You have to put the pl down and walk away and never touch it again. You need resin or panel band (I use it to glue car panels on it is super strong and flexible to take the impact of a car accident) resin is cheap but panel bond is expensive. I'll give an explanation as to why from a structural point. Any non adehesive void such as air, water, dirt looses mechanical bond with you surface layers. If your substrate is rippled, spaced pieces or has channels that surface need to be counted as bond lost if it isn't properly adhered. Pl is a low quality glue when it comes to strength and longevity, anything sold to consumers at hardware stores usually are non industrial strength due to VOC content and chemical restrictions and are meant to be used in a person's home. You also loose mechanical bond by not sanding then glue surface of the drum. If you can get rid of your air voids and give more mechanical strength to the bond through sanding or chemical adhesion promoter you will have much better results for the armoury to stay together and give resistance to the bullet. Just my two cents but keep in mind the adhesive when properly done will also help stop the bullet and needs to be an integral part of your panels. Keep up the channel, it's a decent hobby to get into and maybe you will invent a product that will change the body armour industry!!
@@Liam_Boschman i think you should take his advise and also wrap this setup with fiberglass cloth and use epoxy to hold it together. By the way i enjoy your channel.
Laminate your plates with fibreglass and resin you’ll be amazed at how much better it will perform not only will it help solve the spalling problem but from what I’ve seen on other channels will possibly double it’s effective ballistic range I’m thinking possibly 300 rum with a thicker ar500 plate rather than the tin and probably one more layer of plastic
There is a product used in roofing called ice and water shield... It has a super sticky back to it that will stick to pretty much anything.. I think that stuff would make a great spall liner.. you can get a 100x4 foot roll at most home improvement stores... It's meant to replace tar paper on roofs with a low slant..you would probably have to cut out a bunch of squares and stick them together and press them flat.. I noticed other people talking about spall liners... Last time I bought a roll of it it was like $110 not sure how much it cost now
Outer layer should be barrel material then scratch with knife and apply 5200 adhesive between layers of barrel and solid tile, no gaps, then mild steel then glue that, then more layers of barrel. Tile breaks up the bullet, the barrel melts and stops it and metal is secondary stopper. 5200 is super strong. They make Polyurea also but it is expensive and made for the underside of tanks and trucks for bombs. We spray it in fishing boats.
You should have the tiles on the outside of the plastic (first layer). Point of the tiles is to absorb the bullet's energy, deform the bullet, and change its direction; thus you want the plastic to catch the bullet fragments after the tile. The plastic is elastic and traps heated metal fragments, so it's pointless to expect it to catch a bullet that is coming straight out of a barrel. It is interesting how the plastic did save the tiles from the shotshell though. Also, barrels are easy to find and already curved, so this is a smart idea. My other gripe with the tiles is that I think they are too small. Again, the point of the tile is to dissipate force from the bullet, so the tile should be less effective at this if it is smaller. I would prefer a 3" porcelain hexagon tile layout, which you can buy in 12x12" sheets. Realistically, you should be hoping to even stop just one bullet with your plate, there's no need to overthink it and try to stop several of them like in these video tests.
I’d love to see you revisit this idea, but cut up a fiberglass welding blanket, wrap it, and apply the resin. It won’t delaminate as easily, and may slow down that 303. I saw another guy make big gains that way
I’m making some this weekend. My layers are going to be. A few layers of fiberglass blanket with fiberglass resin , thin sheet metal , possibly the tiles you used in this video , then another thin sheet of metal , then topped with fiberglass
The quality and charisma you put into your videos and the things you produce are pretty damn good. I binged a lot of your videos the other day and was expecting subs in the tens of thousands. To see theyre only in the hundreds shocked me honestly. Keep up the work and itll pay off, I can see you taking off. Especially with all this homemade body armour and that signature PL lmao. I'd jus change the music up a lil bit, away from the "traditional" UA-cam royalty free stuff. But thats just me.
You're right his videos are great very well done and put together.. I thought for sure he had tens of thousands subscribers also.. we can all help him by sharing his videos!!!
try it? 1/8" of HDPE heated to liquid state, lay down thick fiberglass cloth to saturate, then 2nd layer cloth at 45 degree angle. repeat same to 5/8" (4 layers double cloth) and another to 3/4" for 5 layers cloth. last part is heat+pressure, is when to impose a curve if wanted. watched several HDPE armor videos today, the stuff tries to mash aside with impact. the fiberglass cloth would "not so fast!" to the stuff mashing aside, with the weave at the 45 degrees making each layer much stronger. after its laid up like that, trimmed rounded and sanded rough (40 grit).. do 2 layers thick fiberglass cloth with epoxy resin front+back. HDPE is really neat the way it behaves, if lammed up like I'm thinking, it'd absorb and spread the impact instead of being pierced. might even stop a double tap, 2 bullets hitting very near the same spot, and it'd be nice light weight too.
Hey man fellow canadian here, love the videos, would you be able to create an effective & practical armour plating with confidence that could stop small caliber’s & rifle rounds, that could be done as a DIY & not too costly. Thanks man, keep up the work.
@@Liam_Boschman Yeah that’s kinda the idea, like if you had to only grab supplies from a Canadian Tire or local hardware store, assuming you already have a decent metal plate already before, how would you create the rest? I remember a video you did awhile back using Horse matt rubber, ceramic tiles, etc, that worked well, go for materials you feel confident behind ya’know, hope you toss the idea around bud! Keep at it.
Two layers of tile, aluminum sheet backing, and half inch of stacked PE sheets. PU is great, but you need to completely coat your sheets on both sides to be glued. Stops 3006. Fast heavy bullets need more hard material to absorb the energy. DIY plates are usually thicker, heavier and still comes with a price. For $80 you can get special threat flexible 3A plate. The DIY is still going to cost about $40 a plate if u do it right. And thick and heavy.
Unlike aramid and Kevlar fabric, ballistic nylon is relatively rare these days, and therefore usually quite expensive. For a similar price you can get new Kevlar/aramid fabric, which is around three times stronger than nylon and much more effective. That's why ballistic nylon is no longer used for armour panels and helmets.
Keep the plastic together and you'll have better results. Someone else testing tiles of HDMWPE from Amazon mentioned that when it's used as actual ballistic plate it seemed to him like it was lots of thin layers, and that (according to whatever his sources are) the idea is for the long polymer molecules to grab and trap the projectile like fabric fibres. You also just might need more layers of plastic; I saw a test on HDPE cutting boards, and while they're less dense it took two 1/2 inch tiles plus a ceramic tile to stop a 7.62x45 round. I predict that a layer of denim-encased ceramic, followed by 1 inch drum plastic, followed by cookie sheet, will stop pistol and intermediate rounds. Dat Enfield doe. Good luck stopping that with less than 1/4 inch steel backing on a composite plate. Keep up the great work!
@@Liam_Boschman Oh, thank YOU for doing the tests! Knowing how to do this in a pinch is good, but I love me some Canadian content even more. It's nice to know that "dollar store" means "Dollarama", it always sucks when "simple home products" are only available in the US.
Hundreds of layers of non woven PE sheets laminated together. The delamination of those layers absorbs energy. Totally different to the thick solid sheets of PE he used here. Professional rifle rated UHMWPE armour doesn't usually require any ceramic or metal plates.
@@another3997 Yes but you can still buy UHMW sheets and use them to absorb fragments alongside tiles and/or a steel sheet. You can see one video on YT where the guy just buys a cutting board and the bullets go straight through as if he didn't think that you actually need something to interdict the bullet first.
Been looking into homemade armour quite a bit lately. Need it here in the 204 yah know? Lmfao Everyones carrying Teas around here cuzn. If youre going for stuff that can hold up. Maybe go back around with that woven fiber glass. Jus need fiber glass reisin and make sure all the layers are fully saturated and compressed. Watching your videos made me think that possibly adding a 1/4" or 1/2" rubber matt to the back of the fiber glass plate and then a plate of 1/4" steel behind that, would make for some serious armour. I feel as if it would stop the .303 with minimal buldging and the rubber catches all the frags so you dont take them to the chin. Somehow incorporate the ceramic tiles inside the fiber glass plate without takin too many layers and I feel like you'd be walkin around like a Juggernaut
@@Liam_Boschman Look at from the other perspective. If the availability of certain types of guns is limited, it means you are also far less likely to be attacked by someone with those types of weapons. In the USA, the sheer number of guns in circulation and the general availability/variety of firearms and ammunition, means you're at risk from handguns, assault rifles, submachine guns, shotguns, hunting rifles or sniper rifles just about anywhere. The annual numbers of firearms injuries and deaths in the USA are pretty grim.
@@another3997 Except this is complete bunk. All these stupid laws have done is target legal firearms owners while creating exponential demand for the street market. Anybody can go buy a handgun on the street in a matter of hours while legal handguns owners now cannot do anything with them except keep them double locked in a safe (seriously, this is the law now). PS: The government does nothing to deal with actual criminals, which is why illegal and prohibited guns are everywhere in the hands of criminals.
id like to see the gaps in tile filled with pl, then wrap it in weld blanket and epoxy, sandwich two of those between tin up front and diamond plate rear, wrap it in fiberglass and epoxy and then put on the 55 gal drum skins on... or will it be too bulky?
4 plastic sheeting, tiles placed differently on each plastic with the metal then wrap it with fiberglass cloth and resin. Then ya might stop a decent rifle round.
Im not sure, I’ve never shot HDPE before, but I would guess that this plastic isn’t as good. Because HDPE armour is made of many many layers atop each other and this was just 2 layers so probably wouldn’t have great stopping power. What do you think?
How much of the plastic does it take to stop a .223 or .308? Maybe try those plastic pieces with fiberglass epoxied in-between each sheet to say, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2" thickness?
You'd need more than two inches of this plastic to stop those. Proper PE armour is made up of hundreds of thin sheets laminated together, and it's the delamination of those sheets that absorbs the energy of the projectile, not just the thickness of the plastic.
Stop the pl use 350 degrees to melt the plastic to the sheets and will probably work better with layers of fiberglass or Kevlar in sides, tile good on outer layer to break rounds.
The important thing is to make sure the two surfaces are bonded together evenly across the whole surface, without any gaps. Unlike his technique of random adhesive application.
making your layers out of plastic and kevlar and or fiberglass might give better results. skip the tile as it breaks down. figure 2 in min for it to stop the rifle. i might back that up with 1/4in steel plate if i was making auto armor. if you need to escape a " mostly peaceful" protest.
It would have to be 1/4 inch hardened steel, as mild steel is too soft and ductile. Unless you use ceramics as well. It would also be heavier than ceramic. I would scrap the plastic drum and put in a couple of dozen or more layers of fibreglass in resin.
@@another3997 so the idea is the plastic slows the round down so the steel plate stops it. ceramic starts to fail on more than 1 hit. if you need to escape a protest you will be taking more than 1 hit. also you want to line your cargo area so your bug out gear doesn't take damage. 30-06 black tip is not common so level 3+ is fine. most handguns will be stopped by the plastic with the steel just stopping the rifle and spall.
The .303 British out of the Lee Enfield is not that massive. The .30-06 is a much larger and faster cartridge, which is why Threat level IV was made; to stop the .30-06 Armor piercing round
I am seeing a trend of a lot of empty/ air space in your armors, filling those voids would definitely help.
Old good silicone or second layer different tiles would help to strenghten it.
You have to put the pl down and walk away and never touch it again. You need resin or panel band (I use it to glue car panels on it is super strong and flexible to take the impact of a car accident) resin is cheap but panel bond is expensive. I'll give an explanation as to why from a structural point. Any non adehesive void such as air, water, dirt looses mechanical bond with you surface layers. If your substrate is rippled, spaced pieces or has channels that surface need to be counted as bond lost if it isn't properly adhered. Pl is a low quality glue when it comes to strength and longevity, anything sold to consumers at hardware stores usually are non industrial strength due to VOC content and chemical restrictions and are meant to be used in a person's home. You also loose mechanical bond by not sanding then glue surface of the drum. If you can get rid of your air voids and give more mechanical strength to the bond through sanding or chemical adhesion promoter you will have much better results for the armoury to stay together and give resistance to the bullet. Just my two cents but keep in mind the adhesive when properly done will also help stop the bullet and needs to be an integral part of your panels. Keep up the channel, it's a decent hobby to get into and maybe you will invent a product that will change the body armour industry!!
Well thanks for the input, I appreciate your passion
@@Liam_Boschman if you live near Edmonton i can hook you up with some panel bonding glues
@@Liam_Boschman i think you should take his advise and also wrap this setup with fiberglass cloth and use epoxy to hold it together. By the way i enjoy your channel.
As borat would say: great success!!!
Yessir!
Laminate your plates with fibreglass and resin you’ll be amazed at how much better it will perform not only will it help solve the spalling problem but from what I’ve seen on other channels will possibly double it’s effective ballistic range I’m thinking possibly 300 rum with a thicker ar500 plate rather than the tin and probably one more layer of plastic
The addition of AR500 steel would make the weight so much heavier you’d be lucky to be able to move.
Tactical Canadian: "the tile will make the plate stronger 10 fold" 🤣
There was obviously a lot of math involved in coming to that conclusion
I am very skilled in the art of mental mathematics
There is a product used in roofing called ice and water shield... It has a super sticky back to it that will stick to pretty much anything.. I think that stuff would make a great spall liner.. you can get a 100x4 foot roll at most home improvement stores... It's meant to replace tar paper on roofs with a low slant..you would probably have to cut out a bunch of squares and stick them together and press them flat.. I noticed other people talking about spall liners... Last time I bought a roll of it it was like $110 not sure how much it cost now
Outer layer should be barrel material then scratch with knife and apply 5200 adhesive between layers of barrel and solid tile, no gaps, then mild steel then glue that, then more layers of barrel. Tile breaks up the bullet, the barrel melts and stops it and metal is secondary stopper. 5200 is super strong. They make Polyurea also but it is expensive and made for the underside of tanks and trucks for bombs. We spray it in fishing boats.
You should have the tiles on the outside of the plastic (first layer). Point of the tiles is to absorb the bullet's energy, deform the bullet, and change its direction; thus you want the plastic to catch the bullet fragments after the tile. The plastic is elastic and traps heated metal fragments, so it's pointless to expect it to catch a bullet that is coming straight out of a barrel. It is interesting how the plastic did save the tiles from the shotshell though. Also, barrels are easy to find and already curved, so this is a smart idea.
My other gripe with the tiles is that I think they are too small. Again, the point of the tile is to dissipate force from the bullet, so the tile should be less effective at this if it is smaller. I would prefer a 3" porcelain hexagon tile layout, which you can buy in 12x12" sheets. Realistically, you should be hoping to even stop just one bullet with your plate, there's no need to overthink it and try to stop several of them like in these video tests.
I’d love to see you revisit this idea, but cut up a fiberglass welding blanket, wrap it, and apply the resin. It won’t delaminate as easily, and may slow down that 303. I saw another guy make big gains that way
That’s a good idea...I was thinking of taking the best pieces from each of my body armor builds and making mutant armor plate
ZNAproductions made something just like this in a video about $30 body armor definitely worth seeing others try making it too.
I’m making some this weekend. My layers are going to be. A few layers of fiberglass blanket with fiberglass resin , thin sheet metal , possibly the tiles you used in this video , then another thin sheet of metal , then topped with fiberglass
Sounds great man, good luck!
What if you used some carpet on the one side to try and stop shrapnel? That 303. Definitely threw some shards
Ya definitely...something to contain the shrapnel would be a good idea
Nice vid
Thanks man!
The quality and charisma you put into your videos and the things you produce are pretty damn good. I binged a lot of your videos the other day and was expecting subs in the tens of thousands.
To see theyre only in the hundreds shocked me honestly. Keep up the work and itll pay off, I can see you taking off.
Especially with all this homemade body armour and that signature PL lmao.
I'd jus change the music up a lil bit, away from the "traditional" UA-cam royalty free stuff. But thats just me.
Thanks a lot for the support! I’m glad you’re enjoying my content! 🇨🇦
You're right his videos are great very well done and put together.. I thought for sure he had tens of thousands subscribers also.. we can all help him by sharing his videos!!!
Thanks man!! I preciate it!!
Feel free to share the channel with friends and family to help us hit 1000
try it? 1/8" of HDPE heated to liquid state, lay down thick fiberglass cloth to saturate, then 2nd layer cloth at 45 degree angle. repeat same to 5/8" (4 layers double cloth) and another to 3/4" for 5 layers cloth. last part is heat+pressure, is when to impose a curve if wanted.
watched several HDPE armor videos today, the stuff tries to mash aside with impact. the fiberglass cloth would "not so fast!" to the stuff mashing aside, with the weave at the 45 degrees making each layer much stronger. after its laid up like that, trimmed rounded and sanded rough (40 grit).. do 2 layers thick fiberglass cloth with epoxy resin front+back.
HDPE is really neat the way it behaves, if lammed up like I'm thinking, it'd absorb and spread the impact instead of being pierced. might even stop a double tap, 2 bullets hitting very near the same spot, and it'd be nice light weight too.
Take a look at the "tech this out meow" channel, if you haven't already. Combining your techniques with some of his might work real well.
Hey man fellow canadian here, love the videos, would you be able to create an effective & practical armour plating with confidence that could stop small caliber’s & rifle rounds, that could be done as a DIY & not too costly.
Thanks man, keep up the work.
Thanks man! Like more of a budget armor? Or what were you thinking?
@@Liam_Boschman Yeah that’s kinda the idea, like if you had to only grab supplies from a Canadian Tire or local hardware store, assuming you already have a decent metal plate already before, how would you create the rest?
I remember a video you did awhile back using Horse matt rubber, ceramic tiles, etc, that worked well, go for materials you feel confident behind ya’know, hope you toss the idea around bud! Keep at it.
Two layers of tile, aluminum sheet backing, and half inch of stacked PE sheets. PU is great, but you need to completely coat your sheets on both sides to be glued. Stops 3006. Fast heavy bullets need more hard material to absorb the energy. DIY plates are usually thicker, heavier and still comes with a price. For $80 you can get special threat flexible 3A plate. The DIY is still going to cost about $40 a plate if u do it right. And thick and heavy.
I think you souks try adding some ballistic nylon and some rubber mat material . The plastic was a great idea.
Ya that sounds like a good idea
Unlike aramid and Kevlar fabric, ballistic nylon is relatively rare these days, and therefore usually quite expensive. For a similar price you can get new Kevlar/aramid fabric, which is around three times stronger than nylon and much more effective. That's why ballistic nylon is no longer used for armour panels and helmets.
Subfloor and drywall glue are super strong glues. Good choice in glue.
Merci beaucoup
Keep the plastic together and you'll have better results. Someone else testing tiles of HDMWPE from Amazon mentioned that when it's used as actual ballistic plate it seemed to him like it was lots of thin layers, and that (according to whatever his sources are) the idea is for the long polymer molecules to grab and trap the projectile like fabric fibres. You also just might need more layers of plastic; I saw a test on HDPE cutting boards, and while they're less dense it took two 1/2 inch tiles plus a ceramic tile to stop a 7.62x45 round. I predict that a layer of denim-encased ceramic, followed by 1 inch drum plastic, followed by cookie sheet, will stop pistol and intermediate rounds.
Dat Enfield doe. Good luck stopping that with less than 1/4 inch steel backing on a composite plate. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for the suggestions man!!
@@Liam_Boschman Oh, thank YOU for doing the tests! Knowing how to do this in a pinch is good, but I love me some Canadian content even more. It's nice to know that "dollar store" means "Dollarama", it always sucks when "simple home products" are only available in the US.
Hundreds of layers of non woven PE sheets laminated together. The delamination of those layers absorbs energy. Totally different to the thick solid sheets of PE he used here. Professional rifle rated UHMWPE armour doesn't usually require any ceramic or metal plates.
@@another3997 Yes but you can still buy UHMW sheets and use them to absorb fragments alongside tiles and/or a steel sheet. You can see one video on YT where the guy just buys a cutting board and the bullets go straight through as if he didn't think that you actually need something to interdict the bullet first.
Been looking into homemade armour quite a bit lately.
Need it here in the 204 yah know? Lmfao
Everyones carrying Teas around here cuzn.
If youre going for stuff that can hold up.
Maybe go back around with that woven fiber glass.
Jus need fiber glass reisin and make sure all the layers are fully saturated and compressed.
Watching your videos made me think that possibly adding a 1/4" or 1/2" rubber matt to the back of the fiber glass plate and then a plate of 1/4" steel behind that, would make for some serious armour.
I feel as if it would stop the .303 with minimal buldging and the rubber catches all the frags so you dont take them to the chin. Somehow incorporate the ceramic tiles inside the fiber glass plate without takin too many layers and I feel like you'd be walkin around like a Juggernaut
Thanks for the suggestions, sounds like combining some of my already existing styles should be the next move in the DIY Body Armor journey!
Well it did pretty good. I believe it would stop handgun. I know you guys are kind of restricted when it comes to pistols.
Yessir we are...unfortunately
@@Liam_Boschman Look at from the other perspective. If the availability of certain types of guns is limited, it means you are also far less likely to be attacked by someone with those types of weapons. In the USA, the sheer number of guns in circulation and the general availability/variety of firearms and ammunition, means you're at risk from handguns, assault rifles, submachine guns, shotguns, hunting rifles or sniper rifles just about anywhere. The annual numbers of firearms injuries and deaths in the USA are pretty grim.
@@another3997 Except this is complete bunk. All these stupid laws have done is target legal firearms owners while creating exponential demand for the street market. Anybody can go buy a handgun on the street in a matter of hours while legal handguns owners now cannot do anything with them except keep them double locked in a safe (seriously, this is the law now). PS: The government does nothing to deal with actual criminals, which is why illegal and prohibited guns are everywhere in the hands of criminals.
.303 is no joke. I’m in no hurry to hide behind anything lighter then a engine block or three with that kind of power headed my way.
Haha...couldn’t agree more!
Had .303 ricochets embed themselves in trees.
Hi dear it really good success from how many metres ranges you s
id like to see the gaps in tile filled with pl, then wrap it in weld blanket and epoxy, sandwich two of those between tin up front and diamond plate rear, wrap it in fiberglass and epoxy and then put on the 55 gal drum skins on...
or will it be too bulky?
10 mins and a 2x4 to make a plate holder would be nice. This way, you can shoot multiple rounds without the plate hitting the ground.
4 plastic sheeting, tiles placed differently on each plastic with the metal then wrap it with fiberglass cloth and resin. Then ya might stop a decent rifle round.
I saw a Lee Enfield and I clicked.
😂love it man
Maybe give actual ceramic tiles a try next time .
☝
How many of these drum plates ( HMWPE ) will it take to stop a 9mm from shot from a pistol ?
Hmm I’m not sure…unfortunately I don’t have a 9mm to test
@@Liam_Boschman How does this drum material compare to HDPE ? When it comes to stopping and slowing down bullets ?
Im not sure, I’ve never shot HDPE before, but I would guess that this plastic isn’t as good. Because HDPE armour is made of many many layers atop each other and this was just 2 layers so probably wouldn’t have great stopping power. What do you think?
@@Liam_Boschman I guess HDPE is more effective.
How much of the plastic does it take to stop a .223 or .308? Maybe try those plastic pieces with fiberglass epoxied in-between each sheet to say, 1-1/4 to 1-1/2" thickness?
You'd need more than two inches of this plastic to stop those. Proper PE armour is made up of hundreds of thin sheets laminated together, and it's the delamination of those sheets that absorbs the energy of the projectile, not just the thickness of the plastic.
@@another3997 Still worth a try though. Even a thick plate that weights half that of steel or ceramic would be well worth it.
What if you went layer by layer but instead of the construction adhesive you used 2-part Epoxy?
Ya I’m sure that would be stronger, pl is my budget adhesive. If I wanted to get expensive with it, 2-part epoxy would by the way to go
Stop the pl use 350 degrees to melt the plastic to the sheets and will probably work better with layers of fiberglass or Kevlar in sides, tile good on outer layer to break rounds.
The important thing is to make sure the two surfaces are bonded together evenly across the whole surface, without any gaps. Unlike his technique of random adhesive application.
making your layers out of plastic and kevlar and or fiberglass might give better results. skip the tile as it breaks down. figure 2 in min for it to stop the rifle. i might back that up with 1/4in steel plate if i was making auto armor. if you need to escape a " mostly peaceful" protest.
It would have to be 1/4 inch hardened steel, as mild steel is too soft and ductile. Unless you use ceramics as well. It would also be heavier than ceramic. I would scrap the plastic drum and put in a couple of dozen or more layers of fibreglass in resin.
@@another3997 so the idea is the plastic slows the round down so the steel plate stops it. ceramic starts to fail on more than 1 hit. if you need to escape a protest you will be taking more than 1 hit. also you want to line your cargo area so your bug out gear doesn't take damage. 30-06 black tip is not common so level 3+ is fine. most handguns will be stopped by the plastic with the steel just stopping the rifle and spall.
The .303 British out of the Lee Enfield is not that massive. The .30-06 is a much larger and faster cartridge, which is why Threat level IV was made; to stop the .30-06 Armor piercing round
Hi! Number of this plastic? Please
Is it legal to have body armor in Canada?
Shhhh it is not body armor but play plastic for airsoft games wink wink 😉
It depends on which province you are in. Some allow anyone to possess it, others require that you beg the Crown for permission.
Uhmwpe plates arent made of solid thermoplastic. Theyre made with layers of thermoplastic fibers which have a high tensile strength
Without "U"
PL will not adhere to the HDPE those blue barrels are made of
That intro was cancer. That music was cancer. Please, don't do that again.