milanmastracci, I just finished watching an older video on cleaning rubber floor mats. WHAT I NEED TO KNOW IS ... How to clean mold off of rubber floor mats permanently. Can you create a video on this? Thank you.
This was super clear and useful without a lot of nonsense or fluff. Thank you very much for sharing. I believe I can now make informed decisions on how to proceed with my big brake, suspension and wheel upgrades.
What a wonderful video, no lies, nothing but great and accurate information. None of this "This is your Boy" BS, No stupid music that last and last, no of this was brought by this company and that company. I hope you get all the view you deserve! Triple
interesting analysis on slip on and bolt on spacers. You actually made me hit pause on my decisions as I now have to revisit and reevaluate which of the two is most efficient option for my F150 STX. Spacers seem to be the easier and cheaper option than offset rims for an older model truck. Not really feeling put $3K work of rims and tires on 12 year old truck
@@milanmastracci Yeah, I've read actually a day or two ago that if use spacers that your spring rate, although, technically stays the same, the spring rate to the wheels get reduced, I.E. say like if in the rear, your springs get softer in the rear, and also u increase wear on your wheel bearings, even though your looks improve on the car.
I believe youre talented, your good reasoning and rationales. One thing about your “cheap spacers.” Just because one is less expensive and cheaper, it does not mean it sucks. There are cheap alloy spacers that undergone T-6 Treatment.......makes them stronger.
Yeah, the ones on Bonoss's website are listed at $100-300 dollars for just two of them. I have a Saturn SL2 DOHC, with lots of modification that has H&R sort springs , GYB GR2 struts and a polyurethane master bushing kit including both dogbone engine mounts and i'm wanting to push my rear wheels out at least an inch so the rear wheels are flush with the fenders like the front ones are. I have the stock sawbade wheels and plan to keep them and get them powder coated back to the new aluminum alloy finish like it was from the factory to cosmetically make the car look better, without spending thousands one wheels and tires. I eventually want to get Enkei RPF1 15X7's though to lose about 4 Lbs of rotating mass or unsprung weight down the road and do the Subaru WRX racetech coilover mod that several people have done with the Saturn because the aftermarket industry never supported these cars and were Saturn racist, even though they were a rocketship at 2290 LBS (mine with the Seibon carbon fiber hood and no spare tire, don't ask, I lost it somehow...lol).
Excellent video, thanks. Just another point to remember is to use the same design of the OEM bolt head when fitting the aftermarket extended bolts, ie don’t mix radius with tapered.
Thanks for the great info! I recently bought a car and the owner had put 4x4.0” wheels on a car that is 4x100. At high speeds it would shake badly. I just ordered new wheels and an adapter. It’s difficult to find 12” 4x100 wheels!
Great video. I lowered my 2019 Mazda3 and decided to go with the slip on spacers and extended studs for simplicity and safety. Yes installing extended studs cost me an hour and a half of my life that I’ll never get back, but something about bolt on spacers always freak me out.
@@charlieboy3321 They were perfect for 3 years. Definitely worth the extra effort of replacing the studs. And honestly the studs are very simple to replace (you might have to remove the rear wheel hubs in order to get the clearance to install the extended studs though). I only did 12mm (.5 in) spacers and an inch drop in ride height all around so it looked clean and not too over the top. I would 100% do it. Quick tidbit, I sold the Mazda and bought a 2014 BMW 328d Sports Wagon (yay) but before I sold the Mazda I brought everything back to stock and it converts right back with no issues. If your car requires you to remove the rear hub to install the extended studs, don’t forget to use anti-seize on the hub bolts when you reinstall them. I had quite the battle taking those bolts out after 3 years 😂
Dude - I really enjoy the videos you make. They are very well filmed and also extremely informative. Keep doing them please! My question to you when you get around to it ... debunk the WD40 headlight fix miracle I am seeing all over youtube. Does WD40 clear out yellowed headlights?
My cars has been tracked for 5+ years with bolt on billet aluminum spacers with 0 issues lol. Of course you're preaching what people should do with 0 track experience.
The thicker the spacers, the more wear your wheel bearings will have. Yes, you can get away with it for awhile, but that growling noise will tell you that the bearings need to be changed.
Adding spacers can accelerate your wheel bearing wear, so keep that in mind. By increasing the offset of the wheel, you place more stress on the axle's studs, and in a front axle application on the unit bearings (or spindles) and ball joints of the axle. You also increase the tire scrub radius, changing the way the vehicle handles and increasing the difficulty of slow-speed turning.
First off want to say what a great informative video that cleared up my confusion on adapters vs spacers .Personally I only need a 12 mm(1/2”) spacer to clear my new calipers .. my question is concerning my ride quality and handling going forward… with a updated wheel alignment would I see changes / issues with cornering and handling performance … thanks
My wheels fix in with bolts. When I mount bolt on spaces the bolt head slightly interferes with the wheel mounting pad on aftermarket wheels. Stock wheel sit flush on it cause they have plenty of space in between the mounting pad pattern. Lucky the aftermarket wheels didn't need the spacer as much as the stock ones did.
Good video. However, a couple of points. The PCD isn't the outside diameter of the studs, it runs through the centre of the studs. You say both :-) Not sure how having a groove on the mating surface improves grip by reducing the contact area. An explanation would be helpful.
Awesome video , how do you feel about retorquing the spacer because everytime I get tires put on at a dealership they always recommend coming in for retouque
Just put 1.5 inch wheel spacers on my Nissan frontier and they rub the inner fender when turning sharp with only stock wheels and tires. Now I have to fix that.
Great stuff man!!! Best explanation by far! What would you recommend for an 04 GX 470. Not lifted, No off roading. Just going for an more aggressive stance with a wider foot print. Thanks
Great video!! Very informative! Clarification so I understand correctly.. so if I just need 8mm spacers I would need extended studs? I’ve seen other videos where they just slip-on the spacers less than 10mm.
All comes down to how many threads you have with the stock studs. Once the stud is broken loose, count the number of turns and multiply the pitch ((1.25 or 1.5). Then minus the 8 mm and see if you have enough threads left
Would u have to do an alignment after installing spacers? I've heard it wears the tires faster, and puts extra load on the suspension and makes the car hard to steer? Thoughts
You don't need to do an alignment afterwards. It doesn't put more wear on the tires, it does slightly put more load on the suspension, and over so slightly does cause the steering to be a bit harder, however it would be no different than putting aftermarket wheels and tires on the car. I wouldn't worry in the slightest given what I mentioned. I would buy spacers again 👍
Have you ever heard of a mechanic putting loctite on your lug nuts? If you torque them to spec, there is no need what so ever. I've been using slip-on and bolt-on spacers for years with ZERO failures.
Great tutorial! Usually, after you torque the wheels you are required to re-torque them after driving them for 15-25 miles. Is there a need to re-torque the bolt-on spacers the same way? If so, that would entail removing the wheel and then having to re-torque the wheel after the spacer re-torque.
Love the video only thing confusing me is the twork concept? How many turns you have to do on each nuds.. Also you have to trim the studs on the bolt on spacer to the exact length of the studs on the car?
What about the added stress on Bearing components? The larger the offset not compensated for in the original design the more stress you will put on your bearings, if you now go and put bigger wheels on or add weight to the rotating mass it would be even worse??
The difference in running a spacer, will be like the difference between carrying an extra person in your car or not. It will theoretically create more stress, but it isn't harmful enough to cause excessive wear.
I’m thinking of ordering a set of 5mm hubcentric spacers, but it doesn’t have a lip to complement the larger bore of an aftermarket wheel. Would you suggest using the spacer and adding on hubcentric rings as well?
Hey, so I installed new coilovers and now I need wheel spacers. After measuring it looks like I could go with 20mm spacers. But I think going with 10 or 12.5 mm spacers (or very max 15 mm) is the safer option, because I don't want my wheels to rub on the body. Do you think it will still make the car look better or should I really go with 20mm?
When I was looking for the exact same spacer you installed on your Civic on your video, the Bonoss website did not bring up any spacer for 2012 Civic Si. Which exact one did you install? Can you share the link? Also in the video you installed the 20mm while in the description FAQ section you mentioned you installed the 15mm. Was the 20mm too wide and was rubbing? Thank you!
Are they safe for wheel bearings though? Can they cause increased wear on the bearing due to the weight of the car being held further away from the hub where it was designed to be?
That's one of the first questions in my FAQ. Wheel spacers are just as safe as aftermarket wheels. I have aftermarket wheels with more aggressive specs than stock on all of my cars, and haven't had to replace the wheel bearings 👍
As much as needed, as little as necessary. Ideally you'll want to go to a max of 1.5", as the larger the spacer, the more stress it puts on your factory studs. For most applications, 1" is usually more than enough.
@@milanmastracci actually-I've been watching since you started the Mini a long time ago-when I had one (RIP R56) You've probably saved me a full 24hrs of reading through the years. So, thanks again. ✌️
It depends. I usually go with as wide of a spacer as needed, but not fat enough to push the wheels out past the fenders. If you can keep your overall wheel offset to stay in the positive values, it will prevent the bearings from experiencing too much stress.
Fantastic walkthrough! Was actually only looking for how to measure the desired thickness but learned basically everything else. :D What size spacer do you go with when the "3 oclock and 9 oclock" of the tire are essentially flush but the "12 oclock" needs up to 15mm to flush up?
Can I get a like for the dirt on my face? 🐛
hello adam lz! oh wait youre milmast 🤣
Dude it's to long of a video. U can do the same and get more views with a 7 min video
milanmastracci,
I just finished watching an older video on cleaning rubber floor mats. WHAT I NEED TO KNOW IS ... How to clean mold off of rubber floor mats permanently. Can you create a video on this? Thank you.
This will work if the idiots at bonoss would answer their email about buying this product .....
I have 6 girl friends. Ok. And they cook
This is a SOLID video. Really well put together and thoroughly explained. Thanks for sharing this great content.
This was super clear and useful without a lot of nonsense or fluff. Thank you very much for sharing. I believe I can now make informed decisions on how to proceed with my big brake, suspension and wheel upgrades.
What a wonderful video, no lies, nothing but great and accurate information. None of this "This is your Boy" BS, No stupid music that last and last, no of this was brought by this company and that company. I hope you get all the view you deserve! Triple
My guy here does an incredible job explaining everything in detail about what you need to know about spacers.
This is perhaps the most comprehensive video I’ve seen on spacers.
Dude that had to of been the best instruction video I have seen I really found it very professional clear and thorough keep em coming
Really digging your content and realizing your from Ontario makes it even better.. good shit bro! Keep it up!
Your the greatest man!! Detailed and informative 👌
I appreciate that! Thank you! 👊
Without any doubt the best video I’ve seen on wheel spacers. I know now what I need and how to install them. Thank you for your time.
Glad to help! Cheers Andy
interesting analysis on slip on and bolt on spacers. You actually made me hit pause on my decisions as I now have to revisit and reevaluate which of the two is most efficient option for my F150 STX. Spacers seem to be the easier and cheaper option than offset rims for an older model truck. Not really feeling put $3K work of rims and tires on 12 year old truck
I'm going to send my spacers with studs back now and buy longer studs seems that's the proper way till I buy new wheels
The hub centric ones are the best of course, great video!!!
Yes they are!
@@milanmastracci Yeah, I've read actually a day or two ago that if use spacers that your spring rate, although, technically stays the same, the spring rate to the wheels get reduced, I.E. say like if in the rear, your springs get softer in the rear, and also u increase wear on your wheel bearings, even though your looks improve on the car.
I believe youre talented, your good reasoning and rationales. One thing about your “cheap spacers.”
Just because one is less expensive and cheaper, it does not mean it sucks.
There are cheap alloy spacers that undergone T-6 Treatment.......makes them stronger.
Yeah, the ones on Bonoss's website are listed at $100-300 dollars for just two of them. I have a Saturn SL2 DOHC, with lots of modification that has H&R sort springs , GYB GR2 struts and a polyurethane master bushing kit including both dogbone engine mounts and i'm wanting to push my rear wheels out at least an inch so the rear wheels are flush with the fenders like the front ones are. I have the stock sawbade wheels and plan to keep them and get them powder coated back to the new aluminum alloy finish like it was from the factory to cosmetically make the car look better, without spending thousands one wheels and tires. I eventually want to get Enkei RPF1 15X7's though to lose about 4 Lbs of rotating mass or unsprung weight down the road and do the Subaru WRX racetech coilover mod that several people have done with the Saturn because the aftermarket industry never supported these cars and were Saturn racist, even though they were a rocketship at 2290 LBS (mine with the Seibon carbon fiber hood and no spare tire, don't ask, I lost it somehow...lol).
Excellent video, thanks. Just another point to remember is to use the same design of the OEM bolt head when fitting the aftermarket extended bolts, ie don’t mix radius with tapered.
One of the BEST video ever, very professional, informative and good quality of audio and video :) Rock guyz
Thank you! I appreciate the kind words ☺️
First video I see on the channel and its awesome. Very well explained!!!
100% solid video, answered all my questions. Appreciate the hard work and info!
Glad to help!
Thanks for the great info! I recently bought a car and the owner had put 4x4.0” wheels on a car that is 4x100. At high speeds it would shake badly. I just ordered new wheels and an adapter. It’s difficult to find 12” 4x100 wheels!
Great video. I lowered my 2019 Mazda3 and decided to go with the slip on spacers and extended studs for simplicity and safety. Yes installing extended studs cost me an hour and a half of my life that I’ll never get back, but something about bolt on spacers always freak me out.
Have you had any issues with them so far? I plan on putting some on my 2015 Mazda 6
@@charlieboy3321 They were perfect for 3 years. Definitely worth the extra effort of replacing the studs. And honestly the studs are very simple to replace (you might have to remove the rear wheel hubs in order to get the clearance to install the extended studs though). I only did 12mm (.5 in) spacers and an inch drop in ride height all around so it looked clean and not too over the top. I would 100% do it.
Quick tidbit, I sold the Mazda and bought a 2014 BMW 328d Sports Wagon (yay) but before I sold the Mazda I brought everything back to stock and it converts right back with no issues. If your car requires you to remove the rear hub to install the extended studs, don’t forget to use anti-seize on the hub bolts when you reinstall them. I had quite the battle taking those bolts out after 3 years 😂
Dude - I really enjoy the videos you make. They are very well filmed and also extremely informative. Keep doing them please! My question to you when you get around to it ... debunk the WD40 headlight fix miracle I am seeing all over youtube. Does WD40 clear out yellowed headlights?
Great info. Thank you! NO BS. Just info! Great Job!
Loved this video. Solid content and engaging presenting style.
Great review; professional and thorough. Thank you very much!
yes bro
One of the best explanations about wheel spacers , thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you 😊
Great presentation. Research scrub radius and the effect of too much offset on scrub and wheel bearings.
Best video and explanation ever about spacers
I loved your last video about putting wheel spacers on your Nissan! Now I can learn even more! Keep up the fantastic vids!!👍
Happy to hear that Ziggy!! Thank you 🙌
My cars has been tracked for 5+ years with bolt on billet aluminum spacers with 0 issues lol. Of course you're preaching what people should do with 0 track experience.
The thicker the spacers, the more wear your wheel bearings will have. Yes, you can get away with it for awhile, but that growling noise will tell you that the bearings need to be changed.
Adding spacers can accelerate your wheel bearing wear, so keep that in mind. By increasing the offset of the wheel, you place more stress on the axle's studs, and in a front axle application on the unit bearings (or spindles) and ball joints of the axle. You also increase the tire scrub radius, changing the way the vehicle handles and increasing the difficulty of slow-speed turning.
Loving those RSX Type-S wheels!!!!!
For a minute you looked like Adam LZ 😆
Lol facts
@@dreyusalexander718 😆
Frrrr
First off want to say what a great informative video that cleared up my confusion on adapters vs spacers .Personally I only need a 12 mm(1/2”) spacer to clear my new calipers .. my question is concerning my ride quality and handling going forward… with a updated wheel alignment would I see changes / issues with cornering and handling performance … thanks
most informative car channel i have come across thankyou
Best video on spacers. Very detailed.
Glad you liked it!
Haven’t watched your videos in a while. But the mustache is looking good👍👍👍
i missed this guy so much...
absolutely clear explanation. thank you very much. you are a nice instructor.
Glad it was helpful!
Dude awesome content and very well explained you covered everything great I’m happy to say I’m confident in doing this soon thanks a million
this helped me alot. Will absolutely be buying the BONOSS bolt ons. Thanks for the review and info.
Don’t know how I’m just finding your channel, this video was legit
delivered as promised! I wanted to know and you provided, thanks. I have an RX350 Lexus that I am looking for spacers specifically for the rear
Should probably add that you wanna inspect/re-torque the lug nuts in a week or 100 miles
Thank you, learned so much!! I’ll keep you updated to what I do!
Nice video 👍🏼👌 for me H&R are my go to always for spacers 👍🏼👌
Well explained, thank you.
Fantastic video…really well explained, good level of technical detail but skilful presented, so still easy to understand. Well done!!
👏👏👏
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great, and well explained video. Thank you
Good info as I’m in the market for some spacers for my Mazda. Thanks
Glad to help!
My wheels fix in with bolts. When I mount bolt on spaces the bolt head slightly interferes with the wheel mounting pad on aftermarket wheels. Stock wheel sit flush on it cause they have plenty of space in between the mounting pad pattern. Lucky the aftermarket wheels didn't need the spacer as much as the stock ones did.
Informative, my old 911 has 2 inch front and 3 inch back spacers.
Very informative and in depth! Awesome video bro 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Glad you liked it!
Follow the spacer manufactures torque specs for your spacer. They may be different then your factory torque specs.
Great video! Slip-on spacers brought to you by wheel bolt gang 😎😎
Great video, I have been looking for a good video talking about wheel spacers.
Glad you enjoyed! Be sure to share it 👍
Excellent and informative video 👍. What brand are the spacers?
That was an amazing schooling. Thank you very much 🙏🏽
Good video. However, a couple of points. The PCD isn't the outside diameter of the studs, it runs through the centre of the studs. You say both :-) Not sure how having a groove on the mating surface improves grip by reducing the contact area. An explanation would be helpful.
Awesome video , how do you feel about retorquing the spacer because everytime I get tires put on at a dealership they always recommend coming in for retouque
Just put 1.5 inch wheel spacers on my Nissan frontier and they rub the inner fender when turning sharp with only stock wheels and tires. Now I have to fix that.
Great stuff man!!! Best explanation by far! What would you recommend for an 04 GX 470. Not lifted, No off roading. Just going for an more aggressive stance with a wider foot print. Thanks
Are those bonoss bolt on spacers safe for long dustances?
Solid info. Wish I found this sooner!
amazing video, thanks for making this. certainly has shed some light for me!!!
Great video!! Very informative!
Clarification so I understand correctly.. so if I just need 8mm spacers I would need extended studs?
I’ve seen other videos where they just slip-on the spacers less than 10mm.
All comes down to how many threads you have with the stock studs. Once the stud is broken loose, count the number of turns and multiply the pitch ((1.25 or 1.5). Then minus the 8 mm and see if you have enough threads left
Excellent, we'll detailed video not wasting time just getting to the point of details
Very informative. Well done. Thank you very much.
Homie, your video was super informative and helpful for what I’m trying to do on my daily driver 2012 civic. Thanks man 👍
Glad it helped Victor! 👊
Would u have to do an alignment after installing spacers? I've heard it wears the tires faster, and puts extra load on the suspension and makes the car hard to steer? Thoughts
You don't need to do an alignment afterwards. It doesn't put more wear on the tires, it does slightly put more load on the suspension, and over so slightly does cause the steering to be a bit harder, however it would be no different than putting aftermarket wheels and tires on the car. I wouldn't worry in the slightest given what I mentioned. I would buy spacers again 👍
@@milanmastracci ohh awesome thanks
Are forged aluminum spacers okay? what does forged billet mean?
I’m putting spacers on my Jeep and was wondering why you didn’t use locktite on the threads? Everyone is telling me to use it.
Have you ever heard of a mechanic putting loctite on your lug nuts?
If you torque them to spec, there is no need what so ever. I've been using slip-on and bolt-on spacers for years with ZERO failures.
My spacers just came in today ! I needed this video ! ....are you watching me ?
Ahaha I knew it 😂
Great review. Thanks for your knowledge.
Thanks Kevin! I appreciate it
Great tutorial! Usually, after you torque the wheels you are required to re-torque them after driving them for 15-25 miles. Is there a need to re-torque the bolt-on spacers the same way? If so, that would entail removing the wheel and then having to re-torque the wheel after the spacer re-torque.
Yo awesome video. I FINALLY understand
Love the video only thing confusing me is the twork concept? How many turns you have to do on each nuds..
Also you have to trim the studs on the bolt on spacer to the exact length of the studs on the car?
What about the added stress on Bearing components? The larger the offset not compensated for in the original design the more stress you will put on your bearings, if you now go and put bigger wheels on or add weight to the rotating mass it would be even worse??
The difference in running a spacer, will be like the difference between carrying an extra person in your car or not. It will theoretically create more stress, but it isn't harmful enough to cause excessive wear.
can't you use the slip on spacers with longer than stock wheel lug bolts?
Thank you for a such a detailed and informative video..
You're very welcome!
I’m thinking of ordering a set of 5mm hubcentric spacers, but it doesn’t have a lip to complement the larger bore of an aftermarket wheel. Would you suggest using the spacer and adding on hubcentric rings as well?
Thank you for this interesting and very informative video. Greetings from Baden near Vienna, Austria.
really great video. thank you!
Hey, so I installed new coilovers and now I need wheel spacers. After measuring it looks like I could go with 20mm spacers. But I think going with 10 or 12.5 mm spacers (or very max 15 mm) is the safer option, because I don't want my wheels to rub on the body. Do you think it will still make the car look better or should I really go with 20mm?
When I was looking for the exact same spacer you installed on your Civic on your video, the Bonoss website did not bring up any spacer for 2012 Civic Si. Which exact one did you install? Can you share the link? Also in the video you installed the 20mm while in the description FAQ section you mentioned you installed the 15mm. Was the 20mm too wide and was rubbing? Thank you!
Bro! Amazing video! Thank you so much!
Are they safe for wheel bearings though? Can they cause increased wear on the bearing due to the weight of the car being held further away from the hub where it was designed to be?
That's one of the first questions in my FAQ. Wheel spacers are just as safe as aftermarket wheels. I have aftermarket wheels with more aggressive specs than stock on all of my cars, and haven't had to replace the wheel bearings 👍
@@milanmastracci aw nuts, I didn't see that!! I'm not used to finding descriptions with ACTUAL useful info. Thanks much my man
For sure man! I spend a good amount of time with that extra info down there 👍
what is the limit when it comes to the wider space?
As much as needed, as little as necessary. Ideally you'll want to go to a max of 1.5", as the larger the spacer, the more stress it puts on your factory studs. For most applications, 1" is usually more than enough.
Great video. Very informative. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Adding a 1/2 spacer, with out the hub centric is ok? In the old days, most wheels were loose until you tightened the lug bolts carefully.
why's everyone on that Adam LZ look 😂
Kinda tempted, tho I tried that longer ago
it's just a cut bro, LZ didn't start that shit lol
@@adamzav4042 it's just a joke, bro
Unlike
Awesome vid brah 👍👌
How did these hold up. Looking at this exact set
Complete information, very useful for safety. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Saved me so much reading... Whew. Thanks
Glad it helped!
@@milanmastracci actually-I've been watching since you started the Mini a long time ago-when I had one (RIP R56)
You've probably saved me a full 24hrs of reading through the years. So, thanks again. ✌️
Excellent video Milan and very informative.....how wide can you go before you start stressing your wheel hubs and bearings ????
It depends. I usually go with as wide of a spacer as needed, but not fat enough to push the wheels out past the fenders. If you can keep your overall wheel offset to stay in the positive values, it will prevent the bearings from experiencing too much stress.
@@milanmastracci thank you Milan !!!!!
does the wheel spacer affects your tire life if it's the correct size?
Not what so ever.
Fantastic walkthrough! Was actually only looking for how to measure the desired thickness but learned basically everything else. :D What size spacer do you go with when the "3 oclock and 9 oclock" of the tire are essentially flush but the "12 oclock" needs up to 15mm to flush up?
Great video! TY. Would using thread locker on the lugs be advisable?
Ontario Club!! shoutout from Ottawa!
Woohoo 🇨🇦
What a well-done video.
Good job. Thank you. 👍🏻