Shopsmith Bandsaw Blade Change
Вставка
- Опубліковано 3 бер 2024
- The Shopsmith Bandsaw is an awesome saw, but only when equipped with the proper blade. Now, how do you change that blade again? In this video we'll walk you through the steps and I'll prove to myself once again why I prefer Timber Wolf bandsaw blades.
✅ Visit www.MyGrowthRings.com and join the conversation by becoming a FREE Channel Member! Details under "Explore Channel Membership".
A few links that might be of interest:
🟢 Here's my go-to 1/4" Timber Wolf bandsaw blade: amzn.to/3lcuf4L
🟢 This is the blade I use for resawing, the Timber Wolf 1/2" x 72" 4 TPI bandsaw blade for the Shopsmith bandsaw: amzn.to/34ShtU5
🟢 Blue Max tire from Amazon: amzn.to/2ZjbZxE
🟢 Blue Max tire from eBay: ebay.us/cMtMpI
🟡 Orange tire from eBay (I have reservations with this one): ebay.us/rRk4aR
🟢 A generic search for 11" Shopsmith bandsaw tire on Amazon: amzn.to/2ZfR3HV
🟢 A generic search for 11" Shopsmith bandsaw tire on eBay: ebay.us/f5BQar
🟢 My favorite polycarbonate face shield: amzn.to/3qyIK5S
🎬 Here's the video where I installed the Carter ball bearing guides: • Installing Carter "Upg...
🎬 Here's the video where I installed the new tires: • Installing 2 Brands of...
www.MyGrowthRings.com (It's finally really a thing!)
Follow on Instagram @MyGrowthRings
I also blog at www.tool-hunter.com/shopsmith-...
and shopsmith-tool-hunter.blogspot...
A few viewers have requested I provide affiliate links to help them find the products I use and as a way of supporting the channel through commission. For example, as an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases made through the links I provide. If you purchase a product or service through these links, there is NO additional charge to you. I always recommend shopping around for a better price. Thank you for supporting My Growth Rings!
#Shopsmith #ShopsmithBandsaw #BandsawBladeChange
Like the update on both tires. I’m using the orange ones from Shopsmith. They are holding up…. 🎉
Two comments: 1) I've found that some skinny blades cut better with the waste on the left side of the blade (turn the work CW) and some work better with the waste on the right side (turn the work CCW) assuming there's room in the saw throat for the work.
2) Most of the time, I don't even try to cut a full circle. I roughly whack off the corners with the chop saw or bandsaw, making an approximate octagon then turn down to round. When my gouge is sharp, I find it easier than trying to saw a careful circle. If the gouge isn't sharp, I sharpen it. Remember, "If it's almost sharp, it'll almost cut."
The wonderful thing about this hobby is that if you get the shape you want, nobody cares how you got there.
Very good points. I didn’t bother to check to see if there was a burr on the back edge of the blade, which they’re probably is, which would contribute to some of the issues I had. I have to admit, I rarely use a carbon, steel blade, and I forget About how frustrating they can be.
Excellent video, Scott. I learned and liked the tip about installing the blade with the guard in place. I was fortunate enough to win a 1/4" blade at the Shopsmith 75th Anniversary dinner and just decided to install it a few weeks ago. Wow, that thing cuts wood like a hot knife through butter! I was extremely impressed with it. I didn't even realize that my old blade was getting dull until I started cutting with the new one.
Thank you for taking the time to make a bandsaw blade change video.
You are welcome.
Scott, another great video with some quick and easy tips. As a side note I purchased my Shopsmith & bandsaw 20+ years ago. The bandsaw tires were the original black tires. They really had some deep checks in them. On a whim I applied belt dressing to both tires. The tires "healed". I continue to annually apply belt dressing and the tires are still working great. I know this sounds odd. But the belt dressing worked.
Was that a spray belt dressing?
@@MyGrowthRings Yes it was.
@@stased7343 what brand?
Scott, thanks for this video! It is straight forward and clear. As I new owner of a Mark 7, I really appreciate it!
@@user-ww7df5jv8o You are welcome and happy to hear it!
Because you have those awesome Carter bearing guides! I love em too!
Another feature is the adjustable insert. A self made or the SSmith insert can be made to sit flush. Super video.🤜🤛
Good watching you again Scott
Thanks, I appreciate that
Thanks
Just in time! I needed to replace a couple of blades. Thanks for posting the links to the Timber Wolf blades you use.
Glad to help
Seeing both color tires makes me happy. I have the orange and have had no issues. And some people deride the orange tires but then seem to have problems with the blue tires. My thought is that if the tires are easy to install, there’s something wrong.
There might be something to that!
Ok, so which one should I get? I need new because I'm going through my dad's old shopsmith after 25 years of sitting. We just never really used it. The band just broke while I was trying to cut some maple so I could have smaller pieces to turn on the lathe to make pipe stems.
@@hisnameisiam808 I’d suggest getting whichever one you want, but make sure that if the tires aren’t a good fit, you can send them back.
@@timbo389 ok, thanks! They both work for both wheels, right?
@@hisnameisiam808 yes, they do.
Thanks Scott
Great Video!
Love my SS Bandsaw. Right now, I have a ¼” blade in it and haven’t seen a reason to change it out.
OMG, I have that bolt for holding the table flat but didn’t know what it was for. It’s just laying loose in the box of stuff. I went to the shop to look at the table and yes, it’s not installed. On the parts diagram, those are parts 88 (Knurled Nut) and 89 (Carriage Bolt)
I didn’t know about adjusting the blade guides. Good to know.
It’s these little nuggets that make these videos teach me things.
This is content that I love.
That’s awesome, Jody. Thanks for watching and commenting. Scott
I don’t have the SS bandsaw. I have a Jet. I was not having good results with it and an old acquaintance of mine showed me how to get it set up and he said he always puts the blade behind the crown of the wheel, even when the manual says otherwise. I’ve run mine both ways (behind the crown (SS) and centered over the crown (Jet, Rigid, etc.)) and I get far superior results setting up the way SS recommends their saw be set up.
Yeah, that’s also the way Alex Snodgrass advocates.
Scott, just to clarify for the new folks, and those of us who have forgotten. Where did you get those neat bearing guides, and blue tires? Add the links if you could, please.
Will do. Thanks for the reminder.
I haven’t watched this video yet, but I followed MGR’s bandsaw tune up & it changed everything to the better. New blades, new guides, right tension, etc. i get perfectly straight cuts without trying! My biggest down fault is that i don’t de-tension my blade …….i always think I’ll be using it soon.
I do the same almost every time.
And now watching….removing the blade. That nice trick of rotating 90 degrees! Is key to fumbling around the guard.
One question. Recommended speed is 900 rpm per the SS guides. I always cut at 900, but should i be changing depending on blade size or wood thickness/hardness?
@@markb8954 I almost always run my saw at "D", which is roughly 1000rpms. That gives me a blade speed of close to 3000fpm, which is what most of the Timber Wolf blades are made to travel.
Thanks for another very informative video! Question, then a cheap shop...You didn't say why you don't like that brand of blade. And now for the cheap shot: How can you judge the performance of the band saw with new tires when you mix the tires -one blue and one orange on the same bandsaw? You might find the really bad one if it falls off, but otherwise you have too many variables.
BTW, Shopsmith just send out emails announcing a weekend thing in May.
Good questions, Jim. The reason why I don’t like that brand of blades is it began to wander as I made the cut, which doesn’t happen with Timber Wolf blades. The reason for the mismatched tires, is just in case one Baw received more use than another, I wanted to see how they performed. I have the orange tire on the top of a different bandsaw with the blue tire running on the bottom wheel. That way, regardless, of which saw I’m using both tires are getting equal use.
Great video.
Are bearing guides a worthwhile upgrade over Cool Blocks?
Also, thank you for explaining what the carriage bolt and thumb screw are for. I removed mine as I couldn't figure out its purpose. Now that I know what it's for I'll put it back.
I’m ok with either option, but with the bearings you’ll never have to mess with them again.
Why didn’t you like the way the Olson (Great Name) and Bosch blades cut over the Timberwolf?
Because of the steel that is used, and the quality of the grind of the teeth, the Timberwolf blades are just far superior over common carbon steel blades. That Bosch blade was just a total piece of garbage.
My blades--all SS--want to jump off the wheels while installing them. I coil my blades for storage. Would hanging them without coiling mitigate that? Adjusting the location of the blade guides forward and back is much harder than it was on yours. Do they need cleaning and/or lubrication? And, I have an awful time getting my circular blade cover back in the table. I'll watch the follow up video and see if you have answers there. Thanks!!!
I’ve never noticed any difference in their performance based on the way they are stored. However, I have had some blades damaged while uncoiling them, not to mention quite a number of cuts. That doesn’t happen when I store them open. Yes, I would suggest that you clean and lubricate them occasionally. I did post a video on that process sometime back. If you’re insert is the same as mine, I did a video on that as well! There’s a bit of a trick to it and I share that trick in that video. Scott.
Thanks for the video Scott. I always seem to have the blade flex when I'm cutting. This gives me a tapered cut resulting in the bottom being smaller than the top. Am i going to fast or is that a sign of a misaligned blade? Thanks
Is the issue happening when you are cutting freehand or with a fence? If the blade is drifting, it can be one of several things, including using to find a tooth blade. If you haven’t tried a higher quality blade than the standard, Shopsmith blade, you want to check them out Because they are a dramatic improvement over the carbon steel blades most folks use. Scott.
In your bandsaw tuning video you put the tensioner back on but you don't mention how it should be calibrated. Is the left edge supposed to be at 90° from the ground? Is the right side supposed yo be? Parallel with the blade? I can't find s source explaining that.
Man, there's always one more thing. Yes, the stamped steel part with the measurements on it would be calibrated by removing all the tension first with the tension off the top left side of that steel gauge should be flush with the red edge of the flat steel spring. If it is off, you loosen the screws that hold the gauge in place and move it to align with the edge. That's it. Scott
I noticed you don’t have a hole drilled out of the back of the Bandsaw so you can get to the tension adjustment. Is there a reason you don’t have the hole?
I never saw the need. Removing the cover just isn’t inconvenient for me.
Scott, were you storing the re-saw blade under tension?
Always. I’m really bad about that, but I use it often and I find that the urethane tires don’t have the same issues with compression as the rubber tires.
I noticed that your 1/2" blade had little or no drift. Luck of the draw? Or do you do something to your blades to reduce drift.
It did have a touch of drift, I’m just familiar with that blade and instinctively adjusted slightly for it.
@@MyGrowthRings Got it. I have quite a lot of drift with my Timberwolf resaw blade. Like you, I instinctively adjust whenever I'm using it.
hey scott; didn't know how else to ask... can't find the set screws for the way tubes...what am i possibly missing...thanks tony
Tony, Check this parts diagram out and find the part number from the list below the diagram. shopsmith.com/service-parts/mark-v-bench Shopsmith sells all their set screws if you can’t find them locally. Scott
scott apreciate the reply..i can't find evidence of any threade hole for the nway tubes..thought maybe paint covering ..nada@@MyGrowthRings
@@tonyvolbeda952 Depending upon how old your machine is, it may be accessible from the bottom. The set screws on the bottom of the tilting end can be a bear to access, so you'll need a long 5/32" hex wrench.
thanks for get back... did raise theunit ..will look more carefull thanks... can see why you're so popular@@MyGrowthRings
@@tonyvolbeda952 Let me know if you continue to have issues and happy sawdust production! Scott
timber wolf blades is the only way to go. they last forever.