EMF 2013 Dodge Ram 3500 Ball Joint Install
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- Опубліковано 27 лип 2024
- Full Removal of old ball joints and Installation of new EMF Rebuildable Ball Joints on a 2013.5 + Dodge Ram 3500. What to look for, how to properly set the ball joints and some tips and tricks we have learned along the way.
0:00 - How to look for play in ball joints
3:45 - Removal of all components before Ball Joints
8:08 - Removal of Old Ball Joints on Passenger Side
18:14 - Install of new EMF Ball Joints on Passenger Side, Torquing, Greasing and Testing
39:36 - Driver Side Install, Torque, Greasing and Testing - Авто та транспорт
So I bought Synergy Ball joints but after watching your guys videos and the rebuild process I am sold!! Taking Synergy back Monday Getting me some BMF'n EMF ball joints...
if anyone is looking for ball joints for a ram 2500 or 3500 look no further ... i installed these on a 2012 ram 2500 with 6" lift and 37" tires and boy did they do the trick ... 45,000 miles later on pothole infested highways and they are in the same shape as day one .. the price is a bonus !!
curious if you also beat the shit out of the knuckle with a sledge? any issues with install? are the nylocks also wired castle nuts?
Not only the toughest ball joints, but also the toughest C clamp known to man!
Awesome video, really helps us DIY guys at home trying to do things the right way
When removing several of these ball joints I found the c-clamp had too much deflection and would bind the joint on the way out. I built a puller with two 1" plates with threaded rod on either end and a hole in the center of one for pin clearance. Tighten each side equally and hit the axle yoke/balljoint bore with hammer in-between each tightening. Always works for me on those stubborn BJs and never had a joint fuck the bore on the way out. Installed 2 sets of these emf joints on my personal truck and beat the shit outta them and they're like new. Thank you EMF crew
Didn't realize mine were still stock at 105k when I bought it. Went to change them and struggled mightly to get them out. Should have watched this! So much satisfaction watching them wail on the clamp with a sledge!
A salute to your attention to detail, I received my ball joints and will be installing them in short order, looking forward to never taking them out again!! lol
These guys know their stuff, great vid.
Ive never seen that type of adjustable ball joint before, I'm glad I watched and learned.
Great camera work and lighting too.
Alberta FTW!
Stay gold.
Sledge on the c clamp , gold , ty so much for this video , saved me a lot of heartache today
Great video
I heated mine up with a torch to expand the area, makes a huge difference...much easier....
2015 power wagon 50 k gonna do all 4 of mine this weekend. Awesome vid 👌
how did it go? did you need a sledge??
@@AN-kg4ei my Florida/California truck with 75k wasn't as bad. But it still needed some persuasions
Heat is always your friend!
Im a little hessian on sledgehammering in the outside knuckle. Ive found a little heat helps more than a hammer. Bending any of those components will be a game changer
ball joints and beers, cheers!!
Well done hard jobs
*Gets it 3/4 in* “Yeah it’s going straight.” My kind of comment lmao
Would you recommend putting anti seize on the surface mating flange (not the taper bore) and the threads on the joints? Additionally how high would you recommend getting the front end off the ground to get a good angle with the sledge? This is looking like a weekend driveway job I might need to build jacks for.
I thought that was Pepper Keenan @ first LOL!!
dang. you guys earn your money.
What parts brand did you use? Great job!
Aviation mech trick for install. Heat the knuckle and put the ball joint in a freezer or better in liquid nitrogen right before install. Ball joint will fall into place, no pressing no beating.
@@Edwinke11ey fact
I was thinking the same thing
I ordered a set they going in today.
Great video!! At 10:11 what is that silver cup your using at the bottom of the ball joint? I’ve noticed none of my cups seem to fit right and the press wants to get all out of wack once pressure is applied. Thanks!
Just bought a box of these for the upper and lowers on my ‘01 Dodge 2500. Followed this video and the excellent printed instructions. The top BJ torques down just fine. The bottom just spins despite following the directions. I’ve left a few texts on their tech line earlier today. I’ll let you guys know what happens. They appear to be really stout and the install tools are a great help.
how are they holding up?
@@superflyguy218 wow, I‘m pretty late with the reply so sorry. They’re incredible, After 50K miles or so I’ve added maybe 1/2 to 1 full pump full of grease to just the upper BJś (Redline if it matters) I wouldn’t own a 2nd Gen without these.
Needed to use my floor Jack to put pressure on the lower BJ to prevent the spinning. They’ve proven to be bombproof. Very well designed product and I really appreciated the included install & adjustment tools
Have you guys ever try to use a air hammer near the brake rotor studs to vibrate the rotor? Ive used it in the past, mostly since i dont have the upper body strength to do that
Fucking love you man you solved dodges design flaws.
Why not spray penetratingly fluid on them, I used the old standby WD-40 on mine, and they came straight out. Mine were factry, 210,000 miles.
I wish I could tell what cups you used for that lower ball joint. I am having hell with it
Why wasnt any heat used on the steering knuckle just curious
I always wondered why my trucks steering and handling turned to shit after replacing ball joints... nothing is likely the same after getting beat and pryed to death. I think doing this yourself where you can use time and lots of penetrating oil would work better...may as well replace the axle seals while its apart. Since the parts are junk I'd be using a torch a bit more too.
Have you had to do one of these yet? I’m doing mine next weekend and I’m in the fabrication business and I thought the same about the torch. I wouldn’t try this without a torch to at least pre heat the metal around the ball joint. If you did try this method, how’d it work?
That press is impressive. What is the make/model of the press you are using that can take the beating from the hammer and the impact tools?
Jet it's not an expensive set. But I've used it for about 12 years now.
The part number is visible on the press. 521808-1. A google search takes you right to it.
It looks like it's larger than the standard auto parts store rental tool.
I am get play front to back not up and down on my 2016 2500 would that be tie rod?
Can anyone tell me what ball joint tool (brand) they are using? The terrible HF that I have for my 2nd & 3rd gen dodge gets it done but is a PIA.
I guess the matco BJP18100 would make taking out and installing those ball joints a lot easier
I hate doing that job. Just did it on a Jeep TJ, it sucked, but was small parts compared to a big truck..
I spray a whole bunch of skunk piss i
on the ball joints and let them soak.Sometimes overnight and they come out like butter.PB Blaster is your friend
Wow was that the smoothest wheel bearing removal. Now does the puller usually do the job? I find especially on any truck that’s rusty with original wheel bearings after 200k I have to try everything. Try the power steering trick, air hammer, torches. It’s especially hard if you wanna save the bearing. You guys ever run into this ?
We use the power steering truck but we've damaged the seat for the u joints on the axle ear on really ignorant bearings. The 13 and up is way easier than the 03 to 10. I like the actual puller. The three jaw works well and is more common in diy tool boxes. And the power steering truck works for everyone. You have to watch not to wreck the bearing with the puller.
I used a puller on mine as well, It worked great, hope you guys used anti-seize when putting it back together.
can you guys tell me if i can go with my truck here in texas it is deleted and i will register it there in canada ?
Looks like a hell of a job even for these pros. Got me a little worried about doing my own 😬
Thinking the same thing. I've done a fair bit of front end work and this looked a little tighter than I'm used to. I'd likely honk too hard with my air impact and mess something up. I've never been brave enough to beat that hard on knuckle ears. Might leave this for the pros too.
Ya, there's gonna be a lot of prep work to make sure it can be done over a weekend.
Any idea what the interference should be? Trying to install a track bar ball joint and we're seeing .010 interference, seems like way too much...
Dam I have a job for a 2017 3500 4x4 is it the same I thought the F550 were hard Dodge is scaring me I don't want to damage my ball joint kit hammering on the clamp.
What kit do you have ? The snap on ones do it easier
I done this a few days ago on a 01 ram 2500 definitely wasn’t a good time. When the new ball joints crap out in buying a new truck
You'll never go thru these joints. I have 150,000 miles on mine and opened them up to see how they look. They look like new and I have 22" wheels(-45 offset) with 35's and a 6 inch lift. I've taken this truck thru bad roads in Colorado and New Mexico. I've driven across the US. These are bullet proof, seriously.
What kind of Ball joint press do you guys use?
What size is your c clamp? It appears mine is. Too small.
Interesting using a puller to pull the wheel bearing. Every time i have tried that it pulls the wheel bearing apart. I went to a air hammer tool that hammers on the bolts that hold the wheel bearing in.
My neighbors was rust welded in his 11 enclave, I'm like yea take it to a shop I don't wanna beat the fuck out of your wheel bearing, break it then be stuck having to take the knuckle off the rear(big job) not worth the 100 I was gonna charge him for labor lol
@@johnnyversaci7091 Use a socket with extension on the end of the knuckle bolts. Wedge it against the frame of the truck. Turn the steering wheel to break it loose. Works like a charm.
Just curious, how many miles was it before those ball joints were taken out...?
I don't remember. We've seen trucks with 250000km on factory joints and trucks with hammered joints at 25000km. The one thing they have in common is bad scrubbing of the tires.
So my 2014 ram 2500 , front ball joints messed up and im still at 38000 miles. Truck is drifting to the right and i hear a constant knocking sound on the driver side...
Is there movement in the joints? Are they our joints? Knocking can come from a variety of things. Most commonly the shock bushing on the lower mount. There are body mounts that cause a knocking. The steering knocks between the box and fire wall.
@@EMFEVO These are factory ball joints for this ram 2014 2500 diesel. And I just checked the ball joints again. The lower ball joint is worn out, and the track bar is out too. Jeesh ....
I've found that battery tools are nice but a 3/4 impact gun works quick and your done.
Why don't you disassemble the ball joint so you don't risk damaging the threads on the studs for the installation?
I'm ready to install my EMF ball joints on my 05 Ram 2500. I've heard freezing the ball joints makes it easier to press in. Any issues with that method?
Kind of a waste of time. Put pressure on the clamp and hit it with a 3 pound hammer. Tighten the clamp and hit it again. It's the best way to ensure you don't damage the hole and it helps the joint go in straight. More effective than freezing is using a heat gun on the axle. It opens the hole more than freezing the joint shrinks the body.
Thank you, got them in and looking forward to to years of service.
freezing the and heating the knuckle makes things much easier just dont heat the knuckle too much.
@@dodgedak03 Any gotchas with the install? Did you primarily use air tools or did you follow as in video beating it with a bfh and using more finesse with hand tools?
@@AN-kg4ei The biggest issue I had was having the right size spacer rings for my clamp press. Once I had the right spacer rings, install was similar to the video. Tighten clamp press then hit the clamp with a hammer, repeat until the ball joint is flushed. Don't forget to orient the grease zerk to an accessible direction.
That electric hammer is a toy. time for a new one. put a little lube on the new ball joint for easier install. Also I believe the manufacturer of the C clamp recommends putting oil on the threads
Boy I've never seen that much hammering for ball joints before. Maybe mine were just easier? I don't live in a salty/rusty area though.
Both of you r good machanics
What brand of press are you guys using
Jet and I think otc
Your is bigger… smiles… got a like for that
"You can hear the play in the ball joint". Well, I can feel it in my steering wheel, so I better get these installed pronto.
did you replace the axel seal?
No that's a whole different ball of wax. Center section has to come out to do that.
@@EMFEVO It's a right pain in the ass, I rebuilt my entire front end 2 years ago, took me 3 weeks with the proper tools, never again F that.
No how about telling me where i can get EMF joints for my 2001 Ram 2500, they are out of stock from everyone.
I'm in the same boat. Unfortunately, due to limitations in resources (likely raw materials, labour and logistics), it can be tricky at best these days especially for small production lines. I've asked around and it sounds like everyone is hoping for 4-6wk replenishment. If I can't get them before the snow flies, I may be looking at another option such as Carli.
They need to stop striking the knuckle to remove the tie rod ends that's gonna crack it. Strike it on top with the nut on top and just remove it that way
god i hate doing balljoints
Invest in some good air tools they are not nearly as bulky and way more torque .
all that,,,,,,for that 8000$ bill
If I walked into the shop and saw my guys beating on the c clamp I would send them on their way. Good way to destroy the clamp.
You just power your ball joints in with the clamp?
@@EMFEVO no hit the knuckle with a smaller hammer the shock breaks the friction better than hitting the tool and a lot easier on you.
@@EMFEVO switching tou EMF balljoints on my F350 after trying dynas on my last super duty hit a rock hunting and trashed one of the lowers. You guys have a much better product.
@@EMFEVO just got my set for my 2001 F350 cant wait to install them.
Need to get a real air gun
The air gun is stronger than the C-Clamp.
Forcing with a bigger air gun will bend the C-Clamp.
Stay gold.
This is exactly WHY IM DIY AND WILL NEVER TAKE MY EXPENSIVE DIESEL TRUCK TO A MECHANIC SHOP . They don’t care to take care of things or other peoples shit they just do whatever it take to get the job done even if that means bang the and pry the fuck out of shit and causing damage to other components
Dog, you own a 24V. Get off your high horses.
This is a Candian truck, it's seen 7 winters, rust in a real thing, it lockes the ball joint in. It's not actually this difficult in normal scenarios. Also that beef 9.25 isn't getting hurt by then beating on jt
You’re an buffoon for this comment, obviously you’ve never done one of these