Built a 20t press a few years ago. Never want to be without one again. It's one of those tools that don't get used every day in my shop, but when I need it......... danged glad it's there. Thanks for another great video, Eric!
This is awesome I just did a wheel bearing on. 2500slt Cummins Sunday night. I had to use my smallest snapon chisel. And beat that hub of the spindle. It was a nightmare. I’m a rookie diesel tech fresh out of the Army 11 years. New to the civilian market. Been working on green things forever. Your videos inspire me I hope one day I will own shop of and have my wife running the front. Thank you again. Scouts Out!
when I started 20 years ago I always hammered the joints out where you said to smack to jar it loose in the press. now the past couple of years ive used a ball joint press, and fount that a lot easier to do.
I bought a 1/4 drive impact driver at harbor freight, $60 over a year ago. I bought it to removed 8mm and smaller fasteners. I used it for a month every day at the shop, then I used it to build my deck, I bought 2 extra batteries ($26 for both) and used it nonstop for hours. I Still use it every day at the shop, still working great! I wouldnt say ALL the tools at harbor freight are great, BUT for $60, I think I got my moneys worth! I am glad to see you have had good luck with your harbor freight impact, Its on my list to buy ;) Keep up the great work! ( I also have a the earthquake 1/2 air impact, use that daily too.)
You're a lucky man to have such a sweet wife take care of you like she does...! That said, you're a good man for working so hard to care for your family. Great video.... you're awesome to watch. love your sense of humor!
Greetings from Edmonton. This is THE best vid on a mechanical repair I have ever seen. I have an '02 Ram 2500 with at least one of the front wheel U joints worn, perhaps not as far gone as those shown, but in need of replacement [they click when I have driven the truck for awhile and am tuning into my driveway]. Thank you, and kudos to you for the great instruction. Just to add, I love it that you have the cam set up stationary, so that it isn't buzzing all over the place like a fly. The viewer can actually see what you are doing.
one of the hardest jobs I did was to rebuild the frozen u joints on my 71 blazer front end. they were so frozen the power steering was having trouble moving them in jerks. Nasty, rusty, ugh.Love this gentle persuasion video.
When you take your bearing caps off the U joint always put a few squirts of grease in them right away. That will always keep you from dropping a needle bearing when you go back to put them in. And leave the grease zirk out till last. That way when the bearing caps go back in it will fill the U joint up with Greece and come out the zirk hole. Love all your videos. Thanks for sharing...
I’ve owned several Dodge diesels, done lots of front wheel u joints. I’ve had the best luck with longevity with the Spicer non greaseable ones. Just my 2cents. Great video!!
He mentioned spicer and said he really hasnt had any better luck with them than others. In my experience I agree with you the non greasable spicers last a very long time. My last ones on my 01 ram 2500 diesel lasted just shy of 200k miles!
I put a wooden drawer pull knob on my press pressure release screw. Turns super easy and saves on the fingers and having to grab the handle all the time.
Hey Eric I Now understand why Auto Mechanics start There Own Business. Dealers are Not Paying Mechanics for the WORK they Do. It's HARD WORK and it's WORTH MORE THAN $25 AN HOUR! GODSPEED TAKE CARE BROTHER.
Good job learning after work, keep it up. You can learn and be fast, fast is in the brain not the muscle. Keep it up, get your own helper. Make 200k in 5 years. Its highly possible.
To say you'll take on a challenge is understatement, Eric. Like someone pointed out, replace the ball joints while you're at it. If the customer is willing.
I bought one of those earthquake impacts after watching you use yours... I charged it one time and did about 10 front end jobs... and even pulled some duels off of a dump truck before I even charged it the second time. They are worth the money... the electricity you save from not having to run the air compressor will pay for the tool... good find guy.
You remind me of living up north. I grew up in Champlain NY on the border by Vermont. Nice video! I can tell you've done that a thousand times. Very cool my man. Viva NY!!!
i used to struggle on the press like you to do the tough u joints. until i saw a coworker use a ball joint c clamp press. you can use a truck anchor pin press on the bigger ones. clamp the shaft in a vice and go easy with an impact works like a dream. and if not the flame wrench comes out.
I am running Spicer 5-3212X U Joints which are part of the Spicer Life series. Triple sealed for your protection. Keeping my fingers crossed they last longer that the stock AAM junk.
I always use to dab a little grease in the cups to hold the needle bearings in place. Dropped a few in the early days and had it lay sideways at the bottom of the cup and then had to take them apart again and rest the needles. Glad you showed everybody how to tap the sides with the hammer to equalize the tension on the u joint and make it smooth from the pressure of assembly.
I did snuff driveshafts when I was drag racing to do an axle, its the same operation, just harder to get to the thing ! I'm get tired just watching you do this man .
Super cool video!! The only thing I do differently is put the U-joints in a vice, like you did, open it up, take your Worm-drive skilsaw or Cutoff, I like the Skilsaw because it has so much torque and great handles, put a metal cutting blade on and cut through the old U-Joints. Once they're out, punch all of the caps IN, cleaner, 10 times faster and most of us don't have huge presses.
Great video, helped immensely. I'm not very mechanically inclined but after watching your video (a few times) I tackled the repair. Got er done!! Thank you for the material!!
First time I did a set of GM nylon-locked u-joints, I not only bent the ears of the yoke, but I also bent my Harbor "Fright" ball joint press! Instead of a "C" it was more closely resembling a "V". 😂 I paid $50 for that press from a Harbor Fright in Phoenix back in '99, long before they were heard of in the Northeast. Still have it! I heated the hell out of it, leaned it up against a 30-yard WM dumpster that was here at the time, and took 4 full over-the-shoulder swings with a full-sized sledgehammer onto it - 2 swings on each end - after heating the shnazz out of it with Mapp for 10 minutes. It worked!! Twas that day that I learned to MELT the nylon, and not try to muscle through it, just because you've got a press! 😁 You've got a great woman there Eric! Mine cooks for me too, but she works at a salon full time, so I end up eating the same smoked turkey sandwich, smothered in horsey sauce, for years on end, lol. She'll usually cook supper for me in the morning (she works late), and throw it in the fridge, so all I have to do is toss it in the nukeulator for a minute or 2, and supper is ready. One of the many reasons I married this one. 😉
We don’t get much of that rust here in California. Just a small amount from living a block form the ocean. That reminds me, I need to do the U-joints on my Chivy Tahoe. Thanks.
A couple weeks ago I got to do this on a truck from Texas. Guy was up in Alberta Canada visiting. Half hour start to finish on one side. No rust anywhere, the bearing just slid out of the knuckle when the 4 bolts were loose. took under 10 mins to do the ujoint, a couple taps and all the cups were out. Was an '06 ram 3500 with almost 300 000 miles too. The bearings and ujoints were original. And normally when all goes well on trucks around here it can still be like a 2-3hr job on one side.
Eric you should give Ammex GloveWorks a shot. They are much stronger than latex. If you happen to search for the gloves they are orange in color with little dimples on the hands for better grip. I switched last year. Best thing I’ve done in a while.
Eric, you said "it helps if you make grunting noises". I think you need to be careful with that technique. I tried that just recently and got something called a Bilateral Hernia. I don't think I'll use that technique anymore. Always great vids! Keep up the great work. Thank You.
I don’t know how people afford vehicles in NY. I purchased a 2005 4x4 V10 Excursion 3 years ago with 180k miles. I put in a new HD transmission and did a head gasket change 2 years ago. She is running like a champ and I plan on riding her for another 15-20 years. I’ll just do the maintenance as needed. I guess living in SW Washington State where it rains 9 mo per year but we never put salt on the road has its advantages. I also have a 1986 F350 with the 460 and while she needs new exhaust manifold gaskets, the bones are in great shape.
You should mention the proper location for the grease fitting on the u-joint. You got it in the right place, angled to the opening between the ears of the drive shaft. You also clocked it correctly so that part of the u-joint cross will close under drive forces. The hole for the grease fitting makes that area slightly weaker between those two cross arms. If it is under tension, where driving forces will spread the cross arms, then it is more likely to break. Under compression it is less likely to break. Good job. I'm soooooo glad to not live in the rusty part of the country any more.
Just did my passenger's side u-joint. Not too bad to do. This video definitely helped with confidence in doing the work! Ended up putting a Moog grease fitting joint in it. Will probably do the driver's side before that one goes too!
i’m glad I caught this video I have the vacuum set up on my truck. will definitely make sure she’s in four-wheel-drive before I get started on the front end.👍 I guess I’m a little old-school/impatient i would’ve chucked the Electric impact after about 30 seconds and grabbed the air impact😜
Your explainations during your repair vids are very helpful , Thanks for not being a ranting raving lunatic , keep up the great work and the great vids , wish every mech , had your work ethics , no wonder I'm doing 95 % my own repairs kneeing on piece of ole carpet or cardboard in my driveway . Mechs in my neck the woods are crooks and take too many short cuts .
It amazes me the difference in repairs between the northeast and the south, you talk about doing all this work at 44k like it’s just common place, here in Georgia we don’t start doing repairs like this on these trucks til like 175k-200k or say 10-15 years old
I must say Mr O, your hat has about had it, btw the rotor safety washers are for the assembly line so that the rotors don’t fall off and hit someone wile on the assembly line
I can't believe your hubs and u-joints are gone at 44K! My 06 2500 has 250,000 miles on the original hub/wheel bearings and it's only on it's second set of u-joints. That's insane.
I have an 03 with 135000, my u joints are shot, but I’m letting them go a while yet until this summer when I’m doing ball joints. Far as I know its the originals yet.
how the heck did you learn all this stuff,it's mind boggling to me,how you know every little detail on a thousand different jobs,kudos to you mr o,an apprentice mechanic would be lucky to work for you in learning the trade.
good vid - had to do my 2007 last year (2018) and although in Canada i live far enough North that we don't bother with salt for a lot of the winter since it is not effective below minus 18 so not worth using it. I used the press like you since hammering on these is not good, too easy to bend stuff, doing the U-joints, Wheel bearings, and every U-joint in the whole truck had to be done over a period of a couple years, it is just part of the pleasure of owning a 2500 i guess. I did the socket and short extension trick for the wheel bearing removal and it worked pretty well. Great video - thanks.
My truck lost the passenger side wheel bearings on the Nevada/Utah line and i live in Elmore, Ohio on Lake Erie while on a wheeling trip. 2012 Ram 2500 6.7 Long Horn Laramie 4x4 with 148k. That cost me nearly 3k!!! It was a Sunday and i was hauling my Jeep to Northern California to The Rubicon Trail so i needed to have my trailer towed to their shop as well and since it was a casino town, the parts was a 2 hour each way trip… that one hurt and they were fine when i left my house! Thankfully i bought my truck in Atlanta, Georgia and it stays in my heated shop… no rust!
The retaining clips over the wheel studs from my understanding are installed from factory to lessen the chances of the rotor falling off and injuring an employee during assembly of the vehicle. I guess the brake caliper and bracket are installed further down the line.They are easily removed with a pair of wire cutters or as they are referred to as "dikes". Use them on one of the detent flanges and yank it off. Hope this saves you some time. Keep up the great work.
I live and work in upstate NY (Albany, Schenectady, Troy area). Half the roads I travel on are dirt up here. The dirt roads never give-up the salts and when it rains that dirt sticks to everything under the truck..bringing with it the salts and abrasives in the mud/dirt. Vehicles just don't last that long up here. It's cheaper for us to locate an unsuspecting Southern Car with some miles on it..and bring it to its certain death up here in NY than to buy new. Trucks are so expensive now too..it's just not practical to purchase a new car up here.
I don't know why more people don't do that? If I still lived there i would be driving down south, buying super clean vehicles for dirt cheap and driving them back home to use for half the cost!!
I took a dremel with a conical stone bit. Ground down the rust and surface of the U Joint you could get to inside the yolk before pressing out. Make sense? The cap wasnt stuck on the inner part of the cap in the yolk after pressing out. Made life 10xs easier. Children didnt like the explosion noises when u joint finally gave loose from 20 ton press and hit of air hammer. Works. Sanded off rust inside yolk with fine emery cloth and lube. Filed very small chamber on yolk outside and inside. Wire brushed clean the inside of yolk so c clios didnt catch anything going in u joint.
Good work and helpful tips on this job. A press does make it easier then betting on a u joint out in the driveway, this video brought back painful memories from when I did this kind of job and ended up in the hospital with a screwdriver stuck in my thumb.
Harbor Freight sells a pack of wire wheels for about seven or eight bucks it will help you clean up all the rusty parts if you stick it in a drill I was working on Class A vehicles that did International routes so I dealt with all kinds of rust and having just simple wire wheels on a drill made my job so much easier
I'm a tech in PA and I thought cars were nasty down here...no comparison. Still Dodge's usually need basically a new front end every 40k - cha ching. I envy mechanics in Florida lol
I tack welded a little piece of round stock about 3 inches long on the piece that you turn to take the pressure off the jack on the press, that way you do not have to keep using your handle to turn it, just clamp a pair of needle nose vice grips on it when you weld it to keep the heat from going into it and keep it cool while you weld it, good luck
Holy shit look at all that rust... bought my 2012 last year from Atlanta, Georgia and drove her back up here to Elmore, Ohio and had her hot oil sprayed and it is my daily, deleted the 6.7 and got her tuned to well over a thousand pound feet and almost 700 ponies but it is immaculate underneath and it has 136k on it... underneath looks better then my wife’s 2016 Silverado 1500 Z-71 we bought brand new 3 years ago, crazy!
Eric, I found it easier to heat up the wheel bearing bolts first, especially since your going to replace it. I am sure you already knew that and didn't feel like pulling the torches out.
Built a 20t press a few years ago. Never want to be without one again. It's one of those tools that don't get used every day in my shop, but when I need it......... danged glad it's there. Thanks for another great video, Eric!
This is awesome I just did a wheel bearing on. 2500slt Cummins Sunday night. I had to use my smallest snapon chisel. And beat that hub of the spindle. It was a nightmare. I’m a rookie diesel tech fresh out of the Army 11 years. New to the civilian market. Been working on green things forever. Your videos inspire me I hope one day I will own shop of and have my wife running the front. Thank you again.
Scouts Out!
Thank you for your service, from Alberta Canada
I've done this job on a '99 and a '01 in Rome, NY. I now reside in Nevada and you have my sympathy!
Eric, you are the Picasso, the Van Gogh of mechanics. Watching you work is a beautiful thing. ;-)
when I started 20 years ago I always hammered the joints out where you said to smack to jar it loose in the press. now the past couple of years ive used a ball joint press, and fount that a lot easier to do.
It's amazing what New York roads do to vehicles in the winter. Working on commercial vehicles, especially plow trucks, is tough for that reason.
I bought a 1/4 drive impact driver at harbor freight, $60 over a year ago. I bought it to removed 8mm and smaller fasteners. I used it for a month every day at the shop, then I used it to build my deck, I bought 2 extra batteries ($26 for both) and used it nonstop for hours. I Still use it every day at the shop, still working great! I wouldnt say ALL the tools at harbor freight are great, BUT for $60, I think I got my moneys worth! I am glad to see you have had good luck with your harbor freight impact, Its on my list to buy ;) Keep up the great work! ( I also have a the earthquake 1/2 air impact, use that daily too.)
You're a lucky man to have such a sweet wife take care of you like she does...! That said, you're a good man for working so hard to care for your family. Great video.... you're awesome to watch. love your sense of humor!
SuperDave21 Calm down, teacher’s pet.
@@darthgeorge28 little salty cause he wasnt talking about you?
Salty George
Greetings from Edmonton. This is THE best vid on a mechanical repair I have ever seen. I have an '02 Ram 2500 with at least one of the front wheel U joints worn, perhaps not as far gone as those shown, but in need of replacement [they click when I have driven the truck for awhile and am tuning into my driveway]. Thank you, and kudos to you for the great instruction. Just to add, I love it that you have the cam set up stationary, so that it isn't buzzing all over the place like a fly. The viewer can actually see what you are doing.
one of the hardest jobs I did was to rebuild the frozen u joints on my 71 blazer front end. they were so frozen the power steering was having trouble moving them in jerks. Nasty, rusty, ugh.Love this gentle persuasion video.
Will someone please sponsor this man, cause he freaking deserves it
Some people go to big fancy schools to learn how to work on junk. But Eric O learned from the best. Grandma herself lol
When you take your bearing caps off the U joint always put a few squirts of grease in them right away. That will always keep you from dropping a needle bearing when you go back to put them in. And leave the grease zirk out till last. That way when the bearing caps go back in it will fill the U joint up with Greece and come out the zirk hole. Love all your videos. Thanks for sharing...
Noticed your Hearing Protection with Big Nasty.
I turned up the volume so I could wear mine.
Thanks for Sharing.
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I’ve owned several Dodge diesels, done lots of front wheel u joints. I’ve had the best luck with longevity with the Spicer non greaseable ones. Just my 2cents.
Great video!!
He mentioned spicer and said he really hasnt had any better luck with them than others. In my experience I agree with you the non greasable spicers last a very long time. My last ones on my 01 ram 2500 diesel lasted just shy of 200k miles!
wheel joints that is. My rear driveshaft ones tend to go a little sooner.
Agree those ujoints are all I use.
I put a wooden drawer pull knob on my press pressure release screw. Turns super easy and saves on the fingers and having to grab the handle all the time.
Thats a really good idea . Going to take a knob off the wife dresser now.
Hey Eric
I Now understand why Auto Mechanics start There Own Business.
Dealers are Not Paying Mechanics for the WORK they Do.
It's HARD WORK and it's WORTH MORE THAN $25 AN HOUR!
GODSPEED TAKE CARE BROTHER.
Probably one of the best vids on the subject, like being an apprentice. I’ll keep tuning in!
Good job learning after work, keep it up. You can learn and be fast, fast is in the brain not the muscle. Keep it up, get your own helper. Make 200k in 5 years. Its highly possible.
You and Deboss are my two favorite channels by far
To say you'll take on a challenge is understatement, Eric. Like someone pointed out, replace the ball joints while you're at it. If the customer is willing.
I bought one of those earthquake impacts after watching you use yours... I charged it one time and did about 10 front end jobs... and even pulled some duels off of a dump truck before I even charged it the second time. They are worth the money... the electricity you save from not having to run the air compressor will pay for the tool... good find guy.
True but the power don’t compare to pneumatic guns.
You remind me of living up north. I grew up in Champlain NY on the border by Vermont. Nice video! I can tell you've done that a thousand times. Very cool my man. Viva NY!!!
i used to struggle on the press like you to do the tough u joints. until i saw a coworker use a ball joint c clamp press. you can use a truck anchor pin press on the bigger ones. clamp the shaft in a vice and go easy with an impact works like a dream. and if not the flame wrench comes out.
richard cranium Tiger tool makes really good ones.
Never had access to a press, so a C clamp is all I ever used on Dodge U joints like this and the long driveshaft on the long B350 vans.
I am running Spicer 5-3212X U Joints which are part of the Spicer Life series. Triple sealed for your protection. Keeping my fingers crossed they last longer that the stock AAM junk.
Just did ujoints and ball joints on my 2012, 3500. 207,000 miles. First time I touched the front end, I bought her brand new.
I always use to dab a little grease in the cups to hold the needle bearings in place. Dropped a few in the early days and had it lay sideways at the bottom of the cup and then had to take them apart again and rest the needles. Glad you showed everybody how to tap the sides with the hammer to equalize the tension on the u joint and make it smooth from the pressure of assembly.
That's one hell of a job. Without an air hammer and a press this would be impossible. Great video Mr O.
Actually not, I just did it with out a press and air hammer. Lots if ways to do it.
I did snuff driveshafts when I was drag racing to do an axle, its the same operation, just harder to get to the thing ! I'm get tired just watching you do this man .
Super cool video!! The only thing I do differently is put the U-joints in a vice, like you did, open it up, take your Worm-drive skilsaw or Cutoff, I like the Skilsaw because it has so much torque and great handles, put a metal cutting blade on and cut through the old U-Joints. Once they're out, punch all of the caps IN, cleaner, 10 times faster and most of us don't have huge presses.
The color of money is brown up in the north east.
Great video, helped immensely. I'm not very mechanically inclined but after watching your video (a few times) I tackled the repair. Got er done!!
Thank you for the material!!
Incredible mechanic-Changing those hubs takes extreme talent.
Really appreciate the incremental approach: load-vibration, load -vibration ! Great (wise) technique. !!!
Best video I’ve watched on here for changing the hub assembly
First time I did a set of GM nylon-locked u-joints, I not only bent the ears of the yoke, but I also bent my Harbor "Fright" ball joint press! Instead of a "C" it was more closely resembling a "V". 😂 I paid $50 for that press from a Harbor Fright in Phoenix back in '99, long before they were heard of in the Northeast. Still have it! I heated the hell out of it, leaned it up against a 30-yard WM dumpster that was here at the time, and took 4 full over-the-shoulder swings with a full-sized sledgehammer onto it - 2 swings on each end - after heating the shnazz out of it with Mapp for 10 minutes. It worked!! Twas that day that I learned to MELT the nylon, and not try to muscle through it, just because you've got a press! 😁
You've got a great woman there Eric! Mine cooks for me too, but she works at a salon full time, so I end up eating the same smoked turkey sandwich, smothered in horsey sauce, for years on end, lol. She'll usually cook supper for me in the morning (she works late), and throw it in the fridge, so all I have to do is toss it in the nukeulator for a minute or 2, and supper is ready. One of the many reasons I married this one. 😉
We need to meet some time Smitty!
Hear hear, brother! I'll get out your way one of these days, for sure. Hopefully sooner rather than later. 👍
just torch them until it starts melting out the injection holes like little snakes, then push them out like butter :)
I was going to do this myself but after watching you do it I don’t want the headaches.
ALWAYS LOVE TO SEE Mrs.O MAKE GUEST APPEARANCE
We don’t get much of that rust here in California. Just a small amount from living a block form the ocean. That reminds me, I need to do the U-joints on my Chivy Tahoe. Thanks.
when the U-joint's a rockin'...come to SMA for some knockin' !
A couple weeks ago I got to do this on a truck from Texas. Guy was up in Alberta Canada visiting. Half hour start to finish on one side. No rust anywhere, the bearing just slid out of the knuckle when the 4 bolts were loose. took under 10 mins to do the ujoint, a couple taps and all the cups were out. Was an '06 ram 3500 with almost 300 000 miles too. The bearings and ujoints were original. And normally when all goes well on trucks around here it can still be like a 2-3hr job on one side.
Great video as all ways , I use the Cutting Torch to get them U-joints out , Makes life a whole lot easier .
Just wanted to say thanks for the tips in this video, it really helped me out alot today and great videos. Much appreciated
It's not just all about the tools and brake cleaner, knowledge and experience is the key to success.
Came back here to watch big nasty beat on rust. Always fun to watch
Just tried the trick you linked to at the end of your video...Works like a charm! Much easier!
Mrs.O should have her own recipe book! That looks delightful
SMA Spray of the Day!
Eric you should give Ammex GloveWorks a shot. They are much stronger than latex. If you happen to search for the gloves they are orange in color with little dimples on the hands for better grip. I switched last year. Best thing I’ve done in a while.
Eric, you said "it helps if you make grunting noises". I think you need to be careful with that technique. I tried that just recently and got something called a Bilateral Hernia. I don't think I'll use that technique anymore.
Always great vids! Keep up the great work. Thank You.
Another Eric O. Video keeping us in suspense stay tuned for part 2,Baaaaaahhhhhhhh. Just kidding GREAT video Mr.O until next time PEACE.
I don’t know how people afford vehicles in NY. I purchased a 2005 4x4 V10 Excursion 3 years ago with 180k miles. I put in a new HD transmission and did a head gasket change 2 years ago. She is running like a champ and I plan on riding her for another 15-20 years. I’ll just do the maintenance as needed. I guess living in SW Washington State where it rains 9 mo per year but we never put salt on the road has its advantages. I also have a 1986 F350 with the 460 and while she needs new exhaust manifold gaskets, the bones are in great shape.
You should mention the proper location for the grease fitting on the u-joint. You got it in the right place, angled to the opening between the ears of the drive shaft.
You also clocked it correctly so that part of the u-joint cross will close under drive forces. The hole for the grease fitting makes that area slightly weaker between those two cross arms. If it is under tension, where driving forces will spread the cross arms, then it is more likely to break. Under compression it is less likely to break.
Good job. I'm soooooo glad to not live in the rusty part of the country any more.
Fantastic part 1,now for part 2 Fantastic finish... thxs Eric.
I did a U joint last weekend. Interesting to see the beefy hardware in bigger trucks.
Just did my passenger's side u-joint. Not too bad to do. This video definitely helped with confidence in doing the work! Ended up putting a Moog grease fitting joint in it. Will probably do the driver's side before that one goes too!
Thank you! This video was very helpful guiding me through the hub replacement process on my truck!
Another great video from Eric O...must say Mrs O looks amazing as always...u lucky man eric......P.S. going to miss W.U.W tomorrow nite....
Your drying tool made it to AVE channel which I saw and then came here and gained you a sub! Circle of life my friend
i’m glad I caught this video I have the vacuum set up on my truck. will definitely make sure she’s in four-wheel-drive before I get started on the front end.👍 I guess I’m a little old-school/impatient i would’ve chucked the Electric impact after about 30 seconds and grabbed the air impact😜
A U-Joint press block helps a ton as well. And keeps you from bending the stub shaft ears.
Your explainations during your repair vids are very helpful , Thanks for not being a ranting raving lunatic , keep up the great work and the great vids , wish every mech , had your work ethics , no wonder I'm doing 95 % my own repairs kneeing on piece of ole carpet or cardboard in my driveway . Mechs in my neck the woods are crooks and take too many short cuts .
I’ve learned a lot on UA-cam, you’ve just showed me some things should be left to the pros...you guys have all the toys ...”Big Nasty” lol
Over the pond,I’m pleased our stuff does not rust as quick,
Love doing these, easy money. I usually beat them out and press them in with a ball joint press..
It amazes me the difference in repairs between the northeast and the south, you talk about doing all this work at 44k like it’s just common place, here in Georgia we don’t start doing repairs like this on these trucks til like 175k-200k or say 10-15 years old
Thanks for taking the time to make a good video and showing the whole process. You're awesome.
Suspension and front end work: good for upper body strength. Salad for lunch helps also.
I must say Mr O, your hat has about had it, btw the rotor safety washers are for the assembly line so that the rotors don’t fall off and hit someone wile on the assembly line
I love watching your videos!
Very educational for me.
Sheesh Eric is that truck at the limit of your lift? It never stopped wobbling up and down! Great video and thanks for sharing!
I can't believe your hubs and u-joints are gone at 44K!
My 06 2500 has 250,000 miles on the original hub/wheel bearings and it's only on it's second set of u-joints. That's insane.
I have an 03 with 135000, my u joints are shot, but I’m letting them go a while yet until this summer when I’m doing ball joints. Far as I know its the originals yet.
how the heck did you learn all this stuff,it's mind boggling to me,how you know every little detail on a thousand different jobs,kudos to you mr o,an apprentice mechanic would be lucky to work for you in learning the trade.
The bend on that breaker bar pulling the caliper made me wonder if the bar bent before the bolt snapped. Excellent video.
good vid - had to do my 2007 last year (2018) and although in Canada i live far enough North that we don't bother with salt for a lot of the winter since it is not effective below minus 18 so not worth using it.
I used the press like you since hammering on these is not good, too easy to bend stuff, doing the U-joints,
Wheel bearings, and every U-joint in the whole truck had to be done over a period of a couple years, it is just part of the pleasure of owning a 2500 i guess.
I did the socket and short extension trick for the wheel bearing removal and it worked pretty well.
Great video - thanks.
Is that a piston ring from the frickin' Titanic?? lol
I had the exact same thought when he said that was a piston ring lol
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My truck lost the passenger side wheel bearings on the Nevada/Utah line and i live in Elmore, Ohio on Lake Erie while on a wheeling trip. 2012 Ram 2500 6.7 Long Horn Laramie 4x4 with 148k. That cost me nearly 3k!!! It was a Sunday and i was hauling my Jeep to Northern California to The Rubicon Trail so i needed to have my trailer towed to their shop as well and since it was a casino town, the parts was a 2 hour each way trip… that one hurt and they were fine when i left my house! Thankfully i bought my truck in Atlanta, Georgia and it stays in my heated shop… no rust!
Eric I use a cutting torch on u joints saves lot of banging and whaging grease makes a little fire.
The retaining clips over the wheel studs from my understanding are installed from factory to lessen the chances of the rotor falling off and injuring an employee during assembly of the vehicle. I guess the brake caliper and bracket are installed further down the line.They are easily removed with a pair of wire cutters or as they are referred to as "dikes". Use them on one of the detent flanges and yank it off. Hope this saves you some time. Keep up the great work.
After watching that u-joint come apart in the press, now I remember why I don't do work on anybody else's rigs, just mine.
I live and work in upstate NY (Albany, Schenectady, Troy area). Half the roads I travel on are dirt up here. The dirt roads never give-up the salts and when it rains that dirt sticks to everything under the truck..bringing with it the salts and abrasives in the mud/dirt. Vehicles just don't last that long up here. It's cheaper for us to locate an unsuspecting Southern Car with some miles on it..and bring it to its certain death up here in NY than to buy new. Trucks are so expensive now too..it's just not practical to purchase a new car up here.
I don't know why more people don't do that? If I still lived there i would be driving down south, buying super clean vehicles for dirt cheap and driving them back home to use for half the cost!!
I tell my customers that ALL THE TIME! Yet the all go down the street and get that shiny new one and in 10 years in the scrap heap!
Eric you need a "Tiger Tool" for u-joint removal. Works great.
JB Weld a faucet handle on the relief valve screw of your press jack. Mix up a gob (not the quickie stuff) tape in place.
what about a longer cross pin or just weld a nut to the end :0
I took a dremel with a conical stone bit. Ground down the rust and surface of the U Joint you could get to inside the yolk before pressing out. Make sense? The cap wasnt stuck on the inner part of the cap in the yolk after pressing out. Made life 10xs easier. Children didnt like the explosion noises when u joint finally gave loose from 20 ton press and hit of air hammer. Works. Sanded off rust inside yolk with fine emery cloth and lube. Filed very small chamber on yolk outside and inside. Wire brushed clean the inside of yolk so c clios didnt catch anything going in u joint.
I love these beating and banging videos.
Awesome job Mr.o please keep these videos coming
Good work and helpful tips on this job. A press does make it easier then betting on a u joint out in the driveway, this video brought back painful memories from when I did this kind of job and ended up in the hospital with a screwdriver stuck in my thumb.
Harbor Freight sells a pack of wire wheels for about seven or eight bucks it will help you clean up all the rusty parts if you stick it in a drill I was working on Class A vehicles that did International routes so I dealt with all kinds of rust and having just simple wire wheels on a drill made my job so much easier
That truck has that much rust at 44k miles? That's insane.
I’d guess you’re underestimating by 100K miles.
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@@AZBEEMR 99
Great vid. Very clear and concise.
I'm a tech in PA and I thought cars were nasty down here...no comparison. Still Dodge's usually need basically a new front end every 40k - cha ching. I envy mechanics in Florida lol
Love being florida tech
Safety glasses all of the time . 😀 Very nice video .
I tack welded a little piece of round stock about 3 inches long on the piece that you turn to take the pressure off the jack on the press, that way you do not have to keep using your handle to turn it, just clamp a pair of needle nose vice grips on it when you weld it to keep the heat from going into it and keep it cool while you weld it, good luck
why not replace the short pin with a long pin?
Do the same disassembly/assembly methods apply to a 2009 Dodge Ram 3500 4x4?
I don't know why, but i love seeing rusty metal and dust when you hit it with impact.
Holy shit look at all that rust... bought my 2012 last year from Atlanta, Georgia and drove her back up here to Elmore, Ohio and had her hot oil sprayed and it is my daily, deleted the 6.7 and got her tuned to well over a thousand pound feet and almost 700 ponies but it is immaculate underneath and it has 136k on it... underneath looks better then my wife’s 2016 Silverado 1500 Z-71 we bought brand new 3 years ago, crazy!
Rust has nothing on you. Awesome content always.
Eric, I found it easier to heat up the wheel bearing bolts first, especially since your going to replace it. I am sure you already knew that and didn't feel like pulling the torches out.
yep works pretty good too ;)
Man you hammered that disc like Rambo did a big bad wolf:)
I did the same job on a similar truck. I used the heat and beat method to get the u joints out and ended up bending the yoke on the axle shaft😮