to Mowhawk )
has a limit of coats....I believe he said 8 is plenty and more is possibly problematic
Thank you for the video and information.
Cheers
"But he's an idiot". Loved it
Blunt, but true. He was an idiot.
Brad Angove thank you for being blunt
I’m an idiot and even I know not to polish it before, that guy was definitely an idiot lmao
Beautiful tips many thanks!!!! I’m in the middle of a project, your help is so much appreciated :)
Happy to help!
I read sanding paint with flakes or a metallic look will cause issue's and requires one final coat after sanding to achieve true look. Final coat must not be sanded ?
That’s essentially correct. Seal you metallic coat in with a coat of clear and sand that.
@@BradAngove Hey Brad. If I sand my clear coat with an 800grit (to correct a mark I made from removing a hair 😔) I'm assuming that will create scuff marks on that layer. Does adding a few more coats of clear hide them marks or do I need to remove them by sanding with a higher grit before applying final coat of clear. I'm using Duplicolour for both the paint and clear. Both are acrylic lacquers so if I'm correct I don't need to worry about mechanical adhesion ?
The next round of clear should remove 800 grit sanding marks.
Clear. To the point. Thank you!
One final question; satin polyurethane (rattle cans) - should it be treated the same as gloss with regards to coating, drying, sanding, except for the final coat?
Yes. You just can’t sand and polish the final coat.
You said it 1 million times I think, but I can’t keep it straight. What kind of paint should you or should you not use over poly, And does it or does it not necessarily need to be primed before painting?
I am thoroughly enjoying your channel, it seems like when I have a question, it frequently gets answered if I watch a little bit longer. Thanks for everything
If you let poly dry fully it works with most paints. You’re probably thinking of lacquer and how it can’t go over oil based paints like enamels.
It does not necessarily need to be primed. Just prepped.
I really wish you would do an episode on spraying a transparent lacquer paint onto a body. I've been searching around your webpage and I have found one where you take a guitar from scratch and paint a transparent color onto it.
I’ve don’t a few videos where I spray transparent colors on wood. Take a look at my second most recent video. It’s transparent lacquer on an acoustic.
custom cabinet and furniture maker here. well done video. accurate information.
Thank you.
Thank you very much for your professional and confident advice. I am painting my motorcycle wheels and I'm letting the paint dry for a day then going to apply the lacquer over the top. The can says to sand it down and clean with warm water then no grease etc which i think would literally destroy my work xD so imma just lay it over the top of the gloss base coat as it's pretty good as it is now :)
THANK YOU!! Clear logical explanation. No ego. Your videos have been so helpful!
Glad to hear you’ve found them useful.
I'm the type of guy who sands lacquer between coats. I usually do a 800-1000 grit before doing my 3rd base coat just to make the surface smooth and easier to clean dirt and stains. I paint motorcycles parts and make sure to make surfaces smooth to make it easier to clean
Can i spray 2k over acrylic enamel?
Great information. Thanks
Hey Brad, I asked a few weeks ago about this Dragoncaster I am painting. So, I painted the design last night with acrylic and it looks awesome, but I was curious about getting rid of the imperfections before sealing it. Should I wait a few days and lightly sand and gently wipe clean. My initial plan was to seal with shellac, and I am still heading on that course. I just wanted to know about this lite sanding before sealing. Thanks, it looks awesome even though it's not exact. I made it mine!!
As long as you can do so without harming the design then yes, a light sanding is a good idea.
I'm spraying a guitar with metal flake lacquer. I have some tiny dust spots on it. Should I wet sand them out and give it another coat of color before doing the clear coats? I'm thinking that wet sanding will mess up the evenness of the metal flake.
This is a great channel, and I've learned a ton from watching. Thanks
If you sand and then flake again it should work ok, but you could also just clear coat and then sand out the bumps after if they aren’t otherwise noticeable.
@@BradAngove Thanks, Brad
Hey Brad, I just want to thank you for posting some very helpful and instructive videos. I’m so tired of all these amateurs(I*d*ots) just trying to get likes and subscribes, making 20 minute videos to explain one simple task playing their homeboys mixtape and about a million other irrelevant and irritating things they add to an instructional video. Ugh!! I just want to say, keep up the good work and thank you.
Thanks Frank. I’m glad you’re finding these helpful.
Hello Brad, great video. I'll explain my project and then ask a question about sanding at the end:
Cube-shaped coffee table, dark brown.
Already 2 coats of water-based satin finish Kelly Moore Durapoxy HP (DuraPoxy HP is a high performance acrylic urethane enamel)
It needs at least one more (I'll probably do two more) coats of paint, last one applied 4 days ago. It has self-leveled nicely and no roller marks, but there are some nubs and nibs and I want smoother. I was thinking of trying this on one of the 5 sides as a test (bottom side doesn't count, obviously): wet sand (which grit?), wipe, apply another coat, let it cure 3 days, wet sand again (which grit?), apply final coat. If this works, repeat on other 4 sides, let cure, then (maybe) buff it / polish it. What do you think? Overkill?
Sand at 400 grit between coats. Then decide if you need it smoother/glossier at the end. If so you can got through the color sanding and polishing process.
Nice info bro, my motorcycle base coat was not enough, it's been 24 hours now.
what about spray paint cans and acrylic paints?
It's a good explanation .... he basically telling us how to " flow coat "
That’s part of it, yes.
This shit is helping RIGHT NOW Brad thanks once again. Been doing poly sealer with a black lack. That laq had to be sanded way too much without the sealer. Obviously using the poly sealer now and almost have this body 💯 smooth.
Awesome. Glad to hear your finding this stuff useful.
How long should I let the Behlen Vinyl Sealer dry before sanding and respraying another coat or two of sealer on the Mahogany guitar back? Instructions say 1 hour dry time before sanding again, but your video has me wondering what's best for Vinyl Sealer, which wasn't specifically mentioned in this video. I'm hoping that my waiting four hours to sand and respray on the second coat of Vinyl Sealer was ok. How long should I wait for the second coat to dry before sanding and applying a third coat. I think you're right about the Mahogany being "kind of thirsty."
4 hours should be just fine. The vinyl sealer dries very quickly. Give it a day before moving on to your lacquer afterward though.
Using Rustoleum Enamel for color base coat, but I will wait the 24-48 hours for the final sealer coat to dry unless you tell me otherwise. Hey, thanks again!
Sounds like you’re on the right track. Don’t forget to sand your sealer before applying the Rustoleum.
Will do...You're more responsive than if I were talking directly to Behlen. I can't sing your praises enough Brad! Thanks!
Glad I could help.
Well explained.i couldn't have said it better myself.
+Krusty Buzzard Thanks.
Great video. I shopping for a good beginner’s spray gun the won’t break the bank. Any recommendations. Thanks.
What counts as not breaking the bank?
Great video
Thank you
I may have missed it, but is it necessary to sand a flat primer? It would seem that the nature of a flat primer would allow the paint to stick (?)
Not always, but I would generally sand it anyway to make sure it is nice and level.
always some great info here !
Thanks Sam.
Wish I'd found this before starting work on polyurethane coating. Thanks.
I hope it helps
@@BradAngove Wondering how fine is too fine if I'm sanding down a triple coat of poly before applying another triple coat?
Actually nevermind I just watched rest of video and you answered that. Thanks.
What about suing Mineral Spirits instead of water for wet sanding- as that won't swell the wood? And would you sand color coats if there is a light bit of orange peel if using spray Laquer?
It can melt some paints, but it’s an option that can work well.
Hi Brad, i've sprayed my Tele kit with Krylon colormaster paint+ primer, which i think is acrylic enamel... I already have a Rustoleum 2k clear coat, an oil based Poly and a Rustoleum acrylic Lacquer can. What clear should i use with this type of paint? Btw I don't mind about the yellowing effect on oil poly. Thanks!
I think Krylon has their own clear from that line of paints dont they?
@@BradAngove i've read on many forums that their clear stuff is incompatible with the acrylic enamels. The other thing is i can't buy another can at the moment
Ok. Rustoleum 2x should be compatible. I didn’t rustoleum had a 2K though.
After sanding do you have to wipe the the dust off before you put on the next coat?
Absolutely
Thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching.
I have 2 questions for you, doing a rattle can paint job on plastic harley saddle bags. Just got done with last color coat and will be letting them sit for a few days. My question to you is I should use 800 grit wet sand paper before applying the clear coat ? Then after clear coating apply the polish ? First time in a long time am I trying something like this.
I like to use 800 before clear, yes. I have several videos on the sanding and polishing process that you may want to check out.
Do what do i need to do to paint a bare metal car bonnet? Pls help
how long is too long to wait after spraying color or base. To spray clear? What about 24 hours too long and you would have to scuff?
Yeah, this question has stumped me before, but common sense and reading the cans seems to work. It would be helpful if Rustoleum products would more clearly identify what they are (acrylic? enamel?). I know what I'm using now but it should be more obvious.
You're great with responding to comments, so I'll ask directly: how much dry time should I allow after 4-5 coats of color (one can of the 2X Painter's Touch Rustoleum) before sanding with 800 and spraying the corresponding clear coat? And how many coats of clear? I'm after as high a gloss as possible...
I’d give it at least a couple days, but probably more like a week or two for that many coats.
More clear coat doesn’t necessarily mean more gloss. It does however give you more room to sand and polish if you’re planning on doing that. I usually go for 3 or 4 coats.
@@BradAngove Alright, that sounds reasonable. I was tempted to start sanding, as the surface no longer has that rubbery feel in places and there's very little smell coming from the paint. But yeah, a few weeks is no doubt the safest bet. Not like I don't have other Teles to play in the meantime. Thanks as always Brad! Hope it's cool up yonder!
Hey Brad great channel. My question is, i've just completed my last coating of colour in the 3 stages like you said. Going to leave it dry out thoroughly before laquering. Do I really need to sand the colour before applying the first coat of laquer? Thanks and keep up the great videos!
Is the colour also a lacquer?
Thanks for the quick reply Brad. No it's not a colour laquer.
Ok. I would start by saying be very careful about putting lacquers over other paint types.
That being said, if the base isn’t lacquer it likely won’t bond chemically, so yes. You should sand.
I see many painters do great custom graphics with base coats and clear coat over them after like days without sanding. Is that possible for you?
It depends on the type of paint being used.
My base coat came out textured. Probably too much air and moving to fast. Sand it with 800 the next day smooth it out and then clear it. Right?
Correct; that should work as long as you don’t sand through.
Have you ever tried gesso to prepare a guitar for painting? Can it work?
I’ve never tried it.
Hi brad, i put 3 lagers of clear coat on my guitar. Its nice but there is some dust and a hair clogged up. So i think i sand it out and go for another 3 layers of clear. What grid size shall i use?
Yes. Use 800 grit.
Do you sand matt black basecolor before clearcoating? And if so how long do I wait before sanding basecolor when i just painted it
You can. I would wait at least a day or two before saying.
So the moron I just bought this motorcycle from, painted it with a terrible cheap almost seemingly latex paint especially on the fuel tank and as soon as I got gas on it it change color and peeled off immediately. Anyway I've been looking for the right paint to use by watching UA-cam videos, no real success yet what I ended up doing is buying some tractor Implement paint, oil-based enamel and thinning/adding it with a little hardener also some naphtha. I was just wondering what paint you would suggest what kind that is that would be very durable and gasoline resistant? thank you for the video it was very enlightening also!
Have a look at my video on 1k vs 2x vs 2K paints. The 2K clear coat is durable and gasoline resistant.
I'm using a HVLP sprayer for a cheap kids boat, I will finish in a matte black......my question. Do I need to sand between coats?? Its an enamel marine paint. Im not looking for a perfect finish. I just want to make sure it gets three coats.Thanks
No. Just spray them within the proper recoat window and you should be fine.
Is three coats the max to get good curing with Polyurethane or can I push 4?
4 is usually fine.
I have a harley benton cst 24 kit I am looking forward to completing.
I am currently planning on grain filling, and using India Ink on the face, then finishing with a satin or matte clear coat finish.
Any recommendations on how to best achieve this, with an India ink paint?
What kind of wood is the face?
I have a huge cabinet I sprayed with rustoleum about 2 weeks ago. Was my first time spraying out of an hlpv gun. I got terrible orange peel and mega runs. 2 questions, I need to ad more coats still. Should I just ad the extra coat, and then color sand and work out the runs? If so do I need to sand the existing coat first for the next coat to stick? Or should I just sand the orange peel and runs down now, then paint and color sand again for the final step?
I would sand it smooth now at 800 grit before moving on. Fix problems early when you can.
@@BradAngove Thanks
Hey Brad! when using nitrocellulose lacquer, Do you recommend sanding the last coat of color if it's not even and adding the last wet coat of color after it before applying the clear? or should I continue building clear coats, level it by sanding, and then add the last coat of clear?
I’d sand the color and if it’s not metallic just move on right to the clear coat.
@@BradAngove Do mean if it's Metallic move on to the clear coats, right?
Yes
The video I needed. Thanks bro..!!!
Glad I could help
Brad, what's your opinion on sanding metallics? There's a lot of people that say you shouldn't sand metallics because the flakes will lose the shine. I'm concerned about one of my projects. I've let it cure for nearly a week and was planning to hit it with 2k clear.
That is sometimes an issue. I occasionally seal in my metallics with a coat of clear right after spraying them. Then I have something to sand.
Anyway, you can probably go ahead and spray the 2K over it as long as it isn’t glossy right now.
In your opinion what is the best glossy sealant in oil based clear coat for non yellowing?
Not sure what you mean about sealant, but the catalyzed polyurethanes (automotive) have great gloss and don’t yellow. See my video in the difference between 1k, 2k, and 2x paints.
@@BradAngove I am going to paint my wooden table with a stain called unicorn spit, which is water based and so I will need a sealer that is oil based and pretty durable since it's my kitchen table.
Brad, Your videos are fantastic!! I'm spraying a guitar headstock that's already had a very nice clear Nitro Lacquer finish on natural maple. Been practicing on a couple pieces of mdf I sealed. I've put 3 coats of Rust-oleum gloss black, 15 min apart then 3 more next day. Had very fine orange peel. 2 days later sanded with 600 dry. It turns to a dark gray after sanding. Next day another 3 coats on it. Do I sand before the clear lacquer or just do the clear? Also, how long between last coat of black & clear?
Thanks!!
Yes, give it a few days and then sand smooth with 800 grit. It will turn grey again, but that will disappear with the clear coat.
@@BradAngove Brad, What an excellent reply and quick as well. I now have the final part of my gameplan to follow. Thanks!!!
What about poly urethane?
If I put a couple coats of stain on the top of my guitar body so far (after sanding of course), would I need to sand a bit again before I add another coat or two of stain, if it's been a while since the first couple coats? I'm wanting to go a bit darker, plus I felt I didn't sand all the surface exactly evenly since the stain seemed to soak in on parts of the top more than others.
It likely wouldn’t hurt to sand a bit first, but I wouldn’t say it’s strictly necessary.
@@BradAngove Thanks! Love your videos and thanks for all the replies!
Please help, so I've painted a cabinet with pasti-kote (enamel?), now I wanna apply a clear (plasti-kote again), do I need to scuff the colour before I do??
For the best adhesion it would be a good idea to scuff first.
Hey Brad, thanks for the great videos. I always use your advice as I am learning to paint guitars. Lacquer, acrylic, enamel,......I get confused fairly easily. I have successfully used Duplicolor paints, per your recommendation. What type of paint is Duplicolor? Can it be sanded to smooth out a slight sag in the paint before spraying clear?Thanks
Duplicolor has a few different types, but they are mostly acrylic lacquer. You can sand smooth before clear coating.
Hi Brad. Right now I'm staining a rosewood neck black with india ink. It looks good, but I feel as though I want to protect it and maybe make it shine a little more. Should I use true oil and gunstock wax like I did on the back of the neck? Or should i varnish it? Should I compound and polish it out, being mindful of the frets of course?
Or something else...?
Thanks.
People thing that fretboard finishes are really complex, but really there’s less magic to it than you would think. You can lacquer, tru-oil, or poly it if you want. Keeping it consistent with the back of the neck makes sense.
It’s up to you whether you feel the need to polish or not. If you keep the finish thin you likely won’t need it.
Hey man, I am new to painting and customizing guitars. I am having trouble with a soft finish. I did a galaxy blue paint job and used Spray Maxx 2k clear can. I went straight from paint to clear after fash time without curing. Now its been 3 days and it is soft, i laid it down on some foam and it left an impression. So, is there a way to harden this? Or do have to start over?
Are you sure you activated the 2K can properly?
Brad Angove I’ve used it before on another project. I made a wood guitar hanger with automotive grade spray paint and used the same clear coat. It hardened very well and looks great.
Brad Angove so about 99% sure
Can I use Nitrocellulose varnish as a sealer? Pls reply
Dude, how many of my videos did you leave this comment on?
Wait.. so. I got confused with lots of info..
If i want to have a glossy finish on my guitar but with a thin layer of protection so the guitar can breathe what should I put on in? And how? Thanks in advance .
There aren’t really any glossy finishes that allow the guitar to “breathe”, but dead wood doesn’t breathe anyway. Regardless, the type of finish you’re probably looking for is a thin coat of nitrocellulose lacquer or oil.
So your saying to sand the base coat, clean it and then shoot it with clear coat? Wouldn't the scratch marks show in the clear tho??
No. Not if you use the appropriate grit. If you don’t sand the clear won’t stick.
i have a jackson randy rhoads FSR (came with natural wood grain from the factory) i applied white primer and 3 coats of paint.. and the wood grain is still visible??! what would i have to do to make the grain disappear and only have a nice white gloss finish?? THANKS YOU!
Usually you would start with grain filler, then move on to your sealer or primer. I have an old video on grain filling with paste wood filler.
Brad Angove thank you!! i will check that out now, thanks for always replying!! you are the greatest ever
Is it ok if I spray poly urethane on top of a laquer?
It depends how long the lacquer has dried. But, if it’s fully dry and you sand it lightly first, then yes.
@@BradAngove is 24 hours good enough drying time of the laquer before sanding and spraying polyurethane clearcoat? And what do you mean on sanding lightly?
More like two weeks. And I mean you need to sand the surface so the new clear will stick, but make sure you don’t sand right through it.
I LOVE LACQUER!! If you watch it closely, you can see it melting into the layer before it. I use it all the time at work. :) :):) Especially the Lacquer thinner. And thanks for the tips.
You can work some serious magic if you know what you're doing with lacquer thinner. You can also absolutely ruin something if you don't haha.
I have a question for you, Brad. Well, two questions, actually. First, what about primer and clear coat? Let's say I was going to spray paint a guitar body. I sand down whatever finish is on the raw wood (doing a mediocre job at best), then apply two coats of primer, two or three coats of paint, then two or three coats of clear, leaving ten or fifteen minutes between each time that I spray. Is this a bad idea, or will it be okay? My second question is, when are you going to work on those kits from SOLO? Been looking forward to that. Thanks! -Brent
+Brent Jones That’s too much paint at once. You can do your primer/sealer, let it dry and sand it, then repeat with colour and then with clear. 4 coats per session max.
I’ve started working on the tele kit already. Should start posting this week or next hopefully.
Hi brad really need your help for.my case, I used rattle can for painting my diecast car. The problem is the paint very easy to peel. This is what i did. I sand the diecast first and than spray the primer paint. After the primer i already try both sand it and not sand it before the next coat. I wait the previous coat completely dry before start the next coat (try dry it with fan or just let it dry)and also try a thin coat for each layer. FYI i work at night and use acrylic paint. Pardon my bad English. Thank you
Is the paint peeling off of the primer, or is everything peeling off of the metal?
Its peeling off the metal..also try without primer,same result. Already try different brand of paint. Is it change the result if i make a box of metal with lamp for drying (like an oven process)?
Are you sure you’re using metal primer? What did you sand the metal to before priming? What did you clean it with? Did you polish anything?
Its just regular multi purpose grey primer. Just found out from you there is primer for metal.. first i use paint removal and clean it with soap. Then sand it with 1000 paper then wash it with water, and dry it. Not use anything for polish
Ok. That’s probably just too smooth. Sand back to the metal. Sand the metal with 320 grit, clean it with wax and grease remover, and try it again.
So I sprayed some interior trim but on the 3rd coat attempted to reposition the item and got a small finger print in it. If I let it dry then wet sand can i get this out. If so what grit would be recommended as I would also need to achieve mechanical adhesion as it would be to dry. Will add one more final coat after ?
Let it dry fully and dry sand with 600 grit.
@@BradAngove Thank you Brad
Sorry if this is basic, but i'm confused now. Do you sand between your last coat of spray paint and your first coat of clear coat? Or do you not sand again from your last coat of spray paint until after you have already put down a coat of clear coat?
It depends on the timing, but usually I will sand after my paint and before my clear yes.
@@BradAngove thanks, I regret not asking this in my previous comment but when you do sand before clear coat, what grit will you usually use?
800 grit
Hello Brad, new to your channel and your vids have been super helpful so far! I have one question tho- after sanding my top coat down (cus scratches) there's this milky white fog on where I sanded (about 3000 grit) Should I buff it out before applying another gloss PU coat, or should I just put another PU coat above it and that white mily sand mark will go away? Many thanks!
If you buff it the new paint won’t stick. In fact, it probably won’t stick to 3000 either. You should sand it all uniformly with 800, clean it, and then add your next coat.
Hey question for you, why would certain spots on my 2nd coat start wrinkling? For info I sanded off old coat before starting and I’m using rustoleom I’ve been waiting 30 mins to let each coat dry before applying the next. Is this a weather issue? I have to spray outdoors due to no garage unfortunately.
Have a look at my video on paint crazing.
Brad Angove thank you sir
Good advice as usual. Thanks Brad.
Do you have any thoughts on using Danish oil as the base coat and then top coating it with Truoil for the final finish on bare wood?
+Crazy Uncle Duke Yes. I think that would probably look great. I’ve done danish oil under tung oil and I was very happy with it.
Thanks!
+Crazy Uncle Duke You’re welcome.
Quick Question: In preparation for respraying and noticed waves in my paint can I use bondo or glazing potty to make correction? or in essence can bondo be used on clear coat?
You’ll need to sand the clear coat first so the filler will stick. After that, you can use it.
Im using Color Tone guitar lacquer, silver metallic. It seems to not feel very smooth after painting so wondering what I should sand/use (800 grit?) prior to clear coating?
800 grit should work well.
@@BradAngove Would you recommend heating the can up in warm water prior to spraying? Wondering if that would improve the feel of the paint after it dries?
It will help it spray better. The feel afterward will mostly be impacted by how heavily you apply it.
@@BradAngove Ah. Would that be applied too light or too heavy that would determine that?
A bit heavier will probably feel smoother.
I used a dupli color perfect match on a pc case but the textur came out like sand paper? Is there a way I can fix this I’m trying to get a smooth service before I use my clear cloat?
Sand it smooth and follow my video on how to get an even coat of paint with spray cans.
Rustoleum 2x ultra cover ENAMEL....got a light coat of primer and a base coat. Do I need to sand that orange peel off before 2nd coat? Should I use 400 grit if I do? Thanks for all your help so far, Brad.
I ended up using a white scotchbrite pad. Also, I figured out that if your paint job ends up with hairs or fibers on it, those with just fall right off during the scotchbrite session. Now onto the next coat, the morning after the base coat.
You don’t necessarily need take out the orange peel, but you do need to sand with something if you’re waiting that day in between. I would stick with the grey scotchbrite. White is a bit too fine to give the finish the tooth it needs so to speak.
Ok thanks for the help.
I have a gritty finish after painting my helmet should I sand it, or will the clear fill it in?
It’s better to get it smooth before clear coat if possible.
Brad Angove awesome, thank you.
Brad Angove if your airbrushing an image, would you clear before paint and then clear again?
It depends. Usually I wouldn’t use an inter coat clear before airbrushing, but if you do it can help to “save your work” so to speak in case you make a mistake.
Do you recommend sanding between paint and clear coats when using metallic paints. ?
Only if you are outside the recoat window. Generally you would want to seal those in with some clear during the normal recoat time to avoid messing up your metallic.
Only if you are outside the recoat window. Generally you would want to seal those in with some clear during the normal recoat time to avoid messing up your metallic.
Brad Gr8 videos u have ! Xlnt & logical . Do you recommend sanding spraypaint before applying rustoleum clear enamel ? I have an outdoor steel platform I built for my tow reciever hitch to carry a motorcycle or whatever needed. Do you think clear enamel would last 1 year in the elements? I painted it with rustoleum professional aluminum finish . I wanted to use 2k & a respirator but the chemicals scared me away 😁< Thankyou > kyle rich california
The clear coat should stick better if you sand generally. How long it lasts will depend on how much abuse it takes. Road grit, etc. hitting it will probably chip away at the paint fairly quickly.
@@BradAngove kyle😁
If you sand a small spot after your first 3 clear coats, can you clearcoat just the small spot or is it best to do the whole thing again and just pay more attention to that small spot?
It depends on what type of paint you’re using.
Hey Brad, great channel & great videos. Question - I’m using an acrylic based lacquer on my guitar. It’s been drying for a week now as I’ve been busy. Should I sand or just apply the clear coat as it is? Will it just melt in?
Acrylics don’t behave quite the same way as typical solvent lacquers. I would give it a light sanding with 800 grit before clear coating.
Thanks Brad, I appreciate the help.
Would a fan help ensure it dries between coats?
+Allan Lajoie generally it helps. It depends a bit on the paint though. Acrylic dries well under airflow. Polyurethane dries well under heat. Lacquer does well in low humidity... I think you get the idea.
Thanks ! Lot`s of help in your videos :)
Thanks for watching