A Spray Can Game Changer! (2K clear with unlimited shelf life?)
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
- This paint might be a game changer for diy painters and spray can users. 2K clear coat is one of the best ways to get a beautiful, durable, professional looking finish. One of the biggest challenges with 2K paint in a spray can is that, once it's activated, it has to be used within a limited period of time or it will harden in the can. But, it looks like someone has finally found a way around that!
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WARNING: I did this wrong. The gloss color is not designed to have clear over it. A 1k color coat would have been correct. This creates a risk of cracking!
Thanks for the heads up.
So you could just do their color and no clear top? Nice. That would be really nice.
For the 2K colors yes. They’re high gloss and can be polished.
Hey Brad I gotta break some bad need to ya brother Jeff LaBar of Cinderella passed away today. He was a killer guitar player man I actually seen him play with Mötley Crüe once while Mick Mars was dealing with court and legal stuff and I gotta tell ya Brad Jeff LaBar was a smoking guitar player....he actually played rolling skating at times awesome. I'm the mini me guy Brad so I'm sorry to give bad news man but, we lost another cool player.
Seems like we lose another one every year.
Just a side note, my wife walked in and asked what that was you were painting, was it a piece of sheet metal, because it looked so good, and when I told her it was wood, she smacked me and called me a liar until I backed the video up and showed her. Now I have a longer honey do list and car-rep's little system here is going to be the primary part of it. Maybe if I'm lucky there will be some left for the car parts I wanted to do. *painful smile*
One more thing on safety: Brad is right to caution everyone on the safety and the PU Clear does contain isocyanates. They are known lung irritants so wear a respirator, that is completely adequate. Professional users who have repeat exposure need to take more cautions due to the volumes, this is not the same for DIY users. 2K epoxies do not contain isocyanates and same safety protections as any spray paint apply: well-ventilated area and a respirator, wear gloves and eye protection in case of spills.
Thanks dad.
Thanks papa, let me get a can or two! 😉
Yes correct. I’m a retired painter and before the EPA came in I just wore a carbon filter respirator, but then I started to wear a fresh air system. Isocyanates are deadly.
@@jsmithnss it's nothing to play with , very serious stuff , very dangerous
I want to say THANK YOU for informing us about the importance of PPE with this particular product. I've seen other videos, and while some mentions masks so forth, your video convinced me that investing a bit of money was worth it when considering your health could be impacted in the long run.
Hot damn, a catalysed clear coat that has unlimited shelf life AND is Zombie-Proof in 12 hours? Well done, scientists!
Magic haha
As a guitar repairman (luthier is the technical term, but most people have never heard that, so, repairman/tech/builder/etc.) I've sprayed a lot of paint on wood. I've worked with the 2K type of finish before, and it definitely has the desirable qualities that Brad mentions, and it produces a very durable, attractive finish that's great...for furniture. Or a motorcycle gas tank. I myself (and I admit that I might be a little persnickety about this) generally only finish musical instruments with nitro lacquer, maybe with a poly filler/primer, or sometimes a hand-rubbed 'french polish' with shellac, or, requested more frequently of late, a catalyzed oil finish, especially on necks, but bodies too. I use tung oil cut with shellac and a bit of thinner, although I play around with the recipe now and then for different woods, or desired end results. I tell people only to use an opaque color paint if the wood isn't very nice to look at, but usually when people are shelling out the kinda simoleons necessary for a custom-built guitar, they choose very high quality, and pretty pieces of lumber... Certainly there are many good ways to finish a guitar, no definitive right or wrong way, this is just my subjective squinty-eyed two-cents-worth on the subject..! I Dug the video, and I will definitely watch more of Brad's uploads, because he's skilled and smart, and there's ALWAYS more to learn! That's the greatest thing about yt, I learn something new every day! Anyway, sorry for the ridiculously long-winded comment for those who actually made it to the end...! Peace, and take care!
Thank you
Thank you Brad!
Great video!
Thank you for leading us "starters and intermediates in to battle"!!
Videos like this , are so reinforcing in my attempt of restoring my truck and it no longer makes me feel that I am being led through a dark forest with a blindfold on.
I am so glad I found your channel that displays the beautiful painting results that you have demonstrated!!!!
I'm impressed with the technique of keeping some orange peel in the color coat so as to not knock down the tops of the peaks, thereby leaving too thin of a color layer. Then, when you go back over it and fill in the orange peel with clear, there is still an abundant color layer. Thank you for the tips.
Thia video was very impressive!
Looks like good stuff to work with! And the drying time to polish hardness is outstanding. Great job.
Cheers Stuy
"Don't go dying on me" when you said this I was breathiing next to the guitar that I just sprayed checking how its drying 😂😂🤣🤣
What a great find Brad. I have been happy with the auto enamel, but this stuff I will try, thanks.
Enjoy!
Thanks for the reply. Greatly appreciated. PPF is paint protection film.
Just added this to my Amazon cart along with a mask, using your affiliate link. Thanks for sharing, this is very timely!
Thank you!
I added 3 big butt plugs to my cart with your affiliate link.
You're welcome.
Thanks Jason. I hope you enjoy them.
Ya I've been holding off on using 2k untill I have enough projects to use a while can at once cuz it's not cheap and goes off in the can after first use
WOW! Great find. An apparent auto body shop grade rattle can for the same price as the single use Spray Max. Good work as usual.
Thanks Michael. It should makes things easier, at least on my more ambitious diy spray can viewers haha.
Love the results with 2k clearcoat. Gonna have to give this new product a try.
Enjoy!
the can looks freakin siiiiiiiick
I've had about a 1/4 can of spraymax 2k clear left over intentionally,after a month of sitting on a shelf outside in texas...its still sprays and cures as intended.
Excellent. I’m glad to hear that.
Put in the fridge works to make dormant, but ppe is a must no matter what.
I use both. Car Rep isn’t as hard or as durable as actual 2K and it’s not as thick but much better than lacquer. Whichever I use depends on the job. And on both of them they spray much better if you warm up the cans in the sun or under hot water. They will spray much better.
I’ve been using spray max for years. when I’m done I put it in the refrigerator . I’ve done this over and over for months with the same can , never had a problem. Everything came out perfect every time.
Glad to hear it
Great info about PPE. And awesome results!
Would you be willing to do a video on a basic or minimal PPE setup / suggestion for DIY’ers who value the importance of all that is involved.
I don’t think I have the knowledge or expertise to really advise people on PPE unfortunately.
Great info Brad. TIP: Did you know that if you haven't used up all your SprayMax 2K (or Normfest 2K which I think shoots better) aerosol that you can put the unused portion (can) in your refrigerator! When you refrigerate the can (after you've popped the red cap) it stops/pauses the catalyst from curing the clear inside the can. Perhaps there's an industrial chemist that can tell me why, but I've managed to shoot perfect results about 2 weeks after activation. Just take it out of the fridge, heat it up with scolding water for 10mins and you're good to go again. I'm not guaranteeing it will work for everyone, and I haven't tested how long exactly it will last (perhaps you could). Got this tip from a 30-year auto veteran who told me the catalyst in aerosol products only reacts above 10C.
😲
Hi John. Thanks; I am familiar with that tip. There are a couple reasons I don’t raise it in my videos. 1: people often try to spray straight after the refrigerator which causes potential for cracking and makes the paint harder to spray. 2: a fast transition from cold to hot causes rapid expansion and I’m always concerned a can is going to explode.
@@BradAngove Ya, I can see a few armchair refinishers/finishers like myownself with new nicknames all involving some rendition of "stumpy"...mine would be cool like "Stumpy Stumpertons" and I would be vulnerable in the company of hit chicks with only my cunning and boyish good looks to protect me!
wait...did that sound gay? ")
Jack ~'()'~
- Manly man, and man about town, tremendously obsessed over by the ladies!
OK who laughed!!?
Good to know. I've got a guitar body I want to finish off with a tough gloss . This looks promising
I did a guitar after watching Brad's videos and the 2K clear is amazing! Cannot gush over the finish any more than I already do. The gloss level is awesome!
@@chrisleriche I just finished my guitar body in 2k max. The clear coat is great. Very good flow and coverage, very gloss finish. I know the cost per can I'd alot, but the result is perfect.
BAD ASS HOMIE! 😷🇲🇽👏🏼💪🏽👍🏼🙏🏼
really hyped for this video looks really good stuff, can hopfully find a way to get some in uk
We're working on it in UK, sign up for updates at www.car-rep.com.
a big game changer. No more wasting a can for a small job.
this is something really revolutionary. I bought a can and am testing it out.
Glad to hear it. The curing is impacted by humidity, so make sure your conditions aren’t too dry.
@@BradAngove so what is the catalyst since it is 2K ? air humidity or atmospheric pressure ?
I’m not sure the specifics of the chemistry, but I know it performs better with some humidity.
I have a CPAP machine and figure that it puts about 12 pounds (?) of pressure in the mask I wear at night. I plan to try to get a full face mask and a much longer hose and use it. Just have to make sure it isn't taking in the contaminated air I'm trying to avoid.
This could be seriously amazing
Looks very promising.
Awesome Brad! Game changer!!! Thank you much for the demo bro 🎸🎸👍
Cheers buddy
Thanks Brad!
Interesting stuff Brad.
Thank you
I'm sure my wallet dislikes this channel.
But the clear and epoxy primer should work perfectly for my current project. A custom 10cf sub for a friends retirement shop.
Haha yeah half the time my wallet also dislikes this channel.
Just got a can of the Car-Rep clear coat , can’t wait to get it on my guitar
I hope it goes well for you.
@@BradAngove ha me too 🤞
Hi Brad , great show & a true tradesmen. I used PRE CATALYZED LACQUER for years ( in Australia) I’m a French polisher had my own business , I’m afraid pre CATALYZED has nowhere near the hardness of TWO PACK . As you said. Two pack has a limited shelf life , yet the pre CATALYZED is unlimited shelf life . But the durability, compared to two pack is chalk & cheese . The chemical resistant is nowhere near a true TWO PACK . I used top of the line pre cat, & top of the line , two pack . I can’t mansion the products name , for personal reasons. Great information in your show. Keep up the great work.
Yes, I agree. A proper catalyzed 2K is much difference than a pre-cat lacquer.
Have you tried Dan Power’s DNA paints? They look great, but aren’t exactly accessible from Canada haha.
@@BradAngove No Brad I haven’t used that . I don’t think, there’s available in Australia, also , I’ve been retired for about 15 years , so I lost contact with a lot of products. If I may add some more comments about two pack . When the two pack is fully cured ( im talking about month) if you have to respray , the only ANCHORAGE YOU CAN HAVE IS A MECHANICAL BOND , relying only on the sandpaper scratches, you will NOT HAVE A CHEMICAL BOND . Reason is , the two pack after FULL CURE , , it will NOT MELT, to allow the next coat to bond. If you wipe it with som acetone , it may give you about 5=10%CHEMICAL BOND . Compèring with PRE CAT , YOU CAN RE SPRAY AT ANYTIME & get a chemical bond. Sorry for taking a lot of space to explain. PS. I’m always referring to, TOP QUALITY INDUSTRIAL MATERIALS.
Who knew Christian Bales stunt double was a paint expert! 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Had to change careers - too many injuries.
I just got through using the 2K and I don’t see a problem with not using a maaaaaaaaaaaaa 💥
*brushes off soot… lights another cigar…
@@BradAngove , oh yeah you know who I am!😬
it looks great
And you do have a life..
Have a Great Day
Spray max says the pot life is 48 hrs at 68 deg. I recently activated a can and did a small job with plenty left over. The clear coat was still good, and sprayed well 1 week after activating it. It was in my garage where the temp was 65-70 degrees. I actually tested it on a painted can before using it on my car. It dried to touch in about 15 minutes, and fully dried after an hour. So I don't know why the manufacturer says it has a 2 day pot life. I could see it if it was a 2 part version intended to be used with a spray gun, in which case the mix would be exposed to air.
They’re probably being cautious. If any air exposure happens in the can it will harden more. I suspect if there is half a can left it will go bad in the can faster than if there is 3/4 of a can left for example.
So the paint hits the air for a nano second before being buried under more paint. What's on top would seem to harden and leave a film and what's underneath wouldn't fully cure. Looks like the modified urethane clear that Duplicolor just came out with, the way it sands and polishes. Would be very interesting to see a bunch sprayed into a clear container. If it comes out yellowish, you will know it's the snakeoil they put into it.
It’s humidity activated. I’ve used it on several projects now. It works fine.
That's great news. 2 questions (at least). Do you have to use the Car-rep 2K color under the clear or are there other paints we can use? I know you don't like the micro-fiber towels, so what kind of towel do you recommend to rub off the compound during the polishing process? A few weeks ago I bought some micro-fiber towels from an auto-body paint and supply company. They were softer and seemed to do a better job than the junk that Wal-Mart and Lowe's sell.
Let me start by saying I messed this up and have now pinned a comment. You should not use 2K color under the clear. It’s intended to be too coat. Together they will often crack. Use a 1k, for example an acrylic or one of car reps colors.
Decent micro fiber towels work for removing compound but not for polishing. I would use a soft lint free cloth like an old tee shirt for removing my final polish ideally.
@@BradAngove Thank you sir!
Griot’s and The Rag Company make great MF towels. Very popular and effective for auto detailers who commonly do paint correction. As for maintenance wiping, always go for edgeless MF towels; reduces marring (and the need to polish as often).
I definitely gotta check this out sometime. Just not sure if it’s compatible with rustoleum. I used spray max recently on my headlights and I’m pretty happy with it. Minus having to toss due to pot life.
I haven’t tried it with rustoleum, but I think it would work with the painters touch, which is acrylic.
Fantastic finish,
How long between last color coat and sanding? Looks shiny
12 hours, but I screwed this up. Bad. See my pinned comment.
It's possibly a moisture-cured chemistry, similar to polyurethane sealants. Good stuff.
It is, yes.
Hey Brad your video are great and have helped me tremendously! Thanks for that! Quick question, do you have a video on how to paint a headstock? I am doing green black crackle finish on the body and headstock but not the neck. I am just worried that the transition from the headstock to the backside of the neck will look awkward since they will have different finishes.
They don’t look awkward. You just tape off the edges to create a hard line transition.
So can the 2k clear go over pretty much anything? Assuming you don't want the white black or red that they have.
It tends to be fairly broadly compatible. I wouldn’t put it over machine enamel. Comically enough, it’s not supposed to go over the 2K black top coat I used. That was a mistake so don’t do that. Those don’t need clear. The clear is typically for over 1k items like acrylics.
LOL....
"I'm slowly learning that I don't need to paint a guitar, every time I want to demo something."
You should have learned that lesson rather - quickly; otherwise, it could quickly prove to be a time-consuming modus operandi.
Kidding aside - I like your channel.
I'm a car guy/mechanic/artist/musician/luthier/DIYer. I was on here looking for some good information on getting a great finish on guitars, and I think I found a one-stop-shop for a multitude of informational aspects. (Two-thumbs-up)
Thanks Clifton
I would have been interesting to see you flex that board, just a little bit, to see if the the coating cracked or delaminated at all. -Still, I'm very impressed.
Interesting. I don’t think I have it anymore, but if I come across it I’ll try this and let you know.
I don't remember one time where I went "hmmm, I have some leftover". I always use the whole can. Good for smaller projects I guess, it wasn't a problem for me though.
I would typically use one can of 2K for two guitar bodies and have a bit left over.
@@BradAngove Yeah, I've only built set-necks so that's a bit more and always went "well, there's some left in the can, let's go for another coat (or two)". Since it expired quickly why not? I don't pretend to be anywhere near as experienced/knowledgeable as you are. It just worked fine for me that's all.
As long as you don’t end up running out half way through a coat the only peril is that you build up too much too fast and it doesn’t harden properly.
@@BradAngove Agreed. So far so good (hoping not to jinx it writing this).
Hey Brad. Have you ever used this 2K clear coat over a vinyl sticker or decal? If so, how did it come out? I want to try this out on a project, but wondering if you had experience with it yet.
I haven’t yet. You may want to use some adhesion promoter for that.
This is why I switched to crystalac. Give you a beautiful finish. Try it out.
I have
Very very very cool man. Very cool.
Thanks Brad. Good stuff man.
Oh. I would like to see how to get a stone finish. I would also like to know how to use bondo to use to smooth out wood before you paint and prune on a guitar body for instance that has dents, or is very porous versus using wood sealer, etc. I talked to a guy that used to work at Kramer and they used bondo to make a smooth finish sometimes. .Isn't that cool.
Hope you're well man.
Bondo wouldn’t be my first choice just because of the thickness and set time. Have a look at my video on filler vs sealer and my very old video on grain filling with paste wood filler.
@@BradAngove Thanks Brad
Hi great video, did you test the finish after with solvents etc to see what it would be like on a car wing (fender to you guys over the pond lol) as here in the UK we have a lot of hand car washed who use a lot of TFR cleaners and I'm lazy so use them
I haven’t tried any noteworthy solvents on it so far. I can though.
@@BradAngove sweet cheers mate, keep up the good work
After letting it cure for several weeks indoors, my impression is that it is not as hard as Spray Max. It does not go on as smooth, so after sanding is a must.
I have found that it’s hardening depends on humidity conditions, but I agree it does not generally seem to be as hard as the spray max.
@@BradAngove I repainted a side mirror housing with spray can. Compared with Spray-max that I used on another similar repair a few years ago, I am having doubts as to how this new product will hold up once I mount it on the car.
Great video!! Can you use spraymax 2k directly over varithane wood stain?
I would think so, but I haven’t tried it.
Thank You Sir!!! Just bought 2 from Amazon. #GameChanger
Forgive me, I'm new to using spray paints . I found your videos while looking for info on what clear coat to use on a DIY project. Can you possibly tell me if this would work to use over Rust-Oleum 2x Ultra spray paint? I've found videos of others using the Spray Max 2k with the same RustOleum 2x Ultra Cover but wasn't sure if this would work as well?
It should, but having used it more now I can tell you the spraymax 2K is superior.
@@BradAngove Thank you see much for the response. I'm glad to have your opinion and now that I know you find the 2k superior I'm gonna go ahead and jump on and buy some and try that and see how it goes .
How many fenders can you do with one can?
i'll never rattlecan again..lol Takes forever for it to "gasout" and dry. Used 10 cans of clear on a bass project, and its just not solid enough where it wont pickup a pattern of wherever it's laying..Nitro from now on baby! :D
I have a few issues with this statement. Rattle can paints don’t gas off any slower than other paints of the same composition if you apply them correctly. 10 cans of clear is insane for a bass guitar. Even 2 is pushing it. Different rattle can paints have different hardness. Nitro comes in rattle cans and is softer than many other options.
1K rattle cans dry fast because they air dry. The nature of 2K requires chemical curing which is slower but results in much better surface. 10 cans???? Like for a band of base players? We're with Brad, 1 can should do the trick, maybe 2 if it's very large. Always apply in multiple thin coats.
Man, I think this could have easily been a 4 minute video. But I appreciate the info 🙂
Thanks for watching
Great video and very informational. I would love to use a Stuff on my next guitar build. But, I have a question about the preparation prior to shooting the 2K. Is it OK to use this 2K over a nitrocellulose lacquer, sanding sealer? If not, what should you use in preparation for a 2K topcoat?
Epoxy or urethane primers are the typical choice. I have used 2K over nitrocellulose lacquer successfully before though.
@@BradAngove thanks for your feedback. I will try to find an epoxy or urethane sanding sealer before I shoot the 2K.
I'm totally resto-modding my 'Strat' (Starcaster) .with new electronics and hardware and coating the cloth covering on the body and head stock (nebula print/star pattern) with fiberglass resin ( silver micro glitter on each wet coat )..will the 2-K clear react with the resin or will Is simply cover it and be nonreactive for a good clear finish after all the sanding and buffing gets done to a glassy shine. I got some cheap pick ups- quad rail humbuckers and wired similar to a Les Paul (500k vol and 500k tone for each pickup) with coil split in push/pull volume pots. I also made a custom pick guard also cloth covered with the same cloth with resin coating and the pattern matching the body as closely as possible so as to nearly be invisible. I got the resin applied and need to sand it flat and smooth to 800 grit still. I really wanted to know if the 2-k is ok to cover it well without reacting with it. I'm calling it and labeling it the "Stellarcaster" when finished. going to be awesome to look at and I hope it plays and sounds as good as it looks when I get it all done....lol doing a 'Tele' for my next project next;. I got a 'Tele' pick up from Dylan of 'Dylan talks tone' a while back as a sort of random prize give away. It's the one he wound with that other pick up maker with the all same parts on the same winder and they sound different too. I would guess it comes down to their different technique and feel while winding the coils. So please let me know you opinion on the use of the 2-k clear over he resin. sorry ban't help myself I'm a little proud that my very first rebuild is going so well so far. can't wait to see it all done and shiny new looking. It started out as a supper cheap ( under $100) Chinese craptastic "Starcaster" 'Strat' being turned into a work of art I can actually play. all my own workmanship on it too...I got a good deal on a practice amp too ..It's a 'Blackstar ID Core 40 watt stereo combo amp with some built in effects in the amp. sounds good and is pretty loud too. new cable and strap to complete the rig for now till I get some pedals too.. se ya and I'll send pics of the finished instrument soon as it;s all done.
Hi brad, do you need to wet sand it? And what grit would you recommend? Also what compound and polish do you recommend? Thanks!
You don’t need to, but in many cases it is easier. I suggest checking out some of my other polishing videos for better information. I have many.
Is that a DA OR Rotary pneumatic sander/polisher you are using? I am looking to work on my vehicle doing some paint and repair and not sure if I want to use a pneumatic or electrical unit. I would like a unit that does both. Any recommendations?
This one is just a DA. I think triton has an electric sander that does both.
I've used the clear and it goes on nice but in weeks it started to spider crack. I'll never use it again.
So how long before you can polish or wet sand spraymax2k? How about placing PPF? Thanks for any info
24 hours for sanding and polishing.
I don’t know what PPF is.
Ps the latest brand I got off them was mipa but previously I got this pro xl stuff and it had an adjustable nozzle which was cool. Made it a lot easier for me to get runs with my lack of knowledge lol
Hahaha that’s key. Easy runs. None of these immodium brand cans…
Hey Brad. Greetings from Toronto. Tried this clearcoat over a guitar that had been painted with duplicolor, and had been curing for month. Shook the can far about 5 minutes, warm dry day, paint degreased. After about an hour, the paint started to 'spiderweb' (if thats the right word) Let that dry for about 3 days, sanded it back the best I could, and the effect kept coming back. I just left it that way, and said I did it on purpose to give it an 'aged' look. Have you come across any similar problems?
I ran into that issue spraying the clear over the 2K base. But not over duplicolor. That is surprising.
@@BradAngove Thanks! I'm wondering if the can has to be shaken far more than regular clear.
@rogerber45326 not that I’m aware of
I'm trying to move away from spray cans to a paint system. I'm still learning. I was looking at Createx and now I'm looking at House of Kolor. Is there a paint system that you can recommend. I want to spray pearls, flake, and other intercoats. I'm new to spray guns too but I'm really committed to getting this right. Suggestions, advice? Maybe a few videos. :)
Yeah the createx AutoAir and Wicked lines are great. So is house of Kolor and PPG.
Hi Brad, would this work with dupli color primer, dupli color black metallic? I am refinishing my guitar right now and bought the spray max 2k for clear coat but if this is worth getting, i would order and use it and save the spraymax 2k instead
Yes that should work fine
Brad, you have the gloss clear listed on your Amazon page. How about the primer and gloss black? Looks like good products to me.
I couldn’t find those in amazon. If you take a look at the car rep site I think it provides info about where you can buy them.
2 Primers, Filler and top coats are available with limited retailers, amazon and our website right now.
I was wondering if you have ever done a guitar neck with this or the spraymax 2k? I know it dries a bit harder/faster than regular polyurethane . Do you think that it would be less gummier than regular polyurethane . I haven't seen anyone using this on necks, just bodies. Much love !
It’s a fairly common option for necks. It doesn’t gum up. I’ve used it before, the only issue is it gets a bit thick.
@@BradAngove thanks for the reply , I appreciate your time!
Hi brad, i did a project months ago using dupli color and spray max 2k. I just noticed for some reason the paint on the bridge got soft and rolled a bit even after weeks of drying. Do you know if this is uncommon?
I tried the Eastwood Duraspray, which is based on the same concept of unlimited pot life. On two separate projects, the clear developed numerous cracks about halfway through the curing process. I haven't tried the Car-Rep product, I wonder if it's made exclusively by Car-Rep or if it's just a rebadged version of the same product sold as Eastwood Duraspray?
I’ve had a couple issues with it cracking when there isn’t adequate humidity. I’m not sure if it’s the same product though.
@@BradAngove I let it dry in an area that was about 50% relative humidity. I bought two cans and it's always possible that one of them is bad, but I'm hesitant to try the second one.
@@surge98needs 70%
Have you done a durability test yet
Yes. It’s not quite as hard as the 2K.
Hola buenas, una pregunta, me gusta leer e informarme bien antes de hacer nada y mas en cuestion de salud.
He comprado la mascarilla 3M, 4255FFA2P3, pero mi sorpresa cuando veo que el barniz transparente en spray de automocion 2k pone que tiene isocianatos y esta mascara dice que uso de pinturas sin isocianatos, sujeto a condiciones de uso, pero ahora no se que hacer, aun no la he abierto y puedo cambiarla, para mi la salud es lo primero. Que mascarilla de proteccion frente a isocianatos recomendarias?.Gracias
Hello. I don’t really speak Spanish, but if I’m understanding this question correctly I just answered it for you on another video.
Not sure if this has already been asked.. scanned and did not see it... if using this 2k top coat over Createx paints on a motorcycle tank.. you mentioned chip resistance etc.. but will it provide the same resistance to gas drips as the Spray Max?
Yes, my understanding from the manufacturer is that it’s solvent proof when cured. Although I have not tested it myself.
@@BradAngove clearing this weekend, so I'll let you know how it holds up!
@@SthrnShutterbug How did it go?
Hey Brad. If I want to use the Rustoleum paint and primer spray can for application, would this Car Repair 2K clear coat go over it with no cracking issues? If yes, would I have to lightly sand before applying clear coat or not?
If you’re using the painters touch paint from rustoleum and you let it dry fully before clear coating it should be fine. Yes you should sand lightly with 800 grit before clear coat.
Not sure if you still remember, but did it give it a nice glossy finish? before you added the clear coat. As I seen you did the mistake to add the clear coat.
The 2K gloss did give a nice hard gloss finish. It’s just not quite the same as a clear coated finish because there isn’t a deep clear layer. If you want to skip using clear though, that is a good option for sure.
Nice video...Does this stuff also contain Isocyanates? Is it gasoline resistant?
My understanding is it is gasoline resistant and contains isocyanates, but I could be wrong.
Hey Brad, I just painted a guitar with the rustoleum color shift paint that you demoed in another video. I also ordered the car rep 2k clear from this video for clearing said guitar. My question is, would you wet sand the color shift paint before clearing, or clear straight over it?
Sanding it will ruin the effect, so really your only alternative with that paint is to clear straight over it.
I just clear coated a guitar with this product 24 hours ago and I can scratch right through the clear with my finger nails! Was yours scratch resistant after 12 hours like the label in the can claims?
I didn’t get back to it in 12 hours, but it was scratch resistant after about 20 when I got back to the shop.
Do a side my side both clear coats .. tape down the middle... For better gloss
Both as in this and spraymax? Expensive test, but if the opportunity arises I will do it.
@@BradAngove it's not on UA-cam yet spray max vs new guy 👍
Ok so I have a bass guitar with a lot of signatures from a lot of different bands I want to protect them and play the bass what would you say is the best way to do thi
Got a question i just sprayed a rim with 2X clear coat for a friend and it was opened a little over 24hrs it was the final coat and it came out with a milky white haze to it do you know what could've made that happen and how can i fix it will heat from a heat gun work to clear it up
How was the humidity when you were spraying?
@@BradAngove it was 75 degrees that day i felt the spray tip and it felt real tacky it was the fast drying clear so I was wondering if maybe it has a shorter life expectancy than the glamour clear that is good for 48 hours
No that stuff doesn’t really have a shelf life issue. I’m thinking you just ended up with some humidity trapped under the clear. It’s a common problem.
@@BradAngove is there a way to clear it up with a heat gun or wet sand
Yes, a heat gun usually works. You just need to be very careful.
Thank you, Brad... this is good info. I have a question. I get why Car Rep is functionally easier than the 2K that you have to mix and has a short shelf life, but isn't that what KBS clear coat has been for a long time? Why is Car Rep (or the Max 2K or whatever) better than KBS?
That sounds like a good question, but I am completely unfamiliar with KBS. Is it an air activated 2K as well?
KBS is just moisture curing polyurethane. I'd bet car rep is the same.
If it doesn't have cyanide in it, it will never be as hard so it won't ever be as shiny or scratch resistant
That sounds about right. I haven’t done any tests to check if it’s as resistant as spraymax for example, but it’s more resistant than typical spray clear and it needs some moisture to cure.
soo, is the car rep paint less harmful/bad for you the the spray max?...
Maybe a little, but I doubt it’s a big difference.
I'm not a 100% but I think my local paint shop does the 2k base like that, doesn't go off in the can. Regarding the clear though, I can't not use a whole can on one guitar, that's just how not good I am lol
Haha that’s a lot of paint!
Would you recommend using the epoxy primer to harden up basswood instead of using normal 2 part epoxy?
Not necessarily. That just adds a hard coat on it. Is there a reason you need to harden it up?
@BradAngove just
that basswood is softer and Ive seen that others use zpoxy first on it.
Wet sand between clear coats, should help prevent that orange peel
I hope you don’t mean between every coat. That will help prevent the proper buildup of clear as well as the chemical adhesion.
Is this new 2k need the same protection as the spray max or is it more DIY friendly?
I’m not 100% sure, but I would suggest you probably need the same level of protection.
Great vid.. Do they have this in a matte clear coat? It says Matte on the can and high gloss in the description...
They’re working on it but I don’t think they have it yet.
Matte and satin are coming, just not ready quite yet. Sign up on car-rep.com for product updates and availability.
Hey Brad.. With respect to the SprayMax, do you have any experience using an unopened can after its expiry date? I have a can that's 6 months over the expiry date. Is it garbage?
I don’t have any experience with that. I would think it’s probably still useful since it’s sealed, but I’m not sure.
Brad, so does the Car Rep has cyanide like the the Spray Max since it catalyze when it hits the air? In other words, would you still need that special mask that you mentioned for Spray Max?
I saw several of your videos already. Your sarcasm is funny.
Yeah I believe it still has the isocyanates. A special respirator would definitely be a good idea.
This Car-rep 2k is real 2k or 1k?
1K basecaot is safe with car-rep 2k clear?
It’s moisture activated, so I’m not sure that’s its actual 2K per se. 1k base coat works fine with it, depending on the product of course.
What are your thoughts on 2k that's isocyanate free?
I’d be pretty skeptical about its performance until proven otherwise.
Question for you . I clear coated my guitar with the Car rep 2k clear . Looks good but the clear still scratches easy, Is this normal . Been 5 days , drying at room temp. I am hoping it still gets harder
It should continue to harden for a while as long as there is a bit of humidity and the temperature is reasonable.
Hate to bother, but is there any issue with spraying a catalyzed aerosol over an alcohol based dye, say like Angelus Leather dye?
No, just give the dye lots of drying time and it should be fine.
Looks like good stuff... question on 2k in general: I used it on two projects now but can not get it to a gloss after sanding/polishing. I worked through grids 1000-1500-2000-3000 and it is still very matt. Polished with a scratch remover and a fine polish/wax still leaves a matt sheen. What am I doing wrong? Tried the same process with nitocellulose and that leads to high gloss results.
Is the coating fully hardened/ cured? Maybe try some infrared heat to harden from the inside out if possible, that’s the way the car trade do it.
Not possible to get a full gloss polish unless fully hardened. Hope this helps.
Hi Jereon. The issue is probably that the finish is too hard for you to polish as easily. Scratch remover and fine polish are for taking out swirl marks typically, not really sanding marks. Start with compound and that should help.
@@BradAngove thanks, I appreciate the feedback. I will try with my next project!
Great videos man. Have you ever experimented with chrome paint? I've been looking at tons of videos. there are some amazing chrome paints out there but most of them are hard to clear coat since the chrome turns dull and hazy, looses its reflectivity. Unless you do it with professional equipment and higher products.
Yeah I don’t use chrome really but I know chrome spray paint isn’t designed to be clear coated.
Is this the best stuff to get? And what I'd someone sprays outside with a respirator mask will they be good?
I been working on my carbon fiber hood and I'm trying to get the clear coat off to respray.
This stuff is good. Whether it’s the best depends somewhat on what you’re looking for. It’s fairly durable and quite easy to use.
A respirator is helpful. Technically it can’t filter isocyanates though, so an air fed mask is the right thing to use.
@@BradAngove I see. I have a Rino respirator mask. My hood is in bad shape when you can could you check out the video I uploaded and let me know what you think. And what I can do to get it right
Have you heard of Samurai 2k paint? They have 2k paint that's Isocyanate free, have you tried it? Could it be the solution to spraymax poison, I love spraymax but holding my breathe feels sketchy, lmao.
I’ve never heard of it.