hi thanks for the info.. i know its not advisable to use 1k clear.. but what if i used 1k clear coat, and had a garage to let it dry protected from dust and debri. Any info would be appreciated
A tip for 2k clear coat is to put it in the freezer once you've popped it, used it and need to make it last for another day. It won't harden and you can use it again the next day. It only works for a couple of days but it's great for maximising it's use
@@Phuong_Nguyen_ also I've heard that 2k paints havent existed forever. And a 2k shine is possible with cutting and buffing a regular 1k clear coat. But obviously still isn't as durable as 2k. But the 2k health risk is serious business. Much more serious than usual. I have a beard right now and no respirators.
Thanks a lot for the instruction about this confusing deal. All too often car magazines will take this matter for granted and don't explain. I realize that your channel isn't really dedicated to cars, but the paint products can be. Thanks for the links also. Peace
Very useful. Oddly a few minutes ago I was going through a box of spray paints left by people moving out. I saw a fitting on the bottom of one and had no idea what it was. Thanks for the serendipitous explanation. Expiration time of 12 hrs is a good reason to paint more than one part at a time
Had been searching for info on Rust-Oleum 2X Matte Clear spray and came across your video... clear explanation for beginners like me. Thanks a ton! I knew 2X meant twice the times but wasn't sure of the performance / usage.
great presentation .. I have just used two pack spray can clearcoat and managed to give four headlights a good three coats .. the end result was spectacular .
2k paints/lacquers are used in modern car body repair shops due to their fast curing time and durability, 1k paint is used for colour base coats that are applied on top of the primer or prepped existing paint before 2k lacquer is applied over the top to seal and protect it. 1k base coats dry by solvent evaporation before a 2k is applied that dries by chemical reaction. Good informative vid Brad. 🤘👍🎸
I'm going to agree with you on most point there, but not on the mixing aspect. I think if you take a look at how modern auto body work is done, the colous/base coat are generally 1K. The primers and clear coats are 2K. Clearly 1K and 2K are mixed rather frequently in a paint job.
Interesting - after watching this video I really want to top off a great 1K clear finish with 2K clear - the former came out well but it's ridiculously soft. Would that be possible?
not trying to hate on your video but not once did you mention 2K is deadly if breathed in over long periods of time. 2K contains isocyanates which from what i understand is a close chemical to cyanide, dont believe me? Google it! Also check out isocyanate poisoning This is exactly the reason why my lungs are fucked and im 30 years old, no one bothered to tell me how dangerous that shit is and should only be done with a full body suit while using a air fed mask I think you should edit any of your videos which dont mention this, it may save someones life!
I hope you realize how much time and trouble you've saved me I've watched a 100 videos and still confused this one casually nailed it good job and thank you 🙏
Hi Brad,I wanted to thank you for these videos.They helped me big time on my first build ,a jazz bass.I finished it about a month or so ago but I've been busy moving for the first time in over 25 yrs.so things have been crazy.I just had to get back to you and give thanks.I'm starting a Music Man bass from Solo and this time i think a tung oil finnish is in order.Thanks again.
A 2 k clear is automotive quality clearcoat. Less chance of the solvent in the clear reacting to your paint and softening and wrinkling the paint. 2k is well worth the money.
i do like rustoleum 2x paint in can... much better than others i have used for sure...fast drying and needs no primer..i paint mostly plastic with it ,bonds really well...
Actually spray max if you put it in freezer after use it won't harden. This allows you to use it at a later date if you only need a little. I've used 2k clear 2 weeks apart because of freezer method and results are the same in the end
My question is I do plastic model kits as a hobby. I use Rust-Oleum rattle cans to paint all my kids with. My question is is the 2K clear that you're talking about okay to spray over Rust-Oleum paint. Are there I understand what you're saying that once you break the can to use it it's a one-time thing unless you have a multiple paint jobs ready to go. What do you think.
Any brand of 2k better than the others? Like Eastwood vs spraymax? Thanks for saving me some research time to, I don't paint so I know nothing on this subject.
Hi Brad, I now have a guitar body that has been prepped with sanding, sanding sealer, grain filler/sanding, automotive primer/sanding until reasonably smooth, then sprayed over with a few coats of sparkly gold and finally a transparent acrylic lacquer red for a candy apple red effect. It has been allowed to dry for a couple of months. Will the following steps work (all done on the same day): 1. Lightly scuff up with 600 grit, then respray 1 wet coat of transparent red to restore look. Wait for 15-20 minutes. 2. 1K acrylic lacquer clear (gloss) - for adhesion to the 2K layer [waiting time unknown - if it works, what time would you recommend before step 3?] 3. 2K high gloss polyurethane and sanding until the surface is smooth, then buffing. I live in a country with limited or no access to the products you use. In step 2, people have insisted I should use satin clear spray for adhesion, but I cannot find any here (it seems like the locals do not clearly differentiate between satin and gloss when it comes to aerosol paint). However, I have found 'flat/matte' clear, which I could use instead of gloss for the adhesion layer in 2. Any thoughts?
There is no reason to use a satin clear for step two. Actually there’s not need for step two at all. If you’re acrylic is dry, give it a very very light scuff so you don’t mess with the color depth and then go straight to the 2K.
@@BradAngove Thank you, I am scrapping step 2! The current layer of red though, as it is, could do with just a tad more red as there are places where it is a little bit brighter. Would scuffing very lightly + thin layer of red directly followed by 2K work, or will another light red layer first mean I need to wait for it to dry thoroughly again (if so, approx how long= before scuffing and 2K?
I'm repaint my part of my car hood and I'm having a very hard time finding 2K clear coat in Ontario (Toronto area). Can you tell me where you got yours?
I see you good folk up north have a similar UV dilemma as well. I always thought it was Ultra Violet friendly unlike us in El Paso Tx. All is well i reckon.
Thanks alot for great and to the point video well I have a question is clear coat can be applied to the different color of vehicles after base coat so it can give shiny affect? I have snow flake ford ranger I have some scratches from chips on front bumber Pardon me as Iam begginer in those things 😅
@@BradAngove thanks bro for replying back I saw some videos they are applying first sealer then base code is sealer called primer ? Should be same color code as base coat ? What are benefits to for applying it before base coat.
I've used the Spray max 2K clear 24 hours after mixing with no issues. I've heard up to 48 hour but I don't have and experience with waiting that long. I might just try it with the left of can I just used.
the main issue is uv resistance. 1k is fine for anything thats kept indoors away from a lot of direct sunlight but it will fail in months if its stored outside.
Thanks man. I figured you had a video about this. I bought 2x matte. I'm not even going to try it and order a 2k. Figured with matte I won't have to buff.
Yes, that did help a lot. Now I understand why my gloss takes 3 to 6 days to dry. I might as well buy me a spray gun and a quart of clear /catalyst for $30 have dry in 1 to 2 days.
Cheers for the video Brad. The biggest deal is getting your hands on the 2k. Not stocked in Walmart, Home Depot or even local Automotive parts stores. Also safety is much more important, I believe, because of the added toxicity of the 2k. Just going to order some 2k online and also a sprayer's mask. Saw the comments below regarding safety and toxicity of all of these products and I have emptied two cans of primer and a can of enamel without protection. It's a bike frame and the first I have painted in my life so I will live. Painting outside - I would rather have grit on the frame than hardener in my lungs and I care more about metal protection than perfection. In fact I might brush it on next time ( or more likely use a tiny roller ).
thanks Brad so what brings me here is Im doing the rattle can paint job because I have no shop to work on my project Ive been going to a body shop for the base coat and buying the clear coat the ))65 stuff well its cracked over the winter and I'm not to Impressed so I'm watching your videos to see what to do to not have it happen again I realize I'll have to sand it down to the base coat but if its going to do the same thing again It s a big waste of my life and my money what do you suggest the stuff that has the hardener ?
Ok imma spray paint a proyect car with metallic rust oleum cobalt blue + rust oleum 2X glossy clear coat, (I got 10 cans of each) So I'm not in a rush to get it dry fast or any kind, it's just sitting in my garage, I'm not looking for a professional auto paint shop results with what I spended (I'm realistic), i'm actually looking to stay in a budget, but now my question is: the rust oleum 2X glossy clear coat is going to work? I been reading and watching people just using 2K clear coat cans and getting awesome results and of course I'm looking for a decent result..... so if I have to jump out from my budget I'll do it, but I'll rather to keep on it, so my question is: if really makes a difference on the application or basically the 2X is not going to work on a car project, or it's going to give me a lot of problems if I stick with it?? thank's for the video and 👍
I purchased a couple cracked solar panels... I stumbled upon your video.. Just wondering if you thought any one of your 3 cans of clear coat would be able to adhere to glass.. Fill the voids in the cracks and be uv resistant...In the sun all day... Seems like clear coat could be a great sealer that won't block the sun from doing its job... Any thoughts thank you in advance...
None of them will adhere to glass properly without adhesion promoter. None of them will fill in cracks well. That’s something one would use epoxy or superglue for. Also, the 2K is the most durable for outdoor use, but it also has some built in UV protection.
The 1K is an acrylic lacquer. Lacquer can be catalyzed, or even precatalyzed. The 1K just isn’t catalyzed. You’re correct that the 2K is a urethane, but urethane doesn’t need to be catalyzed. 2K urethanes are catalyzed of course, but not all urethanes are. The 2x is an acrylic enamel.
@@netmatrix75 enamel is oil based (tougher, longer lasting, more shine when polished) Acrylic is what artis use on canvas that can't figure out how to use oil lol. Acrylic is waterbased. When it dries it is more prone to delamation especially if the substrate was not cleaned properly. Now there is the acrylic enamels and acrylic lacquers. They are made not for durability so much as the ease to spray without fuckups. But they are more durable than a straight acrylic and they do not fade out in 4-5 yrs like a straight acrylic does.
@@BradAngove 2X Rustoleum clear-coat ( 3 layers) just dissolved and ruined my paint job from 10 months ago - long enough to cure hard. Came off when trying to remove duct-tape adhesive residue spot on metal flashing. Using Superzilla, not acetone. Superzilla dissolves a lot of paints but not evrything. That's what brings me to search for something like 2K that can hold up to Grafitti removal , adhesives, etc that can really do number on cured paint jobs and surfaces. I will no longer use 2X products. expected them to hold up better.
are the 3m paint respirators 6000 series type, good for these paint jobs and lacquer jobs?..the nose/mouth type with disposable filters on the side..btw, great channel, very informative
Thanks. I’m honestly not super well versed in the specifics of the respirators. I bought a nice full face one with cartridge filters and I can’t smell paint when I’m wearing it. That’s kind of the key I think. Especially if you’re not doing this very often.
I wish I had found this before I started this neck. Didn't know they had X2 w/Kicker in it. No wonder this finish is taking for ever. I once did Fiberglass parts =Kit Cars Boats custom parts for trucks & vans & w/out the kicker that's what we called the catalyst used in the resin & gel coat i.e. for paint in a mold mirror painting. I didn't know this was commercially available. Thx Subbed.
Thanks so much for this! I need to paint a replacement passenger side mirror for my car, and I ordered a spray can of the exact color. But then I learned that I have to use primer and a good clear coat as well. So this replacement mirror is getting a bit expensive! Oh, and you've got a new subscriber!
2k is also much more resilient to solvents than 1k, which is why it works well on cars where the clear is likely to come into contact with solvents like cleaners and gasoline.
I ordered 2k off your link a couple months ago. I am refinishing a jackson strat about 20 years old. I have it sprayed with a satin enamel white. So I need to sand the satin off the enamel before spraying with 2 k or is it ok to just spray it it? Do i need to rough up with sandpaper at all first?
wtf would you paint your roof? Metal? If so 2 k will hold up a lot longer and being outside you wouldn't have to worry to much about ventilation. How ever if you have a metal roof the original finish is most likely e coated. Paint will not hold up to e coat time wise unless the manufacturer went cheap on how much product was laid down on it in production.
@@BradAngove Actually he is probably talking about the metal roof on his home. Ironically just finished a mini house in WA state. They wanted a metal roof due to being in a mountain pass. The only in stock metal roofing around here is ugly brown stuff and green....i think. Long story short i was told you can easily spray paint it. Did a beautiful job with rustoluem 2x charcoal gray....I THOUGHT until seeing this!??? I think i confused 2K with 2x. Crap! Oh well it looked good last i saw it. Shit..😬😂
Glad it looked good last time. I’ve never heard of someone spray can painting the roof of a house before. Very interesting. I think I would go at it with hammered paint. That would look cool; I’ve used it in a custom built awning for a home before.
If applied on aluminum and stainless car trim, will it hold up well when installing the trim on the car? Flexing of trim etc... Wouldn't want to see stress marks on the trim after install.
Thanks for clearing that up. I used the wrong clear coating on a newly sprayed bike a while ago. Which resulting in messing my paintwork up especially on the fuel tank as I dripped fuel on it blown the paint..not happy after all the hard work. Well I'm ready to start again 2k I'd imagine then?
Great video! I just re-spray painted some exterior outdoor carriage lights and was thinking of covering with a clear do to weathering here in FL. Which would you suggest does it matter?
Thank you so much for the informative video but I have one question, will the 2k clear coat stick to stainless steel with a machine finish because I know the 2x definitely will not, I can scratch it off with my fingernails
Brad, I'm repainting my Toyota Tacoma canopy topper. It is for the 6' bed. I'm planning to use Duplicolor Perfect Match 8 oz rattle cans. However, after watching endless UA-cam videos on how to do this, I still can't find out how many cans I will need to do the job. The spray cans themselves do not speculate on how many square feet a can will cover. Any thoughts? Thanks.
I honestly have no idea. That’s a very big surface, and not something people would usually do with spray cans. It would probably take a good quart of paint to do that at least, so wild guess for me would be about 6 cans. Might be more like 8-10.
3:52 ok what does it mean if they are acrylic ? Because they smell strong to be acrylic. Aren't they oil based. ? Thx great information. Keep the videos coming
Hey Brad. Thanks for the video. Got a question that i bet you have the answer to. I have an old Honda Cub scooter and its rusting and i love the look the rust is giving, like a patina look. But A. how do I seal it to keep it from further rusting/retain the look and B.What do I use to not have a shiny glossy look, im hoping for no shine, I guess a matte look.
You would use the spraymax 2K matte finish paint for that. Spray some adhesion promoter on there first. A word of warning though, sealing it may not actually stop the rust from spreading if you don’t actually remove it.
I’m thinkin you would have some good advice. I’ve searched the net and all successfull clawfoots done at home say to use the tub and tile rustoleum kit...which I probably should have used! Doh! I really don’t wanna strip 50 bux worth of paint and numerous hrs of work 😢
Can you recommend a quick drying THICK clear coat? I'm spraying decals on a softball bat (composite) and they need to be flush with the bat once you touch them.
good info! for us mere mortals I think the 1K would be more likely to be used, since it can stay on the shelf longer. 2K seems to be geared more for the larger projects and more professional people that can maximize the can within the time frame before that catalyst goes off completely inside the can.
FYI ordering clear online, I received a warning about the second component in 2K clear you mentioned. "This product contains isocyanates (urethane) which are toxic to the respiratory system. A respirator mask is mandatory when using this product, or any product with isocyanates". I have to check a box, that I agree to use a respirator for this product.
Brad when I am touring I always watch your channel and so on I do all the work on all my touring banjos but as finishing goes you have the best videos a great advice on your channel thanks for all the great videos you do. Also you are a good guy you reply to your comments, I do the same thing on my channel thanks and keep up the great work. You are a good guy. PS you are the one that turned me on to Spray Max 2K Clear I love it! thanks.
Great video and explanation. I am doing a few small motorcycle parts. Gonna use the Matte clear 2k. Wanna do 2 coats. Does the first coat need to be dry? If so, At 70 degrees how long do i need to wait?
Hi, I need to spray in south Florida. I know humidity is bad but I have no choice. I’m going to do it in a small an open air parking garage. Any tips for me? Maybe hold the can a little closer to object? Also, what is ideal time after last paint coat to spray clear? If I get a paint glop and let it dry and sand out, should I do another light coat of paint before I spray clear? I thought you wanted paint somewhat dry, but not totally dry when you spray. Sorry for so many questions. Thanks for the videos!
Do you have an AC unit that you can use to pull humidity from a small space? The answer to the other questions depends on what type of paint you’re spraying. What are you using?
Brad Angove Thanks for the reply. Rustoleum 2X Soft Iron of the metallic line. I don’t have power where I’m spraying. I could get small battery operated fan but it’s a pretty open space so not sure if that would help or not.
Would you recommend using heat, such as a heat gun for curing, or even slightly warming the metal prior to paint. I want to paint and clearcoat my wheels, and as the professionals use ovens I assume it bakes it harder and makes it more durable. Any reason why I wouldn't want to do this?
It depends on the paint. Enamel scan be baked on, and catalyzed polyurethanes cure quicker in hotter conditions with low humidity. Heat softens lacquer and can damage acrylics fairly easily.
I pretty much use a respirator when spraying any type of clear coat and paint spray bottle anything sprayed paint period. I wear the two filter pad mask that painters use. I just recently used Rusteluems 2X Clear coat finish to redo a Carbon Fiber hood and it does seem to be looking really good. You will need wet sanding though after the first three coats and then additional 4 coats after to get a very clear clear finish. Although drying time on these type are longer then the type that have the two in one combo clears with the activators those harden up very very fast.
@@BradAngove I'd love to paint it factory color black like it is now but I've looked all over and can't find the paint code. Mines a 2003 tahoe by the way. So I figured I'd get some rustoleom turbo gloss black to re paint my hood and driver side door, because that's where the paint fade is at.
I’m just trying to figure out what type of paint you’re using so I can tell you how long to wait before applying the clear. Spraymax has paint available to match various auto finishes if you find a place that does that.
@@BradAngove lol I told you already bro. I got the rustoleom turbo gloss black spray can.. Btw I appreciate you getting back to me since this video is pretty old
I tried to put that "Spray Maxx" brand 2K over a silver base coat once on my motorcycle and it looked really awesome, that was until I decided to power wash it. It took the clear right off completely and left the silver base looking like dull primer, and the bike no longer got any attention at gas stations...😢 Should I have done some sanding with 400 grit to the base coat before I sprayed the clear coat on to give that clear something to "grab ahold of"??? Because that's what I'm going to try to do this time around.
@@BradAngove This time round (3rd), I took the tank back down to bare metal, then put on 3 coats self etching primer, then put on 3 coats of Rust-Oleum silver, then put on 3 coats of Rust-Oleum silver glitter, then put on 25 coats of Rust-Oleum 2X clear, (about 6 cans), then I block sanded all the runs down just to flat with 320 grit, then hand sanded with 400 grit, then finished sanding with #0000 steel wool, and that's where I'm at right now. Now is where I'm going to try to put on the Spray Max 2K clear coat, and I have bought 2 cans of that.... Jeez, it looked so darn good before all the sanding I almost put the bike back together like that, even with all the runs... But I need to have some kind of resistance to gasoline, beings it a motorcycle gas tank.
@@BradAngove Thanks Brad, I followed the instructions on the can, the color coat went on great and was a good match with a can made up by a paint specialist, they recomended the can of clear coat to finish with. I had two attempts with the clear both times were a fail and had to be rubbed down with new color. After the 2nd fail I gave up and the car panel is now just in color without clear. I have no spray area and have to wait for a warm no wind day. I don't think there was any spatter on my finger but it was last summer when I tried to spray it.
Ok. If the nozzle was clean and your finger was also clean there must have been something wrong with the can. They don’t usually spatter. Anyway, the 2k is definitely the preferred option for a car panel.
Hi Brad, I was hoping to mask around two decals on a carbon fibre motorcycle mudguard. Do you think I will get away without keying the surfaces? Would the lacquer edge be smoothable?
You’re trying to avoid spraying the decals? You need to sand any area that you’re actually painting. Probably best to clear coat the whole thing after (removing any masking beforehand).
Super helpful video! Need an expert opinion from a fellow Canadian. Daughter painted a guitar body for me. I put about 24 coats of spray on varnish that would not hurt her acrylic artwork. Not really happy with the matte finish and I am afraid to sand it. SO thin! I'd like to put a few coats of spray clear coat on it. After I let the varnish dry for a very long time, do you see any issue with using a 1K or 2K clearcoat over cheap Michael's varnish? Love to hear what you think. Best wishes from Oshawa.
@@BradAngove thanks so much! I have a little piece of wood I sprayed with the varnish. Being a rookie, I picked a varnish that would agree with the acrylic paint and not a good clear coat. Lesson learned. Thanks for your answer. I have subscribed to your channel as it is terrific! (I also may have to start again if this goes south. 😀) I'll do it your way if I do!!!
This is the first video I've watched from you Brad. I''ve spent A LOT of time just simply trying to figure out the right method to spray a new bumper that will last and, yes, look right. I've subscribed immediately simply for the part around 4:15 where you laugh and say K and X are different letters. LMAO. Yes, all the new jargon (and myriad of opinion) has confused me greatly, but after this vid, I KNOW I can learn from you. Thanks for the video. Look forward to watching more of your stuff.
I am painting my truck in sections with Rust-Oleum Advanced Glossy Enamel. When I am all done, can I spray the truck with the 2K clear to protect the paint? It takes a while for this paint to cure but it sprays really nice.
Hi brad , I have a dash bezel and I painted it Rust-oleum(black santim and silver Hammerred) now I need to know what kind ( Brand name )clear coat I can apply over Rost-oleum spray paint.if possible 1K. Thanks 🙏
I've been conspiring the 2K for my kayak. The guy who built it (wood strip sealed in fiber glass) used the 2k clear as a finish. Well it's time for a new coat or two. Two questions, first, what are does one can cover and two, how many coats do you recommend? While were are at it, how much time between coats?
If you’re just doing a refresh I’d say 3 coats. It should say on the can how much it covers; I’m not sure. My guess is that you’ll beed about 3 cans for a kayak. Time between coats depends on temperature and humidity, but it’s usually about 10 minutes for that stuff.
Great video !! How long will a 2K can spray car last on a car finish?? compared to taking a car to a shop and having them do it in the shop for a new clear coat?? Will a sprayed car last on a car just as long as one done in a shop? Thanks for all replies in advance !!
@BradAngove - thanks for the tips! Question: I finished a TELE with Dupicolor metallic paint and then covered with one can Spray Max 2K glamor, the surface is rough, should I sand with 600 grit and re-apply clear or add more clear until its smooth and covers the rough areas and then sand & polish? thanks!
Hi, Brad. I haven't used rattle cans in about 60 years and I recently bought a few of them for painting a fender and number cover on my 2006 CTS. I figured that the color match would be the closest. My car has low miles and has been garaged. (79K miles). It turns out that the ACDelco paint is enamel and I bought their clear coat. Now I've learned that 2K lacquer is much better for gloss and longevity, What can I do to get that kind of result from an enamel clear coat? Can it even be done? My existing paint is quite glossy. I do use a couple of pro paint buffers on the car from time to time. A 3" and 5 1/2" models. Any help would ve appreciated. PS; I suppose I could wait the 90 days for the base coat to cure completely if necessary. Ron
Enamel tends to have reasonable durability. I think if you just let that cure completely and sand and polish it will probably be passable. At least for a reasonable period of time.
Quick question bro and thank you for your videos I just had a new custom boat trailer made and painted with no clear coat. What clear coat spray can do you recommend me to use. It’s a boat trailer and I will not be entering it into any car shows or boat shows if you know what I mean. I just want something to protect the paint from water and sun! Thank you!!! Miguel
My stock machine rims on my 2006 Silverado crewcab look a little old now I dont want to take them to a shop and they come out looking like chrome iv notice when I'm washing the truck and the rims are wet they look new so I was thinking of just putting clear on them to look new would the rustoleum clear 2x be ok ? Sounds like you said there the same thickness of the the other expensive cans
I know this is 4 years old, but can your recommend a 2k clear coat with uv protection? Just painted my golf cart and i need to clear coat it. During camping season it stays outdoors 24/7 and i dont want the paint to fade or a bad clear coat. Thank you
Clear coats with good uv protection are not cheap. If you have a gun you can try one of the less expensive lines made by PPG. They tend to be reliable and broadly available. If you want to use spray cans then the spraymax 2K is about as good as it gets.
@BradAngove thank you. I did order the spraymax 2k , it should be here any day now but i have to wait to spray it we have -13 degrees here for a few days lol
Hey guys, if you want to get your hands on some 2K clear, here are affiliate links:
For the gloss: amzn.to/2CwiZO1
and the matte: amzn.to/2CH8Ono
Which one do you think most closely resembles new car headlights, gloss or matte?
Gloss will have more clarity. That will better emulate how headlights come.
do they make comfort handles for those cans?
I’m not sure. I’ve never purchased one.
hi thanks for the info.. i know its not advisable to use 1k clear.. but what if i used 1k clear coat, and had a garage to let it dry protected from dust and debri. Any info would be appreciated
A tip for 2k clear coat is to put it in the freezer once you've popped it, used it and need to make it last for another day. It won't harden and you can use it again the next day. It only works for a couple of days but it's great for maximising it's use
Is 2k that much better than the stuff at the department stores?
@Phuong_Nguyen_ it depends on what you’re using it for, but the short answer is yes it is superior in many aspects of its performance.
I find putting used 2k spray can next to my frozen vegetables is safest way to live. Lol
@@Phuong_Nguyen_ also I've heard that 2k paints havent existed forever. And a 2k shine is possible with cutting and buffing a regular 1k clear coat. But obviously still isn't as durable as 2k. But the 2k health risk is serious business. Much more serious than usual. I have a beard right now and no respirators.
Yes. Very much so. @@Phuong_Nguyen_
"Clear" things up...I see what you did there...
I came to the comment section for that comment
Marvelous
Hay, I was going to say that.
🤣
Thanks a lot for the instruction about this confusing deal. All too often car magazines will take this matter for granted and don't explain. I realize that your channel isn't really dedicated to cars, but the paint products can be. Thanks for the links also. Peace
Thanks William. A lot of the painting that I do is also applicable in the automotive context.
Very useful. Oddly a few minutes ago I was going through a box of spray paints left by people moving out. I saw a fitting on the bottom of one and had no idea what it was. Thanks for the serendipitous explanation. Expiration time of 12 hrs is a good reason to paint more than one part at a time
Realistically the pot life after activation is probably closer to 24 hours, but it’s still good to have a couple items lined up.
Had been searching for info on Rust-Oleum 2X Matte Clear spray and came across your video... clear explanation for beginners like me. Thanks a ton! I knew 2X meant twice the times but wasn't sure of the performance / usage.
Glad I could help
great presentation .. I have just used two pack spray can clearcoat and managed to give four headlights a good three coats .. the end result was spectacular .
2k paints/lacquers are used in modern car body repair shops due to their fast curing time and durability, 1k paint is used for colour base coats that are applied on top of the primer or prepped existing paint before 2k lacquer is applied over the top to seal and protect it. 1k base coats dry by solvent evaporation before a 2k is applied that dries by chemical reaction. Good informative vid Brad. 🤘👍🎸
I'm going to agree with you on most point there, but not on the mixing aspect. I think if you take a look at how modern auto body work is done, the colous/base coat are generally 1K. The primers and clear coats are 2K. Clearly 1K and 2K are mixed rather frequently in a paint job.
Interesting - after watching this video I really want to top off a great 1K clear finish with 2K clear - the former came out well but it's ridiculously soft. Would that be possible?
+CrazyTechLab It’s definitely possible. That’s how it’s usually done.
not trying to hate on your video but not once did you mention 2K is deadly if breathed in over long periods of time. 2K contains isocyanates which from what i understand is a close chemical to cyanide, dont believe me? Google it! Also check out isocyanate poisoning
This is exactly the reason why my lungs are fucked and im 30 years old, no one bothered to tell me how dangerous that shit is and should only be done with a full body suit while using a air fed mask
I think you should edit any of your videos which dont mention this, it may save someones life!
Izophex, you know you posted this exact same comment twice, right?
This stuff is the best stuff on the market for DIY jobs! I’ve used this clear many times and you can’t beat it for the moneyb
At last I found a vid that actually points out the difference between 1K and 2K
Yes, very true. I couldn't figure it out on my own, searched around and this is pretty much it. May add it was very well executed. Thank you kindly.
Thanks guys.
and still i dont know what the difference is in terms of finished product...
I hope you realize how much time and trouble you've saved me I've watched a 100 videos and still confused this one casually nailed it good job and thank you 🙏
Glad I could help
I caught that too..."clear" things up! Haha, love ya Brad!
Hey, thanks for the information. Great as always!
Thanks, Pam
Thanks Pam haha.
Hi Brad,I wanted to thank you for these videos.They helped me big time on my first build ,a jazz bass.I finished it about a month or so ago but I've been busy moving for the first time in over 25 yrs.so things have been crazy.I just had to get back to you and give thanks.I'm starting a Music Man bass from Solo and this time i think a tung oil finnish is in order.Thanks again.
Thanks Kev. I hope the build went well!
A 2 k clear is automotive quality clearcoat. Less chance of the solvent in the clear reacting to your paint and softening and wrinkling the paint. 2k is well worth the money.
i do like rustoleum 2x paint in can... much better than others i have used for sure...fast drying and needs no primer..i paint mostly plastic with it ,bonds really well...
Short, clear (pun intended 😉), and strait to the point.
This is exactly what we want.
Fantastic Info. I just bought a can of 2X thinking it means twice as much product will be applied, thus thicker harder better clear coat.
It is supposed to cover more, so I may go on thicker. Not harder though.
Simple and straight to the point. Really helped clear things up.
is that supposed to be a pun?
I hope so!
Actually spray max if you put it in freezer after use it won't harden. This allows you to use it at a later date if you only need a little. I've used 2k clear 2 weeks apart because of freezer method and results are the same in the end
Cool thank you for this video !
My question is I do plastic model kits as a hobby. I use Rust-Oleum rattle cans to paint all my kids with. My question is is the 2K clear that you're talking about okay to spray over Rust-Oleum paint. Are there I understand what you're saying that once you break the can to use it it's a one-time thing unless you have a multiple paint jobs ready to go.
What do you think.
It depends on the paint, but if you mean the rustoleum painters touch stuff, yes I’ve done that several times and it works well.
Any brand of 2k better than the others? Like Eastwood vs spraymax? Thanks for saving me some research time to, I don't paint so I know nothing on this subject.
I haven’t used Eastwood’s. I imagine they’re quite similar.
Perfect info and to the point. Thanks
What does the numbers on the can mean?
Which numbers? The 2K means
2 component. The 2x means double coverage.
Wow! Thanks for that. I never even heard of 1K or 2K before.
Glad I could provide some new info.
Just proves how fast everything actually moving. I try to keep up myself. Not too many people point things out no more.
Hi Brad, I now have a guitar body that has been prepped with sanding, sanding sealer, grain filler/sanding, automotive primer/sanding until reasonably smooth, then sprayed over with a few coats of sparkly gold and finally a transparent acrylic lacquer red for a candy apple red effect. It has been allowed to dry for a couple of months.
Will the following steps work (all done on the same day):
1. Lightly scuff up with 600 grit, then respray 1 wet coat of transparent red to restore look. Wait for 15-20 minutes.
2. 1K acrylic lacquer clear (gloss) - for adhesion to the 2K layer [waiting time unknown - if it works, what time would you recommend before step 3?]
3. 2K high gloss polyurethane and sanding until the surface is smooth, then buffing.
I live in a country with limited or no access to the products you use. In step 2, people have insisted I should use satin clear spray for adhesion, but I cannot find any here (it seems like the locals do not clearly differentiate between satin and gloss when it comes to aerosol paint). However, I have found 'flat/matte' clear, which I could use instead of gloss for the adhesion layer in 2.
Any thoughts?
There is no reason to use a satin clear for step two. Actually there’s not need for step two at all. If you’re acrylic is dry, give it a very very light scuff so you don’t mess with the color depth and then go straight to the 2K.
@@BradAngove Thank you, I am scrapping step 2!
The current layer of red though, as it is, could do with just a tad more red as there are places where it is a little bit brighter. Would scuffing very lightly + thin layer of red directly followed by 2K work, or will another light red layer first mean I need to wait for it to dry thoroughly again (if so, approx how long= before scuffing and 2K?
I'm repaint my part of my car hood and I'm having a very hard time finding 2K clear coat in Ontario (Toronto area). Can you tell me where you got yours?
I got mine from carmax.
Amazon
I see you good folk up north have a similar UV dilemma as well. I always thought it was Ultra Violet friendly unlike us in El Paso Tx. All is well i reckon.
The sun does venture up here believe it or not haha.
ebay
Thanks alot for great and to the point video well I have a question is clear coat can be applied to the different color of vehicles after base coat so it can give shiny affect?
I have snow flake ford ranger I have some scratches from chips on front bumber
Pardon me as Iam begginer in those things 😅
Yes that is what clear coat is for essentially.
@@BradAngove thanks bro for replying back I saw some videos they are applying first sealer then base code is sealer called primer ? Should be same color code as base coat ? What are benefits to for applying it before base coat.
@simomustafah have a look at my video on sealer vs primer. It’s to help seal wood or to help with adhesion and surface prep on other surfaces.
Straight to the point, I like it! Thank you this definitely helped me. Also, 1000th comment lol...
Thanks. That’s a lot of comments haha.
Great info
Can thus product be used on stainless running boards?
If they are prepped properly.
Excellent informational vid, thanks!😎👍🏻
I've used the Spray max 2K clear 24 hours after mixing with no issues. I've heard up to 48 hour but I don't have and experience with waiting that long. I might just try it with the left of can I just used.
You forgot to mention 2K clear is solvent resistant. Huge difference with that alone.
Huge
the main issue is uv resistance. 1k is fine for anything thats kept indoors away from a lot of direct sunlight but it will fail in months if its stored outside.
Thanks man. I figured you had a video about this. I bought 2x matte. I'm not even going to try it and order a 2k. Figured with matte I won't have to buff.
That’s true. You can’t buff matte.
Thanks!! Cleared up a lot of confusion between 1K and 2k!!
Glad I could help.
Yes, that did help a lot. Now I understand why my gloss takes 3 to 6 days to dry.
I might as well buy me a spray gun and a quart of clear /catalyst for $30 have dry in 1 to 2 days.
Cheers for the video Brad.
The biggest deal is getting your hands on the 2k. Not stocked in Walmart, Home Depot or even local Automotive parts stores. Also safety is much more important, I believe, because of the added toxicity of the 2k. Just going to order some 2k online and also a sprayer's mask. Saw the comments below regarding safety and toxicity of all of these products and I have emptied two cans of primer and a can of enamel without protection. It's a bike frame and the first I have painted in my life so I will live. Painting outside - I would rather have grit on the frame than hardener in my lungs and I care more about metal protection than perfection. In fact I might brush it on next time ( or more likely use a tiny roller ).
Enamel is a reasonable option in lieu of the 2k if you’re using it mostly to protect metal. You still need to protect your lungs though.
Thank you for clearing that up (see what I did there haha). Yeah I always thought rustoleum 2x was the same too lol
I think too many people gloss over the differences (oh ya, I see what you did there).
thanks Brad so what brings me here is Im doing the rattle can paint job because I have no shop to work on my project Ive been going to a body shop for the base coat and buying the clear coat the ))65 stuff well its cracked over the winter and I'm not to Impressed so I'm watching your videos to see what to do to not have it happen again I realize I'll have to sand it down to the base coat but if its going to do the same thing again It s a big waste of my life and my money what do you suggest the stuff that has the hardener ?
What are you painting?
Ok imma spray paint a proyect car with metallic rust oleum cobalt blue + rust oleum 2X glossy clear coat, (I got 10 cans of each)
So I'm not in a rush to get it dry fast or any kind, it's just sitting in my garage, I'm not looking for a professional auto paint shop results with what I spended (I'm realistic), i'm actually looking to stay in a budget, but now my question is: the rust oleum 2X glossy clear coat is going to work? I been reading and watching people just using 2K clear coat cans and getting awesome results and of course I'm looking for a decent result..... so if I have to jump out from my budget I'll do it, but I'll rather to keep on it, so my question is: if really makes a difference on the application or basically the 2X is not going to work on a car project, or it's going to give me a lot of problems if I stick with it?? thank's for the video and 👍
The 2k is much better for automotive applications. It is harder, more uv resistant, and is resistant to things like gasoline if you spill it on there.
Thanks for this video. How long should you wait for 1k clear before you can wet sand?
I would give it at least two days. 5 would be safer. That being said, sometimes I bend the rules and sand after a few hours haha.
Clear and to the Point!! I like that.
I purchased a couple cracked solar panels... I stumbled upon your video.. Just wondering if you thought any one of your 3 cans of clear coat would be able to adhere to glass.. Fill the voids in the cracks and be uv resistant...In the sun all day... Seems like clear coat could be a great sealer that won't block the sun from doing its job... Any thoughts thank you in advance...
None of them will adhere to glass properly without adhesion promoter. None of them will fill in cracks well. That’s something one would use epoxy or superglue for. Also, the 2K is the most durable for outdoor use, but it also has some built in UV protection.
1K clear is a nitrate aka laquer it can not be catalized, 2k is a urethane it must be catalized the 2x is oilbased enamle.
The 1K is an acrylic lacquer. Lacquer can be catalyzed, or even precatalyzed. The 1K just isn’t catalyzed.
You’re correct that the 2K is a urethane, but urethane doesn’t need to be catalyzed. 2K urethanes are catalyzed of course, but not all urethanes are.
The 2x is an acrylic enamel.
@@BradAngove Enamel seems to be more tougher than acrylic. Is spray can 2K tougher than spray can enamel? As in durability.
Generally yes. The 2x is an acrylic enamel, and the 2k is tougher.
@@netmatrix75 enamel is oil based (tougher, longer lasting, more shine when polished) Acrylic is what artis use on canvas that can't figure out how to use oil lol. Acrylic is waterbased. When it dries it is more prone to delamation especially if the substrate was not cleaned properly. Now there is the acrylic enamels and acrylic lacquers. They are made not for durability so much as the ease to spray without fuckups. But they are more durable than a straight acrylic and they do not fade out in 4-5 yrs like a straight acrylic does.
@@BradAngove 2X Rustoleum clear-coat ( 3 layers) just dissolved and ruined my paint job from 10 months ago - long enough to cure hard. Came off when trying to remove duct-tape adhesive residue spot on metal flashing. Using Superzilla, not acetone. Superzilla dissolves a lot of paints but not evrything. That's what brings me to search for something like 2K that can hold up to Grafitti removal , adhesives, etc that can really do number on cured paint jobs and surfaces. I will no longer use 2X products. expected them to hold up better.
are the 3m paint respirators 6000 series type, good for these paint jobs and lacquer jobs?..the nose/mouth type with disposable filters on the side..btw, great channel, very informative
Thanks. I’m honestly not super well versed in the specifics of the respirators. I bought a nice full face one with cartridge filters and I can’t smell paint when I’m wearing it. That’s kind of the key I think. Especially if you’re not doing this very often.
Looks like its the full video this time brad !! he he he Thanks for the video :)
Haha yeah, I'm working with a new program these days. I think it's giving me better quality, but I still have some learning to do haha.
you'll get there brad !! ;)
+terrybear haha one can only hope.
I wish I had found this before I started this neck. Didn't know they had X2 w/Kicker in it. No wonder this finish is taking for ever. I once did Fiberglass parts =Kit Cars Boats custom parts for trucks & vans & w/out the kicker that's what we called the catalyst used in the resin & gel coat i.e. for paint in a mold mirror painting. I didn't know this was commercially available. Thx Subbed.
+Watchman4u Well, hopefully it helps form next time. Thanks for watching.
Great video thanks. Can I ask, can you spray 2k clear in a can over 1k basecoat in a can? If so, how long should I wait in between?
Yes. I like to give the 1k a few days, but it depends on the type.
Wish I had found this earlier. good info.
Hopefully it can help out in future.
Thanks so much for this! I need to paint a replacement passenger side mirror for my car, and I ordered a spray can of the exact color. But then I learned that I have to use primer and a good clear coat as well. So this replacement mirror is getting a bit expensive! Oh, and you've got a new subscriber!
I’m glad the video provided some useful information.
Then there’s me with 1x clear
Hi Brad....im in Ottawa Canada....where did you buy the 2k?
also is it ok on plastic models?
Thanks.
I picked mine up through Carmax. I think Canada Car Colour should also have it. It works well on plastic.
2k is also much more resilient to solvents than 1k, which is why it works well on cars where the clear is likely to come into contact with solvents like cleaners and gasoline.
Indeed. It’s pretty much completely solvent resistant. 1k certainly isn’t.
I ordered 2k off your link a couple months ago. I am refinishing a jackson strat about 20 years old. I have it sprayed with a satin enamel white. So I need to sand the satin off the enamel before spraying with 2 k or is it ok to just spray it it? Do i need to rough up with sandpaper at all first?
Just rough it up a bit with 800 grit.
Good shit I almost painted my roof with that 2x shit thanks
That would have been unfortunate.
wtf would you paint your roof? Metal? If so 2 k will hold up a lot longer and being outside you wouldn't have to worry to much about ventilation. How ever if you have a metal roof the original finish is most likely e coated. Paint will not hold up to e coat time wise unless the manufacturer went cheap on how much product was laid down on it in production.
Pretty sure he means the roof of his car bud.
@@BradAngove Actually he is probably talking about the metal roof on his home. Ironically just finished a mini house in WA state. They wanted a metal roof due to being in a mountain pass. The only in stock metal roofing around here is ugly brown stuff and green....i think. Long story short i was told you can easily spray paint it. Did a beautiful job with rustoluem 2x charcoal gray....I THOUGHT until seeing this!??? I think i confused 2K with 2x. Crap! Oh well it looked good last i saw it. Shit..😬😂
Glad it looked good last time. I’ve never heard of someone spray can painting the roof of a house before. Very interesting. I think I would go at it with hammered paint. That would look cool; I’ve used it in a custom built awning for a home before.
If applied on aluminum and stainless car trim, will it hold up well when installing the trim on the car? Flexing of trim etc... Wouldn't want to see stress marks on the trim after install.
The 2K is what they use on most car parts.
Now I'm confused about something I never cared about in the first place.
Thanks for clearing that up.
I used the wrong clear coating on a newly sprayed bike a while ago. Which resulting in messing my paintwork up especially on the fuel tank as I dripped fuel on it blown the paint..not happy after all the hard work.
Well I'm ready to start again
2k I'd imagine then?
Yes, the 2k is fuel proof.
This paint that is two part and it can kill you if you do not take precautions!
Not joking.
Indeed. Isocyanates and whatnot.
What do you mean?
It’s toxic.
plus its check up a lot of paint@@BradAngove
It’s what?
Great video. Do you have any videos or can you make one using the. 2k matte clear. I had some issues using it and I’m looking for some help.
I’m hoping to do one with that at some point here. I don’t have one yet.
component is spelled with a "c" not a "k" though.
That’s very observant haha.
Haha Brad’s response is brilliant!
Maybe it's German? Mercedes Benz calls blowers "kompressors", the "K" in the SLK. Komponent?
Yes in German is komponente but this hurr is uhMurca sun!
Meh. I’m in Canada.
Great video! I just re-spray painted some exterior outdoor carriage lights and was thinking of covering with a clear do to weathering here in FL. Which would you suggest does it matter?
They should all do the job, but the 2K is designed to hold up outdoors.
Who the hell is munching on cottonballs in the background?
Thank you so much for the informative video but I have one question, will the 2k clear coat stick to stainless steel with a machine finish because I know the 2x definitely will not, I can scratch it off with my fingernails
You need to abrade it first and then spray some adhesion promoter before hitting it with the 2k.
Brad Angove - thank you so much for your time , I will try that out, again thanks and God Bless.
What would be appropriate to use for polished aluminum valve cover on a motorcycle?
The 2K. But you’ll need to sand the aluminum to have this stuff stick properly.
great info. would the 1k harden to the same degree of my cars factory clear at some point?
Not quite. At least not in my experience.
Brad, I'm repainting my Toyota Tacoma canopy topper. It is for the 6' bed. I'm planning to use Duplicolor Perfect Match 8 oz rattle cans. However, after watching endless UA-cam videos on how to do this, I still can't find out how many cans I will need to do the job. The spray cans themselves do not speculate on how many square feet a can will cover. Any thoughts? Thanks.
I honestly have no idea. That’s a very big surface, and not something people would usually do with spray cans. It would probably take a good quart of paint to do that at least, so wild guess for me would be about 6 cans. Might be more like 8-10.
Heck now I am more confused about clear coatings; this also reminds me how hard it was fighting one's self when you are young
3:52 ok what does it mean if they are acrylic ? Because they smell strong to be acrylic. Aren't they oil based. ? Thx great information. Keep the videos coming
There are a number of different types of acrylic. These are not water based.
@@BradAngove Thanks . So what about acrylic urethane . Is it oil based.
It’s an acrylic designed to emulate a urethane.
@@BradAngove how can I learn more about urethane and acrylics??
Off the internet probably.
Hey Brad. Thanks for the video. Got a question that i bet you have the answer to. I have an old Honda Cub scooter and its rusting and i love the look the rust is giving, like a patina look. But A. how do I seal it to keep it from further rusting/retain the look and B.What do I use to not have a shiny glossy look, im hoping for no shine, I guess a matte look.
You would use the spraymax 2K matte finish paint for that. Spray some adhesion promoter on there first. A word of warning though, sealing it may not actually stop the rust from spreading if you don’t actually remove it.
Brad Angove thank you bud. And thanks for your helpful videos. Great work.
Hey great video! Quick question am i right in saying an epoxy 2k clear coat is less harmful than a PU 2k as it doesnt contain any isocyanates?
If it doesn’t contain any isocyanates then yes, I believe that’s correct.
Hi Brad, can you do a video on the type of respirator mask to use? The 3M products? Filter types? P100? Etc.
I’m no expert on that. The 2K stuff should actually be done while wearing an air-fed mask.
I’m thinkin you would have some good advice. I’ve searched the net and all successfull clawfoots done at home say to use the tub and tile rustoleum kit...which I probably should have used! Doh! I really don’t wanna strip 50 bux worth of paint and numerous hrs of work 😢
Start by having a look at my video on “why is my paint crazing”.
How many coats did you do? How long in between coats? When did you sand?
Can you recommend a quick drying THICK clear coat? I'm spraying decals on a softball bat (composite) and they need to be flush with the bat once you touch them.
Do you have a spray gun?
good info! for us mere mortals I think the 1K would be more likely to be used, since it can stay on the shelf longer. 2K seems to be geared more for the larger projects and more professional people that can maximize the can within the time frame before that catalyst goes off completely inside the can.
That’s correct. However, you may want to have a look at the car-rep 2K that I have demoed more recently. It doesn’t have the shelf life issue.
FYI ordering clear online, I received a warning about the second component in 2K clear you mentioned. "This product contains isocyanates (urethane) which are toxic to the respiratory system. A respirator mask is mandatory when using this product, or any product with isocyanates". I have to check a box, that I agree to use a respirator for this product.
Sounds about right. You should absolutely be using a respirator with any aerosol paint, but that goes double for 2K products like this one.
@brad angrove... Thank you for your help and quick response.
+Sergio Barrena You’re welcome.
Brad when I am touring I always watch your channel and so on I do all the work on all my touring banjos but as finishing goes you have the best videos a great advice on your channel thanks for all the great videos you do. Also you are a good guy you reply to your comments, I do the same thing on my channel thanks and keep up the great work. You are a good guy. PS you are the one that turned me on to Spray Max 2K Clear I love it! thanks.
Thanks Todd. I’m glad you like the videos and that I was able to show you a good clear that comes in a spray can.
Kustom Canz do good paint I used the silver prism on my wheels and they look sweet thank you Kustom Canz 👍🏼💯🏍
Great video and explanation. I am doing a few small motorcycle parts. Gonna use the Matte clear 2k. Wanna do 2 coats. Does the first coat need to be dry? If so, At 70 degrees how long do i need to wait?
If you’re just doing two coats you can do them 10-15 minutes apart.
Hi, I need to spray in south Florida. I know humidity is bad but I have no choice. I’m going to do it in a small an open air parking garage. Any tips for me? Maybe hold the can a little closer to object?
Also, what is ideal time after last paint coat to spray clear? If I get a paint glop and let it dry and sand out, should I do another light coat of paint before I spray clear? I thought you wanted paint somewhat dry, but not totally dry when you spray. Sorry for so many questions. Thanks for the videos!
Do you have an AC unit that you can use to pull humidity from a small space? The answer to the other questions depends on what type of paint you’re spraying. What are you using?
Brad Angove Thanks for the reply. Rustoleum 2X Soft Iron of the metallic line. I don’t have power where I’m spraying. I could get small battery operated fan but it’s a pretty open space so not sure if that would help or not.
Unfortunately, although they assist with airflow fans don’t pull humidity. You would need either a dehumidifier or an AC unit.
Would you recommend using heat, such as a heat gun for curing, or even slightly warming the metal prior to paint. I want to paint and clearcoat my wheels, and as the professionals use ovens I assume it bakes it harder and makes it more durable. Any reason why I wouldn't want to do this?
It depends on the paint. Enamel scan be baked on, and catalyzed polyurethanes cure quicker in hotter conditions with low humidity. Heat softens lacquer and can damage acrylics fairly easily.
I pretty much use a respirator when spraying any type of clear coat and paint spray bottle anything sprayed paint period. I wear the two filter pad mask that painters use. I just recently used Rusteluems 2X Clear coat finish to redo a Carbon Fiber hood and it does seem to be looking really good. You will need wet sanding though after the first three coats and then additional 4 coats after to get a very clear clear finish. Although drying time on these type are longer then the type that have the two in one combo clears with the activators those harden up very very fast.
Im gonna be spray painting my truck with cans soon I just g9t my 2k clear... How and when should I apply it after I put the black paint on it?
What kind of black paint?
@@BradAngove I'd love to paint it factory color black like it is now but I've looked all over and can't find the paint code. Mines a 2003 tahoe by the way. So I figured I'd get some rustoleom turbo gloss black to re paint my hood and driver side door, because that's where the paint fade is at.
I’m just trying to figure out what type of paint you’re using so I can tell you how long to wait before applying the clear. Spraymax has paint available to match various auto finishes if you find a place that does that.
@@BradAngove lol I told you already bro. I got the rustoleom turbo gloss black spray can.. Btw I appreciate you getting back to me since this video is pretty old
I’d give that a week or two to dry and then sand at 800 grit before clear coating.
I tried to put that "Spray Maxx" brand 2K over a silver base coat once on my motorcycle and it looked really awesome, that was until I decided to power wash it. It took the clear right off completely and left the silver base looking like dull primer, and the bike no longer got any attention at gas stations...😢
Should I have done some sanding with 400 grit to the base coat before I sprayed the clear coat on to give that clear something to "grab ahold of"???
Because that's what I'm going to try to do this time around.
Sanding can help, but it can also mess up the look of metallics. What kind of paint did you use under it?
@@BradAngove This time round (3rd), I took the tank back down to bare metal, then put on 3 coats self etching primer, then put on 3 coats of Rust-Oleum silver, then put on 3 coats of Rust-Oleum silver glitter, then put on 25 coats of Rust-Oleum 2X clear, (about 6 cans), then I block sanded all the runs down just to flat with 320 grit, then hand sanded with 400 grit, then finished sanding with #0000 steel wool, and that's where I'm at right now.
Now is where I'm going to try to put on the Spray Max 2K clear coat, and I have bought 2 cans of that....
Jeez, it looked so darn good before all the sanding I almost put the bike back together like that, even with all the runs... But I need to have some kind of resistance to gasoline, beings it a motorcycle gas tank.
That is an incredible amount of paint. I would be rather concerned about an issue appearing somewhere in there.
How you got through that 2X portion with a strait face is a total miracle
Thanks Brad, great explanation, I tried a 1K clear but the can spattered and ruined the finish here and there, would a 2K be less likely to spatter?
A high quality can is less likely to spatter. The 2K is high quality, but there are good 1k cans too. Was there any paint on your hand/finger after?
@@BradAngove Thanks Brad, I followed the instructions on the can, the color coat went on great and was a good match with a can made up by a paint specialist, they recomended the can of clear coat to finish with. I had two attempts with the clear both times were a fail and had to be rubbed down with new color. After the 2nd fail I gave up and the car panel is now just in color without clear. I have no spray area and have to wait for a warm no wind day. I don't think there was any spatter on my finger but it was last summer when I tried to spray it.
Ok. If the nozzle was clean and your finger was also clean there must have been something wrong with the can. They don’t usually spatter. Anyway, the 2k is definitely the preferred option for a car panel.
@@BradAngove Thanks Brad, I apreciate your answer, I'll be trying the 2K clear as soon as the weather is up to it.
Hi Brad, I was hoping to mask around two decals on a carbon fibre motorcycle mudguard. Do you think I will get away without keying the surfaces? Would the lacquer edge be smoothable?
You’re trying to avoid spraying the decals? You need to sand any area that you’re actually painting. Probably best to clear coat the whole thing after (removing any masking beforehand).
Super helpful video! Need an expert opinion from a fellow Canadian. Daughter painted a guitar body for me. I put about 24 coats of spray on varnish that would not hurt her acrylic artwork. Not really happy with the matte finish and I am afraid to sand it. SO thin! I'd like to put a few coats of spray clear coat on it. After I let the varnish dry for a very long time, do you see any issue with using a 1K or 2K clearcoat over cheap Michael's varnish? Love to hear what you think. Best wishes from Oshawa.
You’ll still need to sand it to be able to clear coat it, but I think you should be safe from a reaction if you wait long enough.
@@BradAngove thanks so much! I have a little piece of wood I sprayed with the varnish. Being a rookie, I picked a varnish that would agree with the acrylic paint and not a good clear coat. Lesson learned.
Thanks for your answer. I have subscribed to your channel as it is terrific! (I also may have to start again if this goes south. 😀) I'll do it your way if I do!!!
@imitchellgill I’m glad you’re finding the information helpful. Hopefully your method works.
@@BradAngove It did turn out well. Let's call it what it is. Blind luck! I'll be following your method for the sanding. Thanks again.
@imitchellgill glad to hear it worked out
This is the first video I've watched from you Brad. I''ve spent A LOT of time just simply trying to figure out the right method to spray a new bumper that will last and, yes, look right. I've subscribed immediately simply for the part around 4:15 where you laugh and say K and X are different letters. LMAO. Yes, all the new jargon (and myriad of opinion) has confused me greatly, but after this vid, I KNOW I can learn from you. Thanks for the video. Look forward to watching more of your stuff.
Thank you. I have the video was helpful. You may want to check out my video on how to get a professional looking clear coat with spray cans.
I am painting my truck in sections with Rust-Oleum Advanced Glossy Enamel. When I am all done, can I spray the truck with the 2K clear to protect the paint? It takes a while for this paint to cure but it sprays really nice.
If you let it cure completely, and sand lightly with 800 grit then you can clear coat with the 2K.
@@BradAngove thanks man. I will probably let it cure for a few months to be safe.
Hi brad , I have a dash bezel and I painted it Rust-oleum(black santim and silver Hammerred) now I need to know what kind ( Brand name )clear coat I can apply over Rost-oleum spray paint.if possible 1K.
Thanks 🙏
+dande souto You can’t really clear coat over the hammered paint. Luckily, it’s very durable on its own.
Brad Angove how about over the Rost oleum black satin
You can go over that with the Rustoleum crystal clear.
I've been conspiring the 2K for my kayak. The guy who built it (wood strip sealed in fiber glass) used the 2k clear as a finish. Well it's time for a new coat or two. Two questions, first, what are does one can cover and two, how many coats do you recommend? While were are at it, how much time between coats?
If you’re just doing a refresh I’d say 3 coats. It should say on the can how much it covers; I’m not sure. My guess is that you’ll beed about 3 cans for a kayak.
Time between coats depends on temperature and humidity, but it’s usually about 10 minutes for that stuff.
Great video !! How long will a 2K can spray car last on a car finish?? compared to taking a car to a shop and having them do it in the shop for a new clear coat?? Will a sprayed car last on a car just as long as one done in a shop? Thanks for all replies in advance !!
If you do it properly it should be very similar to a typical finish from a body shop.
Very useful information and insightful video content. Thanks for sharing this.
Cheers
@BradAngove - thanks for the tips! Question: I finished a TELE with Dupicolor metallic paint and then covered with one can Spray Max 2K glamor, the surface is rough, should I sand with 600 grit and re-apply clear or add more clear until its smooth and covers the rough areas and then sand & polish? thanks!
Yes, that’s probably your best bet. Do you have dust in your finish?
Hi, Brad. I haven't used rattle cans in about 60 years and I recently bought a few of them for painting a fender and number cover on my 2006 CTS. I figured that the color match would be the closest. My car has low miles and has been garaged. (79K miles).
It turns out that the ACDelco paint is enamel and I bought their clear coat. Now I've learned that 2K lacquer is much better for gloss and longevity, What can I do to get that kind of result from an enamel clear coat? Can it even be done? My existing paint is quite glossy. I do use a couple of pro paint buffers on the car from time to time. A 3" and 5 1/2" models.
Any help would ve appreciated.
PS; I suppose I could wait the 90 days for the base coat to cure completely if necessary.
Ron
Enamel tends to have reasonable durability. I think if you just let that cure completely and sand and polish it will probably be passable. At least for a reasonable period of time.
Very good description of the differences. Thank you
Cheers
Painting front grill on car, would you recommend 2k for more durability to stone chips or will 1k work just as well if given longer to cure?
2K would be the standard for that.
Quick question bro and thank you for your videos I just had a new custom boat trailer made and painted with no clear coat. What clear coat spray can do you recommend me to use. It’s a boat trailer and I will not be entering it into any car shows or boat shows if you know what I mean. I just want something to protect the paint from water and sun! Thank you!!! Miguel
The 2K is an automotive product and is probably your best bet for that sort of thing.
Thank you Brad!!!! Awesome looking forward to more videos from you....
My stock machine rims on my 2006 Silverado crewcab look a little old now I dont want to take them to a shop and they come out looking like chrome iv notice when I'm washing the truck and the rims are wet they look new so I was thinking of just putting clear on them to look new would the rustoleum clear 2x be ok ? Sounds like you said there the same thickness of the the other expensive cans
Same thickness if you build them up again. Just less durable and slower to dry than the 2k.
I know this is 4 years old, but can your recommend a 2k clear coat with uv protection? Just painted my golf cart and i need to clear coat it. During camping season it stays outdoors 24/7 and i dont want the paint to fade or a bad clear coat. Thank you
Do you have the ability to apply it with a spray gun?
@BradAngove i do. But with it being a golf cart trying to kinda go as cheap as possible. Primer, sandpaper, paint.... im only in about $30 to $40
Clear coats with good uv protection are not cheap. If you have a gun you can try one of the less expensive lines made by PPG. They tend to be reliable and broadly available. If you want to use spray cans then the spraymax 2K is about as good as it gets.
@BradAngove thank you. I did order the spraymax 2k , it should be here any day now but i have to wait to spray it we have -13 degrees here for a few days lol