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Easy-Peasy Alignment & Installing of your Modern Shopsmith Saw Guard
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- Опубліковано 16 тра 2022
- ✅ SHOP NOTES: Table saw guards do you no good if you don't use them, and thankfully the guards on the modern Shopsmith tools are easy to align, install and use! Hey, I found the old video I was looking for! Just in case it's better, here it is: • A Response to Stumpy N...
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Here are links to a few of the products I used or discussed in this video:
🟢 My favorite 9" long T-handle "Shopsmith Toolbox" 5/32" Hex Wrench: amzn.to/3sm3NcJ
🟢 The spray lube used at 5:50 is Boeshield T-9, for quick lube of tables, way tubes and sliding guard: amzn.to/2Hi4qlC Paste wax also works fine, if you have the time to let it dry and to buff it out. I also did a entire video devoted to all the lubricants I use on the Mark V: • STUMPED? Q&A's from "C...
🟢 This eBay search isn't foolproof, but it will get you close. Just make sure if you have a model 500 that you look for the two 2 1/4" side ports on the lower guard. I wouldn't own another: ebay.us/WAViXs
🟢 Your other option would be to upgrade to a 510 or 520. Those upgrades can be snagged for around $500 on eBay all the time: ebay.us/fARTig (Funny URL, eBay!)
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I know I can read the manual for my 500 converted to 520 with PowerPro and manuals for the SPTs, but does anybody else wish they could have Scott come over and "show" us how to align everything right the first time?
Thanks as always for the great content Scott!
Exactly! I’m learning so many things that i didn’t even know were on the SS or what they are used for! Like that little set screw on the guard. One problem I’m having is that i recently installed the new and improved heavy duty tool rest. It’s great, but is now in the way of a few things. Now I’m wondering if i didn’t install properly. I have the little dust shoot removed so the base of tool rest fits on.
@@markb8954 It would be worth investigating because the guard should be able to operate even with the base of the tool rest installed. Let me know what you learn. Scott
Use some 'plain ol' non-sudsy ammonia, to EASILY remove the pitch and clean that nasty saw blade. I'm a retired custom cabinet shop owner, (12 employees), and we kept all our sawblades, shaper cutters, and router bits spotless. The ammonia is really inexpensive, and fast to use, so it was almost effortless to keep everything clean. Sharpening intervals were extended too, because a clean blade produces less heat, which we all know can reduce carbide tip life. Give it a shot, I think you'll like it. Be sure to thoroughly dry off the blade after cleaning with the ammonia, as it is an oxidizer, and can promote accelerated rusting if left to 'air' dry. Once dry, no problem.
Great point, James. I didn't even notice how gunked-up the blade was until I was editing the video! Scott
That sneaks up on us all. It doesn’t need to be said, after that ammonia, paste wax is called for. 😊
I can’t get over how I keep going back to these vids and learn more every time! To be honest I wasn’t using my saw blade guard because I thought in was a total pain. I was being UNSAFE! It bothered me. I found that set screw and re-aligned my riving knife with the blade, it was way off. Not she’s like a glove that fits and I must acquit!! Thanks a lot Scott
That’s great news, Neil. I’m really happy to hear that.
Alas and alack! I thought the adjustment screw was to help center the upper guard. Never could get it right.(🤓)
Hah now, now! I know and shall move on accordingly. Thank you for that demo.👍👍
That is, to center the upper guard on the quill -
My pleasure, John.
Nice video! Looks like that saw blade could use a good cleaning.
Always.
For cases like Non-through cuts where a saw guard can't be used, I always at least use a riving knife. Shopsmith sells one on their website for $30.
So do I. I don't feel safe without it.
@@WoodworkerDan It certainly doesn’t hurt.
So, I liberated a shopsmith from a farmers garage and I'm realizing a dream from my youth. I saw a shopsmith demonstration at a mall when I was all of 16 (sometime around the mid 80's) and never forgot it. It checked a bunch of boxes for this young nerd fascinated by machines for the sake of machines, not necessarily tools for creativity.
I finally had a garage I could use for occasional projects but still needed to share it with it's primary purpose, cars, so naturally my thoughts turned once again to SS. I mostly talked myself out of it due to "analysis paralysis" and reading countless reviews on whether or not the reality of SS counters the sales pitch from the 80's still locked into my memories. I surrendered to the idea of finding a used one when someone essentially gave me a 510 for next to nothing. It has the bandsaw and the jointer (never used, still in the box). I get the impression that it was hardly ever used and it was neglected and unloved.
So, where do I start? I have to admit, I'm overwhelmed by all the books/manuals (those that survived) so naturally youtube comes to my rescue!
I guess I need to clean it up, tune it up, etc... Do you have a video for those of us guys that find themselves in possession of a pre-loved/neglected SS and how to restore it to maximum utility?
Welcome to the Shopsmith family! I am so happy to hear your story and see that you finally have been rewarded by your unrequited love! I have done a bunch of videos that would be helpful, but no one video that would help you start this new journey. there are a couple videos on UA-cam about set up and alignment machine, so I would suggest you seek those out, but it really is hard to beat the instructions that are in the official manual. If you have any specific questions by all means reach out. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thank you!
@@rfphill You are most welcome.
One more thought: Every so often I would run into a ss owner who said it was impossible to align the guard with the blade, and what I discovered is that some people have removed the silver ring on the quill and then re-installed it backwards. This throws everything out whack, and the guard cannot be installed correctly.
You are so right, Dan! I even did a video on that at some point because it is so common. Scott
Thank you for this comment. I have been trying to figure out why my riving knife was over 3/8" out of line for months. Just recently i contacted Shopsmith directly. The lady there couldn't help me. She suggested I email Customer Service but they never got back to me. I can't believe it was that simple and I really don't know how the spacer got turned around in the first place. Again THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
@@71rbc Happy to help. I'm glad you are again able to use the riving knife and blade cover.
I would tend to keep the riving knife closer to the left side of the blade. This would allow me to use standard kerf and thin kerf blades, without having to align the riving knife for each different kerf.
That is exactly what I was going to mention!
That’s such a good point, Chad. I’ll do the same and should’ve mentioned that in the video. Well, I guess that’s why we do the follow up Q&A show! Scott
In reference to a power station how about the use of-the maintenance of-and the adjustment necessary to enjoy it’s use. I just purchased one including an old magna belt sander and a lightly used like new green scroll saw for $450. What a buy! Picking it up tomorrow. John
That’s great, Pat! Yes, I will do a video or three on that very topic. Congratulations, Scott
Great video
A real eye opener
Glad you enjoyed it
Great video. Have you done one on use of the use of the under table shaper? I have a MK7 and use the under table shaping capability as a router table. Two plastic guards came with the SS. One guard is the router guard that is designed to attach to the quill when overhead routing. The guard is a clear cylinder with a cut away section covered with a brush. The cut away allows the guard to be lowered over the shaper fence while still covering the cutter. The second guard is a full cylinder also with a brush on one side that can be lowered below the cylinder. This guard comes with an arm that can be fastened to the table and allows the cylinder to be turned to cover the cutter. The arm has an opening on top for attachment of the dust collector hose. This guard is great for pin routing. I have not figured out, however, how to use this guard when using the shaper fence while in the under table shaping mode. Because the plastic cylinder is full length, It cannot fit over the fence and still be lowered to the top pf the work piece. Am I doing something wrong or is this the way it is designed to used?
Phil, that’s a great question. I don’t have a Mark 7 so I don’t do under table router or shaping, but I know that Doug Reid has done A couple videos with his, including this one: ua-cam.com/video/NZbW_GmItOk/v-deo.html if that video doesn’t answer the question, check his channel as I believe he’s done a few.
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks for the response. I have seen that video. Unfortunately, it does not include use of the under table shaper with the fence and guard. Some time ago I posted a comment to that site asking the question I posed to you but it hasn't been answered. I also asked the question of Mike Young during one of his recent video demonstrations but I guess I wasn't too clear. He did however refer me to your site, which, by the way I have been enjoying for some time. Thanks again, please keep up the good videos. I will keep researching the guard and fence issue and if I find a good solution, I'll pass it along. Phil
Absolutely perfect! I used my brand new SS 510 for probably 10 years before I found out how to adjust the riving knife! So mine was bent because I bent it. Then straightened it after being shown the right way to align it! Thanks Scott for helping new and old SS users see the how thing were designed to be used!
You are clearly not alone, Bob. The great news is it's one of those "No harm, no foul" things that can be easily restored, assuming you didn't bend it too much. Scott
I bent mine too. I didn’t like the way the riving knife caught my stock giving me an imperfection in the cut and causing me to have to take a hand off the feed to bump the saw guard not safe🥺. I’m anticipating adjusting that out once I get access to my shop again, about a month out. 😊
Scott, a welcome back to the basics video. Setting the machine up properly is the key to safety and enjoyment. I purchased one of my machines secondhand and could never get the riving knife to align properly with the blade even following the owners manual. After examining a similar guard I found the metal clamp on the lower guard where the knife/upper guard attach was bent (misuse or abuse from a previous owner) I replaced that metal clamp piece with an undamaged one and everything fell into place and aligned properly. I learned checking for worn or damaged parts should be considered if your machine isn’t aligning properly when following the procedure you demonstrated. Thanks!
Great point! I need to check my 1987 510 for wear. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings This was my first introduction to the 510/520 guard system. I didn’t realize the metal clamp part wasn’t supposed to be bent until I compared it to another guard. I learned If it doesn’t set up properly using proper procedures you just have to keep an open mind for the answer. Thanks again Scott.
Another great video Scott. You must know by now that some people believe if an item needs tweaking, nothing beats a sledge hammer.
On a few occasions, they’re actually right!
I inherited my first SS…old guard can’t see as you cut etc..bought a another SS with the newer guard. So now the older SS is used for lathe, bandsaw and sander while the newer is table saw and jointer. So now I will be aligning my Irving knife properly and taking out the bends I put in it. 😎
It's all part of the magic! Scott
This solves a multitude of problems for me, thank you Scott!
So happy to hear it, Larry!
Good info, ever time I watch you I learn
So glad to hear it!
Aw, now you've dunnit! I've got no excuse for not installing the saw guard…and obviously, what I was told about anemic dust collection on the table saw was based on error or ignorance.
Thanks, Scott, this is great info, and I neglected to open the manual when I wasn't able to easily figure out how to mount the components.
(My shop vac is going to hate you when I explain why I'm doing it!)
Too funny. Following these instructions won’t capture 100%, good news is you should capture the dangerous fine particles.
I am so sad for missing the features of the 510 by purchasing my SS in 1984.
So close…
Thanks for your video. I got my 510 with a bent guard too and have never used it because I figured I'd never get it right. I'm going to try it now after watching your video 🙂.
That’s the result I was looking for. Thanks for sharing, Scott
Scott, you’re spot on about the model 500 saw guard; the one that came with my used model 500 is almost worthless, so I seldom bother with it, unless I’ve got a lot of sawing to do. I know, kinda stupid........ but knowing there may be something available that’s better is good news. Thanks for the info.
Glad you found it useful. Scott
Missing fingers is more useless.
Very helpful information and tips. Thanks for another great video.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. When I got my used 520 SS the previous owner used it only in lathe setup. I went through the instructions for setting everything up and alignment but couldn't get the knife to align properly because the chrome coated ring was installed backwards. Flipped it around and took a few try's to get the knife aligned. Thanks for sharing.
That is such a great point! I mentioned that in one of my videos and I’m surprised how often that part gets flipped by people.
Master class, I use this same process and it matches exactly with the shopsmith documentation. You commented once about my sled to raise the guard slightly instead of removing it to disengage the anti kickback paws. I’ve used that since and works well. Otherwise it catches when you pull back the sled. It may be worth covering the anti kick back paws, especially cleaning and waxing to keep them working properly. Also, to be complete you have to cover the stand alone ricing knife.
Great points, Tom, and I'm glad I'm not too far off the ranch in my methods. Great point about the stand-alone riving knife. I suppose I need to get one! Scott
Stand-alone riving knife? 🤔
The stand alone riving knife I use quite often. I extend the saw cut, slide it in the groovy then the clamp, tighten and it’s good.
@@BadAppleWoodwerx you can look it up on the shopsmith web site but generally it like the riving knife on you’re blade guard but without the guard part.
Tom, can you provide a link to your 'sled' video? I would like to check it out.
Ok I'm going to try and finally get the upper guard right never have been able to get that right
You can do it!
Keep up the great work of informative vids. I always enjoy your work! John
Thank you John, I appreciate the encouragement. Scott
Great info. Wish I knew this when I got my very used 510.
Very timely and helpful for me as I plan to align and operate my new Mark 7 table saw today. I don't grasp why the lower blade guard works better for a shop vac closed and a dust collector open. I would think that if a dust hose is connected to the outlet it would be the same for both the shop vac or the dust collector. Point me in the right direction. Thanks
A vacuum works based on, well, vacuum. When you open the chute the effective vacuum drops. A dust collector doesn’t have much suction. It’s like a window fan placed in front of a window. Opening the chute is like opening the window fully.
Thank you for responding to my question. I will have to noodle on this issue as it keeps popping into my thoughts. I am not doubting your answer, just trying to make it work using relationships developed by an Italian gent named Bernoulli.
@@hleigh842 Ah yes, he did have a ring or two to say on the subject. This follows the Cosby principle, in that the proof is in the pudding.
Pudding beats anything Bernoulli could add. thanks@@MyGrowthRings
Great video. My SS 510 didn't come with the riving knife when I bought it so thanks for the reminder that I need to get one.
It's handy and wise to have. Scott
Scott, I never noticed the set screw. I use the silver stop ring to set my riving knife. Thanks for the information.
AH! I talked about that in another video. You really want to make sure that that ring is slid as far onto the 5/8" shaft as it can go. That way your blade will be centered in the slot and all of the parts of the quill will be aligned to their proper place. I talk about that ring around the 4:30 mark of this video: ua-cam.com/video/UJPvct3RddU/v-deo.html Scott
Some good info there. I completely forgot about my 510's lower guard setscrew but since I've never had a bent riving knife I probably adjusted it once when the machine was new and never had to again. Thanks for reminding me of its location. As for the dust port, you lost me on the dust collector vs shop vac thing. They both suck air so what's the difference exactly? I have neither one so instead have used an old room vacuum with a DIY hose adapter or a small electric leaf blower (in suck mode) to collect the sawdust. Neither works well and the latter is so loud it requires ear protection, but they're better than nothing given my space limits.
Glad you found it helpful. Yeah, that screw is often forgotten or overlooked. It doesn’t really matter if you don’t use your upper guard, but smart people do. :-)
Thank you Scott, for another informative video.
I use pretty much the same process and like to keep my arbour mounted saw blade in the guard when not in use.
Excellent. I'm glad to see I am in good company. Scott
I got my Mark 5 secondhand, and I had to file the lower guard casting flat where the upper guard locates to get the riving knife to align properly. It took a while, but now my cuts are much safer.
Man, I forgot about the work that goes into retrofitting. My sister has an old model 500 that might need to go through that process. If I do it, I’ll be sure to document it. Thank you for the reminder, Ben. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Please do address the old MK V 500s. I'd suggest using a Greenie for that project.
Now a video on using the 1980's Model 500 saw guard would be nice.
Hey Dan, I'll try to cover that, as soon as I locate the one I like. Scott
Excellent presentation on a very important safety feature.
I had two problems with my Saw Guard when I bought it.
1. The tines that go into the vise holder were closed so tight that I couldn’t get it in. After talking at a Board Meeting, I took it to work desk vise and spread them out and straightened them. Works fine.
2. The springs on the Dust Guard would bind up and I couldn’t lower the table. I cleaned it and waxed it but it still catches. There are no Knicks or burs on it. I have some of that spray you used and I’ll try that.
Let's talk about this in the next Board Meeting. I think I know a fix. Scott
Great video as always I didn't know about the adjustment was always trying to adjust the saw guard manually by sliding it out a tad on the arbor.
I think we all did that!
Riving knife vs. splitter is an argument I get into all the time in the comments on my videos. It seems that people don't understand the difference (and don't understand that not all saws have a riving knife). It is much nicer to have a riving knife, especially one that is the same height as the blade so you don't have to take it off for non-through cuts. I will have to take a look at my riving knife to see if my dad used it correctly, or bent it! lol
Go easy on him if he did. We are all learning. Scott
Xclnt, as always! I have some more masking tape to pull off the riving knife 😒
I still have a devil of a time feeding the riving knife into the clamp!
Make sure to flit the guard straight up and loosen the clamp well. Practice and the muscle memory will come to you.
Scott,
Great info, as always.
I have everything adjusted on the guards as you have indicated but still get dust out of the front of the guard. Using a dust collector so bottom guard opened agains plastic tie bar. The dust builds up on the table carriage and table height crank. Any thoughts on improving?
Same experience here on my 520… my old Mark V had plastic tabs that acted as deflectors at the front and rear of the blade. I tried adding a piece of inner tube screwed to the lower section of the guard. But, keeping them out of the blade ended up being more hassle that value.
Hey James. There will always be some dust that will escape, but most of the airborne dust will get captured. Is your dust collector a Shopsmith DC3300 by chance? If so, I may have a tip for you.
@@MyGrowthRings No, I have a Jet. But I am sure other viewers would appreciate the tip.
In the comments there are several mentions of a “chrome coated ring installed backwards” . You say that you mentioned that in a video. Can you link that video in the Q&A?
I sure can. BTW, here’s the link: Your Shopsmith has a Weak Link!!! (And what to do about it)
ua-cam.com/video/UJPvct3RddU/v-deo.html
ok, i get it now, the under table saw guard covers the part of the blade above the arbor and below the table. not that this is anywhere likely to be sticking your hand, but maybe some part or piece of wood could fall thru and engage. so, i located my saw guard and will mount it for the first time in 10 years. now, where did i put those screws?
catalogue part 517829. i also wonder if one advantage of the guard is to capture any wood parts that get pulled down thru the table, and escape the lower saw guard. that has happened a couple times when doing really thin trims.
I did not know about the adjustment to align the riving knife. I upgraded from used parts with no instructions.
Ah! Glad you know now. Scott
Scott… I have mine set up similarly… except my splitter favors the inside edge of the blade to accommodate thin kerfs.
A problem that I have is at the lower front edge of the guard. The deflector inside of the guard (with the VEE notch) catches when ripping thin stock. I can’t feel a protrusion below the radiused edges. But, I’ve been thinking about filing them off. Have you ever come across this?
Yes, I have encountered that. It's especially an issue if the table is tilted. Have you tried popping out that front section of the guard?
@@MyGrowthRings nope but I can. Thanx
The only thing I have against the the lower saw guard is the having to take off the dust collector hose whenever you change a setup, like taking the saw blade off and putting the sanding disk on. I see that there is an upgrade on the guard but I can not see if the has been (in my opinion) corrected so you can leave the hose on the guard? If not is there any plans out that has the hose on the other side of the table tube?
No, unfortunately the hose port continues to be out the side, so when you slide the table or the headstock apart the hose has to come off. I added a hook made from a coat hanger to my hose so that when I pull it off the the guard I can hang it from the rear table support post. It's not perfect, but it's a slight improvement. Scott
My SS is a 1986 model I purchased from another person. The saw guard it had was putrid at best. So I purchased the guard you show in this video. That turned out to be as bad if not worse. Plus the newest one requires two hoses for vacuuming. I am far from being happy about this. S S needs to readdress the guard for us with older models.
Bill, the guard you were talking about is not the one that I use, but is the better of the versions made for the model 500. Get a chance, you should explore a 510 or 520 upgrade. Postcards are a pleasure to use and do a great job with those collection. Scott
That’s great information. I never thought about how the position of the lower guard should be depending on shop vac versus dust collector. I stumbled onto the correct solution. My problem is that the dust collector still doesn’t get all the dust. There is usually some dust flying at me from the top of the blade and a small pile on the carriage. I’m guessing my dust collector doesn’t have enough suction (negative pressure) to produce the air flow needed. I’m using a Woodtech brand dust collector. How do I know what negative pressure rating is needed for the dust collector?
You are exactly right, I'm not aware of a 100% solution, but thankfully this approach captures much of the fine dust that we need to be concerned about. At least it sure seems that way. Scott
My SS dust collection fails me most when I’m using a wide dado stack and taking a deeper pass.
Last year, I purchased table upgrade from 500 to 510 from eBay. Included was a rubber spacer to go between the headstock and table carriage on the way tube. When I lower the table, the saw blade winds up just clearing the left edge of the table insert, rather than being in the middle. I’m wondering if the spacer should be a tad narrower to correct this? I’ve adjusted the riving knife as you show in order to avoid having to run the saw with the quill slightly extended (which I was doing before). I’m concerned with having a problem if I tilt the table with the blade so close to the left edge of the insert.
Hey Dennis. That shouldn't be necessary, but I'm not seeing what you are seeing. By any chance are you still using your old 500 saw arbors? (I don't think they'd even work, but I'm guessing here.) What else could cause that? Is the old space still on the way tube?
@@MyGrowthRings I did replace my saw arbors. It could be a wrong spacer was sent to me… I could check with Shopsmith to see if they are available as a replacement part. I also didn’t receive the upgrade parts for the lathe tool rest.
My 520 has this same issue. The saw blade is not centered in the insert slot. It’s about 1/8” off. I spent a couple of weeks investigating and trying various things but only improved it slightly. I’ve decided to just live with it but it sure did bug me because my previous 510 was dead center.
Good info for the 510/520. Any special tricks for the 500? Thanks for all the great information. 35-yr SS owner, Grew up with my Dad's 10ER.
On my 500, the lower guard is about the same except the throat is fixed. I modified my lower guard, fitting the shield that is supposed to be mounted to the table tie bar with two cap screws and attached it to the lower guard. The upper guard is mounted to the table tie bar so you must align the riving knife with the blade each setup.
Ed, only that the last version of the 500 guard that SS made isn't as awful as the previous ones, and actually does work OK with a dust collector. SS doesn't seem to offer it, but they do have an upgrade kit for the version that just proceeded it. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings thx
7:49 possible place for some special sized "Bittner Knobs" in lieu of the standard button-head cap screws...?
Possibly. It’s a pretty tight fit, but it’s worth a try.
@@MyGrowthRings On the models 505, 510, and 520 and new Mark 7 the table only swings to 45 degrees on that side. So I think it would work, and is worth a try.
@@chadnevels246 The tight fit is from front to back. Between the table posts.
You did not mention the cams on the upper blade. From the videos it looks like they spin easily. Mine are very stiff. I've tried wd40 but it only loosened them a little. How free should they be?
Yeah, those were discussed in the follow up video which can be found here ua-cam.com/video/S6yTxrSKUxM/v-deo.html They should be very loose. If yours are that tight it probably means that they were riveted too tightly. You may be able to pry one of the cams out slightly which should loosen things up. Scott
Any info on where i can get a tie bar shield for my model 500
eBay is just about the only game in town. You could post a wanted to buy message on the Shopsmith forum or in the Shopsmith sales group on Facebook.
Refuse to get the guards for the greenie, prefer to upgrade to 520. Also Scott, whats the lubricant? You forgot to tell us.
Great point. The 510 guards are vastly superior to the 500. I forgot to mention that you can even use the 12" sanding disc contained within it. Dang it, you are right! I just added the following to the Shop Notes: The spray lube used at 5:50 is Boeshield T-9, for quick lube of tables, way tubes and sliding guard: amzn.to/2Hi4qlC Paste wax also works fine, if you have the time to let it dry and to buff it out. Scott
Is there a video that explains what the riving knife is for.
I haven’t done one yet, but there might be one out there somewhere.
Picked up a 1982 500 that got converted to 520. Came with upper guard but no lower parts to attach to. Does the required lower guard fit or not fit on a converted 500? I take it the upgraded table comes with the required wider stance?
All the parts will absolutely fit when you make the conversion. In fact, when I worked at Shopsmith and somebody converted to 500 to a 510 or 520 we told them to stop thinking of it as a 500 that’s been converted and think of it as a 510 or 520, because that’s what it now is.
@@MyGrowthRings Indeed. Turned out the upper guard was for something entirely different but I picked up an upper and lower guard combo and all is well. Thanks!
Do you have to loosen the clamp each time you raise or lower the blade? Or table?
No. The whole thing is attached to the quill and moves in and out with the saw blade as the quill is adjusted. Its the saw table that goes up and down, not the blade.
Frankenberry is exactly right. The saw guard is stationary while the table moves up and down around it in the blade. It’s quite clever. Scott
Hey Scott what dust collector do you use. I recently purchased the HF 2hp dust collector which quite a few people recommended on SS owners Facebook group. Although it reduces the dust I'm still getting dust on the headstock and the old shin buster aka accessory shelf
I use a Shopsmith DC3300. I've never found one to be anywhere near 100% effective, as the dust just has too much force behind it as it comes off the blade. The most important thing is to open or close the lower guard, depending upon if you are using a shop vac or a dust collector. The HF DC should do a fine job.
@MyGrowthRings ok thank you sir
Where do you get bags for your SS dust collector?
I buy these from Amazon: amzn.to/39vEFMc They are a little taller than SS bags, so they can be trimmed to length or do as I do and roll them down at the top like a pair of socks. Scott
I suspect that most guard/riving knife insert tabs are messed up because they get tossed around, dropped, and stepped on by those who don't know any better . . .
I think you'd win that bet! Scott
I find the hardest part of the whole system is just getting the upper saw guard and riving knife in the clamp after you've covered it up with the table. So hard to see where you are aiming.
You can put the upper guard in place while looking under the table in the area where the metal "fingers" come down and align it properly. Its just a lean to the left and a push from the right. Then you can use the SS again 😉.
I agree, Tim, which is why I usually lower the table (expose the blade) almost fully. That way I can see the jaws of the clamp through the table slot while still leaving enough room under the table for my hand. I should share that! Scott
do you have any videos about replacing the motor switch inside the machine, if not any idea where I could find any info about working on the electric parts?
I don’t, but if you search “Jacob Anderson Shopsmith switch” I’m sure he has one. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I found Jacob, he has a world of info, thanks
@@seymourwrasse3321 Glad to hear it!