Thanks for your videos - they really do help home mechanics - just replaced the rear main seal on my 2010 4motion Tiguan - I’m putting everything back together over the next few days - retired, so no rush - I installed 034 Motorsports billet seal - the original VW unit had delaminated causing a leak past the seal, the actual shaft portion was okay and not leaking - I completed the task with the Tiguan on 12 ton axle stands - I did not remove the subframe - just enough room to slide the transmission past everything. Again, your videos gave me the confidence to do these tasks. With the front suspension and CV shafts removed - I’m also replacing all suspension connections - ball joints, tie rods, and roll bar links, plus replacing front strut shocks - Bilstein. Plus changed the gear oil with the bevel box removed. Cheers
I would agree. Ihave inspected hundreds of these pvc's, aka, oil separators and manifolds They learned their lesson on the newer 2,0L T. But yes, the older ones, including the broken manifold shaft, were a disaster. GOOD VIDEO
I don’t know about other people but, carbon buildup on the intake valves and water pump leaks are my top two. I just installed the third water pump in my car due to catastrophic leakage and completed the second carbon cleaning @ 195,000 miles.
Great video's...I finally updated my tensioner and new chains ..Fired right up nicely but I had very old gas in the car and now I'm getting codes P0300 and P0301... It now does not fire upright away... I'm hoping I just need to dump gas and clean injectors and plugs..
Tks for the tips and things to watch iut; i hv just bought a 13years used 2011 Passat CC with 80,000km only, and will just change the necessary as suggested (before it is too late). Question: when should i change the PCV seal/timing chain tentioner again (or how many KM will it last when new?). Appreciate your input. Tks much.
Thank you very much! Appreciated. The upgraded timing chain tensioner should last the life of the vehicle now and the PCV valve too if you bought an OEM one.
@@motorcarnut do u mean after i hv the stock (old one) changed and replaced with new OEM and it will then last almost forever because of better quality now (for both tentiiner and pcv valve?
What would make a vacuum pump bust? Son was driving on the highway seen smoke. Pulled over and something made it bust right threw the metal and oil everywhere. I replaced that and fuel pump but no compression now when tested. Any idea? Thanks
I have a 2021 VW Tiguan 2.0 se and lots of vacuum/sucking during the running engine , I replaced the PCV valve but still the same , so when I remove the oil cap it sucks it... Any tips please?
@motorcarnut yes , I used the same part # . But also I tested the old PCV valve by blowing into the inlet side , and was fine working condition... Any thoughts? What else may cause the suction in engine?! Thank you
Many things like a clogged catalytic converter, EGR system etc, but your vehicle is pretty new so it would have to be checked to see how much vacuum it has. Are there any symptoms ?
Hi, thanks for your video Im thinking of buying an arteon 2023 with 8, 000 miles. Will this be a reliable car? Now that the car wil. Not be sold in the US, should i be concerned about parts for the vehicle?
First, thank you for your videos 👍 I have a Passat 2.0 T TSI 2009. I changed all that stuff and cam chains etc plus oil pump. Now I have NO oil pressure on idling. At all !! 😮. New 2nd pump. OEM goes up to normal/good pressure when driving, but immediately when it goes down to idling or coasting=no pressure. New pressure sensor Any ideas?
What you have to do is put a pump with metal impeller and it will last forever. I’ve done mine during first timing belt change preventatively and it’s still leak proof at 218,000km. It’s due for a third timing belt now and I will probably just keep the pump still.
thank you for your videos, I have a question: I want to buy a Tiguan year 2023 tsi 2.0 engine, please tell me if it still has the same problems on Volkswagen engines today
@@motorcarnut You are right... Too vague its a 2008 passat 2.0T BYP... Compression is good and even on all cylinders Rubber timing belt in good shape Good sparks Good pressure on the fuel line I Replaced Camshaft sensor Crankshaft sensor any help would be nice
Got the vac leak from PCV hole. Lots of pull by Oil Fill Cap too which was not properly fitted! Hope it is not the other Vac Actuator 2:20 issue but see in a week by garage. There is a 2nd Turbo PCV at lower rear left. Not sure if that is issue as only used a small boost around 3000rpm in driving and it stayed at low rpm to the garage whistling away.
I’m looking at beetles would the 2.5 or 1.8 be more reliable? I found a 2013 2.0 turbo with 100k, guy said tensioner was replaced under warranty and he changes oil regularly with amsoil euro, does that sound legit? Thanks
They both have their own quirks but one thing to remember is the 2.5 non turbo doesn't require premium fuel the 2.0 turbo does. Plus the 2,5 doesn't have a turbo to worry about either but the TSi 2.0 turbo engine is better overall in my opinion.
Unfortunately, the "new style" timing chain tensioner is no guarantee that your engine will not self destruct. The timing chain tensioner on my daughter's 2016 Jetta GLI failed and wiped out the head (bent valves). The car had less than 90,000 miles and is costing her $5,000 to repair!
@@motorcarnut Yea i had a customer that had one failed, burnt spot on medal that touches bottom of bulb and ordered another from used car and same burn spot. Just put a dab of solder and turn signal working fine now.
A be car is something that u can drive for 3 years if you a good person and financially stable it will take u for 5 years … should u proceed to 6 years your wife will dump you … they are nonsense cars I have a gti but futsek a Toyota will do period
Thanks for your videos - they really do help home mechanics - just replaced the rear main seal on my 2010 4motion Tiguan - I’m putting everything back together over the next few days - retired, so no rush - I installed 034 Motorsports billet seal - the original VW unit had delaminated causing a leak past the seal, the actual shaft portion was okay and not leaking - I completed the task with the Tiguan on 12 ton axle stands - I did not remove the subframe - just enough room to slide the transmission past everything. Again, your videos gave me the confidence to do these tasks. With the front suspension and CV shafts removed - I’m also replacing all suspension connections - ball joints, tie rods, and roll bar links, plus replacing front strut shocks - Bilstein. Plus changed the gear oil with the bevel box removed. Cheers
Awesome, thanks for the comment and feedback glad to help you out to do it right and save money! That’s what my channel is all about. Take care!
I would agree. Ihave inspected hundreds of these pvc's, aka, oil separators and manifolds They learned their lesson on the newer 2,0L T. But yes, the older ones, including the broken manifold shaft, were a disaster. GOOD VIDEO
Thank you for your feedback!
I don’t know about other people but, carbon buildup on the intake valves and water pump leaks are my top two. I just installed the third water pump in my car due to catastrophic leakage and completed the second carbon cleaning @ 195,000 miles.
Those are common as well unfortunately.
I had the same issue with my Tiguan. Recently, I changed the entire water pump system after 90 thousand KM.
Have you yet to replace the Timing Chain Tensioner?
I have 3 of the 4. Cam chain, pcv and vacuum. Thanks for video.
Great video's...I finally updated my tensioner and new chains ..Fired right up nicely but I had very old gas in the car and now I'm getting codes P0300 and P0301... It now does not fire upright away... I'm hoping I just need to dump gas and clean injectors and plugs..
Thank you! Well bad gas will cause a misfire for sure.
Great video. What can you say about the secondary air injection pump.
Injection pump is for emissions purposes, especially if the vehicle is California compliant.
Thanks!
Thank you for the donation, really appreciated! And you're welcome!
Tks for the tips and things to watch iut; i hv just bought a 13years used 2011 Passat CC with 80,000km only, and will just change the necessary as suggested (before it is too late). Question: when should i change the PCV seal/timing chain tentioner again (or how many KM will it last when new?). Appreciate your input. Tks much.
Thank you very much! Appreciated.
The upgraded timing chain tensioner should last the life of the vehicle now and the PCV valve too if you bought an OEM one.
@@motorcarnut do u mean after i hv the stock (old one) changed and replaced with new OEM and it will then last almost forever because of better quality now (for both tentiiner and pcv valve?
Correct!
What would make a vacuum pump bust? Son was driving on the highway seen smoke. Pulled over and something made it bust right threw the metal and oil everywhere. I replaced that and fuel pump but no compression now when tested. Any idea? Thanks
Sounds like you blew the engine if it have no compresion.
Is the turbo on a vw passat 2010 turbo a variable geometry?
No, stationary vane type.
Do you know if this is still an issue on the new Atlas 2.0t engine ?
For the most part, no, most parts that failed were updated. Something can still happen but that's just like with any vehicle.
I have a 2021 VW Tiguan 2.0 se and lots of vacuum/sucking during the running engine , I replaced the PCV valve but still the same , so when I remove the oil cap it sucks it... Any tips please?
Did you use a OEM part of aftermarket? This was a known problem on the 2020 to 2022 2.0 engine even more so.
@motorcarnut yes , I used the same part # . But also I tested the old PCV valve by blowing into the inlet side , and was fine working condition... Any thoughts? What else may cause the suction in engine?! Thank you
Many things like a clogged catalytic converter, EGR system etc, but your vehicle is pretty new so it would have to be checked to see how much vacuum it has. Are there any symptoms ?
Hi, thanks for your video
Im thinking of buying an arteon 2023 with 8, 000 miles. Will this be a reliable car? Now that the car wil. Not be sold in the US, should i be concerned about parts for the vehicle?
No, that vehicle is not related to these problems.
First, thank you for your videos 👍
I have a Passat 2.0 T TSI 2009. I changed all that stuff and cam chains etc plus oil pump. Now I have NO oil pressure on idling. At all !! 😮. New 2nd pump. OEM goes up to normal/good pressure when driving, but immediately when it goes down to idling or coasting=no pressure. New pressure sensor
Any ideas?
What I would do is take out the oil pressure sensor and put a gauge in that port and see the real oil pressure and let me know.
You forgot to mention the notorious water pump. That bustard is a weak point no.1 my opinion. Replaced 3 of them on my cc 2015
You know, I’ve never had one fail only leaking.
What you have to do is put a pump with metal impeller and it will last forever. I’ve done mine during first timing belt change preventatively and it’s still leak proof at 218,000km. It’s due for a third timing belt now and I will probably just keep the pump still.
Thank you for your video.
You are welcome!
thank you for your videos, I have a question: I want to buy a Tiguan year 2023 tsi 2.0 engine, please tell me if it still has the same problems on Volkswagen engines today
Most of the old problems were resolved, so you should be fine. Good luck
Is it the same for the 1.4 Tsi engine?
Not as much. The 2.0 is worse
what about a no crank no start on a 2008 Passat TSI with a 09G 927 750HJ Transmission... any help there?
Too vague, can be anything, but I would check compression, ignition and fuel system.
@@motorcarnut You are right... Too vague
its a 2008 passat 2.0T BYP...
Compression is good and even on all cylinders
Rubber timing belt in good shape
Good sparks
Good pressure on the fuel line
I Replaced
Camshaft sensor
Crankshaft sensor
any help would be nice
@josealmeida8910 ok but did you say no crank no start meaning it doesn’t crank over? I’m confused because how would you do a compression test?
@@motorcarnut Sorry... crank but doesn't start..........
If you did all that I would think its a wiring problem or the computer. It's also nice to know when did this start to happen?
CAN YOU REPLACE THE ROD AND MAIN BEARINGS WITH THE ENGINE STILL IN THE CAR???
Absolutely not, the crankshaft cannot be accessed.
Yes you can, but if your asking the question YOU probably can't.
@portagepete1 no you can’t on Tsi vws
Got the vac leak from PCV hole. Lots of pull by Oil Fill Cap too which was not properly fitted! Hope it is not the other Vac Actuator 2:20 issue but see in a week by garage. There is a 2nd Turbo PCV at lower rear left. Not sure if that is issue as only used a small boost around 3000rpm in driving and it stayed at low rpm to the garage whistling away.
Yes if left untreated it will blow the rear main seal so it’s good your getting it fixed now.
I’m looking at beetles would the 2.5 or 1.8 be more reliable? I found a 2013 2.0 turbo with 100k, guy said tensioner was replaced under warranty and he changes oil regularly with amsoil euro, does that sound legit? Thanks
That engine should have the new tensioner already from the factory so if they said they replaced it who knows if they are truthful.
@@motorcarnut thanks, is the 2.5L more reliable and longer lasting? I’m not really concerned with speed.
They both have their own quirks but one thing to remember is the 2.5 non turbo doesn't require premium fuel the 2.0 turbo does. Plus the 2,5 doesn't have a turbo to worry about either but the TSi 2.0 turbo engine is better overall in my opinion.
@ good to know, thanks !
No Problem!
With you experience what do u think of a 2021 vw passat with the 2.0 tsi
They are much more reliable than the previous generations, just enjoy!
You have a video about replacing the alternator?
Not yet but can make one soon
Unfortunately, the "new style" timing chain tensioner is no guarantee that your engine will not self destruct. The timing chain tensioner on my daughter's 2016 Jetta GLI failed and wiped out the head (bent valves). The car had less than 90,000 miles and is costing her $5,000 to repair!
Really? This is ridiculous. I didn’t really have any failures from 2013 up
Wow my 2014 GLI had 90k and no chain wear at all
I have noticed the rear left turn signal sockets fail as well.
Never experienced that yet but appreciate the info!
@@motorcarnut Yea i had a customer that had one failed, burnt spot on medal that touches bottom of bulb and ordered another from used car and same burn spot. Just put a dab of solder and turn signal working fine now.
@Fortworthman999 gotcha, I’ve replaced many on older BMWS
Hii........my vwcc 2012 often drags when i start but once its warm it works normal. Pls what could be the cause of that?
Can be anything to do with the valve timing on these cars. I have many videos on these problems.
It could also be the carbon deposits build up on the intake valves
@MrTatica1973 that’s a big one!
A be car is something that u can drive for 3 years if you a good person and financially stable it will take u for 5 years … should u proceed to 6 years your wife will dump you … they are nonsense cars I have a gti but futsek a Toyota will do period
Toyotas fail too can’t even make it off the assembly line. All manufacturers cut quality for profits
If a timing chain is going to go out every 60 to 70,000 miles that is definitely not a reliable car
Timing chain should last the life of the vehicle but most never do.
Agreed, thats trash. Should last 100-200k on reliable engines.
@@shadf7902 😉