I installed a set of Carli ball joints on my 2006 ram 2500 back in 2013 and they are still holding tight. I do grease them at every oil change interval and check for play and so far so good 👍.
How about now are they still holding up well? I wanna buy some but don’t want too buy 900 dollar ball joints if they aren’t worth the money and do you tow a lot?
I have the Carli ball joints on my truck after going through 4 ball joints (Stock, Moogs x2, EMF). Still holding up after a year of hard driving in the poorly paved streets of NYC with negative offset wheels. I also had Carli ball joints on my 2004 for about 3 years and that lasted. Expensive? Yes, but damn worth every penny!
scratchnbell left upper was a little loose after about a year of it on. I could have had it tightened or rebuilt but at the time, the Carli ball joints for my year truck just came out. So I figured I’d just get those instead based on my positive experience with my previous truck.
@@MyTubeUser321 Well....you lumped the EMF's into the mix like they were inferior, lol, pretty sure they would have still been going strong had you tightened it, that's the design!
You are incorrect when you say the Carli's are plated or coated. They arent. Like the EMFs they are nitride'd and that is not a plating or coating. It is a process where ferrous metals have their carbon lattice changed from body centered to face centered but only 5-10 microns deep. (depending on what depth was desired) Not changing the machined dimension of the original part like platings & coatings would and keeping the original steel properties of the piece yet providing a VERY hard surface. The EMFs appear to have gone thru a QPQ type process with polishing done between quenches. The Carli appears to to only have a one-process nitride treatment and if so would not have the same lubricity, corrosion resistance and possible surface hardness as the EMF. A simple line of tests with a Knoop and/or Vickers fixture would quantify that easily enough though. But neither the EMF or the Carli are plated/coated.
Very good and very detailed video. I am about to tackle this project in a truck I just bought. The rod ends are all sloppy and the truck wanders a LOT. I figure I might as well order ball joints and do them and get it all up to snuff so I only have to get the front end aligned once.
I was looking into getting the synergy ball joints anyone running those and what do you think about them. I have all the steering components that are synergy and have had zero problems and i really like them. Jyst curious how their ball joints are.
So I purchased a pair and was told they were too small for my 2009 ram 3500 . I have been stuck with moog parts even when I take it to a shop to get em installed nobody will install em. Got the sway bar track bar and shocks and could be nice to find out why I was told they won’t work. Third shop and 5 th pair of uppers and lowers. Any suggestions or recommendations on a reputable shop with experience installing these? Feel took in so many ways 10,000 in work and still can’t get all the parts installed. Frustrated pay 5,000 in three years for a ball joint problem that can’t be fixed. Now my synergy steering won’t bolt up to the steering stabilizer. 1,500 for moogs installed again because supposedly carli was too small for the joint.. I use my vehicle to take my dad to appointments from Montana to Washington. Them roads ain’t fun in a truck that rides like a bale wagon. I need some help in a big way. Wish people who pushed products would drop some info on where to get all this shit properly installed.
We're happy to help. All you have to do is call or email us and we'll recommend an installer in your area! There's no reason to say the joints are too small.
Do these Carli lifetime units offer any driver side top of knuckle 1 degree offset? I’ve had to run a Moog 1 degree offset upper driver ball joint to correct a tracking/pulling issue on a 2018 AEV PXL…just wondering if this issue will return with these Carli units & with proper alignment?
No there should never really be a reason to run offset joints unless your axle is bent. If your truck was pulling, that should be adjusted via the caster cams or steering stabilizers.
@@BiggusDickus2 except that I've owned the truck for 7 years/100k miles and haven't had a ball joint fail. I guess there's always a sucker willing to pay that though. I don't know what you're doing wrong if you replace them every year😂
Neither. All components of the EMF joints are nitrided steel and that process creates a VERY hard and slippery surface. (not to mention incredible corrosion resistance) They machine the internal pin and race-cups to allow just enough room for grease. And if there ever was any wear to occur (ie due to misaligned upper king-pin balljoint) you can easily just replace the inside parts with new, yet leave the outside housing pressed into the axle.
$800 for Carli or Dynatrac, sorry but that's crazy mark up for the manufacturer..there's also XRF and Mevotech TTX that are stout and way cheaper. With all the costs that come with these trucks not all of us are made of money or jumping our trucks. My stocks on a 2016 lasted 160k and were still good when removed.
Believe it or not, there actually isn’t a huge margin or mark up with the Carli joints. Most of that cost is due to the manufacturing process and tolerance specs of those joints. There’s an old saying about getting what you pay for.
@@theclamhammer4447 are mevotech ball joints really that shitty? I need new ball joints for my 08 3500 rwd but I really can’t afford to spend $500-800 so I was considering mevotech from rock auto or original mopar ball joints? What are some other good options?
@@abmtz8537 I bought a set of Mevotechs from a local NAPA. They lasted 4 months and 5k miles. NAPA took them back, tested tolerances, issued a refund and then paid me half booktime labor. I’m not a “you get what you pay for” type parts snob. A lot of times cheaper doesn’t always mean less quality but I tell anyone who will listen.... when it comes to RAM ball joints, please learn from my mistake. Buy Carlis the first times and be done with it! Even if you have to save up and buy them later. The Carli isnt a factory copy that’s made with better materials. They are a completely different design! And made with better materials. They are no doubt high but well worth not having to do the job twice.
@@theclamhammer4447 thanks, I guess I’ll just save up a little more. At least for the emf ball joints. I’m planning on getting into the hotshot business so I definitely can’t go too cheap on parts. Btw I also considered moogs, but I heard they’re trash.
@@CJCOffRoad I need lower ball joints for a 2008 Ram 3500 2wd too. What do you guys recommend? I thought my best bet would be to just go oem but apparently mopar discontinued their ball joints for ifs Ram trucks! I’ve been looking at moogs and other auto parts store brands but they only come in knurled, and I definitely don’t want to go that route if eventually I’ll have to change them out again in the near future.
Honestly they're really more hype than anything else sadly. We looked into carrying them, but we're pretty picky about the stuff we offer and didn't feel like the quality was up to par.
The American Iron ball Joint delete is actually a pretty similar design to the Dynatrac joint with a bearing. At the end of the day, it's a catchy name for a similar ball joint product since it's still accomplishing the same goal.
The problem with the Carli joints is that the o-ring seal on the uppers only last several thousand miles, if that. It kept busting and wouldn't hold grease, and this with just normal daily driving. I don't know how others are getting so many miles out of them (materials are top notch, just doesn't hold grease and have to replace o ring frequently). Going with dynatrac now, hopefully they work
@@CJCOffRoad there is just one o ring, at the bottom of the housing that seals to the tapered pin. It is the only thing keeping grease in the ball joint that I can see. They must wear out even as the pin rotates, so people by now have surely had to replace them. I just don't know why mine would wear out so extremely fast
Anything from Moog, in the last 5 years, are junk. On my 3rd set and I don't abuse my truck. Front end alignment and only a level spring kit, so it's not like it's ran off road every week.
Not needed when less expensive and not very arguably better ball joints are already provide by EMF. Can be rebuilt without pressing them out. Can't do that with Carli ball joints.
Wow, never would have guessed the price points. The least expensive you said was in the $500 range...how much for the other two? Are this part of the pintop system or an optional extra?
The Dynatrac are crap. When the felt lining goes it will throw your whole hub assembly off. They only last about 4 years......I have a Spynetec hub kit on my Dodge. Replaced with Carli have never had a problem Sense... Don't wast your money purchase Carli's
Looking for ball joints? Check out all our options here: Get yours here: www.cjcoffroad.com/Dodge-Ram-2500-3500-4x4-Ball-Joints-s/828.htm
I wished Toyota make balljoint for RAM, not just AISIN transmission. just like Cummins make engines for it.
I installed a set of Carli ball joints on my 2006 ram 2500 back in 2013 and they are still holding tight. I do grease them at every oil change interval and check for play and so far so good 👍.
How about now are they still holding up well? I wanna buy some but don’t want too buy 900 dollar ball joints if they aren’t worth the money and do you tow a lot?
@@Puffdaddyjose yes they’re still good and tight. No complains ..
I have the Carli ball joints on my truck after going through 4 ball joints (Stock, Moogs x2, EMF). Still holding up after a year of hard driving in the poorly paved streets of NYC with negative offset wheels. I also had Carli ball joints on my 2004 for about 3 years and that lasted.
Expensive? Yes, but damn worth every penny!
What happened with the EMF? What where the symptoms where you not able to tighten them?
scratchnbell left upper was a little loose after about a year of it on. I could have had it tightened or rebuilt but at the time, the Carli ball joints for my year truck just came out. So I figured I’d just get those instead based on my positive experience with my previous truck.
@@MyTubeUser321 Well....you lumped the EMF's into the mix like they were inferior, lol, pretty sure they would have still been going strong had you tightened it, that's the design!
.
I've had 2 sets of Carli's fail in less than 30k. The EMFs have never failed at 200k. Still tight.
I would also give a life time warrenty for the ridículas prices they go for.
You are incorrect when you say the Carli's are plated or coated. They arent. Like the EMFs they are nitride'd and that is not a plating or coating. It is a process where ferrous metals have their carbon lattice changed from body centered to face centered but only 5-10 microns deep. (depending on what depth was desired) Not changing the machined dimension of the original part like platings & coatings would and keeping the original steel properties of the piece yet providing a VERY hard surface. The EMFs appear to have gone thru a QPQ type process with polishing done between quenches. The Carli appears to to only have a one-process nitride treatment and if so would not have the same lubricity, corrosion resistance and possible surface hardness as the EMF. A simple line of tests with a Knoop and/or Vickers fixture would quantify that easily enough though. But neither the EMF or the Carli are plated/coated.
What suspension is on the silver Ram at 2:46 in the video? Man that thing riding smooth!
That's on a Carli Dominator system!
Keep up the great work guys I’m learning a lot from your videos.
Very good and very detailed video. I am about to tackle this project in a truck I just bought. The rod ends are all sloppy and the truck wanders a LOT. I figure I might as well order ball joints and do them and get it all up to snuff so I only have to get the front end aligned once.
EMF are local to me and I've heard nothing but good about them.
Tried Carli and EMF. EMF are better for me.
@@josephperry5844 Thats because they are.
I put a set on my 05 Dodge 3500 4x4 and so far so good seam like a great ball joints !
?
I run stock wheels and tires. Over 200k miles with stock American Axle ball joints. I’ll stick with AA ball joints.
So I ordered kryptonite balls joints for my Dodge Ram 2500 2wd will they still work even though it’s a 2wd?
I was looking into getting the synergy ball joints anyone running those and what do you think about them. I have all the steering components that are synergy and have had zero problems and i really like them. Jyst curious how their ball joints are.
Not a lot of reviews on the synergy ball joints, they look like a good choice though.
So I purchased a pair and was told they were too small for my 2009 ram 3500 . I have been stuck with moog parts even when I take it to a shop to get em installed nobody will install em. Got the sway bar track bar and shocks and could be nice to find out why I was told they won’t work. Third shop and 5 th pair of uppers and lowers. Any suggestions or recommendations on a reputable shop with experience installing these? Feel took in so many ways 10,000 in work and still can’t get all the parts installed. Frustrated pay 5,000 in three years for a ball joint problem that can’t be fixed. Now my synergy steering won’t bolt up to the steering stabilizer. 1,500 for moogs installed again because supposedly carli was too small for the joint.. I use my vehicle to take my dad to appointments from Montana to Washington. Them roads ain’t fun in a truck that rides like a bale wagon. I need some help in a big way. Wish people who pushed products would drop some info on where to get all this shit properly installed.
We're happy to help. All you have to do is call or email us and we'll recommend an installer in your area! There's no reason to say the joints are too small.
Do these Carli lifetime units offer any driver side top of knuckle 1 degree offset?
I’ve had to run a Moog 1 degree offset upper driver ball joint to correct a tracking/pulling issue on a 2018 AEV PXL…just wondering if this issue will return with these Carli units & with proper alignment?
No there should never really be a reason to run offset joints unless your axle is bent. If your truck was pulling, that should be adjusted via the caster cams or steering stabilizers.
$800+ or Moog for $25? I'll take my chances of having to replace in a couple years...
Have fun tearing your front axle apart every year 👍
@@BiggusDickus2 except that I've owned the truck for 7 years/100k miles and haven't had a ball joint fail. I guess there's always a sucker willing to pay that though. I don't know what you're doing wrong if you replace them every year😂
Have you heard of the American iron ball joint delete? They are very durable
They're actually VERY similar to the bearing style Dynatrac ball joint.
You never mentioned if they were bronzor plastic bushings
I see synergy also on your site, how do you feel those fit in the order with these?
We prefer these three option!
Do you guys offer anything for 2wd/rwd 06 2500 mega cab
Sadly no.
Most informative video on ball joints. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
what should i get for my 2000 dodge ram 2500
I'm in the same boat with my 97 12 valve.
EMF
What is inside the EMF ball joint? polymer or sintered metal?
Neither. All components of the EMF joints are nitrided steel and that process creates a VERY hard and slippery surface. (not to mention incredible corrosion resistance) They machine the internal pin and race-cups to allow just enough room for grease. And if there ever was any wear to occur (ie due to misaligned upper king-pin balljoint) you can easily just replace the inside parts with new, yet leave the outside housing pressed into the axle.
$800 for Carli or Dynatrac, sorry but that's crazy mark up for the manufacturer..there's also XRF and Mevotech TTX that are stout and way cheaper.
With all the costs that come with these trucks not all of us are made of money or jumping our trucks.
My stocks on a 2016 lasted 160k and were still good when removed.
Believe it or not, there actually isn’t a huge margin or mark up with the Carli joints. Most of that cost is due to the manufacturing process and tolerance specs of those joints. There’s an old saying about getting what you pay for.
Mevotech 🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂
@@theclamhammer4447 are mevotech ball joints really that shitty? I need new ball joints for my 08 3500 rwd but I really can’t afford to spend $500-800 so I was considering mevotech from rock auto or original mopar ball joints? What are some other good options?
@@abmtz8537 I bought a set of Mevotechs from a local NAPA. They lasted 4 months and 5k miles. NAPA took them back, tested tolerances, issued a refund and then paid me half booktime labor. I’m not a “you get what you pay for” type parts snob. A lot of times cheaper doesn’t always mean less quality but I tell anyone who will listen.... when it comes to RAM ball joints, please learn from my mistake. Buy Carlis the first times and be done with it! Even if you have to save up and buy them later. The Carli isnt a factory copy that’s made with better materials. They are a completely different design! And made with better materials. They are no doubt high but well worth not having to do the job twice.
@@theclamhammer4447 thanks, I guess I’ll just save up a little more. At least for the emf ball joints. I’m planning on getting into the hotshot business so I definitely can’t go too cheap on parts. Btw I also considered moogs, but I heard they’re trash.
Do they offer carli ball joints for a 2wd? I wanna buy lower ball joints if possible
They do not sadly.
@@CJCOffRoad I need lower ball joints for a 2008 Ram 3500 2wd too. What do you guys recommend? I thought my best bet would be to just go oem but apparently mopar discontinued their ball joints for ifs Ram trucks! I’ve been looking at moogs and other auto parts store brands but they only come in knurled, and I definitely don’t want to go that route if eventually I’ll have to change them out again in the near future.
What do you think about ball joint deletes? I have a 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 4×4
Honestly they're really more hype than anything else sadly. We looked into carrying them, but we're pretty picky about the stuff we offer and didn't feel like the quality was up to par.
@@CJCOffRoad I see you now carry the delete kits that you said were more hype than anything, what changed your mind about offering them?
What about synergy ball joints.
Awesome advice!!
What about ball joint illuminators
The American Iron ball Joint delete is actually a pretty similar design to the Dynatrac joint with a bearing. At the end of the day, it's a catchy name for a similar ball joint product since it's still accomplishing the same goal.
Where to i go to order the ball Joints?
Here's a link to order: www.cjcoffroad.com/collections/dodge-ram-2500-3500-ball-joints
The problem with the Carli joints is that the o-ring seal on the uppers only last several thousand miles, if that. It kept busting and wouldn't hold grease, and this with just normal daily driving. I don't know how others are getting so many miles out of them (materials are top notch, just doesn't hold grease and have to replace o ring frequently). Going with dynatrac now, hopefully they work
Can you explain more what o ring you were replacing on the upper joint?
@@CJCOffRoad there is just one o ring, at the bottom of the housing that seals to the tapered pin. It is the only thing keeping grease in the ball joint that I can see. They must wear out even as the pin rotates, so people by now have surely had to replace them. I just don't know why mine would wear out so extremely fast
It sounds to us like you were severely over greasing your joints and busting the rubber dust cap off!
@@CJCOffRoad only the provided directions were ever followed to a "T"
Please tell me if you went with the other brand and how is it holding up
Why are EMF not listed
They were the first listed
Do they work on 2WD 2500 , 2001 thanks
No sadly no 2wd parts
Anything from Moog, in the last 5 years, are junk. On my 3rd set and I don't abuse my truck. Front end alignment and only a level spring kit, so it's not like it's ran off road every week.
carli needs to make them for 2nd and 4th genssss
They make them for all 2003+ Ram trucks! As of now they have no plans for 94-02 trucks though.
Not needed when less expensive and not very arguably better ball joints are already provide by EMF. Can be rebuilt without pressing them out. Can't do that with Carli ball joints.
They doooooooooooooooooo
Gas trucks need love too
These fit gas Ram HD trucks as well!
Emf
How is the death wobble on ram?
Non-existent with stock wheels and 35" tires. ..
Wait...$500 for some ball joints? How many come in the package?
The four needed for your truck.
How much for all 3? I have a 2006 2wd 5.9 Cummins extended cab
You need four. Also you don't have an extended cab either.
@@kanehoward7050 he meant the prices for each moron
@@Ry_Guy no he didn't. He said for all 3... Quite clearly.
How about Fords?
How does Kryptonite compare to any of these?
Unfortunately the level of quality just isn't comparable to these three.
Don't forget jeeps 😂 because for some reason my xj and a damn ram 3500 dually have the same ball joint😂
Prices Dodge 3500 2018 R/D
Wow, never would have guessed the price points. The least expensive you said was in the $500 range...how much for the other two? Are this part of the pintop system or an optional extra?
These are not part of any Carli Suspension kit. They're a stand alone part.
Dynotrac are the best
if you want ball joint that cost more then your truck lol
The Dynatrac are crap. When the felt lining goes it will throw your whole hub assembly off. They only last about 4 years......I have a Spynetec hub kit on my Dodge. Replaced with Carli have never had a problem Sense...
Don't wast your money purchase Carli's
Carli is junk they gave me the runaround on the warranty I recommend the EMF
Cant hear you
3/4 and 1 ton Dodge truck are to big and heavy for off road use !
Emf is probably the shittiest ball joint on the market.
Why do you say that?