*So amazingly quiet and **Fastly.Cool** in my room! 42db is at a whisper level. I bought 2 and installed myself.Very sturdy bracket and easy to adjust to fit windows of different size. Absolutely fabulous units!!*
Just finished a job on a similar one using my newly earned degree from JW's Backwoods School of HVAC Mastery. The room is already feeling cooler. Couldn't have done it without your help. Much appreciated my man!
God Bless ya, Brother!!! Because of you, I'm one of them's that got cold air on a hot day! Thanks - from this long-haired Kentucky country boy! That was my problem - you were my solution.
Connecticut can get hot too. I must say, I copied this idea on a broken 15000btu window unit and its better than new. I used 30A automotive switches. 1 for the fan, 1 for the compressor. On hi-cool, It can ice this place. Most useful video ever made. Thanks Dan!
Mr.Dan, you are awesome!!! I've been fighting with this ac for 2 weeks! I watched your video and had it going in less than an hour! You rock! Thank you so much ☺
PawPaw you are a dead set legend! Sweltering in the heat down here in Australia because the AC crappytronics broke down, followed this and now its working, house is cool again. Thanks so much man!
There is two kinds of people in this world those who have cold air coming into a room and them who don't have shit I almost spit out my coffee that was great
The problem with mine was the ground fault plug. I checked for voltage inside the machine and was seeing 120 volts but I must have been using the chassis for the negative probe on my meter. But when checking continuity from the plug to the circuit board the common wire showed open so I replaced the plug and it's working now. Thanks for your video.
My neighbor is a scrap collector he had about 5 window units in his back yard. I've fixed 2 of them but one has a control board that is corroded bad. So I'm gonna try this the motor and compressor is usually more durable than the electronics.
Spencer from Perry la just have to say this is the best and easiest explained video that I have ever watched I have fixed 3 ac units that i changed he that were only 8months old I now one of the ones that have AC and not one of the ones ones that don't thank you coolest house. another thing I am trying to wire one with a DC motor can you help me
Thanks for the video.. My wall AC unit died because the display circuit board died. Go figure.. The one part they don't sell or replace! So now I'm sitting in a nice cool room thanks to you!
Well alright, I have .16 cents in my pay pal send me 5 bucks so I can buy me a 40 and party on. love it when a plan comes together. Pay pal button on my home page
You can also put a line voltage thermostat on the extension cord after hard wiring it and now it has a thermostat ( with cold air coming into the room)
How do you keep it from freezing? I kind of did the same thing I wired the compressor to the hot side of the cord coming in the unit to bypass the Tstat but it freezes within a 30 mins of constant running
The compressor has 3 wires C common R run and S Start make sure you have one hot wire going to Run (not start) It should be one fan speed of your choice and Run on one hot leg and the other hot leg is to Common or C on the capacitor.
JW this is one of your best vids Ever! I laughed with mouthful of beer & it come out my Damn nose... That line about 2 kinds of people is a classic Ol Boy! Hahahahaha!
When I first started to work for Mr fred a young woman came in and declared she needed her ac checked out. She was from the projects and had a sickly child. The cold control and the switch was both gone and it was clogged and dirty as hell. So I cleaned it up and put a new switch and cold control and told her how much and she said nope, she didnt have that kind of money. So i asked Mr Fred about it and he straight wired it up so that it would run till Christmas and NO Charge, That is just how he was. Always helping out the poor.
We bought a new low line GE 4000btu years ago for storm use. It only had an on & off switch with no external stat control. I had a fixed internal stat, Damn thing would cycle off the compressor before the room got cold. I jumped out the fixed stat with a HD toggle switch. It made ice cold air then... When it started blowing snow & ice I'd switch of the pot & let it defrost for a few mins. Hah!
hey pawpaw!first rule! when it's hot like this, you gotta stay hydrated! you need to chug some beers or you gonna fall face down man! think of priorities!
Nice hot wire job PawPaw, too bad you can't find a old set of manual controls from a broken air conditioner that you can plug into that unit..usually those old manual controls last forever..
D. J. Tanner If you have a cold control you can wire it to shut down the ac energy saver. I can also connect any kind of switch if I had one. used to sell appliance parts and HVAC stuff.
Central air went down due to a bad compressor. Tested ok for resistance across the terminals, but even with new relay, capacitor, and hardstart kit, still wont kick on. Then the window unit in the bedroom went out too. It was a Maytag and very similar to the one in this video. Needless to say, the bedroom is nice and cool now that i hardwired the AC to run in the cold & fast mode only. Those stupid circuit boards seem to be the weak link in modern AC units. Go figure, AC units make condensation and circuit boards tend to fry when there is too much moisture. Energy Star is about the stupidest thing ever. They are trying to save the planet by manufacturing more AC units and producing more refrigerant due to people replacing AC units that have perfectly good compressors, fans, relays and capacitors. It's a crying shame. Thanks for the informative video. You wouldn't believe it, but one 8k BTU in the back of the house and one 5k BTU in the front of the house is keeping 4 rooms & a hallway nice and cool even in 95 degree weather. Someone forgot to tell the air conditioner that it is impossible for 13000 BTU's to cool 900 square feet. I even had to turn the one in front down to low because it was getting too cold, lol.
The capacitor has 3 terminals F fan Herm hermetically sealed compressor and C common. You need one hot side to be connected to C or common. The other hot wire goes to a fan speed of your choice, I chose hi or black and the other wire is the compressor RUN wire marked R on top the compressor (the heavy blue wire that was connected to the relay that dropped a turd). Note: I taped off the small blue and red fan speed wires away from anything and probably needed to tape em above the water line also. Buy a cheap cold control (link is below) and use it to make and break the electical path: www.ebay.com/p/190982601?iid=113983921968&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=113983921968&targetid=917185845248&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9012979&poi=&campaignid=9343999179&mkgroupid=103102860388&rlsatarget=pla-917185845248&abcId=1139336&merchantid=131363241&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0YD4BRD2ARIsAHwmKVnG29fVN0FW1zr6LpJ2dk9FUhp4phRycUGT4Hl28xUwYvU22xeTUgIaAnZeEALw_wcB
Find an older window unit with a good cold control in it. The cold control can be mounted in the common wire going to the capacitor Just plug a hot leg in one side of the control and run a jumper wire from other side to the capacitor common terminal to interrupt the power when the desired room temp is reached. mount the control on a plate so it can be operated manually or just turn it up wide open and stick the mercury sensing bulb out front.
@@Longoria1966 same way get one hot leg to the c on the capacitor and connect the compressor RUN wire plus one fan speed to the other hot leg to control it you put in some sort of thermostat you can use a contactor and low voltage wall stat or even a mercury bulb thermostat off an old 240 volt unit.
@@Longoria1966 All you need on one hot wire is compressor RUN and a fan speed small black wire off the fan motor. The other hot wire goes to common marked C on the capacitor. Its just that simple. Tape off all the other wires and zip tie em out the water on the base of the unit. Add any kind of control to shut it off and on you prefer.
3 Wires from compressor C=Black Wire / S=Red Wire / R=Blue Wire goes to the 2 pin Capacitor 5 Wires From The Fan H=Black Wire / M= Blue Wire / L=Red Wire White Wire / Brown Wire -------\One for the Run And the other for the start Black 4 pin Capacitor For the fan My thermostat is lost how to connect it without a thermostat Thank's for your time for reading my message
8 years later a neighbor's window unit is sitting on the work cart with a bad control panel. I'll see if they want to do this or pay 180 dollars for a new control board, we know the answer to that one. For my place I wired up a low voltage transformer with contactor to a dedicated outlet with a thermostat on the wall.
I would drill two holes in that front electronic and then get a high/medium/low switch and a SPST switch and wire it so you can have control of the fan speed and compressor separately. But then you can just shut it off if you get cold and turn it back on when you get hot.
Advice to everyone out there, if it doesnt work AFTER a quick hotwire, throw it away. hopefully train them to give us nothing but on/ off switch. And I mean for the compressor not just the useless fan.
Man, you made my day bro! If u ain't got the best attitude then I'll kiss a dogs ass under the nearest stoplight & give ya 10 minutes to draw a crowd player....hahaah! Hey Dan-o' you and the family have a happy & safe Independence Day my friend. Much love from the ol' boy here in NC. PEACE
frigidaire air conditioner not turning on. Just cleaned it. Now it wont turn on. Waiting on it to dry. Might have to do this to mine. But i dont know a lick about fixing or bypassing ac units. Need help.
I'm working on it. Watched this video a hundred times. Starting to catch on. I hope I do before I blow it up. Ditched the control panel altogether. But that other board with the black box is causing me some grief.
Will a window ac that’s temp changes lower on its own every so many min or a few seconds later slowly or quickly as it beeps can it be bypassed ? We checked it out nothing Seens out of the ordinary. I got it once to hold at 74 but my husband not so lucky it’s a good ac bought in 2016 not our only window unit but it helps keep the living room n kitchen cool when used together . It’s a hailer blows better n cooker then the new one we just needed two. Sorry question is scattered I got a chicken in the house aggravating me. Or do we find a free if 5$?used junk knew identical n try changing out motherboards ir the Lilly hood smashed ur diff prob made it junk or sold or free
@@DanWebster yet again I tried plugged it in after hitting reset n it came on n heard a steady 75 degrees it’s the temp it likes n don’t move when I sometimes attempt it apparently don’t like my husband hoping it’s being relearning n we won’t have any further problems this summer
@@DanWebster no I was just standing I front of it after holding stead at a good temp I stood I front n vent down to vet something near it n the temp dropped a degree I walked across the room n heard another beep took my Chios to the couch another been it had droped 6 or 8 degrees in a min the time it took me to finish a few chips in dip
Love your vid. I have many LG AC's that are "Shot Out" and stacked up lick cord wood waiting for a repair similar to the one you did with a few more features .My last LG unit was 9 days past its 1 year warranty and quit. They said they would fix or replace because it was so close to the expiration date but did neither . These companies are trying to rip us off with stupid features like energy saver and dry mode. If you remove the Hi Tech circuit board and back date the unit to the 1980's with simple controls we can make these units last for 15-30 years with proper cleaning. Lets teach these POS companies that we are not going to buy BS appliances with any connection to computers/cell phones or trying to save $5.00 a month on a power bill. and all we want is a AC that cools and last as long as our parents units did. I am in the beginning stage of a "backdate " of these units . The main aspect we want to accomplish is adapting an old school thermostat and simple control for on/off . Any help would be great. I own a machine shop but am not an AC expert and any help from you or viewers would be great !
Hello can y'all help me out, So basically connect the common wire in the capacitor to one of the main power lines, then connect the high fan and which part of the compressor wire? my compressor has 3 wires, 1 common,1 starting and 1 running which of these should i connect to the other power line, thanks
RUN wire. The compressor has 3 terminals marked C for COMMON S for START and R for RUN you need the R wire (RUN) and a fan speed. I use black or high fan and tape the other speeds away from each other and the frame so they wont get shorted to anything.
Note: you already have a wire from C on the cap to C on the compressor, no need to do anything with that one, you already have a wire from HERM (herm stands for hermetically sealed compressor by the way) on the cap to start on the compressor, no need to worry with that wire; so that leaves the R wire needing power to complete the circuit. It is simple when you think about it. The fan motor likewise already has common from the cap connected and F on the cap to initialize it, so it basically needs one them speeds to complete its circuit.
You can jump any of em but they going to stay going and freeze up if the temp drops outside is all. Basically, you have a hot feed to C for common on the cap as one leg of power; then you need a fan speed and compressor run wire connected to the other leg of power. If you can get your hands on an old style thermostat off an old ac you can use that to turn it on and off
if you wanted to get fancy you could put a switch to allow the fan to run and kill the compressor. If that wasn't doing it you could flip the switch and add in the cold, purty cool don't ya thank? If you wanted to take it a step farther you could get a 120 volt 2 pole contactor and a line voltage ac stat and set the stat for 74 to kill the whole thang or just the compressor.
I ve done it on 220 acs also same thing L-2 goes to common on cap C and you need one fan speed only of your choice and compressor R for run on the L-1 heres one I hooked up: ua-cam.com/video/mhFbGhgxFXg/v-deo.html
Done this to mine yesterday and the coils froze up, any ideas on how to remedy im guessing because lack of thermostat now. lm in tn. So i relate to never getting cool enough
I have power to a 220v GE 24000 btu but nothing comes on.. not the compressor.. not the fan.. not the motherboard and there is nothing on the internet about it... it was an expensive unit and barely got used before moisture crept into the board
you can easily bypass them crappytronics and get an old school cold control to operate the temp by simply cutting current at the achieved temp. One hot leg to the common on the cappacitor and one hot leg to a fan speed and to compressor run. Somewhere in the common connection, you will place the mercury-based thermostat in series so that it will stop the flow of power at the desired temp and not freeze up the unit. Here is a 220 volt 18,000 I wired up to run without controls: ua-cam.com/video/mhFbGhgxFXg/v-deo.html
On most window ac's the wires for fan speeds is smaller and marked red for low blue is medium and black is high speed. White is common on MOST units but you can verify that by finding common on capacitor. Common will be marked C and have 4 terminals HERM (hermetically sealed unit-compressor) will have 3 terminals and Fan will have 2 terminals, so common will have a live wire, a wire for common to compressor, and a wire from fan motor (usually solid brown). A brown wire with a white stripe is the fan motor's common and is connected to the C on the capacitor. The solid brown wire is connected to F on the capacitor for the fan. A thick black or red wire from the compressor connects from the S (start) terminal on the Compressor at HERM on the capacitor. Both of them wires serve to help boost the unit on start up. So really their ain't no need to mess with the capacitor wiring, just get one hot wire to common. The fan's speeds cannot touch each other or ground out. So what I am using is High speed fan and compressor Run (marked R on the compressor) wire from compressor, & a hot wire on one side of the power cord AND a hot wire from the power cord to common C on the capacitor side. Confused yet?
if you have an older unit with a old time fan switch you can also connect that up by running a hot wire to the dummy post in the middle then your solid brown wire and you compressor wire which is usually a fat black wire or a fat red wire and then connect you fan speeds to the top line of switches black to 1 blue to 2 red to 3 and hot wire to compressor to C on the switch. Then you can actually turn the thang on and off; of course it still wouldnt shut down because it does not have a thermostat but that can be easily added as well be in connect between C on switch and the compressor. Confused yet? Another thing you could do is simply add a old time thermostat and cut the flow anywhere in the circuit to common. When it got cool the dang thang will shut down. The End.
take the batt out the remote and unplug the machine then plug it back in and see if the timer still dies the same thang and that is just a guess I aint even seen a samsung up close.
Dan Webster ok, Awesome. thanks!! yeah it only works by remote because we cleaned it last year ( obviously the wrong way) and the controls on the unit itself stopped working, so remote control it is. but was happy it worked that way😊
Come to think of it my brother in law gave me a small window unit with a remote. I straight wired it also and put it in my living room when my central unit quit.
you connect one hot leg to the C (stands for Common)on the capacitor and then hook the fan's brown wire to F on that same capacitor. Yes you will need the fans capacitor to make the fan run. Then you find a speed red low blue medium black high (one speed only) on the other hot line and then you have a fan I have one mounted on an old windmaker frame I trash pile picked
white is common black is hot wire, green is ground on that cord. Does the fan require a capacitor to run if so you connect white on the cord to C or common on the cap The black wire is the other hot wire also known as hot. green connects to the frame for safety. What you do is connect the hot black with a speed of your choice, yellow white and green yellow probably has to do with direction of rotation
If I sent you a picture of my ac with all the wiring more or less exposed, do you think you could show me which three I need to wire together to get the thing to run on Hi Fan/Hi Cool? The compressor isn't kicking on, I am pretty sure it's good.
@@TexCaliber, You need a ac old school cold control. See how I didn't cut no spade connections off there? The reason being, if I did come across an old ac control, all I need to do is push the common hot leg of the power cord to the cap onto the control and connect that other wire from common on the cap to the other terminal on the control and get me a metal plate mount it on that. Eliminate the electronic control altogether. Did that many times.
@@DanWebster Cool. If I wanted to buy a dial .. ('potentiometer'?) .. I guess I'd need to know the Ohm range.. Something like this: TWTADE / 2pcs rv24yn20s b202 2k ohm Single Turn Rotary Carbon Linear Variable Potentiometer,Used for Inverter Speed Regulation. Motor Speed Control + 2pcs A03 knob + 2pcs dials www.amazon.com/dp/B07DHFXDJC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mRZcFb7WAVYNW
Could you please contact me. I would like to send u a photo of my ac someone gave me. I desperately need to get it running. I live in south Louisiana and my kids grew up in the north. They arent use to this heat and they are passing out in the house. If u can please please respond thanks!
¿¿¿SO YR NOT USING THE ELECTRICAL BOARD AT ALL??? Im asking because I have a GE window Air Conditioner 110v the electrical board dont beep only the fan works but the compressor dont...Im gonna try yr Idea.thnks
*So amazingly quiet and **Fastly.Cool** in my room! 42db is at a whisper level. I bought 2 and installed myself.Very sturdy bracket and easy to adjust to fit windows of different size. Absolutely fabulous units!!*
Just finished a job on a similar one using my newly earned degree from JW's Backwoods School of HVAC Mastery. The room is already feeling cooler. Couldn't have done it without your help. Much appreciated my man!
Thanks.
God Bless ya, Brother!!! Because of you, I'm one of them's that got cold air on a hot day! Thanks - from this long-haired Kentucky country boy! That was my problem - you were my solution.
Glad to help
Connecticut can get hot too. I must say, I copied this idea on a broken 15000btu window unit and its better than new. I used 30A automotive switches. 1 for the fan, 1 for the compressor. On hi-cool, It can ice this place. Most useful video ever made. Thanks Dan!
Glad to help I hope they dont take my videos down like they kiled my 22 year old repair blog
words of wisdom :
1:00 , so there is 2 kinds of people in this world ,
them that has cold air coming into a room .
and them that dont have shit .
Yepperz
I knew there was a reason I found this video and it was the solution to exactly what I needed. I was born and raised in Mobile, AL.
Glad to help
Sorry about that, don't be afraid of change.
Dan, you're THE MAN. If you ever come to Philadelphia I'll buy you a few beers and a cheese steak.
preciate that brother
@@DanWebster I have an Arctic King 110 AC and I'm trying to hardwire it but I'm confused on how you're doing it could you please help me I'm desperate
Mr.Dan, you are awesome!!! I've been fighting with this ac for 2 weeks! I watched your video and had it going in less than an hour! You rock! Thank you so much ☺
Glad to help
PawPaw you are a dead set legend! Sweltering in the heat down here in Australia because the AC crappytronics broke down, followed this and now its working, house is cool again. Thanks so much man!
Well alright another happy viewer!
There is two kinds of people in this world those who have cold air coming into a room and them who don't have shit I almost spit out my coffee that was great
Thanks I am here all week
The problem with mine was the ground fault plug. I checked for voltage inside the machine and was seeing 120 volts but I must have been using the chassis for the negative probe on my meter. But when checking continuity from the plug to the circuit board the common wire showed open so I replaced the plug and it's working now. Thanks for your video.
My neighbor is a scrap collector he had about 5 window units in his back yard. I've fixed 2 of them but one has a control board that is corroded bad. So I'm gonna try this the motor and compressor is usually more durable than the electronics.
My crappytronics quit on me. Now, I'm one of those that has cold air, thanks to you!
another cool customer...see where I went with that? Glad to help
hunny im cold. unplug the ac then. ok hunny
it's 2022 and there's still only 2 kinds of people in this world
you iz correct
Thanks MR. Webster that was exactly what a was looking for.
Glad to help
Thanks playa i tried it on my samsung and it worked god bless u and ur family
Spencer from Perry la just have to say this is the best and easiest explained video that I have ever watched I have fixed 3 ac units that i changed he that were only 8months old I now one of the ones that have AC and not one of the ones ones that don't thank you coolest house. another thing I am trying to wire one with a DC motor can you help me
I doubt if a dc motor would work thats why Mr teslas shoctricity is used over mr edisons dc current.
Worked for me they all ways seem to quit at the worst possible time like 120deg on my front porch today , Las Vegas,Thank Y0u Alabama , La. boy myself
Glad to help
Thanks for the video.. My wall AC unit died because the display circuit board died. Go figure.. The one part they don't sell or replace! So now I'm sitting in a nice cool room thanks to you!
Well alright, I have .16 cents in my pay pal send me 5 bucks so I can buy me a 40 and party on. love it when a plan comes together. Pay pal button on my home page
Now you got $5.16 ... Enjoy the beer and thanks again !
Thank ye kindly Kind sir!
You rule! $130 for new circuit board or pull a switch out of a junk pile and make it work. "Don't matter if you got it hot wired up to hell and back."
You can also put a line voltage thermostat on the extension cord after hard wiring it and now it has a thermostat ( with cold air coming into the room)
Thank you brother...
Greetings from Louisiana..
Roll tigers...lol
Thanks a lot for posting this. Entertaining as well as entertaining you sir are the jerry rigging king
If I had to I could add a low voltage single pole contactor and run some doorbell voltage to a wall thermostat to turn the unit on and off. Thanks
How do you keep it from freezing? I kind of did the same thing I wired the compressor to the hot side of the cord coming in the unit to bypass the Tstat but it freezes within a 30 mins of constant running
The compressor has 3 wires C common R run and S Start make sure you have one hot wire going to Run (not start) It should be one fan speed of your choice and Run on one hot leg and the other hot leg is to Common or C on the capacitor.
Thank you M.Webster. You helped me out.
Glad to help
JW this is one of your best vids Ever! I laughed with mouthful of beer & it come out my Damn nose... That line about 2 kinds of people is a classic Ol Boy! Hahahahaha!
I knew you would like that. Heehee
When I first started to work for Mr fred a young woman came in and declared she needed her ac checked out. She was from the projects and had a sickly child. The cold control and the switch was both gone and it was clogged and dirty as hell. So I cleaned it up and put a new switch and cold control and told her how much and she said nope, she didnt have that kind of money. So i asked Mr Fred about it and he straight wired it up so that it would run till Christmas and NO Charge, That is just how he was. Always helping out the poor.
We bought a new low line GE 4000btu years ago for storm use. It only had an on & off switch with no external stat control. I had a fixed internal stat, Damn thing would cycle off the compressor before the room got cold. I jumped out the fixed stat with a HD toggle switch. It made ice cold air then... When it started blowing snow & ice I'd switch of the pot & let it defrost for a few mins. Hah!
hey pawpaw!first rule! when it's hot like this, you gotta stay hydrated! you need to chug some beers or you gonna fall face down man! think of priorities!
martin blouin Gotta have green stamps to drank beer; aint worked in years
Nice hot wire job PawPaw, too bad you can't find a old set of manual controls from a broken air conditioner that you can plug into that unit..usually those old manual controls last forever..
D. J. Tanner If you have a cold control you can wire it to shut down the ac energy saver. I can also connect any kind of switch if I had one. used to sell appliance parts and HVAC stuff.
OUTSTANDING Dan
Thank you God for woodchucks. Sticking it to the man.
I hope you survived the hurricane JW.
we did really well no high water. Lots of rain.
probably runs better now. You could always use an external thermostat to cut power to the unit
exactly
Central air went down due to a bad compressor. Tested ok for resistance across the terminals, but even with new relay, capacitor, and hardstart kit, still wont kick on. Then the window unit in the bedroom went out too. It was a Maytag and very similar to the one in this video. Needless to say, the bedroom is nice and cool now that i hardwired the AC to run in the cold & fast mode only. Those stupid circuit boards seem to be the weak link in modern AC units. Go figure, AC units make condensation and circuit boards tend to fry when there is too much moisture. Energy Star is about the stupidest thing ever. They are trying to save the planet by manufacturing more AC units and producing more refrigerant due to people replacing AC units that have perfectly good compressors, fans, relays and capacitors. It's a crying shame. Thanks for the informative video. You wouldn't believe it, but one 8k BTU in the back of the house and one 5k BTU in the front of the house is keeping 4 rooms & a hallway nice and cool even in 95 degree weather. Someone forgot to tell the air conditioner that it is impossible for 13000 BTU's to cool 900 square feet. I even had to turn the one in front down to low because it was getting too cold, lol.
Thanks for the vidya. Im going to try this.
Ice well start to form on the evaporator
The compressor should turn on and off every once in while
Other then that your fine
You are a genius
dunka shine Kimosabe
Thanks man got my AC going nice and cool. Sure do appricate you!!!!
Like a boss, brother, like a boss~! :)
love it when a plan comes together
The capacitor has 3 terminals F fan Herm hermetically sealed compressor and C common. You need one hot side to be connected to C or common. The other hot wire goes to a fan speed of your choice, I chose hi or black and the other wire is the compressor RUN wire marked R on top the compressor (the heavy blue wire that was connected to the relay that dropped a turd). Note: I taped off the small blue and red fan speed wires away from anything and probably needed to tape em above the water line also. Buy a cheap cold control (link is below) and use it to make and break the electical path:
www.ebay.com/p/190982601?iid=113983921968&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=113983921968&targetid=917185845248&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9012979&poi=&campaignid=9343999179&mkgroupid=103102860388&rlsatarget=pla-917185845248&abcId=1139336&merchantid=131363241&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0YD4BRD2ARIsAHwmKVnG29fVN0FW1zr6LpJ2dk9FUhp4phRycUGT4Hl28xUwYvU22xeTUgIaAnZeEALw_wcB
Dan, you crack me up buddy 🤪
HA
Find an older window unit with a good cold control in it. The cold control can be mounted in the common wire going to the capacitor Just plug a hot leg in one side of the control and run a jumper wire from other side to the capacitor common terminal to interrupt the power when the desired room temp is reached. mount the control on a plate so it can be operated manually or just turn it up wide open and stick the mercury sensing bulb out front.
How do you wire a 230 volt air conditioner
@@Longoria1966 same way get one hot leg to the c on the capacitor and connect the compressor RUN wire plus one fan speed to the other hot leg to control it you put in some sort of thermostat you can use a contactor and low voltage wall stat or even a mercury bulb thermostat off an old 240 volt unit.
So would I have to use 2 compasters?
The compressor has 3 wires and the fan has 5 wires.. could you do a video showing how to hook up the wires?
@@Longoria1966 All you need on one hot wire is compressor RUN and a fan speed small black wire off the fan motor. The other hot wire goes to common marked C on the capacitor. Its just that simple. Tape off all the other wires and zip tie em out the water on the base of the unit.
Add any kind of control to shut it off and on you prefer.
3 Wires from compressor
C=Black Wire / S=Red Wire / R=Blue Wire
goes to the 2 pin Capacitor
5 Wires From The Fan
H=Black Wire / M= Blue Wire / L=Red Wire
White Wire / Brown Wire -------\One for the Run And the other for the start
Black 4 pin Capacitor For the fan
My thermostat is lost how to connect it without a thermostat
Thank's for your time for reading my message
Bubba damn you got somepun upstairs!
thanks for sharing the know how ! Had a burned out board they wanted $125 for. Now when i plug it in it cools and when i unplug it, it doesn't. Hahaha
Glad to help
Incredible 😎🤩👍
8 years later a neighbor's window unit is sitting on the work cart with a bad control panel. I'll see if they want to do this or pay 180 dollars for a new control board, we know the answer to that one. For my place I wired up a low voltage transformer with contactor to a dedicated outlet with a thermostat on the wall.
school em grasshopper, you are now a sublime master of appliantology. I am pawpaw the sublime master designated by the dojo himself.
I would drill two holes in that front electronic and then get a high/medium/low switch and a SPST switch and wire it so you can have control of the fan speed and compressor separately. But then you can just shut it off if you get cold and turn it back on when you get hot.
just a switch with the bulb in it to sense cold and stop power would be sufficient
Did u connect all the wires urself or thats how it was from factiry??
Advice to everyone out there, if it doesnt work AFTER a quick hotwire, throw it away. hopefully train them to give us nothing but on/ off switch. And I mean for the compressor not just the useless fan.
of course, if it had a leak or a bad compressor toss it, but 99% can be hardwired big ones for businesses and churches, small ones for small rooms.
think i saw leatherface lurking in the background... o_0
Man, you made my day bro! If u ain't got the best attitude then I'll kiss a dogs ass under the nearest stoplight & give ya 10 minutes to draw a crowd player....hahaah! Hey Dan-o' you and the family have a happy & safe Independence Day my friend. Much love from the ol' boy here in NC. PEACE
happy 4th of july and may we all have the freedom to help each other on this here al gore interweb. -pawpaw
I really need your expertise.. could I video and show you what's going on with mine? Bought used for 250 and compressor kicked in but fan doesn't
make a video post it I will take a look.
you have any advice on how to remove the motor wires off without cutting them
frigidaire air conditioner not turning on. Just cleaned it. Now it wont turn on. Waiting on it to dry. Might have to do this to mine. But i dont know a lick about fixing or bypassing ac units. Need help.
Just get one side to C on the capacitor and use one speed for the fan, connect that to the compressor wire (usually is on a big relay on the board).
@@DanWebster Thanks for the reply . Its working now. I got the plug wet. It kept trippin.
I'm working on it.
Watched this video a hundred times.
Starting to catch on.
I hope I do before I blow it up.
Ditched the control panel altogether.
But that other board with the black box is causing me some grief.
that's a little booster ground fault dohickey that sposed to stop arching. could be an extra booster fer the ac to get her going also
you need to just make a judgement call on it
Will a window ac that’s temp changes lower on its own every so many min or a few seconds later slowly or quickly as it beeps can it be bypassed ? We checked it out nothing Seens out of the ordinary.
I got it once to hold at 74 but my husband not so lucky it’s a good ac bought in 2016 not our only window unit but it helps keep the living room n kitchen cool when used together . It’s a hailer blows better n cooker then the new one we just needed two. Sorry question is scattered I got a chicken in the house aggravating me.
Or do we find a free if 5$?used junk knew identical n try changing out motherboards ir the Lilly hood smashed ur diff prob made it junk or sold or free
any window unit control can be bypassed
@@DanWebster yet again I tried plugged it in after hitting reset n it came on n heard a steady 75 degrees it’s the temp it likes n don’t move when I sometimes attempt it apparently don’t like my husband hoping it’s being relearning n we won’t have any further problems this summer
@@DanWebster no I was just standing I front of it after holding stead at a good temp I stood I front n vent down to vet something near it n the temp dropped a degree I walked across the room n heard another beep took my Chios to the couch another been it had droped 6 or 8 degrees in a min the time it took me to finish a few chips in dip
Love your vid. I have many LG AC's that are "Shot Out" and stacked up lick cord wood waiting for a repair similar to the one you did with a few more features .My last LG unit was 9 days past its 1 year warranty and quit. They said they would fix or replace because it was so close to the expiration date but did neither . These companies are trying to rip us off with stupid features like energy saver and dry mode. If you remove the Hi Tech circuit board and back date the unit to the 1980's with simple controls we can make these units last for 15-30 years with proper cleaning. Lets teach these POS companies that we are not going to buy BS appliances with any connection to computers/cell phones or trying to save $5.00 a month on a power bill. and all we want is a AC that cools and last as long as our parents units did. I am in the beginning stage of a "backdate " of these units . The main aspect we want to accomplish is adapting an old school thermostat and simple control for on/off . Any help would be great. I own a machine shop but am not an AC expert and any help from you or viewers would be great !
a kit to convert the units with simple fan and thermostat is what I been thinking about for years.
once you straight wire it is very easy to break circuits with controls ans fix fan speeds with cheap switches.
Hello can y'all help me out, So basically connect the common wire in the capacitor to one of the main power lines, then connect the high fan and which part of the compressor wire? my compressor has 3 wires, 1 common,1 starting and 1 running which of these should i connect to the other power line, thanks
RUN wire. The compressor has 3 terminals marked C for COMMON S for START and R for RUN you need the R wire (RUN) and a fan speed. I use black or high fan and tape the other speeds away from each other and the frame so they wont get shorted to anything.
Note: you already have a wire from C on the cap to C on the compressor, no need to do anything with that one, you already have a wire from HERM (herm stands for hermetically sealed compressor by the way) on the cap to start on the compressor, no need to worry with that wire; so that leaves the R wire needing power to complete the circuit. It is simple when you think about it. The fan motor likewise already has common from the cap connected and F on the cap to initialize it, so it basically needs one them speeds to complete its circuit.
Nearly everyone who owns a GE window unit is viewing this video.
You the man
went from learning how to rig to fixing my ac without rigging
If the temperature sensor is broken faulty the compressor wont turn on.It needs to be replaced or a temporary fix as you have showed in your video.
they do not break though
I need ur help with my air conditioner. . The reset n test light comes on but dats all it will do.. do u think this technique would do
You can jump any of em but they going to stay going and freeze up if the temp drops outside is all. Basically, you have a hot feed to C for common on the cap as one leg of power; then you need a fan speed and compressor run wire connected to the other leg of power. If you can get your hands on an old style thermostat off an old ac you can use that to turn it on and off
Can u run tha motor without tha compressor
yeah just don't connect it.
leave that wire out the circuit.
if you wanted to get fancy you could put a switch to allow the fan to run and kill the compressor. If that wasn't doing it you could flip the switch and add in the cold, purty cool don't ya thank? If you wanted to take it a step farther you could get a 120 volt 2 pole contactor and a line voltage ac stat and set the stat for 74 to kill the whole thang or just the compressor.
blue and red were speeds not needed so I taped em off
good Job JW... ! :)
OldManCooking Thanks I have older videos showing how to hardwire using a crappy phone camera. I thought I would make another using the Canon.
Would this work for 230v Ac
I ve done it on 220 acs also same thing L-2 goes to common on cap C and you need one fan speed only of your choice and compressor R for run on the L-1 heres one I hooked up: ua-cam.com/video/mhFbGhgxFXg/v-deo.html
Typo, it's definitely a 220v.
Mr Dan, why my 220v window unit only works like 10 min. When I plug it in and then the compressor turn off.
thank you Daddy
Done this to mine yesterday and the coils froze up, any ideas on how to remedy im guessing because lack of thermostat now. lm in tn. So i relate to never getting cool enough
get a cheap amazon window ac themostat as posted in the comments below
@@DanWebster thank you very much sir you have been a big help. Thank you for what you do in passing along real help in a way normal people understand.
How to get fan motor to blow alot more air
How would you wirie a 220 volt window unit?
The same way, one side of the 220v to the common on cap; the other side of the 220 to HI fan and compressor RUN terminal.
I have power to a 220v GE 24000 btu but nothing comes on.. not the compressor.. not the fan.. not the motherboard and there is nothing on the internet about it... it was an expensive unit and barely got used before moisture crept into the board
you can easily bypass them crappytronics and get an old school cold control to operate the temp by simply cutting current at the achieved temp. One hot leg to the common on the cappacitor and one hot leg to a fan speed and to compressor run. Somewhere in the common connection, you will place the mercury-based thermostat in series so that it will stop the flow of power at the desired temp and not freeze up the unit. Here is a 220 volt 18,000 I wired up to run without controls: ua-cam.com/video/mhFbGhgxFXg/v-deo.html
How do you know which wires to hook up I've got the panel off I don't know exactly which ones to hook up to the white and red
On most window ac's the wires for fan speeds is smaller and marked red for low blue is medium and black is high speed. White is common on MOST units but you can verify that by finding common on capacitor. Common will be marked C and have 4 terminals HERM (hermetically sealed unit-compressor) will have 3 terminals and Fan will have 2 terminals, so common will have a live wire, a wire for common to compressor, and a wire from fan motor (usually solid brown). A brown wire with a white stripe is the fan motor's common and is connected to the C on the capacitor. The solid brown wire is connected to F on the capacitor for the fan. A thick black or red wire from the compressor connects from the S (start) terminal on the Compressor at HERM on the capacitor. Both of them wires serve to help boost the unit on start up. So really their ain't no need to mess with the capacitor wiring, just get one hot wire to common. The fan's speeds cannot touch each other or ground out. So what I am using is High speed fan and compressor Run (marked R on the compressor) wire from compressor, & a hot wire on one side of the power cord AND a hot wire from the power cord to common C on the capacitor side. Confused yet?
if you have an older unit with a old time fan switch you can also connect that up by running a hot wire to the dummy post in the middle then your solid brown wire and you compressor wire which is usually a fat black wire or a fat red wire and then connect you fan speeds to the top line of switches black to 1 blue to 2 red to 3 and hot wire to compressor to C on the switch. Then you can actually turn the thang on and off; of course it still wouldnt shut down because it does not have a thermostat but that can be easily added as well be in connect between C on switch and the compressor. Confused yet? Another thing you could do is simply add a old time thermostat and cut the flow anywhere in the circuit to common. When it got cool the dang thang will shut down. The End.
hi, do you anything about a Samsung? the timer is going off. I didn't set it. this units works by remote only. thanks
A remote controlled appliance? What in the world for? Maybe you have a stuck button on your remote?
take the batt out the remote and unplug the machine then plug it back in and see if the timer still dies the same thang and that is just a guess I aint even seen a samsung up close.
Dan Webster ok, Awesome. thanks!! yeah it only works by remote because we cleaned it last year ( obviously the wrong way) and the controls on the unit itself stopped working, so remote control it is. but was happy it worked that way😊
Come to think of it my brother in law gave me a small window unit with a remote. I straight wired it also and put it in my living room when my central unit quit.
Dan Webster I tried that, I'd didn't work. oh well, thanks for helping 😊
How do I take the fan and hook it up directly to the ac unit cord
you connect one hot leg to the C (stands for Common)on the capacitor and then hook the fan's brown wire to F on that same capacitor. Yes you will need the fans capacitor to make the fan run. Then you find a speed red low blue medium black high (one speed only) on the other hot line and then you have a fan I have one mounted on an old windmaker frame I trash pile picked
The colors on the cord is white green black...... On the fan there's a yellow white black blue red green/yellow
white is common black is hot wire, green is ground on that cord. Does the fan require a capacitor to run if so you connect white on the cord to C or common on the cap The black wire is the other hot wire also known as hot. green connects to the frame for safety. What you do is connect the hot black with a speed of your choice, yellow white and green yellow probably has to do with direction of rotation
email me some photos I am topslosher@gmail.com
Show wire colors
If I sent you a picture of my ac with all the wiring more or less exposed, do you think you could show me which three I need to wire together to get the thing to run on Hi Fan/Hi Cool? The compressor isn't kicking on, I am pretty sure it's good.
Yeah do a video or a picture message me: facebook.com/DannyWebsterPawPaw
Hey awesome, I wasn't expecting such a quick reply.
Is that clear enough or should I do e better one? With just 2 knobs I don't think it should be hard, not having to bypass electronics or anything.
email me dannywebster@ymail.com
Not trying to bug you, just letting you know I emailed you.
I messaged you on Facebook brother I’m having a really hard time fixing this if you can get back at me that be awesome
what ya got any pic can you message me video message me
How about go in the house
dont make house calls sorry....
www.ebay.com/p/190982601?iid=113983921968&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=113983921968&targetid=917185845248&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9012979&poi=&campaignid=9343999179&mkgroupid=103102860388&rlsatarget=pla-917185845248&abcId=1139336&merchantid=131363241&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0YD4BRD2ARIsAHwmKVnG29fVN0FW1zr6LpJ2dk9FUhp4phRycUGT4Hl28xUwYvU22xeTUgIaAnZeEALw_wcB
cheap control on ebay
Hey Dan, thanks for the video. Question: How would ya set the shutoff temperature with that? Don't see a dial or nothing on it.
@@TexCaliber, You need a ac old school cold control. See how I didn't cut no spade connections off there? The reason being, if I did come across an old ac control, all I need to do is push the common hot leg of the power cord to the cap onto the control and connect that other wire from common on the cap to the other terminal on the control and get me a metal plate mount it on that. Eliminate the electronic control altogether. Did that many times.
@@DanWebster Cool. If I wanted to buy a dial .. ('potentiometer'?) .. I guess I'd need to know the Ohm range.. Something like this: TWTADE / 2pcs rv24yn20s b202 2k ohm Single Turn Rotary Carbon Linear Variable Potentiometer,Used for Inverter Speed Regulation. Motor Speed Control + 2pcs A03 knob + 2pcs dials www.amazon.com/dp/B07DHFXDJC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mRZcFb7WAVYNW
@@TexCaliber It would not work for an ac, sorry, just get a mercury bub ac cold control they on ebay for 10 bucks
Could you please contact me. I would like to send u a photo of my ac someone gave me. I desperately need to get it running. I live in south Louisiana and my kids grew up in the north. They arent use to this heat and they are passing out in the house. If u can please please respond thanks!
ha your video a slippery slope
¿¿¿SO YR NOT USING THE ELECTRICAL BOARD AT ALL??? Im asking because I have a GE window Air Conditioner 110v the electrical board dont beep only the fan works but the compressor dont...Im gonna try yr Idea.thnks
It is a small unit one room ac, it does not need a temp control to operate. but it will freeze up without one.