You just saved a 2 year old air conditioner from being cursed to death, the guy who said 15 minutes of boring is not to grateful for people that take the time to show someone who doesn’t know electricity. I am so thankful and cool now God Bless you for making this video.🎉😅😅
All jokes aside…… I’m not going to complain about the long talk about the quick fix because….. it worked. My plug has a 2 prong safety screw that I did not have on hand. So I loosened all other screws and blasted it with a hair dryer and let it just sit over night. Next morning, we had a running GE window air unit. 4 🌟’s tyvm man.
Want to give a huge thank you. Cleaned my AC unit with a hose and afterward it wasn't working. Found your video and that fixed my problem. Thanks again!
I’m so glad I watch your video. I took mine apart and then put it back together and it wasn’t working and I noticed in your video I was missing the spring😂 Thank you sir.❤
Thanks! Worked for me!!! Took my AC out cleaned it and it would not turn back on then after this video and doing as you did it works perfectly! Must of got moisture in it cleaning it. Who would have known!!! Thanks…
On an air conditioner this is an LCDI (Leakage Current Detector Interrupter) and it's purpose is to detect any leakage current between the conductors inside the power, which would occur from a damaged or frayed cord and is was required in the early 2000s for portable air conditioners. A very similar looking plug is an Appliance Leakage Circuit Interrupter required on hair dryers since 1991 and works very much like a GFCI. To sum it up LCDI plugs address fire hazards, while ALCI plugs address shock hazards much like GFCI and AFCI protection required in all new homes.
Why can’t I just change it To a regular 3 prong plug and accept the minimal fire hazard. Not sure how much fire could be created. My plug is outside hanging against a brock wall (I have to lower it from outside) I kept it wrapped in plastic but unfortunately it came off one day and the button is ‘soft’ and won’t reset. It used to reset no problem many times before after a random brief power outage.
@@mr8966 you most certainly can change the LCDI plug it came with to a regular plug that matches eg. 120 or 240v, 15 or 20 amp depending on the size of the unit. It's just an NEC and a UL requirement that the air conditioner have an LCDI or AFCI plug or device on the cord within 12 inches of the plug, since around 2002, before they are sold to the consumer. Having said that, by installing a regular plug which I personally wouldn't have an issue with, pretty much voids the UL listing on the air conditioner and could cause issues with your homeowners insurance in case of an incident involving the unit. In case you're wondering, an LCDI plug is factory installed as a cord and plug assembly only, and consists of a fine wire mesh around the conductors inside the cord for it's entire length, and trips with leakage current is detected between any conductor and the mesh, which would happen in case of a worn or damaged cord. As long as you inspect the cord before bringing the unit out for summer and replace it if necessary - repairs with electrical tape are not acceptable - you won't have any issues.
7:07 On the GE type plug (that you mentioned you could never get working again after you took them apart), the trick is to pull back on the reset button's spring before putting that "reset" slider (that moves the 2 contacts) back in. The default position for those 2 contacts should be closed (connected/making contact) and that spring needs to be pulled back behind the stand-offs so it can push against them to hold the contacts closed. When a fault is detected, that little solenoid in there pops up, hits a little brass button on the reset slider, releases the reset slider, and disconnects the contacts. Pressing the reset button resets that little brass button and allows the slider to move back to its original position (where the contacts are closed/making contact). I wish I could describe it better in a comment, but you'll see what I mean once you open it up. I hope it helps somebody.
My sunbeam A/C was tripping when it was completely off, the plug got wet and corroded inside I had a old AC unit that still had a good cord and I was able to swap it out and it worked awesome🤩. Awesome video thanks to you. My air conditioner is working again.
The 2nd plug you were talking about thats the one I have and was having the same problem. So I took all screws out except 1 and opened it just enough for air to get through I took the blow dryer to it put the screws back in and it worked.
7:07 For anybody who has already taken apart one of the GE type "Tower Mfg." plugs (that he mentioned he could never get working again after he took them apart), the trick is to pull back on the reset button's spring before putting that "reset" slider (that moves the 2 contacts) back in. The default position for those 2 contacts should be closed (connected/making contact) and that spring needs to be pulled back behind the stand-offs so it can push against them to hold the contacts closed. When a fault is detected, that little solenoid in there pops up, hits a little brass button on the reset slider, releases the reset slider, and disconnects the contacts. Pressing the reset button resets that little brass button and allows the slider to move back to its original position (where the contacts are closed/making contact). I wish I could describe it better in a comment, but you'll see what I mean once you open it up. I hope it helps somebody. Or just do what @myfireburns22 said and don't take it apart all the way, and dry it out that way. But if you're like me, and you were well beyond the point of no return by the time you looked up this video, that's what got mine working again.
My AC has that second larger plug. As soon as it cracked open water came out. Took a bit to get it dry. Works when put back together....as long as I don't tighten the screws down all the way LOL.
I had a portable room AC that the breaker plug kept tripping, then finally stopped working. I just cut it off and replaced it with standard 3 prong 15 amp plug. Problem solved, unit ran for another 5 years until the plastic blower fan broke.
Mann your a life saver i took my unit apart cause condenser fan broke then me having it apart i washed it i noticed i lot of build up put it back together let it dry for about 3hr whent to connect dirent work at ll had power at cord but would not power up and today i connected and it ppwer up but it kept tripping with in second
I can’t get the screws off. I’ve got it in front of the heater. I think I’m going to have to learn how to replace the cord. Thank you though, it happened once before and in 2 days worked again, I never knew what was causing it until seeing your video.
I hate when those get full of water. It seems like they get full of water very easy, but don't ever dry out no matter how long they sit in a hot dry area. I don't really ever sell units, and most of my units that I collect are pre-2000, so they don't have this type plug on them. I only have a few that have/had this type of plug. If they start acting up, I generally just chop them off and put on a 90 degree angle grounded plug and call it good.
I had this issue yesterday morning my plug had got wet from the ac leaking water and it had ran inside of the plug I didn't have that type of screw driver but luckily I got it fixed without it and I used my blow dyer kept it on it for ten minutes then in a couple hours it was back working
If those things burn out, I usually just put a normal grounding plug on it. It doesn't protect against an over amperage situation. It's just a GFCI in a plug. A fuse holder would serve better. It's really there to protect the manufacturer's butt in case it electrocutes you or something. The air conditioner is fully encased in grounded metal, so I don't know what you're sticking your fingers in to get shocked. Even if you replace it with an after market plug and the air conditioner burns down your home, they'll be like, "you modified it, so it's you're fault." You can always just plug it into a GFCI outlet if you want. It's pretty much code now, so I don't know why you need it in the plug. They can always just tell you to plug it into to a GFCI outlet, and they probably already do. The NEC is also forcing AFCI outlets which trip if you look at them wrong. They don't actually work. AFCI is just snake oil in my opinion.
you are absolutely correct about everything you said there. I don't see the purpose of the GFCI plugs either, as long as it is properly grounded, you aren't going to shock yourself unless you open it up and touch something internal, which at that point you have modified the machine, so you can't blame that on the manufacturer. same goes for if it is not properly grounded for whatever reason. You are running it under improper conditions, which is warned against as well, so you can't blame that on them either way. most of the units I have are before they started doing this, but if those plugs start giving me issues, I just chop them off and replace them with a standard 90 degree angle grounded plug and have never been shocked or had an issue. Only time I have ever been shocked by an air conditioner was at my friends house, I had just cleaned the unit and was not patient before trying to use it. It was still a bit wet and I her wiring was old and I guess it was not grounded, so I got a bit of a shock. Once again, I could not blame that on the company that made the unit (even if it was not a 30 year old unit) because I took it apart, and the wiring should not have been running an AC unit. I also hate AFCI circuits. luckily my house is old, so it doesn't have them (I actually have non-trip breakers, but that is besides the point). I have been in newer houses and what you say about looking at them wrong is absolutely correct. I don't know how people are not tripping breakers daily.
These things fall into the fact the NEC wants like 4 levels of protection for anything that can cause bodily harm. So yes if every receptacle in the world was properly grounded then these might not be needed. But that is not reality. So this is just another protection layer. That said. It’s your device and your house. So if you want to use a different design then great.
You couldn't be more wrong. Those are not GFCI plugs. They are, in fact, LCDI cords (which require a LCDI plug because the cord and plug are all one functioning unit and must be replaced as an entire assembly) GFCIs and LCDIs are two very different things and serve two very different purposes. And, for good reason, many people have died at the hands of AC cords before LCDIs were mandated. That's definitely one mandate that was written in blood. You need to do your research before misleading others by not having a clue about what you're talking about.
@@johnny0454 The cord is actually the dangerous bit? That's nice. I don't subscribe to the expensive equipment cartels trying to charge me large amounts of money just to protect a cord. I don't see how DO IT AT YOUR OWN RISK is misleading others. Maybe, you'd like to go back to the time when houses were wired with undersized, bare wires running along ceilings. Fun times. What people should take in is that electricity has been, electricity still is, and electricity will always be DANGEROUS! All these extra fancy devices beyond a certain point of realistic probabilities begin to reintroduce the danger in a very real way. "I'm protected, so I'll take a bath with my toaster!" Just hope you GFCI hasn't jammed up or something. To put it in another way, don't be stupid.
I had this problem but the water in the plug was actually weeping through the cord from inside the unit. I sealed the wire inside the unit and never had this problem again.
I just thought it was broken so I brought it inside and tried it once a day then gave up. It’s been months now so I’m sure it’s bone dry. And why does it have two kinds of trips? ie: one trip that doesn’t affect the buttons and one loke in your video that does. How does just drying it out make the push button work again? I would have a few teips a month from brief electrical outages and it never affcted the button. Now the button has no pressure under it, it just doesn’t work. I have a Noma. Also, interesting you said just put a regular plug on. I almost prefer that. What is the reason for the tripping plug - wouldn’t attaching a regular 3 prong cord to the unit then plugging it into a power bar with a trip/reset button function the same?
Not gfci.. is LCDI.. leakage current detection interruptor.. not a ground fault circuit interruptor (gfci). Or an afci arc fault circuit interrupter.. .. fyi.. for your information..
I'm trying to find why mine keeps on tripping. I see no visible damage to any part of it so I can't figure out why it keeps tripping. The cord, the prongs everything is cool to the touch.
Pretty sure it's a GFI. My ground lin got bet and broken loose and that's what I'm here for now trying to fix it before cutting it off and eliminating the ground fault protection. At least in the AC I have it's a GFI which trips every time I plug it in with no ground prong to go into the outlet. Gfi works like a champ. Mine has no display either just a trip and reset like any other GFI.
I. Thinking I can cut the end a little, end it, drill a small hole, and screw it back into the plug like it's an implanted tooth, if I don't have the bit to disassemble it and check further. I'd just throw a regular aftermarket plug in it but I actually scooped the AC up just to clean and sell, and would prefer the GFI be intact.
Hello I have a plug that the hot side is sliding after heat damage caused by the previous owner leaving it plugged into an extension cord always. Have you ever fixed the position of one of these?
A lot of times they'll have shielded wires most of the time the shielded wires will go to a bleeder resistor which will bleed the electric out whenever the AC units off..
I got a question when i opened mine we all see the three wires green black and white I noticed one more black wire one smaller and it has two ends ones connected the other is not is it supposed to be like that?
Did you figure out the situation? I have that same problem.. I realized the Lcdi is not the same as gfci. I don’t want a fire to happen if I connect a gfci instead of a lcdi . I don’t even know if it will work
I have an older one. Technology Research Company model # 37190. Do your know any other name for it. I live in Louisiana summer is here hot and humid. I can't afford a new one in 914.00 a month so I need a power cord 20 amp 220v. Any suggestions would help.
I don't know that one. You could probably install a new generic plug from a hardware store on the end of the cord or replace the cord if it's damaged. This is only for water in the plug, if it wasn't exposed to water, it's probably a fault in the air conditioner to make it trip.
You can usually order the exact cord, ready to go from an appliance parts site, but they're expensive. You could use a generic heavy gauge cord with a regular plug, but you might have to crimp new connectors on it.
Im trying to trouble shoot my A/C right now. Mine has the Tower Mfg Corp plug. It eas running then it tripped and shut off. I did the test reset thing, and its showing there is power, but it wont turn on and there is no backlight. Anyone know what it could be?
In people‘s homes, how does water get in? Is the socket directly below the AC unit? If this, good idea to have socket relocated away up on nearby wall. Are people using with outlet running to an outlet not inside?
Thats not a gfci.. its a Lfci.. it detects leakage current within the cable.. is used to detect faults on the cabling.. they arent gfci’s though and are basically worthless with no protection to people.. is more for the ac unit.. and those lfci plugs are only really ever on ac units.. youll know if its an lfci when you take it apart, if the hot and neutral wires have shielding wires and those are connected to the curcuit board inside the plug then its an lfci.. gfci’s don’t have any coils in them also.. the red thing.. also youll notice the plugs don’t say gfci on them anywhere.. only lfci.. lol. If swapped it out for a gfci plug it would provide more protection except the amperage ac units draw will usually trip a gfci with that inrush and motor starting/ compressor….
You can usually order the exact cord from an appliance parts website. They're very expensive though. You can wire a regular 3 prong cord also for much less. Make sure you don't have an electrical fault first, the cord shouldn't melt if it's working properly.
My ac runs for like 3 hrs and then it clicks from the plug could this be the solution. I click reset on the plug and works and 3 hrs later I repeat the process can someone help
Guys, let me save you 15 minutes of boring. 10,000 views, 91 likes... that should tell us something. This whole video is based on your AC being outside, getting water in the plug mechanism, and drying it out. Cloth or hair dryer dries it out.
Ya but my plug got wet and something tripped. We even had it inside for two weeks and plugged it in once a day so amy water woild be gone. How to fix that. I won’t bore you with why but for me the only way to power the unit is to rum thw plug outsode. I kept the plug wrapped in plaati c and that worked for years but someome took it off and it got rained on. I’ve had Noma units for years. Last one lasted 10 years so this one is only two years old.
![[LG Portable ACs] Power Issues](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wh2k8hD5H1M/mqdefault.jpg)
You just saved a 2 year old air conditioner from being cursed to death, the guy who said 15 minutes of boring is not to grateful for people that take the time to show someone who doesn’t know electricity. I am so thankful and cool now God Bless you for making this video.🎉😅😅
All jokes aside…… I’m not going to complain about the long talk about the quick fix because….. it worked. My plug has a 2 prong safety screw that I did not have on hand. So I loosened all other screws and blasted it with a hair dryer and let it just sit over night. Next morning, we had a running GE window air unit. 4 🌟’s tyvm man.
Want to give a huge thank you. Cleaned my AC unit with a hose and afterward it wasn't working. Found your video and that fixed my problem. Thanks again!
I’m so glad I watch your video. I took mine apart and then put it back together and it wasn’t working and I noticed in your video I was missing the spring😂 Thank you sir.❤
Just wanted to say thank you. I was about to get rid of my air conditioner than I found your video, tried your fix and it worked. Thank you
Same here! Thanks!
Thanks! Worked for me!!! Took my AC out cleaned it and it would not turn back on then after this video and doing as you did it works perfectly! Must of got moisture in it cleaning it. Who would have known!!! Thanks…
Thanks alot man! We didnt know what was tripping my moms AC and she was about to get a new one, you saved us alot, this was the fix! Thank you sir!
Thank God He made you for this reason...thank you so much for your content! You are such a GENIUS! It worked!! God bless you man!
On an air conditioner this is an LCDI (Leakage Current Detector Interrupter) and it's purpose is to detect any leakage current between the conductors inside the power, which would occur from a damaged or frayed cord and is was required in the early 2000s for portable air conditioners. A very similar looking plug is an Appliance Leakage Circuit Interrupter required on hair dryers since 1991 and works very much like a GFCI. To sum it up LCDI plugs address fire hazards, while ALCI plugs address shock hazards much like GFCI and AFCI protection required in all new homes.
Thanks
Why can’t I just change it
To a regular 3 prong plug and accept the minimal fire hazard. Not sure how much fire could be created. My plug is outside hanging against a brock wall (I have to lower it from outside) I kept it wrapped in plastic but unfortunately it came off one day and the button is ‘soft’ and won’t reset. It used to reset no problem many times before after a random brief power outage.
@@mr8966 you most certainly can change the LCDI plug it came with to a regular plug that matches eg. 120 or 240v, 15 or 20 amp depending on the size of the unit.
It's just an NEC and a UL requirement that the air conditioner have an LCDI or AFCI plug or device on the cord within 12 inches of the plug, since around 2002, before they are sold to the consumer. Having said that, by installing a regular plug which I personally wouldn't have an issue with, pretty much voids the UL listing on the air conditioner and could cause issues with your homeowners insurance in case of an incident involving the unit.
In case you're wondering, an LCDI plug is factory installed as a cord and plug assembly only, and consists of a fine wire mesh around the conductors inside the cord for it's entire length, and trips with leakage current is detected between any conductor and the mesh, which would happen in case of a worn or damaged cord. As long as you inspect the cord before bringing the unit out for summer and replace it if necessary - repairs with electrical tape are not acceptable - you won't have any issues.
I year later and this worked for me! Thank You! I used the hair dryer where the reset button is and didn't take it apart. Been going all day!
7:07 On the GE type plug (that you mentioned you could never get working again after you took them apart), the trick is to pull back on the reset button's spring before putting that "reset" slider (that moves the 2 contacts) back in. The default position for those 2 contacts should be closed (connected/making contact) and that spring needs to be pulled back behind the stand-offs so it can push against them to hold the contacts closed.
When a fault is detected, that little solenoid in there pops up, hits a little brass button on the reset slider, releases the reset slider, and disconnects the contacts. Pressing the reset button resets that little brass button and allows the slider to move back to its original position (where the contacts are closed/making contact).
I wish I could describe it better in a comment, but you'll see what I mean once you open it up. I hope it helps somebody.
THANK YOU so much for this video, I could not for the life of me figure out the issue and I had already returned an ac unit once!
Thank you man it worked for me after cleaning my grandma window unit … check everything and it was okay then saw your video try and turned right on 🙏🏼
My sunbeam A/C was tripping when it was completely off, the plug got wet and corroded inside I had a old AC unit that still had a good cord and I was able to swap it out and it worked awesome🤩.
Awesome video thanks to you. My air conditioner is working again.
I had the second one that you had in your hand the GE brand one and that thing was toasted…
Dude you are a freakin life saver! THANKS!
You saved me a lot of money and headache. I almost tossed my fairly new AC I’ve been using in my cold room. This was the issue!
I didn’t have to open mine when you said water I decided to just shake it and some came out and it started to work again thank you 😊
I GOT IT!!! Thanks bro u a real one frfr the goat!!!
Thank you soo much this helped me fix my ac!
Nice bro worked right away
The 2nd plug you were talking about thats the one I have and was having the same problem. So I took all screws out except 1 and opened it just enough for air to get through I took the blow dryer to it put the screws back in and it worked.
Thats a great idea
7:07 For anybody who has already taken apart one of the GE type "Tower Mfg." plugs (that he mentioned he could never get working again after he took them apart), the trick is to pull back on the reset button's spring before putting that "reset" slider (that moves the 2 contacts) back in. The default position for those 2 contacts should be closed (connected/making contact) and that spring needs to be pulled back behind the stand-offs so it can push against them to hold the contacts closed.
When a fault is detected, that little solenoid in there pops up, hits a little brass button on the reset slider, releases the reset slider, and disconnects the contacts. Pressing the reset button resets that little brass button and allows the slider to move back to its original position (where the contacts are closed/making contact).
I wish I could describe it better in a comment, but you'll see what I mean once you open it up. I hope it helps somebody.
Or just do what @myfireburns22 said and don't take it apart all the way, and dry it out that way.
But if you're like me, and you were well beyond the point of no return by the time you looked up this video, that's what got mine working again.
My AC has that second larger plug. As soon as it cracked open water came out. Took a bit to get it dry. Works when put back together....as long as I don't tighten the screws down all the way LOL.
You saved me! Thank you
Gracias fue de gran ayuda tu video
Thanks it worked saved me ac
I had a portable room AC that the breaker plug kept tripping, then finally stopped working. I just cut it off and replaced it with standard 3 prong 15 amp plug. Problem solved, unit ran for another 5 years until the plastic blower fan broke.
Mann your a life saver i took my unit apart cause condenser fan broke then me having it apart i washed it i noticed i lot of build up put it back together let it dry for about 3hr whent to connect dirent work at ll had power at cord but would not power up and today i connected and it ppwer up but it kept tripping with in second
Thank you I made mine work 👍
Robertson bits they are called. Shoutout Canada 🇨🇦
I can’t get the screws off. I’ve got it in front of the heater. I think I’m going to have to learn how to replace the cord. Thank you though, it happened once before and in 2 days worked again, I never knew what was causing it until seeing your video.
Do you have electrician's screwdriver like Square tip or Robertson screwdriver #2?
What size sq screw is that
I lost the tip for the screws but I sat the plug in a cup of rice for 48 hours and it worked fine.
Any idea if I switch my connector to a non-GFCI connector since the wall outlet is GFCI, do I need to keep that capacitor between the two legs?
I hate when those get full of water. It seems like they get full of water very easy, but don't ever dry out no matter how long they sit in a hot dry area. I don't really ever sell units, and most of my units that I collect are pre-2000, so they don't have this type plug on them. I only have a few that have/had this type of plug. If they start acting up, I generally just chop them off and put on a 90 degree angle grounded plug and call it good.
I'd also just put a normal 3 prong plug on it if it was something I was keeping for myself.
I had this issue yesterday morning my plug had got wet from the ac leaking water and it had ran inside of the plug I didn't have that type of screw driver but luckily I got it fixed without it and I used my blow dyer kept it on it for ten minutes then in a couple hours it was back working
If those things burn out, I usually just put a normal grounding plug on it. It doesn't protect against an over amperage situation. It's just a GFCI in a plug. A fuse holder would serve better. It's really there to protect the manufacturer's butt in case it electrocutes you or something. The air conditioner is fully encased in grounded metal, so I don't know what you're sticking your fingers in to get shocked. Even if you replace it with an after market plug and the air conditioner burns down your home, they'll be like, "you modified it, so it's you're fault." You can always just plug it into a GFCI outlet if you want. It's pretty much code now, so I don't know why you need it in the plug. They can always just tell you to plug it into to a GFCI outlet, and they probably already do. The NEC is also forcing AFCI outlets which trip if you look at them wrong. They don't actually work. AFCI is just snake oil in my opinion.
you are absolutely correct about everything you said there. I don't see the purpose of the GFCI plugs either, as long as it is properly grounded, you aren't going to shock yourself unless you open it up and touch something internal, which at that point you have modified the machine, so you can't blame that on the manufacturer. same goes for if it is not properly grounded for whatever reason. You are running it under improper conditions, which is warned against as well, so you can't blame that on them either way.
most of the units I have are before they started doing this, but if those plugs start giving me issues, I just chop them off and replace them with a standard 90 degree angle grounded plug and have never been shocked or had an issue.
Only time I have ever been shocked by an air conditioner was at my friends house, I had just cleaned the unit and was not patient before trying to use it. It was still a bit wet and I her wiring was old and I guess it was not grounded, so I got a bit of a shock. Once again, I could not blame that on the company that made the unit (even if it was not a 30 year old unit) because I took it apart, and the wiring should not have been running an AC unit.
I also hate AFCI circuits. luckily my house is old, so it doesn't have them (I actually have non-trip breakers, but that is besides the point). I have been in newer houses and what you say about looking at them wrong is absolutely correct. I don't know how people are not tripping breakers daily.
These things fall into the fact the NEC wants like 4 levels of protection for anything that can cause bodily harm. So yes if every receptacle in the world was properly grounded then these might not be needed. But that is not reality. So this is just another protection layer.
That said. It’s your device and your house. So if you want to use a different design then great.
You couldn't be more wrong. Those are not GFCI plugs. They are, in fact, LCDI cords (which require a LCDI plug because the cord and plug are all one functioning unit and must be replaced as an entire assembly) GFCIs and LCDIs are two very different things and serve two very different purposes. And, for good reason, many people have died at the hands of AC cords before LCDIs were mandated. That's definitely one mandate that was written in blood. You need to do your research before misleading others by not having a clue about what you're talking about.
@@johnny0454 The cord is actually the dangerous bit? That's nice. I don't subscribe to the expensive equipment cartels trying to charge me large amounts of money just to protect a cord. I don't see how DO IT AT YOUR OWN RISK is misleading others. Maybe, you'd like to go back to the time when houses were wired with undersized, bare wires running along ceilings. Fun times. What people should take in is that electricity has been, electricity still is, and electricity will always be DANGEROUS! All these extra fancy devices beyond a certain point of realistic probabilities begin to reintroduce the danger in a very real way. "I'm protected, so I'll take a bath with my toaster!" Just hope you GFCI hasn't jammed up or something. To put it in another way, don't be stupid.
@@johnny0454so can’t I just swap the lcdi box with a gfci? What would happen
I had this problem but the water in the plug was actually weeping through the cord from inside the unit. I sealed the wire inside the unit and never had this problem again.
I just thought it was broken so I brought it inside and tried it once a day then gave up. It’s been months now so I’m sure it’s bone dry. And why does it have two kinds of trips? ie: one trip that doesn’t affect the buttons and one loke in your video that does. How does just drying it out make the push button work again? I would have a few teips a month from brief electrical outages and it never affcted the button. Now the button has no pressure under it, it just doesn’t work. I have a Noma.
Also, interesting you said just put a regular plug on. I almost prefer that. What is the reason for the tripping plug - wouldn’t attaching a regular 3 prong cord to the unit then plugging it into a power bar with a trip/reset button function the same?
Not gfci.. is LCDI.. leakage current detection interruptor.. not a ground fault circuit interruptor (gfci). Or an afci arc fault circuit interrupter.. .. fyi.. for your information..
I'm trying to find why mine keeps on tripping. I see no visible damage to any part of it so I can't figure out why it keeps tripping. The cord, the prongs everything is cool to the touch.
This video ...Freaking worked ...Took it apart used blow dryer ....Bingo.. no more Tripping ...
Pretty sure it's a GFI. My ground lin got bet and broken loose and that's what I'm here for now trying to fix it before cutting it off and eliminating the ground fault protection. At least in the AC I have it's a GFI which trips every time I plug it in with no ground prong to go into the outlet. Gfi works like a champ. Mine has no display either just a trip and reset like any other GFI.
I. Thinking I can cut the end a little, end it, drill a small hole, and screw it back into the plug like it's an implanted tooth, if I don't have the bit to disassemble it and check further. I'd just throw a regular aftermarket plug in it but I actually scooped the AC up just to clean and sell, and would prefer the GFI be intact.
Thank you sir. Your greatly appreciated!
Hello I have a plug that the hot side is sliding after heat damage caused by the previous owner leaving it plugged into an extension cord always. Have you ever fixed the position of one of these?
Good work sorry its was toasted.
A lot of times they'll have shielded wires most of the time the shielded wires will go to a bleeder resistor which will bleed the electric out whenever the AC units off..
How do you replace the cord
What does FL mean flashing on the top?
Is there a special size square bit? I literally bought a kit with size 1-3 and non of them fit
I think it receivers an s0 size square bit.
On the second larger plug how do you get the second screw on the top off?
They usually have the square Robertson head or some have the 2 prong security bit head. I usually don't try fixing the big GE plugs.
What about submerging in 99% IPA, flip-over to drain and then apply heat with hairdryer.
Posible solution is the contacts should be cleaned until shiny bright removing all oxidation.
I got a question when i opened mine we all see the three wires green black and white I noticed one more black wire one smaller and it has two ends ones connected the other is not is it supposed to be like that?
Did you figure out the situation? I have that same problem.. I realized the Lcdi is not the same as gfci. I don’t want a fire to happen if I connect a gfci instead of a lcdi . I don’t even know if it will work
I have an older one. Technology Research Company model # 37190. Do your know any other name for it. I live in Louisiana summer is here hot and humid. I can't afford a new one in 914.00 a month so I need a power cord 20 amp 220v. Any suggestions would help.
I don't know that one. You could probably install a new generic plug from a hardware store on the end of the cord or replace the cord if it's damaged. This is only for water in the plug, if it wasn't exposed to water, it's probably a fault in the air conditioner to make it trip.
Anyone can tell me a website I can order the whole power cord or just the cord part, my dogs tore it up
You can usually order the exact cord, ready to go from an appliance parts site, but they're expensive. You could use a generic heavy gauge cord with a regular plug, but you might have to crimp new connectors on it.
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Does anyone know what to do when the plug gets wet, how to fix it please?
Im trying to trouble shoot my A/C right now. Mine has the Tower Mfg Corp plug. It eas running then it tripped and shut off. I did the test reset thing, and its showing there is power, but it wont turn on and there is no backlight. Anyone know what it could be?
In people‘s homes, how does water get in?
Is the socket directly below the AC unit? If this, good idea to have socket relocated away up on nearby wall.
Are people using with outlet running to an outlet not inside?
I'm assuming most folks, including myself, it happens when cleaning the unit probably 😅
I have to power my unit from outside. Long story. I always had it covered but the cover came off ome day
How are you guys getting water in the device from inside the house? Or are you finding them on the street?
Thats not a gfci.. its a Lfci.. it detects leakage current within the cable.. is used to detect faults on the cabling.. they arent gfci’s though and are basically worthless with no protection to people.. is more for the ac unit.. and those lfci plugs are only really ever on ac units.. youll know if its an lfci when you take it apart, if the hot and neutral wires have shielding wires and those are connected to the curcuit board inside the plug then its an lfci.. gfci’s don’t have any coils in them also.. the red thing.. also youll notice the plugs don’t say gfci on them anywhere.. only lfci.. lol. If swapped it out for a gfci plug it would provide more protection except the amperage ac units draw will usually trip a gfci with that inrush and motor starting/ compressor….
Sorry. Lcdi. Leakage current detection interruptor ….
Great info thanks. I was wondering why it looked different than I’m used to.
What about just changing it to a regular 3 prong plug and it a tripper is needed, just plug it into a power bar with a trio switch?
I have exactly the one you can't repair 😢
Please how can I get this, mine got burnt and the ac stopped working 😢😢😢
You can usually order the exact cord from an appliance parts website. They're very expensive though. You can wire a regular 3 prong cord also for much less. Make sure you don't have an electrical fault first, the cord shouldn't melt if it's working properly.
Thanks 😊
Fuck yeah. Thanks for the video.. the little black square paper thin piece fell out without me noticing. Works fine without it. What is that thing?
I'm not really sure what it's for. I would put it back in though, it must have some purpose.
Do believe that is a GFCI. comment please
Any òne else hear the plane
My ac runs for like 3 hrs and then it clicks from the plug could this be the solution. I click reset on the plug and works and 3 hrs later I repeat the process can someone help
This probably won't help. It trips constantly with water in it. I think you have a different type of electrical fault.
@@airconditionersexposed should I change the electrical plug
abcde"F" those plugs.
Guys, let me save you 15 minutes of boring. 10,000 views, 91 likes... that should tell us something. This whole video is based on your AC being outside, getting water in the plug mechanism, and drying it out. Cloth or hair dryer dries it out.
Thank you.
My AC unit is outside? peculiar
@@tedlahm5740I needed that laugh…tyvm
Ya but my plug got wet and something tripped. We even had it inside for two weeks and plugged it in once a day so amy water woild be gone. How to fix that. I won’t bore you with why but for me the only way to power the unit is to rum thw plug outsode. I kept the plug wrapped in plaati c and that worked for years but someome took it off and it got rained on. I’ve had Noma units for years. Last one lasted 10 years so this one is only two years old.
Worrthless
Pete and repeat are sitting in a boat, Pete falls out who’s left?🤦♂️
Watching this guy is like the most excruciating experience besides being crucified and hung on a cross
Square security bit? Isn't that known as a Robertson bit?
Comments were more helpful than video.