Nissan Vg33e Hydralic Lifters Replace.
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- Опубліковано 24 лип 2022
- This is showing the replacing of the Nissan vg33e engine Hydraulic tappet lifters into its valve body mounted to the cylinder head. This is the solution a rattling engine at idle or in drive at any rpm. Also See: • How to solve Nissan Ra...
Here is what the Engine sound like with bad, work-out Hydraulic tappet lifters: • Nissan vg33e WORST ENG...
In some cases or event, the engine hydraulic lifter will click has a single detection. when the engine is race in its rpm the clicking will become a rattling from many hydraulic tappet lifters collapsing and smacking internally. The hydraulic tappet lifters must be replaced or the tip of the valve stem and the rocker arm may break or wear. It is very important that the valvetrain remain clean has new, this promote oil slash lubrication and quick oil flow to the oil pan sump. Rattling hydraulic tappet lifters will also cause a DTC P0300 while at idle, this is clue to the engine valves are not opening evenly for equal mixture delivery.
Thank you.
#howto #diy #automotive #sohc #hydraliclifter #vg33e #valvetrain #enginenoise #car #enginerebuilding #cylinderhead #enginerepair #fix - Авто та транспорт
Thank you for this detailed video.
hello mister nice video, question when you changed the lifter did you hold the cams to avoid the timing belt to move ? is there any specific position to do the job ? and did you get new lifters from ebay or bought a good brand ?
Just picked up a 04 xterra month ago and I can’t tell if it rodknocking or lifter slap
So, willl replacing the lifters raise oil pressure ? I just replaced my oil pump after repairing a leak. For preventative maintainence measures I replaced the pump with an OEM one and now I have tappet noise, low oil pressue at idle and at about 1000 rpm the oil pressure light turns off and the tappet sound is gone. I have 160,000 on my Xterra. My old oil pump had zero problems and zero tappet noise. Is it the lifters, the bearings or does the pump have to loosen up ?
There is no reason to replace the oil pump if its producing reccomend oil pressure. The tapping noise is coming from the aluminum rocker arm and it pedestal shaft. We replace all the rocker arm and pedestal shaft to eliminate the noise under all conditions. You oil pump might not be install properly or is leaking internally. The pump should see It states 9psi at idle (700RPM) and 60 psi at 2000RPM
@@SteveXNYC Thankyou so much for the reply ! I should have just left the old one on. The pump's gasket failed so I removed the pump and installed an after market one at first, just as a prevenative maintenance measure. The valve train was clacking horribly so I bought an OEM one that works a whole lot better and only clacks when the engine is cold and at low RPM when it gets hotter it clacks less or is barely or un noticeable.
I do not understand how the pump can be installed improperly. Maybe I am missing something but I am a small engine mechanic and have repaired at least 20,000 small engines. You can never know it all , especially in mechanical things., maybe I need to learn something new.
Thankyou again !
Its might be best to install a oil pressure gauge to ensure oil pressure is present and accurate.
Hi Steve. Did the new lifters fix the clicking noise ?
Yes, all is good. The engine run smooth like babies butt and sound asleep at war. Love the new feel. Be careful of cheap MAF sensors on ebay.
That's great I used ebay lifters and now the drivers side makes a clicking sound when on the gas only at any rpms. I guess I'll look for OEM lifters
If the milage is over 200k. I would suggest you fit a digital oil pressure gauge to the engine to monitor oil pressure when the rattling occurs. That is what I am doing now. At startup the lifters will make a quick noise and then all is quiet.
@@SteveXNYC should the lifters bleed down after a while? I took mine out and laid them upright couple days. I cannot push them down. The new ones can after a few mins after i primed them
You have to use a vise or c-clamp with the srew in press will bleed most of the oil out the lifter, it should be in one of the video.
Does it matter which direction the oiling hole on the side of the lifter is facing?
No, but paid attention to the oil hole on rocker arm Shaft matting with cylinder head.
So you hand torque it? I snapped a rocker bolt today.
That is a big problem. You will need hexacoil fix it. The both are no more than 20ft/lbs plus the hydraulic lifters has to be bleed down so its plunger moves with finger. Good luck, the strip bolt is a headache.
@@SteveXNYC i managed to get it out
Do you have to replace the lifter valve body? I replaced new lifters on a old cam and one of my lifters got chewed where it meets the cam. Lifter is supposed to spin and it had a rough lip
Old passage In the camshaft had to be blocked to prevent oil flow lubrication. If there is no side to side movement with the lifter in the valve it good.
@@SteveXNYC I’m gonna replace the cam and lifters, can the cam journals be cleaned up or polished up by hand? And thank you
Use a can of aerosol brake part cleaner and blow out all the oil hole passage way before installing. Check the valve and make sure the hydraulic lifters are de-compress before installing. Pre-lube the parts with STP oil treatment stabilizer.
ua-cam.com/video/W4jDBT-d91o/v-deo.htmlsi=g41Z4_3K-XUn3QFA
When doing a head gasket job i toqured down to 20 ft lbs will that be fine on the cam or will i need to loosen to 16?
Install the washers between the bolts and cylinder head with
the beveled side up, as shown.
Apply new engine oil to the threads and seating surfaces of
the cylinder head bolts before installation.
Cylinder head bolts No. 4, 7, 9, and 12 (L1) are longer than
the other bolts (L2).
Install the intake manifold and cylinder head at the same time,
using the 14 steps.
Cylinder head and intake manifold nuts and bolts tightening:
Step 1 : tighten cylinder head bolts 29 N·m (3.0 kg-m,
22 ft-lb)
Step 2 : tighten cylinder head bolts 59 N·m (6.0 kg-m,
43 ft-lb)
Step 3 : loosen cylinder head bolts completely
Step 4 : tighten cylinder head bolts 10 N·m (1.0 kg-m,
7 ft-lb)
Step 5 : tighten intake manifold bolts and nuts 4 N·m
(0.4 kg-m, 2.9 ft-lb)
Step 6 : tighten intake manifold bolts and nuts 18
N·m (1.8 kg-m, 13 ft-lb)
Step 7 : tighten intake manifold bolts and nuts 16 -
20 N·m (1.6 - 2.0 kg-m, 12 - 14 ft-lb)
Step 8 : loosen intake manifold bolts and nuts completely
Step 9 : tighten cylinder head bolts 29 N·m (3.0 kg-m,
22 ft-lb)
Step 10 : turn cylinder head bolts 60° to 65° degrees
(clockwise), if an angle wrench is not available,
tighten cylinder head bolts 54 - 64 N·m
(5.5 - 6.5 kg-m, 40 - 47 ft-lb)]
Step 11 : tighten cylinder head sub-bolts 9.0 - 11.8
N·m (0.92 - 1.20 kg-m, 6.7 - 8.7 ft-lb).
Step 12 : tighten intake manifold bolts and nuts 4 N·m
(0.4 kg-m, 2.9 ft-lb).
Step 13 : tighten intake manifold bolts and nuts 9 N·m
(0.9 kg-m, 6.5 ft-lb).
Step 14 : tighten intake manifold bolts and nuts 8 - 10
N·m (0.8 - 1.0 kg-m, 5.8 - 7 ft-lb).
If only the intake manifold is removed and is to be used again,
install it in a three step procedure. Tighten the nuts and bolts
in the numerical.
Intake manifold nuts and bolts tightening steps:
Step 1 : 4 N·m (0.4 kg-m, 2.9 ft-lb)
Step 2 : 9 N·m (0.9 kg-m, 6.5 ft-lb)
Step 3 : 8 to 10 N·m (0.8 - 1.0 kg-m, 5.8 - 7 ft-lb)
@@SteveXNYC I already have the heads down already but I toqured the lifters down at 20 foot pounds I'm asking should I re toqure them to 16 or will it be fine thats the part I'm at before putting the valve cover back on
ua-cam.com/video/W4jDBT-d91o/v-deo.htmlsi=I3CkVhNE61e0fXSf
Rocker arm shaft bolt is tighten to 13-16 ft-lbs
Step 10 is the last step for the cylinder head bolts not including the sub bolts?
Can the valve body be installed backwards?
I.e. firewall side facing the front of the head.