I was wondering how much it weighed and how thick the steel pieces were And ideas would be actually hardening the steel and using porcelain tiles instead of the weird glassy stuff Oh also would it be a good idea to put some kevlar in between the steel and the ceramics? It wouldn't be laminated because it needs to be flexible but it might still help maybe
You can cut sqaures from a steel oxygen tank bolt them together heat treat it and you have yourself flexible body armor that can take up to several rounds of 7.62. Demolition ranch has a video testing it out with 9mm 5.56 mm and 7.62 it took a high caliber bolt action to punch through at all
Those are glass tiles you need ceramic ! See patches of Kevlar to house each individual armor plate then sew and glue them in and cover them! It will hold up allot better
Lamellar Armor. This might not stop rifle but it could supplement joint areas and locations where rigid rifle armor cannot be added. Brilliant work!! I’d love to see tests measuring BFD and see how much depth into ballistics clay your armor stops a bullet.
Perhaps you could drill holes in the disks the use strong wire or cord of some sort to hold them .ore securely together whilst providing more protection possibly.
@@Liam_Boschman perhaps also hardening the steel as well. Not sure if it was hardened. I wonder weather using plastic discs on top of the metal ones would help at all.
Can you test if a fiberglass blanket over a steel plate will provide enough spall/frag protection and how many layers would be needed to achieve good results?
Hey man, I made something very similar to what you're describing with my Fiberglass Body Armor video (I tossed the link here if you want to check it out!) - ua-cam.com/video/7ie0aTCrpKo/v-deo.html
Cool idea with the discs. It may stop a big round to penetrate, but your body will need to take the impact, and that will hurt. You need to find a way to absorb the impact. Anyway, a small request: can you make a plate made out of: porcelain tile (front), steal plate, about 5 mm and fiberglass mesh with epoxy , the one for construction about 1-1,5 cm (back)? Its super cheap and can be build on a budget. And one plate made only from the mesh ( about 1-1,5 cm), i want to know what it can stop, that if its gonna stop any. With this war extending, i need to start preparing. I can make it to, but i don t have any guns to test it. PS: If by any miracle you are gonna read this and make it, PLEASE skip the .22 s and all small calibers (pistols), its gonna compromise the plate for testing the bigger bullets, i just need to know if its gonna stop 7,62.39, or close!
Trying this form of plate, if I remember I’ll let you know. I’ll use FMJ .223 16” barrel. I’m going to try fiberglass mesh+tile+mild steel+cloth backing And fiberglass mesh+tile+hardened tempered high carbon+cloth And a combination of bare mild, mid, and high carbon steel. Stainless maybe, hard to heat treat.
Good effort but you don't understand ballistics at all. I was a specialist traveling in third world countries civil wars and was supplying a ballistic laminate for plate glass. We tested using up to including c4 and dynamite once we tried all of the military grade munitions. You've got some of the idea right. Ceramic tiles and hardened steel but the idea is to absorb the shock not to resist the projectile. Allowing the projectile to strike shatter and the armor should stretch to retain and transfer the kinetic energy. I've been successful with a dragon scale of thicker metal ceramic squares along with an intermediate layer of plastic all of it was submerged in 2 in of RTV liquid creating three layers and sandwiched between alternating layers of Kevlar cloth. I was successful up to including .223 NATO and .308 but I failed at dragunov rounds .762x54r. yellow tip(heavy ball).
Of course he doesn't understand ballistics: he put ceramic tiles behind the steel. I'm not even sure if ceramic can even be practical with dragonskin. His dragon skin design is also done in such a way that it will skirt rounds right through the rest of the package; you probably shouldn't even bother with dragonskin unless you can get custom-made hardened discs. Also I'm not sure if I read you correctly but did you say your finished result was 2" thick? That's extremely impractical.
.....a $50 plate made of fiberglass blanket + resin would be more effective than this Dragon Armor! At least the Fiberglass plate would easily stop a slug (with less impact trauma as well)....although a .308 will still go through it.
Any other cool body armor ideas you’d like to see me try?
Hexagon ceramic tile pls
Ohh definitely, I’ll try and find some to use!
Maybe attach your scales to a chainmail backing for dragonscale mk4?
I was wondering how much it weighed and how thick the steel pieces were
And ideas would be actually hardening the steel and using porcelain tiles instead of the weird glassy stuff
Oh also would it be a good idea to put some kevlar in between the steel and the ceramics? It wouldn't be laminated because it needs to be flexible but it might still help maybe
Dumb question but is the steel heat treated to AR500 hardness?
You can cut sqaures from a steel oxygen tank bolt them together heat treat it and you have yourself flexible body armor that can take up to several rounds of 7.62. Demolition ranch has a video testing it out with 9mm 5.56 mm and 7.62 it took a high caliber bolt action to punch through at all
Nice video. This is a really genius design. Flexible and strong. Thumbs up for me.
Dude, your channel is definitely underestimsted. Please, don't stop. You'll hit 100k soon😉
Id would weld the discs instead of glue!! Makes it stronger and I hope your using armor discs!!!
Those are glass tiles you need ceramic ! See patches of Kevlar to house each individual armor plate then sew and glue them in and cover them! It will hold up allot better
Man, i love this guy! I haven't been subscribed to him for long, but I'm so glad that I found him!
I appreciate you my man!! I’m glad you’re enjoying the videos!
Well this just popped up, good job. What kind of steel are you using?
Love your steel armor video btw.
The guy never mentioned what he’s using for steel.
Hopefully more details will be known.
Lamellar Armor.
This might not stop rifle but it could supplement joint areas and locations where rigid rifle armor cannot be added.
Brilliant work!!
I’d love to see tests measuring BFD and see how much depth into ballistics clay your armor stops a bullet.
The coooolest video I've seen!
Thanks a lot for your experience!
Thanks man!
i wonder, how much did this all cost?
Prolly enough for stab proof vest , will test out.
Always fun to watch.
.308 is tough to stop.
Thanks man, glad you enjoyed it!
Yeah it sure is tough to stop that round, it hits real hard
8:37 HAHAH leaf got RAKED
You could also put them together then glue them in
Perhaps you could drill holes in the disks the use strong wire or cord of some sort to hold them .ore securely together whilst providing more protection possibly.
Ya man, that definitely crossed my mind - I’m thinking of making another iteration of dragon skin so I may use that strategy to fasten the scales!
@@Liam_Boschman perhaps also hardening the steel as well. Not sure if it was hardened. I wonder weather using plastic discs on top of the metal ones would help at all.
Dude, you’re literally reading my mind - next dragon skin armor will be hardened steel!
Great looking design. Hope to see a Version 4!
Thanks man!
Try to heat treat the discs, it would definitely help stopping the 308
Can you test if a fiberglass blanket over a steel plate will provide enough spall/frag protection and how many layers would be needed to achieve good results?
Hey man, I made something very similar to what you're describing with my Fiberglass Body Armor video (I tossed the link here if you want to check it out!) - ua-cam.com/video/7ie0aTCrpKo/v-deo.html
Could you please try sewing steel circles into some kind of fabric? I think it will hold much better than any type of glue.
That’s happening thanks for ingenuity
Please post in the type of steel for the scales and where you obtained them (1040, 4140, A36, AR500....).
What are the scales made from?
Keep Going Bro ❤
I need one now bro where's it at
Cool idea with the discs.
It may stop a big round to penetrate, but your body will need to take the impact, and that will hurt. You need to find a way to absorb the impact.
Anyway, a small request: can you make a plate made out of: porcelain tile (front), steal plate, about 5 mm and fiberglass mesh with epoxy , the one for construction about 1-1,5 cm (back)? Its super cheap and can be build on a budget. And one plate made only from the mesh ( about 1-1,5 cm), i want to know what it can stop, that if its gonna stop any.
With this war extending, i need to start preparing. I can make it to, but i don t have any guns to test it.
PS: If by any miracle you are gonna read this and make it, PLEASE skip the .22 s and all small calibers (pistols), its gonna compromise the plate for testing the bigger bullets, i just need to know if its gonna stop 7,62.39, or close!
Trying this form of plate, if I remember I’ll let you know.
I’ll use FMJ .223 16” barrel.
I’m going to try fiberglass mesh+tile+mild steel+cloth backing
And fiberglass mesh+tile+hardened tempered high carbon+cloth
And a combination of bare mild, mid, and high carbon steel. Stainless maybe, hard to heat treat.
How many layers of the dragon skin and fiberglass can you stack while maintaining a slim or near slim profile?
There's a reason it's called Three Oh Hate.
HES NOT DEAD!!
No sir, back in the flesh
I have some ideas that could take this to a finished project, would you be interested in speaking privately?
Good effort but you don't understand ballistics at all.
I was a specialist traveling in third world countries civil wars and was supplying a ballistic laminate for plate glass. We tested using up to including c4 and dynamite once we tried all of the military grade munitions. You've got some of the idea right. Ceramic tiles and hardened steel but the idea is to absorb the shock not to resist the projectile. Allowing the projectile to strike shatter and the armor should stretch to retain and transfer the kinetic energy.
I've been successful with a dragon scale of thicker metal ceramic squares along with an intermediate layer of plastic all of it was submerged in 2 in of RTV liquid creating three layers and sandwiched between alternating layers of Kevlar cloth.
I was successful up to including .223 NATO and .308 but I failed at dragunov rounds .762x54r. yellow tip(heavy ball).
Of course he doesn't understand ballistics: he put ceramic tiles behind the steel. I'm not even sure if ceramic can even be practical with dragonskin. His dragon skin design is also done in such a way that it will skirt rounds right through the rest of the package; you probably shouldn't even bother with dragonskin unless you can get custom-made hardened discs.
Also I'm not sure if I read you correctly but did you say your finished result was 2" thick? That's extremely impractical.
.....a $50 plate made of fiberglass blanket + resin would be more effective than this Dragon Armor! At least the Fiberglass plate would easily stop a slug (with less impact trauma as well)....although a .308 will still go through it.
Seal it with counter top epoxy. I know it's supposed to be flexible.
how much does it w8?
I would love to see a home made one rated for AK-47 and ar15 +rifles kick 🦶🦵 azz video...