That is a nice rifle. The black color of the felt tells all, it is polishing/cleaning. I have always been a firm believer in polishing bores on both air rifles and powder burners. And, like you, I have always liked the JB line of products. As a journeyman tool and die maker, I always kept them in my toolbox for final fitting of extremally close fitting sliding inspection gage components. I have always thought of the fine JB paste as like the brown stick polishing compound one would use on a buffing wheel. After using it on barrels, I always follow up with the white Mothers aluminum polish. Simply because I think it is yet finer than the fine JB paste. You should give it a try if you have not already done so. I just discovered your channel yesterday, it probably showed up on my recommended videos because of all the searching I have been doing on PCP compressors. Your hot rodded Yong Heng is by far the most impressive set up on that compressor I have seen. Looking forward to follow up videos on the GX CS2. I like how you got rid of the clips and the set up on the truck. Very nice. The problem with long term reviews is the amount of time and effort to produce any data. I appreciate your effort to helping, and promoting the sport. Keep taking good care of, and enjoying Broomhilda. She looks like a real shooter.
Nice to see I'm not the only one who polishes air rifle barrels. So many are afraid to touch them like it's a spacecraft or something 😂 well done with creative solution!
Thank you for the video! Looks like it worked out well for you. That is a beautiful 97 , I’m sure it felt great to improve upon an already stellar rifle. Hope it’s shooting great for ya!🫡
True that on the JB products. Something of note to those that have not thought bore poling thru. One, No mothers or any other mag wheel polish. They are is made for Alu.. Not steel. Entirely the wrong type of grit. Secondly, No, JB is not like the brown or reddish bar compounds. Those are jewelers rouge. Made again for non ferrous metals such as brass, silver, bronze and so forth. Not steel. Compounds for steel are Green/White/Pink. They are alu. oxide and made for polishing steel. An alternative for steel final polish in a bbl. is Flitz metal polish. It is ultra fine and made for steel. I use JB Bore paste initially and follow with flitz or JB bore brite. Both do a fine job and are non inbedding. For those that do not want to spend over priced line such as shown, although a great product, It is nothing more than weed cutter line. Most or many of us have weed whackers. I use Stihl line and it works just fine and I have tons of it. I make stops for it from very small dis. shrink tubing. ;
I use a knotted shoe lace, 3 or 4 knots throughout the lace. I then use Autosol on the knots. As you pull the lace through the barrel you can feel the high spots throughout the length which I concentrate on. I find this a very good method.
thats how i do it but with jb bore paste and then flitz metal polish it will usually help with the flyers and the groups stay tight longer before cleanings
@@le3045acp hello good sir. if your barrel is necked down in spots and thats what ur polishing out... how would it cause flyers? it's not a variable.. if the barrel was causing the problem wouldnt it cause it 100% of the time?
@@schlomoshekelstein908 im only talking about a quality lothar walther or fx or cz barrel that throws a random flyer once in a while and the smoothness of polishing seems to make the flyers closer to the group instead of a dime sized group with a flyer 1 inch from the group it will be a dime sized group with the flyer 1/2 to 3/8 of and inch and when hunting head shots 1 inch flyer is a miss but 1/2 or 3/8 is a hit and usually makes it to the cooking pot
@@le3045acp I don't understand how something in the barrel can cause 1 pellet out of 10 to go awry and not hit the bullseye. The barrel doesn't change at all. If there's something in the barrel causing that deflection of trajectory it should happen everytime you shoot. Right? The barrel isn't changing, but everytime you shoot you're using a different pellet. You're using underweight, undersized, or damaged pellets for the flyers
@@schlomoshekelstein908 lets me just say the polishing helps with time between cleanings and loss of acuracy and also makes the barrel less pellet fussy
Excellent video - getting my new Diana Stormrider tomorrow. When’s the best time to polish. Safe to do on pcp? Removing the barrel is a little intimidating for me. Thanks
Best time? I would shoot the heck out of it and see how it shoots. Put in the time and find what pellet works best in your barrel. Once you have done that, months of work, and you really need that extra little nudge of accuracy, then you can try this as a step forward. Make a data based decision and you will be much happier. Safe on a PCP? Certainly, usually easier as well. Good luck! Thanks for the comment!
That would likely work well Jeff. I was trying to create something that would conform and provide even radial pressure as it was tensioned, I would image a knot would constrict under tension? I guess it would depend on the knot and arrangement of them to some degree. I need to revisit it and develop it further. Thank you for your comment.
Pretty much what i did on a 1895 mauser that was made in 1895 and had a horrible barrel after polishing i could get sub 3 inch groups at 100 with hand loads not bad for a 127 year old rifle.
It would of been nice if you bore scoped it before and after to show what you were talking about, a picture is worth a thousand words. Interesting film though.
Would be even better if I had an imaging system that could give me the kind of quality recording inside a .177" tube to actually visualize a delta! I get your point, even a before and after group would have been good. To be honest I just wanted to try the "Patch Worm" hack for polishing barrels, I know it improved the finish in the bore because I slugged it before and after. How much it REALLY improved accuracy? I would need an independant shooter and a double blind test regimen to really know. Maybe another test in the future that does some of these cool metrics.... Subscribe so you don't miss future content! Thank you for your comment!
What do you think about following up the JB with a finer grit polish? Also, would be nice to see the before & after effect on the deformation of the projectiles and any changes in POI or accuracy.
There are two polishes or compounds from JB, this one is their finest. Far as I know anyway. Would have done that, but it had already been polished once. Not to this level, but I would love to do that test with an unpolished barrel. Maybe the old RWS 52 could be a candidate. Sounds like fun! I need a new scope on that gun anyway.
The cord will get polish imbedded in its surface. When the abrasive imbedded cord is pulled sideways and it rubs against the edge of the breech or crown, uneven metal removal will occur in that spot.
@@TargetForge You had to clean the bore afterwards because there was compound deposited in the bore. Correct? That deposited compound also came into contact with the cord as you worked it back and forth. Some of that compound would be transferred to the cord. It's impossible to prevent it happening.
Is it possible? Sure. Is it likely to happen within 100 strokes? Not to mention the likelihood of it happening in exactly the same place? I guess what I read into your comment is the level of certainty. Do I think a cleaning rod as used elsewhere, has its own issues? You bet. I'll take this out on the range tomorrow and see how it goes. Getting a straight pull on the muzzle end is quite a bit easier, the breech on this gun would require a guide of some sort. Could be done... Thanks for the input!
That is a nice rifle. The black color of the felt tells all, it is polishing/cleaning. I have always been a firm believer in polishing bores on both air rifles and powder burners. And, like you, I have always liked the JB line of products. As a journeyman tool and die maker, I always kept them in my toolbox for final fitting of extremally close fitting sliding inspection gage components.
I have always thought of the fine JB paste as like the brown stick polishing compound one would use on a buffing wheel. After using it on barrels, I always follow up with the white Mothers aluminum polish. Simply because I think it is yet finer than the fine JB paste. You should give it a try if you have not already done so.
I just discovered your channel yesterday, it probably showed up on my recommended videos because of all the searching I have been doing on PCP compressors. Your hot rodded Yong Heng is by far the most impressive set up on that compressor I have seen.
Looking forward to follow up videos on the GX CS2. I like how you got rid of the clips and the set up on the truck. Very nice.
The problem with long term reviews is the amount of time and effort to produce any data. I appreciate your effort to helping, and promoting the sport.
Keep taking good care of, and enjoying Broomhilda. She looks like a real shooter.
Thank you Sir! What an awesome comment!
YES, Mothers Mag. & Aluminum Polish works great on a bore, I even do my shotguns with it.
So happy to see the top of your tool boxes. Now I know I am not the only one.
LOL! I'm crying over here...
Nice to see I'm not the only one who polishes air rifle barrels. So many are afraid to touch them like it's a spacecraft or something 😂 well done with creative solution!
Thank you!
Thank you!
Thanks Bill, well done. In the past when I have polished a barrel I have used a combo of Ernst Rowe and others techniques but will try this next time.
Thank you for your comment!
I’m a believer - thanks, I’ll give it a try.
Great!
Thank you for the video! Looks like it worked out well for you. That is a beautiful 97 , I’m sure it felt great to improve upon an already stellar rifle. Hope it’s shooting great for ya!🫡
Awesome tutorial! I am going to have to give this a try.
Thank you for your comment!
True that on the JB products. Something of note to those that have not thought bore poling thru. One, No mothers or any other mag wheel polish. They are is made for Alu.. Not steel. Entirely the wrong type of grit. Secondly, No, JB is not like the brown or reddish bar compounds. Those are jewelers rouge. Made again for non ferrous metals such as brass, silver, bronze and so forth. Not steel. Compounds for steel are Green/White/Pink. They are alu. oxide and made for polishing steel.
An alternative for steel final polish in a bbl. is Flitz metal polish. It is ultra fine and made for steel. I use JB Bore paste initially and follow with flitz or JB bore brite. Both do a fine job and are non inbedding.
For those that do not want to spend over priced line such as shown, although a great product, It is nothing more than weed cutter line. Most or many of us have weed whackers. I use Stihl line and it works just fine and I have tons of it. I make stops for it from very small dis. shrink tubing. ;
I use a knotted shoe lace, 3 or 4 knots throughout the lace. I then use Autosol on the knots. As you pull the lace through the barrel you can feel the high spots throughout the length which I concentrate on. I find this a very good method.
thats how i do it but with jb bore paste and then flitz metal polish it will usually help with the flyers and the groups stay tight longer before cleanings
@@le3045acp hello good sir. if your barrel is necked down in spots and thats what ur polishing out... how would it cause flyers? it's not a variable.. if the barrel was causing the problem wouldnt it cause it 100% of the time?
@@schlomoshekelstein908 im only talking about a quality lothar walther or fx or cz barrel that throws a random flyer once in a while and the smoothness of polishing seems to make the flyers closer to the group instead of a dime sized group with a flyer 1 inch from the group it will be a dime sized group with the flyer 1/2 to 3/8 of and inch and when hunting head shots 1 inch flyer is a miss but 1/2 or 3/8 is a hit and usually makes it to the cooking pot
@@le3045acp I don't understand how something in the barrel can cause 1 pellet out of 10 to go awry and not hit the bullseye. The barrel doesn't change at all. If there's something in the barrel causing that deflection of trajectory it should happen everytime you shoot. Right? The barrel isn't changing, but everytime you shoot you're using a different pellet. You're using underweight, undersized, or damaged pellets for the flyers
@@schlomoshekelstein908 lets me just say the polishing helps with time between cleanings and loss of acuracy and also makes the barrel less pellet fussy
Excellent video - getting my new Diana Stormrider tomorrow. When’s the best time to polish. Safe to do on pcp? Removing the barrel is a little intimidating for me. Thanks
Best time? I would shoot the heck out of it and see how it shoots. Put in the time and find what pellet works best in your barrel. Once you have done that, months of work, and you really need that extra little nudge of accuracy, then you can try this as a step forward. Make a data based decision and you will be much happier. Safe on a PCP? Certainly, usually easier as well. Good luck! Thanks for the comment!
I use string, and tie 3 knots about 3 inches apart. Goop them up with polish. Buff away. Great idea.
That would likely work well Jeff. I was trying to create something that would conform and provide even radial pressure as it was tensioned, I would image a knot would constrict under tension? I guess it would depend on the knot and arrangement of them to some degree. I need to revisit it and develop it further. Thank you for your comment.
Pretty much what i did on a 1895 mauser that was made in 1895 and had a horrible barrel after polishing i could get sub 3 inch groups at 100 with hand loads not bad for a 127 year old rifle.
It would of been nice if you bore scoped it before and after to show what you were talking about, a picture is worth a thousand words. Interesting film though.
Would be even better if I had an imaging system that could give me the kind of quality recording inside a .177" tube to actually visualize a delta! I get your point, even a before and after group would have been good. To be honest I just wanted to try the "Patch Worm" hack for polishing barrels, I know it improved the finish in the bore because I slugged it before and after. How much it REALLY improved accuracy? I would need an independant shooter and a double blind test regimen to really know. Maybe another test in the future that does some of these cool metrics.... Subscribe so you don't miss future content! Thank you for your comment!
What do you think about following up the JB with a finer grit polish? Also, would be nice to see the before & after effect on the deformation of the projectiles and any changes in POI or accuracy.
There are two polishes or compounds from JB, this one is their finest. Far as I know anyway. Would have done that, but it had already been polished once. Not to this level, but I would love to do that test with an unpolished barrel. Maybe the old RWS 52 could be a candidate. Sounds like fun! I need a new scope on that gun anyway.
The cord will get polish imbedded in its surface. When the abrasive imbedded cord is pulled sideways and it rubs against the edge of the breech or crown, uneven metal removal will occur in that spot.
It is a nylon rod or filament. During my use there was no compound present on it at all. I do not see that happening.
@@TargetForge You had to clean the bore afterwards because there was compound deposited in the bore. Correct? That deposited compound also came into contact with the cord as you worked it back and forth. Some of that compound would be transferred to the cord. It's impossible to prevent it happening.
Is it possible? Sure. Is it likely to happen within 100 strokes? Not to mention the likelihood of it happening in exactly the same place? I guess what I read into your comment is the level of certainty. Do I think a cleaning rod as used elsewhere, has its own issues? You bet. I'll take this out on the range tomorrow and see how it goes. Getting a straight pull on the muzzle end is quite a bit easier, the breech on this gun would require a guide of some sort. Could be done... Thanks for the input!