milanmastracci, I just finished watching an older video on cleaning rubber floor mats. WHAT I NEED TO KNOW IS ... How to clean mold off of rubber floor mats permanently. Can you create a video on this? Thank you.
This was super clear and useful without a lot of nonsense or fluff. Thank you very much for sharing. I believe I can now make informed decisions on how to proceed with my big brake, suspension and wheel upgrades.
What a wonderful video, no lies, nothing but great and accurate information. None of this "This is your Boy" BS, No stupid music that last and last, no of this was brought by this company and that company. I hope you get all the view you deserve! Triple
I believe youre talented, your good reasoning and rationales. One thing about your “cheap spacers.” Just because one is less expensive and cheaper, it does not mean it sucks. There are cheap alloy spacers that undergone T-6 Treatment.......makes them stronger.
Yeah, the ones on Bonoss's website are listed at $100-300 dollars for just two of them. I have a Saturn SL2 DOHC, with lots of modification that has H&R sort springs , GYB GR2 struts and a polyurethane master bushing kit including both dogbone engine mounts and i'm wanting to push my rear wheels out at least an inch so the rear wheels are flush with the fenders like the front ones are. I have the stock sawbade wheels and plan to keep them and get them powder coated back to the new aluminum alloy finish like it was from the factory to cosmetically make the car look better, without spending thousands one wheels and tires. I eventually want to get Enkei RPF1 15X7's though to lose about 4 Lbs of rotating mass or unsprung weight down the road and do the Subaru WRX racetech coilover mod that several people have done with the Saturn because the aftermarket industry never supported these cars and were Saturn racist, even though they were a rocketship at 2290 LBS (mine with the Seibon carbon fiber hood and no spare tire, don't ask, I lost it somehow...lol).
interesting analysis on slip on and bolt on spacers. You actually made me hit pause on my decisions as I now have to revisit and reevaluate which of the two is most efficient option for my F150 STX. Spacers seem to be the easier and cheaper option than offset rims for an older model truck. Not really feeling put $3K work of rims and tires on 12 year old truck
Thanks for the great info! I recently bought a car and the owner had put 4x4.0” wheels on a car that is 4x100. At high speeds it would shake badly. I just ordered new wheels and an adapter. It’s difficult to find 12” 4x100 wheels!
Excellent video, thanks. Just another point to remember is to use the same design of the OEM bolt head when fitting the aftermarket extended bolts, ie don’t mix radius with tapered.
Dude - I really enjoy the videos you make. They are very well filmed and also extremely informative. Keep doing them please! My question to you when you get around to it ... debunk the WD40 headlight fix miracle I am seeing all over youtube. Does WD40 clear out yellowed headlights?
First off want to say what a great informative video that cleared up my confusion on adapters vs spacers .Personally I only need a 12 mm(1/2”) spacer to clear my new calipers .. my question is concerning my ride quality and handling going forward… with a updated wheel alignment would I see changes / issues with cornering and handling performance … thanks
Adding spacers can accelerate your wheel bearing wear, so keep that in mind. By increasing the offset of the wheel, you place more stress on the axle's studs, and in a front axle application on the unit bearings (or spindles) and ball joints of the axle. You also increase the tire scrub radius, changing the way the vehicle handles and increasing the difficulty of slow-speed turning.
My wheels fix in with bolts. When I mount bolt on spaces the bolt head slightly interferes with the wheel mounting pad on aftermarket wheels. Stock wheel sit flush on it cause they have plenty of space in between the mounting pad pattern. Lucky the aftermarket wheels didn't need the spacer as much as the stock ones did.
Great video. I lowered my 2019 Mazda3 and decided to go with the slip on spacers and extended studs for simplicity and safety. Yes installing extended studs cost me an hour and a half of my life that I’ll never get back, but something about bolt on spacers always freak me out.
@@charlieboy3321 They were perfect for 3 years. Definitely worth the extra effort of replacing the studs. And honestly the studs are very simple to replace (you might have to remove the rear wheel hubs in order to get the clearance to install the extended studs though). I only did 12mm (.5 in) spacers and an inch drop in ride height all around so it looked clean and not too over the top. I would 100% do it. Quick tidbit, I sold the Mazda and bought a 2014 BMW 328d Sports Wagon (yay) but before I sold the Mazda I brought everything back to stock and it converts right back with no issues. If your car requires you to remove the rear hub to install the extended studs, don’t forget to use anti-seize on the hub bolts when you reinstall them. I had quite the battle taking those bolts out after 3 years 😂
Good video. However, a couple of points. The PCD isn't the outside diameter of the studs, it runs through the centre of the studs. You say both :-) Not sure how having a groove on the mating surface improves grip by reducing the contact area. An explanation would be helpful.
One thing you didn't mention - wheel spacers can also be used to convert to different wheels. For example, my Jeep has factory 5x4.5" spacing. The spacers allowed for newer 5x5" spaced wheels.
Just put 1.5 inch wheel spacers on my Nissan frontier and they rub the inner fender when turning sharp with only stock wheels and tires. Now I have to fix that.
Great tutorial! Usually, after you torque the wheels you are required to re-torque them after driving them for 15-25 miles. Is there a need to re-torque the bolt-on spacers the same way? If so, that would entail removing the wheel and then having to re-torque the wheel after the spacer re-torque.
Great stuff man!!! Best explanation by far! What would you recommend for an 04 GX 470. Not lifted, No off roading. Just going for an more aggressive stance with a wider foot print. Thanks
My cars has been tracked for 5+ years with bolt on billet aluminum spacers with 0 issues lol. Of course you're preaching what people should do with 0 track experience.
The thicker the spacers, the more wear your wheel bearings will have. Yes, you can get away with it for awhile, but that growling noise will tell you that the bearings need to be changed.
@@milanmastracci Yeah, I've read actually a day or two ago that if use spacers that your spring rate, although, technically stays the same, the spring rate to the wheels get reduced, I.E. say like if in the rear, your springs get softer in the rear, and also u increase wear on your wheel bearings, even though your looks improve on the car.
Great video!! Very informative! Clarification so I understand correctly.. so if I just need 8mm spacers I would need extended studs? I’ve seen other videos where they just slip-on the spacers less than 10mm.
All comes down to how many threads you have with the stock studs. Once the stud is broken loose, count the number of turns and multiply the pitch ((1.25 or 1.5). Then minus the 8 mm and see if you have enough threads left
I have them on my 1988 jeep and they get used in hard environment. I needed to change the bolt pattern for a modern set of rims. Dont be surprised if local car shops will not work on your car if you have wheel spacers. No need for a impact wrench as they need torqued in steps and recheck torque after driving.
I have them on my challenger and I have had wheel spacers on many many vehicles and they don’t really hurt anything if they aren’t more than 1.5 inches maybe 2 at the most
Love the video only thing confusing me is the twork concept? How many turns you have to do on each nuds.. Also you have to trim the studs on the bolt on spacer to the exact length of the studs on the car?
I’m thinking of ordering a set of 5mm hubcentric spacers, but it doesn’t have a lip to complement the larger bore of an aftermarket wheel. Would you suggest using the spacer and adding on hubcentric rings as well?
Fantastic walkthrough! Was actually only looking for how to measure the desired thickness but learned basically everything else. :D What size spacer do you go with when the "3 oclock and 9 oclock" of the tire are essentially flush but the "12 oclock" needs up to 15mm to flush up?
Hey, so I installed new coilovers and now I need wheel spacers. After measuring it looks like I could go with 20mm spacers. But I think going with 10 or 12.5 mm spacers (or very max 15 mm) is the safer option, because I don't want my wheels to rub on the body. Do you think it will still make the car look better or should I really go with 20mm?
Best video yet in my option :) watched quite a few before I cut my stock studs down to be able to mount the wheel adapter ( to change bolt pattern to fit rims on our 2009 Tahoe . Guy sold me new 2018 Colorado rims and that’s 6x120 and I needed 6x5.5) . So I’m going to make sure I have enough lug nut rotations prior to cutting all 24 of them 😝 thanks again ! Sadly this great deal on 200.00 rims has turned out to be a hurdle each time I jack it up 😂 I also learned that I have the shiny non anodized spacers but it does have 12.9 studs. So I should clean sand and spray rustoleum on it? Any suggestions? I’m in hawaii so got it new in 2009 and we still have less than 90k miles.
Have you ever heard of a mechanic putting loctite on your lug nuts? If you torque them to spec, there is no need what so ever. I've been using slip-on and bolt-on spacers for years with ZERO failures.
I shoupd have watched this before I putchased my wheel spacers from Premier Auto Acc/ebay. The are 25mm hub centric 6061 T6 aluminum, but now am nervous to put them on.
Very informative and all-encompassing video! You talked about potentially having to shave down your studs. How do you know if your spacers will clear your factory studs without taking me wheels off and measuring the length sticking out? My wheels have additional holes as it fits multiple bolt patterns, but I'm not sure if those other holes would be where the factory studs stick out after I bolt the wheel to the spacer. Thanks!
That is indeed where the extra material would go. The stock studs on the front of my civic would poke through the spacer, into that cavity of the wheel. Since every car is different, to play it safe, you would have to measure how much stud you have, minus how thick of a spacer you want to mount, and then see if the cavities for the wheels are large enough for the extra stud. Hope that makes sense!
When I was looking for the exact same spacer you installed on your Civic on your video, the Bonoss website did not bring up any spacer for 2012 Civic Si. Which exact one did you install? Can you share the link? Also in the video you installed the 20mm while in the description FAQ section you mentioned you installed the 15mm. Was the 20mm too wide and was rubbing? Thank you!
Super informative and in depth ! My only question is, is it safe to run slip on with stock studs if I’m still getting the required safe recommended rotation of the lug nut ?
Would u have to do an alignment after installing spacers? I've heard it wears the tires faster, and puts extra load on the suspension and makes the car hard to steer? Thoughts
You don't need to do an alignment afterwards. It doesn't put more wear on the tires, it does slightly put more load on the suspension, and over so slightly does cause the steering to be a bit harder, however it would be no different than putting aftermarket wheels and tires on the car. I wouldn't worry in the slightest given what I mentioned. I would buy spacers again 👍
I just need something to put space between the brakes on my Challenger to be able to use a steel wheel Spare wheel I put together. The car has 20" mags...I made up a spare the same ride height from a 17" rim and a 245 / 65/ 17 tire but- when I put it on it rubs something...Can I use a slip on spacer? Glad I saw this video cause I almost bought the one with studs...I don't need it.
What about the added stress on Bearing components? The larger the offset not compensated for in the original design the more stress you will put on your bearings, if you now go and put bigger wheels on or add weight to the rotating mass it would be even worse??
The difference in running a spacer, will be like the difference between carrying an extra person in your car or not. It will theoretically create more stress, but it isn't harmful enough to cause excessive wear.
Great video! This is information. I ha e a question. I saw that they had 2 different model numbers for the g37 coupes. BONOSS Forged AL7075-T6 Active Cooling 5×114.3 Hubcentric Wheel Spacers for Infiniti G37, BONOSS Forged AL6061-T6 Active Cooling Hubcentric 5×114.3 Wheel Spacers for Infiniti G37 I'm trying to figure out which one to get. Thank you.
What about a wheel spacer with a reduced center hub..? I have a sweet set of VW wheels that are too small for my Mercedes. Same bolt pattern (5x112), but smaller center bore. My Benz is 66.6mm, I believe, and the VW’s are 57mm..
It depends. I usually go with as wide of a spacer as needed, but not fat enough to push the wheels out past the fenders. If you can keep your overall wheel offset to stay in the positive values, it will prevent the bearings from experiencing too much stress.
Hey g ... I went the extended stud (ARP) and custom made by local shop 1 inch spacers (solid) no slots for my corvette c5 due to the wheels I’m ruining and since my car makes 420 lbs torque to the wheels I didn’t wanted to cheap out on anything for it .
Quick question here: Is it a problem if the total surface diameter of the spacer is smaller than the central diameter of the hub and wheel, even though the other characteristics match perfectly?
What you said may be true for vehicles from Japan and Asia but cars from Europe are different VW/Audi for instance he wheel hub might have a chamfer at the base of the hub and the corresponding spacer must have a chamfer on it's mating surface so the spacer sits flush sometimes this poses a problem because those type of spacers have a chamfer on the wheel side too and IF your aftermarket wheels don't have a deep enough chamfer the wheel won't sit flush to the spacer...research this before going out and buying any spacer, most "tuner shops" will not take back spacers if they've just been "test fitted". Another thing the smaller (thinner) slip on spacers are not hub AND wheel centric they are only hub centric so if you use those use proper torquing procedures there comes a point of no return IMO when using the thin ones is it worth it?
Can I rely solely on Bonoss giving me the correct parts for the job? Like: I preferred 15mm front and 25mm rear from Bonoss for a Genesis GV70. They all are bolt on and is it ok to use a dab of never seize on the hub? And use blue loctite on the bolts of the spacer after it’s TQ to 84ft lbs? Then put the wheel in and TQ to the manuals spec? Or skip the loctite and drive it for 100miles and take the wheels off and check TQ of the spacers since it a new mating ? Someone mentioned to buy new rim lug nuts as it’ll look ugly now but not sure why if using stock hardware?
This was the best video I have watched as I consider adding spacers to my 2019 Passat Wolfsburg Edition. The inset of the wheels is the only thing I don’t like about the appearance of my VW.
Most vehicles with thier factory wheels can get away with 15-20mm bolt on spacers without a problem. I would measure your specific car just to double check 👍
What about a vehicle that would see mild off-roading such as a 4Matic? Is that safe to use the thicker spacers? you mentioned The Track but didn't hit on off-road/rally :)
Great info. Question is. Owned a 2017 Mercedes Benz CLA 250. Planning on putting some wheel spacers on it. 15mm at the back and 10mm up front. Do you have any idea what the hub bore size should be for the spacers, don’t want any vibration down the road. Thanks
Can I get a like for the dirt on my face? 🐛
hello adam lz! oh wait youre milmast 🤣
Dude it's to long of a video. U can do the same and get more views with a 7 min video
milanmastracci,
I just finished watching an older video on cleaning rubber floor mats. WHAT I NEED TO KNOW IS ... How to clean mold off of rubber floor mats permanently. Can you create a video on this? Thank you.
This will work if the idiots at bonoss would answer their email about buying this product .....
I have 6 girl friends. Ok. And they cook
This is a SOLID video. Really well put together and thoroughly explained. Thanks for sharing this great content.
My guy here does an incredible job explaining everything in detail about what you need to know about spacers.
This was super clear and useful without a lot of nonsense or fluff. Thank you very much for sharing. I believe I can now make informed decisions on how to proceed with my big brake, suspension and wheel upgrades.
This is perhaps the most comprehensive video I’ve seen on spacers.
Dude that had to of been the best instruction video I have seen I really found it very professional clear and thorough keep em coming
What a wonderful video, no lies, nothing but great and accurate information. None of this "This is your Boy" BS, No stupid music that last and last, no of this was brought by this company and that company. I hope you get all the view you deserve! Triple
I believe youre talented, your good reasoning and rationales. One thing about your “cheap spacers.”
Just because one is less expensive and cheaper, it does not mean it sucks.
There are cheap alloy spacers that undergone T-6 Treatment.......makes them stronger.
Yeah, the ones on Bonoss's website are listed at $100-300 dollars for just two of them. I have a Saturn SL2 DOHC, with lots of modification that has H&R sort springs , GYB GR2 struts and a polyurethane master bushing kit including both dogbone engine mounts and i'm wanting to push my rear wheels out at least an inch so the rear wheels are flush with the fenders like the front ones are. I have the stock sawbade wheels and plan to keep them and get them powder coated back to the new aluminum alloy finish like it was from the factory to cosmetically make the car look better, without spending thousands one wheels and tires. I eventually want to get Enkei RPF1 15X7's though to lose about 4 Lbs of rotating mass or unsprung weight down the road and do the Subaru WRX racetech coilover mod that several people have done with the Saturn because the aftermarket industry never supported these cars and were Saturn racist, even though they were a rocketship at 2290 LBS (mine with the Seibon carbon fiber hood and no spare tire, don't ask, I lost it somehow...lol).
interesting analysis on slip on and bolt on spacers. You actually made me hit pause on my decisions as I now have to revisit and reevaluate which of the two is most efficient option for my F150 STX. Spacers seem to be the easier and cheaper option than offset rims for an older model truck. Not really feeling put $3K work of rims and tires on 12 year old truck
I'm going to send my spacers with studs back now and buy longer studs seems that's the proper way till I buy new wheels
Thanks for the great info! I recently bought a car and the owner had put 4x4.0” wheels on a car that is 4x100. At high speeds it would shake badly. I just ordered new wheels and an adapter. It’s difficult to find 12” 4x100 wheels!
Excellent video, thanks. Just another point to remember is to use the same design of the OEM bolt head when fitting the aftermarket extended bolts, ie don’t mix radius with tapered.
Dude - I really enjoy the videos you make. They are very well filmed and also extremely informative. Keep doing them please! My question to you when you get around to it ... debunk the WD40 headlight fix miracle I am seeing all over youtube. Does WD40 clear out yellowed headlights?
For a minute you looked like Adam LZ 😆
Lol facts
@@dreyusalexander718 😆
Frrrr
Really digging your content and realizing your from Ontario makes it even better.. good shit bro! Keep it up!
First off want to say what a great informative video that cleared up my confusion on adapters vs spacers .Personally I only need a 12 mm(1/2”) spacer to clear my new calipers .. my question is concerning my ride quality and handling going forward… with a updated wheel alignment would I see changes / issues with cornering and handling performance … thanks
Adding spacers can accelerate your wheel bearing wear, so keep that in mind. By increasing the offset of the wheel, you place more stress on the axle's studs, and in a front axle application on the unit bearings (or spindles) and ball joints of the axle. You also increase the tire scrub radius, changing the way the vehicle handles and increasing the difficulty of slow-speed turning.
Your the greatest man!! Detailed and informative 👌
I appreciate that! Thank you! 👊
Should probably add that you wanna inspect/re-torque the lug nuts in a week or 100 miles
Without any doubt the best video I’ve seen on wheel spacers. I know now what I need and how to install them. Thank you for your time.
Glad to help! Cheers Andy
My wheels fix in with bolts. When I mount bolt on spaces the bolt head slightly interferes with the wheel mounting pad on aftermarket wheels. Stock wheel sit flush on it cause they have plenty of space in between the mounting pad pattern. Lucky the aftermarket wheels didn't need the spacer as much as the stock ones did.
Great video. I lowered my 2019 Mazda3 and decided to go with the slip on spacers and extended studs for simplicity and safety. Yes installing extended studs cost me an hour and a half of my life that I’ll never get back, but something about bolt on spacers always freak me out.
Have you had any issues with them so far? I plan on putting some on my 2015 Mazda 6
@@charlieboy3321 They were perfect for 3 years. Definitely worth the extra effort of replacing the studs. And honestly the studs are very simple to replace (you might have to remove the rear wheel hubs in order to get the clearance to install the extended studs though). I only did 12mm (.5 in) spacers and an inch drop in ride height all around so it looked clean and not too over the top. I would 100% do it.
Quick tidbit, I sold the Mazda and bought a 2014 BMW 328d Sports Wagon (yay) but before I sold the Mazda I brought everything back to stock and it converts right back with no issues. If your car requires you to remove the rear hub to install the extended studs, don’t forget to use anti-seize on the hub bolts when you reinstall them. I had quite the battle taking those bolts out after 3 years 😂
i missed this guy so much...
Great presentation. Research scrub radius and the effect of too much offset on scrub and wheel bearings.
Good video. However, a couple of points. The PCD isn't the outside diameter of the studs, it runs through the centre of the studs. You say both :-) Not sure how having a groove on the mating surface improves grip by reducing the contact area. An explanation would be helpful.
One thing you didn't mention - wheel spacers can also be used to convert to different wheels. For example, my Jeep has factory 5x4.5" spacing. The spacers allowed for newer 5x5" spaced wheels.
First video I see on the channel and its awesome. Very well explained!!!
100% solid video, answered all my questions. Appreciate the hard work and info!
Glad to help!
One of the BEST video ever, very professional, informative and good quality of audio and video :) Rock guyz
Thank you! I appreciate the kind words ☺️
Just put 1.5 inch wheel spacers on my Nissan frontier and they rub the inner fender when turning sharp with only stock wheels and tires. Now I have to fix that.
One of the best explanations about wheel spacers , thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you 😊
Great tutorial! Usually, after you torque the wheels you are required to re-torque them after driving them for 15-25 miles. Is there a need to re-torque the bolt-on spacers the same way? If so, that would entail removing the wheel and then having to re-torque the wheel after the spacer re-torque.
Great stuff man!!! Best explanation by far! What would you recommend for an 04 GX 470. Not lifted, No off roading. Just going for an more aggressive stance with a wider foot print. Thanks
Follow the spacer manufactures torque specs for your spacer. They may be different then your factory torque specs.
My cars has been tracked for 5+ years with bolt on billet aluminum spacers with 0 issues lol. Of course you're preaching what people should do with 0 track experience.
The thicker the spacers, the more wear your wheel bearings will have. Yes, you can get away with it for awhile, but that growling noise will tell you that the bearings need to be changed.
The hub centric ones are the best of course, great video!!!
Yes they are!
@@milanmastracci Yeah, I've read actually a day or two ago that if use spacers that your spring rate, although, technically stays the same, the spring rate to the wheels get reduced, I.E. say like if in the rear, your springs get softer in the rear, and also u increase wear on your wheel bearings, even though your looks improve on the car.
delivered as promised! I wanted to know and you provided, thanks. I have an RX350 Lexus that I am looking for spacers specifically for the rear
Great video!! Very informative!
Clarification so I understand correctly.. so if I just need 8mm spacers I would need extended studs?
I’ve seen other videos where they just slip-on the spacers less than 10mm.
All comes down to how many threads you have with the stock studs. Once the stud is broken loose, count the number of turns and multiply the pitch ((1.25 or 1.5). Then minus the 8 mm and see if you have enough threads left
Great review; professional and thorough. Thank you very much!
yes bro
Adding a 1/2 spacer, with out the hub centric is ok? In the old days, most wheels were loose until you tightened the lug bolts carefully.
Loved this video. Solid content and engaging presenting style.
Great info. Thank you! NO BS. Just info! Great Job!
I have them on my 1988 jeep and they get used in hard environment. I needed to change the bolt pattern for a modern set of rims. Dont be surprised if local car shops will not work on your car if you have wheel spacers. No need for a impact wrench as they need torqued in steps and recheck torque after driving.
I loved your last video about putting wheel spacers on your Nissan! Now I can learn even more! Keep up the fantastic vids!!👍
Happy to hear that Ziggy!! Thank you 🙌
I have them on my challenger and I have had wheel spacers on many many vehicles and they don’t really hurt anything if they aren’t more than 1.5 inches maybe 2 at the most
Love the video only thing confusing me is the twork concept? How many turns you have to do on each nuds..
Also you have to trim the studs on the bolt on spacer to the exact length of the studs on the car?
I’m thinking of ordering a set of 5mm hubcentric spacers, but it doesn’t have a lip to complement the larger bore of an aftermarket wheel. Would you suggest using the spacer and adding on hubcentric rings as well?
Dude awesome content and very well explained you covered everything great I’m happy to say I’m confident in doing this soon thanks a million
Fantastic walkthrough! Was actually only looking for how to measure the desired thickness but learned basically everything else. :D What size spacer do you go with when the "3 oclock and 9 oclock" of the tire are essentially flush but the "12 oclock" needs up to 15mm to flush up?
Hey, so I installed new coilovers and now I need wheel spacers. After measuring it looks like I could go with 20mm spacers. But I think going with 10 or 12.5 mm spacers (or very max 15 mm) is the safer option, because I don't want my wheels to rub on the body. Do you think it will still make the car look better or should I really go with 20mm?
this helped me alot. Will absolutely be buying the BONOSS bolt ons. Thanks for the review and info.
Don’t know how I’m just finding your channel, this video was legit
Fantastic video…really well explained, good level of technical detail but skilful presented, so still easy to understand. Well done!!
👏👏👏
Glad you enjoyed it!
Best video yet in my option :) watched quite a few before I cut my stock studs down to be able to mount the wheel adapter ( to change bolt pattern to fit rims on our 2009 Tahoe . Guy sold me new 2018 Colorado rims and that’s 6x120 and I needed 6x5.5) . So I’m going to make sure I have enough lug nut rotations prior to cutting all 24 of them 😝 thanks again ! Sadly this great deal on 200.00 rims has turned out to be a hurdle each time I jack it up 😂 I also learned that I have the shiny non anodized spacers but it does have 12.9 studs. So I should clean sand and spray rustoleum on it? Any suggestions? I’m in hawaii so got it new in 2009 and we still have less than 90k miles.
I’m putting spacers on my Jeep and was wondering why you didn’t use locktite on the threads? Everyone is telling me to use it.
Have you ever heard of a mechanic putting loctite on your lug nuts?
If you torque them to spec, there is no need what so ever. I've been using slip-on and bolt-on spacers for years with ZERO failures.
most informative car channel i have come across thankyou
I shoupd have watched this before I putchased my wheel spacers from Premier Auto Acc/ebay. The are 25mm hub centric 6061 T6 aluminum, but now am nervous to put them on.
Excellent and informative video 👍. What brand are the spacers?
Very informative and all-encompassing video! You talked about potentially having to shave down your studs. How do you know if your spacers will clear your factory studs without taking me wheels off and measuring the length sticking out? My wheels have additional holes as it fits multiple bolt patterns, but I'm not sure if those other holes would be where the factory studs stick out after I bolt the wheel to the spacer. Thanks!
That is indeed where the extra material would go. The stock studs on the front of my civic would poke through the spacer, into that cavity of the wheel. Since every car is different, to play it safe, you would have to measure how much stud you have, minus how thick of a spacer you want to mount, and then see if the cavities for the wheels are large enough for the extra stud. Hope that makes sense!
Great video! TY. Would using thread locker on the lugs be advisable?
When I was looking for the exact same spacer you installed on your Civic on your video, the Bonoss website did not bring up any spacer for 2012 Civic Si. Which exact one did you install? Can you share the link? Also in the video you installed the 20mm while in the description FAQ section you mentioned you installed the 15mm. Was the 20mm too wide and was rubbing? Thank you!
Super informative and in depth ! My only question is, is it safe to run slip on with stock studs if I’m still getting the required safe recommended rotation of the lug nut ?
Would u have to do an alignment after installing spacers? I've heard it wears the tires faster, and puts extra load on the suspension and makes the car hard to steer? Thoughts
You don't need to do an alignment afterwards. It doesn't put more wear on the tires, it does slightly put more load on the suspension, and over so slightly does cause the steering to be a bit harder, however it would be no different than putting aftermarket wheels and tires on the car. I wouldn't worry in the slightest given what I mentioned. I would buy spacers again 👍
@@milanmastracci ohh awesome thanks
Haven’t watched your videos in a while. But the mustache is looking good👍👍👍
Are forged aluminum spacers okay? what does forged billet mean?
I just need something to put space between the brakes on my Challenger to be able to use a steel wheel Spare wheel I put together. The car has 20" mags...I made up a spare the same ride height from a 17" rim and a 245 / 65/ 17 tire but- when I put it on it rubs something...Can I use a slip on spacer? Glad I saw this video cause I almost bought the one with studs...I don't need it.
Thank you, learned so much!! I’ll keep you updated to what I do!
QUESTION: what if I put on 1.5 spacers and I need a little more, could I add a 1/4" slip on if I upgrade the studs? can you run double spacers?
Are those bonoss bolt on spacers safe for long dustances?
absolutely clear explanation. thank you very much. you are a nice instructor.
Glad it was helpful!
What about the added stress on Bearing components? The larger the offset not compensated for in the original design the more stress you will put on your bearings, if you now go and put bigger wheels on or add weight to the rotating mass it would be even worse??
The difference in running a spacer, will be like the difference between carrying an extra person in your car or not. It will theoretically create more stress, but it isn't harmful enough to cause excessive wear.
Best video and explanation ever about spacers
Great video! This is information. I ha e a question. I saw that they had 2 different model numbers for the g37 coupes. BONOSS Forged AL7075-T6 Active Cooling 5×114.3 Hubcentric Wheel Spacers for Infiniti G37, BONOSS Forged AL6061-T6 Active Cooling Hubcentric 5×114.3 Wheel Spacers for Infiniti G37
I'm trying to figure out which one to get. Thank you.
Good info as I’m in the market for some spacers for my Mazda. Thanks
Glad to help!
Nice and informative vids. Thinking about adding spacers to my 08 4x4 f-150 to see if it accommodates 35's without leveling it. Please advice.
Thanks.
can't you use the slip on spacers with longer than stock wheel lug bolts?
Best video on spacers. Very detailed.
Glad you liked it!
What about a wheel spacer with a reduced center hub..? I have a sweet set of VW wheels that are too small for my Mercedes. Same bolt pattern (5x112), but smaller center bore. My Benz is 66.6mm, I believe, and the VW’s are 57mm..
Hi.
I am going to install IMS suspension with 2" lift and 30mm spacers.
My tire size is 265/65/R17
I hope this is sufficient to prevent any rollovers.
Great video, I have been looking for a good video talking about wheel spacers.
Glad you enjoyed! Be sure to share it 👍
Excellent video Milan and very informative.....how wide can you go before you start stressing your wheel hubs and bearings ????
It depends. I usually go with as wide of a spacer as needed, but not fat enough to push the wheels out past the fenders. If you can keep your overall wheel offset to stay in the positive values, it will prevent the bearings from experiencing too much stress.
@@milanmastracci thank you Milan !!!!!
Hey g ... I went the extended stud (ARP) and custom made by local shop 1 inch spacers (solid) no slots for my corvette c5 due to the wheels I’m ruining and since my car makes 420 lbs torque to the wheels I didn’t wanted to cheap out on anything for it .
Quick question here: Is it a problem if the total surface diameter of the spacer is smaller than the central diameter of the hub and wheel, even though the other characteristics match perfectly?
Homie, your video was super informative and helpful for what I’m trying to do on my daily driver 2012 civic. Thanks man 👍
Glad it helped Victor! 👊
why's everyone on that Adam LZ look 😂
Kinda tempted, tho I tried that longer ago
it's just a cut bro, LZ didn't start that shit lol
@@adamzav4042 it's just a joke, bro
Unlike
I’m looking to put spacer on my 5 lugs Ford Expedition 2000 4x4 needs to install a spacer conversion 5 lugs to 6. The rims are 6 lugs 2020 F150
I would like to buy one for my Mini Cooper s R56 2012 . Which one do you recommend for me . I like your Mini Cooper setup.. thanks good info
Clean them up well and put some anti-seize or grease between the spacer and the hub/wheels.
Informative, my old 911 has 2 inch front and 3 inch back spacers.
Very informative and in depth! Awesome video bro 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Glad you liked it!
amazing video, thanks for making this. certainly has shed some light for me!!!
What you said may be true for vehicles from Japan and Asia but cars from Europe are different VW/Audi for instance he wheel hub might have a chamfer at the base of the hub and the corresponding spacer must have a chamfer on it's mating surface so the spacer sits flush sometimes this poses a problem because those type of spacers have a chamfer on the wheel side too and IF your aftermarket wheels don't have a deep enough chamfer the wheel won't sit flush to the spacer...research this before going out and buying any spacer, most "tuner shops" will not take back spacers if they've just been "test fitted". Another thing the smaller (thinner) slip on spacers are not hub AND wheel centric they are only hub centric so if you use those use proper torquing procedures there comes a point of no return IMO when using the thin ones is it worth it?
Nice video 👍🏼👌 for me H&R are my go to always for spacers 👍🏼👌
Can I rely solely on Bonoss giving me the correct parts for the job?
Like: I preferred 15mm front and 25mm rear from Bonoss for a Genesis GV70. They all are bolt on and is it ok to use a dab of never seize on the hub? And use blue loctite on the bolts of the spacer after it’s TQ to 84ft lbs? Then put the wheel in and TQ to the manuals spec?
Or skip the loctite and drive it for 100miles and take the wheels off and check TQ of the spacers since it a new mating ?
Someone mentioned to buy new rim lug nuts as it’ll look ugly now but not sure why if using stock hardware?
This was the best video I have watched as I consider adding spacers to my 2019 Passat Wolfsburg Edition. The inset of the wheels is the only thing I don’t like about the appearance of my VW.
Great video! Thanks for the information.
Any recommendations for use with original 18” wheels on a 2020 Corolla SE?
Most vehicles with thier factory wheels can get away with 15-20mm bolt on spacers without a problem. I would measure your specific car just to double check 👍
@@milanmastracci Thanks 🙏🏻!
What about a vehicle that would see mild off-roading such as a 4Matic? Is that safe to use the thicker spacers? you mentioned The Track but didn't hit on off-road/rally :)
Loving those RSX Type-S wheels!!!!!
Are spacers ok for travel, been wanting some for my D.D. but do 150+ miles a day. To work and home
Yes they are! The installation is the most important part of it to ensure their safety. I'd driven over 150k kilometres with spacers on my Accord
Great info.
Question is. Owned a 2017 Mercedes Benz CLA 250. Planning on putting some wheel spacers on it. 15mm at the back and 10mm up front. Do you have any idea what the hub bore size should be for the spacers, don’t want any vibration down the road. Thanks
Great, and well explained video. Thank you