I'm a bit confused, if just replacing the tensioner, why remove that upper valve thing over the cam sprockets? Obviously it needs to be out of the way to place the sprocket locks, but none of that should move if you don't remove any chain guides right? Most of the videos don't show removal of that or any guides if not replacing the chain, just keeping tension by tie wrapping the chains in a few places to keep them snug, popping off the tensioner, putting the new one on, pulling the clip, and putting everything back together. I'm not saying they're right, I just want to know why you chose to go the route you do? I'm planning on doing this today or tomorrow, I have the special crank pully tool, and the bolt spacer, but I don't have the special tool for that upper valve thing, nor the sprocket locks. I planned on marking everything at the proper points to make sure there was no movement during the install.
It's very easy for the timing to jump first off and it doesn't take much more time to check other components for damage. Most of the time the tensioners fail causing severe engine damage. Also, the cam bridge should be replaced along with the oil control valve both require the top cover removed and parts are not that expensive and have a high failure rate. Do the job once, do it right.
I’m actually working on a Q5 right now and everything‘s good with it but it’s doing random misfires and I’m being told it’s because the timing chain has stretched and tensioner is all the way out. I did look through the view hole and it is pretty far out so I’m getting ready to attempt this job. And I have all the equipment. But since mine is not timed right now, I’ll be able to time it with these marks once I have the front off? Or do I have to do anything special like Ford or Chevy? Well, you got to roll the cams? Good video by the way thank you.
Timing chain stretch is probably not causing the miss, I have many videos about oil control valve and cam bridge that will cause those problems. Chain tensioner if not the new one should be changed immediately because it will just timing and destroy engine
I’m in Florida what state are you in. I got a 2010 EOS, love the car, runs great, will check the tensioner tomorrow, if I need it replaced I want bring my car to you, ship it to you, you seem like a good fella.
You mentioned that you prefer to have the engine out - - how much extra work is that and for a weekend warrior is this approach near the limit - cheers - love the videos - straight to the point not fat. - cheers
If you’re only doing the timing chain and guides then no I wouldn’t pull the engine for only that but if you had a rear main seal leak then yes you have to pull the engine for that. Because those rear main seals are known to blow if the PCV fails. And depending on your skill level it’s much more work to pull the engine if you don’t work on cars every day for a living.
@@motorcarnut Do you have to pull the front bumper off in order to remove the engine? Did you drop the engine from below or did you lift it up and out from the top? Removed on a 2007 Passat and I had to removed the front bumper, radiatior support, etc...
Hey there I’m working on a 09 Passat tsi with the P0016 code, I replaced the solenoid and the cover for the VVT and when I clear the code it will start right up but as soon as I turn the car off, the code comes back. I took the front cover off and the timing seems correct. I’m not really sure where to go from here. Any info would be great, thank you.
A question I have concerns the tensioner and how to count the grooves. Does the tensioner move from left to right (from the housing out) or do you count grooves from right to left? So, if the clip is on a groove inside the housing, does that mean the timing chain is ok? I was shown a video from a mechanic who said the tension was on the 8th groove... and the timing chain needs to be replaced as a result. Just would like a better understanding. Thanks
You're so welcome! Your video literally made such a world of difference, it's crazy. Never done timing before until now. Thank you again, you're videos and detail are unmatched! 🙌
Sorry to keep bombing your comments. Just had one final question. Once I turned the crank over twice, my marks line up perfectly, but on my cam side, the colored link is present. Is that normal? On your video, I don't see either colored link anymore
It's not just that tool, you need this kit to do the job correctly. www.amazon.com/Yuesstloo-Camshaft-Crankshaft-Compatible-2006-2018/dp/B09L45K5C8/ref=asc_df_B09L45K5C8?mcid=dc99972e16be375c99fff7474fe7c77f&hvocijid=4353343499756971542-B09L45K5C8-&hvexpln=73&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=692875362841&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4353343499756971542&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004531&hvtargid=pla-2281435180978&th=1
Awesome video..im having misfire issues with my 2015 Audi S3 stage 2 tune by IE..anyway we could talk so I could describe my situation ? Its alot to describe what I have done and what its doing..thank you, Mike from NY
You're the Man brother. Thanks
No problem 👍
I'm a bit confused, if just replacing the tensioner, why remove that upper valve thing over the cam sprockets? Obviously it needs to be out of the way to place the sprocket locks, but none of that should move if you don't remove any chain guides right? Most of the videos don't show removal of that or any guides if not replacing the chain, just keeping tension by tie wrapping the chains in a few places to keep them snug, popping off the tensioner, putting the new one on, pulling the clip, and putting everything back together. I'm not saying they're right, I just want to know why you chose to go the route you do? I'm planning on doing this today or tomorrow, I have the special crank pully tool, and the bolt spacer, but I don't have the special tool for that upper valve thing, nor the sprocket locks. I planned on marking everything at the proper points to make sure there was no movement during the install.
It's very easy for the timing to jump first off and it doesn't take much more time to check other components for damage. Most of the time the tensioners fail causing severe engine damage. Also, the cam bridge should be replaced along with the oil control valve both require the top cover removed and parts are not that expensive and have a high failure rate. Do the job once, do it right.
I’m actually working on a Q5 right now and everything‘s good with it but it’s doing random misfires and I’m being told it’s because the timing chain has stretched and tensioner is all the way out. I did look through the view hole and it is pretty far out so I’m getting ready to attempt this job. And I have all the equipment. But since mine is not timed right now, I’ll be able to time it with these marks once I have the front off? Or do I have to do anything special like Ford or Chevy? Well, you got to roll the cams? Good video by the way thank you.
Timing chain stretch is probably not causing the miss, I have many videos about oil control valve and cam bridge that will cause those problems. Chain tensioner if not the new one should be changed immediately because it will just timing and destroy engine
I’m in Florida what state are you in. I got a 2010 EOS, love the car, runs great, will check the tensioner tomorrow, if I need it replaced I want bring my car to you, ship it to you, you seem like a good fella.
Thank you very much! Appreciate the feedback! NY but in the process of moving soon.
You mentioned that you prefer to have the engine out - - how much extra work is that and for a weekend warrior is this approach near the limit - cheers - love the videos - straight to the point not fat. - cheers
If you’re only doing the timing chain and guides then no I wouldn’t pull the engine for only that but if you had a rear main seal leak then yes you have to pull the engine for that. Because those rear main seals are known to blow if the PCV fails. And depending on your skill level it’s much more work to pull the engine if you don’t work on cars every day for a living.
@@motorcarnut excellent - thank you for the update
@@motorcarnut Do you have to pull the front bumper off in order to remove the engine? Did you drop the engine from below or did you lift it up and out from the top? Removed on a 2007 Passat and I had to removed the front bumper, radiatior support, etc...
No you don’t. I pulled the engine through the top
Very helpful cheers dude.
No problem 👍
Hey there I’m working on a 09 Passat tsi with the P0016 code, I replaced the solenoid and the cover for the VVT and when I clear the code it will start right up but as soon as I turn the car off, the code comes back. I took the front cover off and the timing seems correct. I’m not really sure where to go from here. Any info would be great, thank you.
Can be the oil control valve, or cam bridge I have videos on both
@@motorcarnut I did inspect that and the screen wasn’t missing and it seemed in good working order. I did replace the VVT and the magnet mechanism.
my GTI has 61K miles now. Its MK6 2010. How do you find out if you need to replace the tensioner? Thanks!
I have many videos on showing you the old and new tensioners
A question I have concerns the tensioner and how to count the grooves. Does the tensioner move from left to right (from the housing out) or do you count grooves from right to left?
So, if the clip is on a groove inside the housing, does that mean the timing chain is ok? I was shown a video from a mechanic who said the tension was on the 8th groove... and the timing chain needs to be replaced as a result. Just would like a better understanding. Thanks
Did you watch the complete video? You don’t count anything. Just install tensioner and release lock clip.
Did you reinstall the tensioner clip? Or leave it off?
No, that clip is to make it easy to install the tensioner, you have to remove it when installed so it put tension on the chain
@motorcarnut that's what I figured, just wanted to be sure. Thank you! Amazing video and detail by the way! You're a life saver! Thank you!
Thank you Bro! really appreciate that!
You're so welcome! Your video literally made such a world of difference, it's crazy. Never done timing before until now. Thank you again, you're videos and detail are unmatched! 🙌
Sorry to keep bombing your comments. Just had one final question. Once I turned the crank over twice, my marks line up perfectly, but on my cam side, the colored link is present. Is that normal? On your video, I don't see either colored link anymore
Anyone have a part number for the spacer for the crank bolt?
It's not just that tool, you need this kit to do the job correctly.
www.amazon.com/Yuesstloo-Camshaft-Crankshaft-Compatible-2006-2018/dp/B09L45K5C8/ref=asc_df_B09L45K5C8?mcid=dc99972e16be375c99fff7474fe7c77f&hvocijid=4353343499756971542-B09L45K5C8-&hvexpln=73&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=692875362841&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4353343499756971542&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004531&hvtargid=pla-2281435180978&th=1
Awesome video..im having misfire issues with my 2015 Audi S3 stage 2 tune by IE..anyway we could talk so I could describe my situation ? Its alot to describe what I have done and what its doing..thank you, Mike from NY
Posting here is best. Thank you
Did VW do a recall for this?
Not really
Where is the link for the specialty tools to remove the pullies ??
DPTOOL Engine Timing Tool Kit for VAG 1.8 2.0 TSI/TFSI EA888 T10352 T40196 T40271 T10368 T10354 with T10355 a.co/d/asLFiLS
HOW ABOUT CPKA 1.8T ENGINE WOULD THESE PRINCIIPLES APPPLY?
Above 2014 no, still had issues with timing chain stretch but not as common with tensioners
Not looking forward to this, how much do you charge just to Replace just the tensioner, just a rough estimate
We just don’t replace only the tensioner. Have to see what broke and what is salvageable.