I've got a .393 Brit. It's a Lee-Enfield and its been sporterized, barrel was shortened a couple inches and then it was chamfered on the end. Then front sights remounted. A professional job. This rifle has only been fired 7 times. Just enough to zero the sights and scope.
The .243(depending on the ammo you used) was probably the most effective for getting thru plates. Speed kills body armor, rounds with a lot of mass stop but move the plate a lot more because of the energy transfer. Great vid tho, and good idea for making plates!
If your using old Ak ammo, the FMJ bullets have steel inserts to save on lead, it's almost a armor piercing bullet, so your plates worked pretty good up to that point.
Pull some 7.62x39 fmj projectiles & reload them into the 303 British with a max load of varget or similar powder. Some light for caliber projectiles from Barnes or Lehigh ( copper / brass ) & reloaded to a maximum published velocity in 243 & 308 will really test those plates. However those plates are doing really well. It starts to get tricky when trying to get maximum protection from thinnest & lightest plates. Excellent work.
I actually plan on making a set of plates to test out that are made by using fibreglass layers along with ceramic and rubber. The fibreglass sheets would act as a better spalling catcher. Also glad to see another Canadian inventing things because we can!
I just finished laying the fibreglass resin over the layers of fibreglass and I have it all clamped between 2 pieces of AR500 steel plates. Now I just have to wait a few days for it to fully cure and then I’ll be removing the steel plates and getting it trimmed down to size. If it turns out perfect on my first try I’ll be happy. I can’t wait to test it out
I would try wrapping each ceramic tile in duct tape then taping things all together. Then the steel. Maybe 2 layers of ceramic, maybe 3. I think homemade body armor is much more feasible than people ever really imagined.
Nicely done on your build, I did this almost exact same setup years ago with quarter inch cold rolled steel, and a bunch of 1”x1” octagonal ceramic tiles (kinda hard to find) and all bound together with fiberglass sheets and epoxy resin to hold it all together. I was happy to stop 5.56 and 7.62x39, I unfortunately didn’t try any other calibers.
I’m actually planning on using welding blankets with pl construction adhesive as my bonding cement, so I’m not sure how that’ll work, but I’m gonna test it out anyways. I’ll probably get some fibreglass cloth and resin for a future project
Shredded, melted and pressed milk jugs. About half an inch thick. Wrapped in fiberglass. Will stop 14 rounds. It will absorb the shrapnel. Lighter as well. Add your steel plate and it should stop everything you throw at it.
Best glue is the type that is semi harden, it helps reduce shrapnel as well as allows the slight viscosity to absorb the energy and allow slight movement of theses plates increasing the recoil and absorbance of energy. *Edit typo**
Normaly in sword making, real quality sword making they use two types of steel for laminated (damascus) steel, one soft and one hardened, they put it in many thin layers so you have a hard layer, then a soft, then a hard, and so on. Itgains the tolerance of the soft metal and the hardness of the hard metal with is desirable for combat swords. My point is, swords are designed to take hits and retain its integrity so a good analogy would be to use two common materials in many layers, hardened sheet steel and HDPE would be my starting point, why dont you give it a try, l dont have the time or resoruces to do that, lm a poor man and guns are very regulated in my contry but you could try, lm pretty sure it will be very cheap and effective to some degree. Anyway, good video man
I would try ceramic glued to aluminium glued to metal. With the rubber on the chest side to absorb some energy.maybe extra coats of glue/epoxy on the ceramic to keep it together
@@gregoryford5230 Very true. You obviously know this, but for those who don't, the layering of steels (Commonly miscalled "Damascus") was to compensate for Japan's crappy native metal. Not only was crucible steel yet to be invented, but Japan is an island country, and like all islands, the native iron is absolute garbage. Layering it compensated for this. it did not in anyway make it superior. layering modern steel has no advantages either since the normalization process would counter that anyway.
Tamahagane steel was made from basically pig iron and the process of folding was to remove impurities and add carbon to the steel. the differential temper also called the Hamon was the process that created the difference in malleability, flexibility and hardness in the finished sword. Tamahagane is not true damascus because the base metals are the same when forge welding the folds. they made exceptional blades for the quality of the steel they had, but european crucible steel is vastly superior. The long sword is both flexible and hardened, and overall less time consuming to forge than the months it would take a Japanese swordsmith to forge a single piece of a Daimyo set.
I'm using layers and layers of UHMWPE (about 60 layers) (easy to get from Alibaba without high cost) with hexagonal ceramic tiles (one layer) over the top, then the entire thing wrapped in a layer of Kevlar fabric. You might want to wrap these things in at least a thick layer of ballistic nylon, if not some kevlar fabric (not expensive) to help capture shrapnel. I use 2 inch hexagonal ceramic tiles so that bullet strikes will only destroy the tile it hits. If you use big pieces of tile, a bullet will wreck the entire tile.
I tend to crush up ceramic tile and add it to my resin and use regular automotive fiberglass mats. I later them about 10-15 thick and double them in a vest over vitals and single over other areas with a layer of rubber/nylon that is just plyable enough to move and keep shrapnel out but still able to move. Hasnt failed yet. I'd like to make a video to upload but times are tough right now.
@@Liam_Boschman I'm thinking about filming a friend and I doing a $20 Home Depot armor challenge. If you have Home Depot up there, might be a fun video for you too.
Good video. I can see why fiberglass and resin is added for these plates. It makes a huge difference in retaining the shape instead of shattering to pieces.
@@Liam_Boschman now that I thought about it: isn't "hard to cut" a good thing in this case? And the shaping issue, how about cutting into strips and just glueing them to the ceramic?
@@templarioaph: The resulting numerous joints/ junctions for such rubbers, will increase the chance for a "sneak bullet" to find a secret tunnel- toward your body, unless the "steel plate" did its job well...
Try ceramic, 40 layers of fiberglass in resin, a steel plate, and then a horse stall mat. Then encase the entire thing in fiberglass with 3 to 5 layers. Then wrap the entire thing in the strongest duct tape you can buy. Might make a good plate.
Maybe swap the horse stall matt for hdpe between ceramic and steel fiberglass shouldn't cause the bullet to break up enough to spall and the hdpe ( used in swimmer ballistic plates ) would do a better job at catching fragments than the rubber if firmly against the plate
Colm Mythen that’s a really good idea. If you could get away with it, you could use hdpe along with a horse stall mat if there is some that is a half inch or thinner. Everything I’ve seen is 3/4 inch or bigger tho sadly😭😭
Have you though to try a mosaic tile made up of many small tile's. The tiles not hit in the first shot should still have structural integrity? It would be an interesting test.
Yessir, it’s been out for a while - look for the blue Dragon Skin video, I used some mosaic tile on that one. I won’t spoil how it went but I hope you enjoy it!
I wonder what effect tempering the steel would have?, wether it's possible to get away with just the steel plate (maybe two layers) if it's tempered to just right degree. Still a very impressive for home made cheap armour.
Well, it doesn’t look fun to be shot while wearing it, but definitely better than without. I might opt for shrapnel protection on the head and neck, those ceramic chunks are flying
Would have been nice if you cut the ceramic tiles into square bits so in case the plate got hit only the individual block would shatter and not the rest of the plate.
I think all of the high power rounds would go straight through, the ceramic breaks up the bullet then the rubber and steel catch the fragments. The ceramic is crucial for this armour design
My idea n choice maybe would be steel rubber ceramic rubber covered with denim then gorrila tapped I'm wondering if my idea of denim could act as catching any splintered bullets as an anti spalling material?
1/4 steel, rubber back and front and 1" of fiberglass woven matt at different angles will stop just about anything fired at you and take multiple shots unlike ceramic that exploded and likely cause more harm to you arm, neck and eyes.
Its not just the hardness of porcelain tiles as the high speed fracture absorbs energy whilst the hardness helps spread. Again though there isn't a single material that is best as a composite of engineering materials with differing engineering properties likely will be best. Porcelain floor tiles seem to get better results from other vids, so use 2x layers of overlapping tiles spaced with a half tile thickness of rubberised resin with a fibreglass back pad. Likely the top surface of tiles doesn't adhere well and going the full hog a diamond cup wheel on an angle grinder can prep the surface (does this lose hardness ?). Also to encase and wrap with final layers that cover over the front and overlap on the back to create a complete wrapper is important if you do wish to stop lamination and also adds a further layer. A couple of final layers of Kevlar might only add $20-30 to the build but also add another excellent engineering property. So thats it floor tiles, welding blanket with a bit of kevlar just to finnish it off... PS vac forming due to the degassing is a better method than clamping.
UHMWPE is a really cool material you should mess around with, a layer of that and a layer of ceramic or steel should make much lighter much tougher plates and stop a lot of rounds.
Instead of flat plates (which would be far easier than what I'm about to suggest), would it increase effectiveness to cut these materials into Dragon Skin-like interlocking scales? Two 1/8" layers of sheet metal, two 3/16" layers of ceramic tile, followed by the horse mat, wrap in duct tape, then laminate in fiberglass?
YOU, and a lot of us, were definitely "P"....but given what has gone on in the 2 months since you made this video...now we are AWESOME and everyone is calling us for help!! Cool vid bro.
Hey what’s up everybody thanks for checking out my channel!! Make sure to Subscribe so you don’t miss my other Body Armor videos that are in the making including a DIY FIBREGLASS BODY ARMOR vid!!
Well I basically made it out of scrap that I found around by place, the tiles were from a thrift store for a couple bucks and the steel was from the dump so....free
Why do people confuse being prepare with being paranoid? People always say all their paranoid and then years later they just say they were smart.. I wear my body armor everywhere I go also along with my AR pistol it's just it hard finding Ziploc bags to keep it dry in the shower
Subbed off intro. The p word ha nice. Good stuff man into the same stuff. Loving making stuff and seeing how on pair my work is to the market. Keep it up
Excellent videos and channel, my friend. One small piece of advice: When choosing the order of which calibers to shoot the armour with, always remember that speed is more important than mass. Therefore, you should actually try firing the shotgun slug first, then the .308, then the .243. Because the .243 is traveling so much faster than a .308 that it is more likely to penetrate. And the 12 GA slug is so much slower that even its large mass will not be enough to defeat the plate. Keep shooting stuff and making cool videos!
Or you could buy a piece of AR500 IDPA 1/2” steel target. I got 6 of them for my private range in Kamloops BC. They’re like $89 for a chest sized piece, just cut the square head piece off. For competition I actually use a 3A rifle rated ceramic on the front and pistol only for the rear. (I have enough for both sets including carriers but don’t think it’s necessary for competition use to have rifle for front and back. For pistol only events I only have 3A soft for comfort. Two years ago a gentleman accidentally shot himself in the liver and died. To add insult to injury he had some plates in his trunk 20 yards away in the parking lot. For just a little bit of extra pain, he was a doctor and apparently a really good person. So now I wear protection, mostly to protect myself from my own mistakes.
I actually do use a couple of Caldwell AR500 gongs at my normal range just for high power targets and they work great for stopping bullets that’s for sure. Sounds like you got a pretty sick range you got there!
Boschman Tactics not too bad, but the cattle used to walk through it and stomp everything. So we hung cables 8-10ft up and slide the steel across on quick links with short lengths of cable or chain.
I don't think the 20ga shrapnel actually punctured the jug. It was the shock of the metal hitting it. Unless you actually had fragments in it but being a large gash it was probably the steel. I'd have put the rubber behind the steel just for your comfort.
Got a suggestion code everything and spray and silk hey make it in a gallon can and you can dip it in and make a thick rubber outer coating by doing it more than once make it stick as possible
@@Liam_Boschman yeah I'm sorry about that. Little do they know bolt weapons are just as deadly as if not more deadly than semiautomatic weapons. Great video though man !
Try this layering (front to back): -rubber pad. -6mm mild steel plate. -ceramic tile (must be plain smooth & not corrugated) vacuum sandwiched in 5layers each front & back fibreglass sheets. Glue with fibreglass resin. -uhmwpe chopping board. Then wrap it all up with duct tape, or sew it all in a case of denim. Reason for the layering sequence is such: -chopping board initially dampens the speed of the bullet. -ceramic tile stops the energy of the bullet. -denim case keeps the ceramic tiles from flaying. -fibreglass slows down bullet. -steel plate stops the bullet from penetrating. -rubber pad protects wearer from injury from spalls and whatever energy is left that deforms the steel plate. Tried and tested to stop up to 7.62nato & 7.62russian military rounds. Combat tested and proven by guerilla fighters in the Phils. (CAFGU vs NPA commie fighters).
I’m a diesel mechanic by trade so I have lots of crap to weld together and want to shoot, so if your around southern Ontario we could make a fun video or two
@@Liam_Boschman I have a a couple level 3 ar500 plates coming from Canarmour, maybe we could make a date and do some tests. Work up from .17 hmr up to whatever, it may be worth a road trip your way come spring/summer and we could possibly put a video together. Carrsey52 on Instagram. Cheers
Yah you totally can, there are multiple manufacturers that make and sell armor here, it's just expensive and thought I'd try and make my own for a fraction of the price
Aside from going Online shopping? In Canada, we have a huge selection for options. Which is amazing, but they put a solid price on these things, which is the catch. However, we also have a ton of Super Stores of all types, that can offer you *the materials* at a reasonable value 👍
It wasn't shrapnel from the shotgun slug that busted your jug (as the fragments would not be able to curve around the plate to get to the jug behind it but will instead radiate outward parallel to the plate) what busted your jug was the kinetic force from the plate smacking into jug after being hit by the slug , but awesome video bud nonetheless , I would recommend getting some AR500 steel since its tempered much harder than mild steel and wrapping it in layers of fiberglass like from a fiberglass welding blanket and then coating each layer in epoxy the reason is the fiberglass has similar properties to kevlar so when the bullet hits the fiberglass epoxy layers it will be slowed down and deformed for the steel plate to absorb the rest not to mention the fibers will do a much better job of catching the fragmentation , also if your un able to get a hold of AR500 steal try tempering your mild steel plate so as to make it harder
@@Liam_Boschman thanks for the awesome video and for replying to my comment which I did not expect , you just earned yourself another subscriber keep up the good work my man 👍
I think that you would see better results on retention of your ceramic layers, if you used two or three layers of hexagonal shaped (square is less useful) 1/4" tiles to prevent the spread of cracking. It would also allow covering your steel plate if you managed to make it curved
I wonder if you can make a custom vest with 3 or 4 pockets on the front for body armor, so you can have multiple layers to ensure the bullet doesn't get through
@@Liam_Boschman I have your comment settings for some reason, I have your questions comments, I can see comments you haven't responded to, it's weird af
Go to the hdpe2 plastics they float They will handle the shrapnel (spalling) And they are structurally solid but they need to be wrapped in resin and fibreglass
Speed is what defeats armor and details matter. 243 would definitely go through if it wasnt soft point. Easily 3k fps, same as standard 223/556. The 303 would be going at least 300fps less than the 243. Since the 7.62x39 was FMJ, it went straight through despite speed likely slower than the 243.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
You may wear it everywhere, but you're wearing it too low. The top of the plate should be parallel with your collar bone.
BRENT HOLT came here to say this
first thing I noticed
I’m pretty sure he doesn’t have a back plate which makes it heavy in the front?
Haha someone understands! Thanks dude😂
Boschman Tactics No problem. People get quick to speak instead of think. Unfortunately it’s a very common disability among social media outlets. 😉
Tears in my old eyes! The .303 British was my first rifle! Twenty bucks!
That’s awesome man! I’m glad I could take you back to the good old days!
Damn that's what I call value for money
I've got a .393 Brit. It's a Lee-Enfield and its been sporterized, barrel was shortened a couple inches and then it was chamfered on the end. Then front sights remounted. A professional job.
This rifle has only been fired 7 times. Just enough to zero the sights and scope.
The .243(depending on the ammo you used) was probably the most effective for getting thru plates. Speed kills body armor, rounds with a lot of mass stop but move the plate a lot more because of the energy transfer. Great vid tho, and good idea for making plates!
Thanks!
If your using old Ak ammo, the FMJ bullets have steel inserts to save on lead, it's almost a armor piercing bullet, so your plates worked pretty good up to that point.
Pull some 7.62x39 fmj projectiles & reload them into the 303 British with a max load of varget or similar powder.
Some light for caliber projectiles from Barnes or Lehigh ( copper / brass ) & reloaded to a maximum published velocity in 243 & 308 will really test those plates.
However those plates are doing really well.
It starts to get tricky when trying to get maximum protection from thinnest & lightest plates.
Excellent work.
I actually plan on making a set of plates to test out that are made by using fibreglass layers along with ceramic and rubber. The fibreglass sheets would act as a better spalling catcher. Also glad to see another Canadian inventing things because we can!
Yessir! Sounds like an effective plan
I just finished laying the fibreglass resin over the layers of fibreglass and I have it all clamped between 2 pieces of AR500 steel plates. Now I just have to wait a few days for it to fully cure and then I’ll be removing the steel plates and getting it trimmed down to size. If it turns out perfect on my first try I’ll be happy. I can’t wait to test it out
Good luck man!
@Charles Yuditsky I’ve only made one test piece of just fibreglass layers (45 layers to be exact) I’ve yet to test it out though.
@@brandonrayner5253 2 yrs later, but interested in the results 🤣
This guy is so Canadian, I love it
I would try wrapping each ceramic tile in duct tape then taping things all together. Then the steel. Maybe 2 layers of ceramic, maybe 3. I think homemade body armor is much more feasible than people ever really imagined.
Squid Master rhino liner?
@@Richardpipi from holding real armor plates in my hand i think this is what they use on the real deal!
Nicely done on your build, I did this almost exact same setup years ago with quarter inch cold rolled steel, and a bunch of 1”x1” octagonal ceramic tiles (kinda hard to find) and all bound together with fiberglass sheets and epoxy resin to hold it all together. I was happy to stop 5.56 and 7.62x39, I unfortunately didn’t try any other calibers.
Yah that sounds really strong, my next project is going to be some fiberglass body armor...so stay tuned!
@@Liam_Boschman get some graphene and mix it with your resin. Should improve performance by a lot.
I’m actually planning on using welding blankets with pl construction adhesive as my bonding cement, so I’m not sure how that’ll work, but I’m gonna test it out anyways. I’ll probably get some fibreglass cloth and resin for a future project
Shredded, melted and pressed milk jugs. About half an inch thick. Wrapped in fiberglass. Will stop 14 rounds. It will absorb the shrapnel. Lighter as well. Add your steel plate and it should stop everything you throw at it.
@@Liam_Boschman welding blankets are high quality fiberglass... better than most fiberglass cloth...
Best glue is the type that is semi harden, it helps reduce shrapnel as well as allows the slight viscosity to absorb the energy and allow slight movement of theses plates increasing the recoil and absorbance of energy.
*Edit typo**
Normaly in sword making, real quality sword making they use two types of steel for laminated (damascus) steel, one soft and one hardened, they put it in many thin layers so you have a hard layer, then a soft, then a hard, and so on. Itgains the tolerance of the soft metal and the hardness of the hard metal with is desirable for combat swords. My point is, swords are designed to take hits and retain its integrity so a good analogy would be to use two common materials in many layers, hardened sheet steel and HDPE would be my starting point, why dont you give it a try, l dont have the time or resoruces to do that, lm a poor man and guns are very regulated in my contry but you could try, lm pretty sure it will be very cheap and effective to some degree. Anyway, good video man
I would try ceramic glued to aluminium glued to metal.
With the rubber on the chest side to absorb some energy.maybe extra coats of glue/epoxy on the ceramic to keep it together
This is a common katana-based misconception about swords and steel.
@@gregoryford5230
Very true. You obviously know this, but for those who don't, the layering of steels (Commonly miscalled "Damascus") was to compensate for Japan's crappy native metal. Not only was crucible steel yet to be invented, but Japan is an island country, and like all islands, the native iron is absolute garbage.
Layering it compensated for this. it did not in anyway make it superior. layering modern steel has no advantages either since the normalization process would counter that anyway.
You understand what the old definition of Damascus Steel is. I thought it did not exist
Tamahagane steel was made from basically pig iron and the process of folding was to remove impurities and add carbon to the steel. the differential temper also called the Hamon was the process that created the difference in malleability, flexibility and hardness in the finished sword. Tamahagane is not true damascus because the base metals are the same when forge welding the folds. they made exceptional blades for the quality of the steel they had, but european crucible steel is vastly superior. The long sword is both flexible and hardened, and overall less time consuming to forge than the months it would take a Japanese swordsmith to forge a single piece of a Daimyo set.
I'm using layers and layers of UHMWPE (about 60 layers) (easy to get from Alibaba without high cost) with hexagonal ceramic tiles (one layer) over the top, then the entire thing wrapped in a layer of Kevlar fabric. You might want to wrap these things in at least a thick layer of ballistic nylon, if not some kevlar fabric (not expensive) to help capture shrapnel. I use 2 inch hexagonal ceramic tiles so that bullet strikes will only destroy the tile it hits. If you use big pieces of tile, a bullet will wreck the entire tile.
I tend to crush up ceramic tile and add it to my resin and use regular automotive fiberglass mats. I later them about 10-15 thick and double them in a vest over vitals and single over other areas with a layer of rubber/nylon that is just plyable enough to move and keep shrapnel out but still able to move. Hasnt failed yet. I'd like to make a video to upload but times are tough right now.
Nice homemade stuff there! I love watching these kinds of tests.
Thanks man, I appreciate it! It was fun to make
@@Liam_Boschman I'm thinking about filming a friend and I doing a $20 Home Depot armor challenge. If you have Home Depot up there, might be a fun video for you too.
I was thinking about doing something along those lines, I’ll probably give it a shot eventually
@@Liam_Boschman Looking forward to it
Some old police cars had armor plates in the doors. Might look in a few junkyards for plates
That would be a cool find
Good video. I can see why fiberglass and resin is added for these plates. It makes a huge difference in retaining the shape instead of shattering to pieces.
Hey man, cool video, but keep your dog clear of downrange when you're firing.
have you considered making the rubber layer out of tires? Maybe the steel wires in them could provide more resistance to the rubber part
Ya that has crossed my mind but those things are a sucker to cut a shape
@@Liam_Boschman makes sense... I never tried making one of those, but your video is a great starting point! Thanks, bro. God bless you
@@Liam_Boschman now that I thought about it: isn't "hard to cut" a good thing in this case? And the shaping issue, how about cutting into strips and just glueing them to the ceramic?
@@templarioaph: The resulting numerous joints/ junctions for such rubbers, will increase the chance for a "sneak bullet" to find a secret tunnel- toward your body, unless the "steel plate" did its job well...
Glad to see you tested in the cold... pushing the whole brittleness factor
I shattered a cut piece of .750WT pipe with a .556 in below 0 weather Strangest thing I’ve ever seen
This is great for one shot. What can you do to make it take multiple shots?
It's not a question of whether or not you are paranoid, it's whether you are paranoid ENOUGH.
Nice vest have the exact same one had mine for 3 years never let me down
Thanks man!
Minute in and you deserve a like. That type of quality content gets you a sub too.
Very beautiful there, we don't see much snow here in North Carolina.
Beautiful is one way to describe it...definitely is colder
I was amazed when the first plate stopped the .243!
Ya man, I was shocked too when it started stopping the high power rounds!
Try ceramic, 40 layers of fiberglass in resin, a steel plate, and then a horse stall mat. Then encase the entire thing in fiberglass with 3 to 5 layers. Then wrap the entire thing in the strongest duct tape you can buy. Might make a good plate.
That would be too big to really have in a carrier, but it would definitely stop super fast rounds with great effect
Maybe swap the horse stall matt for hdpe between ceramic and steel fiberglass shouldn't cause the bullet to break up enough to spall and the hdpe ( used in swimmer ballistic plates ) would do a better job at catching fragments than the rubber if firmly against the plate
Colm Mythen that’s a really good idea. If you could get away with it, you could use hdpe along with a horse stall mat if there is some that is a half inch or thinner. Everything I’ve seen is 3/4 inch or bigger tho sadly😭😭
200 kilos
Have you though to try a mosaic tile made up of many small tile's. The tiles not hit in the first shot should still have structural integrity? It would be an interesting test.
I got some plates in the making with exactly that configuration...stay tuned
@@Liam_Boschman any updates?
Yessir, it’s been out for a while - look for the blue Dragon Skin video, I used some mosaic tile on that one. I won’t spoil how it went but I hope you enjoy it!
Good job!
I find T-Rex duct tape works better than Gorilla... 😇
Thanks man
I agree this is the best tape.
I wonder what effect tempering the steel would have?, wether it's possible to get away with just the steel plate (maybe two layers) if it's tempered to just right degree. Still a very impressive for home made cheap armour.
I’m sure it would help, that’s more along the lines of ar500 steel, which I don’t think I can do in my backyard 😂
The link is to a mild construction steel. Hardening wouldn't have a discernable effect.
Just a tip if you put the hores rubber or some fiberglass on both sides it may absorb some of the destruction of the ceramic tile
Well, it doesn’t look fun to be shot while wearing it, but definitely better than without. I might opt for shrapnel protection on the head and neck, those ceramic chunks are flying
That was neat. What if you used overlapping tiny tiles?
Thanks man!
Check out my Dragon Skin video, I did exactly that!
Not scared ! Just prepared!
try using leaf spring of a car
Back your vest with high impact plastic from a Black 55 gallon clench top drum. Expanse in vest gets stuck in plastic
What specifically would I ask for my ceramic purchase, is it a special type of ceramic. Is it like a ceramic floor tile? Thanks
All I used was some ceramic floor tiles, unfortunately I have no idea what it was specifically
Was your dog down range from time mark 7:23 to 7:29??
Would have been nice if you cut the ceramic tiles into square bits so in case the plate got hit only the individual block would shatter and not the rest of the plate.
For sure...and that’s exactly what I did in my Dragon Skin Body Armor video, check it out!
What would happen with just rubber and steel?
I think all of the high power rounds would go straight through, the ceramic breaks up the bullet then the rubber and steel catch the fragments. The ceramic is crucial for this armour design
My idea n choice maybe would be steel rubber ceramic rubber covered with denim then gorrila tapped I'm wondering if my idea of denim could act as catching any splintered bullets as an anti spalling material?
1/4 steel, rubber back and front and 1" of fiberglass woven matt at different angles will stop just about anything fired at you and take multiple shots unlike ceramic that exploded and likely cause more harm to you arm, neck and eyes.
Its not just the hardness of porcelain tiles as the high speed fracture absorbs energy whilst the hardness helps spread. Again though there isn't a single material that is best as a composite of engineering materials with differing engineering properties likely will be best.
Porcelain floor tiles seem to get better results from other vids, so use 2x layers of overlapping tiles spaced with a half tile thickness of rubberised resin with a fibreglass back pad.
Likely the top surface of tiles doesn't adhere well and going the full hog a diamond cup wheel on an angle grinder can prep the surface (does this lose hardness ?). Also to encase and wrap with final layers that cover over the front and overlap on the back to create a complete wrapper is important if you do wish to stop lamination and also adds a further layer.
A couple of final layers of Kevlar might only add $20-30 to the build but also add another excellent engineering property.
So thats it floor tiles, welding blanket with a bit of kevlar just to finnish it off...
PS vac forming due to the degassing is a better method than clamping.
just subbed...happy to see Canadians having fun with guns! as a gun enthusiast and American i can appreciate the fun you are having! enjoy!
Thanks man! I appreciate it!🙌
@@Liam_Boschman Which province are you in? Manitoba banned the purchase of plates :( so stupid haha
UHMWPE is a really cool material you should mess around with, a layer of that and a layer of ceramic or steel should make much lighter much tougher plates and stop a lot of rounds.
@conorposter : May I know the meaning of UHMWPE?.. Was the common blue colored plastic drum, has similar quality as UHMWPE?...
Better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it.
Amazing video!
Thank you! And Merry Christmas!
@@Liam_Boschman merry christmas!❤
Instead of flat plates (which would be far easier than what I'm about to suggest), would it increase effectiveness to cut these materials into Dragon Skin-like interlocking scales? Two 1/8" layers of sheet metal, two 3/16" layers of ceramic tile, followed by the horse mat, wrap in duct tape, then laminate in fiberglass?
How much did it weigh ?
How doesn't this guy have more subs with 66,000 views on this vid?
Preciate it man
@@Liam_Boschman Sure thing. Great vid btw
GENIUS!!
STAY SAFE OUT THERE!
Thanks man! I got more body armor videos in the making so stay tuned!
You stay safe too my man
YOU, and a lot of us, were definitely "P"....but given what has gone on in the 2 months since you made this video...now we are AWESOME and everyone is calling us for help!! Cool vid bro.
😂 Preciate it my man!
Hi, I'm here in June, none of us were even close to P enough.
September checking in and yea everyone thought I was massively P before, 2020=vindication. However I am afraid to be correct about the next phase.
When you said "the p word", I thought you were gonna say "poor" cause you making your own III armor
Love this 🔥 question tho , do you use or mount anything to stop the ceramic from flying up into ur chin or arms ?
No with this concept I didn’t use anything to protect the arms and chin. It would definitely be a consideration in further models
Hey what’s up everybody thanks for checking out my channel!!
Make sure to Subscribe so you don’t miss my other Body Armor videos that are in the making including a DIY FIBREGLASS BODY ARMOR vid!!
Will you ever do a spalling test to see if the round will come up into your jaw?
Is it legal to have body armor in Canada 🇨🇦
I suggest using ceramic mozaic, becuase a single layer is made of multiple tiles , I think it'll withstand more hits this way.
Ya definitely, that’s exactly what I’ve done in my newer armour models if you wanna check out my Dragon Skin version 1 video!
@@Liam_Boschman oh, alright
I'll check it out right away
Cool man, enjoy!
How much did the materials cost?
Well I basically made it out of scrap that I found around by place, the tiles were from a thrift store for a couple bucks and the steel was from the dump so....free
Are you an Alberta boy?
No sir, Manitoba prairies!
@@Liam_Boschman ah well at least you’re in the West 😁
Yessir!😂
@@Liam_Boschman Keep up the good content and I bet you’ll be getting more subs soon
Thanks man I appreciate the support
Have you heard back from Matt yet?
Why do people confuse being prepare with being paranoid? People always say all their paranoid and then years later they just say they were smart.. I wear my body armor everywhere I go also along with my AR pistol it's just it hard finding Ziploc bags to keep it dry in the shower
Well said.
@gulf-foxtrot-yankee5600 : Maybe the commenter was anti. gun advocate, globalist agenda believer, humean rightist, etc...
What about the ceramic flying evrywhere. Isn't that dangers
It certainly is dangerous, in my newer armour versions the spalling is much better, you should check out my Dragon Skin V1 video!
I will check it out.t hank you.
No problem my guy!!
What plate carrier do you use?
Weight?
New drinking game! You have to do a shot every time he says "sucker."
I’ve been waiting for someone to call me out!😂
Subbed off intro. The p word ha nice. Good stuff man into the same stuff. Loving making stuff and seeing how on pair my work is to the market. Keep it up
Thanks man! I appreciate it, glad you liked it
The 243 actually had the best chance of going through
Possibly, it was a HP though, not FMJ or AP so that’s why I did it first instead of the bigger slower rounds like the 308
Boschman Tactics it doesn’t matter velocity it’s what kills armor and that was a soft point not a hollow point
My bad, soft point
Excellent videos and channel, my friend. One small piece of advice: When choosing the order of which calibers to shoot the armour with, always remember that speed is more important than mass. Therefore, you should actually try firing the shotgun slug first, then the .308, then the .243. Because the .243 is traveling so much faster than a .308 that it is more likely to penetrate. And the 12 GA slug is so much slower that even its large mass will not be enough to defeat the plate. Keep shooting stuff and making cool videos!
Thanks man!
Or you could buy a piece of AR500 IDPA 1/2” steel target. I got 6 of them for my private range in Kamloops BC. They’re like $89 for a chest sized piece, just cut the square head piece off. For competition I actually use a 3A rifle rated ceramic on the front and pistol only for the rear. (I have enough for both sets including carriers but don’t think it’s necessary for competition use to have rifle for front and back. For pistol only events I only have 3A soft for comfort.
Two years ago a gentleman accidentally shot himself in the liver and died. To add insult to injury he had some plates in his trunk 20 yards away in the parking lot. For just a little bit of extra pain, he was a doctor and apparently a really good person. So now I wear protection, mostly to protect myself from my own mistakes.
I actually do use a couple of Caldwell AR500 gongs at my normal range just for high power targets and they work great for stopping bullets that’s for sure. Sounds like you got a pretty sick range you got there!
Boschman Tactics not too bad, but the cattle used to walk through it and stomp everything. So we hung cables 8-10ft up and slide the steel across on quick links with short lengths of cable or chain.
FlexSeal or other snot like that might hold it together well.
How much weight?
Awesome video thank you for the knowledge.good camera work as well.
Thanks man!
I here the same P word all the time. I've always got my body armor, AR, Glock 17, battle belt, flashbang, and spare mags with me.
I don't think the 20ga shrapnel actually punctured the jug. It was the shock of the metal hitting it. Unless you actually had fragments in it but being a large gash it was probably the steel. I'd have put the rubber behind the steel just for your comfort.
Ya I agree with the jug. But the idea of the rubber is to catch any ceramic or bullet shrapnel after initial impact
Got a suggestion code everything and spray and silk hey make it in a gallon can and you can dip it in and make a thick rubber outer coating by doing it more than once make it stick as possible
I googled spray and silk and nothing came up?
My mic don't always work that great what I said was Flex Seal
Ohhh😂 Demo Ranch tried that out and it didn’t work that great, I guess it would just help with keeping everything together though
So weird seeing only bolt guns lol. So use to seeing pistols, Ar's in various calibers, and Ak's. Awesome video though!
Thanks man, appreciate the support!
Crazy Canadian government banning all our guns up here...
@@Liam_Boschman yeah I'm sorry about that. Little do they know bolt weapons are just as deadly as if not more deadly than semiautomatic weapons.
Great video though man !
One at the left over steel?
The ceramic should be encased in layers of fiberglass and resin.
Try this layering (front to back):
-rubber pad.
-6mm mild steel plate.
-ceramic tile (must be plain smooth & not corrugated) vacuum sandwiched in 5layers each front & back fibreglass sheets. Glue with fibreglass resin.
-uhmwpe chopping board.
Then wrap it all up with duct tape, or sew it all in a case of denim.
Reason for the layering sequence is such:
-chopping board initially dampens the speed of the bullet.
-ceramic tile stops the energy of the bullet.
-denim case keeps the ceramic tiles from flaying.
-fibreglass slows down bullet.
-steel plate stops the bullet from penetrating.
-rubber pad protects wearer from injury from spalls and whatever energy is left that deforms the steel plate.
Tried and tested to stop up to 7.62nato & 7.62russian military rounds. Combat tested and proven by guerilla fighters in the Phils. (CAFGU vs NPA commie fighters).
Maybe paint on a Spaulding coating on the steel and flex all rubber foam after the ceramic?
I’m a diesel mechanic by trade so I have lots of crap to weld together and want to shoot, so if your around southern Ontario we could make a fun video or two
Hey man, I’m outta Manitoba. What are you wanting to shoot?
@@Liam_Boschman I have a a couple level 3 ar500 plates coming from Canarmour, maybe we could make a date and do some tests. Work up from .17 hmr up to whatever, it may be worth a road trip your way come spring/summer and we could possibly put a video together. Carrsey52 on Instagram. Cheers
Nice but what is with the dog down range dude
Can you not get body armor in Canada? Either way good video.
Yah you totally can, there are multiple manufacturers that make and sell armor here, it's just expensive and thought I'd try and make my own for a fraction of the price
Aside from going Online shopping?
In Canada, we have a huge selection for options. Which is amazing, but they put a solid price on these things, which is the catch.
However, we also have a ton of Super Stores of all types, that can offer you *the materials* at a reasonable value 👍
Your definitely Protected
Never seen your channel. That into was absolutely brilliant, fucking great work; I’m definitely subscribing.
Thanks man! I’m glad you liked it!
was there a dog in the background of your first shot?
It wasn't shrapnel from the shotgun slug that busted your jug (as the fragments would not be able to curve around the plate to get to the jug behind it but will instead radiate outward parallel to the plate) what busted your jug was the kinetic force from the plate smacking into jug after being hit by the slug , but awesome video bud nonetheless , I would recommend getting some AR500 steel since its tempered much harder than mild steel and wrapping it in layers of fiberglass like from a fiberglass welding blanket and then coating each layer in epoxy the reason is the fiberglass has similar properties to kevlar so when the bullet hits the fiberglass epoxy layers it will be slowed down and deformed for the steel plate to absorb the rest not to mention the fibers will do a much better job of catching the fragmentation , also if your un able to get a hold of AR500 steal try tempering your mild steel plate so as to make it harder
Thanks for the feedback my man!
@@Liam_Boschman thanks for the awesome video and for replying to my comment which I did not expect , you just earned yourself another subscriber keep up the good work my man 👍
Thanks man, have a good one🙌
very cool, thumbs up on the effort!!!
Thanks man!👍
I think that you would see better results on retention of your ceramic layers, if you used two or three layers of hexagonal shaped (square is less useful) 1/4" tiles to prevent the spread of cracking. It would also allow covering your steel plate if you managed to make it curved
I wonder if you can make a custom vest with 3 or 4 pockets on the front for body armor, so you can have multiple layers to ensure the bullet doesn't get through
You earned a subscriber... 308 is way better than that slug... Although close quarters slug would be better
You should adjust your Plate carrier, top of the front plate should be in line with the sternal notch
Smaller tiles stacked like a dragon skin has some integrity I suppose.
No AR? Oh Canada😕
did you shoot while your dog was down range?
The 308 plate was good 👍
Whats in the milk Jug?
Haha, just food colouring and water
@@Liam_Boschman I have your comment settings for some reason, I have your questions comments, I can see comments you haven't responded to, it's weird af
As a paranoid person, I can tell you, only extremely paranoid persons call it "the p-word".
I don't call it the"p-word".
Go to the hdpe2 plastics they float
They will handle the shrapnel (spalling)
And they are structurally solid but they need to be wrapped in resin and fibreglass
Speed is what defeats armor and details matter. 243 would definitely go through if it wasnt soft point. Easily 3k fps, same as standard 223/556. The 303 would be going at least 300fps less than the 243. Since the 7.62x39 was FMJ, it went straight through despite speed likely slower than the 243.
Are you for real shooting while your dog is down range?
Exactly! I was just saying the same thing to myself, I had to rewind it to make sure.
@@unlxads If he hits it extra food! General tso’s is my favorite!
You can buy AR400 steel from Metal Supermarkets in Canada. I bet that would work nicely. Fun video thanks.
Preciate it! Happy Easter
Boschman Tactics Happy Easter to you. Stay safe.
You are supposed to hit the tile first, then the steel.
he did