Interesting. I have exactly the same bullpup model, I see :) Grouping not bad I have, but there is always a long way until one is sure that only thing left is the barrel. I'm not yet there. Can you exactly say what is that compound for polishing?
@@JohnDoe-el5ir for loosening up the choke something slightly more course so I use auto solve metal polish but for just light polishing I tend to use T-Cut as it’s very very mild abrasive but works a treat on the internal polishing of barrel hope that helps regards Andi
@@andrewbennett6312 thanks, luckily they are available on Polish market, I mean in Poland :) That Autosol is I think one type but that T-Cut can you specify more? There are quite a few. of them
@@andrewbennett6312I tried mine and I also have some 7 spots to be corrected starting at the beginning after 1,5 cm I have area of an inch or so and then some single points. I also have massively tight choke that on crosman domed I have to use some force to get through. I see you have it there pretty effortless. Other thing is that actually when you mark them tight spots on rod or laces you have to reverse it because you create an mirror image of tight spots
@@JohnDoe-el5ir just the standard RED bottle of original T-cut thats wat i have found to work best it better to do little at a time that go to course and do something you cant Reverse
@@andrewbennett6312 I did some polishing but I don't see a difference yet, don't have ability to test it well enough, starting with my scope that is trash and not having space for testing and not being sure what pellets are the best and if it isn't a magazine issue, therefore I made a one shot tray because that one that comes with is unusable... Anyway I used the same stuff that you used, but yet not there. I don't see a difference, like that compound does almost nothing. When I put a pellet through I can still feel all these "stops", maybe little tiny less, barely noticeable. I polished a knife with it, that is much easier to do than riffling in barrel, and I don't know how long I would have to polish that knife to have a mirror finish, really, half an hour, an hour? Sand paper is what I think I'll try next in that barrel. But I have a thought, what about burrs that are in grooves? You can't polish those, sand paper will smooth out only the inner riffling, not that outer in grooves. When pellet is pushed through manually, the resistance that can be felt can be in any place of riffling when pellet is squeezed through. We can't tell where it is. We can guess that actually burrs can happen in these grooves as well. When it is produced, firstly machine drills a hole straight through, and then riffling is made. If that riffling tool stops few times during that process, or residues are not extracted properly etc. , we can assume that it makes these burrs there. Maybe. A good idea would be to have endoscope to see it...
Very interesting and thanks for sharing
Brilliant! 💯
@@spencerhulme1203 cheers Spencer
Greetings from Poland. I did as you showed and now my AEA focus is perfect.Thank you very much
@@Krist528 your welcome glad to have helped
Love the way you do this with the knots. Thanks for sharing. I found this video very informative and helpful.
Did something similar to my CP2, actually seemed to really help with consistency. Thanks for the guide
@@philholder-z5m thank you for the kind comments regards Andi
Tops Andy mate, going to give it a go on my m60, groups like crap !!! Hats off again matey 👍
@@chriswest4576 thanks for the kind comment hopefully the polish will cure your issue and have it tightening up the grouping regards Andi
Great thank you
Hi can your video of tuning the Kral np02 be found.
Regards
Dave
@@DaveGarraway I’m awaiting my laptop to be returned once I get it back yes more than happy to upload it again for everyone
Interesting. I have exactly the same bullpup model, I see :) Grouping not bad I have, but there is always a long way until one is sure that only thing left is the barrel. I'm not yet there. Can you exactly say what is that compound for polishing?
@@JohnDoe-el5ir for loosening up the choke something slightly more course so I use auto solve metal polish but for just light polishing I tend to use T-Cut as it’s very very mild abrasive but works a treat on the internal polishing of barrel hope that helps regards Andi
@@andrewbennett6312 thanks, luckily they are available on Polish market, I mean in Poland :) That Autosol is I think one type but that T-Cut can you specify more? There are quite a few. of them
@@andrewbennett6312I tried mine and I also have some 7 spots to be corrected starting at the beginning after 1,5 cm I have area of an inch or so and then some single points. I also have massively tight choke that on crosman domed I have to use some force to get through. I see you have it there pretty effortless. Other thing is that actually when you mark them tight spots on rod or laces you have to reverse it because you create an mirror image of tight spots
@@JohnDoe-el5ir just the standard RED bottle of original T-cut thats wat i have found to work best it better to do little at a time that go to course and do something you cant Reverse
@@andrewbennett6312 I did some polishing but I don't see a difference yet, don't have ability to test it well enough, starting with my scope that is trash and not having space for testing and not being sure what pellets are the best and if it isn't a magazine issue, therefore I made a one shot tray because that one that comes with is unusable... Anyway I used the same stuff that you used, but yet not there. I don't see a difference, like that compound does almost nothing. When I put a pellet through I can still feel all these "stops", maybe little tiny less, barely noticeable. I polished a knife with it, that is much easier to do than riffling in barrel, and I don't know how long I would have to polish that knife to have a mirror finish, really, half an hour, an hour? Sand paper is what I think I'll try next in that barrel.
But I have a thought, what about burrs that are in grooves? You can't polish those, sand paper will smooth out only the inner riffling, not that outer in grooves. When pellet is pushed through manually, the resistance that can be felt can be in any place of riffling when pellet is squeezed through. We can't tell where it is. We can guess that actually burrs can happen in these grooves as well. When it is produced, firstly machine drills a hole straight through, and then riffling is made. If that riffling tool stops few times during that process, or residues are not extracted properly etc. , we can assume that it makes these burrs there. Maybe. A good idea would be to have endoscope to see it...