Really appreciate your video👍. I have the same set up that I have yet to try. I have an old Montgomery Wards tiller I bought second hand that wasn't running. It has an old Briggs and Stratton 5hp on it that I brought back to life. Hopefully this spring this same setup will help me plant my very first garden!
I made an almost identical setup. I have an old (80's) DYNAMARK 12/38, I have and old Montgomery Ward 5 hp front tine tiller which I drag the same way you do. The tractor is 12 hp, and the tiller is now powered with the same Predator engine as yours. My hitch swivels some left and right, so the tiller follows the tractor, and fully up and down. I made chains and wheel weights for my tractor, and I have done some serious tilling, for the last 5 years. My garden is about 3000 square feet, I started from lawn with some small shrubbery. I have yet to even slow the tines of my tiller. It is a monster. Since my tractor has no PTO, I'm fabricating a lift and a side to side mechanism (so I can till right up to my fence) to be powered by cordless drill, geared down, and using acme thread. I'm guessing you have a loose belt. I've taken out some good sized stumps with mine, and nothing gave, slowed, or even showed signs of laboring. My tiller has a 2" pulley on the shaft.
I actually ran across your video because I am planning on doing the same thing except I am going to be using a sleeve hitch on a '68 Massey Ferguson. I am actually going to try and offset it to the right side so i dont have to run a tire through ground that's already been tilled. Great job!!!
You impressed the heck out of me. I was going to text you about the pulley size change..then I heard you say it. Many people have no idea about the pulley, much less the fabrication you did. I get the impression you may have a farm...or at least a couple acres where you have to be able to figure out stuff instead of spending thousands. My grandad had huge gardens, fruit trees, ect. He built his own home, cut down trees, raised chickens. Granny out up 2-300 cabs of stuff a year. I learned alot...but, I would have not even though of what you did.
If you can find an old tiller attachment for an old garden tractor most of them are wider than the walk-behind tillers. I found one for an old AC Big Ten garden tractor, I'm going to modify a sleeve hitch and adapt it, power it with a Predator 212, all on the back of an old Gilson garden tractor from the '60's. Btw, the counter-rotating tines will spread the dirt more than the regular rotation. It would be really cool to figure out a way to switch between them on the same machine.
I am seeking to do the same thing with a newer craftsman tractor, hopefully it will work. Thanks for the direction. ps I had the same tractor that you had the old Sears Roebuck. It was a great unit. Thanks again.
Good job with that. However, to fix it to where you won’t get anymore ruts there is look into getting a couple dump truck loads of gravel to put there. No more mud to worry about and no more ruts.
You could probably mount a board onto the back of the fender of the tiller and mount the engage and disengage lever to it if possible you can control it from the seat
It is possible to speed it up a bit faster as some has stated, but do you really need to. Sure breaking new ground with a little more speed would be nice, but after it is broke, all you will be doing is maintaining. The current speed should be fine. Everything takes a little time.
Hi, I have the same tractor except after replacing the entire ignition system my odd gearish thing that holds the balls for the throwball governor cracked. If your near Vermont and want the engine you can have it. It did run great till I was pushing more snow than I should, it started running like crap so I started taking it apart. I stopped when I found the cracked piece, there could be more damage, it was only running on one cylinder when I chose to investigate.
I'm sorry to hear that. I absolutely love this tractor. It's well made out of real steel and built like a tank. The engine in it thru a rod and kept running lol.
Im wondering where u are from ? Im a lanning from kansas and its not often i see the name many places. If u dont mind chattin sometime let me know !! I also got a sear tractor like the one you have on here. Its a ss/16 onan. Horse man its a heavy thing.
I am from Slippery Rock, PA. There's a lot of distant relatives in Ohio and Pennsylvania. Through similar interests on Facebook, I came across 3rd or 4th cousins of mine in Smith Alberta Canada. I think I may have found your family in Kansas on Ancestry. We can talk sometime. That is fine with me. Do you have a facebook?
I dont no how to do this very well on here so i hope u get this. Never heard of that place interresting !! Yeah id love to talk to you sometime on email or something. I do not nor do i want anything to do with facebook lol i hate that thing. Im a very privet person i like to talk 1 on 1 but anyway we could email if that works id sure like to find out more . We probly have to be related. Theres 2 lanning family side here we are in atwood and others colby. Well thanks for getting back to me !! My name is kyle
@tattoo62 Hi Kyle, my email is toyotamr2nick@yahoo.com In the title box put Lanning Facebook isn't for everyone and that's OK. There's actually quite a few Lannings over here. My cousins in Canada have a Lanning book written about the Lanning family. Wish I could read it.
Hey dude i will send u a email as soon as i can i got busy and also have bad back so i havent forgotten and am excited to talk to you , itll just b a bit yet
i have an old one, it just uses a push mower engine. i think its an agway. it to was leaking so i also put grease in it, i figured for its speed and what it is it should be fine.
I wouldn't call it a poor man's tiller, I would call it a smart man's tiller! Instead of throwing it away and buying new, you use what you have that's smart!
It sure did. I have a set of discs that I'd like to use but I think they spread the dirt out when I want to pull it into the ruts. Will have to mod that too.
Great job! Get it turning faster and you'll be good! I am looking for a tiller to do the same thing! I hope to find a 24" tiller. I have a John Deere 430 and I cant find a rear PTO to save my soul and I wont pay $3k for a DR or other brand.
Your videos (and buckin' billy ray's) have me VERY badly yearning to live in a more 'country' area, have lived in cities or city-side suburbs my entire life (excepting college although my 30k-students university was basically a 'city' in the middle of a country-area AKA Amherst, MA), at any rate- HOW'S THE SCHEPPACH??? My CSP2540 gave me a big frown yesterday when, mid-job while topping-off fuel&oil, I was securely/firmly closing my oil-reservoir AND THE CAP JUST SPUN, SPUN SPUN IN-PLACE! Stripped!! Ugh am going to have to mod/alter that interface now because I'd been having issues with oil escaping, ever so slowly, from the reservoir's cap so I'd been making sure to go real slow&firm when closing it to full-closure and, within a week (maybe 2-3 uses in that period) of doing so, the thing strips out! It's weird because it doesn't even feel like a "full strip", I am actually guessing that, if you took yours and tried to go as firm as you could, you may also find that when it goes from what feels like "98% closed to 100% closed" that it'll loose-bite on the threading and allow you to do another full rotation of the cap! For the time-being I will be leaving it a bit 'loose', allowing the slight oil-seepage that may occur / leave it sitting on a towel when not in-use, but this is a major PITA that is the first complaint I've got with the unit, for them to use plastic threading there and not have enough threads / insufficiently-deep threads to ensure a good 'bite'! Hopefully 'alterations'/fixing it will be as simple as finding a very, very soft rubber-washer-gasket-thingie to put in that interface before putting the cap onto the reservoir, allowing me to make-use of the OEM threading and not have to deal w/ serious thread-alterations (unsure how I'd even do so, would be on reddit asking for novel ideas lol) [actually this is complaint #2, with the other being almost the same IE another seal, this time the air-filter-cover, that plastic knob you turn to open/close access to the air filter has a rubber-washer beneath it that, right after getting the unit & first-time ever looking at the (brand-new at that point) air-filter, when I went to close it the rubber washer wouldn't stay in-place it'd start distorting, I can't close it 100% because the circular rubber washer starts trying to ovalize itself around 95% closed, doesn't really matter at that location but certainly does at the oil-reservoir's cap!] Thanks a ton for the videos man, it's great finding different perspectives on stuff I mean I'd never have found your channel had you not (awesomely!) been one of the only solid CSP2540 reviews out there, very glad you made that vid (I intend to do similar once I've got my [bonsai] channel up, figure "tree-related" is fair-game for me even though I'm hardly in a position to tell/inform anyone about anything lol but I'll be sure to be clear about my 'expertise' or lack-thereof! :D )
Thumbs up for the mechanical ingenuity. Thumbs down for the rototiller. Gosh! Humans do love to solve problems we created!! ;-) Ever heard about no till gardening?! No gas, no effort, better soil and crop... Moldboard plow, disks, tiller become totally redundant and not needed at all! Can't be neither simpler or economical. ;-)
And gotta nitpick but "poor man's", ugh hate that term!! You're not poor if you're playing with machinery you're poor when you're fighting to figure out your food & housing lol, frugal/smart is what you are (and what I aim for / think I do a good job at!)
I'm building one now out of my old tiller to pull my trailer.
Really appreciate your video👍. I have the same set up that I have yet to try. I have an old Montgomery Wards tiller I bought second hand that wasn't running. It has an old Briggs and Stratton 5hp on it that I brought back to life. Hopefully this spring this same setup will help me plant my very first garden!
Great job Sir!! From another backyard guy. Keep getting it!!
Awesome job. I appreciate the engineering that went into make it functional!
I made an almost identical setup. I have an old (80's) DYNAMARK 12/38, I have and old Montgomery Ward 5 hp front tine tiller which I drag the same way you do. The tractor is 12 hp, and the tiller is now powered with the same Predator engine as yours. My hitch swivels some left and right, so the tiller follows the tractor, and fully up and down. I made chains and wheel weights for my tractor, and I have done some serious tilling, for the last 5 years. My garden is about 3000 square feet, I started from lawn with some small shrubbery. I have yet to even slow the tines of my tiller. It is a monster. Since my tractor has no PTO, I'm fabricating a lift and a side to side mechanism (so I can till right up to my fence) to be powered by cordless drill, geared down, and using acme thread.
I'm guessing you have a loose belt. I've taken out some good sized stumps with mine, and nothing gave, slowed, or even showed signs of laboring. My tiller has a 2" pulley on the shaft.
Princess Auto sells a centrifugal clutch that would allow engine to be started, but tines wouldn't rotarotate . Nice build though.
I actually ran across your video because I am planning on doing the same thing except I am going to be using a sleeve hitch on a '68 Massey Ferguson. I am actually going to try and offset it to the right side so i dont have to run a tire through ground that's already been tilled. Great job!!!
Certainly a poor man’s solution.
You impressed the heck out of me. I was going to text you about the pulley size change..then I heard you say it. Many people have no idea about the pulley, much less the fabrication you did. I get the impression you may have a farm...or at least a couple acres where you have to be able to figure out stuff instead of spending thousands. My grandad had huge gardens, fruit trees, ect. He built his own home, cut down trees, raised chickens. Granny out up 2-300 cabs of stuff a year. I learned alot...but, I would have not even though of what you did.
I'm doing same thing with mine.
great stuff. only issue i see is that you're dragging the tiller backwards basically. normally its meant to claw itself forward slowly
I have thought about doing the same thing many times, you put it to fruition. Nice
Nice job. You inspired me to give it a try.
Great Job
Very nice !
If you can find an old tiller attachment for an old garden tractor most of them are wider than the walk-behind tillers. I found one for an old AC Big Ten garden tractor, I'm going to modify a sleeve hitch and adapt it, power it with a Predator 212, all on the back of an old Gilson garden tractor from the '60's. Btw, the counter-rotating tines will spread the dirt more than the regular rotation. It would be really cool to figure out a way to switch between them on the same machine.
When I think of a poor man I don't picture him with a tractor.
You could make that point.
Nice, I'd probably do something like this on my 10hp simplicity, keep the wear and tear off the old tractor.
I got one of those old SS 16 twins too...
I am seeking to do the same thing with a newer craftsman tractor, hopefully it will work. Thanks for the direction. ps I had the same tractor that you had the old Sears Roebuck. It was a great unit. Thanks again.
Way to go. At least your thinking and it works to
Good job with that. However, to fix it to where you won’t get anymore ruts there is look into getting a couple dump truck loads of gravel to put there. No more mud to worry about and no more ruts.
That's exactly what we did. Put about 80 tons in there.
You could probably mount a board onto the back of the fender of the tiller and mount the engage and disengage lever to it if possible you can control it from the seat
It is possible to speed it up a bit faster as some has stated, but do you really need to. Sure breaking new ground with a little more speed would be nice, but after it is broke, all you will be doing is maintaining. The current speed should be fine. Everything takes a little time.
Hi, I have the same tractor except after replacing the entire ignition system my odd gearish thing that holds the balls for the throwball governor cracked. If your near Vermont and want the engine you can have it. It did run great till I was pushing more snow than I should, it started running like crap so I started taking it apart. I stopped when I found the cracked piece, there could be more damage, it was only running on one cylinder when I chose to investigate.
Find yourself a set of springs to assist it up so you don't have to pull so hard 👍
Thinking about doing that to my cub international 147
Remember that tine rotation speeds are totally related to your pulley size. You should be able to get what you want with a little experimentation.
I'm wondering if using cinder blocks as weights on the tiller would help.
Put a bigger pulley on that engine and it will spin faster. Will need a different belt though.
You should plough the land first let it dry for a day or two then you should till it
Can i plant corn if i do the same proces like you?
Yes of course!!
I hated my 1973 Sears St16 tractor especially the Tecumseh engine. I hated the three point and the tractor was bought new.
I'm sorry to hear that. I absolutely love this tractor. It's well made out of real steel and built like a tank. The engine in it thru a rod and kept running lol.
Im wondering where u are from ? Im a lanning from kansas and its not often i see the name many places. If u dont mind chattin sometime let me know !! I also got a sear tractor like the one you have on here. Its a ss/16 onan. Horse man its a heavy thing.
I am from Slippery Rock, PA. There's a lot of distant relatives in Ohio and Pennsylvania. Through similar interests on Facebook, I came across 3rd or 4th cousins of mine in Smith Alberta Canada. I think I may have found your family in Kansas on Ancestry. We can talk sometime. That is fine with me. Do you have a facebook?
I dont no how to do this very well on here so i hope u get this. Never heard of that place interresting !! Yeah id love to talk to you sometime on email or something. I do not nor do i want anything to do with facebook lol i hate that thing. Im a very privet person i like to talk 1 on 1 but anyway we could email if that works id sure like to find out more . We probly have to be related. Theres 2 lanning family side here we are in atwood and others colby. Well thanks for getting back to me !! My name is kyle
@tattoo62 Hi Kyle, my email is toyotamr2nick@yahoo.com
In the title box put Lanning
Facebook isn't for everyone and that's OK. There's actually quite a few Lannings over here. My cousins in Canada have a Lanning book written about the Lanning family. Wish I could read it.
@@tattoo62 Did you ever send that email?
Hey dude i will send u a email as soon as i can i got busy and also have bad back so i havent forgotten and am excited to talk to you , itll just b a bit yet
Do you want to sale it ?
i have an old one, it just uses a push mower engine. i think its an agway. it to was leaking so i also put grease in it, i figured for its speed and what it is it should be fine.
I don't think that was a smart idea
Big mistake going counter rotating
Hell what is anyone doing watching three year old videos
I repowered a 3 point Montgomery tiller with a Preditor motor too. It worked great.
I wouldn't call it a poor man's tiller, I would call it a smart man's tiller! Instead of throwing it away and buying new, you use what you have that's smart!
So poor man's lol when the world goes upside down roles will be reversed
That worked out pretty good!!
Now that you have it tilled take a old bedspring or one field drag section and pull it over it to level it up.
It sure did. I have a set of discs that I'd like to use but I think they spread the dirt out when I want to pull it into the ruts. Will have to mod that too.
Great job! Get it turning faster and you'll be good! I am looking for a tiller to do the same thing! I hope to find a 24" tiller. I have a John Deere 430 and I cant find a rear PTO to save my soul and I wont pay $3k for a DR or other brand.
Now that's a pretty cool mod. Good job.
Thank you!!
Your videos (and buckin' billy ray's) have me VERY badly yearning to live in a more 'country' area, have lived in cities or city-side suburbs my entire life (excepting college although my 30k-students university was basically a 'city' in the middle of a country-area AKA Amherst, MA), at any rate- HOW'S THE SCHEPPACH??? My CSP2540 gave me a big frown yesterday when, mid-job while topping-off fuel&oil, I was securely/firmly closing my oil-reservoir AND THE CAP JUST SPUN, SPUN SPUN IN-PLACE! Stripped!! Ugh am going to have to mod/alter that interface now because I'd been having issues with oil escaping, ever so slowly, from the reservoir's cap so I'd been making sure to go real slow&firm when closing it to full-closure and, within a week (maybe 2-3 uses in that period) of doing so, the thing strips out! It's weird because it doesn't even feel like a "full strip", I am actually guessing that, if you took yours and tried to go as firm as you could, you may also find that when it goes from what feels like "98% closed to 100% closed" that it'll loose-bite on the threading and allow you to do another full rotation of the cap!
For the time-being I will be leaving it a bit 'loose', allowing the slight oil-seepage that may occur / leave it sitting on a towel when not in-use, but this is a major PITA that is the first complaint I've got with the unit, for them to use plastic threading there and not have enough threads / insufficiently-deep threads to ensure a good 'bite'!
Hopefully 'alterations'/fixing it will be as simple as finding a very, very soft rubber-washer-gasket-thingie to put in that interface before putting the cap onto the reservoir, allowing me to make-use of the OEM threading and not have to deal w/ serious thread-alterations (unsure how I'd even do so, would be on reddit asking for novel ideas lol)
[actually this is complaint #2, with the other being almost the same IE another seal, this time the air-filter-cover, that plastic knob you turn to open/close access to the air filter has a rubber-washer beneath it that, right after getting the unit & first-time ever looking at the (brand-new at that point) air-filter, when I went to close it the rubber washer wouldn't stay in-place it'd start distorting, I can't close it 100% because the circular rubber washer starts trying to ovalize itself around 95% closed, doesn't really matter at that location but certainly does at the oil-reservoir's cap!]
Thanks a ton for the videos man, it's great finding different perspectives on stuff I mean I'd never have found your channel had you not (awesomely!) been one of the only solid CSP2540 reviews out there, very glad you made that vid (I intend to do similar once I've got my [bonsai] channel up, figure "tree-related" is fair-game for me even though I'm hardly in a position to tell/inform anyone about anything lol but I'll be sure to be clear about my 'expertise' or lack-thereof! :D )
Original motor should have been restored!
But that’s not the love to boat way cheap and Chinese!
What kinda drill
Brushed Milwaukee. They don't make it anymore.
Thumbs up for the mechanical ingenuity. Thumbs down for the rototiller. Gosh! Humans do love to solve problems we created!! ;-)
Ever heard about no till gardening?! No gas, no effort, better soil and crop...
Moldboard plow, disks, tiller become totally redundant and not needed at all! Can't be neither simpler or economical. ;-)
And gotta nitpick but "poor man's", ugh hate that term!! You're not poor if you're playing with machinery you're poor when you're fighting to figure out your food & housing lol, frugal/smart is what you are (and what I aim for / think I do a good job at!)