I started lining my unfinished garage with french cleats 6" apart, screwed directly to the studs. So every so often I batch out some 8' french cleats. I generally get a sheet of 3/4" plywood (nowadays 11/16" or 17mm) and have the store use their table or panel saw to cut it in 6" strips (5 7/8" due to kerf). On the Shopsmith, I tilt the table 45 degrees (fence on the right with gravity as shown here). I use the extension table adapters to set up outfeed support, and I have a 12x48" board attached to the fence; these together produce the same right-angle support shown here, but longer. I've used the guard successfully but I think the separate riving knife makes this job less fiddly. With this setup I've been able to cut 8' cleats pretty reliably without an assistant. The 2 hard parts are 1) I only do this every year or so, so it's easy to forget all the setup details - I have notes now for reference; 2) there's not a reliable way to measure the fence distance to get to exactly the middle of the board, and due to gravity it's difficult to sneak the fence up on the cut. I end up taking an offcut that's the right width and sticking that in there and usually still the fence slips slightly as I lock it. On my Shopsmith it's not reliable to use the quill to do micro adjustments - unless I have it hard closed, it won't stay locked and drifts during cuts. I just have to stay patient and keep doing test cuts on scrap until I get the fence distance perfect. Also, use push sticks - there's too much going on with gravity wanting that left piece and the blade tilting towards it. And concentrate on keeping the right side against the fence; mostly then everything takes care of itself.
Scott, I am the guy that had the Chuck Wrench snap off. Nova /Teknatool was totally PRO. They had the Senior US Manager contact me immediately. They are sending me out a new wrench at no charge and wanted as many photos I could get to them ASAP. They also have requested the actual wrench if I still had it. They are picking up all recall shipping fees. This is exactly how a problem of this nature should be handled. Promptly & professionally. They genuinely cared. Thank You. Thom Schuck, Portland
I use a foot switch that can be used on different machines when needed. Also have an automatic vacuum switch that turns the dust collector on when the saw is turned on.
Great Video Scott! You might caution folks not to use a "remote control" switch with a fob, like you would for a dust collector. If you forget to turn off the machine itself and accidentally hit the "on" button for the remote...... wellll, you get the picture!
Scott, thanks for this. I’ve made some dumb cuts in the past. Fortunately, i’v only ruined stock and no body parts. But, I used them as lessons and by hook and by crook have learned most of the points you demonstrated. The worst incident I had occurred when I was ripping a bevel on some thick stock. I had set it so that just the tip of the teeth were protruding. What I didn’t account for was that the anti-kickback pawls would bottom out and pinch the board against the table and fence. Fortunately, I was holding it firm enough that I could shut the saw off without kickback. So now, I always pass the stick beneath the downhill pawls, with the saw turned off, before I position the fence. PS: this is a smart move even when the table is square to the blade.
@@MyGrowthRings it pinches on the (left) uphill side on 10/4 stock (~3 9/16” cut depth) with the teeth just protruding… on my 520. I can’t drop the table any deeper because the table insert bottoms out on the saw collet nut and splitter clamp bevel. I suppose I could use a slightly larger diameter blade… if one were available. Or… just buy a riving knife. I mis-remembered… The fence is not really a factor in the pinch. It’s on the downhill side… so, I don’t have to check clearance there. Please pardon my error… I was writing that from a Turkey hunting blind. Please advise me if I’m still looking at it incorrectly.
@@sassafrasvalley1939 I hate to admit this, because it’s not a recommended procedure, but I’ve had a few occasions where I raised the splitter and guard a bit on the lower guard clamp. Don’t tell anyoneI told you that!
I agree with Fred19Flintstone(great name by the way!). In a Sawdust session, Nick Engler showed his "anti-gravity" jig and the large outfeed table which offers support to both pieces after the cut. jim
Great information. I have the lift assist, and it causes a problem with longer stock hanging off the right side due to the fact that it will not clear the right leg. Do you have a way around this.
Thanks for another great how-to-use video. I noticed that the kick back device on the guard actually held the off cut in place while you took your time retrieving it. That has also been my experience even in not angled cuts. A great piece of engineering by SS. By the way, I finally obtained a working saw guard and I appreciate the additional safety. Regarding a secondary switch, I don't know how well that would work on my SS since I have my Power Pro headstock converted to 220v. I very rarely do bevel or compound miter cuts, but when I have done them, they have not given me trouble. Blessings, Glen
Yes, you don’t want to cut the power to the PowerPro. I was really hoping that SS was going to incorporate some sort of remote switch when they introduced V2.
One of the first things I did when I got my SS was to get a momentary-on foot switch for it. So to keep it running I have to keep my foot on it and it’s very easy to turn off. If that sounds like too much, you can get a toggle - stomp for on, stomp again for off. Either way keeps your hands free to deal with the work.
Great video. As you know, I did cut some 6" wide, 6' long French Cleats a few months ago. It was Important to have someone help with the outfeed but all I had was a roller support so that' what I used until my helper was available. One thing for me, at time 6:05, when you were feeding the board through, I would have used a push stick. Just a little too close to the blade for me to be comfortable.
I LOVE my Shopsmith, but I don't like doing cuts with the table tilted. Your advice in this video will help a lot. I especially like your support fence extension. Thank you Scott!
Another option is to have the power outlets in your workshop on a separate circuit protected by an RCBO (It's a combination of an RCD/GFCI and MCB, I am not sure what the US term is) and then mount on the wall a large red push button, that when pressed connects the neutral to earth (its what the test button does as I understand it). This then triggers the RCD/GFCI to shut down everything in the shop. Just make sure it doesn't cut the lights as well and you probably don't want it cutting the power in the rest of your house either if your shop is in the garage. The reason I went with this method is all the emergency stop buttons seem to be rated at 6A which is not enough for either the standard 32A ring circuit we have here in the UK or for that matter many power tools on their own, and I wanted a turn the whole dam lot off *now* solution. Basically, every stationary power tool has the on/off controls in a potentially awkward place in the event of an emergency so if you are concerned (and you should be) you need an alternative emergency stop button that doesn't involve approaching the device in question.
I had that exact thing in mind when we had our shop wired. Each outlet is on its own circuit, and the lights are on their own as well. I’ve worked in too many shops where I wound up in the dark sure to an overstuffed planer!
I like a big paddle switch with a magnetic contactor like the Powertec 1054, only rated for 9 amps so not a good one for the Shopsmith but you get the idea. If the power goes off, e.g. a tripped breaker, the paddle switch will need to be restarted so that the saw doesn't take off when power is restored. I'm going to mount one on the front of my bench for my belt sander etc. since that thing likes to trip the breaker on the power strip.
Great table saw safety tips. I have a right tilt blade (an old Ryobi BT3000) which has its challenges. I can see the benefit of a left tilt. I've thought about adding a secondary power switch.
I rely on the "knee bump OFF" style switch .. when the "bad things" begin to occur, I cannot release my hold to slap a switch. I just give it the knee bump.
Well now I think this is exactly what we needed. send it to John and friends. Oh wait, let’s not give his review any more attention. SS owners aren’t as dumb.
ShopSmith's answer to the hazards of the tilting saw table was the SawSmith 2000 table saw, that has the added benefit of being able to pull the blade through the cut like a radial arm saw. I was shown this saw in the Dayton factory as a prototype back in the 1980's and wanted one since. I ran into one several years ago in an online add and bought it before it was gone. I love the SawSmith 2000 and it is too bad that it was never popular and received bad reviews, which I don't understand. I have not used my Mark V as a table saw since getting the SawSmith 2000, though the 520 is a very nice table saw while used flat.
Nice demonstration. For sure the tilting table is the weakest aspect of the Shopsmith design. I am grateful that they put the weak link on the feature I use the least frequently. But I have played with a few table-tilted cuts and have settled on one that I feel most comfortable with and gives clean cuts. That is to rip square with the band or table saw close to the mark. Then tilt the table to make the bevel cuts on each work piece. In this case, a small triangle of wood is removed that is so light that the weight of the saw guard pins it down and gravity is less likely to pull it into the blade. On a 3/4 inch thick workpiece, this uses about 1.5 - 2 inches of waste wood assuming a bevel is needed on each half. I also really like moving the table all the way to the right and standing to the right facing the broad side of the blade. This lets me use a hand-over-hand technique with my GRR-RIPPERS. Depending on the blade height and whether or not I want to remove the blade guard (which depends on the width of the workpiece between the blade and fence) the GRR-RIPPER can straddle the blade and control the cutoff piece.
Scott, Given not everyone has the space to dedicate their SS. I have considered putting a light switch or an emergency kill switch in line with a dedicated outlet in order to kill the power quickly. Being well over 6 feet in a basement with 7'6" ceiling, it could easily be installed overhead.
Good reminders. It's always a bummer to say but some tools are simply not the best for some tasks. And while the shopsmith does a lot of things really well, a few things are a bit precarious. On the plus side, there are a LOT of other ways to do tasks like this. And once you start looking at say Japanese pull saws and using those thinner dove tail style saws, you can make quick work of stock and not have to worry about having a second power tool even.
Just watched your video on tilting the table saw deck. Well done! Here is my question. What is the easiest and most affordable way to increase the size of my saw table deck ? Yes I try to butt it up to the small extension but getting that fence to align with the blade is almost impossible! (IF)…..my measurements requiring the fence to straddle the main table and the extension….. Boy Howdy that does not work out well at all. Tell me what to do please. Mark 5/500.
Always use the extension table and fence on the right side of the main table and you should only ever have to align the table once. If you use it on the left-hand side, or if you move it back-and-forth from left to right, you will always be fighting it.
Important video for any Shopsmith user to see if they want to safely cut bevels. Even then I still see the lack of a tilting blade as the main negative mark against the machine. One solution with beveled crosscuts on smaller stock is using the disk sander instead of the table saw. Sure, it will produce copious amounts of sawdust but you could use other tools to get close to your final cut and then use the sander to finish it with great accuracy, as well as smooth and ready to use. As a blue sky discussion I wonder what would be required to tilt the headstock and blade in a Shopsmith. I don't think tilting the way tubes is a reasonable approach. Clearly a left tilt would be the only option for a headstock that could rotate. Could a heavy duty pivot mechanism between the way tubes allow a redesigned headstock to be tilted 45° to the left? The solution I put in place is a Sawsmith 2000 table saw. Too bad they didn't continue making this product.
There was actually an interesting patent for a tilting blade headstock on a Shopsmith-style multi tool. I’ll track it down and will share it. I’m picking up a SawSmith 2000 in about two weeks.
The remote switch is another interesting topic. It raises it's own safety concerns. A switch connected through the power cord does leave the main power switch on the headstock operable and two switches are better than one for turning off a headstock but can leave a safety issue when one switch can be left in the on position and forgetting the other one will turn the machine on by itself. I can see Shopsmith being wary of any such devices but still wonder what could be done with PowerPro and an entire control panel that can be located remotely.
Home depot has a remote switch that works great. You can get a single switch or they have a three switch pack. They work good for power tools, but will not be strong enough for the desk collector.
Question not related to this video, but I don't know where else to go. How does the new Shaper/Router fence AND the Dust Shield Arm and Post both fit on my Mark VII table when i'm using it in the under table router configuration? No photos on google and closest view was from the wrong side in a Doug Smith short video. Help Scott. You're my only hope!
There is a clamp on version of the upper guard that clamps onto the back side of the table and the dust collection port is on top of that guard. Let me see if I can locate another video for you.
Check this video: ua-cam.com/video/LzoTaNDxDxw/v-deo.htmlsi=m8r3AP3-KUFQKbgi and the post is actually mounted to the t slot miter gauge slot. Also, I’m assuming you are talking about the modern Mark 7, not the 1960’s Mark VII.
A challenge I've had with bevel cuts is the clear part of the saw guide being pulled by gravity down towards the blade. Seemed you adjusted for that a time or two. But I prefer not to take my hands off the work piece, especially on bevel cuts. Have you found any other way to address this? Thanks!
I'd like to know if you think purchasing a brand new Mark 7 directly from Shopsmith is worth it. How is the quality of their new tools? Thanks in advance!
I know of a couple people who have purchased their new in the last year, or so, who ultimately were very pleased with their purchase. Both of them had some issues at the beginning, so just like with anything, you’re gonna wanna go through it completely once you receive it, so that they can address any issues. I think they’re quality is as good if not better than it has ever been, but keep in mind there’s a lot of parts with a lot of machining that have to take place, and every now and then there’s an issue. They are good folks, and they understand when they sell you a tool that you’re becoming part of their family, so they really stand behind their product. Check out, Tom, from the woodshop nerdery channel, who did a full rundown of his experience buying his new Shopsmith. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks so much for everything, Scott! You are truly a fantastic guy. This isn't a hobby where everyone is welcoming with open arms (like with anything.) However, you inspire confidence through no-nonsense, incredibly detailed information. Thanks again for taking the time out of your day to answer! Chris.
I just don't like the fact that the upper saw guard sags to the right (and I saw it was a distraction for you too). I go with only a riving knife. It doesn't seem like taking too much of a chance to me and worth getting rid of a distraction that could cause me to lose focus on the rest of the operation.
Can anybody point me to content that would explain how to set up a 75 degree cross cut? I’ve got 3.5’ boards that I want to crosscut into 5” billets/shingles with a 15 degree angle. I’m making V shapes for taco holders that’d look like WW, but I can’t figure out how to set up a crosscut at a severe angle like that.
The only practical way to accomplish that is with a cross cut sled, which you will need to build. Traditional miter gauges will only get you a bit beyond 45°.
![Дон ДОН, Алаудинов и СБЕЖАВШИЕ из под Курска ахматовцы 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dEfCf5IK26Q/mqdefault.jpg)
I started lining my unfinished garage with french cleats 6" apart, screwed directly to the studs. So every so often I batch out some 8' french cleats. I generally get a sheet of 3/4" plywood (nowadays 11/16" or 17mm) and have the store use their table or panel saw to cut it in 6" strips (5 7/8" due to kerf).
On the Shopsmith, I tilt the table 45 degrees (fence on the right with gravity as shown here). I use the extension table adapters to set up outfeed support, and I have a 12x48" board attached to the fence; these together produce the same right-angle support shown here, but longer. I've used the guard successfully but I think the separate riving knife makes this job less fiddly.
With this setup I've been able to cut 8' cleats pretty reliably without an assistant. The 2 hard parts are 1) I only do this every year or so, so it's easy to forget all the setup details - I have notes now for reference; 2) there's not a reliable way to measure the fence distance to get to exactly the middle of the board, and due to gravity it's difficult to sneak the fence up on the cut. I end up taking an offcut that's the right width and sticking that in there and usually still the fence slips slightly as I lock it. On my Shopsmith it's not reliable to use the quill to do micro adjustments - unless I have it hard closed, it won't stay locked and drifts during cuts. I just have to stay patient and keep doing test cuts on scrap until I get the fence distance perfect.
Also, use push sticks - there's too much going on with gravity wanting that left piece and the blade tilting towards it. And concentrate on keeping the right side against the fence; mostly then everything takes care of itself.
I really appreciate this one. The biggest safety concern for me was always the on/off switch, this is a great way to solve it.
Scott, I am the guy that had the Chuck Wrench snap off. Nova /Teknatool was totally PRO. They had the Senior US Manager contact me immediately. They are sending me out a new wrench at no charge and wanted as many photos I could get to them ASAP. They also have requested the actual wrench if I still had it. They are picking up all recall shipping fees. This is exactly how a problem of this nature should be handled. Promptly & professionally. They genuinely cared. Thank You. Thom Schuck, Portland
That’s so good to hear. Thanks for the follow-up. Scott
Ahhh, the compound miter cut. A staple of every SS demonstration at the State Fair.
I use a foot switch that can be used on different machines when needed. Also have an automatic vacuum switch that turns the dust collector on when the saw is turned on.
Great Video Scott! You might caution folks not to use a "remote control" switch with a fob, like you would for a dust collector. If you forget to turn off the machine itself and accidentally hit the "on" button for the remote...... wellll, you get the picture!
Exactly right.
Scott, thanks for this. I’ve made some dumb cuts in the past. Fortunately, i’v only ruined stock and no body parts.
But, I used them as lessons and by hook and by crook have learned most of the points you demonstrated.
The worst incident I had occurred when I was ripping a bevel on some thick stock. I had set it so that just the tip of the teeth were protruding.
What I didn’t account for was that the anti-kickback pawls would bottom out and pinch the board against the table and fence. Fortunately, I was holding it firm enough that I could shut the saw off without kickback.
So now, I always pass the stick beneath the downhill pawls, with the saw turned off, before I position the fence.
PS: this is a smart move even when the table is square to the blade.
Man, that must have been a thick board. Was it a 510/20?
@@MyGrowthRings it pinches on the (left) uphill side on 10/4 stock (~3 9/16” cut depth) with the teeth just protruding… on my 520. I can’t drop the table any deeper because the table insert bottoms out on the saw collet nut and splitter clamp bevel. I suppose I could use a slightly larger diameter blade… if one were available. Or… just buy a riving knife.
I mis-remembered… The fence is not really a factor in the pinch. It’s on the downhill side… so, I don’t have to check clearance there. Please pardon my error… I was writing that from a Turkey hunting blind.
Please advise me if I’m still looking at it incorrectly.
@@sassafrasvalley1939 I hate to admit this, because it’s not a recommended procedure, but I’ve had a few occasions where I raised the splitter and guard a bit on the lower guard clamp. Don’t tell anyoneI told you that!
@@MyGrowthRings your secret is safe… I’ll hide it in my bag of tricks!
I don't make such a cut that often, but I have used Nick Engler's Anti-Gravity Jig to support the uphill piece with success.
I agree with Fred19Flintstone(great name by the way!). In a Sawdust session, Nick Engler showed his "anti-gravity" jig and the large outfeed table which offers support to both pieces after the cut. jim
What video of Nick’s is that jig in?
@@ifonlysolutions4011 Sawdust Session 19 #1 around 29 minute mark and most of #2. jim
Great information. I have the lift assist, and it causes a problem with longer stock hanging off the right side due to the fact that it will not clear the right leg. Do you have a way around this.
Thanks for another great how-to-use video. I noticed that the kick back device on the guard actually held the off cut in place while you took your time retrieving it. That has also been my experience even in not angled cuts. A great piece of engineering by SS. By the way, I finally obtained a working saw guard and I appreciate the additional safety. Regarding a secondary switch, I don't know how well that would work on my SS since I have my Power Pro headstock converted to 220v. I very rarely do bevel or compound miter cuts, but when I have done them, they have not given me trouble. Blessings, Glen
Yes, you don’t want to cut the power to the PowerPro. I was really hoping that SS was going to incorporate some sort of remote switch when they introduced V2.
One of the first things I did when I got my SS was to get a momentary-on foot switch for it. So to keep it running I have to keep my foot on it and it’s very easy to turn off. If that sounds like too much, you can get a toggle - stomp for on, stomp again for off. Either way keeps your hands free to deal with the work.
Great video. As you know, I did cut some 6" wide, 6' long French Cleats a few months ago. It was Important to have someone help with the outfeed but all I had was a roller support so that' what I used until my helper was available. One thing for me, at time 6:05, when you were feeding the board through, I would have used a push stick. Just a little too close to the blade for me to be comfortable.
I agree re: the push stick. Had the same thought as you did. I use different types of push sticks a lot. That's why they call me "ten finger Don".
I LOVE my Shopsmith, but I don't like doing cuts with the table tilted. Your advice in this video will help a lot. I especially like your support fence extension. Thank you Scott!
Another option is to have the power outlets in your workshop on a separate circuit protected by an RCBO (It's a combination of an RCD/GFCI and MCB, I am not sure what the US term is) and then mount on the wall a large red push button, that when pressed connects the neutral to earth (its what the test button does as I understand it). This then triggers the RCD/GFCI to shut down everything in the shop. Just make sure it doesn't cut the lights as well and you probably don't want it cutting the power in the rest of your house either if your shop is in the garage. The reason I went with this method is all the emergency stop buttons seem to be rated at 6A which is not enough for either the standard 32A ring circuit we have here in the UK or for that matter many power tools on their own, and I wanted a turn the whole dam lot off *now* solution. Basically, every stationary power tool has the on/off controls in a potentially awkward place in the event of an emergency so if you are concerned (and you should be) you need an alternative emergency stop button that doesn't involve approaching the device in question.
I had that exact thing in mind when we had our shop wired. Each outlet is on its own circuit, and the lights are on their own as well. I’ve worked in too many shops where I wound up in the dark sure to an overstuffed planer!
thanks Scott, great video on safety...
I like a big paddle switch with a magnetic contactor like the Powertec 1054, only rated for 9 amps so not a good one for the Shopsmith but you get the idea. If the power goes off, e.g. a tripped breaker, the paddle switch will need to be restarted so that the saw doesn't take off when power is restored. I'm going to mount one on the front of my bench for my belt sander etc. since that thing likes to trip the breaker on the power strip.
Thanks Scott. You answered some questions I had.
Glad to hear it.
Great table saw safety tips. I have a right tilt blade (an old Ryobi BT3000) which has its challenges. I can see the benefit of a left tilt. I've thought about adding a secondary power switch.
I used to really like my old BT3000. I was a little loud, and I did suffer my only table saw injury on it, but I really liked it.
Thank you!
I rely on the "knee bump OFF" style switch .. when the "bad things" begin to occur, I cannot release my hold to slap a switch. I just give it the knee bump.
Well now I think this is exactly what we needed. send it to John and friends. Oh wait, let’s not give his review any more attention. SS owners aren’t as dumb.
ShopSmith's answer to the hazards of the tilting saw table was the SawSmith 2000 table saw, that has the added benefit of being able to pull the blade through the cut like a radial arm saw. I was shown this saw in the Dayton factory as a prototype back in the 1980's and wanted one since. I ran into one several years ago in an online add and bought it before it was gone. I love the SawSmith 2000 and it is too bad that it was never popular and received bad reviews, which I don't understand. I have not used my Mark V as a table saw since getting the SawSmith 2000, though the 520 is a very nice table saw while used flat.
Oh, I understand the reviews. We’ll talk about it an upcoming video.
Thanks - Great advice and tips.
Nice demonstration. For sure the tilting table is the weakest aspect of the Shopsmith design. I am grateful that they put the weak link on the feature I use the least frequently.
But I have played with a few table-tilted cuts and have settled on one that I feel most comfortable with and gives clean cuts. That is to rip square with the band or table saw close to the mark. Then tilt the table to make the bevel cuts on each work piece. In this case, a small triangle of wood is removed that is so light that the weight of the saw guard pins it down and gravity is less likely to pull it into the blade. On a 3/4 inch thick workpiece, this uses about 1.5 - 2 inches of waste wood assuming a bevel is needed on each half.
I also really like moving the table all the way to the right and standing to the right facing the broad side of the blade. This lets me use a hand-over-hand technique with my GRR-RIPPERS. Depending on the blade height and whether or not I want to remove the blade guard (which depends on the width of the workpiece between the blade and fence) the GRR-RIPPER can straddle the blade and control the cutoff piece.
Scott, Given not everyone has the space to dedicate their SS. I have considered putting a light switch or an emergency kill switch in line with a dedicated outlet in order to kill the power quickly. Being well over 6 feet in a basement with 7'6" ceiling, it could easily be installed overhead.
Wish you could use the upper guard on the 500 for these cuts. Can't even use the splitter on cuts with the table tilted at all. Sigh....
Thanks. I had wondered how one cuts cleats safely on a tilting table. Not so scary now, but still one should be careful.
Good reminders. It's always a bummer to say but some tools are simply not the best for some tasks. And while the shopsmith does a lot of things really well, a few things are a bit precarious. On the plus side, there are a LOT of other ways to do tasks like this. And once you start looking at say Japanese pull saws and using those thinner dove tail style saws, you can make quick work of stock and not have to worry about having a second power tool even.
Great safety tips! Thanks!
Just watched your video on tilting the table saw deck. Well done! Here is my question. What is the easiest and most affordable way to increase the size of my saw table deck ? Yes I try to butt it up to the small extension but getting that fence to align with the blade is almost impossible! (IF)…..my measurements requiring the fence to straddle the main table and the extension….. Boy Howdy that does not work out well at all. Tell me what to do please. Mark 5/500.
Always use the extension table and fence on the right side of the main table and you should only ever have to align the table once. If you use it on the left-hand side, or if you move it back-and-forth from left to right, you will always be fighting it.
Watches should come off,too before use of the tool. Esp in machine shops.
Scott, can you go over cutting longer angled cuts? Like the 4’ or 8’ lengths we’d use on Freedom Cleats?
Sure. Do you own a track saw yet? :-)
@@MyGrowthRings No, can’t you humor me?
I am looking at your wen track saw. Maybe this construction season.
Important video for any Shopsmith user to see if they want to safely cut bevels. Even then I still see the lack of a tilting blade as the main negative mark against the machine.
One solution with beveled crosscuts on smaller stock is using the disk sander instead of the table saw. Sure, it will produce copious amounts of sawdust but you could use other tools to get close to your final cut and then use the sander to finish it with great accuracy, as well as smooth and ready to use.
As a blue sky discussion I wonder what would be required to tilt the headstock and blade in a Shopsmith. I don't think tilting the way tubes is a reasonable approach. Clearly a left tilt would be the only option for a headstock that could rotate. Could a heavy duty pivot mechanism between the way tubes allow a redesigned headstock to be tilted 45° to the left?
The solution I put in place is a Sawsmith 2000 table saw. Too bad they didn't continue making this product.
There was actually an interesting patent for a tilting blade headstock on a Shopsmith-style multi tool. I’ll track it down and will share it. I’m picking up a SawSmith 2000 in about two weeks.
The remote switch is another interesting topic. It raises it's own safety concerns. A switch connected through the power cord does leave the main power switch on the headstock operable and two switches are better than one for turning off a headstock but can leave a safety issue when one switch can be left in the on position and forgetting the other one will turn the machine on by itself.
I can see Shopsmith being wary of any such devices but still wonder what could be done with PowerPro and an entire control panel that can be located remotely.
As someone who still considers himself a "new" ShopSmith user, it's still an uncomfortable procedure. But seeing it more often helps. 😎
Nice video. Where's the push stick? :)
In hiding.
Home depot has a remote switch that works great. You can get a single switch or they have a three switch pack. They work good for power tools, but will not be strong enough for the desk collector.
Oh,... and the 3 pack is only $20.
Make sure that the remote switch is wired, not wireless. See my earlier comment....
Hey, you didn’t turn the speed down between cuts!?
I think it's a Powerpro headstock?
@@ianbrown4242 Nope, it’s not a PowerPro
I’ve actually done a video on this subject: ua-cam.com/video/U2I83mO-XCc/v-deo.htmlsi=hGcfExvFaaagCkIN
Damn, that was going to be my cheap shot.
Thanks for linking that Shop Short video! Great points.
@@MyGrowthRings
Question not related to this video, but I don't know where else to go. How does the new Shaper/Router fence AND the Dust Shield Arm and Post both fit on my Mark VII table when i'm using it in the under table router configuration? No photos on google and closest view was from the wrong side in a Doug Smith short video. Help Scott. You're my only hope!
There is a clamp on version of the upper guard that clamps onto the back side of the table and the dust collection port is on top of that guard. Let me see if I can locate another video for you.
Check this video: ua-cam.com/video/LzoTaNDxDxw/v-deo.htmlsi=m8r3AP3-KUFQKbgi and the post is actually mounted to the t slot miter gauge slot. Also, I’m assuming you are talking about the modern Mark 7, not the 1960’s Mark VII.
A challenge I've had with bevel cuts is the clear part of the saw guide being pulled by gravity down towards the blade. Seemed you adjusted for that a time or two. But I prefer not to take my hands off the work piece, especially on bevel cuts. Have you found any other way to address this? Thanks!
Yes, and we will talk about that in the Q&A follow-up.
@@MyGrowthRings What is a
W&A? 😃 I’m glad I’m not the only one who does this kind of thing.
@@theredtruckwoodshop2722 Sorry, that was a typo for “Q&A”.
I'd like to know if you think purchasing a brand new Mark 7 directly from Shopsmith is worth it. How is the quality of their new tools? Thanks in advance!
I know of a couple people who have purchased their new in the last year, or so, who ultimately were very pleased with their purchase. Both of them had some issues at the beginning, so just like with anything, you’re gonna wanna go through it completely once you receive it, so that they can address any issues. I think they’re quality is as good if not better than it has ever been, but keep in mind there’s a lot of parts with a lot of machining that have to take place, and every now and then there’s an issue. They are good folks, and they understand when they sell you a tool that you’re becoming part of their family, so they really stand behind their product. Check out, Tom, from the woodshop nerdery channel, who did a full rundown of his experience buying his new Shopsmith. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks so much for everything, Scott! You are truly a fantastic guy. This isn't a hobby where everyone is welcoming with open arms (like with anything.) However, you inspire confidence through no-nonsense, incredibly detailed information. Thanks again for taking the time out of your day to answer! Chris.
I just don't like the fact that the upper saw guard sags to the right (and I saw it was a distraction for you too). I go with only a riving knife. It doesn't seem like taking too much of a chance to me and worth getting rid of a distraction that could cause me to lose focus on the rest of the operation.
That is an advantage of the riving knife option. I do wish the upper saw guard were stiffer for that very reason.
Can anybody point me to content that would explain how to set up a 75 degree cross cut? I’ve got 3.5’ boards that I want to crosscut into 5” billets/shingles with a 15 degree angle. I’m making V shapes for taco holders that’d look like WW, but I can’t figure out how to set up a crosscut at a severe angle like that.
The only practical way to accomplish that is with a cross cut sled, which you will need to build. Traditional miter gauges will only get you a bit beyond 45°.
Oh yes gold chains and necklaces-really NASTY and FATAL accidents can result if the chain gets caught in a moving parts of a tool.
What if your stock is longer than the table is wide? How do you position your fence?
If you are crosscutting a miter, as I demoed here, there is a max, which is why most of us justify a miter saw.
@@MyGrowthRings thank you
AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!