I've made an update to this video covering what should be done when you're pushing one of these engines. You can check out that video below ⤵️ 😎 ua-cam.com/video/WVZdHSSCqzI/v-deo.htmlsi=9nkeZyWgYnjOf-FC
After owning my 2017 eco and seeing how reliable it has been up to 101k miles (knock on wood), I can say that these engines are reliable if taken care of! I have beat the living hell out of mine and it’s had no issues. I would definitely buy a second one and have been possibly eyeing a HPP Handling pack if I don’t go for a 5.0
@@piday9633 best rims (same as on current dark horse), better shocks/struts, tuned Chassis Tuning, Magna-ride suspension (best part). Fkn thing handles like my old WRX.
@@CrackaSlapYa That sounds really nice, but have you ever thought it might’ve been a little cheaper to do the additional modding and stuff yourself? Not trying to sound condescending or anything. I’m just trying to make sure it’s worth the extra 1-2k for something that can’t be done at home or anywhere else for cheaper 😅
My 2015 ecoboost is at 120k miles and there hasn’t been any major problems with it thruoght its lifespan a more than reliable engine i would say still drive it everyday 😌
@@truewax257 I m thinking of buying a 2.3 Mustang. 2016 or 2017 model. Do you know if it s a difference with the 2.3 engines as well. They all appears to be quite good. I m not buying any modified ones. Only original for me. 300 plus HP is more than enough for me.
Ecosport a2018 titanium automatic 43500 miles fullservice history ford maintained, wanted wet belt replaced told by three dealerships can't do it until the oil light comes on when it does pullover and get AA TO tow you to a ford dealerships, got rid of it! Who wants to drive around in a ticking time bomb. Lovely car engine needed a chain drive. 1000 cc not powerful enough for ecosport to much stain on the engine. In my opinion.
I have a 2020 Mustang Ecoboost which i bought brand new. I have only 33,000 miles on it (I live very close to work). It's been a very very reliable motor for me. I use only high grade full synthetic oil and have it changed religiously. I love my Stang
Reading through these comments just made me realize that not very many people know how to actually take care of a turbo car. Everything he said applies to pretty much all performance turbo cars.
He is not lying about the bad/low octane fuel. I had to learn that the hard way but was able to surmise that the issue was the low octane fuel when my van started sputtering. EcoBoosts hate low octane. Believe it! Now that I have an EcoBoost I absolutely regret that I did not get a PDFI engine instead.
It's a good idea to change the coolant every 50k miles. Currently at 114k milee, 2016 Ecoboost Performance pack, manual, bought it new with 5 miles on the odometer. Acidic coolant will attack the head gasket, and if you've ever seen how much margin there is in the 2.3 head gasket, you definitely don't want that!
Even though I've owned my 2016 Ecoboost since August 2022 with it at 80,000mi (originally at 46,000mi, I got it), its always good to hear from others and see if what I'm doing is match what others say. I tend to make sure oil, coolant, and even the transmission (green at 120F) temp is all in the green, I treat the car like normal. I then tend to put it on the boost gauge to watch my boost, which I knew was going to be the bigger mystery to me. Good vid.
I have never understood why people with a turbo car don't downshift before getting on it. Drop it down a couple of gears and then you're right where the turbo is happy.
@@TheMajictech And yet, they still need time to boost. Jamming the gas in a higher gear won't get the turbo spinning as quickly as a quick downshift will.
@@durwoodrobison7800 and probably 90% of those vehicles are equipped with an automatic transmission with not many having provisions for manual shifting
@@TheMajictech Then the engineers need to program the trasnsmisson properly, but they don't care about the car lasting past the factory warranty, so they won't.
this video is accurate. I own a '19 Ecoboost 6-speed with the Ecoboost Performance Package, Ford Performance intake and tune. using Shell 93 octane exclusively (or Chevron if there's no Shell station in the vicinity). Motorcraft full synthetic oil every 5k miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. "engine lugging" is driver error for sure.
i haven't done an oil change almost 8 months but i don't drive my eco everyday, should i still do its oil change? I've only put in 3,000 miles since the last oil change.
@@fartin6 Better safe than sorry. My 2019 Ecoboost Mustang is in the shop right now with a blown motor. Carbon built up so Ford denied warranty. They said that I had a antifreeze leak into "Valve #3" that caused the car to hydrolock upon starting the car. They said that the camshaft (I Believe) continued to turn and wrecked the motor. It's a $10,000 mistake that is coming all out of my pocket. The car has 51k miles on it. I am the second owner. Very nice car, but what a hunk of shit. After this car I will never buy another Ford because of Ford Motor Company fucking me when it comes to honoring warranty
If you finance a used one get the warranty I got mine at 29,000 miles - the engine block cracked, a cylinder was misfiring and my purge valve cracked. I saved so much money by getting the warranty, not paying anything. It’s a good daily commuter and very economical with decent performance mind you I never intend on “racing” 😂
Anyone who owns an AWD Ford must do is change the gear oil in the differential around 10,000 - 15,000 miles and same for the Power Train Unit off of the transmission due to what is called "break in period".. Both of these are small and hold very little fluid. With the PTU generally overheating and causing the fluid to have "viscosity breakdown" from the heat. The PTU is surrounded by the exhaust and catalytic converter. And must be changed every 20,000 to 30,000 miles. A high end gear oil from Redline or Amsoil is also recommended as they perform better under higher temps. Once the differential is changed it can go 60,000 miles between fluid changes.
That is the same for you 2.3l Ranger guys pumping 87. NO, The 2.3l ecoboost is tunes done for 87 but they like 91-93. Your engine will thank you. I run E30 with a tune most of the time on my Ranger. She purrs and stays cool.
My Silverado 2.7 turbo I4 has low rpm torque curve comes in at 1500 rpm,under very light throttle it will lug up a hill with out a down shift and no loss of speed, acts just like a Diesel.
That’s a characteristic of a direct injected turbo engine. They make so much torque and do it at relatively low speed, that main bearing wear can be an issue. Better to keep the rpm at least above 2k rpm as the engine. Less tension stress.
What about the coolant intrusion problem on these engines? Ford just told me I need a new long block due to coolant leakage in to cylinder 2. $8000…..help.
Sadly, these engines will continue to be plagued by that problem. It's a design flaw that doesn't have an easy fix. The coolant should be checked for exhaust gas contamination. That's likely the best way to tell if the head gasket has failed.
@@KarzKreated apparently it’s not the head gasket. It’s an actual crack in the cylinder. It gets worse over time. I can’t really trade in the car for an appropriate value due to this problem. Ford says new long block is only fix. There is a lawsuit pending but no recall. Apparently there are tens of thousands of these engines out there….1.4 to 2.0. So bad…..look in to it….you won’t believe this crap…
This is excellent information, thank you! I bought a 2020 Eco Mustang with 4 miles on it, has 16K now. I’m 57 and hope it will be my last car, so wish I could speak with someone like you here in Texas to learn more. I checked the sensor P/N and it seems to be the correct one, but did not know about that other part so will check it. The spark plugs tip was completely new to me, so this weekend going to pull them and inspect. Do you think the Ford synthetic blend oil is acceptable? I’ve changed the oil at about 3,000 miles (so about four times now when oil monitor shows about 50% remaining life) and haven’t yet used the 45K points the dealer awarded at purchase, so have been taking to the dealer for the oil changes. I’d like to change it myself in time so will investigate the other oils you mention. I buy only premium fuel but have been getting it at Kroger fuel station because of the fuel points, but if you recommend other name brands like Shell, Chevron, etc. would be glad to know. Don’t plan to mod but would like a catch can, but not overly mechanical and don’t know if I can install it. The only thing I’d like to do in time is upgraded intercooler. Thanks again for the great info. New subscriber here.
The Synthetic Blend your using is fine. You have the oil changed frequently, and you're not planning to drive the car too hard and modify it. So I wouldn't stress too much about it. Catch can is great idea while the car is new. I also wouldn't stress about the intercooler either unless you tune it to run higher boost pressure. The factory intercooler isn't the best, but it works better than not having one at all lol. I appreciate the support!
2020 Ford Explorer xlt 2.7 ecoboost with 57,000 miles. I got it brand new, zero issues so far. Worried about the overall longevity of the ecoboost. Should I change the spark plugs at 100k miles? Should I be ready to replace the transmission at 100k miles?….Haven’t watched the vid yet lol
Two words man... Wet Belt. Nothing you described fixes that problem. Look int it. You need to have your timing belts changed much more often than prescribed.
What’s with this wide open throttle stuff? I like to go fast with my Ford Flex Ecoboost, but have had no troubles in over 98,000 miles. I feel it is a great engine. Pretty hard to use wide open throttle around here without getting arrested.
i go pick up my first 2016 ecoboost has 87k miles and pick it up on august 10, what should i do right after i pick it up? oil change? transmission fluid change, differential fluid change? not sure what else.
You didn't mention TopTier gas. Change the oil, every year or 5,000 miles, whichever comes first, with a name brand API SN or SP rated oil. An oil catch can isn't a bad idea, but it's not really necessary on a stock, properly maintained engine. If you're pumping up the boost, you'll be increasing the blowby, so add a catch can. The 2.3 ecoboost isn't prone to carbon buildup, on the valves, if properly maintained. Do some research and try to find one, with any symptoms of carbon buildup. It's really hard to find one on the 2.3. The worst ecoboost, for carbon buildup, was the early 3.5. The biggest problem with the 2.3 is that it's an open deck block, with very narrow cylinder to head mating surfaces, for the head gasket to do it's job. It's a really terrible design, for an engine running this much boost stock. It's not a great idea to add more boost to it, without upgrading the head gasket and head bolts. Also, if you've got a 2018 or earlier, it'd be a good idea to upgrade the connecting rods, like Ford did in 2019. For a stock engine that's never been apart, I'd consider retorqueing the head bolts.
It's the EVAP Purge valve. It's not worth replacing unless it's malfunctioning. It's been recommended to replace it as a precaution. It's not nearly as important as the low pressure fuel sensor.
You seem very knowledgeable. I have a 2021 ecoboost. It rattles when I turn on the A/C and when it’s idle. Any ideas? I have been using the cheapest gas and it’s all stock. It has 25k miles
That's weird. That's one of those issues that's really hard to diagnose without looking at it. It could be something loose, or it could be related to the engine directly. Considering it only happens with the ac on, it could have something to do with the ac compressor. Another thing to keep in mind is that the high pressure fuel pump on these engines is loud. When you turn the ac on, the car will adjust idle a little higher by adding some timing to compensate for the ac. Since it's idling a little higher, the cam lobe that operates the high pressure fuel pump spins faster and usually becomes more audible. I doubt it has anything to do with the gas you're using.
Just curious, my 2021 Explorer with 2.3 ecoboost requires 5w30 and my assumption is that this is the case for most ecoboosts. I use full synthetic, and I've never had a problem with oil burn of any sort (and I tow a fishing boat regularly). My question is this, since I live in an extreme climate where it goes down to -40c in the winter, should I consider a different viscosity?
Factory oil viscosity for the 2.3 ranges from 5w30 to 5w50, depending on the application. I would definitely recommend looking into an oil that has great cold flow attributes. It could potentially be beneficial to use a 0w oil during the really cold months. Look up Project Farm on youtube if you don't already know, and watch through his oil test videos. He does a simple cold oil flow test at extreme temperatures.
Look for a block heater cord under your hood. Ford made them standard on most eco boosts for colder climate areas up until very recently. Definitely use it to preheat your engine on very cold start ups.
2:08thanks for this video! It’s great with a Lotta great info, question for this fuel sensor do you know what the correct good part number is? You mentioned to make sure you have the updated part… just fyi, my eco-boost is also a high-performance from 2022.
Are you going over a lot of hills? I’ve never gotten 12 mpg in my eco Id probably cry thinking it’s broken or the eco part fell off and it’s just straight boost lol
Maybe carbon buildup (induction cleaning, spark plug replacement, throttle body)… bad air filter Cruise control is not always efficient, especially if driving on rolling road grades Do hypermiling… I could easily get 22-24 mpg on my parents 2014 f150 ecoboost
Any local dealership will have them, though prices will vary. You can get them online here - www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-sensor-bu5z9f972b www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-hose-fuel-vapour-fr3z9g297h
I also do that. If I see that the oil temp is higher than normal after a hard run, I will let the car idle until the oil temp goes down a little before I shut it off.
just bought my 2016 eco boost with 55k miles on it and runs fantastic. Just curious...to the right of the steering wheel is a black flip up lid with switch under it...any idea what that is?
@KarzKreated Hello would you mind identifying the 2 structures your hands are on at minute 2:40 . My 2018 ecoboost seems to be leaving from the 2 and I have a code p0301
Those are the oil control solenoids for the camshaft phasers. There is a rubber seal in the valve cover that's prone to leaking over time. That's likely why you see oil leaking from there. That problem shouldn't cause a P0301 in itself. Pull out the ignition coil from cylinder 1 and see if there's oil in the spark plug hole.
I have recently gotten a new 2021 ecoboost premium. Rest assured I am gonna well take care of it. Except the first part you mentioned (low pressure fuel sensor, Spark plugs, Evap module). Do you think there is need to replace them with newer part yet. i am not a car expert but will ford be able to do it for me and not charge me fortune? The fuel sensor I have read should be the one with notches on the front. Should I replace it yet.? Also about the carbon buildup. Can ford do something called walnut blast to cleanup the buildup or is that something I have to do on my own?. My car is still under factory warranty and also has extended that i bought with it to be on safe side. please let me know. Thanks
Your car should already have the updated fuel sensor, so I wouldn't worry about that. The evap valve is hit or miss whether it craps out or not. You'll likely deal with that as it happens since there's no way to know, and it's pointless to replace it unless it does go bad. Most dealers do offer intake cleaning services, but they generally use liquid solvents to perform the cleaning. You'll have to check around for walnut blasting, but that's something I wouldn't even consider until after 50k miles are on the car.
@@KarzKreated I am not sure if it’s the newer updated sensor. Because it doesn’t have the notches on the base that I have seen in the pictures having the newest one online. About the evap, what’s the symptoms that will show in the car? . Btw the car is like 8400 miles but I just want to be as careful as possible. I also have warranties on it. Thanks for the reply 🙏
Let me clarify what I said there. These cars from the factory are calibrated to achieve max power on 91 octane but will run on as low as 87 octane with reduced power. If you have 93, use it!
So ive been changing my oil with motorcraft synthetic blend thats not good enough i should get pennzoil instead ? I dont like castrol and i cant get amsoil in the autoparts where i live
The Motorcraft oil is decent oil. If you drive the car hard, or if it's making a bit more power than stock, I would suggest using a premium full synthetic. If it's a mostly stock car that you don't beat on, Motorcraft oil is fine. I still recommend changing your oil no later than 5,000 miles regardless of oil brand.
So I have this on my eco 2020 every time I put gas (93) it kind of vibrates (and kind of like it burps) idk of this is normal 🤨 but its every time I put gas on it after that it runs normal but idk if this is good or not
What symptoms were you experiencing wrong with the car? My 23 eco today with 4k miles just had a hiccup at WOT lost power and the check engine light popped on. Dealer can’t get it in until the 20th
87 would be best ve 93, let me tell you why. Most people get 87 due to price. Which means your chances of fresher fuel is greater. You get 93 that's been setting in a underground tank for a long period of time will probably have water in it which is not great for your engine
Ok, the fact that you're saying these motors need maintenance at intervals other cars brands don't, just tells me these ecoboost engines aren't worth having in any context.
I have a 2016 tuned and modded to the moon, the engine blew up at 82K you want it to be reliable. Leave it alone. Maintain it often and it will treat you right there are cars out there with 200k but stock so take care of them. I got forged internals and ARP headstuds and a bunch of goodies plan on rebuilding it soon
Modern diesel (TDCi) is pretty much the same. Some tips: - Start driving once it settles after cold start. - Don't push the engine until it properly warms up. But do start driving so it can get to temp faster. - Use quality fuel, VERY important. Cheap fuel will clog DPF, EGR, everything. - IF you live in a cold climate, you can put a heater in your car! These work off your fuel tank and can both pre-heat your car AND they run until your car gets up to temp, making it reach temps much quicker. My car gets up to temp within minutes, thanks to the Webasto heater I have installed. Amazing stuff, trust me! - This is diesel specific only, but make sure to get your car up to temp on a trip, so it can do regen if it has to. MIND YOU, modern petrol engines that use the Atkinson-cycle are the same, they hate short trips and can wear out and fail much faster if you use it for short trips. I know the video is about the EcoBoost (petrol, direct injected engine) but pretty much same stuff applies.
I've been thinking about getting a Ecoboost mustang for a while, looked at one today. After reading these comments and seeing more videos, I'm having second thoughts. I was thinking "damn, i might buy that Ecoboost." Now I'm thinking "i swear to God, i can not afford an EcoBoom"... Maybe I'll get the V6. Edit: I bought a 2015 V6
I've made an update to this video covering what should be done when you're pushing one of these engines. You can check out that video below ⤵️ 😎
ua-cam.com/video/WVZdHSSCqzI/v-deo.htmlsi=9nkeZyWgYnjOf-FC
After owning my 2017 eco and seeing how reliable it has been up to 101k miles (knock on wood), I can say that these engines are reliable if taken care of! I have beat the living hell out of mine and it’s had no issues. I would definitely buy a second one and have been possibly eyeing a HPP Handling pack if I don’t go for a 5.0
i LOVE LOVE my HPP with Handling Package. No GT thirst here.
Any mods on your eco?
@@CrackaSlapYawhat’s the difference with handling package?
@@piday9633 best rims (same as on current dark horse), better shocks/struts, tuned Chassis Tuning, Magna-ride suspension (best part). Fkn thing handles like my old WRX.
@@CrackaSlapYa That sounds really nice, but have you ever thought it might’ve been a little cheaper to do the additional modding
and stuff yourself? Not trying to sound condescending or anything. I’m just trying to make sure it’s worth the extra 1-2k for something that can’t be done at home or anywhere else for cheaper 😅
I really love my 2.0 ecoboost in my edge. Bought it at 42000 miles. Have 175000 on it now.
did you ever put a catch can?
You are absolutely right on all fronts. You took care of all the possible reasons for the dreaded ecoboom.
My 2015 ecoboost is at 120k miles and there hasn’t been any major problems with it thruoght its lifespan a more than reliable engine i would say still drive it everyday 😌
The 2015 ecoboost 2.0 is NOT the same ecoboost 2.0 in the 2017 - 2024 Ford engines.
@@truewax257 I m thinking of buying a 2.3 Mustang. 2016 or 2017 model. Do you know if it s a difference with the 2.3 engines as well. They all appears to be quite good. I m not buying any modified ones. Only original for me. 300 plus HP is more than enough for me.
Ecosport a2018 titanium automatic 43500 miles fullservice history ford maintained, wanted wet belt replaced told by three dealerships can't do it until the oil light comes on when it does pullover and get AA TO tow you to a ford dealerships, got rid of it! Who wants to drive around in a ticking time bomb. Lovely car engine needed a chain drive. 1000 cc not powerful enough for ecosport to much stain on the engine. In my opinion.
I have a 2020 Mustang Ecoboost which i bought brand new. I have only 33,000 miles on it (I live very close to work). It's been a very very reliable motor for me. I use only high grade full synthetic oil and have it changed religiously.
I love my Stang
Reading through these comments just made me realize that not very many people know how to actually take care of a turbo car. Everything he said applies to pretty much all performance turbo cars.
Also if you wish to avoid the dreaded "carbon buildup" on valves add an oil catch can. This is necessary for all direct injection engines.
That’s why the newest 2.3 eco-boost in the 24 Mustang is way better. It has both port and direct injection.
He is not lying about the bad/low octane fuel. I had to learn that the hard way but was able to surmise that the issue was the low octane fuel when my van started sputtering. EcoBoosts hate low octane. Believe it! Now that I have an EcoBoost I absolutely regret that I did not get a PDFI engine instead.
2014 escape. 2L ecoboost at 310.000km. 10+ year old motor still driving good. Oil changes done every 4 to 5k kms...
Bro this was amazing content! Looking forward to purchasing my first ecoboost soon 🤝🏽
It's a good idea to change the coolant every 50k miles. Currently at 114k milee, 2016 Ecoboost Performance pack, manual, bought it new with 5 miles on the odometer. Acidic coolant will attack the head gasket, and if you've ever seen how much margin there is in the 2.3 head gasket, you definitely don't want that!
Great point!
Watching this after my 2018 Flex Limited Ecoboost (3.5) blew both of its head gaskets and spun both its turbos 🫠
😱 if it makes you feel any better, cylinder 3 exploded in this engine two months after making this video.
The best way I found to avoid any major engine defects on any car I have owned is keep away from the oval emblem that says Ford on it!!!
That too!
Thank you for the reminder about letting the oil warm up👍.
Thanks for the info on oil and spark plugs. Makes sense
Even though I've owned my 2016 Ecoboost since August 2022 with it at 80,000mi (originally at 46,000mi, I got it), its always good to hear from others and see if what I'm doing is match what others say. I tend to make sure oil, coolant, and even the transmission (green at 120F) temp is all in the green, I treat the car like normal. I then tend to put it on the boost gauge to watch my boost, which I knew was going to be the bigger mystery to me. Good vid.
I have never understood why people with a turbo car don't downshift before getting on it. Drop it down a couple of gears and then you're right where the turbo is happy.
lol sometimes you need the torque and gearing
Modern turbos are sized to boost at a much lower rpm than they used to.
@@TheMajictech And yet, they still need time to boost. Jamming the gas in a higher gear won't get the turbo spinning as quickly as a quick downshift will.
@@durwoodrobison7800 and probably 90% of those vehicles are equipped with an automatic transmission with not many having provisions for manual shifting
@@TheMajictech Then the engineers need to program the trasnsmisson properly, but they don't care about the car lasting past the factory warranty, so they won't.
Any car lasts long as long as their properly maintained. It's just that mustangs catches you with your pants down while driving
this video is accurate. I own a '19 Ecoboost 6-speed with the Ecoboost Performance Package, Ford Performance intake and tune. using Shell 93 octane exclusively (or Chevron if there's no Shell station in the vicinity). Motorcraft full synthetic oil every 5k miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. "engine lugging" is driver error for sure.
i haven't done an oil change almost 8 months but i don't drive my eco everyday, should i still do its oil change? I've only put in 3,000 miles since the last oil change.
@@fartin6 Better safe than sorry. My 2019 Ecoboost Mustang is in the shop right now with a blown motor. Carbon built up so Ford denied warranty. They said that I had a antifreeze leak into "Valve #3" that caused the car to hydrolock upon starting the car. They said that the camshaft (I Believe) continued to turn and wrecked the motor. It's a $10,000 mistake that is coming all out of my pocket. The car has 51k miles on it. I am the second owner. Very nice car, but what a hunk of shit. After this car I will never buy another Ford because of Ford Motor Company fucking me when it comes to honoring warranty
@@fartin6 Yes.
How can I tell if the components you mentioned have been replace? Thanks.
That is a lot of extra maintenance for an owner due to Ford incompetence
If you finance a used one get the warranty I got mine at 29,000 miles - the engine block cracked, a cylinder was misfiring and my purge valve cracked. I saved so much money by getting the warranty, not paying anything. It’s a good daily commuter and very economical with decent performance mind you I never intend on “racing” 😂
Thanks. Great video. I'm about to buy a 2021 Ecoboost with 35k miles.
Anyone who owns an AWD Ford must do is change the gear oil in the differential around 10,000 - 15,000 miles and same for the Power Train Unit off of the transmission due to what is called "break in period".. Both of these are small and hold very little fluid. With the PTU generally overheating and causing the fluid to have "viscosity breakdown" from the heat. The PTU is surrounded by the exhaust and catalytic converter. And must be changed every 20,000 to 30,000 miles. A high end gear oil from Redline or Amsoil is also recommended as they perform better under higher temps. Once the differential is changed it can go 60,000 miles between fluid changes.
when you get fuel about 1 gallon will be what the last person purchased so if you stop for a few gallons there's a good chance it will be 87
Great point! Never considered that.
@@KarzKreated i watched a video where gas was collected from pumps all around her area and i was amazed by the findings
Put 1k miles on my new eco and been fueling with 83 and I KNEW I should use 93 so ill change that stat
Definitely! These engines are engineered to run on a minimum of 87 octane. Good quality 93 octane is highly recommended.
Thanks for making this video Kirk!
Your very welcome sir! 💜😎🤙
I bought mine with 92k for 15k after 2,000 miles started having all the ecoboom symptoms plus a piston ring issue
Oh man.. It happens way too much unfortunately. The factory built engine is disposable. What's your plans going forward?
Vey well said, covered all points perfectly!
Thank for you’re videos, you are very helpful.
That is the same for you 2.3l Ranger guys pumping 87. NO, The 2.3l ecoboost is tunes done for 87 but they like 91-93. Your engine will thank you. I run E30 with a tune most of the time on my Ranger. She purrs and stays cool.
Does 88 count if you aren't tuned / swapped to e85?
My 2015 Mustang is completely stock and I always kept up with it. I had coolant intrusion and now I have to replace the entire engine.
Even extensive frequent maintenance can't prevent the inevitable of bad engineering.
@@KarzKreated Right! Least I’m gunna have a new engine with 160 miles on it now😭
I’m also on my 2nd eco 2020 and it’s running great with almost 70k miles!
My Silverado 2.7 turbo I4 has low rpm torque curve comes in at 1500 rpm,under very light throttle it will lug up a hill with out a down shift and no loss of speed, acts just like a Diesel.
That’s a characteristic of a direct injected turbo engine. They make so much torque and do it at relatively low speed, that main bearing wear can be an issue. Better to keep the rpm at least above 2k rpm as the engine. Less tension stress.
I need a link for everything you mentioned that would be awesome 🙏🏾
Me too please like where can i get these upgraded parts
i use liqui moly 10w60 in my 2.3 forged rs engine
What about the coolant intrusion problem on these engines? Ford just told me I need a new long block due to coolant leakage in to cylinder 2. $8000…..help.
Second opinion says no intusion but code p0302 still keeps coming up. All new plugs and coils…..wtf
Sadly, these engines will continue to be plagued by that problem. It's a design flaw that doesn't have an easy fix. The coolant should be checked for exhaust gas contamination. That's likely the best way to tell if the head gasket has failed.
@@KarzKreated apparently it’s not the head gasket. It’s an actual crack in the cylinder. It gets worse over time. I can’t really trade in the car for an appropriate value due to this problem. Ford says new long block is only fix. There is a lawsuit pending but no recall. Apparently there are tens of thousands of these engines out there….1.4 to 2.0. So bad…..look in to it….you won’t believe this crap…
Wasn't this issue fixed with a redesigned block for 2019 models?
@@PatrickMoore13 Correct.
This is excellent information, thank you! I bought a 2020 Eco Mustang with 4 miles on it, has 16K now. I’m 57 and hope it will be my last car, so wish I could speak with someone like you here in Texas to learn more. I checked the sensor P/N and it seems to be the correct one, but did not know about that other part so will check it. The spark plugs tip was completely new to me, so this weekend going to pull them and inspect. Do you think the Ford synthetic blend oil is acceptable? I’ve changed the oil at about 3,000 miles (so about four times now when oil monitor shows about 50% remaining life) and haven’t yet used the 45K points the dealer awarded at purchase, so have been taking to the dealer for the oil changes. I’d like to change it myself in time so will investigate the other oils you mention. I buy only premium fuel but have been getting it at Kroger fuel station because of the fuel points, but if you recommend other name brands like Shell, Chevron, etc. would be glad to know. Don’t plan to mod but would like a catch can, but not overly mechanical and don’t know if I can install it. The only thing I’d like to do in time is upgraded intercooler. Thanks again for the great info. New subscriber here.
The Synthetic Blend your using is fine. You have the oil changed frequently, and you're not planning to drive the car too hard and modify it. So I wouldn't stress too much about it. Catch can is great idea while the car is new. I also wouldn't stress about the intercooler either unless you tune it to run higher boost pressure. The factory intercooler isn't the best, but it works better than not having one at all lol. I appreciate the support!
Thanks, much appreciated. Look forward to exploring the other videos.
What was the second wire called?
2020 Ford Explorer xlt 2.7 ecoboost with 57,000 miles. I got it brand new, zero issues so far. Worried about the overall longevity of the ecoboost. Should I change the spark plugs at 100k miles? Should I be ready to replace the transmission at 100k miles?….Haven’t watched the vid yet lol
I changed them on my SHO @ 60K....change everything early especially the fluids.
@@johndsmith7785 thanks, what’s a SHO?
@@syvallia24 Ford Taurus Super High Output....COP car with the 3.5 dual turbos
Two words man... Wet Belt. Nothing you described fixes that problem. Look int it. You need to have your timing belts changed much more often than prescribed.
What’s with this wide open throttle stuff? I like to go fast with my Ford Flex Ecoboost, but have had no troubles in over 98,000 miles. I feel it is a great engine.
Pretty hard to use wide open throttle around here without getting arrested.
2:32 what’s the name of the piece so I can update mine. I already switched out my fuel sensor towards the end of last year.
EVAP Purge Valve
@@KarzKreated thank you for your answer.
@@titus.o4773 Thanks for asking that
Has anyone had a problem where the car has a problem shifting but only while race accelerating at high gears like past 4th or 5th
I just bought a 2020 EcoBoost that only had 7K miles on it! an upgrade from my 2014 V6 although I'm getting about the same MPG's
That's not an upgrade .
lol have you checked the condition of your valves yet? 😆 your model doesn’t have port injection
i go pick up my first 2016 ecoboost has 87k miles and pick it up on august 10, what should i do right after i pick it up? oil change? transmission fluid change, differential fluid change? not sure what else.
i would just do the timing chain mod
I've got a 15 Ecoboost. My 10speed sounds like a bag of doritos if i floor it
The best way is don't buy an eco BUST!
What is the little tube/valve that runs over the intake of your 2.3 EB? I'm going to check mine (in a Focus Mk3.5 ST so it will be different)
It's the EVAP purge valve
You didn't mention TopTier gas. Change the oil, every year or 5,000 miles, whichever comes first, with a name brand API SN or SP rated oil. An oil catch can isn't a bad idea, but it's not really necessary on a stock, properly maintained engine. If you're pumping up the boost, you'll be increasing the blowby, so add a catch can. The 2.3 ecoboost isn't prone to carbon buildup, on the valves, if properly maintained. Do some research and try to find one, with any symptoms of carbon buildup. It's really hard to find one on the 2.3. The worst ecoboost, for carbon buildup, was the early 3.5. The biggest problem with the 2.3 is that it's an open deck block, with very narrow cylinder to head mating surfaces, for the head gasket to do it's job. It's a really terrible design, for an engine running this much boost stock. It's not a great idea to add more boost to it, without upgrading the head gasket and head bolts. Also, if you've got a 2018 or earlier, it'd be a good idea to upgrade the connecting rods, like Ford did in 2019. For a stock engine that's never been apart, I'd consider retorqueing the head bolts.
Whats the second thing you pointed out. That vacuum hose line on the right side of the engine. What is the replacement upgrade you recommended?
It's the EVAP Purge valve. It's not worth replacing unless it's malfunctioning. It's been recommended to replace it as a precaution. It's not nearly as important as the low pressure fuel sensor.
The oil will take 30 mins to go up to the temperature if you let it just idle. This is impossible to do
Just drive the car easy until the oil is warmed up.
You seem very knowledgeable.
I have a 2021 ecoboost. It rattles when I turn on the A/C and when it’s idle.
Any ideas?
I have been using the cheapest gas and it’s all stock. It has 25k miles
That's weird. That's one of those issues that's really hard to diagnose without looking at it. It could be something loose, or it could be related to the engine directly. Considering it only happens with the ac on, it could have something to do with the ac compressor. Another thing to keep in mind is that the high pressure fuel pump on these engines is loud. When you turn the ac on, the car will adjust idle a little higher by adding some timing to compensate for the ac. Since it's idling a little higher, the cam lobe that operates the high pressure fuel pump spins faster and usually becomes more audible. I doubt it has anything to do with the gas you're using.
Check your belts
I just bought a fiesta 2018, will it boom on me? 😢
What trim level?
Just curious, my 2021 Explorer with 2.3 ecoboost requires 5w30 and my assumption is that this is the case for most ecoboosts. I use full synthetic, and I've never had a problem with oil burn of any sort (and I tow a fishing boat regularly). My question is this, since I live in an extreme climate where it goes down to -40c in the winter, should I consider a different viscosity?
Factory oil viscosity for the 2.3 ranges from 5w30 to 5w50, depending on the application. I would definitely recommend looking into an oil that has great cold flow attributes. It could potentially be beneficial to use a 0w oil during the really cold months. Look up Project Farm on youtube if you don't already know, and watch through his oil test videos. He does a simple cold oil flow test at extreme temperatures.
Look for a block heater cord under your hood. Ford made them standard on most eco boosts for colder climate areas up until very recently. Definitely use it to preheat your engine on very cold start ups.
2:08thanks for this video! It’s great with a Lotta great info, question for this fuel sensor do you know what the correct good part number is? You mentioned to make sure you have the updated part… just fyi, my eco-boost is also a high-performance from 2022.
Also, what’s the updated part part number for this one? 2:33
The updated part # for the fuel sensor is BU5Z-9F972-B
And the updated part # for the fuel vapor hose is FR3Z-9G297-H
Thank you!!!
And this is for your eco-boost high-performance?
What year is yours?
@@ernestoburgues709 Correct. 🙂 My HPP is a 2020.
@@KarzKreated can I put the same parts on my 2019 ecoboost?
and dont go by fords 10k oil change intervals. 8k should be the absolute limit. really should be done sooner.
You never said what the part is called at 2;05. What is it?
Low pressure fuel pump sensor 🙂
@@KarzKreated thx. got my HPP/HP 2020 5 weeks ago and am still getting this dude protected. only 6k miles!
No, the second part / hose? Revised part #?@@KarzKreated
Can you help me out… I’m getting only 12 mpg and I use cruise control a lot of my driving time… why so low and how could I fix that
Are you going over a lot of hills? I’ve never gotten 12 mpg in my eco Id probably cry thinking it’s broken or the eco part fell off and it’s just straight boost lol
Maybe carbon buildup (induction cleaning, spark plug replacement, throttle body)… bad air filter
Cruise control is not always efficient, especially if driving on rolling road grades
Do hypermiling… I could easily get 22-24 mpg on my parents 2014 f150 ecoboost
At 2:19 what is the name of that part? Is that the abs sensor?
Or is that the thermal sensor?
Where can I get the updated low pressure fuel sensor, and also, the revised part you showed right after that???
Please let me know!!!!
Any local dealership will have them, though prices will vary.
You can get them online here - www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-sensor-bu5z9f972b
www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-hose-fuel-vapour-fr3z9g297h
Where did you get the strut tower brace ?? Also the plastic gear shape piece next to the strut tower nuts ?
The brace is a factory piece that came on the car new. The plastic caps are from JLT.
I’ve been using the motocraft synthetic oil for my 2018 explorer limited. Should I switch to a better oil?
Motorcraft oil is decent oil. Just keep the oil change intervals under 5k miles.
What about turn it off immediately after the turbo was in high rep? Do you wait a bit before turning it off?
I also do that. If I see that the oil temp is higher than normal after a hard run, I will let the car idle until the oil temp goes down a little before I shut it off.
just bought my 2016 eco boost with 55k miles on it and runs fantastic. Just curious...to the right of the steering wheel is a black flip up lid with switch under it...any idea what that is?
Could have been for a number of things. Lights, audio equipment, water methanol injection system, or some other electronic controller.
Oh that's the eject button for when you're oil light comes on. 😂
Is it problematic running 91 octane gas with a 91 tune? I'm in California, so there's no 93 avaliable for me here 😢
If you have a 91 specific tune, you should be fine assuming it's a safe tune. 🙂
@@KarzKreated sweet - thank you!
@KarzKreated Hello would you mind identifying the 2 structures your hands are on at minute 2:40 . My 2018 ecoboost seems to be leaving from the 2 and I have a code p0301
Those are the oil control solenoids for the camshaft phasers. There is a rubber seal in the valve cover that's prone to leaking over time. That's likely why you see oil leaking from there. That problem shouldn't cause a P0301 in itself. Pull out the ignition coil from cylinder 1 and see if there's oil in the spark plug hole.
@@KarzKreated thank you so much I will do that .
I have recently gotten a new 2021 ecoboost premium. Rest assured I am gonna well take care of it. Except the first part you mentioned (low pressure fuel sensor, Spark plugs, Evap module). Do you think there is need to replace them with newer part yet. i am not a car expert but will ford be able to do it for me and not charge me fortune? The fuel sensor I have read should be the one with notches on the front. Should I replace it yet.?
Also about the carbon buildup. Can ford do something called walnut blast to cleanup the buildup or is that something I have to do on my own?. My car is still under factory warranty and also has extended that i bought with it to be on safe side. please let me know. Thanks
Your car should already have the updated fuel sensor, so I wouldn't worry about that. The evap valve is hit or miss whether it craps out or not. You'll likely deal with that as it happens since there's no way to know, and it's pointless to replace it unless it does go bad. Most dealers do offer intake cleaning services, but they generally use liquid solvents to perform the cleaning. You'll have to check around for walnut blasting, but that's something I wouldn't even consider until after 50k miles are on the car.
@@KarzKreated I am not sure if it’s the newer updated sensor. Because it doesn’t have the notches on the base that I have seen in the pictures having the newest one online. About the evap, what’s the symptoms that will show in the car? . Btw the car is like 8400 miles but I just want to be as careful as possible. I also have warranties on it.
Thanks for the reply 🙏
10:40 You said not to run 93 in my stock Ecoboost? Why only 91?
Let me clarify what I said there. These cars from the factory are calibrated to achieve max power on 91 octane but will run on as low as 87 octane with reduced power. If you have 93, use it!
People that drive with a heavy foot on the throttle deserve to have a ECO Boom!
im having issue with my mustang eco 18. A noise thud comes and go from passenger side. My transmission hesitate to stop when it hits under 15 mph.
Throttle body or the throttle body sensor
The noise is something else tho
Great video! Do you have a tune on your ecoboost?
No I don't currently. Just a boostmax for a little extra boost, and that's it. I'm planning to tune the car soon.
@@KarzKreated that sounds good. Do you have a Instagram? I'd love to get some tips and advice from you for my mustang ecoboost setup
Sorry I didn't see your last comment. I'm on Instagram and Facebook under the same name.
So ive been changing my oil with motorcraft synthetic blend thats not good enough i should get pennzoil instead ? I dont like castrol and i cant get amsoil in the autoparts where i live
The Motorcraft oil is decent oil. If you drive the car hard, or if it's making a bit more power than stock, I would suggest using a premium full synthetic. If it's a mostly stock car that you don't beat on, Motorcraft oil is fine. I still recommend changing your oil no later than 5,000 miles regardless of oil brand.
From what I’ve heard from yt mechanics, Motorcraft syn blend is good
So I have this on my eco 2020 every time I put gas (93) it kind of vibrates (and kind of like it burps) idk of this is normal 🤨 but its every time I put gas on it after that it runs normal but idk if this is good or not
Sounds like the purge valve I had mentioned in the video. All too common.
What strut tower caps do you have?
JLT 🙂
To much boost and a open deck block.
If an engine has a dedicated name for it's inevitable failure
You probably shouldn't buy a car with that engine
You're not wrong! 😅
I have a 2015, and I feel the car so slow. Any idea ?
just avoid any american made cars. that goes for chinese made coffin on wheels as well.
Even Toyota has more problems now than ever before. Most new cars suck.
dude its a direct injection engine no amount of additive will help!
Carbon can build up around the injector nozzle.
Why is the v6 called ecoboost when theres no boost? Ive never understood that
There are ecoboost engines with 6 cilinders 😂😂😂
Bro lol
Your misunderstanding he is talking about the 2.7 3.5 twin turbos. Not the 3.3 Na
What do you think about liquid Molly full synthetic for this car that’s what I’ve been running for a while
I haven't personally used it, but I know many people do use it and have great results. I only mentioned the oils that I've personally used.
2.3l are da goat everything that aint a 2.3 like them fusions are trash
This the the worst car I’ve ever bought. Head gasket failed on my 2018 mustang before it even hit 80K. I will never buy ford again
My 2023 eco is in the shop currently, only 5k miles :/ My drivetrain gave-out
Oh no! My engine had a catastrophic failure not long after making this video believe or not. What happened to yours?
@KarzKreated Bruh no way, im out here putting my all into you on these tips and you telling me your engine blew 😩😂
@@doubleuutm9955 ain't it a b*tch? Here I am thinking I'm doing myself and everyone a favor by making this video. 😂
@@KarzKreatedI'm about to change my sensor out. What caused the failure on your engine?
What symptoms were you experiencing wrong with the car? My 23 eco today with 4k miles just had a hiccup at WOT lost power and the check engine light popped on. Dealer can’t get it in until the 20th
Wrong.. It has to do with design.
Actually, it has to do with design and MX.
@@davescott9409 It's a semi open deck prone to eating head gaskets. It is a design flaw.
87 would be best ve 93, let me tell you why. Most people get 87 due to price. Which means your chances of fresher fuel is greater. You get 93 that's been setting in a underground tank for a long period of time will probably have water in it which is not great for your engine
Ok, the fact that you're saying these motors need maintenance at intervals other cars brands don't, just tells me these ecoboost engines aren't worth having in any context.
It’s easier for you to just say “I can’t afford an ecoboost” 🙏
@@piday9633even the lincolns aren't at a level of luxury that justifies this level of babying
No such thing as a ecoboost v6
👀😐
Ever heard of an unusual beast in the wild called a new Ford GT with a v6 ecoboost? It's used in the Ford F150 trucks
Are you kidding? The four cylinder design 2015+ is absolutely dreadful!!
15:00 top tier fuel is always recommend ecoboost or not ford or not
I have a 2015, and I feel the car so slow. Any idea ?
Not enough displacement
@@TrashAnywayit's got more power and torque than a q60 but my q60 feels significantly faster
I have a 2016 tuned and modded to the moon, the engine blew up at 82K you want it to be reliable. Leave it alone. Maintain it often and it will treat you right there are cars out there with 200k but stock so take care of them. I got forged internals and ARP headstuds and a bunch of goodies plan on rebuilding it soon
Modern diesel (TDCi) is pretty much the same. Some tips:
- Start driving once it settles after cold start.
- Don't push the engine until it properly warms up. But do start driving so it can get to temp faster.
- Use quality fuel, VERY important. Cheap fuel will clog DPF, EGR, everything.
- IF you live in a cold climate, you can put a heater in your car! These work off your fuel tank and can both pre-heat your car AND they run until your car gets up to temp, making it reach temps much quicker. My car gets up to temp within minutes, thanks to the Webasto heater I have installed. Amazing stuff, trust me!
- This is diesel specific only, but make sure to get your car up to temp on a trip, so it can do regen if it has to. MIND YOU, modern petrol engines that use the Atkinson-cycle are the same, they hate short trips and can wear out and fail much faster if you use it for short trips.
I know the video is about the EcoBoost (petrol, direct injected engine) but pretty much same stuff applies.
I've been thinking about getting a Ecoboost mustang for a while, looked at one today. After reading these comments and seeing more videos, I'm having second thoughts. I was thinking "damn, i might buy that Ecoboost." Now I'm thinking "i swear to God, i can not afford an EcoBoom"... Maybe I'll get the V6.
Edit: I bought a 2015 V6
What if you use 93 premium on a stock car
91 or higher is recommended. 93 is perfect for a stock car.