We came across this video and couldnt help but laugh. Leave it to the professionals guys.... We use milling machined to do this, needs to be perfect!!!
For all the DIY haters, I did this myself and if you get the right router bit you won't go over the needed bore. Pay attention that's "if", see the emphasis? If you get right bit as in measure the width, depth of the wheel and the bit. They fit snug, they're not jumping around... so yeah, saved my self almost 200 dollars as the local shop wanted 150 just to turn the machine on and 100 more to take the tires off my wheels...
exactly do what you can bro he got it done it doesnt have to be perfect just needs to FIT you can add some extra torque if your worried about the wheels after , i got my wheels loaded up gonna see if the pros can do it. if its too expensive il buy the router and DIY
Do you even know how a router works? it rides on a bearing against the inside edge of the wheel bore. and only cuts a specific amount and depth set by the tool. This is 110% accurate. You act like he was just making a circle freehand.
Funny thing is that there are wheels that you have to center on the lug bolts. Not everything is centered on the hub. So as long as he had clearance and its balanced, the wheel can be put on and centered via lugbolts. This does work and ive done it!!
Most all cars are lug centric these days I think. You can have hub centric, but if you have lug centric lugs it doesn't matter. The plastic rings for centering the hub are only to hold it until the lugs are installed, they aren't functional.
I used an engine cylinder hone with an electric drill to enlarge my steel rims center holes by 3 mm. It pretty much guarantees that the hole will be round. I used the coarse grinding stones (about 100 grit) and you can only use the top of the stone then flip them around. Soak the stones in oil before using. You'll need 3 sets for steel wheels. The first set is just to get used to the chaos until you get the hang of grinding as the hone will drop through and fly out - dramatic but not too dangerous. I use one set of stones for 2 rims.
I've been thinking about doing the very same way on my aluminum wheels since I only have to shave 0.5 mm on each one, but I'm afraid some material to get stuck on the stones (same way it does when grinding aluminum with a bench) and end up making a mess, so get them machined still sounds like more accurate and appropriate for aluminum wheels.
I respect that. If you can't pay what shops ask to do easy for big money then I can respect DIYers... some ppl hate even on ppl who can't afford things
as I commented on the last video like this, I'm sure I could take a set of wheels to my local machine shop and have them turned no more then needed for probably less then he spent on just that bit.. let alone the router also. not just everyone has one just setting around. Also, I'm looking at the "base" steelies. Still 17" but one made to run a hubcap. I live that clean "stock" look of the steelie. Just a 17 not 14
Try telling that to my local shop that want 150$ to cnc my wheels. For less than that I can buy the router and the bit and have left over cash... some ppl could use saving a couple bucks. If you can afford it good for you
You dont need them to be perfect. Lol wheels have always existed that are lug centered. Just balance it after and make sure you know how to center a wheel.
This wheel design has a raised diameter face on either side of the stud holes, the person with the router increased the bore diameter a full inch and effectively removed that inner raised face. The lug nuts now no longer clamp the wheel to the rotor as per the manufacturer's original design, there is now a bending moment applied to the center section of the wheel and the real possibility of fatigue failure and or the inability of the lugnuts staying properly torqued. Why on earth did he do such a huge over-bore?
@@startingtech3900 He milled out 12.5 mm not! 2mm ( 0:14 dimension D is the cut depth) he also milled off the inner clamping face so now the inner part of the wheel does not properly sit against the rotor face (there will be a small gap) the center part of the wheel will now be being bent under the clamping force of the lug nuts.
@@startingtech3900 0:22 thats a step not a line, or it was a step till it was milled off, that step and the one on the other side the bolt circle are the two faces that mate up with the rotor face.
For all the DIY haters, I did this myself and if you get the right router bit you won't go over the needed bore. Pay attention that's "if", see the emphasis? If you get right bit as in measure the width, depth of the wheel and the bit. They fit snug, they're not jumping around... so yeah, saved my self almost 200 dollars as the local shop wanted 150 just to turn the machine on and 100 more to take the tires off my wheels...
exactly do what you can bro he got it done it doesnt have to be perfect just needs to FIT you can add some extra torque if your worried about the wheels after , i got my wheels loaded up gonna see if the pros can do it. if its too expensive il buy the router and DIY
Worked for me fine.
this is probably more accurate than most local shops would do even with the proper equipment
Do you even know how a router works? it rides on a bearing against the inside edge of the wheel bore. and only cuts a specific amount and depth set by the tool. This is 110% accurate. You act like he was just making a circle freehand.
Funny thing is that there are wheels that you have to center on the lug bolts. Not everything is centered on the hub. So as long as he had clearance and its balanced, the wheel can be put on and centered via lugbolts. This does work and ive done it!!
Most all cars are lug centric these days I think. You can have hub centric, but if you have lug centric lugs it doesn't matter. The plastic rings for centering the hub are only to hold it until the lugs are installed, they aren't functional.
A mill with a turntable works excellently, a more gradual cut can be precisely made
I used an engine cylinder hone with an electric drill to enlarge my steel rims center holes by 3 mm. It pretty much guarantees that the hole will be round. I used the coarse grinding stones (about 100 grit) and you can only use the top of the stone then flip them around. Soak the stones in oil before using. You'll need 3 sets for steel wheels. The first set is just to get used to the chaos until you get the hang of grinding as the hone will drop through and fly out - dramatic but not too dangerous. I use one set of stones for 2 rims.
I've been thinking about doing the very same way on my aluminum wheels since I only have to shave 0.5 mm on each one, but I'm afraid some material to get stuck on the stones (same way it does when grinding aluminum with a bench) and end up making a mess, so get them machined still sounds like more accurate and appropriate for aluminum wheels.
So from the beginning you always go clockwise not counterclockwise. So way wrong.
Hell ya bro,can't go wrong with the shoxxx,been rocking them hos since the 7 grade,34 now,probly addicted IDK
He got it done though, maybe he lives in a rural area? Who knows? He did what he did with what he had.
I respect that. If you can't pay what shops ask to do easy for big money then I can respect DIYers... some ppl hate even on ppl who can't afford things
as I commented on the last video like this, I'm sure I could take a set of wheels to my local machine shop and have them turned no more then needed for probably less then he spent on just that bit.. let alone the router also. not just everyone has one just setting around. Also, I'm looking at the "base" steelies. Still 17" but one made to run a hubcap. I live that clean "stock" look of the steelie. Just a 17 not 14
I guess it's just because some people suffers the "DIY" syndrome. They forget that some stuff requires accuracy and precision. Hands down.
Try telling that to my local shop that want 150$ to cnc my wheels. For less than that I can buy the router and the bit and have left over cash... some ppl could use saving a couple bucks. If you can afford it good for you
You dont need them to be perfect. Lol wheels have always existed that are lug centered. Just balance it after and make sure you know how to center a wheel.
Machine shop want 100 a wheel
Ok, so what bit I would need to go from 57. VW to 66.1 MB?
What type of bit you use to bored them?
what the hell is youtube recommending This to me for?
Mi doowy,eet worky priddy goo..grossyoss por toto.
You are taking a ridiculous amount off on one pass. Learn to use different size bearings and take a little off on each pass😢
Shit I used a grinder before. What ever works
😂 I'm glad it worked out for you. That sounds tough.
how much would you charge to do this Professionally
Damian Quintanilla $25 a wheel at my shop.
Was talking to the guy that uploaded this video
This is not professional lol
@@sandaddicted83 Wheres your shop?
Allen Coleman yes he is. Read the description
This wheel design has a raised diameter face on either side of the stud holes, the person with the router increased the bore diameter a full inch and effectively removed that inner raised face. The lug nuts now no longer clamp the wheel to the rotor as per the manufacturer's original design, there is now a bending moment applied to the center section of the wheel and the real possibility of fatigue failure and or the inability of the lugnuts staying properly torqued. Why on earth did he do such a huge over-bore?
agreed, I still say just take the wheels to a local machine shop. Cost isn't that much. like seriously. wheels and brakes are no joking matter
that was not a full inch he took off maybe 2mm and it will still have plenty of clamping force. what are you going on about geezer?
@@startingtech3900 He milled out 12.5 mm not! 2mm ( 0:14 dimension D is the cut depth) he also milled off the inner clamping face so now the inner part of the wheel does not properly sit against the rotor face (there will be a small gap) the center part of the wheel will now be being bent under the clamping force of the lug nuts.
@@startingtech3900 0:22 thats a step not a line, or it was a step till it was milled off, that step and the one on the other side the bolt circle are the two faces that mate up with the rotor face.
Wtf that’s not even a aluminum wheel danm foo