I have aligned my miter gage to the fence using a square. Then I make cross cuts without a problem. I also replaced the factory guides with Carter band saw guides, this helped with some (not all) drift.
That would be a cool mod to make the table mounting holes with circular arcs in their path to twist for blade drift, that is if the bolt pattern was symmetrical to the blade location
I’m gonna shim my table tomorrow! Thanx I had seen the blade twist trick on an old how-to video several years ago... I’ve never had the need to try it. But, thanx for reminding me.
Good information and demonstration! Thanks. I see you have a stand alone power stand for that bandsaw. If you need content. Perhaps you could talk about those. Did you see my comment about wanting to build a power unit onto the lower rails for both the bandsaw and jointer?
Yes, eventually I imagine I will cover everything in my shop. I’m not sure that I saw that comment but why would you want to mount them over the rails?
My Growth Rings Because I don’t use the TS or Lathe feature often. I want to put the drill press up and leave it there (semi Permanent) then I can just step up to it and use it. And with the Bandsaw and Jointer on the lover rails I can also just walk over and use them.
MRrwmac Now I understand. Yes, this should be a relatively simple build. Perhaps I should show you what’s on the back of one of my bandsaw’s. Let me see if I can fit that into the video I will shoot this evening.
No drift on my band saw at all but I have the old steel table (my machine was made in 1956 and I just rescued it as a "Pandemic Project"). I resaw with it a lot with no drift. I also use the rip fence on the saw table as an outfeed support for long resaw work. Another tip you may wish to pass on to folks.
That’s great. I suspect some of that has to do with the prostitution of the table when it was installed. Also that is a very good tip. The 510/20 can do an even better trick. I normally run my bandsaw on a Power Station, but I’ll move it to the Mark V for our mid-week vid. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I look forward to your even better trick. I can get my old Mark V 500 to do a lot of things that it isn't supposed to so like have an outfeed table linked to the regular saw table. So I hope ou have one more challenge for me.
Maybe I have that one in a million outliers in my SS band saw. I don’t get any drift. I’ve used for re-sawing don’t get any. New blades, old blades... don’t seem to matter. The only thing I’ve done to mine is put some cool block guides on it. I keep them adjusted right up to the gullet of the blade. I’ve cut veneers with the 1/4” blade. And some heavier stuff with the 1/2” wide blade. Thanks for the tip in case I ever run into drifting.
Thomas Murphy Actually, if I loosen all four bolts again and rotate the table clockwise, I’m sure I can zero it in for at least the 5/8” blade. Yes, the width isn’t nearly as important as the tooth count and the feed speed. Thanks for watching, Scott
Hey Scott, you mentioned cutting joints on the bandsaw. I would like to see that technical content, in some form say from your UA-cam or a manual that you might recommend. I'm also interested in learning more about the Shopsmith SPTs for example: the jointer, etc. perhaps you could do a series on each tool. I completed the closet organizer, BTW the Boss Lady is happy.
I loved my Shop Smith bandsaw but the depth for what I needed to do it was insufficient. I’ve already upgraded it and it worked fine for what I was doing in the past but I ended up buying a Laguna with 14 inch throat and much much higher capacity for resign. Sold the job with bandsaw to a gentleman that could use it so nothing goes to waste. Well except the small pieces wouldn’t fall off the ends of these things when you’re done cutting.
I know this video is a few years old, but I'm on the verge of giving up the idea of successful resawing on my SS bandsaw. I have done everything you mention in your videos: table alignment, blade squaring, drift compensation, blade guides, blade tension. My efforts have been especially troublesome with freshly cut White Oak, but Black Cherry and Black Walnut have also given me grief. My brand new Timberwolf 4 TPI blade will simply not cut a straight line when using a fence - it bends one way or another, and even acts like I am trying to cut concrete. I tried Nick Engler's method of resawing a small log, and my efforts were wholly unsatisfactory. I thought about buying the Carter guides, but I'm concerned I would just be flushing my $$$. The only time I was able to resaw successfully was when I had milled some Maple stock to where I could cut starter kerfs with my table saw. Can't do that with a log. Weird thing is the same blade will cross-cut wood all the way to the maximum thickness with no trouble at all.
I own several Shopsmith bandsaws and have taught on dozens more over the past 37 years and have never had any of the issues you are encountering, so I must conclude that something is wrong. What is that something? Well, it could be a couple things, but let's eliminate a few. You are using the correct blade, and as long as if it sharp and you aren't feeding too fast that shouldn't be the problem. Can you cut a straight line freehanded or does the blade continually want to change direction? Are the guide blocks set just a paper's thickness away for the blade and are the top and bottom guides in alignment with each other? When the tension is totally removed is the edge of the tension spring/guide flush? Meaning, are we getting the proper tension on the blade? Is the upper wheel tilted back properly, as shown in my video on that subject? Stay with it, we can figure this out. Scott
Scott, the blade was brand new when I put it on a few days ago. I was able to resaw a 24" long White Oak log, but the blade really seemed to struggle with the wood and I ended up having to run all of the resulting slabs through my Dewalt planer to get the faces parallel. I tried again today, and while the top of the cut was mostly straight, the bottom curved terribly. You do bring up a couple of points. I need to recheck and see if the guides are in alignment, and I forgot to check the alignment of the wheels. I will also check the tension spring guide. I'm wondering if resawing White Oak is just too much for my setup. As I mentioned earlier, though, I was cutting some small bowl blanks from logs about 5" in diameter, including White Oak and Apple. I clamped them to my miter gauge to keep them steady, and the cut was smooth and effortless, with the same blade. Scratching my head as to the difference. Tony
If the cut is straight near the top but goes astray as it continues through the board, that's an indication of the blade clogging. This can be caused by feeding too fast, by running the saw too slow, or too many teeth in the wood with undersized gullets. @@tonyturley5942
I always run my bandsaw at the lowest speed on the Greenie. Mine is a 55 model with the poly v upgrade and 1.125 hp motor. I've read that the bandsaw can be run at speeds up to D, but would that work with a 1/2" Timberwolf blade?
Don't forget, there are shortcuts in the video description and "chapters" in the progress bar. Not that I want you to skip anything, but I think we can both admit that I can talk. Once, after church, my dad looked back at me in the car and said "Son, not everything needs to be said!" Clearly, I disagree. Scott
Scott, I could never get satisfactory results when resawing. I have the cast iron table and used the miter gauge as you showed, adjusting for the cut line, and it worked well. I ordered some timber wolf blades, and I’m sure it will give me even better results. One question - if my lock handle works fine when the blade guide is lowered, but is loose when I move the guide up for resawing, what should I adjust to fix it? Great video - thanks again!
Hey Ross. Check this video out: ua-cam.com/video/FyMKTS8yM5c/v-deo.html It should queue up to the 8:04 point, but just in case it doesn't, that's where you'll see the adjustment. Usually, just a slight adjustment will take care of it. Scott
That did the trick - the lock handle is locking again. I really appreciate your knowledge of this machine and your willingness to help us get the most out of it.
Please be aware that Shopsmith charges 4.95 APIECE for those shim washers, plus about $10 shipping. Incidentally, I bought my bandsaw new and assembled from the Columbus Ohio store and it didn't have the shim washers - even the pros miss it sometimes I guess. I'm not complaining, everything is running fine on my 40 year old equipment despite my maintenance ignorance (which I'm overcoming thanks to these videos ..... membership? Of course!)
...and for my money the best response in the "lead-in" arguments IS "I don't care!" as you said. There are times when the blade is new and sharp and the set of the teeth is uniform and the grain of the wood is not contrary, the saw will cut true and no lead-in is needed. As the blade is used and it begins to wear and it changes in subtle ways, lead-in is a fact of life. In a sawmill, where cutting has to be good and true...and the blades are about 8 inches wide, there is a guy working full time in the mill resharpening and resetting teeth all day long, just to make sure the blades are always perfect and fresh every day. Ours is not that shop.
I have the aluminum table, and my bandsaw has only a rear clamp, with plastic cap where the front clamp would go. Is there a way to convert it to a dual clamp?
#2 question - there isn't a mark on the tension indicator scale for a 5/8" blade. So if slightly different tension setting is used each time, would you expect the drift to be different?
The 5/8” blade is tightened to the 1/2” setting. As long as the tension is close to the proper setting you shouldn’t see additional drift, but a loose blade will cause lots of issues!
Another excellent question! The short answer is (in Bugs Bunny’s voice) “Mmmmm... could be“. The biggest factors to consider are, in no particular order: 1.) Proper tension. 2.) Fence alignment. 3.) Tooth count in the cut. 4.) Feed rate. 5.) Blade speed. 6.) distance between upper and lower guides. Yeah, just a few things to consider! Just for fun I have done some ripping on my bandsaw with all four guide blocks completely removed. There was not just drift, but total anarchy! The wood’s grain reeks havoc on the blade with no support whatsoever. Excellent question! Scott
Hey John. As I mentioned to @John Irby, who asked this very question a week ago, the Shopsmith bandsaw is an amazing saw, but it has a unique auto-tracking system that introduces drift that need to be accounted for. The table can be squared, but there will always be drift. Scott
Randy Wolfe That is true of almost every two wheeled bandsaw but is not true of the Shopsmith bandsaw because of the way the blade tracks. It is not centered on the crown of the wheels but instead is running to the back of a cone shaped wheel and against bearings. That varies with the width of the blade and therefore introduces different drift. I own a 14” Delta bandsaw and have used many others and none of them behave the way Shopsmith bandsaws behave.
The way you are doing it is how the cast iron table is designed to work, :) You can change the angle on the miter gauge to match the blade offset, and it is easier and faster than off setting the fence.
Have you seen the igauging bandsaw companion? I have read some interesting reviews about this new item. What is your opinion of this product? Is it worth the $27? Thanks in advance for your thoughts on this gauge.
Critical if you plan on using it to make cuts for joinery, cut curves in thick material, etc.. Not that important for roughing out curves in thin material or resawing.
I have looked at this and videos by another Shopsmith expert on the problem of drift and both have the same outline for the solution. I also see emails from others who state they don't get drift. I've tried the method you describe, using a 5/8 " blace...but, to great consternation and disappointment, I still get drift. SO FRUSTRATING!!! Is there something else that would be causing drift even after using your and the other person's(whom you alluded to) mithod (the same method)??? Thanks for you posts. - JEE from Kansas City
I've done a couple vids on this and there is nothing you can do about drifting on the SS bandsaw except to accommodate for it by adjusting the fence. If you rotate the blade to match the drift you wouldn't have to adjust the fence, but the next blade to install will need to have adjustments made. You cannot follow Alex Snodgrass' method with the SS bandsaw because we cannot adjust the tracking, or or wheel tilt on this saw.
@@MyGrowthRings I have the steel table on my Shopsmith band saw. I am experimenting with making some fancy cutting boards that have some curved accents in them. That is done by making curve cut in the cutting board, actually cutting it in half, then placing a thin strip the thickness of the band saw kerf between the two pieces and gluing the pieces back together. The thickness of the kerf is .036, as I measured the kerf width. I would like to attempt to cut this piece on the bandsaw but don't know how to measure those on that steel table.
Ok, now I follow. If you have the Shopsmith miter gauge you’ll use that as a rip fence, but first you’ll have to set it to accommodate the blade drift. Let me see if I can track down a good video for you.
My Growth Rings I don’t understand. If the workpiece is held against the miterbar face is that not the same as the bandsaw fence? By the way - I am quite intrigued by the (to me) revelations about the bandsaw. For some reason I never took it as a serious piece of equipment, one that deserved adjustments, tuning, proper use it deserves. My attitude has certainly changed. I say thank you.
With my 5/8" blade, I had to adjust the fence by 10 degrees. Seems extreme to me. (using bolt under fence.) That was using 3/4" ply as the test piece. Cutting a 5 1/2" cube in half the drift seemed even greater. Does this make sense?
It sure does, Hal. I’ll talk more about this mid-week, but I think you should consider loosening the table bolts and rotate the table in the direction that will eliminate the bulk of the drift. After doing that you will find that the fence will need far less adjustment. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings The Miter bar slot seems to be parallel to the blade. Determined by putting square against the miter gauge fence at 90 degrees. Adjust the table anyway?
Why was it unsquare, to start with? As to sawing, it may be because of a bad design. Put it on Craigslist and get a good bandsaw. You might even be able to trade it foe a miter saw.
Hey John. The Shopsmith bandsaw is an amazing saw, but it has a unique auto-tracking system that introduces drift that need to be accounted for. The table can be squared, but there will always be drift. I own about a dozen bandsaws, including a 14” Delta, but I’ll reach for the Shopsmith bandsaw any time I’m cutting anything 6” and under. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I have a Shopsmith V and about all the attachments. While it is good at everything, it is not the best at anything. It is sort of the Swiss pocket knife of woodworking tools.
@@MyGrowthRings Yeah, I have the bandsaw, table saw, scroll saw, jointer, belt sander, and more accessories than I can think of right now. I am able to freehand, like you did in the video. I can't think of the make, but I have 2 new blades for the bandsaw. The scroll saw is the most aggravating tool I have.
This issue has been bothering me for a while and I have not been satisfied with other explanations, so thank you! Very helpful.
Glad to help. Yeah, there’s a lot of confusing and conflicting info out there. Scott
Picking my bandsaw up today. This video was super helpful
That’s exciting, Joey! Take time to set it up and she should serve you well. Scott
I have aligned my miter gage to the fence using a square. Then I make cross cuts without a problem. I also replaced the factory guides with Carter band saw guides, this helped with some (not all) drift.
Very good.
Thanks for solving the mystery of my bandsaw drift. It's always be frustrating!
My pleasure
That would be a cool mod to make the table mounting holes with circular arcs in their path to twist for blade drift, that is if the bolt pattern was symmetrical to the blade location
Actually, there’s enough play that I should be able to get it a bit closer than it is. That would be a cool mod, though. Scott
I’m gonna shim my table tomorrow! Thanx
I had seen the blade twist trick on an old how-to video several years ago... I’ve never had the need to try it. But, thanx for reminding me.
I suggest either not doing it or plan on dedicating a blade to it, because it’s not gentile on the blade one bit! Scott
What situation calls for twisting the blade?
@@tzavitz It allows you to turn a long board sideways and cut through it without the end of the board hitting the saw case.
Wonderful! Thanks!
You are welcome, Larry. Scott
Nicely done!
Thanks John.
Good information and demonstration! Thanks. I see you have a stand alone power stand for that bandsaw. If you need content. Perhaps you could talk about those. Did you see my comment about wanting to build a power unit onto the lower rails for both the bandsaw and jointer?
Yes, eventually I imagine I will cover everything in my shop. I’m not sure that I saw that comment but why would you want to mount them over the rails?
My Growth Rings Because I don’t use the TS or Lathe feature often. I want to put the drill press up and leave it there (semi Permanent) then I can just step up to it and use it. And with the Bandsaw and Jointer on the lover rails I can also just walk over and use them.
MRrwmac Now I understand. Yes, this should be a relatively simple build. Perhaps I should show you what’s on the back of one of my bandsaw’s. Let me see if I can fit that into the video I will shoot this evening.
No drift on my band saw at all but I have the old steel table (my machine was made in 1956 and I just rescued it as a "Pandemic Project"). I resaw with it a lot with no drift.
I also use the rip fence on the saw table as an outfeed support for long resaw work. Another tip you may wish to pass on to folks.
That’s great. I suspect some of that has to do with the prostitution of the table when it was installed. Also that is a very good tip. The 510/20 can do an even better trick. I normally run my bandsaw on a Power Station, but I’ll move it to the Mark V for our mid-week vid. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I look forward to your even better trick. I can get my old Mark V 500 to do a lot of things that it isn't supposed to so like have an outfeed table linked to the regular saw table. So I hope ou have one more challenge for me.
Maybe I have that one in a million outliers in my SS band saw. I don’t get any drift. I’ve used for re-sawing don’t get any. New blades, old blades... don’t seem to matter. The only thing I’ve done to mine is put some cool block guides on it. I keep them adjusted right up to the gullet of the blade. I’ve cut veneers with the 1/4” blade. And some heavier stuff with the 1/2” wide blade. Thanks for the tip in case I ever run into drifting.
Thomas Murphy Actually, if I loosen all four bolts again and rotate the table clockwise, I’m sure I can zero it in for at least the 5/8” blade. Yes, the width isn’t nearly as important as the tooth count and the feed speed. Thanks for watching, Scott
Hey Scott, you mentioned cutting joints on the bandsaw. I would like to see that technical content, in some form say from your UA-cam or a manual that you might recommend. I'm also interested in learning more about the Shopsmith SPTs for example: the jointer, etc. perhaps you could do a series on each tool. I completed the closet organizer, BTW the Boss Lady is happy.
All I can say about your suggestion is that great minds think alike. Happy to hear that the boss is happy! That's always a plus. Scott
What's the name of these black things that holding the blade in it's place ?
They are called guide blocks. Scott
I loved my Shop Smith bandsaw but the depth for what I needed to do it was insufficient. I’ve already upgraded it and it worked fine for what I was doing in the past but I ended up buying a Laguna with 14 inch throat and much much higher capacity for resign. Sold the job with bandsaw to a gentleman that could use it so nothing goes to waste. Well except the small pieces wouldn’t fall off the ends of these things when you’re done cutting.
Don’t you love the voice control of these phones. Higher capacity for Resaw. Job???
I know this video is a few years old, but I'm on the verge of giving up the idea of successful resawing on my SS bandsaw. I have done everything you mention in your videos: table alignment, blade squaring, drift compensation, blade guides, blade tension. My efforts have been especially troublesome with freshly cut White Oak, but Black Cherry and Black Walnut have also given me grief. My brand new Timberwolf 4 TPI blade will simply not cut a straight line when using a fence - it bends one way or another, and even acts like I am trying to cut concrete. I tried Nick Engler's method of resawing a small log, and my efforts were wholly unsatisfactory. I thought about buying the Carter guides, but I'm concerned I would just be flushing my $$$. The only time I was able to resaw successfully was when I had milled some Maple stock to where I could cut starter kerfs with my table saw. Can't do that with a log. Weird thing is the same blade will cross-cut wood all the way to the maximum thickness with no trouble at all.
I own several Shopsmith bandsaws and have taught on dozens more over the past 37 years and have never had any of the issues you are encountering, so I must conclude that something is wrong. What is that something? Well, it could be a couple things, but let's eliminate a few. You are using the correct blade, and as long as if it sharp and you aren't feeding too fast that shouldn't be the problem. Can you cut a straight line freehanded or does the blade continually want to change direction? Are the guide blocks set just a paper's thickness away for the blade and are the top and bottom guides in alignment with each other? When the tension is totally removed is the edge of the tension spring/guide flush? Meaning, are we getting the proper tension on the blade? Is the upper wheel tilted back properly, as shown in my video on that subject? Stay with it, we can figure this out. Scott
Scott, the blade was brand new when I put it on a few days ago. I was able to resaw a 24" long White Oak log, but the blade really seemed to struggle with the wood and I ended up having to run all of the resulting slabs through my Dewalt planer to get the faces parallel. I tried again today, and while the top of the cut was mostly straight, the bottom curved terribly. You do bring up a couple of points. I need to recheck and see if the guides are in alignment, and I forgot to check the alignment of the wheels. I will also check the tension spring guide. I'm wondering if resawing White Oak is just too much for my setup. As I mentioned earlier, though, I was cutting some small bowl blanks from logs about 5" in diameter, including White Oak and Apple. I clamped them to my miter gauge to keep them steady, and the cut was smooth and effortless, with the same blade. Scratching my head as to the difference. Tony
I forgot to mention, I can almost cut a straight line, but there is some wandering.
If the cut is straight near the top but goes astray as it continues through the board, that's an indication of the blade clogging. This can be caused by feeding too fast, by running the saw too slow, or too many teeth in the wood with undersized gullets. @@tonyturley5942
I always run my bandsaw at the lowest speed on the Greenie. Mine is a 55 model with the poly v upgrade and 1.125 hp motor. I've read that the bandsaw can be run at speeds up to D, but would that work with a 1/2" Timberwolf blade?
Any tips or ways to maximize the use of the older cast iron table version?
Good question. A saw with a cast iron table might just make an appearance in the mid-week Stumped.video. Scott
Don't forget, there are shortcuts in the video description and "chapters" in the progress bar. Not that I want you to skip anything, but I think we can both admit that I can talk. Once, after church, my dad looked back at me in the car and said "Son, not everything needs to be said!" Clearly, I disagree. Scott
Scott, I could never get satisfactory results when resawing. I have the cast iron table and used the miter gauge as you showed, adjusting for the cut line, and it worked well. I ordered some timber wolf blades, and I’m sure it will give me even better results. One question - if my lock handle works fine when the blade guide is lowered, but is loose when I move the guide up for resawing, what should I adjust to fix it? Great video - thanks again!
Hey Ross. Check this video out: ua-cam.com/video/FyMKTS8yM5c/v-deo.html It should queue up to the 8:04 point, but just in case it doesn't, that's where you'll see the adjustment. Usually, just a slight adjustment will take care of it. Scott
That did the trick - the lock handle is locking again. I really appreciate your knowledge of this machine and your willingness to help us get the most out of it.
Please be aware that Shopsmith charges 4.95 APIECE for those shim washers, plus about $10 shipping. Incidentally, I bought my bandsaw new and assembled from the Columbus Ohio store and it didn't have the shim washers - even the pros miss it sometimes I guess. I'm not complaining, everything is running fine on my 40 year old equipment despite my maintenance ignorance (which I'm overcoming thanks to these videos ..... membership? Of course!)
Yes, I've seen this step missed by the best in the business. Your local hardware store should have shim washers for a few pennies a piece. Scott
Awesome!
Thanks!
...and for my money the best response in the "lead-in" arguments IS "I don't care!" as you said. There are times when the blade is new and sharp and the set of the teeth is uniform and the grain of the wood is not contrary, the saw will cut true and no lead-in is needed. As the blade is used and it begins to wear and it changes in subtle ways, lead-in is a fact of life.
In a sawmill, where cutting has to be good and true...and the blades are about 8 inches wide, there is a guy working full time in the mill resharpening and resetting teeth all day long, just to make sure the blades are always perfect and fresh every day. Ours is not that shop.
Your "Lead-Out" is funny. LOL
Wouldn’t that be sweet, though?
I have the aluminum table, and my bandsaw has only a rear clamp, with plastic cap where the front clamp would go.
Is there a way to convert it to a dual clamp?
I don’t believe so. That was a first generation fence. You could probably sell it on eBay and pick up a new one.
#2 question - there isn't a mark on the tension indicator scale for a 5/8" blade. So if slightly different tension setting is used each time, would you expect the drift to be different?
The 5/8” blade is tightened to the 1/2” setting. As long as the tension is close to the proper setting you shouldn’t see additional drift, but a loose blade will cause lots of issues!
and lastly #3 - as you raise the blade guard (with bearing and guide blocks) to accommodate different wood thickness, will drift change?
Another excellent question! The short answer is (in Bugs Bunny’s voice) “Mmmmm... could be“. The biggest factors to consider are, in no particular order: 1.) Proper tension. 2.) Fence alignment. 3.) Tooth count in the cut. 4.) Feed rate. 5.) Blade speed. 6.) distance between upper and lower guides. Yeah, just a few things to consider! Just for fun I have done some ripping on my bandsaw with all four guide blocks completely removed. There was not just drift, but total anarchy! The wood’s grain reeks havoc on the blade with no support whatsoever. Excellent question! Scott
Trouble finding shims as im trying to tune up my second hand SSBS. Any suggestions?
Shopsmith. They sell them alone as as part of the Help Kit. If not there, perhaps on eBay.
Do you have to make the bandsaw fence adjustment every time you change the blade?
Hey John. As I mentioned to @John Irby, who asked this very question a week ago, the Shopsmith bandsaw is an amazing saw, but it has a unique auto-tracking system that introduces drift that need to be accounted for. The table can be squared, but there will always be drift. Scott
You forgot to say why you skew the blade. It's so you can cut to the center of a board longer than the throat of the SS bandsaw.
Did I? Perhaps I edited that part out.
@@MyGrowthRings Pretty sure you did...but that's material for your "stumped" this week!
Mike King You got that right!
Why not just the table to align the miter slot parallel to the blade? Then there is no need to skew the rip fence and the miter gauge can be used too.
Randy Wolfe That is true of almost every two wheeled bandsaw but is not true of the Shopsmith bandsaw because of the way the blade tracks. It is not centered on the crown of the wheels but instead is running to the back of a cone shaped wheel and against bearings. That varies with the width of the blade and therefore introduces different drift. I own a 14” Delta bandsaw and have used many others and none of them behave the way Shopsmith bandsaws behave.
I have the older table and have no rip fence
I use the miter gauge where they Long straight board is there a better way without a rip fence
The way you are doing it is how the cast iron table is designed to work, :) You can change the angle on the miter gauge to match the blade offset, and it is easier and faster than off setting the fence.
I think your method is a great one, and that miter gauge as a fence works very well.
Have you seen the igauging bandsaw companion? I have read some interesting reviews about this new item. What is your opinion of this product? Is it worth the $27? Thanks in advance for your thoughts on this gauge.
I looked at it but decided that the Carter Fast Setup Bars gave me more of what I was looking for in a tool like this.
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks for the advice. Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours!!!
@@stased7343 Back at you!
What balde do you prefer with the shopsmith bandsaw?
I use Timber Wolf blades. They’ve seen consistently excellent and I’ve been buying them for over 25 years. Scott
How do you attach the Fence to the table?
Hey Larry. The aluminum table doesn't come with a fence rail, so one is supplied with the fence.
How important is it to shim the front of the table to get it perpendicular to the blade?
Critical if you plan on using it to make cuts for joinery, cut curves in thick material, etc..
Not that important for roughing out curves in thin material or resawing.
rdhelm I agree with what Mark said.
Hi
Just a thought, why is your bandsaw too fence back to front?
Huh?
I have looked at this and videos by another Shopsmith expert on the problem of drift and both have the same outline for the solution. I also see emails from others who state they don't get drift. I've tried the method you describe, using a 5/8 " blace...but, to great consternation and disappointment, I still get drift. SO FRUSTRATING!!! Is there something else that would be causing drift even after using your and the other person's(whom you alluded to) mithod (the same method)???
Thanks for you posts.
- JEE from Kansas City
I've done a couple vids on this and there is nothing you can do about drifting on the SS bandsaw except to accommodate for it by adjusting the fence. If you rotate the blade to match the drift you wouldn't have to adjust the fence, but the next blade to install will need to have adjustments made. You cannot follow Alex Snodgrass' method with the SS bandsaw because we cannot adjust the tracking, or or wheel tilt on this saw.
How do you set the thickness of the cut on the steel table? I'm trying to make cuts the thickness if my band saw blade. which is about .036 inches.
I’m not sure that I know what you mean. How do you cut to a particular size?
@@MyGrowthRings I have the steel table on my Shopsmith band saw. I am experimenting with making some fancy cutting boards that have some curved accents in them. That is done by making curve cut in the cutting board, actually cutting it in half, then placing a thin strip the thickness of the band saw kerf between the two pieces and gluing the pieces back together. The thickness of the kerf is .036, as I measured the kerf width. I would like to attempt to cut this piece on the bandsaw but don't know how to measure those on that steel table.
Ok, now I follow. If you have the Shopsmith miter gauge you’ll use that as a rip fence, but first you’ll have to set it to accommodate the blade drift. Let me see if I can track down a good video for you.
OK, I wasn’t able to find a video discussing this so I will make that tonight‘s video. Keep an eye out for it. Scott
@@billmcdermott1630 Ok, I've just posted this video: ua-cam.com/video/2W99T1GjZ14/v-deo.html
But - but!!
You can adjust the miter gauge. No?
Yes, but it may not travel in line with the drift angle of the blade.
But?!!? Can the miter gauge not be turned to match the fence angle?
Not really. You can angle the face to match the drift, but you can’t change the angle that the bar is guiding through the cut.
My Growth Rings
I don’t understand.
If the workpiece is held against the miterbar face is that not the same as the bandsaw fence?
By the way - I am quite intrigued by the (to me) revelations about the bandsaw. For some reason I never took it as a serious piece of equipment, one that deserved adjustments, tuning, proper use it deserves. My attitude has certainly changed. I say thank you.
John Rice I think I need to shoot another video for you.
@@MyGrowthRings
There’s something I’m not “seeing” for sure.😵💫
With my 5/8" blade, I had to adjust the fence by 10 degrees. Seems extreme to me. (using bolt under fence.) That was using 3/4" ply as the test piece. Cutting a 5 1/2" cube in half the drift seemed even greater. Does this make sense?
It sure does, Hal. I’ll talk more about this mid-week, but I think you should consider loosening the table bolts and rotate the table in the direction that will eliminate the bulk of the drift. After doing that you will find that the fence will need far less adjustment. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings The Miter bar slot seems to be parallel to the blade. Determined by putting square against the miter gauge fence at 90 degrees. Adjust the table anyway?
Hal Mann Yes, because it’s more important that it be parallel to the cut then to the blade. If that makes any sense. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings yes indeed.
Why was it unsquare, to start with? As to sawing, it may be because of a bad design. Put it on Craigslist and get a good bandsaw. You might even be able to trade it foe a miter saw.
Hey John. The Shopsmith bandsaw is an amazing saw, but it has a unique auto-tracking system that introduces drift that need to be accounted for. The table can be squared, but there will always be drift. I own about a dozen bandsaws, including a 14” Delta, but I’ll reach for the Shopsmith bandsaw any time I’m cutting anything 6” and under. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I have a Shopsmith V and about all the attachments. While it is good at everything, it is not the best at anything. It is sort of the Swiss pocket knife of woodworking tools.
@@johnirby493 Do you have the bandsaw?
@@MyGrowthRings Yeah, I have the bandsaw, table saw, scroll saw, jointer, belt sander, and more accessories than I can think of right now. I am able to freehand, like you did in the video. I can't think of the make, but I have 2 new blades for the bandsaw. The scroll saw is the most aggravating tool I have.
Reaching over the table and past the band saw blade to turn the machine off somewhere behind the table......not my idea of safety.
You could reach under the table. ;)
It is far less awkward when there isn’t a tripod in my way!
Instead of drawing a line on table couldn’t you just slide fence to it and lock it in.
You can try it, but as you adjust the angle of the fence it tends to push the wood. It night work, but I find the line method works easy enough. Scott
Using your fingertip and not a push stick at the end of the veneer cut? Really? C'mon Scott.
Always someone.Thanks Karen
@@delxmax Karen? Who's Karen?
I was pushing the 5/8” or so of board, not the thin part, but know your comfort level and stay within it. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Like a doctor who smokes. Lol
Chad Nevels How so?